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Volvo S40
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Comments
Personally, I'd be looking at a loaded C30 T5 for $25k ($27k w/nav). Anything more and it doesn't work.
I don't think hatchbacks are necessarily a problem here, its overpriced hatchbacks that don't sell. Mazda did VERY well with the P5 and now with the Mazda3 hatch, and the Civic hatch certainly never suffered. As you pointed out, MINI is also a big success. The c230, on the other hand, was a big flop. When you look at what you got for the money with the Benz, it wasn't a surprise that it flopped. Same was true of the bimmer back when that was available. People like hatches, but aren't willing to pay luxo-car prices for them.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
They are as much or more than the S40!
Which is why VW will be cutting sticker prices next year.
Yes I have - you can get up over $30K for the GLI. But don't forget you can get into a Jetta for less than $18K MSRP or spend a few bucks more and you can get a comparably equipped Jetta for less than an S40.
Even at $25k I have questions about the C30's viability.
Sub $20k prices are more in line w/ the hatchback market, excepting the Mini which is a special case.
At $30k, it will be the benz c230 all over again.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks
2. Does anyone know if anything will be different?
Thanks.
Somewhere in one of these posts was a link to the changes for 07...nothing major...mostly options stuff, but can't remember the details.
Standard Features:
. Dynamic Stability Traction Control (DSTC) standard on all variants
. T5 FWD – Automatic transmission becomes standard
. New, more premium overhead console
. Puddle lights deleted from all variants
Packages/Options:
. Aux Input and MP3 Capability added to 2.4i Select Package and T5 Audio Package
. Sirius Satellite Radio available as stand alone option on all variants (requires Select Pkg on 2.4i and Audio Pkg on T5 FWD/AWD)
. Body Styling Package added to 2.4i (Body Kit and Trunk Spoiler)
. T5 Premium Package adds Auto Dim Mirror with Compass and Homelink
. T5 FWD/AWD Convenience Package has been deleted
. Integrated Dual Booster Cushions and IAQS have been deleted as stand alone options
Colors:
. Titanium Grey added
. Flint Grey deleted">link title
Richard
Put your key into position I and press the odometer reset.
Turn you key into position II (all ON but not the Starting engine), while keep depressing the reset button. Wait for the orange (yellow) warning triangle in the combination, bellow gauges, to start flashing and release the reset button. Turn your key back to the 0 position and remove the key.
And yes, decent mechanic working on Volvos should know this procedure by heart. Change the mechanic - he does not know Volvos at all.
1. How reliable are these three vehicles comparatively?
2. How expensive are they to maintain?
Can anyone offer any other insight into these three vehicles?
Thanks.
http://autos.msn.com/research/compare/compare.aspx
Dobrovod, that will take you to an S40 T5 AWD Compare page. Pick only the 3-Series to start (it defaults to the 325xi), and then click Compare Competing Vehicles. When you get to that page, you'll be able to add the Jetta.
But meanwhile, I think you were looking for comments from folks here on one or all three of the vehicles - can anyone else add to snead_c's thoughts?
Of the 3, the BMW holds its value the best, as far as I know. VW may be considered the least reliable these days.
The 325xi, on the other hand, is about the slowest BMW car there is.
Of these 3, I think I'd have to go with the S40. If you were comparing a FWD S40, on the other hand, then I'd go for the Jetta. In either case, due to VW's reliability record and Volvo's harsh depreciation, I'd lease my choice.
Of course, if it really was me, I'd forego the AWD and get a 330.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Of the three, fully speced out, the S40 is the lowest price to buy based upon the numbers that I've been given so far. It also has more features available than the VW...notably the AWD. My last vehicle was a '95 Jetta and I loved it. VW has made notable improvements but I'm thinking for the price that the S40 might be a better deal. I'm not worried so much about depreciation since we plan to own the car for approximately 7-10 years...reliability is more important. I was impressed with my old VW (compared to the Dodge that I had previously) it was cheap to maintain, mostly just tires, brakes and oil changes.
A BMW without the "xi" is not an option. My aunt has a Mercedes C-Class and parks it in the winter. I don't plan to do that and still want to manuveur in the snow. My old VW does okay in the snow even with only FWD.
Maybe I'm being too meticulous and the final two test drives will be the deciding factor...that ruled out a Honda Civic.
Okay...how about this...Bi-Xenon lights or halogen with washers?
Would the difference between a turbocharged 4 cyclinder vs. a turbocharged 5 cyclinder vs. an inline V-6 be something that I should think about maintenance-wise and performance-wise (all getting nearly the same HP and mileage)?
the headlights are really a preference thing. Personally, I have no problem with good halogens.
As far as engine, again, its preference. Some folks like an engine without forced induction. They usually are a bit more responsive off the line. But some folks prefer the kick in the pants that a turbo might give, albeit sometimes at the expense of a bit of lag off the line. By all accounts, the 2.0T in the VW doesn't exhibit typical turbo lag. In addition, its got good power across the RPM range AND delivers good mileage. Sounds like a real nice engine.
The 2.5T in the Volvo has been around for a while now, so its a proven engine (as is the I6 in the bimmer).
AWD really isn't necessary in today's world of electronic traction devices. But, with RWD, you would need a dedicated set of snow tires to feel safe in the bad weather, so that could be an issue if you don't want to have 2 sets of wheels and tires floating around.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
A cd changer isn't worth it IMO.
First, you have to find a place for the changer, then power it, then istall the fm transmitter. An ipod transmitter is a much better idea, plus you have access to alot more songs!
Performance wise, I would think it is comparable to the 325 (perhaps a bit quicker off the line, but I suspect the 325 steering is superior). I looked at the 3 series when I was shopping and ended up going with the Volvo. From a pricing standpoint (I paid under $30K fully loaded) it was pretty hard to beat. I also plan on being a long-term owner, so the quicker depreciation didn't phase me, but I think that is a good point.
From a maintenance standpoint, I think the jury is still out on the Volvo. I've had the car for 14 months now, and have had one problem (a faulty switch in the starter that caused the security system to prevent the car from starting). That's probably par for the course with a lot of new cars these days, but frustrating nonetheless. I think the more recent 3 series BMWs have had better maintenance records than other models in the BMW lineup.
Hopefully Volvo will locate a satisfactory solution before I lose patience and replace the car and Volvos for good.
I've read a few previous post regarding the gas requirement on this car and noticed that some people were saying it required premium gas, while others (and dealers) were saying it didn't, could anyone advise what they are using?
Also, can anyone speak to the room in the backseat? I do a lot of carpooling to work and I'd prefer not hear any complaints from fellow passengers . I thought of this after the test drive so I didn't think to sit in the backseat at that time but the dimensions I've seen online seem to be pretty standard with some of the cars I've been looking at. Can anyone advise how comfortable (ample leg room, etc.) they feel the backseat is though? Thanks.
i also pick up carpoolers and no complaints...i sat in the back and it has more room than my civic and i picked up carpoolers for years in that...no complaints from carpoolers bout the s40 and if anything, the car itself seems to be a conversation starter...
Charlie :confuse:
I have always put in premium fuel and I every time I fuel up, I re-set my trip mileage. For the first couple of years, I meticulously tracked my mileage/gas efficiency with every single tank of gas but stopped when it stayed pretty constant. I seem to recall, when I was doing research way back when on whether to buy this car or not, I saw some discussion about this problem and possible causes. I have searched and nothing came up. Anyone else having this "issue"? I have about 80,000 miles and all service/tune-up's have been performed on schedule.
To note (and possibly releated) I have *twice* had to have the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor and thermostat replaced. Last time was Dec. 2005. The car would suddenly surge in RPM's to 4k-5k as if I was flooring it. I was a stoplight at a busy intersection of a highway, and if I hadn't had my foot firmly on the brake I would have shot forward, leading to my untimely demise, or at the minimum, very serious injuries. It was pretty scary. Putting it into neutral didn't have any effect. I had to shut off the engine and restart it. It took about 3-4 times of restarting the car before it would start with normal low RPM's. When I took it to the dealer, they said a faulty ECT sensor was flooding the car with gas. They replaced the sensor and thermostat kit (about $200 for everything) and the problem went away.
Also, noteworthy, the "check engine" light did NOT come on during the intersection incident. The next day, on my way home, it happened again on the highway shooting me down the highway, or then it would stop as if I was running out of gas, you know, that horrible stutter/puttering when its on its last fumes. That time the "check engine" light DID then come on. I ended up having to have it towed from the side of the highway to the dealer, which is when said prognosis of ECT was made.
I called the dealer the other day asking about my serious decrease in mileage and his response was "Is the check engine light on?" It is not. He then replied "Well, you don't have a problem. Those lights are very sensitive and if anything was wrong, or it was running rich, it would come on." Right. Thanks.
Basically, it was dismissed. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks!
Can you play MP3's burnt to a CD in a 2.4i without the upgraded sound (select package)?
Someone on another board mentioned that the capability should be in all the '07 S40's.
Is this true?
thanx.
Could we be hearing the same thing ? :confuse:
:shades:
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
There are tire companies that carry 17" snow tires.
It sounds to me like your dealership doesn't sell tires, so some place like Tire Rack would be your best bet.
(a) I drove my car at 200km/h (approx. 120 mph .. highly illegal but a time saver when driving long distances in rural areas) that is disasterous for good fuel consumption.
(b) Currently I use 95 octane Unleaded (brandname BP) and get excellent consumption results (however keep the altitude (i.e. atmospheric pressure) in mind, before you decide to change the octane number of the fuel you use).
(c) Filling the tank to max. I sometimes do smell gas fumes. Therefore I avoid that, by not filling above 49 litres. At my next service I am going to ask someone to have a look at that.
(d) What I did notice (driving my S40 now for 155000 km) The spark plugs are CRITICAL. Some of the service stations replace the plugs, with the wrong ones. If you don't service at a dealer, try to use Bosch spark plugs.
(e) If you do a lot of town riding, you must drive your car on the open road, at least at the max. legal speed limit, for about 25 miles, say. Slow driving could cause carbon deposits on engine components.
(f) Your cars tyre's / tyre pressure must be correct.
.. If you have any problems with these numbers, I can convert them to miles / U.S. gallons etc.