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Chevrolet Cavalier

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Comments

  • 02cavalier02cavalier Member Posts: 20
    My 02 Cav has been problem free for the two years I have owned it. 2.2L engine with the five speed. Never gets less than 30 mpg. Best mpg was 39 on the highway. This car has the most power of any four banger I have ever owned.
  • kmagkmag Member Posts: 98
    Wife's 01 Cav coupe has been a good running car. Bought it with 29K in January and is now approaching 40K. Got hosed on the purchase but the car has done well. Not the best small car I have driven but certainly not the worst. Crossing my fingers hoping it lasts......
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    I decided to give Chevy a chance since they have been so good to the economy...by being good to car buyers. I have seen their ratings improve considerably on quality and consumer satisfaction over the years. They haven't had the major stumbles like Ford had on the Explorer and and the Focus (quality control issues on the Focus, mainly related to the first year).

    I also have a Ford Focus ZX3 with the PZEV enginge - no air and a 5 speed - that I got as an "advertised special" for $9k.

    The 2004 Cav Coupe cost me 10,295, less $200 California rebate for increased license fees. List price was $10,700 with the 5 speed, air con, and cd player. If you punch in a California zip code on gmbuypower.com you can see the "Special Value Package" option, which is the 1SV package. You can't add any options, like ABS, or this model reverts to regular "base model" pricing. There are no rebates on this special model (but you save on taxes and license fees which would otherwise be charged on rebate amounts). Current rebate is $4,000.00, but I did the math and there is no way to grind a 2004 below 11,000 just with the generous rebate. I am sure, however, that these models will turn up in newspaper ads for under $10k at some point. It is a great marketing device.

    My car is quite fast with the Ecotec. Of course the Focus is quite fast with the 2.3 PZEV adapted from the Mazda6. In a couple of years I'll decide which one to keep - the Cav or the ZX3. A lot will depend on dealer service, reliabilty, glitches.

    My initial (over 100 miles) impression of the Cav is that the ZX3 has better NVH - "noise, vibration, harshness" - but a freeway speed the Cav is similarly quiet, with a solid feel over bumps, but comfortable on most road surfaces (the ZX3 I have, with the 15 inch wheels, is similarly compliant, but the ZX3's with the 16 inch wheels and lower profile tires are much harsher).

    The air con is strong, but sounds odd - the proverbial "hamster in an exercise wheel" kind of sound. Maybe something is out of whack, or maybe the compressor/fan is noisy; I'll have the dealer check it out at the first oil change.

    The Getrag tranny is worthy of "name branding." It is a nice unit, not as slick as the current Honda Civic 5 speed, but certainly "enthusiast" grade. The Ecotec is a little noisy until it warms up, then sounds more solid; it is always fast and strong. No hesitation like on the Focus ZX3 PZEV 2.3 (which I believe is the result of stricter pollution controls on the Focus).

    I am really impressed by the highway mileage ratings on the Ecotec with stick. This brings back memories of my 35 mpg Neons and 39 mpg Civic. Also I am betting it will do well at interstate speeds, unlike my former VW Golf which tended to suck fuel due to the very high freeway revs.

    Sound system is fine. I like the steering wheel, the actual temperature gauge, the 150,000 mile coolant (even if you are on the 3,000 mile service cycle!), the 100,000 mile spark plugs (even on the 3k service). I think its neat that Chevy includes in its official "inspections" "cleaning the radiator of bugs" since I do country road driving.

    Finally, the Coupe looks pretty good. I peeled off the "Cavalier" emblem, so now all that you see on the back is the big gold bow tie and the emossed "Chevrolet" name on the back bumper.
  • isseyvooisseyvoo Member Posts: 121
    Well, I'm laboring over the decision of whether or not to sink a bit of money into ole semi-reliable, or whether to say goodbye after 11 years. My '92 Cav, bought new, now has 102K on it, doesn't burn any oil, runs like a top, but I think will soon need its 1st new exhaust, a set of new tires, and possibly front end work, since I hear an occasional strange sound when turning at low speeds. Not to mention that coolant seems to disappear for the last couple years (to no obvious place - no puddling, no foam on dipstick, no "white smoke" out the tailpipe). I'm flip-flopping on whether or not to keep the car. It's a so-so car at best, but I'm sentimentally attached. Advice? I feel like I'd be euthanizing an elderly pet if I were to junk it.
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    Apparently the new Cobalt (replacing the Cavalier next year) will have an optional 2.4L 170 hp version of the Ecotec. The new Ecotec will have variable vale timing and also some added refinements.

    Should be a great leap in quality and refinement but I'm sure it will cost considerably more than the 10K bargain you drive now.

    :-)
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    If that 92 doesn't have any major issues and still runs as well as you say it does, why not hold on to the car and drive it until it dies? You're not gonna get much trading or selling the car, and you will more than likely have to end up making car payments on something newer.

    I have been through several cars in my 7 years of driving because I get tired of them. I sometimes wish I still held onto one of the cars I had, a 99 Protege DX. It was totally basic except for automatic and a CD player, but it was one of the most reliable cars I have owned. It would be totally paid for now, but of course with about 150K on it with the amount that I drive. :)

    Oh well, live and learn I guess...
  • hoyahenryhoyahenry Member Posts: 399
    Well, I know what you're saying. As someone who previously owned a 92 for 9.5 years, I would just note that from a safety perspective, you're at a disadvantage in that car compared to most other cars on the road today. One thing to consider....
  • dweezildweezil Member Posts: 271
    Even with all the rebates, you won't spend 10,000 dollars to go over your current car. Don't expect to get it back, ever, but you'll keep it going for at least another 5 years.
    The "safety" is relative. People are still driving VW Bugs on a daily basis,and you will ALWAYS encounter larger vehicles than yours even if you drive an SUV.
    I understand about the sentimental value. My 99 [trouble free 44,000 miles] Cavalier is the first brand new car I ever allowed myself and I will never get rid of it. It's been totally satisfying and reliable as well. I have had my 63 Valiant for 23 years and it's not going anywhere either.[and I only have seat belts in that one and have never been worried about it's safety. You get to know your car's limitations.]
    Remember, what your car is "worth" is what it's going to cost to replace it with something else.
    It's an old friend, keep it and fill your bank account with the car payments you would make on a new one. It adds up fast.
  • gambit293gambit293 Member Posts: 406
    My friend just got a 2004 LS sedan(ABS, power everything, auto., etc.).

    He got a GM family discount, plus whatever other incentives are going on right now. He ended up paying 11-something out the door.

    Is this a good deal? Or could he have done better? This was right near Youngstown, Ohio where the Cavalier is built.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    My 2004 Base Model, no power anything, cost 10,200, and I still feel I got a great deal (this is what my cheapie 93 Civic CX cost me in 92!).
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    At 600 miles, the engine is starting to break in and run a little smoother and surer. Came close to redline a couple of times and it revv'd freely and strong.

    Body and interior integrity high to date - no squeaks or rattles whatsoever.

    NVH is higher on hard acceleration and during warmup, but comparable to Ford Focus at cruise.

    Quality - fit and finish - seems comparable to the Ford Focus (which is high, except for 2000 and 2001 quality control issues) and my 2003 Honda Civic LX so far. It seems higher than Cavaliers I test drove in 99, 2000, and 2001. Possibly GM's mandate for better quality has made it down to the Cavalier; I was worried that GM was only pushing Impala and Malibu quality. In other words, nothing I have seen so far makes me think the Cavalier, even as a last year model, is a neglected, old style construction model.

    The one issue I HAVE had is the quality of handling - vagueness in the steering, wallowing when changing lanes. I thought this was due to soft springs and lack of a rear sway bar, but the other day I changed out my tires and the handling is now greatly improved - much more precise, more like a Focus ZX3, with enough springiness for a comfortable ride. Appararently the sidewalls on the stock tires (Goodyear Conquest) were quite flexible and were degrading handling, even with a 2 psi overfill (32 psi instead of factory 30 psi).

    I replaced the stock 195/70x 14 with 205/60x15 Bridgestone 950's. For wheels I used steel wheels with wheel covers - according to Tire Rack, which provided the package, their steel wheels (usually sold as part of their snow tire packages) are made by the OEM for GM which reassures me. Total cost of the 4 tires, wheels, with free mounting and balancing, and shipping, was $560, very reasonable for an upgrade in tire quality and size. Installation ran another $10 at a local tire store.

    The car now drives like its on rails, and freeway driving feels much more secure. I had planned on installing Eibach springs, but now I will wait a while.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    First, I had to shake my head at some of the things the salesman told me when I picked out my
    new 2002 Cavalier last year.

    Salesman said, "You'll only have to change the
    engine oil every 3,000 miles. That's all the
    maintenance this car will need for the first
    100,000 miles."

    I thought, "Huh?" (I started to walk away, but
    the $3,000 factory rebate kept me there.)

    I bought the car, a base coupe with 2200 push rod
    engine and 4 speed automatic. Paid $12,000.

    Right away, I read the owners' manual, and ordered the factory service manuals reverenced
    in the back pages available from Helm. These
    cost $120 plus $6 for shipping and are well worth
    the price.

    I felt that I was ready to do all my routine
    maintenance.

    Time came for the first oil and filter change. I was stumped. I had to go to the dealership and
    ask for help. The shop foreman said "No, you
    don't take off the filter from above. It can be worked on from underneath the car." I walked
    out and went to a quick lube place. They were
    nice enough to raise the hood and showed me
    exactly what parts to remove in order to have
    access from above. After they showed me, it
    was easy. (If anyone can change the oil filter
    from underneath on this particular model, they
    probably have removed the right wheel and the inner fender well. That would be very time consuming. And, the shop foreman at the dealership had given poor instructions.)

    Needless to say, I intend to avoid my dealer
    any way that I can for maintenance and repairs.
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    My 2002 Cavalier calls for one 22" blade (driver's
    side) and a 17" blade (passenger side).

    Factory blades are poor quality. Mine started
    "scraping" noises after only one year.

    The local "high quality" auto parts store sells
    Anco brand. These are MUCH better quality, and
    give added visability during operation. Complete
    arm assemblies with blades snapped on in just
    a couple of minutes. Cost was under $20.

    Wow. What an improvement !
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    I get my wiper blades at WalMart @ $ 2.44 each. They could last a year but I change them in the spring and in the fall and always have a very clean windshield.
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    In the trunk of my Cavalier I keep an "Action
    Packer" plastic tool chest (made by Rubbermaid).

    Think I'll pick up some of those wiper blades and
    stick them in the chest along with all my other
    handy things to carry along.

    Thanks again...
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    I have actually found some nice things to like about my Cav (it's not just an "appliance"):

    The odomoter is digital; mostly illuminated letters on a dark backgound. But, if the sun is shining on it, the letters DON'T wash out...they become reflective and behave like an lcd (reflective) instead of like an led (illuminated). Neat trick, impresive to see.

    The radio keeps playing when you turn off the ignition, until you open the driver's door. (The Focus ZX3 let's you turn the radio back on, for up to an hour of play, after turning off the ignition, but of course for a moment it goes dead and you "lose the moment." Other cars typically require you to put the key in, and turn on accessory mode. The VW lets the music play on, but dies when you take out the ignition key.)

    The speakers in my "special value package" $10,700 Neon...oops I meant Cavalier... are the premium coaxial variety, and sound better than (a) the six speakers in my former VW Golf; (b) the six speakers in my Scion xA (despite having a Pioneer unit from the factory with a rating 160 watts); and (c) most other cars I have had, ESPECIALLY the Honda Civic which really was pretty bad.

    Trust an American car to have an awesome radio, a unit that would probably pull in signals from a moon probe, kick a** acceleration, and an incredibly cheap sound on cold start up. It's a classic '56 Chevy - gets you to where you are going fast and cheap, with a radio.

    Now I just need to find the levy to park (shades of Don McLean...).
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    Having head gasket problems (according to this
    forum), I'm asking for any advice on how this
    problem might be prevented.

    (I realize the heads are alloy and they mate with
    a cast iron block which would have different
    heat expansion rate, and this is probably the
    primary cause of the gaskets to fail.)

    For example, should I be more careful while the
    engine builds to normal operating temperature?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Install an aftermarket gasket,the GM gasket is,well,cheap.
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    Copper head gaskets are virtually blow out proof
    when the metals are straight and clean at installation.

    Do you, or anyone, know of a source for this kind
    of gasket for our Cavaliers?

    (I remember using these on a hopped up 283 years
    ago, and they were VERY expense. So be it.)
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    not I.When i replaced mine the GM gasket was plain,the aftermarket gasket had red silicone tracking like diesel gaskets i have used.The GM gasket goes for $35 back then an aftermarket $16,GM was a ripoff.
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    But, if I ever need to replace mine, that's exactly what I want.

    There's a lot of misinformation about this type of
    headgasket.

    No, they don't have to be "o-ringed" if the engine
    is stock and run on pump gas.

    Yes, they are reusable.

    Yes, they have to be re-torqued a time or two after installation.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    The biggest problem, they are expensive and hard
    to find anymore.
  • droundsdrounds Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 1998 Cavalier LS. It didn't come with an owners manual. Someone please tell me how to set the clock time. There is nothing on the dash that indicates clock settings.
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    "Press and hold the 'HR' or 'MIN' arrow for 2 seconds.

    Then press the 'HR' arrow until the correct hour
    appears.

    Press and hold the 'MIN' arrow until the correct minute appears.

    The clock may be set with the ignition on or off."
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    And they have a look-up for your nearest dealer:

    scegaskets.com
  • n_vanexel31n_vanexel31 Member Posts: 6
    I have just bought a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier LS Coupe. I am worried about it rusting in the winter and the paint chipping off. One of my friends has a 2003 LS and he told me that the Cavaliers have a 10 year warranty on the paint job. I was just wondering if that was true. If anyone knows I would appreciate it if you would give your input.
  • dindakdindak Member Posts: 6,632
    No such thing as a 10 year warranty on paint. Corrosion warranty could very well be 5-6 years though. Check your owners manual, should be in there.
  • hoyahenryhoyahenry Member Posts: 399
    There may be a 10 year no rust perforation warranty, but even that seems unlikely. I'd think it to be 5. The answer will be in the fine manual / warranty brochure in the glove compartment.
  • jdevonjdevon Member Posts: 2
    My wife and I got a 2003 LS last March, and since then are now just shy of 10,000 miles. All we can do is praise the car! Good gas milage, solid structure, great handling, good acceleration, etc. My personal best in gas milage is 37 miles per gallon. I'm excited to try some of the after market goodies at rksport.com (GM certified).
  • 02cavalier02cavalier Member Posts: 20
    Just checked the mileage and it got 36 mpg. The car never gets less than 30mpg. with 2.2 pushrod engine and five speed. Best mileage ever was 39. So far no problems whatsoever. Goes really well in the snow.
  • n_vanexel31n_vanexel31 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 Cavalier and I don't have an owners manual for it yet. I want to buy some xenon blue bulbs for my headlights but I am not sure if they are 9005's or 9006's. If someone could tell me I would really appreciate it.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    Changed oil but not filter (I had to use a lube shop, and didn't want them fussing with the filter, although I did buy an AC Delco and took it with me). Used 5-20 "conventional" oil. Will report on any performance differences over stock oil.

    Will replace Eibach ProKit Springs added 800 miles ago with stock springs. Ride was too harsh. (I do like the lowered look, though.)

    Will replace factory "base" valved shocks with KYB GR2's (which are valved like the LS Sport or Z24 shocks).

    Getting at least 33 mpg on daily commute. No long haul experience to report yet, though the higher average speeds of interstate runs seems to drop mileage in most cars I have driven by 3-6 mpg.
  • n_vanexel31n_vanexel31 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier. It's Millenium Yellow with the ground effects and spoiler. I love the car so far but there is one problem with it. I got the LS Coupe and not the LS Sport so I have the original 2.2 and not the ecotech so there is not alot of HP, at all. I was wondering if anybody could tell me what I can do to increase the HP for the original 2.2.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    You can either find a "cold air intake" which gives the most pop, or just add a K&N filter (check Autozone or Pep Boys, sometimes they are a stock item).

    Also a better flowing muffler. I tried Magnaflow, but too loud. The inexpensive IMCO Turbo Muffler my shop had did the trick - a little louder, but workable.

    Best trick, though, is to be patient, the engines tend to open up better after 3-5,000 miles.

    Also keep in mind that the original 2.2, though not "rated" 130 HP like the stock Dodge Neon engine, displaces 200 cc more and always had a lot of low end torque.

    BTW, all this assumes you have a stick. If you have an auto - imo they are all cursed, you need 30 more hp to compensate for an auto in almost any small car.
  • isseyvooisseyvoo Member Posts: 121
    I have a '92 Cav. (bought new) with 103K on the clock. Had the first head gasket replaced at 50K mi. For the last two years, I have occasionally smelled coolant when exiting the car. (Only in winter, and only when parked in the garage.) Every time I take the car in for an oil change, they need to add coolant. There are no hose leaks, no foam on dipstick, no puddling under car. Where is my coolant going??? I asked the dealer to check it out 2 winters ago, and they claim nothing is amiss. However, I have a sneaky suspicion that my head gasket is leaking again, dripping small amounts of coolant down the front of the engine block where the heat vaporizes it, just like it did back at 55k mi. Does this sound correct? Is it worth fixing, or can I limp along like this indefinitely?
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    I'd recommend doing a cheap oil analysis to see if you have coolant in the oil. If you do, I'd sell the car! Or fix the headgasket. Coolant in the oil is probably no good for the engines moving parts.

    If you have no coolant in the oil, and it is just exiting the way you describe, I'd first try one of those cooling system additives that is supposed to seal small leaks. A friend tried this years ago, and although it sounds both mickey mouse and too good to be true, the stuff worked! (Bar's?) At least if the coolant isn't making it's way into the engine, it's hard to see how the additive can really hurt.

    Good luck!
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    Am wanting to start hauling an 800# motorcycle
    behind my 2002 Cavalier (2.2L push rod engine and
    4 speed automatic).

    People, like at U-Haul say, "No problem". Well,
    they want to rent me trailers. So, I need some
    "actual" advice from Cavalier owners.

    Am I asking too much of a Cavalier ?

    Does anyone know the lightest trailer for carrying only one motorcycle ?

    U-Haul did say they can install a permanent hitch
    that bolts to the underside of the body
    platform. Their hitches are usually good. Does
    anyone already use theirs on a Cavalier ?

    Thanks !!
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    recommends towing with the 2.4 only,you are on your own towing with a 2.2.
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    Isn't this the same engine as in many of the
    S-10 Sonoma pickups ?

    Are the pickups restricted ?

    If not, I'm beginning to wonder if the rear
    body of the Cavalier is not structurally
    sound for towing with ANY engine ?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    00 Cav 2.2 and a 99 Sonoma with a 2.2,the Sonoma is rated 3200 lb tow rating.The Cav has a 3.63 axle ratio the Sonoma 4.10.My Cav owners handbook states don't tow with a 2.2 but you can with the 2.4,I think the 2.4 rating is 1000 lb going by memory.
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    Thanks, Joe...

    Gearing has a LOT to do with towing...

    Thanks again...
  • 02cavalier02cavalier Member Posts: 20
    May be the intake manifold gasket. GM had a recall on these in the early '90s. If you are fixing it yourself, this is a straightforward job, but check with the dealer on the recall first. I would try this before doing the head gasket again.
  • hoyahenryhoyahenry Member Posts: 399
    97 2.2 LS. Speed 25mph and slowing for upcoming turn/stop sign. Engine temp is up to 195 on the gauge - normal operating temperature. Tach dives from 12-1500 down to 500 RPM. Electrical systems dim. Just before the impending stall RPMs jump back to 1200 or so. This oscillation continues until stopped, where steady idle is achieved, or...

    put the car in neutral. At that point, idle does not fluctuate. This only happens in gear, in motion, no throttle, city speeds.

    Car is otherwise drivable.

    Thoughts?
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    A late Cavalier is rated for towing at 1,500 #.

    The hitches that I've seen bolt to the spare tire
    wheel well under the car. (Not a sturdy way.)

    BUT, you can weld more flat metal to one of those
    hitches.

    Then WELD the hitch to the wheel well and ALSO the
    body floor pan.

    Rough guess is this would bring the towing capacity from 1,500 # to around 2,000 #.

    Happy welding my new Draw Tite hitch. Looks like
    it will be a WINNER.
  • bett1ebett1e Member Posts: 16
    I have a '92 Cav. (bought new) with 103K on the clock. Had the first head gasket replaced at 50K mi. For the last two years, I have occasionally smelled coolant when exiting the car. (Only in winter, and only when parked in the garage.) Every time I take the car in for an oil change, they need to add coolant. There are no hose leaks, no foam on dipstick, no puddling under car. Where is my coolant going??? I asked the dealer to check it out 2 winters ago, and they claim nothing is amiss. However, I have a sneaky suspicion that my head gasket is leaking again, dripping small amounts of coolant down the front of the engine block where the heat vaporizes it, just like it did back at 55k mi. Does this sound correct? Is it worth fixing, or can I limp along like this indefinitely?
    ___
    I typed a long post and it doesn't show up. I purchased a 1993 in March of 1993. I sold it this year. Please feel free to email me regarding the head gasket issues and coolant issues. As a Cavalier owner, I am quite familiar with these issues:

    Bett1e at yahoo dot com
    (that's a ONE and not an "L")
  • bett1ebett1e Member Posts: 16
    ORINAL POST: Well, I'm laboring over the decision of whether or not to sink a bit of money into ole semi-reliable, or whether to say goodbye after 11 years. My '92 Cav, bought new, now has 102K on it, doesn't burn any oil, runs like a top, but I think will soon need its 1st new exhaust, a set of new tires, and possibly front end work, since I hear an occasional strange sound when turning at low speeds. Not to mention that coolant seems to disappear for the last couple years (to no obvious place - no puddling, no foam on dipstick, no "white smoke" out the tailpipe). I'm flip-flopping on whether or not to keep the car. It's a so-so car at best, but I'm sentimentally attached. Advice? I feel like I'd be euthanizing an elderly pet if I were to junk it. ORINGINAL POST ENDS

    ___
    Okay, I will try this again. I bought my FIRST car in March of 1993. It was a 1993 Cavalier. The only problems from 1993-1995 was a cassette tape got caught and there was a recall on something. In about 1995, the temperature gauge broke. From that year on, either the temperature gauge was breaking, the coolant was missing or some hose had a hole in it. From 1995 to about 2000, I was actually driving around with coolant because my car never had coolant.

    During the years from 1999-2003, the car's brakes failed, the head gaskets had to be replaced, the ignition switch had to be replaced, the water pump, alternators (too many times to count), about 3 batteries (the alternators and batteries were under warranty though), various other modules and parts I have never heard of.

    From 1999-2003, I would say I spent about $3,000.00 at most on the car. I was attached to the car and didn't want to let it go. I decided to keep it. THEN, in November of 2003, the issues started again, the temperature gauge was in the "HOT" area, the heater core needed to be replaced, the brakes started to shimmy.

    I couldn't take it anymore and bought another car. When you have a Cavalier (built by the disgruntled or lazy employee), you get double whammied. The issues are frequent but inexpensive. Expensive but infrequent. In other words, you just never know with this vehicle. With other cars, you know whether the car will not work or not. With my Cavalier, I wasn't sure if the repair would be the last for that year or only the beginning for that year.

    For me, the decision came to buy anothe vehicle when I no longer felt I could trust the vehicle on long trips. In my view, one should never have to rent a car if they have a car that has been taken care of properly. I was taking care of my car yet I had gotten to the point where I didn't want to drive it for trips longer than 1 hour. If you feel this way as well, I would go ahead and sell the car. The best time to buy a car is when you don't NEED one.
  • caesarslegioncaesarslegion Member Posts: 109
    I dont own a chevy cavalier but I do have a small 1993 tracer with over 200k miles on it. If it makes you feel any better I too smell engine coolant when I exit the car. I notice it more in the summer time to tell you the truth. I also have the same problem. Sink money into the beast or trade in for something new. I plan on getting the new chevy aveo and also keeping the tracer as my winter rat/work car. It has its quirks and also needs a new muffler, brakes, tune up. Engine and transmission are fine so I cant see getting rid of it. Im also attached to it. My advise is to see if the head gasket is really the problem. It could be a bad hose or small leak. Run the thing into the ground or till it blows up. You'll get nothing on trade in.
  • chispaschispas Member Posts: 94
    The cars involved, from the 1998-2001 model years, are certain Chevrolet Cavaliers and Pontiac Sunfires built between March 1997 and April 2001, GM said in a statement."

    http://biz.yahoo.com/rb/040206/autos_gm_3.html
  • 02cavalier02cavalier Member Posts: 20
    The front end noise is probably the sway bar end links. There is a TSB on this that I read some time ago. I had a '93 Cav and had some coolant loss issues too. Had to replace the upper hose. It had a pinhole leak in it so small that it was undetectable until the hole gradually got bigger. Check for the intake manifold gasket problem also or possible head gasket. As far as alternators are concerned, get the best quality battery you can afford and the alternator problems will go away. What happens is that the cooling fan (which runs anytime the A/C or defrost is on) draws a lot of amps and puts a drain on the system. Later models resolved this problem with the upgraded Delphi alternator. Cheap or weak batteries will kill an alternator. It is best to get quality rebuilt (ACDelco) alternators also. I think Advance Auto carries them for around $100. I use Deka batteries from Carquest Auto Parts with good results. Tires are cheap for this car at Sam's or Wally's and the exhaust problem may only be the muffler. I would say to definitely keep the car as you don't really have any major problems with it. It would also be a good second car or good for a teenager to drive back and forth to school in. Hope this helps and have a nice day:)
  • dezarndezarn Member Posts: 1
    I have just bought a 2002 automatic chevrolet cavalier sedan, no later than a week of having it, it seems to have gotten weaker. When you take off, it takes longer than normal to change gears. In 2nd gear (automatic) it sticks so long it starts to roar, I get worried it might blow up. I'm a previous owner of a 4 cylinder, so I know what kind of power to expect.
    Is this normal or is there something wrong?
    Thanks
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