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Volvo S40

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Comments

  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi snead_c: Thanks for your feedback...much appreciated. I certainly agree that the Hondas, Toyotas and Mazdas have a dependability factor that can't be ignored. They generally run like Swiss watches, but other than the higher-end vehicles (Acura, Infinity and Lexus), I find them to be pretty boring, not much more exciting than a Taurus. I own or have owned three Jettas, a Passat and an Audi A4 which have been generally good vehicles, but many annoying smaller problems (ridiculously bad window mechanisms, front suspension issues, wheel bearings, coil packs, and frequent CEL issues). So..when you say that Volvo parts and service costs are high, would you say that they are WORSE than VW/Audi? What attracts me most about Volvos is their reputation for safety. Thanks again, vwdawg
  • snead_csnead_c Member Posts: 64
    I've also had 1 Acura,7 VWs,1 Volvo...lots of Subis,Hondas,Toyotas,and even a Ford LTD and Galaxy, 2 Pontiacs,a Dodge Diplomat, a Chevy Kamback,a Protege,and...I must have left something out...currently we have a 2006 S40 and 2009 Prius. I've never had a car I didn't like at the time and most were "solid"...in pricing parts for the Volvo I've watched waranty items and service costs. I'd say VW and the Volvo would be about the same with a little more parts availability for VWs.
    I look at the highway admin data when available for safety concerns.
    You seem very experienced and could probably handle typical repair issues for any purchase. Me...oil changes,etc only.
    For my daughter I purchased a Honda Accord(used..and stolen) A new Civic (wrecked) a Toyota Camry(used and traded) for a Mazda Protege. After 100,000miles she purchased a new Civic and loves it.
    I drive the Volvo for the awd aspect since we live in the mountains and it's a solid feeling comfortable car to drive (with 23MPG overall)...more so than our Prius.
    I purchased the Prius for my wife last November...we have 19,000+ miles on it and love it. gas milage can run from 40 to 55 MPG and it has minimal service need and it's a Toyota. The hybrid battery should exceed 180,000 miles and about all I need to do is change the oil every 5000 miles and drop in an air filter now and then and it has very good safety ratings.
    Seriously, if you haven't driven one check out the 2010. I 'll bet you'll be very surprised.
    Nice chatting with another "car crazy" person. :D
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi snead_c: Thanks for your thorough overview and commentary on all of these vehicles. It sounds like your experience with the '06 S40 has been reasonably good....I might explore the S40 or V40 in the near future, although with two recent college grads and my youngest daughter still in private high school, I'm probably going to have to restrict my options to 2002 or older, with lower mileage if I can find one. I bought an ancient (1995) Mazda 626 V6 for my oldest daughter three years ago, and it just keeps rolling along at 140,000 miles. I have also owned several other Mazdas along the way, and have concluded that they are just as dependable as the Hondas and Toyotas, but the prices aren't quite as overinflated. I am aware of the raves on the new Prius, and will probably purchase one in the future, but the budget won't support a $28-30,000 rig right now. Have an excellent day. vwdawg
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi All!

    I am considering purchasing a new Volvo 2010 - S40 with 2.5 / inline 5 cylinder engine and a 5 speed automatic transmission.

    The vehicle will have the following options:

    1.) Power Glass Moonroof.
    2.) Power Passenger Seat.
    3.) Keyless Drive Function.
    4.) Heated Front Seats.

    I am looking at the reviews on Volvo's, and I am seeing that there are some issues with the S40 vehicles. --- Some of these vehicles have electrical, A/C, brake and transmission issues.

    Are there any owners out there who could put some light on this issue! ----I do not want to purchase a vehicle that has a potential problem! ----- I do not want to purchase a "dog!"

    Some of the other vehicles that I am considering are:

    1.) Toyota Rav4
    2.) Honda CRV
    3.) Hyundai Sonata
    4.) Ford Fusion
    5.) Mercury Milan
    6.) Toyota Camry
    7.) Chevrolet Malibu

    Best regards! ------------ Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • blumsteinblumstein Member Posts: 38
    My wife has a similar vehicle, but 2007. After 35,000 miles the only problem encountered was that the battery died about 2 weeks ago. It was easily replaced, of course.

    The Volvo has a refined feel to it: the other cars you list do not. By refined, I mean that all the controls (steering, brakes, etc) seem smoother, made to tighter tolerances. Test drive one and pay attention to that feeling and you'll feel the difference.
    Paul
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Paul:

    Thank you for the posting! ----- I want to be VERY careful about making this purchase!

    Best regards. ------------ Dwayne :shades: ;)
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I agree, my '07 T5 has been great, I'm only at 22k miles. The T5 motor can be thrifty on fuel if you want it to be, but it is fun to run it through its paces too. I have 8 months left on my lease and am considering another one, probably the AWD version though.

    -Brian
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning Brian:

    Thank you for your posting on this subject. ------ How often does Volvo require you to change the engine oil? ----- I presently have a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE V6 and Toyota recommends 5,000 mile oil and filter changes. ------ (I make it a point to do it every 2,500 miles, because my vehicle is my office, and engine sludge can be an issue on some vehicles!) ------ What does the dealer charge for an oil & filter service. ----- The Toyota dealer charges $30.000 + tax & EPA charges. ------- I use the dealer because I want all my maintenance records in one location should I need service work under the extended warranty. ------ Do you have an extended warranty on your vehicle? ---- If the answer to this question is "yes," ----what was the cost of that warranty? --------- Thank you in advance for your help.

    Best regards. ------------ Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • blumsteinblumstein Member Posts: 38
    I'm not Brian, but for one point of reference: y wife's S40 I4 is required to be changed every 7500 miles! As I know something about oil deterioration (which is really additive deterioration), it scared me. A technician told me that they get away with it because of the large sump. It takes 7 quarts. Though they don't call for it, I use synthetic as insurance.
    Paul
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Yep, the previous poster answered the mileage interval I use as well. There is a MAINT REQD message that appears when it is time to get the oil changed. I do not have a maintenance package or extended warranty. However, the new Volvo's come with included maintenance for 3 years with the Safe & Sound package. So, your scheduled maintenance is already paid for.

    -Brian
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi Brian & Paul:

    I do not think that I will let the oil remain in the engine for 7500 miles. ------ I understand that the oil and filter service is pre-paid for the first 3 years or 36,000 miles, so I will supplement these services by changing my oil and filter at 3750 miles between the pre-paid oil & filter service. ---- (I will use the selling dealer for this service so I will be getting a Volvo filter and the correct oil.) ----- Most likely, I will use "DINO OIL" since synthetic is not required. (I would rather have clean oil every 3750 miles using "Dino Oil" than have synthetic oil running for 7500 miles.

    Some of the earlier S40 vehicles seem to have electrical and transmission issues. ----- Have these problems been corrected for the 2009 / 2010 models? Any input on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

    Best regards. ---------------- Dwayne :shades: ;):)
  • snead_csnead_c Member Posts: 64
    Mine is a 2006 T5 with all otions incl awd and 54000 miles on it. Only problems have been a loose electrical connection in the passenger door and a piece of rubber in the sunroof tearing twice. It's a solid feeling car and gives excellent mpg on the hiway..30+ and ok mpg miixed driving at 22 (high test prices). Paint holds up extra well. Power seat adjustments make for comfortable driving. I change my own oil and filter every 4500-5000 miles with Mobil 1 5w 30. The cabin filter change is not easy and I've used the dealer at a $125 cost.
    We also own a 2009 Prius that's great in every respect except seating...Toyota reliability, very low maintenance costs, and 48+ mpg avg. on regular. Seats are supposed to be better in 2010.
    :) Good luck
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Would seem that you'd be throwing money away doing the oil change more often than necessary, though I am certain your dealer wouldn't mind changing the oil more often for you on your dime. You shouldn't worry about going 7500 miles on the motor oil, it will be fine....

    -Brian
  • skr2skr2 Member Posts: 32
    2009 S40 or 2010 S40 any suggestions for buying prices would be highly appreciated. I understand that the 2010 comes with the 5 years 60K warranty and maintenance...
    Thanks in advance
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,952
    I have pretty severe spinal issues and was set to buy a S40 in early July but was turned off by the front seat...terrible actually and I tried a 2006, 2007, 2008 & 2009 just to be sure. Very disappointed actually...guess the great seats are on the other models in the line-up. To be honest, the power drivers seat in the Sonata was hands down so much better. Finally solved my seating issues by putting my Relax The Back cushion in my Civic and it's been fantastic.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • 51paul51paul Member Posts: 3
    How did they fix the loose wire connection in the door? The power to my door went out then came back a day later. I'd like to do something before it goes out again. Thanks.
  • snead_csnead_c Member Posts: 64
    A black rubber connector visible in the hinge when you open the front door. The tech just pushed the pieces together. I hope your solution is that simple.
  • spdwy33spdwy33 Member Posts: 21
    We just took delivery of a brand new Volvo turbo tonight - a first for us. Ran across something interesting in the owner's manual that the turbo should be allowed to spin down 'a short time' before you turn the engine off. The dealer didn't say anything about that, so I'm a little confused.

    Most of the info online talks about 'hard driving'; so I can understand the cool down period. But most of our driving will be around town.

    Any advise?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    All turbos are the same and work this way. It does have to do with hard driving, but the definition of what is hard driving is where it is grey. Turbos get very very hot and use oil to lubricate and air to cool. If you turn off a turbo car when the turbo is at high temperature, the oil that is inside will cook and potentially gunk up the turbo.

    To avoid this, you want to make sure the oil continues flowing until the turbo cools down a bit. This can either be done sitting still idling or at low rpms for a few final minutes of driving. If you live in a development, for instance, the few minutes of low speed/low rpm driving through your local streets to your house will suffice. If, however, you live on a high speed road or very near a high speed road, you don't want to be driving 65 mph right up to your driveway, park and turn it off.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • susan_spencersusan_spencer Member Posts: 8
    Looking at 2005-06 S40's and following this discussion. Decided to check Service Bulletins and 2006 had approx. 35 and 2007 around 12. Many electrical, air bag issues, etc. Realize all cars have service bulletins however looked a bit excessive to me. If I purchased an 05 or 06 certified vehicle in 2010, would I expect that all applicable recalls and service bulletins would have been completed and all clear on these issues? Or am I better off taking my dollars elsewhere for a reliable and safe vehicle at same pricepoint. Was hoping that was S40! Feedback from those who bought 2005/06 S40's appreciated. Looking for reliable, "smaller" mid-size with really good front/side stats and resale.Looking to make decision. Comments on S40 or alternate appreciated! :)
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    If buying certified, yes, all recalls should have been performed. However, it is easy enough to check in the service department. They can pull up a full service history on the car and print it out for you.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • snead_csnead_c Member Posts: 64
    I agree with gbrozen. Also, fwiw, the only problems I've had are an ignition switch replaced out of warranty ($300), door window switch replaced in warranty, and a rubber vanity strip on the sun roof under warranty. It's a very good car but for similar $ I'd look at new or close to new Civic, Corolla, or Fit...you'd get fairly safe cars, warranty and Honda-Toyota reliability. :)
  • susan_spencersusan_spencer Member Posts: 8
    Appreciate feedback! Sounds like you'd both recommend S40. Don't know what years you own but perhaps you can tell me if pretty normal to have 12 or 20 bulletins in a given year. Does that mean that 05/06 owners were at dealer that many times making these repairs? Perhaps some completed prior to taking ownership?

    Test drove Civic- which feels too small as does the Fit. Corolla is possibility but concerned with drive with EPS-electric power steering. Overall more comfortable in small mid-sized sedan that rides higher-more neutral to ground. Want safety and reliability for sure but some comfort is also nice!

    Perhaps certified 05/06 S40 could be looked at as low risk purchase. If I get a great price and drive for 2-4 years, I imagine I would not be in too bad of a position on resale?

    Your feedback is appreciated!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) are very different from Recalls. A TSB is merely a message to the dealers stating something like "if you hear of this problem, we have a solution and here it is." A recall, on the other hand, is when notices go to all owners to let them know something is wrong and it should be fixed.

    You could have 100 TSBs for a particular model car, but the owner may only experience 5 of those or even none of those.

    If I recall correctly, our Honda had something like 40 TSBs.

    I don't own an S40, but I've owned a couple of volvos and love them.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,952
    This is essentially the same car...just more reliable. Wife tried both but hated the rear headrests...blocked vision, so she went with the 3s model. More economical 4 cylinder engine and a silky smooth tranny. I also looked to trade my Civic last July for an S40 and was very unimpressed. Having severe spinal issues figured the Volvo seats would be a better fit for me but the S40 seats were nothing special...as good as my Civic's. All the pre-owned cars had "issues" and the $ they wanted was just plain stupid.
    Truly feel the Mazda 3 is a better application of this car with far less "issues" or recalls to worry about. The Hyundai Sonata power seats were far better than the S40's after driving both back to back. It's your $, but I for one want a drama free ride...and the S40 ain't it. Even my mechanic said "stay away" as parts are more expensive and the reliability factor just isn't there for this premium econo car.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • snead_csnead_c Member Posts: 64
    Mine is 2006 T5 awd
    Likes : awd, solid feel, paint finish, 30+ highway mpg, safety reputation, seat comfort :)
    Dislikes: high test gas requirement, expensive and limited available service, difficult and expensive cabin air filter replacement :(
    I just read sandman's reply and I agree on the Mazda option :D
  • bereal22bereal22 Member Posts: 1
    I wanted to know if any one knows if the heads are alunminum on a 2000 Volvo s40?
  • belle7478belle7478 Member Posts: 6
    edited March 2010
    I own a 2000 S40 and am considering the new one (Standard, not T5). I understand it is totally different from mine. I find the seats on mine extermely uncomfortable on longer drives ( 1+ hours). And the brakes, while okay, seem a little less responsive than I'd like, but that may be because I've previously had manual transmissions.

    I'd appreciate feedback from owners on these issues -- or any other likes and dislikes you have on the car. Also any thoughts on the T-Tec vs leather.

    Thank you so much!!
  • snead_csnead_c Member Posts: 64
    I own a 2006 T5 that has leather seats. I believe they are similar to 2010 (not sure). Brakes are excellent and probably similar across the line. Seating is typically euro firm and is a very individual thing. I like mine especially since I have lots of possible adjustments. I've seen messagers not care for the feel which is very different from Japanese soft or US couch like.. Be sure to schedule a long test ride before your final decision to purchase. Good luck. :)
  • belle7478belle7478 Member Posts: 6
    Thank you for taking the time, snead. Very helpful.
  • davidp158davidp158 Member Posts: 16
    I also have a 2006 S40 T5 with leather seats. Overall the car is very nice, but I absolutely loath the leather seats. The side bolsters are too narrow, very firm and extremely uncomfortable on long drives. The right leg bolster restricts my leg position, which interferes with comfortable access to the gas pedal. I'm not a big guy (5'7", 150 lbs.), and even though the S40 is a compact car, maybe I'm just not the "right size" for these seats. If you plan on taking long drives, I suggest that you rent a S40 for a few days to evaluate the seats.
  • belle7478belle7478 Member Posts: 6
    Thank you, David. We are about the same height and it is my right leg - actually thigh - that starts to hurt first, And then my rear. :) I find myself lifting myself out of my seat at a toll booth for a break! I wonder if the t-tec seats would make a difference vs the harder leather. I have seen a couple of reviews that mention seat comfort as a plus on this car. Edmunds recommends the t-tec over the leather.
  • davidp158davidp158 Member Posts: 16
    belle7478 - I think the size and design of the S40 seats, combined with the gas pedal position are an ergonomic problem for me. If the bolsters on the fabric (t-tec?) seats are softer, that would probably help somewhat. When test driving Volvos, we did drive a few with the fabric seats, and thought they were fine. We probably went with leather thinking they were "better." BTW, the heated seat option is a wonderful option that I highly recommend. I complain about the seats, but I DO enjoy that they are heated.
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,952
    I have pretty severe spinal issues and was very disappointed with the seats on the S40's I tried last July. I tried all the years, '06, '07, '08 & '09 and with the t-tech and the leather and found them not up to Volvo's legendary comfort I'd heard so much about. Maybe the upper models get the great seats but I found them lacking. Decided to just keep my '06 Civic as they felt exactly the same to my spine.

    My wife & I had a tense weekend discussing a swap...she thought I was nuts...but just couldn't justify spending the extra $ with my trade in. Still love the looks of the S40 but just couldn't do it. Hope your problems get better.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • belle7478belle7478 Member Posts: 6
    My neighbor loves her new Civic, Sandman, and really wants me to take a drive and consider one. I guess I should take a look. Thanks for the feedback on the seats, evcen though it is not what I was hopingto hear. ;)
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,952
    You should definitely try both cars back to back or as soon as you can so you remember how each seat felt. You might find the S40 seats o k for your back or you might prefer the Civic's. The point is, try them both so you don't have buyers remorse down the road. Disliking what you drive can be a painful thing as you'll always remember your wrong decision, so buy what you really want.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • oldvolvo2oldvolvo2 Member Posts: 2
    The manual/dealer says 7500 for synthetic in a 2004.5. I might put 5000/ year on my car, so I'm told at least once a year. What has been your habits concerning this?
  • belle7478belle7478 Member Posts: 6
    I drive mine even less than you and have let it go up to a year, though the dealer suggested six months. It may be my imagination, but I have the trip compute in mine and it seems like I lose a mile of two pergallon on city mileage when it goes towards a year.
  • oldvolvo2oldvolvo2 Member Posts: 2
    Wow, somebody that drives less than me. I haven't noticed a mileage issue. I drove my '87 240 for 18 years and did a change every 5000. It never needed a top off and didn't leave any in the drive. Only had 250,000 when I gave it to my daughter. I'm just not used to this once or twice a year. Would like to see it last, too.
  • sicily3sicily3 Member Posts: 2
    Have a 1998 s40t euro type am In Sicily ... they replace parts until problem go away.
    Turn key nothing, wait turn (volvo start problem) off car will start. Have valet key only no bob key. Starter has been replaced. Broken wire on immoblizer has been repaired, has been a on going problem for 12 mo. Does anyone have a idea where to start. These guys don't seem to have a clue what to ck out to find the problem. Thank you anyone for your help
  • sicily3sicily3 Member Posts: 2
    Have a 1998 s40t euro type am I Sicily ... they replace parts until problem go away.
    Turn key nothing, wait turn key off car will start. Have valet key only no bob key. Starter has been replaced. Broken wire on immoblizer has been repaired, has been a on going problem for 12 mo. Does anyone have a idea where to start. These guys don't seem to have a clue what to ck out to find the problem. Thank you anyone for your help
  • rapidrickrapidrick Member Posts: 70
    edited April 2010
    I'm addressing the comment a while back about the Mazda 3 and the Volvo "essentially" being the same car.

    Folks over at the Mazda forum will buy that drivel, not here.

    Same platform does not mean "essentially" the same car--do your homework.

    I'll agree the Mazda might be more reliable, cheaper to maintain and drive, and perfect for folks who are comfortable driving a lemming car that will allow them to see themselves coming and going. That said, I really like the look of Mazdas.

    If you want a comfortable, safe, unique, quiet euro car that will set you apart from the crowd, you'll pay more for the Volvo. If not, cheaper Japanese cars are perfect for the millions of "Consumer Reports Is Gospel and they help me justify driving a cheaper car" lemmings.

    Just my opinion, of course... :shades:
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,952
    The seats in all the 240's I test drove had seats no better than my current Civic or the wife's Mazda...only reason it's not in my garage now. I drove '06's, '07's, '08's & '09's. Definitely not worth the $ premium they charge. With all my spinal issues of late, I would've known within a few minutes if the seats were far superior...they were just the same. The Hyundai Sonata had much better seats than the S40 hands down...and I drove these cars back to back.

    Bottom line, keeping what I got and hopefully the wife will be buying a power seated car in 2011.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • mfragusmfragus Member Posts: 1
    I don't have a manual and I need to replace my headlight bulb. How do you do this?
  • belle7478belle7478 Member Posts: 6
    Go to the Volvo web site and you can view and/or download the manual as a pdf file.
  • cassandra517cassandra517 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have S40 and I'm having this problem now. Did you ever find a solution to this problem?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    Hi cassandra,
    The message you're responding to is 5 years old, so i suspect that person has fixed the vehicle or sold it by now. Since that message is pretty far back, you might have better luck posting the details of the problem you're experiencing, so that current owners might be able to help.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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  • sofienycsofienyc Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2008 V50 with 24K miles on it and want to know if anyone out there is experiencing this problem:

    Traveling no faster than 50mph on a typical NYC highway, the car floats across like a 1969 Buick with no control and bouncing from side to side. The ride is totally uncomfortable even on suburban roads out on LI. I have brought it to the dealer and of course they cannot find anything wrong. I want to get rid of this car, if I cannot get it fixed, it is dangerous and as a former V40 owner, not the norm. Any suggestions?
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    sofienyc: WHOA! This does sound dangerous, not only to yourself but to other drivers on the road. The dealer's tech appears to be either an idiot or totally incompetent...get a SECOND OPINION! In other words, FIRST seek out another dealer in your area (this should be warranty stuff), or if no results there, a qualified independent shop that knows Volvo suspensions (keep your receipt for warranty reimbursement from Volvo). It would be tragic to dump an otherwise fine vehicle just because a dealer doesn't know what's going on. Keep it, but get the right person to fix it! volvophile/vwdawg
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