Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

kentzzs · December 2002

Couple of days ago, I posted a message (#1208)reporting a rough idle problem. Today, I got it solved with less than $10. To share the experience with you all, it was an old distributor rotor head.

By the way, thank you Steve for your help on surfing the group.

-Kent

stever · December 2002

Thanks for the props and thanks for reporting back with the solution.

Steve, Host

jireh127 · December 2002

I purchased a 1996 Mercury Villager in February, 2000, from a used car dealer. The dealer told me that the van came with a limited warranty. The check engine light came on within the first week, and a screnching, and popping and clicking sound when I'm turning started about the same time, and the cruise control did not work, and the power steering was making a loud noise. The dealer would not fix any of these problems. He said that these parts were not under warranty. I then asked the dealer for a maintenance report and to see the title, he denied me to see any of these. I hit a dear returning home from work one night. When I took the van to be inspected by the insurance company, the agent noted that there had been previous front end damage that bolts and screws were missing from the radiator also. This did not result from hitting the deer said the agent, because it was rusting, and the insurance company would not repair that damage. Because I have bad credit, I purchased this villager from a buy here pay here dealer. I have paid more than $15,055.52 on the villager and owe more than $5000 more to pay it off. I am trying very hard to improve my credit rating. If I default on this loan, it will hurt my credit rating even more. I have had to have repairs done to the breaks twice, and the villager is in need of the same repair again. I keep the oil changed regularly, and do all maintenance that my being a woman knows how to do. Surely there must be some resolve for me to solve this problem. The popping, clicking, and screnching is getting worse. I'm barley getting by and can't afford to buy another car. I was hoping this one would be good for me, since the dealer told me that it was in the best condition. Are there any suggestions for resolve for me?

cookie22 · December 2002

to hear stories about the Villager like this one. Sounds to me like you got hold of a dishonest dealer, or at least one who doesn,t stand behind his product. The amount you paid and still owe sounds like you might have paid a preium for a 96 Villager Van. the popping and grinding noise you hear while turning could be the sway bar. You can get a report on your Van over the internet, however the dealer should furnish it to you. Good Luck

kentzzs · January 2003

My 95 Villager got a broken crankshaft near timing belt. This time, I cannot fix it by myself. It is no good to spend so much money to fix it at shop.
I noticed that it is a pretty common problem for Quest/Villager. Do you guys think it should be a quality problem of the maker? Should they pay for it?
If you know any information about it, please let me know.
Thanks.

-Kent

cduong · January 2003

1192 of 1214 EGRC-BPT Location by tcdenver Nov 20, 2002 (02:32 pm)
I got "Check Engine" light problem with my 94 Quest. I read several messages here about "Check Engine" and many pointed to EGRC-BPT. Can anyone help me locate EGRC-BPT for my 94 Quest?

Also, what might happen if I choose to ignore the "Check Engine" light? Everything else seems to be just fine. The van is running very smoothly, except that annoying "Check Engine" light.

In reference to the post # 1192: My '96 Villager has a check engine light on for about 3 months. Last week I took my van to my trust worthy local mechanic for regular maintenance and told him about this problem, he pulled out a rubber hose behind the manifold and replaced it in one minute (sure enough it was cracked wide open). Within 15 minutes of driving, the check engine light went out and never came back... So it's the problem... Thanks for info from this web site, it's wonderful... By the way he did not charge me for this...

stever · January 2003

Kentzzs, you may try visiting your local Nissan dealer with the details and maybe the service manager will offer to knock off some of the price. There is a tsb about this.

As you say, this is a known problem and is related to improper tension on the timing belt.

More here: Villager Quest FAQs (Click on Subtopics and drill down to Broken Crankshafts).

Steve, Host

pda97 · January 2003

My 99 GXE's right wheel was "clicking" for a while. Turned out to be a loose cotter pin. You may want to check it out.

wstar3l · January 2003

I recently purchased a Villager and am very happy with it.The only odd thing is that there is a pop or clunk sound coming from under the front floor area sometimes when I turn right at a slow speed.Does anyone know what this may be?

stever · January 2003

There are a few "clunk" posts in here (found with the Advanced Search tool):

ebhnd Apr 10, 2001 4:54pm

Are you sure it's not coming from the rear?

Steve, Host

revka · January 2003

This is a continuation of a discussion I've been having with desaljs, in our main Nissan quest discussion (posts #963, #977 and on...), regarding his 99 SE Quest idle problem. As some of you may recall, I also had a similar problem with my previous 99 Quest.

Hi desaljs-

Just curious what they did to reset your timing? Did they disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes, and reconnect, so the computer would reset itself...? If not, you may want to try doing that. That actually helped improve my (previous) van's idle problem.

Also, if you're using regular gas, switching to premium might help... especially if it's a knock sensor problem. Btw, if it is the knock sensor, I don't recommend replacing it, but instead just use premium gas. It's very costly to replace, and not worth the hassles (i.e. coolant leaks) that may follow, imho.

Lastly, just curious what kind of driving you normally do? I did a lot of stop/go city driving, which I think may have contributed to my idle problem. Taking it out on the highway every now and then to clean out the injectors might help. Anyway, just a few ideas.

Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

revka · January 2003

Was the clicking noise constant or intermittent? Also, where was this lose cotter pin located? I only hear this clicking sound occasionally.

I'll probably wait until my next oil change, before I deal with it again... if at all. The van's running fine otherwise, so at this point I'm not really worried about it. Just nit picking. ;-)

Revka

Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

pda97 · January 2003

The noise could be heard at low speed. At high speed, road noise just drowned it out. Try driving next to a wall or a quiet back alley somewhere. It was constant. The cotter pin is part of the wheel hub. Remove the plastic wheel cover and you'll see it. If you have aluminum rims, remove the wheel nuts cover plate.

desaljs · January 2003

I will continue the discussion here. I did disconnect the negative terminal as you advised. Left it off for about 10 minutes. Re-connected and did note a slight improvement in idle. But the roughness remains. I will also try to use premium fuel for several weeks and see what that does. Will hold off on the knock sensor replacement for now. It is an expensive gamble and my wife is happy to drive it as is for now. Other than at idle, it runs great, so no harm in waiting for now. If it starts to run poorly, I will schedule a service call. I did use this problem when filling out my survey on my "5 Star Dealer". Hopefully my constructive criticism will get me some warranty action at the dealer. I was not unhappy with the way I was treated, just not happy with the result of the repair.

revka · January 2003

You said: "I did disconnect the negative terminal as you advised. Left it off for about 10 minutes. Re-connected and did note a slight improvement in idle."

That's good to hear. If you just did this today, it may improve a little more over the next few days.

You said: "I will also try to use premium fuel for several weeks and see what that does."

If using premium eliminates the problem, then it very likely could be the knock sensor. But as I mentioned before, I wouldn't recommend replacing it, considering the costs and possible complications that could follow.

The knock sensor is very difficult to get to on the Quest. Out of warranty, you're looking at around $500, or more, to replace. Standard labor is 5.2 hours ($65 per hour) , add that to $165 for the part.

Also, since the sole purpose of the knock sensor is to adjust the engine timing so it won't knock/ping with low octane (regular) gas, it would be more cost efficient to use just premium gas, instead of replacing, imo.

I read somewhere that the "average savings" of using regular over premium is around $60-$70 per year. Depending on how much driving you do, it could take a lot of years using regular gas over premium... to recoup the loss on a $500 knock sensor replacement. My 2 cents. ;-)

Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

suninhair · January 2003

I have a 2002 Villager and the week before Christmas there was water running into the passenger side floor. Took it to the dealer, they said they couldn't get it to leak, but ordered a new window gasket for it. The next day, the brake and battery light started flickering then stayed on all the time. It's been 3 weeks since this all first started and they still haven't gotten the thing fixed. Anyone have any ideas of what's causing this? Other than the gallon of water that leaked in the van?????

Also, we have terrible vibration in vehicle, especially the middle seat. Anyone else had any luck fixing that? I saw some old posts on that trouble.

Alexa Garrett

keegee · January 2003

Hello to all. I am new here so I may be kind of long-winded my first go-round. Basically I am at my wits end with Ford. I purchased a 1998 Mercury Villager a little over a year ago,no problems up until two months ago. I was driving down the road on cruise and it was like something suddenly broke inside and it started skipping and check engine light blinking. So I took it in. To make the long story short I have had it in and out of the local dealer four times in two months,paying for spark plugs,wires,and testing. Nothing has fixed problem. So now they decide to take engine apart (which whatever problem found here would be covered under extended warranty) well they found sludge under the valve cover today and now they say that whatever problem they may find will not be covered under warranty because Ford will not approve it because of sludge(which is a sign of lack of maintenance). Now I have taken care of vehicle,having it serviced every 3000 miles,etc... so it has to be previous owner right? Well apparently Ford will still not cover it even if I show proof that I have taken care of vehicle. So whatever they find I will have to pay out a pretty penny. I called Ford and argues with them as to why I have even been paying a warranty if this was going to come up. It isn't fair that I pay for someone else's mistakes but they said those are the rules. This all sounds strange to me. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. I certainly hope no one out there has experienced what I have these two months!

suninhair · January 2003

Keegee, I'm no lawyer, but that's like a breech of contract. How could you have ever known what the previous owner had done with the vehicle. Is this not the reason we purchase an extended warranty? Again, I might be out of line, becuase I don't have a law degree but this needs to be brought to buyers attention. The reason I purchase an extended warranty is becuase in the first place vehicle manufacturers are saying that their product isn't worth crap by putting a 3/36,000 warranty on them anyways, my opinion. You purchase a vehicle, pay for what seems like a lifetime only to find out 2 years down the road that it won't get 50,000 miles on it. The second reason is because of the exact reason you just mentioned. I buy it for the transmission and engine. Maybe get with someone who knows something about warranty contracts. If they are selling extended warranties and then refusing to cover them, this sounds fraudulant.

stever · January 2003

You may get some free advice from your local state attorney general's office. They usually have consumer protection departments. Lots of lawyers give free or cheap initial consultations too (get a list from your local bar association).

Steve, Host

kwight · January 2003

I recently bought a 1998 Villager LS with 53,000 miles at an auction for $6500. The vehicle seems to run great with the common exhaust manifold problem which is to be fixed next week by my mechanic.

The question I have is that the Front Blower motor seems to keep blowing fuses. I checked the wiring and all seems to be fine (to control switch and blower motor) with no evidence of burnt wiring. I thought there might be a short inside the control switch and was wondering if anyone has any pointers for troubleshooting this.

Any help would be appreciated, as I try to do as much of the work I can myself.

Thanks,

Kevin

activex111 · January 2003

Hi guyz..
I have a 96 villager LS with 86K on it now.. It drives well but does have some of the problems mentioned by others..
At speeds above 65- 75, it starts shaking.. you can feel strong vibrations in steering.tried balancing tires, didn't work.. any thoughts?
The captain seats in the middle row make pretty loud rattling sound.. looked into the clamps and fixtures, can't figure out how to get rid of this..
now the biggest one is the sticky pedal.. always after idling the pedal gets stuck and after pressing hard i have to take those jerky starts.. the other day i hit my friend's car doing this.. tried oiling the cables etc, didn't work...
please let me know if others also are having similar problems and whats the solution you found.. Thanks

stever · January 2003

Maybe an alignment in addition to the balancing you've done?

The sticky pedal sounds like the old throttle body needs cleaning. That's a common issue. Try an Advanced Search (linked on the left) for throttle body and you'll find a lot of messages with cleaning info. It's easy enough to do-it-yourself if you don't want to take it to a mechanic.

Some people also have the vibration problem (ditto on the search recommendation), but I don't recall seeing a solution.

Steve, Host

revka · January 2003

With two different Quests, I've experienced vibration problems, and in both cases I was able to fix to my satisfaction. Sorry if I haven't shared this here before, but here are my experiences:

- My 2002 Se Quest had some vibration, when I first purchased it. I was told this was probably due to tires being out of round, and I should just drive out the flat spots....

However, being that I have little patience, I took it directly Goodyear tire shop the day after purchased; and after diagnosing that two of the tires had flats spots, they switched them out at no charge. All covered on the warranty. No vibrations since then.

- With my first Quest (94 GXE), I once experienced a very bad vibration problem(at speeds over 45 mph) immediately after having my brakes pads replaced. It turned out the rear brakes had been improperly adjusted.

I took it right back to the dealer and they adjusted the brakes. This resolved the problem immediately. I've heard it's a little tricky adjusting the rear brakes on the older model Quest. So you may want to take it to a certified Nissan tech if you think you need a rear brake adjustment.

- Lastly there's the issue of the middle row seat vibration. I've noticed the upper part of my captain chairs vibrate a little when going over bumps, although, have to say this personally has not been a problem for me.

Mercury actually has a tsb out on it for the Villager, and my dealer offered to use that solution, but I declined because it involves putting weights into the seats. I prefer to keep my van seats as light as possible. I'll post the details I have of the Mercury Villager TSB in my next message. Hope this is helpful.

Revka

revka · January 2003

00-24-7 001127 Second Row Seat - Vibrates/Rattles

^ TRIM - SECOND ROW SEAT VIBRATES/RATTLES
OR SHAKES OVER BUMPS
^ RATTLE - SECOND ROW SEAT
VIBRATES/RATTLES OR SHAKES OVER BUMPS
^ VIBRATION - SECOND ROW SEAT
VIBRATES/RATTLES OR SHAKES OVER BUMPS

MERCURY: 1999-2000 VILLAGER

ISSUE: The second row two-passenger bench or second row bucket seats on some vehicles may shake or vibrate noticeably while driving on rough roads or over bumps. This condition may be due to the inability of the vibration damper inside the seat back to adequately dampen seat shake

ACTION: On bucket seats, replace the production vibration damper in the seat back with a revised damper. On 2-passenger bench seats, replace the single production vibration damper with two (2) revised dampers included in the repair kit. The revised damper(s) will reduce the amount of seat vibration or shake on rough roads or over bumps.

SERVICE PROCEDURE SECOND ROW BUCKET SEATS

1. Fold seat back down flat, remove four (4) fasteners securing seat back tray and remove tray.
2. Unhook trim cover J-hooks and pull cover back to access vibration damper located near top of seat back frame.
3. Raise headrest, remove four (4) bolts that secure damper, push down on foam padding to provide clearance and remove damper.

NOTE TAKE CARE NOT TO DAMAGE THE LIGHTWEIGHT PLASTIC FILM INSIDE SEAT BACK. IT ISOLATES THE FOAM PADDING FROM THE METAL FRAME, PREVENTING SQUEAKS.

4. Install revised Damper YF5Z-12110A00-AA (2 required per vehicle) using the original attaching bolts. Tighten bolts to 7-12 Nm (62-106 lb-in) making sure damper is fully seated.

5. Reposition plastic film, trim cover and attach J-hooks.
6. Reinstall seat back tray and fasteners.
7. Repeat above steps on remaining second row bucket seat.

TWO-PASSENGER BENCH SEAT

Replace single production vibration damper with two (2) revised dampers included in Damper Kit XF5Z-12110A00-HA.
XF5Z-12110A00-HA Damper Kit includes:
^ One (1) Vibration Damper (RH)
^ One (1) Vibration Damper (LH)
^ Six (6) Attaching Bolts
^ One (1) Instruction Sheet

PARTS INFORMATION

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

002407A Replace Second Row Seat 0.5 Hr. Vibration Dampers

Part numbers

YF52- 12110A00-AA Damper (Bucket Seat) (2 required per vehicle)

XF5Z-12110A00-HA Kit - Damper (Bench Seat)

--------------------------------------------------

Also, to throw in my usual disclaimer. It's possible that this procedure may have been updated/changed since this was published.

So not a bad idea to check with your Mercury dealer service, to make sure this information still applies.... Okay? Good luck.

Revka
Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons

stever · January 2003

Thanks Revka!

Steve, Host

suninhair · January 2003

Can anyone tell me, do you have to take your vehicle to the dealer where you bought it for warranty work?

The dealer that has my van, and has had it for 3 weeks now, is terrible. I'm not the first to say that, I've been hearing it alot lately. There is another dealer close to me and wanted to take it there, could I do that?

kymike · January 2003

You are not required to take your vehicle to the dealer where you purchased it to have warranty work completed. Pick the one that takes care of you best.

That said, the dealer who sold you the vehicle is more likely to provide a loaner car or other perks than is someone who did not make any money on the sale of the vehicle.

fleetwoodsimca · January 2003

#1225: If your "brake" red light on the dash is on, or comes on when hard cornering or hard braking, immediately check the level of your brake fluid. Fill it up to the full line, or very slightly over the line. There seems to be a sensor in the reservoir that gets active when the level is about half way down between full and minimum.
#1230: As others have said, it's likely the tires. Have you rotated them lately, and then the shaking or vibrating started? Regardless, you may need to purchase new tires. To help ease the pain, sell the old tires to a used tire dealer, if there is usable tread left.

riswami · January 2003

what do you mean by the common exhaust manifold problem? I heard that earlier models, 93-95, had exhaust manifold bolt problems. Are you saying this was done to your 98?

suninhair · January 2003

Thanks for the info on the dealer fixing something. I didn't think I had to take it to the one I bought it from, if I ever get it back from them, then I'll probably try that the next time. And I understand about the perk thing...hehe.

The brake light and battery light issue i asked about on post #1225, no the lights came on and stayed on after there was a water leak of sorts into the passenger side floor. I'd say the wiring harness was full of water or the like and it's shorting or there's a ground problem, but they can't seem to find it. I just wondered if anyone had experienced that, so I could tell the "professionals" how to fix it!

thanks for the help.

pda97 · January 2003

Does anyone know why Mercury charges over $12 for an oil filter for a 99 Villager compared to $6 that Nissan charges for a 99 Quest ? This is what I found out when I called around. What's going on at Ford ?

flynn4 · January 2003

I usually keep the passenger side seat folded flat. This eliminates the noise. It isn't bad in the driver side 2nd row seat. I will have to check with our dealer on the fix, however. Thanks for the information.

suninhair · January 2003

I finally got my Villager back from the dealer. I had to get stern and make a few threats but they managed to get it back to me with a diagnosis the next day. They say that they found a wire in the driver's side in the bumper that had a nick in it that had corroded and caused the short. They replaced and said the lights immediately went out. I spoke with them concerning the vibration. If I pushed the issue, which I will before my 36,000 miles are up and the extended warranty kicks in and I have to pay the $50 deductible, they will do the necessary fix with the TSB posted above. Their answer to it was that because vehicles are made so much more lighter now than they were that the vibration has to go somewhere. When vehicles were made out of heavier material it absorbed more of the vibration. Who knows.... but that's the scoop on the vibration issue.

I will say one more thing that most current Villager owners might already know, but the service manager said that they rarely get a Villager in to be worked on. He said they are very reliable vehicles and rarely have any problems. He said with proper maintenance it should last you for a long time. The nicked wire was just a fluke thing that happened when the vehicle was built.

desaljs · January 2003

I took my 99 Quest SE to an independent mechanic to see if the rough idle/exhaust popping could be solved. They felt it was a vacume leak and listened carefully with an automotive stethoscope and felt it was near the intake plenum. There are 2 hoses behind it and felt that would be the problem. They discovered that the intake plenum itelf was warped and the gasket was leaking. The hoses in that location were OK. They have ordered a replacement part (it is made from plastic) from Nissan and expect to have it in several days. They will re-assemble and see if this solves the problem. Will keep you posted. I feel I am close to resolving this issue.

revka · January 2003

Thanks for the update. I hope this works... and look forward to hearing the details.

Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

desaljs · January 2003

The independent shop I took my '99 Quest SE to for the rough idle problem might have it fixed !! They replaced the plastic intake plenum that was warped and causing a vacuum leak. They also relaced a bunch of gaskets with this repair. As far as I can tell, the problem is solved. When in Drive and stopped, the idle is smooth and RPM's about 500 to 700 and even. In Park at idle, the RPM's are just under 1000 and not as smooth, but still seems OK. I need to spend more time driving it to be sure.

Can anyone tell me what RPM should be in Park? A little under 1000 seems high to me and it would be nice to hear from other owners what their RPM's are in Park.

Will post again after I have some time to drive it and further evaluate how it runs.

stever · January 2003

My '99 GXE is almost always right at 850 rpm at idle in park. I used to think that was high....

Steve, Host

desaljs · January 2003

Thanks for the reply. Do you know if idle can be adjusted on these vans. With all the computer control in today's vehicles, a simple adjustment like this can be difficult to perform. By the way, the shop that fixed my van told me that when he called the Nissan parts distributer and asked if they had the intake plenum in stock, they told him they had 35 on hand. What does that mean?? I was always a little concerned about plastic parts in the engine compartments of motor vehicles..........

stever · January 2003

I recall asking my service guy about my idle when my van was brand new, and was basically told not to worry about it.

I'm reluctant to hazard a guess for you since I'm not much of a motorhead. There are a lot of sensors that may affect the idle, not just an adjustment screw somewhere.

The well-supplied plentum stock may just mean they never break! I used to go through a "rubber bellows" (really plastic) every six months on a 74 Volvo I had. It would crack and leave me stranded, and I've hated Volvos ever since (I hold long grudges, LOL).

Cars are so much more dependable now I wouldn't worry about the plastic stuff around the engine compartment.

Steve, Host

villagerman · February 2003

Hi All,

I just got my 98 Villager GS for 2 months and problems starting to come up. The villager only have about 50k miles.

The first problem is the light on the dash where PRND12 doesn't work. The rest of the dash works (Speedometer, Tachometer, Gas, Temp, etc...).

The second problem that I have is the front blower is not working. the last time that work was a week ago and I haven't drive my minivan for a week, and now the blower doesn't work, I've try AC, Heat, Fan, nothing comes out, but the rear blower still works. I've check the fuse panel under the Hood Release and all the fuse are ok. Can anyone give me any suggestions as to what can cause these problems and the solution. Thanks in Advance. btw, I am in the NYC area and we just had a SNOW Storm about a week ago.

Thanks.

stever · February 2003

Check out the 5 or 6 posts starting here:

mokyde Aug 20, 2002 12:09pm

and here's one about dash lights:

steve_ Nov 11, 2002 8:41pm

Steve, Host

villagerman · February 2003

Thanks for the links Steve, I will see if I will check out the resistor tomorrow and hopefully they I can pickup it up from autozone. Do they have aftermarket ones or should I wait till weekday and get it from the dealership? As for the bulb on the dash, I hit my dash real hard once and it did light back up and then it went out again. Hopefully its just something loose. Once again, Thank You for your help.

stever · February 2003

Ah, that I don't know. Worth a shot at the parts store since it'll be cheaper there I'd guess. A couple of phone calls should do it. If you go tugging on wires underneath the dash, be careful you don't set off the airbag. Most of those wires should be bright yellow, from what I hear.

Steve, Host

fallenw · March 2003

I am not getting any hot air from the rear blower in my 1999 villager sport (just bought it last week), only cold air at all 4 speeds.
Hot air is coming from the front blower at all 4 speeds (now that I replaced the front blower resistor).
Is the rear blower for cold air/AC only or is it supposed to have hot air also ?
Any ideas ?

ps

this forum is great, I found 2 problems with the van, sticking gas pedal and front fan only working on number 4 speed, typed both problems into this forum and found the solutions, did the fixes and now both problems are gone.
Keep up the good work everybody.

stickguy · March 2003

the overhead ducts are only for AC. There are other ducts (somewhere down lower) for heat.

107main · March 2003

pda97 asked why Nissan oil filters are half of those a Merc dealer. I do not know, but I needed a very small part for my Villager and priced it at Merc around $17 bucks, got it a Nissan for $10. Same piece in box marked differently. Pays to shop around. On the other hand, I got my Villager for $4500 off sticker, could not match that at Nissan last year.

yespads · March 2003

I purhcased 2000 mercury villager sport van 4 months back. I had the below problems.

1) At speed 70+ on highways, I get the vibration. Service person asked me to change the tires and I did it. The problem still exist. Took the vehicle three times to the dealer shop and still it is not fixed.

2) Getting very poor milage. In city it is like 12 to 13 and on high ways it is 15-16. When I compared the same with Nissan Quest owner, he mentioned that he is getting around 15-16 in town and 20+ on high ways. Dealer mentioned that there is no problem with the van.

What could be the problem?

stever · March 2003

Where is the vibration? Some have problems with the middle row vibrating that's been hard to fix. Other guesses could include dragging brakes or a bent wheel.

How many miles on your van?

Steve, Host

kymike · March 2003

The cruise control on my 1999 Villager Estate quit working last fall. The light on the dash comes on when the cruise is activated and goes off when de-activated (either by the control switch or the brake pedal), but the control does not hold the current speed.

Has anyone had similar issues or have an idea where I should begin to look?

As to mileage and vibration, we get about 15-16 MPG in town and 20-22 on the highway. Vibration is greater than in our 1993 Villager, but not unbearable. I do think that there are too many squeeks and rattles for a vehicle of this price.

We currently have about 55,000 miles on the odometer.

revka · March 2003

Not sure if this is related, but I had a similar problem with my Quest cruise control not engaging. Turned out to be due to a burned out brake light. Once the brake light was replaced, the cruise control worked fine.

One other thing, it also turned out there was an actual short in the brake light switch... and it eventually had to be replaced. Everything (both cruise/brake lights) have been working fine, since the brake light switch was replaced. Have you checked your brake lights lately? ;-)

Revka
Host
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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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