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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • paramedicparamedic Member Posts: 8
    I found the repair here. I am an ex Datsun Mechanic [the days of the 210 & 240z] but was getting annoyed by the problem. My wife loves our 1999 Quest with around 44000 miles but she hated the pedal sticking. The repair took 10 minutes at most and I had to replace one of the small spring fit clips with a worm type hose clamp. My problem started at around 35000 miles and 5 years old but with the ease I will clean it every time I change the air filter.
    To the kind gentleman who posted the repair you saved me a lot of aggrevation and maybe some money. :)
  • paramedicparamedic Member Posts: 8
    My 1999 Quest had the same thing happen so I loosened the inner fender liner [right side in front of the wheel, best to have the wheel turned to the left for access or remove the tire i did mine with tire on] and pulled it our of the way. You'll see the washer reservour and the ft and rr pumps. In the middel is the light sensor. Mine was driving me crazy as I keep the bottle full ALL THE TIME. I removed the plug and the light went out then I taled the contacts and finally took a baggie and covered it so no corrosion can get to the socket. Easy fix and get that annoying light out. Just keep the fluid level up all the time. :)
  • paramedicparamedic Member Posts: 8
    There are 2 types of engines Interference and non interference. In an interference engine the valves are so close to the piston that if thetiming chain/belt breaks the piston smacks the head of the valve usually totaling the engine. A Non interference has clearance between a down valve and the piston top. If the belt/chain let go and you heard a loud banging or knock , the engine is still spinning but the valvers are stuck in the position when the belt broke so if a valve is open it could hit the piston. With non interference engines the piston can keep spinning and not hit the piston so it would just stop running and no noise at all.
    Who told you that it was a belt? I usually recall the only cars with belts are the in line engines with overhead cam shafts, usually a cam in block has a chain which will knock long before snapping.
    AS for you wondering about damage if you have an interference engine you'll be looking at a set of valves, a set of new heads, a set of new pistons & rings and possibly a block if any pieces hit the cylinder wall. Good Luck and hope it is a non interference engine as the cost then will be the tow and replacement of the belt. Post when the job is doen.
  • janthonyjanthony Member Posts: 3
    Thanks to "ALL" that helped...
    I had the belt and water-pump replaced for $426.00, and have driven a few hundred miles. Seems to be running good. I was told that with 170,000 miles and it running now, I should try to trade or sell ASAP. I see some of you have over 200K miles, and I'm wondering why I can't get that many? I have brand-new brakes, timing-belt and water pump, as well as brand new tires. I'm hoping to get 7500 to 10K more miles. Any reason as to get rid of it???
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    to trade or sell probably figure that at 170K anything can go wrong. However, what is the van worth as a trade in or private party sale? Probably not much. It sounds like the engine is in good shape, If the tranny seems OK you should be good for awhile. The only dilemma is if it needs a major repair- Is it worth putting the money into it? You also may have some "nickel & dime" type repairs- still cheaper than the payments and insurance on a new one.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    I broke a piece on my front headlight assembly (99 Villager Estate). Now the retaining ring that holds the bulb in the assembly cannot be tightened. Does anyone have a good source of used Villager parts that they would be willing to share? The new cost of this part is too high in my opinion and I need to source a good used part.

    Thanks,

    Mike
  • wgswgs Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 Quest 3.0 V6. According to the manual the timing belt should be changed by 105,000 miles. Then I looked in the Gates manual and it says that this is an interference engine and the belt should be changed at 60,000. I currently have just over 100,000 miles. Who is right?

    Thanks, Bill
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Your manual is correct, the timing belt (for that model year) should be changed at 105,000 miles. On some earlier models (not sure exactly which years) it was 60,000.

    Dave
  • okim40okim40 Member Posts: 1
    My tail lights went out. I checked the fuses first then replaced the bulbs, but they still don't work. Is there a relay switch somewhere?
  • stigmatastigmata Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1995 villager and both blowers were out. found the dead relay for the rear, but having tons of trouble with the front. The motor itself is good. The resistor is good. All of my fuses are good. I am assuming there is a front blower relay, but I can't find it. If someone could throw me a bone, I would appreciate it.
  • farnorth2farnorth2 Member Posts: 2
    Wondering if anyone has experienced a similar problem to this one....

    First my check engine light came on. Ignored it because the van was running fine and this has happened a couple times before where the light stayed on for a day or two and then went out....I always figured it was some water in the gas or a sensor that was intermittantly acting up.

    Anyway, the light was on for about a week when suddenly I developed another problem, the car would not shift properly. It seemed stuck in first or second with the RPMs going up and then suddenly at around 3200rpm the trans would "catch" and lurch into gear. It would then drive fine as long as I did not slow down and drop into a lower gear or stop...in which case it start all over again with not upshifting. Also I noticed that when I start the car the O/D OFF light will flash at me. A check of the transmission fluid showed that it was somewhat dark and looked higher than it should be on the stick.

    I had no idea if the engine light and the shifting problem were related....I guess I am still not sure.

    Next I pulled the transmission pan and drained the tran fluid...dirty looking but not really burnt smelling. The filter was clean looking (it is just over a year since I changed it). I cleaned the filter....found a few miniscule metal fragments in it and a small piece of plastic? Nothing much on the magnets. I put it all back together with new fluid but no change.

    I finally found a way to read the codes using a jumper wire and came up with the following fault codes:

    0302 EGR insufficient flow, 0304 Knock sensor fault, 1103 A/T first gear signal fault, 1206 Throttle position sensor to A/T signal fault.

    So my next plan of action is to test and/or replace the TPS to see if that helps.

    I am hoping this means my problem is electrical/signal in nature and not a mechanical problem with my trans.....because I was a phonecall away from having a different transmission put in my van.

    Any suggestions appreciated.
  • bkmotoringbkmotoring Member Posts: 1
    Hello i am having the same problem that you have posted previously with a customer vehicle. I was wondering did you ever find a solution? Please let me know. Thank you
  • farnorth2farnorth2 Member Posts: 2
    Follow up to my transmission shifting problems.

    Installing a new TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) solved the problem.

    What seemed like a slipping transmission was just the TPS not sending the signals that tell the transmission when to shift gears.

    Everything seems to be working great and we erased the codes by taking of the battery ground for a few minutes.

    Have gone out for three drives with it and no Check Engine light has returned....so far...not even the EGR code.

    YAY !

    I am so glad I found info on the web that told us that many Mercury Villager and Nissan Quest owners have needlessly replaced transmissions when it was only the TPS. So if you ever have transmission problems...don't replace the transmission before you make sure your Throttle Position Sensor is the culprit first.

    :):):):):)
  • nlc63nlc63 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1996 Vilager.
    Amazing, I had the exact same problems and codes. Actually, I had a 3rd. and fourth gear a/t code instead of 1st gear.
    What I found was:
    1. broken hose ( about 2 inches long) at the EGR-BPT valve.
    2. TPS tested faulty, but acually was working properly; it only had to be rotated slightly. The TPS sends a signal indicating the engine being at idle. Apparently this signal is very important to the trans. control module, because that is what was causing my transmission problems!!!!!!!!! I don't remember the specifics, but I used the Haynes repair manual - it tells you to adjust the TPS so that at idle you have a certain voltage (I think 5v). Do yourself a favor and probe the wiring harness to check to voltage with the connector connected.
    I still have the knock sensor code. testing says that the sensor is bad, but I don't believe it (maybe because of the price and the dificulty of changing it - need to remove the upper and lower intake manifold!)
    Hope this helps. I'm curious to know how you make out with your knock sensor.
  • nlc63nlc63 Member Posts: 6
    I guess I should have checked the new messages before sending the previous message. Anyway, my check engine light also cleared after adjusting the TPS; however, it came back about a month later: KNOCK SENSOR again.
  • gzvillgzvill Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 villager. The Check Engine lights was on recently. It comes out OBDII DTC P0135 (O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1) and the following OBD Monitor Readiness Status:
    Catalyst: Not Ready
    Oxygen Sensor: Not Ready
    Oxygen Sensor Heater: Not Ready
    EGR System: Not Ready

    I was focus on the P0135 issue first, replaced the upstream Oxygen Sensor and then erased the DTC. After the 20 minutes driving, I parked it on my driveway and turned off ignition. Waited for about 5 minutes and turned on the ignition again. The Check Engine light was returned. Problem was not fixed. It's not the Oxygen Sensor Heater problem. It's the circuit problem, but I don't know where the problem is. I will be very much appreciate if anybody can share their experience on this board.
  • trackermctrackermc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Quest, 98k miles. Just in the last month, I noticed a thumping sound when in gear, no noise when parked and engine reving. No loss of power, I replaced all spark plugs, doesn't look like misfires. Again, engine sounds fine when reving in park. But as soon as I put it in gear and not even going fast, the thumping sound is heard, it also increases with gas.
    Any ideas where I should look? I'm guessing tranny problems - trans oil is fine.
    Maybe fuel filter?
    TIA
  • jim60jim60 Member Posts: 1
    The front windsheild washer squiters are clogged. I've eliminated other causes and now I realize the clog is in the line UNDER THE PLASTIC COVER UNDER THE WIPER ARMS. How do I get the cover off to see the final section of hocing and the bottom of the squirters?
  • firstgoddessfirstgoddess Member Posts: 1
    We just bought this GXE w/170k miles less than a week ago - the owner said he'd just spent $425+/- fixing the timing belt - he had just recently repo'd it - the buyers had abandoned it - we checked it out - the oil, etc - drove it - everything appeared fine - no check engine lights, no smoking - then Fri night 5/27 - it just stopped at a stop sign & it sounded like it would start - my husband thought it sounded like the engine was flooding but we ended up pushing it into a parking lot & towing it - at first we thought it was the fuel pump - but it's working - then we changed the distributor cap - the mechanic working on it showed us how the fuel injectors are receiving power even when the key is off - he said this means there is a short in the system & all the lines (according to schematics) lead to the computer - the mechanic saw that a line had been disconnected - he reconnected it - but the car didn't start - the distributor cap is getting spark - the ignition is working - any advice? Oh - at first he couldn't find the computer - he has since found it - he brought one from the salvage yard where he works - but it's not the same - anyone familiar with this problem? any advice would be most appreciated! Thanx
  • questorquestor Member Posts: 1
    Don't have any input on you're EGR problem but have a question about a 2002 post of cold start ticking? Did you ever figure it out and/or fix it? I'm having the same problem...occasional loud ticking on a cold start. Temps are in the 70's and I'm using 5W30 so I'm wondering if I have serious issues. Mail me at jeffreyjbragg@comcast.net
    Jeff Bragg
  • jsills78jsills78 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Mercury Villager Sport. The blower comes on every ten seconds or so when it is idling. I have taken it to the local dealership and they hooked it up to some machine and say they find nothing. Is this normal for a car to do. I've never seen one do this before.
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    Hi all,
    I am a satisfied owner of a '93 Villager with 170K and I have been planning to trade it in for a newer one, mostly for the double doors. Since I have a bunch of kids and need the 2nd row bench seat, I'm limiting my search to non-captain's chair '99-'00 Quest SE's or '01-'02 GXE's (and the Villager equivalents). Can anyone tell me if there are any advantages of the '01-'02 over the '99-'00 models or vice-versa?
  • lyinhartlyinhart Member Posts: 2
    I have a '94 Quest with similar problem. Thumping was driving me nuts.... Also thought it was tranny....... Until I turned off the Air conditioner. Discovered that whenever I had the heater or Air on there's a thumping.........Haven't fixed it yet....But at least it not MY tranny, Hope it's not yours either.
  • lyinhartlyinhart Member Posts: 2
    When you say "blower", do you mean the blower in the passenger compartment which is used for blowing in the hot or cool air from the heater or air, or do you mean the "FAN" at the radiator (under the hood) which happens to be electric and DOES come on at certain temperatures which means it WILL come on and off very often (which is NORMAL).
  • scotth1scotth1 Member Posts: 1
    Steve,

    What is the process / parts needed to change out the driver's side power window switch on a 99 Villager? Mine just went today (I am guessing that is what it is since the window will not move up and it is in the down position). I cannot hear the motor attempting to run so I think it must be the switch.

    Please advise - thanks.
  • marku1marku1 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 95 Villager. The front seat belts both locked in the B pillar position(back) at the same time. The manual only lists what to do if the belt sticks in the forward position. The motorized belts have never had a problem. I thought it might be a fuse but the panel does not identify one for the motorized shoulder belts?! Any help would be appreciated. Surely this is not the first time this has happened with this belt system. Thanks, Mark
  • cookie2cookie2 Member Posts: 7
    The EGR problem is simply the system needs cleaned and there is a hose you need to check too.
  • cookie2cookie2 Member Posts: 7
    Its easy it just pops out by prying gently and unplug the connector. A small screw driver or something to pry is all you need a kitchen knife will probably work. You don't need to take anything apart.
  • jsills78jsills78 Member Posts: 2
    I mean the radiator fan, sorry. I understand it should come on at certain temps, but should it start as soon as the van is cranked? It starts blowing every ten seconds as soon as you crank it. It just runs for a few seconds and cuts back off. Same thing over and over again until we start going.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    What Cookie2 said.

    There's one screw hidden by a plastic cap in the door arm area; remove the cover and the screw and you can lift the whole door arm piece out. Then you can disconnect the switch from the wiring. The switch itself is held in place by 4 screws, so after you remove the connector (you may have to squeeze the sides while prying it off), it's an easy replacement. The part is about $80 last I heard.

    If you want to try to repair the switch, see my earlier post and maybe have a replacement lined up at the dealer first. :)

    Jr714, my Quest is a '99 and the crash ratings weren't so hot on it. Nissan improved the restraint system and did some other changes and the ratings got better in later years. Otherwise check for balky wiper switches and power window switches. Mine seems to be running ok at 104,500 miles; I did a recent CV boot/axle replacement and the tach is sticky.

    Steve, Host
  • spike59spike59 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, dmoniz or anyone with information on the front blower problem on 99' Villager...The only fan speed that works is the high or setting #3. The two front blower fuses are OK, the 10A relay is OK and the 65A under the hood appears to be OK. ANY suggestions...dmoniz said he replace the "sensor board". Is there onfomation on this procedure? I read about soldered connections??? Any information would be appreciated...
    Thanks in advance, Mike
  • spike59spike59 Member Posts: 4
    Anyone with information on the front blower problem on 99' Villager...The only fan speed that works is the high or setting #3. The two front blower fuses are OK, the 10A relay is OK and the 65A under the hood appears to be OK. ANY suggestions...dmoniz said he replace the "sensor board". Is there onfomation on this procedure? I read about soldered connections??? Any information would be appreciated...
    Thanks in advance, Mike
  • tab1tab1 Member Posts: 1
    My wife was recently stranded 500 miles from home when her 95 Villager began having problems on the highway. From a cold start or at low speeds, she said it ran fine. But once the engine had a chance to warm up and she tried to take it over 40-45mph, the van began to lurch and backfire.

    An inspection of the fuel, fuel lines and replacement of the fuel filter turned up nothing and did not eliminate the problem. Further inspection, however, turned up a "melted" catalytic converter containing pieces of the exhaust manifold. A complete replacement of the exhaust system still, however, did not eliminate the symptoms she described. This is when the diagnostic computer turned up a code showing a faulty knock sensor.

    A dealership service department informed her that this was the culprit and charged approx. $1000 parts/labor for the "repair". 5 days into this, she was told she could pick up the van, but when she did, the symptoms returned immediately!

    After replacing the sensor a second time, they then tried swapping out an ignition module and then an ignition coil. Eventually, through trial and error, it appears the actual culprit was the distributor.

    My question, though, after reading several posts in this forum, is whether a faulty knock sensor could even possibly have been the culprit. We're finding out after the fact that this service department has a reputation for encouraging unnecessary repairs (its rumored the techs are paid on commision). We were told that the damage to the exhaust system was caused by overheated exhaust going to/through the exhaust manifold. Could an inoperative knock sensor possibly have caused the symptoms she was experiencing or lead to the damage of the exhaust system that we had to replace?
  • jmishkajmishka Member Posts: 5
    I am not sure if anyone replied to this yet or not but I am pretty sure you can look in the manual that came with the van to see how the plastic cover comes off. I was looking to change the HEPA filter on my 99 Quest and I called the service guy and he told me there were instructions on how to take off the plastic "collar" because the HEPA filter is under it. When I found out the price of a new filter I did not bother looking this info up.

    My van is with a friend right now so I cant confirm but try looking it up under the cabin filter replacement section. Also the service guy said that they are a major pain to get on and off. He also mentioned something about special clips (or something like clips) that can give you problems but I can't remember if that was for the filter or the collar...sorry.
    Good Luck,
    Jenn
  • jmishkajmishka Member Posts: 5
    I have a 99 Quest withone heck of a problem. Recently my father and I changed the front brakes and rotors as the pads were very low and the rear shoes as they were getting low as well. Yet there is a weird problem that not one person has been able to figure out...including the Nissan dealer.
    After putting on the rear shoes on both sides we put on the drums and reversed the lug nuts so the flat side would be touching the drum (no tire at this poitn) and tightened them just finger tight.. Then we spun the drum to see if everything was moving freely before putting the tires back on. Well the passenger side was fine but the drives side would only spin for 1 revolution and then the lug nuts in the 4 to 5 o'clock positions would become so tight you couldnt loosen them without the lug wrench and the nut in the 10 to 11 o'clock position would be away from the drum about a 1/32 or so, enough to easily see the space gap.

    So we adjusted the tension screw to bring the shoes all the way in with no luck.

    We filed the metal edges of the shoe down because we thought they might be dragging because we saw some shiney non-black areas after the first couple of spinning attempts but no luck.

    So we thought the shoes were not the same but both sides match in length and width and match the old ones except in length the new ones are about 1 inch longer.

    So we thought the drum might be out of round so we swapped drums and again no problem on the passenger side but the same problem on the drivers side so the drum is ok.

    So we took the shoes off, checked behind them etc and there was no debris and we checked the backer plate which seemed ok so we put the shoes back on again and still the same drivers side issue.

    So then we thought the bearing had been extened too far and had wedged itself sideways in the shaft so we took a look at that and all seemed ok. We did not take the bearing out because then you must replace it and it is self-contained and cant be "repacked" or so we were told by Nissan dealer. But there were not burnt areas and it seemed in the correct position.

    So we put everything back together, drum still stuck but I drove the thing down the road anyway and the wheel did turn and the brakes worked but the drivers side drum gets REALLY hot as compared to the passenger side drum.

    So because we ran out of ideas we have put the old shoes back on the drivers side and are looking for some...any... ideas. The local parts guy made me promise to tell him what it turns out to be as they are quite intrigued at this point.

    One thing is that when you beat (and I mean really hard on the drum) with a hammer after you reach the "no more turning freely point" you can get the drum to turn another 1/4 turn or so with "each beating" but it is very difficult to turn and only my father can turn it I am not strong enough. When you first tighten up the lug nuts finger tight you can get one full revolution but then no more unless you really wail on it to get the xtra 1/4 turns.

    We are at this point thinking the back plate or axle is off but it works fine/spins-freely when we put the old almost spent brake shoes on, which are the same width as the new shoes but an inch shorter than the new ones.

    We didnt notice any undue wear on the inside face of the drum either. But we did notice that the shoe in the most rear position was wearing funny on the bottom side, the innermost area on the pad (at the very bottom closest the backing plate) is worn about 1/2 inch up in an excessive manner but on the outermost bottom area is worn 1.5 inches up the pad in an excessive manner like it has been sheared off or someone filed it...but you can see the wear lines so it wasnt "sheared" per se.

    We seem to have stumped everyone we have spoken to in our area and any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
    Jenn

    PS Also the front brakes get very hot now and smoke when I drive through puddles of water. Is this normal? (The pads were very low before so that may be why I never noticed before and the calipers are functioning fine ie not stuck open from formerly low pads etc)
  • nlc63nlc63 Member Posts: 6
    question to tab1: was it the distributer or the distributer cap that was the problem? If it was the distributer, how did they diagnose it? I am asking because I also have a knock sensor code (but no symptoms). Thanks.
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Welcome to the Forums, jmishka! You might also want to ask your questions of the experts in the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes Forum.

    ClaireS

    MODERATOR

    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review

  • wisblueyedgirlwisblueyedgirl Member Posts: 4
    let me know if you have any luck finding out the cause of your problem, as i will do the same for you. we have a '93 nissan quest with the SAME exact problem we were advised to change the Distributor and rotor. did that, no change, went back then were advised to change the plugs and wires. did that, and no change....then the fuel filter was suggested as the final problem...you guessed it...did that no change! we are at a loss. so far, 300.00 down, and no sucess. the van runs GREAT on a cold start for approx. 30 minutes, then with no warning starts with the chugging/backfiring/and loss of power (can't get it over 40 mph. i would appreciate any help you can provide as i will do the same for you! i am leaning towards the problem being the fuel pump, however i am in no mood to change that, only to find "NO CHANGE" yet again!
  • dbrem26dbrem26 Member Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem with my 00' Villager. I don't know if it is exactly the same but it was the front blower motor resistor. It is located under the passenger side dash in front of the blower motor. If you can get your head under there, you don't need to remove the glove box or anything. There are wires running from the blower motor to a wide plug that is plugged into the resistor. Unplug this. Then use an 8mm nut driver to remove the two screws holding in the resistor. The resistor will then slide out. Normally hidden from view, once you pull it you will see the circuit board and it is probably fried. Mine was fried and the corner even broke off. Local Mercury dealer had the part in stock for $32. Replaced it and it works fine now. Dealer said that it just happens sometimes with these. Fairly common so they stock the part. Hope that helps.
  • kkightkkight Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone! I'm new to this board, but really didn't know what else to do. I have a 2000 Nissan Quest, and so far, not any real problems. However, today my van just started locking itself, over and over! At first I thought maybe the battery was just going dead in my remote, so I popped it apart, but the van continued to blow, and lock itself. The only way I stopped it was to disconnect the battery cables! I would take it to the dealership, but I'm 45 minutes to the nearest one. Has anyone else had this problem, or any suggestions for me? Thanks in advance~ K
  • dmonizdmoniz Member Posts: 15
    Hi Mike,

    If you read Msg #1874 from dbrem26, he explains the procedure as I did it. It was very simple and took only a few minutes. It's just a little awkward to reach this board since it's under the passenger side dash. Also, once I removed it, it looked burnt as I read here from another Quest owner.

    Good luck,

    Dave
  • wisblueyedgirlwisblueyedgirl Member Posts: 4
    Boy do i feel stupid!! After replacing and repairing just about everything under the hood, turns out my problem was only that the air filter cover was not on tight so it sealed, causing too much air to get to the Mass air flow sensor! funny thing is i had this to 2 different garages, 600.00 spent, new distributor cap/rotor, new plugs and wires, new fuel filter, new ignition module and coil, new resonator and catalatyc converter, and it turns out that the damn mechanic didn't realize that the only prob was that the filter cover was not sealed properly, so all in all i fixed it myself...after tightening down the cover the van runs great, not to bad for 190,000 miles...now i have to run it longer to get my money back out of it haa haa! i will be calling back that garages tomorrow to boast about my fix it job, and asking for money back! i think the "professionals" should have noticed something as simple as that. i also think that is going to be the last time i "pay" for someone to do a tune up on my vehicle, if they can't even put the air filter in correctly.....best of luck to all that are having troubles, i am sure that not everyones fix will be as easy as mine was, but it sure was a good lesson learned! :)
  • saremzachguysaremzachguy Member Posts: 2
    mine is a 93 quest GX.......yes they had to replace the engine mounts....one at about 90,000..........the other front mount at about 130,000

    currently 160,000 and doing ok.

    door locks; I've noticed in the past couple of weeks that the driver side door lock (the most used), is getting increasingly difficult to operate. However, can't say if it's the lock, or is some sum-[non-permissible content removed] tried to pick it, because I noticed what looked like "pick marks" on it. they are manual locks....not power locks.

    on the other hand.....could be a bad tumbler. for example...my ignition tumbler has been shot for about 5 years now........you can remove the key while it's running.....and it doesn't always operate smoothly.

    However, after 12 years of faithful service, with nothing major gone wrong.....I'm not complaining.

    sacramento
  • saremzachguysaremzachguy Member Posts: 2
    fuel connector hose recall; dang....mine 93 GX started the gas filler hose leak thing in about mid 98....I was broke (divorce) so finally checked the NHTSA website....

    called a local sacramento dealer.....set the appointment..got it done no charge and timely too.

    sacramento
  • dahackerdahacker Member Posts: 1
    Can you be more specific on what you did to fix the problem? I am having the same problem and the dealer told me that the entire throttle body would need to be replaced at a cost of close to $200. Thanks!
  • mikemanmikeman Member Posts: 1
    hi, I also have a 95 villager, very sluggish when the ac is on, did you find out what is causing the problem?
  • llegg1llegg1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Nissan Quest that is less than 2 months old. We discovered a whistling noise coming from the driver side when the AC is on recirculation. Has anyone else had this problem? If you did, was the source of the problem found? The Dealership has had the van for 4 days and still has no clue as to what it is.
  • marku1marku1 Member Posts: 11
    The good news is that it was a fairly easy fix. I tried everything, checked everything and finally gave in and went to the dealer (my wife had very little patience- driving in Houston without good excelleration is dangerous!). It ended up being a fouled spark plug wire. A $40 set of wires and a hefty bill for the info.! Another problem that was corrected at the same time, which may have contributed to the problem was a restricted thermostat. It would open enough to allow water flow but would not open all the way. The only indication was the temp. gauge reading was just a hair higher than usual but it was still well within the "normal" range as indicated on the gauge. That very small increase in temp. has a huge impact on the electronic engine control system. The dealer said that the control system does several things to protect the engine when it senses high temp. and they all have a negative impact on performance.
    The dealer wanted almost $1,000 to replace the thermostat, water pump, fluid, spark plugs and wires...but these were small things so I did it myself.
    I do not know if this is the same problem you have. My problem stated out as sluggish with the ac on and then continued to slowly get worse. It started to do the same thing with the ac off and started using more gas.
    I would start with new plugs and wires. Be careful to set the gaps properly( the tech. that did my last tune-up skipped this step!).
    NOTE: If your water temp. gauge reading is ANYWHERE else besides the spot it has always been( even in the "NORMAL" range) and your engine is having problems, change the thermostat first. It is the cheapest and fastest thing to replace, and is most likely the problem.
    Good luck, let us know how it works out.
    Mark
  • villagerman2villagerman2 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a rear blower that doesn't work.

    How do I get at the front controls apart to work on it? My problem sounds real similar since it only works once and a while. The while is getting longer and longer.
    Thanks for any help.
  • wcislowcislo Member Posts: 3
    My '96 Maxima's check engine light came on and the codes showed: knock sensor, TPS, and 2nd gear a/t. I had the bands adjusted ($35) to clear the 2nd gear a/t and a week later the codes for knock sensor, TPS and 1st gear a/t came on. Transmission company now want to do a diagnosis on the TPS (for $100+) to find out what problem is and go from there. After reading about your problems I'm thinking I should just have the TPS replaced. But whatever happened with your knock sensor?
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