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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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Comments
I have try using heat and a/c combo still, the frost is still on the all 6 sides windows, it really give me a hard time to check the bindspot!
The front and the rear windshield are fine because of the heater!
THanks
Carzzz
You may want to check out this archived discussion too:
Grounding Kit
Steve, Host
Anyone with a pre-'99 Quest that can help with the timing belt, heater and defrost questions (and any others we missed)?
Steve, Host
I have mentioned before here that I have a very slow loss of coolant that the dealer has not been able to trace. Seems to only occur in the winter when I run my heater so it must be related to the heater core.
Just though someone may have the same problem and or can recommend a coolant type. Prestone?
The bad thing was that when the dealer fixed this, he must have dislodged a vacuum hose for the cruise control. It took me about nine months to finally locate and reconnect that hose.
I had it replaced, and had the car for another 60,000 miles and never replaced another bulb. As it turns out, the voltage regulator was built into the alternator and obviously wasn't working right. This is something a mechanic should be able to check out in your case. Definetly worth checking before you get a new van.
Dave
Dave
I got 30K IIRC on the original front pads. I think the OEMs are kinda soft. I put on upgraded aftermarket pads (Raybestos(?) quiet stops I think), and at 54K they seem fine.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
There are two annoyances that I have not addressed: the steering wheel mounted volume control sometimes inadvertently changes the radio station and the plastic "chrome" coating on my interior door handle (driver's side) has started to peel.
I have about 125,000 miles on my 99 Quest. I had a coolant leak repaired and the rear hatch struts replaced under warranty. Had 1 ball joint replaced and accessory belts at around 60,000, two sets of tires, blower motor resistor twice, driver window switch once, new spark plugs around 100,000, belts, water pump, cam seals & coolant just done. Cleaned the throttle body a bunch of times. I also replaced one taillight and 4 stop lamp bulbs, and the front parking light bulbs. That's all I can remember, I'm sure there's been a couple of other things.
My tach is stuck, some instrument cluster lights are out, and the steering wheel volume "up" switch most times changes radio stations or advances tracks on CD's. Also, I have a small coolant leak that's been there for a long time somewhere under the intake manifold. Haven't bothered getting it looked at.
Not as reliable as I had hoped, but all in all not too bad. Fingers crossed, I want it to go another 80,000 or so before it gets replaced.
Dave
Any ideas. I've tried playing with my air cond. / heater panel controls.. fresh air etc. still smells. THANKS D.Soltero
It could be an oil leak dripping on the exhaust or a bad rear hatch gasket letting exhaust fumes in, but don't ignore it.
Steve, Host
To clarify, what I notice is that as you turn the wheel gradually back and forth, you feel that notchy or jerky feel as though power assist is swiching rapidly in and out, or changing effectiveness.
I would love to hear more about this.
Thanks for any discussion you may provide.
I wish I found this site before I bought.
Dave
Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy
Steve, Host
I went about two weeks without driving the van (wife's vehicle). When I returned to the Quest the notchiness was gone. Maybe she hit something. :-)
This should be checked out by a mechanic SOON. Low oil pressure will ruin your engine in just a short amount of time. If you are diving and hear a sudden knocking sound then the engine is gone and will need to be replaced.
Elfin
Gates - pdf file
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
And the VG engine has come in various flavors for the Pathy, Frontier and Xterra iirc, at least the 3.0 liter version. But I never have found a definitive source that spells it out (although Steve Cutchen's site sounds right to me).
Steve, Host
I have a friend who has a 97 and he says that Nissan has a special oil filter that prevents all of the oil going into the pan when you turn off the motor. It leaves some oil in the heads to help with that, but I haven't gone to Nissan yet to verify.
and
dhoff, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems" #592, 24 Jan 2001 4:54 pm
Steve, Host
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Jon
Fold the seat in half and have someone help you ease it out through the sliding doors (it's heavy).
To reinstall, place the seat in the middle position and install the front two bolts, torquing to 25 - 34 ft. lbs. Then slide the seat to the full rear position and install the rest of the bolts (same torque).
There is an adjustment bolt and a tension shaft on the passenger side of the seat that you may want to play with before yanking the seat out. You have to remove the plastic slide release handle to expose the hex shaft (really just another bolt <g>). The tension on this hex shaft should be 17 - 80 ft. lbs. when the 3rd seat can just begin to move. But it sounds like you may need to adjust the cable system. There's an adjustment bolt in a slotted holder in the same area (under more plastic) that can be slid back and forth to adjust the tension on the cable system. Tightening the cable reduces slide release effort.
At least that's what my manual says - I've never played with the slide release gizmo. My scanner isn't installed but if you get stuck maybe I can get a copy of the page to you. But the manual is pretty thin on the seats.
Steve, Host
Jon
Steve, Host
Now I like you guys to help me with the O/D light and it's functionality. I have read the owner's manual and understood that at steady 40 or 50 mph, if the O/D button is clicked on the shifter, the O/D kicks in (shifts in lower gear) and the light is on in the dash. It was working as designed. Now on some twisty road in Midwest, I clicked the O/D to have a little more power, but the light never came on. And the van never shifted to the lower gear. That concerns me a bit. Of course in a smooth TX highway it is not an issue.
Does anyone have the O/D button malfunction? I am thinking there is a spring inside the shifter which triggers the sensor. I may have a bad spring perhaps. I will wait for a response on this board. Then I have to take my van to the dealer. Thanks in advance.
Steve, Host
At 52k miles its been a pretty decent family vechile. I just wish it got better gas mileage. Last tank was 16.21mpg, yuck!!
Anyone done one of these lately and what was the cost?
Steve, Host
Actually, I replaced the front boot on my Golf GTI a few years ago, I got the type of boot where you wrap it around the joint and glue the seam together lengthwise. It was relatively easy, cheap, and as long as you have a steady hand it works okay.
Steve, Host