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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • palmettodavepalmettodave Member Posts: 1
    Just a bit of information for all of you plagued with rear a/c problems. If you are willing to do without your rear A/C, here is a trick that I used to disable the rear leaving the front A/C working. You will need a 1/2 plumbing compression fitting with a cap and a 1/4 plumbing compression fitting with a cap. Go through all the necessary protocols to ensure your system is fully dischared. Once dischared, jack up the front of the car so the 4 lines going to the rear unit are visable. There are two lines coated in rubber, once is 1/2 inch outside diameter and the other is 1/4 inch outside diameter. Using a small pipe cutter, cut about a 2 inch section from each a/c tube. I chose to cut the section as close to the engine as possible ensuring the lines to the A/C system were not damaged. Also, very important, the tubes going towards the engine must be straight. Lightly sand the tubes going towards the engine to remove any burrs. Place the compression fittings on the sanded tubes and torque it down pretty good. Probably not a bad idea to use teflon tape. After the compression fitting is tight, put on the caps. Charge up your system and you should be good to go! This fix worked great for us and saved the $1000 dollars or so for new rear lines and a condensor. It took about 2 hours and cost from the plumbing store were about $12.00. My only concern is how the brass fitting will react to R134 over time??? One word of warning, carefully trace the pipes ensuring they are for the a/c. Otherwise, you will get a face full of radiator fluid, or worst yet, brake fluid.
  • jmishkajmishka Member Posts: 5
    So my speedometer and cruise control quit last week to add to the problems with the van... I guess 90,000 is the magic number.

    So I pulled two trouble codes out: speed sensor and knock sensor

    I replaced the speed sensor had the OBD reset and still getting CEL on all the time and OD flashing upon starts. There is no knocking in the engine at all with any grade of gas.

    I am trying to find out if there is a short in the system, because someone told me that the same exact symptoms showed up in his wife’s 99 Villager and it was a short in the Knock sensor wires and that they had to remove the dash to get to it.

    I have a Haynes manual and it shows the schematics but it doesn’t clearly show me where the ECM is. Now I think I have located it on the left side of engine compartment near the manifold, a black rectangular box with wires going into it from both sides and when I undid the 10mm screw on the front of it and pulled off one of the plastic covers I found it had numbers corresponding to the wires.

    The problem is I can’t tell which number corresponds to the knock sensor cuz the Haynes Manual doesn’t tell me!! Does anyone know if I am really looking at the ECM and which wire number corresponds to the knock sensor in my 99 Quest. If I remember correctly there are 42 numbers/wires in all.

    Does anyone know exactly where the wire comes out of the manifold for the knock sensor? We are currently checking the right hand side and we think we may have located it but can’t find the harness it should go into.

    Also are there better manuals out there for this vehicle other than the $210.00 CD-Rom (printed is $275.00) from Nissan themselves for the shop/service manual?

    Thanks any advice is appreciated and I am fearful that this is going to cost me minimum $500-1000 to fix.

    Jenn

    I apologize if this info is located somewhere on the list already but I can’t seem to locate it.
    So other than the speedometer and the cruise not working I haven’t had any major issues until today…today the van worked fine on the way into work but when I left I got back on the highway and it started smoothly lurching almost like major hesitation, no backfiring, and then it wouldn’t go more than 30 mph with the pedal to the floor on the highway. And after full stops it wont accelerate very quickly if I try to “push it” it get very sluggish response. I looked at the throttle cable and cruise cable and both seem ok, the throttle cable is a bit loose. SO I am thinking it was/is the knock sensor which makes me very unhappy.
  • nlc63nlc63 Member Posts: 6
    Knock sensor is still an issue. I am thinking that the gas may be causing this error (i.e. the knock sensor was actually sensing a knock). My wife usually uses regular (87 octane); I filled up with premium (93 octane) and I did not get a check engine light for over a week. My wife then filled up with 87 again and the light came back on in 1 - 2 days; the codes were knock sensor and IAT sensor (same as before). I need to redo the experiment to verify if it was the gas or just coincidence. By the way, I have already checked the knock sensor signal with an Oscilloscope; it seemed ok. I think the incoming voltage was ok (12v) -Manual does not show which is the power wire. I also checked the IAT sensor multiple times - resistance checks out and changes with temp. and 5.0 volts is there, so I don't understand why I'm getting this code. Finally, I purchased a code reader; I noticed that the knock sensor code did not light the light - it was the IAT that set off the light. My advise is to take care of the TPS - that may also clear the a/t code (it did for me).
    If you have a multimeter, check the voltage coming out of the TPS. I don't remember for sure, but I think it is supposed to be between 0.4vdc - 0.5vdc. You adjust it by loosening the TPS screws and rotating the TPS slightly. Also, check that the other connector (TP switch) is shorted at idle. This is how I fixed my TPS - I never replaced it. NOTE: Somehow the TPS position moved the first time, so I had to do it twice, so don't worry if the error comes back - check the TPS again. ALSO, if you decide to replace the TPS, you will still have to do the adjustment. Finally: you will know if your TPS is not adjust right - you will notice the idle speed is high. Good luck, I would be interested to know how you make out.
  • crit2crit2 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 villager with similar problems as yours with the speedometer. At times it will go weeks without a problem, then while driving the speedometer will fluctuate to 0 and back to the speed your are running. If we shut the engine off, it will clear and then may or may not repeat the problem. Do you have any recommendations for fixing the problem?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Does anyone know if I am really looking at the ECM and which wire number corresponds to the knock sensor in my 99 Quest

    I have the factory manual for my '99 Quest. In one place it says that the ECM can be viewed after removing the instrument panel; in another place it says the ECM is located behind the instrument lower cover; it looks to be underneath/behind the glove compartment in the dash. In one diagram there looks to be a wire bundle on one side (right side facing the dash?) and a relay on the back of the unit (a longish rectangle). Another diagram shows the wiring harness on the front of the box with wires going in and out from the center.

    Confused? I am - the manual is probably making it worse!

    The ECM terminal reference table says the knock sensor terminal no. is 64 and the wire is white. The DC voltage should be approximately 2.5V at idle.

    Usual disclaimers - I'm not a wrench turner and much of the stuff in the manual is way over my head.

    Steve, Host
  • jmishkajmishka Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for your help I will have a look... I thought that should be under the dash..I used to date a Ford driveability tech and he showed me how to pull codes etc and told me once the computer ECM is under the dash passenger side on almost if not all vehicles...I should have trusted that advice.

    I can't believe the Haynes manual said it was in the engine compartment next to the manifold!! I am very UNhappy with the Haynes manual it really doesn't tell you much. I am praying it is not the $1000.00 buried under everything elusive knock sensor... although that is better than the trani needing to be replaced. But I have to say all in all I love my minivan and if its needs to go to the Dr...then I will just have to suck it up :sick:
    Jenn
  • radzradz Member Posts: 1
    i have a similar problem with the one you are experiencing. I changed my TPS and it fixed the problem. actually i repaired the TPS and it worked perfectly and save a lot of $$.

    robert
  • stigmatastigmata Member Posts: 10
    Relay 2 on the climate control board is probably bad. Cut mine open and jumped the relay to get it to work.
  • spike59spike59 Member Posts: 4
    Hi dbrem, Thanks so much for the info...I will be doing this job this weekend and will let you know how it goes.
    Thanks again, Spike59 :)
  • spike59spike59 Member Posts: 4
    Hi dmoniz, I have been away and will now tackle the job,,,thanks, I really appreciate the response.
    Thanks,
    Mike
  • wisblueyedgirlwisblueyedgirl Member Posts: 4
    i think we are having the same prob with our A/C. '93 nissan quest, 190,000 miles, only prob no A/C. charged system, compressor works, but it leaks out as fast as you can put it in. Mechanic at Tuffy said he was 90% sure without looking at the van, because that would have costed 200.00 just for a peak, said that it was the hoses that went to the rear A/C that were leaking (apparently this is a prob with these vans). My question is, when i looked in my haynes manual it shows 4 hoses that are for the heat and A/C?? which ones would i check? is discharging the system necessary if you show no pressure on the A/C gauges?? it reads 0 when you hook up the gauge. The highway robbery mechanic that i talked to wants 100.00 just to discharge the system, which is a total crock, considering i am leaving the crap with them. please let me know if you can help it is 100 degrees here, and with 6 kids i REALLY could use some A/C, but without the charges at the garage! TOTALLY FRUSTRATED IN OHIO......... :confuse:
  • pastorckpastorck Member Posts: 2
    I have not seen the actual rear A/C linings. However, I am thinking of using 1/4 inch copper piping to supply the rear. Could that work as these are normally used in the plumbing gas jobs?
    How effective is the front A/C working only when temp. are so high with young kids "cooking" in the back?
    Thanks for your prompt feedback folks! :confuse:
  • ken39ken39 Member Posts: 8
    I have read all over this board about the rear A/c not working but no real fix. My front A/c only works on High speed. Now I read that the problem may be in the front fan relay? Not sure still. Any Ideas? :confuse:
  • aerosnowaerosnow Member Posts: 13
    can anyone recommend a mechnic in the Queens NYC area? Need to replace belts and water pump but dealers wants $800. Can anyone help?
  • earle1earle1 Member Posts: 1
    hi .
    also have same problem with front seat belts same year 95 villager.
    i can get them to move from 'b to a' by pushing down on the red button near the park brake, with the door open.
    closing the door returns them to the b,position where they stay!
    what is my-our problem
  • marku1marku1 Member Posts: 11
    Hi,
    My belts were stuck for one day. After several trips and many attempts to get them to work in the driveway, they still would not budge! Then, my wife returned from the library the next day and said they were working. And they have worked perfectly ever since. Sorry that I can't help.
    Mark
  • nshaukatnshaukat Member Posts: 1
    I have 1998 quest and starting experiencing the same problem for last few months. I had to call the road service this weekend as I was locked out due to this problem. Would you please share if you got it diagnosed by the dealer?

    nshaukat
  • sparky_bsparky_b Member Posts: 1
    For the 1999 Quest driver door window switch issue...

    I actually removed the bottom cap of the switch box, and then I carefully pried the circuit board out. It comes out, but as steve said, each of the black switch caps have in them a white doohickey, and that doohickey is then latched onto a white base with hinge bumps on either side (just like the caps are held onto their black bases). The white base is then snapped to the circuit board with press tabs. I think the board must have also had a bit of glue holding it in, but it didn't seem like much.

    So, you have to basically pry around the board (carefully, but firmly) until it pops off each of the switches. Took me a bit to work it loose. When it does come loose, some of the switches will likely come off of their rocker bumps - don't drop any of the switches as they come free, as there is a spring and a small white headpiece that you need, in each.

    Once the board was free, I could see all of those white bases on the top side. I pried off the one for the bad switch, took out the metal rockers in there, and could see that the base connections were pretty bad. I cleaned those using a small wire brush. I then cleaned the rockers and put those back. I put the white base back on, and put the circuit board back in, and put the bottom cap back on. Then I could push each switch back into it's slot. The only thing that I couldn't get put back right was the child window lock, which I really didn't try hard to put back (we don't use it).

    Took me maybe a bit more than an hour all-told, and saved myself $80. My van has 110,000 and it still looks very sharp. Have replaced an oxygen sensor, two ball joints, and a power steering box...I think that's it...

    Hope that's helpful.

    sparky
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    That's pretty good - so you were able to attack the problem from underneath and not destroy the black caps in the process. Heh, where were you a few months ago? :shades:

    Mine seem to still be working fine btw.

    Steve, Host
  • 16crewdawg16crewdawg Member Posts: 1
    The Van died tonight stranding the wife & Kids. When I went to tow them back, the motor would not get going, even though it would turn over.

    I pulled the distributor, and right away there was the problem. The metal contact arm had broken off the top of the rotor, thus no spark, no inginition.

    The problem I have now is that I can't get the rotor off. I found & removed the screw on the back of the rotor, but it still wont come off. Am I missing something? I tried to pry it off, but ended up busting the back half of the rotor. I just want to be sure before I start to pry again, as I'd hate to break out the whole distributor, - quite costly.

    Mike
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    I have not performed this procedure, so there may be some other "trick" involved in removing the rotor, but the (1999) factory service manual says to remove the screw in order to remove the rotor. My guess is that it is just stuck on there good. I would keep working at it. It won't matter if you destroy the rotor when removing, you just don't want to damage the distributor.
  • crit2crit2 Member Posts: 6
    I am having strange problems with my 2001 Villager. Occasionally, the speedometer will quit working. It usually happens when we are running at 55-65 MPH. It will fluctuate between 0 and the speed you are running. Sometimes it will stay at 0, other times the problem stops and the speedometer works normally. If we shut off the engine it temporarily clears the problem. Needless to say it effects the cruse control and at times the van seems to loose power when the problem is occuring. Has anyone experienced a problem such as this, or does anyone have any ideas?
    Please help.

    Steve
  • edk1edk1 Member Posts: 2
    We have a"99 villager 30,000 mi.and experienced the same problem coupled with a misfire and knock sensor code. Mechanics kept giving the car back supposedly fixed.Not!
    The knock sensor was tied to the misfire and turned out to be malfunctioning fuel injector. It seeped fuel into the combustion chamber causing a rich mixture and misfire.
    I bought my own ODBII scanner and determined the upstream O2 sensor was not working. Changed it and got immediate improvement.
    In the course of fooling around, I did change the cap and rotor before the O2 sensor and experienced no change.
    Changing the cap and rotor is relatively easy but if you;ve never done it before, buy a manual and proceed methodically, don't mix up the firing order. You can change the O2 senser too, requires working under the front of the car, proper tools, anti seize compoud and in my case, ( the connectors didn't match ) I had to splice the old connector to the new sensor wire.The sensor was an after market unit.
    Try to find a manual better than Haynes.
    good luck Ed
  • edk1edk1 Member Posts: 2
    Steve, Change yor speed sensor. Mine began acting up the same way and within a few months quit for good.
  • crit2crit2 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks, for the advice. Today I pulled the sensor out. I didn't seem to rotate freely, or maybe not as free as I would expect. I cleaned the contacts in the connector, they appeared to have some oxidation, and re-installed. The next step is replacement.
    Thanks again...
    Steve
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Is there a similar fix for a sticky tach?

    Steve, Host
  • jasonimacjasonimac Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find the solution to your problem? I am currently having the same problem with my 98 Nissan Quest that I just recently bought from a private owner. We do not have a remote. Any help would be much appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Jason
  • crit2crit2 Member Posts: 6
    I don't have an answer for your tack, but my earlier work on my sensor was unsuccessful. My wife informed me today that it quit again. Off to the dealer I go...

    Steve
  • ebrittebritt Member Posts: 1
    Hi Ken,
    You need to replace the front heater a/c control. Ernie
  • cruznmamacruznmama Member Posts: 1
    Ive owned this van since 2000 and can honestly say maintainance has been very reasonable and the vehicle itself has been very reliable, but as we know with age and mileage(112,000) come problems. Recently the motor started running rougher, it has a dry rubbing and tinging type sound. We use synthetic oil and it reads perfect on the stick and the vans power still seems to be there, any thoughts. Also, after having the fuel system cleaned because of a sticking gas pedal the check engine light stays on. I have brought it back several times and the dealership just resets it and blames it on the cleaners they used 2yrs. ago. Im not sure if this last group of problems is connected but if anyone has any advice I would appreciate it. Its the turn signal, Ive never experienced any problems with it until Nissan decided to change it out because of a recall. Now my headlights flash dim to bright on their own and on occasions the drivers side goes completely out. Also the brake light and seat belt light indicator go on and off at will. The van goes back to the dealership Thurs. so if anyone has advice that I can give them please let me know. Thank you. :sick: Oh I almost forgot the belts, they squeal like mad and they were just put on a few months back. It used to be for a minute or so not it lasts all day. Nissan has rechecked them along with a couple other garages and they all say the belts are fine. Is it possible for the belt or belts to have a defect. Thanks. :confuse:
  • arkiegirlarkiegirl Member Posts: 1
    My 99 quest has had just about every part of the braking system replaced by the dealer. Still the left front brake will stay on while you are driving and have taken the foot off the brake. This has resulted in a burning smell and a very hot tire which alerted us to the problem and we took the car right over to the dealer. The company was called and all their suggestions have been tried. Today they are replacing the master brake cylinder for the second time. Anyone else had this problem. Thanks Arkiegirl
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Welcome to the Forums, arkiegirl! You might also want to ask about this in the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion in our Maintenance & Repair Forum. I think the members there might have some valuable feedback for you.

    ClaireS, Host
    Coupes & Convertibles | Vans & Minivans

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  • richardsmanrichardsman Member Posts: 1
    After much research, I purchased, two weeks ago, a '99 Villager Estate with just under 17,000 miles on it. All seems well and good, but has anyone found a practical way to bring the fuel mileage above 20 mpg? And, is there anything about which I should be wary?
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    >20 mpg? Easy. Put the cruise on 70 mph and don't move it. 24.1 mpg on my 2000 w/ 83k.

    I understand this isn't always possible in town...

    -Mathias
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    My '99 Estate has about 89,000 miles on it. No major problems to date, just the normal minor annoyances of rattles from the middle seats and the middle side window latches not wanting to hold the windows closed tight.

    I struggle to get better than 21 MPG on the road and 17 MPG in town. Still on the original shocks/struts - about time to consider replacing them. I have found this vehicle to be very reliable and a pretty good value.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    I get 17-18 MPG in town with mostly stop and go driving. I just took an 800 mile trip with a mixture of interstates, four lane highways, going through some small towns, and getting stuck in traffic. I got 22.5 MPG, and I had the van fairly loaded up. I have a 2001 base with 39K.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • reedbrreedbr Member Posts: 2
    It's OK, the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) part is only $35 from the dealer. It's one of the better deals. Mine died the exact same way last summer on a road trip. The only killer is that the cruise control won't work if your on a trip, and after about 30 miles of it not working, the CE light will come on since the computer uses road speed for some of it's calculations. After replacing the VSS, the CE won't go off until you reset it with an OBDII scanner.
  • reedbrreedbr Member Posts: 2
    I haven't thought much of this until I read your post. As part of my 60K mile maintenance (done slowly over the course of 6 months and 5,000 miles) I replaced the spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and plug wires. I was getting 20mpg on road trips with the van loaded down and running down the road at 75mph. I just finished a week on vacation and was surprised when my milage was better than 23mpg on every tank, again loaded down. I didn't put the two together until just now.

    By the way, I used offical dealer parts and they were expensive. However, the fit was perfect which made the installation a breeze.
  • crit2crit2 Member Posts: 6
    I wish the cost was only $35. I paid $147 at the dealer for the sensor... Called all of the junk yards in the area and they had none. It appears that it corrected the problem. "fingers crossed"
  • agape2agape2 Member Posts: 1
    I have recently become the owner/driver of a '93 Villager.
    It is in pretty good shape, and I like it well enough - except for just
    2 things - I am used to a smaller, less thirsty vehicle....but that is
    just a fact - my question is about the 2nd thing - the central locks
    work, but the driver's door lock cylinder is jammed, maybe with a
    broken key fragment inside, so, my question:

    Would someone tell me where the relay lives that controls the
    locks when the lock/unlock button is pressed ?
    I have a nifty little remote unit I would like to wire in so I don't
    have to take apart the driver's door OR always unlock the
    passenger's door to get in each time.....

    Thanks !

    mark
  • jblake3jblake3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 Villager LS with 101,000 miles. I was informed by the dealer's service department that I have no braking at all with my rear brakes due to a broken proportioning valve. Price for part and labor for a new valve is around $375.00.

    My question is. If I have no braking with my rear brakes wouldn't my brake warning light go on
    whenever I pressed on the brake pedal? The brake warning light does come on and then
    goes off when I start the car. I did some research today on the function and how the hydraulic proportioning valve works. From what I understand, the valve doesn't stop hydraulic fluid from going
    to the back brakes, only limits the amount of fluid going to rear brakes during hard braking to prevent the rear brakes from locking up.

    Is the service department trying to rip me off? What are your opinions?

    Thanks John
  • lifesavinlifesavin Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 95 Nissan Quest XE. I'm having problems with the van dying. The van runs absolutely perfect except OCCASSIONALLY when I slow for a stop sign or corner, the van dies. It doesn't putter or make any noises, it just dies.

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! I really don't want to take it somewhere and get totally ripped off if it's something small I can fix myself (or honestly so my husband can fix it!).

    Thanks!

    :cry:
  • duaneh1duaneh1 Member Posts: 1
    The rear fan stopped working several years ago on my 96 Villager. The fix is relatively simple. The following instructions may be slightly incorrect, I'm doing it from memory.

    The problem (at least on mine, I think it was fixed in later models) is that the high current line for the fan power goes through a PC board trace in the control unit. The trace just isn't large enough to reliably handle that much power. If you pull the control unit (dash) you'll probably find a burned trace. The fix is to just replace this with a soldered in wire. I think the fix on later models was to change this signal to control an additional relay that switched the high current.
  • tchutchu Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 mercury villager with 124, 000 miles. Today I replaced a new throttle position sensor, and afterward I went for a test drive. I noticed that the acceleration was very slow from first gear to second. It was not like that before I replaced that sensor. So I decided to put the old TPS sensor back and went for another test drive. The slow acceleration is still there. I was wondering if there is a trick to install the TPS sensor or it was just coincident that a new problem exist.
    So I tried isolating the problem by putting the vechicle from a dead start and put the transmission on D1 and shift to D2 and to D. The van accelerate fine by maual shifting. Can this be a problem in the transmission or a cable need adjustment?

    Thank you,

    Tony
  • motormountmotormount Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Quest which I had one of the front motor mounts replaced 3 months ago. I took it back to Pep Boys today and they say now I have a front and a rear motor mount broken. Not sure if it is the same front one or not as of yet. This car only has about 35000 miles and I have owned since it had 27000. Is this to be expected? Also, I wonder if the dealer would know a trick to repair where they will not break again or can I assume Pep Boys knows what they are doing?? Thanks.
  • off_momoff_mom Member Posts: 1
    My husband was driving our 96 Mercury Villager GS on the interstate (70 mph) when the "back end tried to pass him". He spun around and hit a concrete divider with the back passenger side. Fortunately he was uninjured. He has no idea what happened, except when you look under the rear passenger side of the van, the suspension is broken. Someone has told him about "catastrophic suspension failure". I wondered if anyone out there knows anything about this.

    P.S. The van was purchased in 1998 with 65K, now has 177K. No other major problems. We've only replaced the compressor for the a/c in addition to regular maintanence.
  • richbalrichbal Member Posts: 1
    I'VE BEEN DEALING WITH NISSAN ABOUT THE FAULTY CRANK THEY INSTALLED IN THE 93-95 MODELS FOR THE PAST 20 MONTHS AND HAVE A COURT DATE NEXT WEEK TO RESOLVE MY CLAIM. I HAD MINE FAIL AT 160K BUT SINCE THEY WERE REPLACED BY A LARGER CRANK(25TO32MM) IN THE 1996 MODELS I FEEL THEY ARE PARTIALLY RESPONSIBLE. I WILL BE TRYING TO CONVINCE A WOMAN JUDGE SO ANY SUGGESTIONS ANYONE HAS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THEY HAVE GIVEN ME THE SILENT TREATMENT SO FAR AND THE $3500.00 BILL NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!
  • joenuke1joenuke1 Member Posts: 1
    Did anyone ever find a solution to disabling the security system on the quest??? Mine is having many issues and I just want to lock the door by key without it setting off the alarm.
  • tod13tod13 Member Posts: 1
    I too had a problem in heat last week driving into high altitude. I have 1995 Villager with over 100,000 miles. Van just died while driving with air on and into hills. Tow truck driver said I was six vehicle that day with similar problem. He suggested that it was "Vapor Lock," however, I have heard this does not exist on newer vehicles anymore. Even though, he turned the gas cap slightly and the van worked okay for remainder of weekend in altitude. Also suggested that after filling up tank in lower elevation and than rising to over 7000 feet contributed to problem. My mechanic did not think this was problem but will not be able to recreate problem in lower elevation. So, is it a vacuum issue, emissions problem, gas cap, anyone have a clue?
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Good luck, Richbal. By the way, typing in ALL CAPS makes it look like you're shouting at readers, so it's best to take your caps lock when you post.

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