Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

kc1 · October 2004

Hello all,
I just bought a 2001 villager. The dealer handed me a ford license plate bracket to put the front license plate. However, I'm not really sure how to install it. It came with four plastic push up type screw/fastners. I see two holes under the bumper (there are no holes on the front of the bumper). These holes are not threaded, so probably the plastic screws somehow need to go in there and hold the bracket.
However, I'm not really sure how it would work. Could somebody look under their bumper and let me know how the bracket was installed.

Thank you in advance for your help.

kymike · October 2004

Front plates are not required in Kentucky. I removed the bracket from my car (it was holding the dealers advertising plate). There are two holes in my front bumper that I just pushed the plastic screws back into. You may have to mark where these go and drill them to get the plate to stay in place.

pda97 · October 2004

This is just for the records. As a not so proud owner of a 99 Quest with 65K, I've suffered another annoying failure of the van. After acting flaky for 8 months, my driver side window switch finally died. It was bad when the weather was cool last spring. Bad meaning I had to pull it up hard and wiggled it around in order for the window to close. It got better in the summer when the weather was hot. And now that the weather has cooled down again, it finally died.

So after spending $78+tax for a new switch, she is now buzzing beautifully again. The parts salesman told me that this problem is very common with all Nissan models. And not unique to the Quest alone. When asked, he blamed it on the suppliers, and not on a bad design. He said window switches are the best selling items in his entire inventory, closely follow by hubcabs. Sheesh, why doesn't Nissan fix this stinker ?

Anyway, the replacement job was easy. Let me know if anyone needs help with this.

stever · October 2004

Well, it's easy enough to change out the part yourself if yours is out of warranty. Or did you already get it diagnosed and fixed? What year is yours?

Steve, Host

wtd44 · November 2004

We got our first snow of the season on Halloween after dark, and to acknowledge this, my 2000 Merc Villager (just under 24K) turned on the dash light that means the window washer fluid level is low. Of course, it is actually full. I recall some distant past time, a series of posts were made concerning this. Can someone of better memory than mine direct me back to the posts, and/or rebrief me on the matter and its solution? Can one extinguish the light and just do away with this feature? It is obviously more trouble than it is worth. I'll replace the switch if I have to, but as I recall, it was described as being hard to get to for exchange. Just a couple months ago, I changed out the $86.00 drivers window switch group. This car is almost new! I'm getting displeased...

kymike · November 2004

I'll repeat my solution to the low coolant light - Remove right front wheel. Remove inner fender liner (front of fender) to get to fluid reservoir. The low-coolant sensor is at the bottom of the reservoir. You can either replace it at this point, or just unplug the wire going into the sensor like I did. If you unplug the wire, put a piece of electrical tape over it to keep it safe from the elements in case you ever want to replace the sensor.

wtd44 · November 2004

Many, many thanks for getting right to the pragmatic solution. I do not recall your directions beyond the hard work of getting access to the culprit area. Unplugging the sensor then, I assume, turns out the light and effectively removes the vehicle from having a "reminder" circuit. That is exactly what I had in mind. Many thanks again. I'll likely wait for the 18°F temperature here to elevate a bit before proceeding.

wtd44 · November 2004

The weather warmed a bit so I proceeded with the job of turning out the dash light, ref: #1602. I discovered that I had removed screws and retainers a bit higher in the wheel well than I needed, as adequate access was available from below the front of the fender and a little of the vertical shielding above it. I removed the sensor altogether and taped the plug to protect it. I then slid the taped plug into the cavity that the sensor had previously occupied and used a plastic pull-tie to hold it there. I then replaced the fender skirting where it had been and anchored it in place. Many thanks again, kymike. Your instructions were invaluable.

kymike · November 2004

Glad that I could help. I have a shop technical manual which helped me to locate this to begin with. Let me know if I can be of any further help.

Removing the sensor did not leave a hole in the reservoir for washer fluid to leak from? I didn't remove the sensor as I have no desire to replace it. The reservoir is big enough that I should never run out of fluid if I check it once or twice a month.

wtd44 · November 2004

I'd say the idea of the "fallible" detection unit is a bad one. It is a liability, considering it is a common item of failure on these vans. I agree, checking the fluid is just one of several little chores I perform on all my vehicles.
By the way, the detection unit operates right through the plastic on the bottom of the tank, to determine the presence of "enough" fluid. The pocket the unit occupies makes a good storage spot for the plug to be stored, when you remove the detection unit from the car.

faruqim · November 2004

I have 70,000 miles on my 2001 SE. I realized that I have never replaced the fuel filter. How often should it be replaced? Do I have to go to a mechanic or can I do it myself?

stever · November 2004

I'm pretty sure I'm on my original one at 98,000 miles on my '99.

I don't see anything about replacing it in the Edmunds Maintenance Guide</A either.

Steve, Host

kymike · November 2004

I have the factory service manual. There are two filters - one in the tank and one inline. The manual says to replace the inline filter when it becomes clogged. How's that for preventative maintenance?

I would suggest replacing at 5 years / 60,000 miles to be safe.

toomanyfumes · November 2004

My 2001 Villager has 32000 miles on the original General Ameri tires. They seem pretty worn, especially on the edges. Are these just crappy tires, or does the weight of the van wear them? The vehicle sees mostly city driving, lighty loaded.

stever · November 2004

That's pretty typical for the OEM tires - the Generals on my '99 didn't do any better and it was a pleasure to put new shoes on the van.

Steve, Host

toomanyfumes · November 2004

I think i'll do the same. They seem to spin easily in the rain while accelerating from a stop- and I don't think it's because of the massive torque.

wtd44 · November 2004

I put Dominator "bargain" tires from Discount Tire on my 2000 Villager, and they cannot be fully balanced. I'd like to have some original equipment Generals back on this van! Hey, maybe one day I'll get tired of the shake at 75-80 mph and get something else...

carzzz · November 2004

have a 97 Mercury Villager

When does the timing belt need to be replace?

corsicachevy · November 2004

The quality control on the General Amri* tires must be really inconsistent. I had a pair of those on my 1996 Corsica. This may surprise some people, but I was able to squeeze close to 100,000 miles out of my Generals. I chose to replace the tires for a few reasons - 1.) its a little spooky to scoot down the road on tires with 100,000 miles, 2.) the tread was starting to cup which created a vibration and 3.) I ran over something that put a huge gash in the right rear tire. The tires still had an acceptable amount of tread and had near uniform wear. The replacements, some bargain basement shoes from Farm and Fleet, are not wearing as well.

My 2001 Quest SE came with Goodyear Eagle LS 225/60/16. These were not good in terms of durability. They ended up as power plant food after only 40,000 miles. I replaced them with a set of Firestone Supreme Si all weather tires and have not regretted it for one moment. They are superior in almost every way.

wtd44 · November 2004

When I get 40K out of a set of tires, I am satisfied. I just cannot imagine a set of common tires running 100K. That would be amazing...

stever · November 2004

The Edmunds Maintenance Guide should have the service interval for the timing belt. My guess is 60,000 miles for the '97.

Steve, Host

dhoff · November 2004

I'm getting the belts, water pump & coolant changed on our 99 tomorrow. It's overdue at +/- 120,000 miles. Oops. Still running though. And, the way it's running it may last until it needs another timing belt change. I hope it does, having no car payments is nice.

Dave

stever · November 2004

Way to go Dave - maybe I'll let mine slide a few thousand miles too. Just rolled over 98,000 miles here.

Steve, Host

wtd44 · November 2004

Is there an aftermarket source for the "plugs" that act as retainers/connectors for holding the plastic panels inside the wheel wells to the underlying metal surfaces? When removing three of these plugs to reach the "window-washer-fluid-is-low" seeing eye switch, I ruined them. As a matter of expediency, I used some similar plugs intended for upholstery retention in GM vehicles. I hope they hold up, but I may need something a bit more robust for the long haul.

toomanyfumes · November 2004

is idling rough and not starting as quick as it used to. Supposedly the plugs are good till 100k? Would changing them now 33k be worthwhile? Air filter is recently replaced, I"m going to try cleaning the FI throttle body also.

wtd44 · November 2004

Why not remove a couple plugs for inspection. Check the gap versus what the manual says they should be. If in doubt at all on the condition of the plugs, consider replacing them. A used up fuel filter is another thing to consider.

ccmbduong1 · November 2004

I think this is not a scheduled maintenance item, but is it worth while to replace rotor/distributor cap and spark plug wires after 10 yrs/ 100,000 miles? Thanks

razor · November 2004

"I changed out the $86.00 drivers window switch group. This car is almost new! I'm getting displeased... "

THE SAME PROBLEM WHICH COMPELLED ME TO VISIT THIS FORUM

This toy van should have come in a kit
form under the xmas tree. Five years of
intermittent problems with this Ford/Nissan
mistake - 1999 villager. I wouldn't trade my wife
a 1995 escort for this van, which STILL provides
trouble free transportation after 120,000 miles. This mess-on-wheels (van) only has 49,000 after
5 years.

1) wacky factory alarm started going off
the first week, in the middle of the night of course.

2)factory over spray (paint) on vehicle. forgot the name my body shop gave to this problem.

3) LOUSY OEM tires

4) Hard to remove rear seat. The escort hatchback has proven to be a better/faster method of moving large items.

5) Truck like ride will make rear seat
passengers nauseous. Have read something about
this problem before, which might have something to do with mounts on middle (and rear?) seat.

6)Red dash panel brake light came on despite full
resovoir. the dealer had to overfill to get light
off.

7) Minor, intermittent coolant leak.

8) Today's project: investigate problem with
driver side power window. Determined it IS the
tinker toy switch (confirmed in this forum) instead of the 6oz motor. The "motor" was only
slightly larger than a D size battery and reminded
of something you would extract from a radio shack
remote control SUV.

8b) Tire shop told me this Hasbro van now needs
cam bolts up front and shims in the rear to achieve alignment specs - $250.

9) Catalytic converter cover/shield fell off this summer, after clanking around for a few weeks. Looked like something fashioned from factory reject maxwell house coffee can.

The drive train has proven reliable so far, but that is expected with only 50,000.

These are NOT all of the glitches experienced with
this vehicle, which has been about as pathetic as
a 1997 buick century.

NO wonder toyota has so many former Ford and GM
vehicle owners parading through their showrooms.

eddieg1 · November 2004

recently i've had my left brake not releasing/dragging, you can hear it hear it squealing while engaged. dont know what could cause that. any ideas? thanks

stever · November 2004

Try the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion too.

Steve, Host

toomanyfumes · November 2004

for your help on this forum. The advice to lube the stabilizer bushings got rid of my front end squeak. I cleaned the throttle body and used fuel injection cleaner and now the van runs smooth. New sneakers and a cooling system flush and I'm ready for winter.

wtd44 · November 2004

These strings of relatively minor problems are irritating, for sure, but they are not exactly terrible. Back in '03 I really tried to buy a Toyota and came away dismayed from one dealership and outright angry from another. I suspect I'll never buy one, based on the "early warning system alarm" I have already experienced. So I can't look at Toyota as a good alternative to the Quest/Villager. I am definitely fickle about motor vehicles, and I trade them off and sell them far more frequently than a lot of folks. This is one way to "cure" dissatisfactions, but it can get expensive. Maybe your time to move on to a replacement for your 1999 Villager has arrived. Using my formula, I think you're there. I have a ways to go on my 2000. I'm not convinced yet!

toomanyfumes · November 2004

On the Toyota Sienna prices paid forum, I think i'll be keeping my Villager a long time. 35-42k for a minivan? I understand it's a much more modern vehicle, but it's still just a van.

dtownfb · November 2004

You can get most Siennals for under $30k. Take a look at the Sienna under New Cars tab.

vrm · November 2004

My 2000 GXE has 89,000 miles. I experience intermittent loss of Power Steering - the steering becomes very heavy for a couple of minutes. This happens only say once in 3 or 4 weeks. I also have very noisy/squeaky belts. Not sure which belt is making the noise. The noise is more pronounced on rainy/cloudy days.

The Nissan dealer says I should replace the PS pump along with Steering rack. Total cost: $1600.
I had a gas station mechanic shop inspect the van.
They recommend that I replace all my after-market belts -PS, A/C and water pump along with PS fluid flush. The dealer said that my PS belt is tight.

I am confused. Any feedback or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.

don8 · November 2004

My 98 nissan quest is stuck in park. and yes i know you have to step on the brake. Was working fine till this morning. Any help would be appreciated.

toomanyfumes · November 2004

Switching the key to the "off" position (one click after you insert the key.) You should the be able toshift to neutral without stepping on the brake. Then you can start the car and shift. At least then you can drive it. If this works It's probably the switch that releases the shifter when you step on the brake. If this doesn't work my guess is it's a transmission issue.

stever · November 2004

Some of y'all should post over in the Got a Quick, Technical Question discussion over in Maintenance and Repair too; there are some techs who hang out over there who give out non-stop repair advice.

Here's a link:

alcan "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" Nov 25, 2004 5:51am

Steve, Host

flpe50784 · November 2004

What would cause the front brakes to make rattling noises?

wtd44 · November 2004

Sometimes, replacement front pads will rattle.

sopman · December 2004

Has anyone changed the headlight bulb? I was able to disconnect the wires, but wasn't able to get the bulb out. Do I have to remove the hole light fixture?

Sopman

stever · December 2004

You should be able to replace the bulb without removing the headlamp body.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the bulb. Turn the bulb retaining ring counterclockwise until it is free from the headlamp reflector and then remove it. Don't shake or rotate the bulb when removing it (I don't know why you care with a burnt out bulb, but this is what my '99's factory manual says).

Install in reverse order, don't touch the glass, etc.

Hope this helps!

Steve, Host

sopman · December 2004

Thanks Steve for the headlight advise. I'll try it tomorrow morning after I start the space heater. Getting a little cold up here in NY. One other questions, you posted back in Sept about your tach sticking. How is it working now? Mine has been broke for about 1 1/2 years now. It would be nice to have, but I don't want to sink alot of money into fixing it.

Sopman

stever · December 2004

Still sticky - I'm surprised it moves around at all; you'd think if it's broken it's broken. Maybe there's a ground problem?

I really should look in my $120 manual and see if it sheds any light on it!

Steve, Host

fialamom · December 2004

hi, this is my first time here, and I am so glad I found this site. I recently bought my second quest, a 2000 SE. It was used with 42,000 on it. I have had to replace every single light bulb in the vehicle and a fuse for the inside lights. Now my front headlight is out again and I just replaced it 2 months ago. I can definately hear a sort of crackling noise when I put my high beams on or off( through the radio) This cant be normal. Also, my CD player, which they fixed before I picked up my van, plays only once in a while. I did bring my van in for the CD player earlier while under warranty and they couldnt find any problem with it (of course) My 1994 Quest with 185,000 miles on it had less problems for the 7 years I owned it than this one has had already. Has anyone else had these similar problems? My husband wants me to trade it in already and look elsewhere, and I've only had my van for 6 months.

stever · December 2004

Did you know the seller of the van or did you run a CarFax on it? It almost sounds like it was flood damaged or something with that many electrical problems. Or maybe it's just another grounding issue :-).

Steve, Host

wtd44 · December 2004

I'm the original owner of a 2000 Mercury Villager.

When I had the passenger side front wheel off to get access to the bottom of the windshield washer reservoir, I noted that the original pads in that caliper looked worn down to where I should pay attention. We have 24,400 miles on the vehicle. How long do you suppose the average mileage potential might be on Quest/Villager original front pads?

kymike · December 2004

We bought our 99 villager used with 28,000 miles. The pads needed replaced shortly thereafter. We now have 80,000 miles and are still on the second set of pads. If most miles are hiway, then the pads will last longer. It could also be that the original pads were soft and tend to wear out sooner than replacements.

I wouldn't worry about the mileage between changes as so much depends on driving style, terrain, etc. Just check them annually and replace as needed.

cmrdly · December 2004

I have a 98 nissan quest at 108,000 miles and the timing belt is overdue for replacement. Where exactly is it located in the vehicle so that we can look to see if we can do it ourselves? Why should the water pump be replaced at the same time as the belt and what is the purpose of the belt? Also the heater/ac in the rear is not working and sometimes it makes a bumping noise. What could be the cause of this?

fialamom · December 2004

Actually I did do the carfax on it and it came up clean. We bought it from the same dealership we bought our other one from with no problems. Could I just have a lemon? How much would it cost me to fix this electrical problem and is it worth it after having it for such a short amount of time? After reading all the problems this year has, Ii'm afraid something else will go wrong. I wonder why consumer reports gave this van such a great rating????

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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