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Chevrolet Cavalier

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Comments

  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    :P

    Meade
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    :shades:
  • gmoudygmoudy Member Posts: 67
    I own a 1998 Z24 and when the weather is warm, I have a squeaking noise from the front end when I go over bumps. Has anyone else had this problem and what might be the prolem? I have had the front struts replaced, but that did not get rid of the problem. Any help would be appreciated!!
  • ck1999ck1999 Member Posts: 1
    gosh I HATE that. My 97 Cavalier RS does that same thing, has for years! I don't know what it is, technicians aren't sure either. I don't think it is anything to worry about, but try explaining that to prospective buyers. (As I have to do now that I am trying to sell it). Sorry I don't have an answer, just wanted to share the frustration. You are not alone! Good luck...
  • tiger439tiger439 Member Posts: 3
    my son just bought a 96 cavalier Z22. He's trying..(we are) to install and after market tachometer but we don't know where to connect the tach signal wire. there is 3 connector on the distributor ? Need Help. it's a 2.2 litre engine
    thanks :blush:
  • gmoudygmoudy Member Posts: 67
    "I own a 1998 Z24 and when the weather is warm, I have a squeaking noise from the front end when I go over bumps. Has anyone else had this problem and what might be the prolem? I have had the front struts replaced, but that did not get rid of the problem. Any help would be appreciated!!"

    Other than ck1999 informing me he has the same problem, is there anyone out there that might have a solution to this problem? You have a couple of prople out here looking for a solution. Thanks!!! :confuse:
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    When the squeaking is most noticeable, take your car to an independent shop that does lubrication jobs. Ask them if a lube job will eliminate your squeaking and see what they say. They may point out some other solution other than merely lubrication. Worth a try anyway.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    There are some interesting comments on this subject at

    http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/24/50/

    Scroll down to the third from last paragraph
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Easy fix. Go to your friendly neighborhood auto parts store and buy a can of "White Lithium Grease." This is the same thing your Lube Job man will use, and all he will do is squirt the stuff (the can comes with a little tube like WD-40 uses) inside and all over all the moving parts of the suspension under your car (including the rubber ball joints, where your problem is most likely coming from). The stuff is very tacky, waterproof and harmless to rubber and metal, and very easy to use. It forms a coating on whatever it covers so the sqeaks won't return for a long, long time -- if they return at all. (I used it on, under and all over a 1994 Mazda B2300 pickup -- aka Ford Ranger-- which, I think, came with the "Old Ford Truck Squeak and Rattle Package" as a dealer-installed option.)

    Just slide under your car (or put it up on ramps) and give all those joints a good spray! Why pay someone a premium to do this? You'll pay about $6 for the can of grease. Just one thing -- give the underside of the car a good washing first and let it dry before doing it. That way you'll ensure you don't trap any grit in those joints when you lube them. (And, er, the Lube Job guy won't even do that for ya!)

    Meade
  • gmoudygmoudy Member Posts: 67
    Thanks for the info. Just one thing, if my ball joints are causing the problem, should I not have them replaced?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Are they worn out or do they just need lubrication?

    How many miles are on the car?

    At any rate, when you slide under the car, take a look at them. If they look cracked or split, then they probably do need replacing. But I'd try this first -- it'll be a lot cheaper. Usually you can tell when ball joints are worn out because you'll get a "clunking" noise when you go over bumps, and your steering wheel will react harshly to minor bumps in the road. If you're just getting a squeak, they probably just need to be lubed.

    Meade
  • gmoudygmoudy Member Posts: 67
    Haven't had a chance to crawl under the car. Will look at them this weekend. I have about 77,000 miles on the car. I get no clunking sound.

    Another question, this is on a 1998 Z24. Are these not supposed to be lubed by the dealer when I go in for a lube and oil change??
  • 86rsragtop86rsragtop Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I'm restoring a 1986 Cavalier RS ragtop. Has anybody of this forum done a similar model and year? I'm wondering how hard it is to find some of the exterior trim and emblems.

    I'm thinking of sending the 2.8 L engine out for rebuilding but haven't decided yet. There is a local hot rod shop that works on J-Bodies. I know the weather striping on the doors and windows cost a lot so I'll wait until I get the top replaced.

    Any advice welcomed.

    Grant
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi Grant, welcome - you might want to stop by our brand new Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification board - that might offer you just the help you're looking for.

    Good luck!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    They should be, but are you sure the oil change includes a full lube job? Unfortunately, over the years the "lube" part of the service has all but disappeared in favor of interior vacuuming and free air fresheners ...

    Meade
  • brokegtibrokegti Member Posts: 4
    If you own a 2005 cavalier, 2 or 4 door models, pop the trunk, and on the right passenger side, lift the carpet and slide your hand under there towards the passenger side of the car.

    If you feel a wet carpet mat, your car is leaking like both of my 2005 Cavaliers.

    Under the bumper skin on the passenger side, you can slide your hand under it and feel along the quarter panel, you'll find what GM calls the pressure relief valve. It is a hole in the body to allow air to escape when slamming the doors. It also helps with ventilation.
    Anyway, GM uses a plastic grid popped into that rectangle (maybe 6x8 inch) hole and the grid has 2 rubber flaps on it. The idea is air can push the flap out from inside the car, and then it covers the hole any other time.

    The idea failed :)
    Driving the car in the rain results in those rubber flaps opening, and the kicked up rain spray from that passenger rear tire just tosses water into the trunk. I had a few inches standing water in the spare tire well after a 300 mile drive in heavy rain one weekend.

    I'm not sure if only freeway driving (55mph+) is allowing enough wind to open those flaps, or if they are opened when the heater is on, or what exactly makes them open or stay open, but my 2 door does it, and my brothers 4 door does it.

    I did notice that the flaps are not supported. Normally, there is a plastic grid or skeleton over top of the flaps, to assist them in staying closed. This GM unit does not have that, and the flaps open VERY easily compared to other cars I have seen.

    I'm not sure if there is a recall or not, but there probably will be, the trunks will rust out before the warranty is up....GM won't want to pay for that, when a newly designed part can be installed instead.

    Oh, I posted here and not in Repair because it wouldn't let me, it kept saying I wasn't logged in, but I was, and was able to post in Sedans, so there you go.

    Broke
  • gmoudygmoudy Member Posts: 67
    Well, mdaffron, I tried the White Lithium Grease this weekend. The noise is still there. It is not as loud, but it is still there. Would you have any other ideas? The ball joints look good. I did not see any bushings that looked rotted. Could it possible be the rubber boots that go on the top of the springs?
  • jasper2jasper2 Member Posts: 1
    So this is where the water comes from.

    I own a 2005 Cavalier (2dr) and noticed while cleaning the trunk, only a few weeks after I bought the car, that there was some water in the bottom of the spare tire well. At the time I tought that this may have been caused by condensation, and simply wiped the water off. However, after reading your message today I checked the carpet on the right (passenger) side of the trunk and found out that the carpet is soaked with water and already starting to smell musty. I didn't notice any water anywhere esle under the carpet. There is likely water again in the spare tire well; will check it out tonight after work.

    I agree that the condition will lead to serious corrosion problem and that it is in GM advantage to remediate the situation as soon as possible. Particularly where I live where road salt is used up to five months per year. I will report the finding to the dealer as soon as possible and try to get this problem fix. The carpet remaining wet could also result in the formation of mold and mildew, which could also become a health issue.
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Is that pressure relief valve only on the passenger side?

    I have been unable to find anything like what you describe, in the location mentioned, on my 2005 Cavalier Coupe. Can you describe the location any better for me?

    I have had no water show up in the trunk.
  • stephenajstephenaj Member Posts: 1
    My 95 cavalier trunk has lost the preload on the trunk lid because the rods have popped out of the brackets near the two hinges. I have tried various combinations of rod positions, but no luck so far.
    Any good suggestions? A diagram or actual photo would be excellent [ I could reply by email if necessary]
    Thanks a lot.
  • brokegtibrokegti Member Posts: 4
    As far as I can tell, yes, it is only on the passenger side.
    Here is a picture taken inside the trunk, showing the inside of the passenger rear fender area. You can see the dirty water trail leading into the spare tire well. The link is http://home.btconnect.com/i-taylor/start/Broke/chevy/147_4787s.jpg in case the img tags don't work or something.

    To find it on the outside of the car, it is under the bumper skin, right as the skin starts to curve around the back of the car, near the top of the skin. If you lay down beside the car, and stick your arm up under the skin, and feel around, you'll find the square valve and feel the 2 rubber flaps that cover it.....or should cover it anyway :D

    image

    When you open the trunk, and get to the spare tire, follow those 2 body channels to the right and you'll find the valve.

    If there wasn't a lot of rain kicked up, it might have simply been absorbed by the sound dampening material, and not collected in the spare tire well.

    Broke
  • brokegtibrokegti Member Posts: 4
    Ha, I found pics of a wrecked Cavalier (thanks Google), with damage to the area so you can see the valve.

    It is the black rectangle under the tail light corner where it wraps around, behind the back tire, the skin would normally cover the valve....

    image

    And in this pic you can almost make out the 2 rubber flaps on it....

    image

    Broke
  • jumperjumper Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Cavalier has been very reliable, with just under 100,000 miles on it. A week and a half ago, as I was driving down the interstate at 65-70mph, the car started sputtering and I watched the RPM's drop and then the car stalled. I had it towed and the best they could come up with was a clogged fuel filter (made sense to me, the way it acted.) So they replaced it, I picked it up and it was working just fine.

    Two days later, it happened again under the same circumstances. This time it started back up -- I put some fuel cleaner in it in case it was water in the lines, and it worked fine for two more days. Once again, same circumstances, but with a check engine light. So the computer told them that the #1 cylinder was misfiring. They replaced all spark plugs and wires. Once again, I picked it up and it ran just fine until the next morning. ONCE AGAIN - same thing happened.

    This time, they decided that there was a vacuum leak in the throttle body. So they replaced it. I just picked it up and drove it around. Same thing happened again. I am really, really frustrated.

    It only happens once the car has warmed up. And it has only happened on the interstate at about 65-70 mph. The RPM's drop even more when you push on the accelerator. I have a new throttle body, spark plugs, wires and fuel filter and have spent nearly $1000.00. I'm sorry that this post seems really redundant - but this has been my situation for the last 2 weeks. If anyone has seen this situation or has any ideas about what could be happening, I would appreciate the advice. Thanks. :mad:
  • z24blacknblackz24blacknblack Member Posts: 3
    I am just getting a 2002 Z24 2dr, 5spd manual, 2.4 liter. i was curious to see who else was out there with one and what kind of engine mods u got on it. im lookin to go all the way with this one and i was wonderin what mods worked and any advice before i dive under the hood. Im lookin to up the whole engine and throw
    a super charger on her. Advice or comments greatly welcomed
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Brokegti, you have certainly gone the extra mile! Thank you so much for going to the trouble to furnish those photos.

    That bumper-damaged Cavalier has to be a 2002 or older model, so that "pressure relief valve" has been in use for a long time without resulting in any TSBs.

    Without removing the trunk "carpeting" (liner), I was able to pull the top of the liner out far enough to see the grill that is part of the "pressure relief valve". I felt all around that area and found no sign of moisture (I will try this again sometime after a high-speed run through a rain storm). Reaching up from under the car I found that there is only one rubber flap on my 2005 Cavalier, about two by eight inches in size (and it is slightly slanted so that gravity will help close the flap).

    The water thrown up from the rear tire should be contained by the fender liner. And it is difficult to see how water can even reach the location of that valve. I am not trying to minimize the water damage you have obviously suffered, I am just trying to understand how it could have happened.

    What does your dealer say about this? It seems to me this should be his problem, not yours.
  • brokegtibrokegti Member Posts: 4
    Mine has the 2 flaps, slanted as well, but they are extremely easy to lift by hand. I suspect road wind is more than enough to open them.

    I wans't sure of that wrecked model year...honestly, this GM was a gift, I am a VW person, with half a dozen MK2 cars (1985-1992)....they leak like a sieve, but I know why, and the problem is easily corrected. :shades:

    I thought the rooster tails would be contained by the plastic liner as well, but I simply have no other explanation for the water. Nothing has been in the trunk, and no seals are damaged, or anything that would offer any reason to the wet sound dampening material.

    Checking my brothers 2005 4-door, I found the same thing. I was nearly positive it is a GM problem, but wanted to see if other folks had the same issues (so far, one other 2005 owner mentioned water in the new car trunk).

    I took the car to the dealer for the 1st oil change and mentioned the problem, asking if anyone else had reported it, and the guy commented that they hear everything, and when pressed, he said one lady closed the trunk lid on top of something laying over the seal, and it allowed water in, but nothing else had been reported.

    I don't think the rooster tail itself is being directly thrown at the valve, but if my hand can reach it, water is going to as well. If the flaps are being held open with wind, even a light mist will eventually collect on the flaps and plastic grid, dripping down into the car. I'm guessing short trips in light rain would be OK, but the 150 mile trip (roughly) to Kentucky during the 3 hours of heavy rain was enough that I noticed the wet spot in the trunk after arriving to KY. It had gotten the sound material wet enough to soak upwards showing a dark wet spot on the carpet itself. There was a good bit of standing water in the spare tire well a few days later, when I had the car apart to replace the bumper skin and taillights.

    For now, I have sealed the flaps up with some black sealing goo tape I found laying around the body shop, I believe it is actually for sealing ducting....anyway, it was used to seal the grid into the body, and a few pieces were used to seal the flaps themselves to the grid.

    I would post a pic of this, but to be honest, it looks like garbage and very amatuer, so, no posty the pic ;)

    It does the job of keeping the wet out it seems, I dried the liner before putting the car back together and so far it is OK. I will check tonight, it is raining now, and the wife will be driving it home about 30 miles in just a few minutes.

    I wish I had a pic of the valve BEFORE the ugly seal was installed, but I didn't have the camera at the body shop that night. The next day I took it, and snapped a pic before the skin was installed.

    Really, the ugly seal was the body shop owners decision....and being he is a friend, I didn't want to say "hey, that looks terrible.". I figured the goo will be easily removed, with no harm to the paint or part, and if and when GM issues a replacement part, I can install it.

    I would have let the dealer pull it apart again to look (during the oil change trip), but I needed the car, there was no loaner for the first day service, and what are they really going to do once it is taken apart?
    Without taking them a leaking car, and showing the dirt trail leading from the valve, it is not much point in it. Me showing up with a dry car with a dirt trail LENDS itself to my theory, but it won't allow them to prove it, and without a new part, nothing would get accomplished anyway, even if they agreed.

    I will keep in contact with them, and inquire about any recalls, or new info about the part. Until then, mine is staying dry (as far as I know), and shouldn't be a problem.

    My brother is an idiot, and won't bother ever doing anything about his, so his will rot out, and he'll be fighting for the corrosion warranty :P

    I am hoping to see more 2005 owners reporting this problem, so I can look forward to a re-designed valve piece.

    Broke
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    I will keep a close watch on my "valve" and advise if anything develops.

    Your input is the sort that makes a forum useful.
  • aelmeraelmer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Cav. just bought it a few weeks ago the service and theft light
    is on I put the scanner on it and NO trouble codes came on.replace the
    computer with another one with the same numbers on it.
    Still didnt help what i dont understand is if the theft light is on it shouldnt run
    but this car starts and runs like it just came off the showroom floor.
    The only thing that was wrong with it when i got it was a dim right driving light.
    that i think could be a bad ground at the light
    Thanks for anyones help in advance Elmer
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    I was mistaken. The "pressure relief valve" on my 2005 Cavalier does have two rubber flaps, one is above the other, each is about 1 1/2" high by 8" long.

    To feel these flaps you must run your hand up immediately behind the bumper skin, just below the vertical body seam next to the rear turn signal.

    To check to see if any water is coming through this valve it is very easy to pull the top of the trunk liner out far enough to see the grill (part of the "pressure relief valve") and to reach down to and below the grill to check for any moisture there.
  • candiecandie Member Posts: 28
    In Sept. 2005 I bought a used '95 Cavalier with 28,031 miles on it. The car looked in excellent condition and the dealer said it was. Within an hour I had a flat, 18lbs of pressure in tires (some dealer!!!). Got new tires. I had a leak and a squeak, dealer said he fixed. Following week had to put in a new tension belt motor, change spark plugs (were original) new crank shaft pulley, replaced serpentine belt. I really thought that was it, but now this week I had to replace the compressor. I"m livid, I've put $2,100 into this car and only have put on 700 miles myself. After the compressor was done by my mechanic he test drove the car. He said only then he had major "vibration." Ends up he now wants me to replace the idler pulley, at a cost of another $250. I'm at my wit's end and at the end of my financial resources Is this normal for a 1996 Cavalier with such low mileage, or did i just get a lemon? I'm a woman and not sure if I'm being literally "raked over the coals or what." Any help would be very greatly appreciated. :cry:
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    Sorry for your problems candie. No, it is not "normal" for a Cavalier of such low mileage (or any car for that matter of such low mileage) to have any of those things go wrong IMO. Apparently the car came with no warranty of any sort?

    Whether a 1995 or a 1996 model, that mileage seems suspiciously low. I would guess that the speedometer was turned back.I am sorry that what I am saying is not any "help" to you. I would however recommend that you get a second (or even a third) opinion from a different mechanic as to the overall condition of your car before spending more on it.
  • candiecandie Member Posts: 28
    Thanks Alternator. I'm in a real bind here, I've already spent so much. Before reading your message this a.m. I took the car to the mechanic (who is the 3rd I've had look at the car btw). Note though, he fixed my compressor this past week. I picked up the car on Saturday and it was shimmying like all get out..(Felt like riding a Bronco). Note. I did not have this problem before. This a.m. he test rode it with me in it and said "I'd never return a car like this." Well, he did. I drove no more than one hour all weekend and had this problem. Now he's saying maybe I need a new exhaust system??? No, it had no warranty, but I did get a letter from the dealer that they would repair the squeak and the leak...(serpentine belt, who knows at this point in time). It's not leaking, thank goodness for something. I too was suspect of the mileage BUT, the car doesn't show any signs of wear and tear one would think would show if the mileage was more. I have to tell you that I drove a 1984 Buick Regal before this that I was the original owner of and I sold it in Dec. 04 with lliterally 62,071 miles on it. That's why I felt maybe someone else didn't drive much either and trusted. I guess you are recommending I get rid of this car, which for me will be difficult (my circumstances)...but I do thank you. I'll keep you advised of what the mechanic says today, if that's OK with you? I however am thinking the worst... :cry: :lemon:
  • candiecandie Member Posts: 28
    Hi again Alternator: I too was suspicious so today I called the dealership where the car was purchased new in 1995. (License plate frame..:) told all). They last serviced the car in 2002 and it had 21,000 miles on it, so that seems about right, that it now has 28,000+. I took the car to the mechanic this a.m. and he insisted he hadn't sent the car out like that (shimmying like a bronco ride from a rodeo)..BUT fact is, he had. I didn't drive it more than one hour this weekend and stopped because it shimmied so bad. Now his quote was "ever have the exhaust system changed?" This is the mechanic who last week put in the new compressor and then it began to shimmy. I have a feeling Alternator something funny is going on here. Obviously this car has low mileage, the interior is immaculate, no outside blemishes, and although I'd expect some work on a car 10 years old, this is ludicrous. This is the 3rd mechanic, the first one never fixed my Buick right so when I got this I had him test drive it before purchase. When immediately it still leaked I took it to another close by who repaired the car but somehow didn't notice the compressor shavings...So now I am taking it to a mechanic who came highly recommended by a neighbor and seems I am still getting the royal run around. Makes me wonder if it's not because I'm a woman going in??? I honestly don't know who to trust with this anymore. I'm really quite burned out over the entire thing. Having put just less than 700 miles on this car and so far $2,100 more into it (plus the purchase price of $3,000 plus taxes, etc.) I'm really tired of it all. Any suggestions you or anyone on this board can make would be very greatly appreciated. Obviously, I know very little about cars, but hey guys, I'm learning~~~ Candie
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    candie, I have never had any of the problems like yours on the six consecutive Cavaliers I have owned. I have done all my own maintenance over many years, but I am not a mechanic and I don't do "repair" work on my cars (but I have needed very little, lucky me I know). Hopefully someone in this forum may have had some problems similar to yours and will break in soon with some advice.

    Just to be clear: "tension belt motor" is not any part I know of. Was this described in any other way? Does "compressor" refer to the air conditioning compressor? Since "shimmying" usually refers to a shaking caused by something awry in the suspension, is the mechanic saying this is an exhaust system problem? Or is the "shimmying" actually an engine vibration?

    If the original dealership serviced the car up until 21,000 miles would it not be possible for them to take a look to see what they think could have happened in just 7,000 miles?
  • candiecandie Member Posts: 28
    Hi Alternator :) Thanks again for responding. I've been in touch with mechanics who are in total agreement with you that they have also never heard of so many problems on any Cavalier, consecutively. I have a strong feeling Alternator, I'm being ripped off. About the shimmying. This did NOT happen, not at all before this same mechanic installed the compressor. Obviously it was something he did. Yes, it was the AC compressor but I wasn't having a problem with the AC, I was told by him that the compressor was bad and that it was leaving "shavings" and if the belt broke on it I could be on the highway and lose steering, etc. This is why I had it done to the tune of $876.00. I got it home 'that day' and it shimmied. He told me when I left the shop it was shimmying and now says he didn't do it. DUH, I think he did. He has the car now and I am tempted to pull it from him and take your advice and take it to the original dealer who I don't know, but who did give me the information about the mileage when I called. The shimmying is coming from under the hood, it's as if something is lose. I do not think it's an exhaust problem, it would have happened earlier than "right after" his working on the compressor. I think we have a mechanic here who doesn't want to take responsibility for his own mistake. In the meantime it's costing me way way too much :( What I had done previously was a serpentine belt replaced; spark plugs replaced; new "tension belt motor" (is what is written down); crank shaft pulley; tires, muffler, new compressor now, etc. It would seem to me if someone was taking the car apart (as they did to put in the crank shaft, wouldn't they have seen the compressor shavings??? I realize you aren't a mechanic but thank you for jumping in trying to help. I too wish a mechanic would jump in here. The car is in the shop as I write this. They were to call me at 1:00 yesterday to advise me of whatever they now think it is, but NO call, so I'm thinking more of your advice...take it to the "dealership". This way too, if the compressor isn't installed right, I'll have my proof and be able to take some action. Thanks Alternator. You're very sweet. I'll keep you posted. :sick:
  • rorytaterorytate Member Posts: 21
    Hi, I'm new to this site/forum. And i have a request....
    I have a 1998 Cavalier 4 door sedan. I want to take the factory stereo out (i believe it's a delco) and put in an aftermarket stereo. I'm just leary of how the dash comes apart. Would someone be able to show me the diagrams or point me in the right direction to figure out to take the dash apart so I can put a new stereo in it please. :D
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    I have two answers for you

    (1)

    Go to http://www.ny-jbodies.org/

    Click on "Library" (top right of page)

    Scroll down to "Interior Enhancements"

    Click on "Audio Install Directions"

    I have done this job on several of my Cavaliers. Let me know if you don't understand something and I'll try to help.

    OR

    (2)

    A far easier solution is to access the radio by using a small rotary tool cutter to make two horizontal cuts thru the trim plate to separate the lower "U" part of the trim plate from the upper part of the trim plate, pop the lower part off carefully, and pop it back on when through. Cut slowly through the plastic because it will tend to melt. The separation betwen the upper and lower parts of the trim plate will be hardly noticeable.

    The cut should be made right along the line I have indicated by an "arrow" in the picture I had intended to add to this post.

    Edmunds FAQ says "You may post a link to a photo or insert the photo using the standard html tag for an image: image Since this is my first attempt to post a picture on a forum I don't know what part of that form stays as-is, and what part do I remove and replace with my photo's information.

    I have asked Edmunds to explain this better for me, but can anyone help me here?
  • redcelttigerredcelttiger Member Posts: 1
    hey jumper, I too have this same problem except now mine has turned into not only the sputtering and stalling at 65-70mph. When I come to a light occasionally the car also stalls slowing down. The check engine light came on again stating again misfire in the second cylinder. (this was a problem before, where i replaced wires and plugs). The fuel filter is fine, supposedly.

    I am taking the car in to a new shop for a check up I figure I'll find a mechanic eventually that will figure this out. But I do have a question for you. Check the exhaust hook up this problem started shortly after i noticed a change in the exhaust sound, and I've also notice a loss of power in the engine with this. Do you have this too?

    Also does any one have the temperature problem with their car, the gauge is actually reading incorrectly is what the mechanic tells me, but it seams that its running warmer than normal.

    I'll post what the mechanic states when he gives me his "solution."

    I hear ya though I've spent about 1200.00 trying to figure this out.

    I just want my car running good again :confuse:
  • jeamarcjeamarc Member Posts: 1
    My son hydro-planed his 2001 Cavalier into a curb and ended up busting the tire and the rim. When we replaced the tire, we had to put the spare back on because the new tire was scrubbing against the tire well. The guy who changed the tires said we probably needed to repair the control arm. I looked into the manual and it looks pretty easy. My questions are 1. Is it as simple as it looks? 2. Is there any other damage I should be looking for? It's been a while since I worked on cars, so any help is appreciated. :sick:
  • rorytaterorytate Member Posts: 21
    That is PERFECT, i couldn't of asked for a better diagram/examples.
    1 more question.
    Is it necessary to disconnect the air bag system? If so, how do i go about doing that? I just replaced a stereo in a '94 grandam, and it was pretty simple with the wiring harnesses. How ever I didn't do anything to the 1 air bag which was installed on the wheel. I did read somewhere though to disable the airbag, if i'm not not actually going to be changing wires just doing harnesses from the radio wiring to the radio, what are the odds of needing to disconnect the air bag system?
  • rorytaterorytate Member Posts: 21
    One more thing.
    Thanks!!!
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    The ny-jbodies diagram is a copy of what Crutchfield provides if you buy a radio from them to install in a 1995-2000 Cavalier. Since they say nothing about disabling the air bag I haven't done so myself.
  • rorytaterorytate Member Posts: 21
    My other 2 problems with my cav is...

    1. Basically what happens I start the car up, and i put it in drive, it kinda chugs a lil bit then it goes...It's almost like it's going to stall...

    2. Almost as soon as I goto turn the wheel the wheels kinda click (like the abs) then the ABS brake light comes on and as well as the ETS light come on at the same time. My brakes work fine. I've had them changed and they're still the same. Would it be a sensor? If so is it easily changable or does a mechanic have to do it?
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    I have no idea about your problem #2, but I can't resist suggesting for problem #1 that you pull, clean and regap your spark plugs. Just a chance this might work for you.
  • candiecandie Member Posts: 28
    If there are any mechanics out there who are reading this, PLEASE HELP. My car had a new compressor put in last week. It has has a lot of work done to it (see my previous posts above-2 of them). Now it shimmies like a Bronco (and I don't mean the Bronco vehicle). There is now a new noise (LOUD click click) from under the hood and I have no clue how to proceed. I have the car presently at another mechanics who is trying to figure out what Mechanic 1 did wrong when he installed the compressor as the vehicle didn't seem to have any more problems, but now it does. Any suggestions? I tried to take the advice of another poster but was unable to take it back to a Chevy dealer, there isn't one locally and I'd have no ride back :( If anyone has any "suspicion" of what is happening PLEASE RESPOND. Thank you very much. :lemon:

    Candie
  • themoose1themoose1 Member Posts: 2
    1993 Chevy Cavalier
    -When leaving headlights on or key in ignition, the chime does not work if you open either door.
    -When opening either door, the dome light does not work.
    -When putting gearshift to Drive, doors no longer lock and safety belt warning lamp does not light.

    Dome light and door locks will work operate manually. All fuses look fine. I can't find a mechanical switch on the door that controls the chimes if the door is left open !

    Help ! :confuse:
  • chris1987chris1987 Member Posts: 2
    you might want to think about the coil packs because if it is missing and they changed the plugs and wires it could either be just that coil pack or the ignition control module because i have a 1992 z24 cavalier with a 3100 and from my past experiences with the dis ignition systems that could very well be your problem. a coil pack for mine costs about 50 bucks and the ignition control module for me was about 150.00 it may be higher since yours is newer but try that best of luck to you dude
  • chris1987chris1987 Member Posts: 2
    im installing an after market tachometer in my 1992 z24 cavalier it has dis ignition and i do not know what wire to splice into of the ignition control module can anyone help me out or hook me up with a diagram it would be very much appreciated thanks
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    To add onto this statement...I am in a Cavalier rental right now and all I can say is that is a very scary car to ride in. It has 16K miles on it and it drives like it has 160,000 miles on it. It's cheap feeling, rattly sounding and drives terrible for a 2005 car. I would go with a 1995 Civic instead of buying this car, incentives or not.

    Seriously, what is there to like about this car except the price?
  • dontshopthewaldontshopthewal Member Posts: 49
    To each his own. Personally, I really like my 2004 Cavalier LS. It drives just as well as the Civic, Elantra, and Forenza I tested, I think. The interior quality isn't the best, but that's not a problem to me. Regarding rattles, I have hardly any. Currently, the car has about 9,000 miles.

    To tell you the truth though, the incentives were a factor of why I chose this car.
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