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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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Comments
By the way, thank you Steve for your help on surfing the group.
-Kent
Steve, Host
I noticed that it is a pretty common problem for Quest/Villager. Do you guys think it should be a quality problem of the maker? Should they pay for it?
If you know any information about it, please let me know.
Thanks.
-Kent
I got "Check Engine" light problem with my 94 Quest. I read several messages here about "Check Engine" and many pointed to EGRC-BPT. Can anyone help me locate EGRC-BPT for my 94 Quest?
Also, what might happen if I choose to ignore the "Check Engine" light? Everything else seems to be just fine. The van is running very smoothly, except that annoying "Check Engine" light.
In reference to the post # 1192: My '96 Villager has a check engine light on for about 3 months. Last week I took my van to my trust worthy local mechanic for regular maintenance and told him about this problem, he pulled out a rubber hose behind the manifold and replaced it in one minute (sure enough it was cracked wide open). Within 15 minutes of driving, the check engine light went out and never came back... So it's the problem... Thanks for info from this web site, it's wonderful... By the way he did not charge me for this...
As you say, this is a known problem and is related to improper tension on the timing belt.
More here: Villager Quest FAQs (Click on Subtopics and drill down to Broken Crankshafts).
Steve, Host
ebhnd Apr 10, 2001 4:54pm
Are you sure it's not coming from the rear?
Steve, Host
Hi desaljs-
Just curious what they did to reset your timing? Did they disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes, and reconnect, so the computer would reset itself...? If not, you may want to try doing that. That actually helped improve my (previous) van's idle problem.
Also, if you're using regular gas, switching to premium might help... especially if it's a knock sensor problem. Btw, if it is the knock sensor, I don't recommend replacing it, but instead just use premium gas. It's very costly to replace, and not worth the hassles (i.e. coolant leaks) that may follow, imho.
Lastly, just curious what kind of driving you normally do? I did a lot of stop/go city driving, which I think may have contributed to my idle problem. Taking it out on the highway every now and then to clean out the injectors might help. Anyway, just a few ideas.
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
I'll probably wait until my next oil change, before I deal with it again... if at all. The van's running fine otherwise, so at this point I'm not really worried about it. Just nit picking. ;-)
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
That's good to hear. If you just did this today, it may improve a little more over the next few days.
You said: "I will also try to use premium fuel for several weeks and see what that does."
If using premium eliminates the problem, then it very likely could be the knock sensor. But as I mentioned before, I wouldn't recommend replacing it, considering the costs and possible complications that could follow.
The knock sensor is very difficult to get to on the Quest. Out of warranty, you're looking at around $500, or more, to replace. Standard labor is 5.2 hours ($65 per hour) , add that to $165 for the part.
Also, since the sole purpose of the knock sensor is to adjust the engine timing so it won't knock/ping with low octane (regular) gas, it would be more cost efficient to use just premium gas, instead of replacing, imo.
I read somewhere that the "average savings" of using regular over premium is around $60-$70 per year. Depending on how much driving you do, it could take a lot of years using regular gas over premium... to recoup the loss on a $500 knock sensor replacement. My 2 cents. ;-)
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
Also, we have terrible vibration in vehicle, especially the middle seat. Anyone else had any luck fixing that? I saw some old posts on that trouble.
Alexa Garrett
Steve, Host
The question I have is that the Front Blower motor seems to keep blowing fuses. I checked the wiring and all seems to be fine (to control switch and blower motor) with no evidence of burnt wiring. I thought there might be a short inside the control switch and was wondering if anyone has any pointers for troubleshooting this.
Any help would be appreciated, as I try to do as much of the work I can myself.
Thanks,
Kevin
I have a 96 villager LS with 86K on it now.. It drives well but does have some of the problems mentioned by others..
At speeds above 65- 75, it starts shaking.. you can feel strong vibrations in steering.tried balancing tires, didn't work.. any thoughts?
The captain seats in the middle row make pretty loud rattling sound.. looked into the clamps and fixtures, can't figure out how to get rid of this..
now the biggest one is the sticky pedal.. always after idling the pedal gets stuck and after pressing hard i have to take those jerky starts.. the other day i hit my friend's car doing this.. tried oiling the cables etc, didn't work...
please let me know if others also are having similar problems and whats the solution you found.. Thanks
The sticky pedal sounds like the old throttle body needs cleaning. That's a common issue. Try an Advanced Search (linked on the left) for throttle body and you'll find a lot of messages with cleaning info. It's easy enough to do-it-yourself if you don't want to take it to a mechanic.
Some people also have the vibration problem (ditto on the search recommendation), but I don't recall seeing a solution.
Steve, Host
- My 2002 Se Quest had some vibration, when I first purchased it. I was told this was probably due to tires being out of round, and I should just drive out the flat spots....
However, being that I have little patience, I took it directly Goodyear tire shop the day after purchased; and after diagnosing that two of the tires had flats spots, they switched them out at no charge. All covered on the warranty. No vibrations since then.
- With my first Quest (94 GXE), I once experienced a very bad vibration problem(at speeds over 45 mph) immediately after having my brakes pads replaced. It turned out the rear brakes had been improperly adjusted.
I took it right back to the dealer and they adjusted the brakes. This resolved the problem immediately. I've heard it's a little tricky adjusting the rear brakes on the older model Quest. So you may want to take it to a certified Nissan tech if you think you need a rear brake adjustment.
- Lastly there's the issue of the middle row seat vibration. I've noticed the upper part of my captain chairs vibrate a little when going over bumps, although, have to say this personally has not been a problem for me.
Mercury actually has a tsb out on it for the Villager, and my dealer offered to use that solution, but I declined because it involves putting weights into the seats. I prefer to keep my van seats as light as possible. I'll post the details I have of the Mercury Villager TSB in my next message. Hope this is helpful.
Revka
^ TRIM - SECOND ROW SEAT VIBRATES/RATTLES
OR SHAKES OVER BUMPS
^ RATTLE - SECOND ROW SEAT
VIBRATES/RATTLES OR SHAKES OVER BUMPS
^ VIBRATION - SECOND ROW SEAT
VIBRATES/RATTLES OR SHAKES OVER BUMPS
MERCURY: 1999-2000 VILLAGER
ISSUE: The second row two-passenger bench or second row bucket seats on some vehicles may shake or vibrate noticeably while driving on rough roads or over bumps. This condition may be due to the inability of the vibration damper inside the seat back to adequately dampen seat shake
ACTION: On bucket seats, replace the production vibration damper in the seat back with a revised damper. On 2-passenger bench seats, replace the single production vibration damper with two (2) revised dampers included in the repair kit. The revised damper(s) will reduce the amount of seat vibration or shake on rough roads or over bumps.
SERVICE PROCEDURE SECOND ROW BUCKET SEATS
1. Fold seat back down flat, remove four (4) fasteners securing seat back tray and remove tray.
2. Unhook trim cover J-hooks and pull cover back to access vibration damper located near top of seat back frame.
3. Raise headrest, remove four (4) bolts that secure damper, push down on foam padding to provide clearance and remove damper.
NOTE TAKE CARE NOT TO DAMAGE THE LIGHTWEIGHT PLASTIC FILM INSIDE SEAT BACK. IT ISOLATES THE FOAM PADDING FROM THE METAL FRAME, PREVENTING SQUEAKS.
4. Install revised Damper YF5Z-12110A00-AA (2 required per vehicle) using the original attaching bolts. Tighten bolts to 7-12 Nm (62-106 lb-in) making sure damper is fully seated.
5. Reposition plastic film, trim cover and attach J-hooks.
6. Reinstall seat back tray and fasteners.
7. Repeat above steps on remaining second row bucket seat.
TWO-PASSENGER BENCH SEAT
Replace single production vibration damper with two (2) revised dampers included in Damper Kit XF5Z-12110A00-HA.
XF5Z-12110A00-HA Damper Kit includes:
^ One (1) Vibration Damper (RH)
^ One (1) Vibration Damper (LH)
^ Six (6) Attaching Bolts
^ One (1) Instruction Sheet
PARTS INFORMATION
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
002407A Replace Second Row Seat 0.5 Hr. Vibration Dampers
Part numbers
YF52- 12110A00-AA Damper (Bucket Seat) (2 required per vehicle)
XF5Z-12110A00-HA Kit - Damper (Bench Seat)
--------------------------------------------------
Also, to throw in my usual disclaimer. It's possible that this procedure may have been updated/changed since this was published.
So not a bad idea to check with your Mercury dealer service, to make sure this information still applies.... Okay? Good luck.
Revka
Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons
Steve, Host
The dealer that has my van, and has had it for 3 weeks now, is terrible. I'm not the first to say that, I've been hearing it alot lately. There is another dealer close to me and wanted to take it there, could I do that?
That said, the dealer who sold you the vehicle is more likely to provide a loaner car or other perks than is someone who did not make any money on the sale of the vehicle.
#1230: As others have said, it's likely the tires. Have you rotated them lately, and then the shaking or vibrating started? Regardless, you may need to purchase new tires. To help ease the pain, sell the old tires to a used tire dealer, if there is usable tread left.
The brake light and battery light issue i asked about on post #1225, no the lights came on and stayed on after there was a water leak of sorts into the passenger side floor. I'd say the wiring harness was full of water or the like and it's shorting or there's a ground problem, but they can't seem to find it. I just wondered if anyone had experienced that, so I could tell the "professionals" how to fix it! thanks for the help.
I will say one more thing that most current Villager owners might already know, but the service manager said that they rarely get a Villager in to be worked on. He said they are very reliable vehicles and rarely have any problems. He said with proper maintenance it should last you for a long time. The nicked wire was just a fluke thing that happened when the vehicle was built.
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
Can anyone tell me what RPM should be in Park? A little under 1000 seems high to me and it would be nice to hear from other owners what their RPM's are in Park.
Will post again after I have some time to drive it and further evaluate how it runs.
Steve, Host
I'm reluctant to hazard a guess for you since I'm not much of a motorhead. There are a lot of sensors that may affect the idle, not just an adjustment screw somewhere.
The well-supplied plentum stock may just mean they never break! I used to go through a "rubber bellows" (really plastic) every six months on a 74 Volvo I had. It would crack and leave me stranded, and I've hated Volvos ever since (I hold long grudges, LOL).
Cars are so much more dependable now I wouldn't worry about the plastic stuff around the engine compartment.
Steve, Host
I just got my 98 Villager GS for 2 months and problems starting to come up. The villager only have about 50k miles.
The first problem is the light on the dash where PRND12 doesn't work. The rest of the dash works (Speedometer, Tachometer, Gas, Temp, etc...).
The second problem that I have is the front blower is not working. the last time that work was a week ago and I haven't drive my minivan for a week, and now the blower doesn't work, I've try AC, Heat, Fan, nothing comes out, but the rear blower still works. I've check the fuse panel under the Hood Release and all the fuse are ok. Can anyone give me any suggestions as to what can cause these problems and the solution. Thanks in Advance. btw, I am in the NYC area and we just had a SNOW Storm about a week ago.
Thanks.
mokyde Aug 20, 2002 12:09pm
and here's one about dash lights:
steve_ Nov 11, 2002 8:41pm
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
Hot air is coming from the front blower at all 4 speeds (now that I replaced the front blower resistor).
Is the rear blower for cold air/AC only or is it supposed to have hot air also ?
Any ideas ?
ps
this forum is great, I found 2 problems with the van, sticking gas pedal and front fan only working on number 4 speed, typed both problems into this forum and found the solutions, did the fixes and now both problems are gone.
Keep up the good work everybody.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
1) At speed 70+ on highways, I get the vibration. Service person asked me to change the tires and I did it. The problem still exist. Took the vehicle three times to the dealer shop and still it is not fixed.
2) Getting very poor milage. In city it is like 12 to 13 and on high ways it is 15-16. When I compared the same with Nissan Quest owner, he mentioned that he is getting around 15-16 in town and 20+ on high ways. Dealer mentioned that there is no problem with the van.
What could be the problem?
How many miles on your van?
Steve, Host
Has anyone had similar issues or have an idea where I should begin to look?
As to mileage and vibration, we get about 15-16 MPG in town and 20-22 on the highway. Vibration is greater than in our 1993 Villager, but not unbearable. I do think that there are too many squeeks and rattles for a vehicle of this price.
We currently have about 55,000 miles on the odometer.
One other thing, it also turned out there was an actual short in the brake light switch... and it eventually had to be replaced. Everything (both cruise/brake lights) have been working fine, since the brake light switch was replaced. Have you checked your brake lights lately? ;-)
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards