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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • marku1marku1 Member Posts: 11
    I have had the motor mounts replaced by the dealer under warrenty once. I have replaced them myself once and currently need to do it AGAIN! (along with the transmission mount) There is no trick that I know of to prevent them from breaking, at least the work is fairly quick and easy. Do not worry about dealer or after market quality because the parts store mounts lasted longer than both of the dealer sets.
    Good luck,
    Mark
  • michjoymichjoy Member Posts: 1
    Ok I need some help here. Not only is my speedometer not working on my 2000 mercury villager but i took it to a friend who put it on the computer and my speed sensor is bad ah duh that is why it doesnt work and a bad knock sensor. Now this is all greek to me. I have had many problems since we have bought this used 2 years ago and my warranty is up (of course) and I have no idea what to do. My gas pedal sticks, brakes have gone out on me twice and have has issues with the ABS system. I have put so much into this and I am like most people tight on cash. Anyone know what I am goin through?
  • quicklinequickline Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a used 2000 Mercury Villager and the Cruise Control does not work. I looked at it and it is definately different from any cruise control I have ever seem. All of the relays are internal and the vaccum tank is seperate from the main unit. I have been unable to find any wiring diagrams which specifically show the electrical circuits associated with the cruise control unit. Any ideas? or troubleshooting ideas. Thanks
  • quicklinequickline Member Posts: 2
    You need to find some electrical wiring diagrams specifically for your 2000 Villager. It is a different bird from previous models and has some different wiring than you would expect. Buy some heavy duty brake pads that has good heat dissipation. Also replace both front and rear brakes at the some time. Lubricate your gas pedal linkage with WD-40 both inside the vehicle and under the hood. Also check to see if the spring that returns your pedal to its normal position is broken or weak. It is located on the engine. Knock sensors do not typically fail, they just get covered with carbon. So remove the sensor and clean it. Good luck
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    Our 2002 Villager has a bad vibration upon braking. I pulled the front wheels today to take a look it. The pads have a lot of life left, and the rotors 'look' fine.
    They don't cost much, so I think I'll put some new rotors on.
    Seems rotors can't be re surfaced like they could 20 years ago.
    I see two Torx bolts on the back of the calipers.
    My question is: what is holding on the rotor?
    Do I need to remove the wheel bearing bolt?
    Any advice appreciated, I don't have a manual for the van.
  • buggles57buggles57 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a used 1999 Mercury Villager Estate. The vehicle only came with one remote control, so today I visited the local Lin. Merc. Dealer and bought a 2nd remote. The mechanic's however could not program the remote, even after several tries. What the did was put the key in and out of the ignition 6 times and then said they were to hit the unlock or lock button to program it. However after several attempts, the remote still remains unprogrammed and unusable. Is there anyone out there that might know the correct way to program this remote? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Ü
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    1) While inside the vehicle, close and lock all the doors.
    2) Insert and remove the key from the ignition at least 6 times within 10 seconds to enter the programming mode. The parking lamps will flash to indicate that the programming mode has been entered.
    3) Turn the key to the accessory position. All previous key codes will now be erased.
    4) Press any button on the remote transmitter once. The parking lamps will flash twice to acknowledge acceptance.
    5) to enter additional remote transmitters, unlock and then lock the driver side door using the master window/door lock/unlock switch.
    6) Press any button on the additional transmitters. The parking lamps will flash twice to acknowledge acceptance.
    7) Open the driver door to exit the programming mode; the parking lamps will flash twice to confirm exiting the programming mode.

    Good luck! Report back if this works.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It's been a few months since I had mine off my '99 Quest, but once you remove the Torx bolts and move the caliper out of the way (C-clamping the piston), the rotor will slip right off. Ok, it may take some gentle nudging with a mallet. You don't need to remove the wheel bearing bolt.

    Most rotors can still be turned once I think, but it may not be cost effective.

    Try a Search This Discussion in here too.

    Steve, Host
  • airporthoundairporthound Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 1997 Mercury Villager with 130,000kms but there is a problem...While driving there's a 'thump' as if I hit an invisible bump in the road..Transmission code 0745 comes up, and the 'Service Engine' light is constantly on...Please HELP!! :confuse:
  • justice114justice114 Member Posts: 2
    I have a Nissan Quest 2001 and i would like to know if i can put 17 or 18inch rims from a Maxima or Altima on it. Want to stay stock Nissan if possible.
  • jblake3jblake3 Member Posts: 2
    Went to Brakes Plus. Super helpful. My rear brakes were fine. what was broken was a rod that
    attaches to the proportioning valve that senses the weight of the load I'm carrying and adjusts rear braking accordingly. The mechanic at Mercury dealer saw that part was broken and probabily assumed I had no rear brakes.

    For $21.50 brakes plus cleaned up the brake dust, adjusted the rear brakes, and saved me $360.00.
    on the cost of parts and labor for a new proportional valve.
    Thank you brakes plus!!!

    John
  • fstavinsfstavins Member Posts: 1
    I am unable to turn the key in my 2001 Villager. Anyone else ever experience a total key paralysis?
  • sschmidsschmid Member Posts: 28
    My 93 villager oil light comes on about once a week. If I shut off the car pull over to check oil (which is fine) Oil light is off when I re start the car. My mechanic who is too busy to check it right now said it is probably oil pressure switch. My son can change it for me but where the heck is it! If any one has a haynes manual it will probably have a diagram. Any thoughts would be appreciated
  • sschmidsschmid Member Posts: 28
    I have had to replace mine twice (two different mechanics about 160 each time and now it is acting up again seem to last about 65K. Can anyone tell me how to change it myself. for a $35 part I am getting tire of paying $160 to fix it.
  • sopmansopman Member Posts: 46
    Neither one of my power adapter (cigarette light) works and I can't find the fuse. There's a fuse box next to the battery, but it wasn't in there. Does someone know where this fuse might be located?

    Sopman
  • bauerkrautbauerkraut Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 94 Villager where the tumblers in the ignition are shot. The key sometimes binds so that you can't turn it without a lot of fiddling around.

    I purchased a new lock cylinder assembly that comes with 2 keys which appears to be just the thing I need.

    Problem is I'm not sure how to remove the old one to replace it. I can easily remove the lower part of the steering column plastic housing cover, But I'm not clear on how to remove the upper part which actually surrounds the ignition. Also not sure if this even needs to be removed as there is a small notch in the housing that may allow removal of the lock cylinder.

    Can anyone provide the tip needed to remove/release the old one from the steering column? Is a special tool required?

    Thanks in advance..
  • van93van93 Member Posts: 1
    my 93 villager has a similar quirk. Caused by the starter sticking slightly past the "on" position. Try backing the key position back to "on", from "start", after you start the vehicle. In my van, the oil light is signaling the "start up" sequence, not signaling problem with oil pressure. Not a problem, once you are familiar with it, but if I lend out my car, other drivers get a scare.

    Might be related to the "key paralysis" problem reported in thread above. Might also be related to the ten pounds of keys I have dangling from the ignition...
  • jmarchjmarch Member Posts: 1
    engine races when I start in drive..not a smooth transition to the next gear...when I purchased it, I was informed that this is normal. Is it ?
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    According to the Haynes Manual, after removing the steering column cover you have to remove the the knee bolster and reinforcement panel. Then you turn the ignition key to 'on' (battery should be disconnected!) and use a drill bit or small screwdriver to push up on the retaining pin while you withdraw the lock cylinder. Be sure to catch the small spring that pops out as the cylinder is withdrawn from the housing.
    The photos in the book show this being done without the steering wheel but that may have been just to get better shots of the procedure.
    I have never done this so I can't tell you for sure it will work. But Haynes is usually right : )
    Good luck!
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    Steve, or anyone knowledgeable on the '99-'02 models, do you know if the second row captain's seats can be removed and safely replaced with a bench seat?

    More specifically, do they all have the same seat slots in the floor? Will the bench seat line up correctly?

    Any info would be GREATLY appreciated since I'm in the process of buying a Quest and I really need that 2nd row bench, but I really want all the features of the SE/SEL model.
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    Your best bet, it seems to me, is to get on autotrader.com and search for those vehicles. Try to locate a dealer who has one of each, go there and ask if they'll let you compare.

    FWIW, I've got a 2000 Estate with captain's charis, and I can tell you what the supports look like... I'm almost certain they're different from the bench -- which I haven't seen -- but they may be compatible if you can scare up a two-seater bench from another car.

    -Mathias
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    Steine, thanks for the reply.

    I have researched extensively and I begun shopping at dealerships but so far haven't found one with both models to compare side by side. These vans sell so fast in the New York metro area that by the time they post the ads online, the vehicles are gone!
    So I figured if anyone knows for sure, it could save me a lot of trouble.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I haven't seen the slots for captains chairs, but I agree with Steine that they most likely won't fit where the bench goes. The drawing in my manual isn't to scale or labeled, but the attachment points don't look to be in the same areas.

    Sopman, both cigar (hey, that's what my manual calls them ;)) outlets are 20A fuses. The front one should be fuse #6 in the cabin fuse block that has 32 terminals - the fuse block underneath and to the left of the steering wheel.

    Jmarch, doesn't sound normal to me. Search for throttle body in here just to rule that out before you investigate the tranny or idle further.

    I just did 900 miles to Reno and back to Boise and got 24 mph on one tank, less on the others (A/C and ~75 most of the way). Also rolled over 105,800 miles. I accidently put $3 worth of premium in at one station - that high test gallon and a half of gas will probably throw the whole van off-kilter!

    Steve, Host
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    Steve, thanks for the reply.

    Here is a picture of the slots for an '00 SE with captain's chairs:

    http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jreisner3/album?.dir=/d486&.src=ph&.tok=ph8akZDBobHiuuRY">

    Does it look like your bench seat would fit in there?

    Thanks for the help :)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    No, in the light of day, the slots for the second row bench don't go very close to the passenger side door - there's a big gap left there for access to the third row. I don't see any way to fit a bench into the SE made for captain's chairs absent some body work or welding new slots in the floor pan.

    (I just looked at the slots since I threw my second row bench away back in '99 :shades: ).

    Steve, Host
  • crit2crit2 Member Posts: 6
    I don't know where that other guy got the sensor for $35. He may be referring to the sensor for the anti-lock brakes. I went to 3 dealers and the part at all 3 was $147. I also called all junk yards trying to get one, but they only sell the sensor with transaxles. Actually, $160 is not real bad. I would have given someone $13 to change mine...
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    Steve and Steine,

    FYI, I was at a Nissan Dealership last night comparing two different Quests, one with captain's chairs and one with the 2nd row bench.
    I guess the guy really wanted to make a sale, since he offered to try switching it for me.

    So at my mechanic's advice I measured first (it was 27" from one latch slot to the other) and when it looked like it would fit, I helped him and lo and behold - it worked!

    He offered to sell me either one, but I told him I only wanted the SE and he's going to try to get one in for me. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!

    As far as the slots for the bench not going so close to the door, Nissan compensated for this (and in the process making them cheaper to produce both body styles - since they would only need to add 4 more additional slots in the captain's models) by making the seat posts/latches off center towards the left side of the vehicle, to allow space to walk through the seats to the back. Notably, Chrysler also adds a lift forward mechanism for their captain's seats which is useful for access to the back when the van is full. I think the Odyssey and Sienna have a slide-forward mechanism for access to the back, which would have been nice on the Quest.

    So now hopefully I'll wind up with a new van with one bench and two captain's seats to save for the future! :shades:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    lol, I'm amazed... never would have guessed that from looking at my service manual.

    I did swap seats around between two different trim lines of a Voyager and Caravan back in the late 80's so I guess I shouldn't be that surprised. I definitely don't have enough extra slots to add a captain's chair in my '99 GXE though :(.

    Nice detective work!

    Steve, Host
  • saaddssaadds Member Posts: 11
    WE have a 1998 Villager. The service engine soon light keeps coming on (and it stalls only in the early morning, when backing up). The first time, we got a tune-up. That did not help and the light came back on. We then got a throttle sensor replaced. That helped, but the van still stalls sometimes (only in the early morning, and only when backing up). The light came on. The dealer service center could not replicate the problem. When the light came on again, the dealer service center still could not replicate the problem. As we were driving to pick it up, our service rep called and said his technician mentioned that it might be in the transmission. Of course, that would be more $$$ involved, so we said forget it. They wanted $80 to turn the service engine light off, and told us that it would come back on again
    Question is......if we leave the light on and try to trade it in, are we going to see only pennies on the trade in? Would it be better to get the light turned off, and then trade it in?
  • lightnin4lightnin4 Member Posts: 2
    I have the exact problem with my 96 villager. Same exact scenarios and same exact complications. It just started a month or two ago and is getting worse. I pulled the radio during a failure and it didn't resolve. Have you found a solution?
  • sirmavericksirmaverick Member Posts: 2
    I have ALLDATA, and I won't mind submitting any paperwork for any certain repair. I notice a lot of people on here are asking for how to's. If you don't want to wait for me to reply, autozone has online repair manuals. These are almost the same one's I have in my repair database. I'm new here so please let me know if this is not allowed. Thank you. Also, Please feel free to email me.
    SirMaverick
  • fredgrfredgr Member Posts: 1
    YES. Ours has shifted hard for the entire 130,000 miles. After several trips to the dealer we finally became convinced that it is normal. We also had the first year model, and it did not shift hard. My understanding is that the newer models received a Ford transaxle with the Nissan engine, whereas the original Villagers had a fully Nissan set. The hesitation on acceleration you describe is probably carbon build-up in the intake. We had this at 110,000 miles. This can be removed by the dealer to give you a nice smooth acceleration (at least until it shifts). Unfortunately, the cleaning costs around $300.
  • mikekenney1mikekenney1 Member Posts: 4
    I have had the same problem as well.

    I have had this a few times. My van dies if I drive it for more than 30 minutes at 5000 feet at 100º or at 9000 feet and 80º. My first guess is that it a vapor lock problem but no one that I have talked to locally (Denver) has any clue about this.

    I'm thinking of replacing the fuel pump, but would like to know if it would really make any difference before I pull it out. I know it's inside the fuel tank so that has to come out first.

    Has anybody else come up with a solution to this???
  • johnnyquest2johnnyquest2 Member Posts: 3
    Looking to buy a cheap 96 Quest XE that has some mechanical problems, heres what it does, the injector nearest the firewall on the pass side is dumping gas into the cylinder and coming out onto the engine as well, of course the engine misses on that cylinder, the exhaust smells like gas and puffs out some white smoke that clears up very quickly, doesn't appear to have been overheated, no water in the oil, or oil in the water, the oil does smell like gas though.The other problem, the air box doesn't quite meet on one side where the seam is and has been like this for a while according to the owner so some air has been bypassing the filter. I'm wondering what would cause that air box the be like that and why that injector is bad, after searching i found that injector problems are rare. The outer CV boots are bad and there is a massive PS leak. It has 130K miles and they want $2000 for it, interior and body are nice. Opinions appreciated.
    Also the owner claims he got some water in the gas once that causeed the injector problem, it has been parked since then.
  • cmadigacmadiga Member Posts: 1
    my Quest runs good, I had a problem with the alternator and replaced with the new part at the Nissan dealership near me. After few hundred miles again I have a problem, my head lights and all other lights blink while engine runing, lights on.
    I checked the alternator and found that it goes up to 14.5 and down to 13.5 rate.
    I took to the dealership again asking them to check it. They want me to install new battary cables, which I have done few month ago.
    can anyone tell me what should it be......
    cmadiga
  • mikekenney1mikekenney1 Member Posts: 4
    2000 Sounds like a pretty descent deal to me despite the problems..

    I would be most concerned about the injector problem. Can you work on it before you purchase it? Two things to try. First of all, do a compression check on all cylinders. If you have good compression, everything else can be fixed fairly cheaply. The major concern here is that all that fuel dumping into that cylinder washes away the oil from the cylinder wall and the rings in that one going bad. Doing it for just a little while shouldn't hurt it, but if it's been driven that way for a while, definitely check compression.

    The second thing to try is to swap the injector with another one from another cylinder. Don't know how those rear injectors are to get out, but it's worth a try. Maybe even pick up a junk yard part just to try. Can't cost too much, I wouldn't think.

    Good luck.
  • mikekenney1mikekenney1 Member Posts: 4
    The air box problem doesn't sound like too big of a deal. Someone probably took it apart and just didn't get it back together right. Easiest fix???? Duck tape.............
  • mikekenney1mikekenney1 Member Posts: 4
    Definitely not ethical, and maybe even illegal, but you could try to remove the light bulb.
    I've even heard of people hot wiring the light to the oil pressure light. That way it comes on when the key is on, and goes off when the engine starts.

    Proceed at your own risk.
  • diecastgalorediecastgalore Member Posts: 1
    I have experienced a very similar problem for most of the 3 years I've owned my 95 Villager. Here in Nebraska, it gets very warm & humid in the summer months. In the spring, as soon as temps get over around 50 degrees, mine gets harder and harder to start cold, or after a moderate length hot soak. And in the warm humid summer temps, it will typically die and exhibit "vapor lock" symptoms if the fuel level is below 1/2 tank and the temperatures are greater than 85 degrees. I bought a new fuel pump a couple of years ago, and have never installed it because you must remove the tank to do so, and I was a little unsure about whether the FP would solve the problem. I just found a TSB that addresses this issue, it is bulletin # 962522, and it talks of an improved gerotor pump. So I may go ahead and install the darn thing-it has already cost me a starter because of the long crank times in the heat. Strange enough, I have taken several long trips in the cold months with nary a problem, but try driving across town in 95 degree weather with about a 1/4 tank-it will leave you sitting on the side of the road. I wish I could see a full copy of the TSB-the only info I have is a limited view of the TSB in an index. Anyone have access? :confuse:
  • manyamanya Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I had the same problem with my nissan sentra.
    It took me around 6 months to figure it out. Check the button on your Keyless fob.
    not from outside from inside. you will see a small switch with a miniature button it, if it pops up after you depress it then you have another problem.

    but if you cannot depress it you probably need to change that.
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    I am looking at an '02 Quest SE with 45,000 miles. The vehicle is off lease but appears to have been well maintained. Anything in particular I should look out for? Based on my cursory inspection, the only suspicious thing was the low level of coolant in the reservoir.
    Any help would be appreciated.
  • johnnyquest2johnnyquest2 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, the air box is together with all the clamps, its just warped for some reason. Unfortunantly I can't do anything to it until I buy it, the owner said he parked it the day it started all this, I believe him because with all the gas coming out, he would need to fill up every ten miles lol. Anyway, I found an injector for $50 at the auto parts.
  • outlander1outlander1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 95 Quest with the standard V6. Trying to some maintenance and am looking for the PCV location. Can anyone describe the location? I have the new valve and I know what it looks like but I can't match it to the hoses off of the valve cover. Any help would be appreciated. Best vehicle I have ever owned as far durability and reliability.
  • mjfcomjfco Member Posts: 2
    Try going to this web site, I had the same trouble and fixed it with help from this site.

    http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/
  • mjfcomjfco Member Posts: 2
  • dutchgirldutchgirl Member Posts: 1
    Help! :cry: My 2000 Quest that I purchased in April has turned out to be a major cause of grief :lemon: . The speedometer has a mind of its own which is one issue but the one I'm most concerned about is the fact that I will be driving down the interstate and it will suddenly lose power. Its not stalling and everything stays on (radio, air, etc.) but it acts as though I took my foot off the gas and it just slows way down despite the fact that I'm mashing my foot on the gas. Just before it starts to slow it chokes just a bit. I've had to limp to the shoulder when cars are coming up on me at 70 mph and it scares me to death! Once I get it to the shoulder I just put it in park, rev it up, and off I go. Everything is fine (except for the speedometer/odometer) for a few weeks and then it will do it again. I've taken it to three mechanics. Initially we were thinking its the fuel system but it isn't. We finally bought a new distributor and it was good for two months. Now its doing it again and I need to take back in but I have no idea where to bring it and I'm about broke now. Any ideas or advice???
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    Here is a shot from the Haynes manual:

    http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jreisner3/detail?.dir=/88a6&.dnm=2848.jpg&.src=ph

    It looks like it's on the back side of the engine closer to the windshield.
  • daddyizzledaddyizzle Member Posts: 11
    I bought this quest new and have put about 130k on it. It's been a good van until now. My wife said it was gutless. I thought the coil wire may be bad. I had never changed the plugs or wires on it. We had the timing belt changed at 107k. It has no coil wire, so I just replaced the plugs and wires. Problem is still there. I googled around, and couldn't find the problem. A diagnostic guy said the egr had triggered the service engine soon light. He couldn't find a problem with it and said to have the catalytic convertor checked. It tested fine. I replaced the fuel filter. I got tired of throwing money into it and took it to the "experts" at Nissan. They sat on it for 4 days and charged me $250.00+ and said they had 3 hours of shop time into it and checked to make sure the timing belt hadn't jumped. They also tested the fuel pump, and a bunch of stuff in the fuel/emmissions system, and determined that the airflow meter might be bad. They wanted 500.00 for the part and an hour and a half labor to replace it. I went down to this dealership in Fayetteville AR, and picked up the van. I put the part in myself in 10 minutes for $129.00 from O'Reillys. It did not fix the problem. I had the transmission flushed as well, since my wife insisted it was in the transmission, and I got tired of her whining about it. I just want it to run like it should. Does anyone else have this problem? It seems to idle OK and the distributor cap looks fine, but I don't know, and am going to go broke if I keep throwing expensive parts, and misdiagnosis at it.
  • jr714jr714 Member Posts: 24
    I would try the Haynes manual. It offers step by step troubleshooting at the front of the book and the chapters offer great details and diagrams. I've even brought the book to my mechanic at times, though of course with discretion.

    I've had the '93-'98 manual for years, but since I just bought a new '02 Quest, I just ordered the '93-'01 version for about $20 with shipping. If you're interested, I'll post the link.
  • bploebploe Member Posts: 1
    I think I have a similar problem with a 99 villager, every time I have new front brakes put on (which I should not need every 6 mo.), I drive away from the repair shop, a few miles down the road and at about 65 miles per hour and the rear brakes engage (I don't have my foot on the brake) and they start grabbing and shaking the car something fierce. No one can figure it out, if fact I have it in a shop right now.
    Anyone have a clue?
    Thanks
    bploe
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