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Comments
Thanks,
JAMES
I bought the car used from Hertz Car Sales, it has 25,000 miles on it. I know some of you might think that is a lot, but it is an early model 2000, build date is 9/99, so it's not too bad.
So the car still has 11k worth of factory warranty on it so that's still great. So for $11,045 I don't think I can complain.
Hertz Car Sales are great, they show you all of the invoices of all the service work that has been done to the car before you buy, so you know what has been done to the car.
I just ordered the parts for installing keyless entry on the car. Has anyone ever installed keyless entry before, if so, how difficult is it? I am assuming most of it is "plug and play" so it shouldn't be that hard, and I was told that it would come with installation instructions.
One of the cheapest ways to bump up the horsepower a bit is to insert a K&N filter. I'm debating installing one myself. Exhaust mods are a bit expensive, so I'll hold out until the original exhaust needs to be replaced.
My GT gets 24 mpg in mixed driving, which is 33%city/67% hiway. The mpg was lower the first 5K miles or so. It definitely improved after that.
Oh, another question... is it possible for me to buy new factory seat covers for the front seats? I just bought a 2000 SE1 V6 and the seats have cigarette burn holes in them, I'd like to replace them.
Last question: Is it possible to dissable the automatic headlights while the car is in "park"? The manual for my car is on order, so I can't check that yet.
Thanks,
JD
To turn off the lights while in park, engage the hand brake.
Hope this helps,
TC
JD
I don't think the monsoon system was available when I got mine(?). All I know is that the CD/equalizer head unit is a Delco product, which I'm not really a fan of. FM sensitivity is not that great. Maybe an FM diversity antennae set up would have helped.
TC
I won't be swapping out the head unit because... I don't want to lose the steering wheel audio controls! For a car this price it's a great feature. And because I drive this car like a "driver's car" I never want to take my eyes off the road ;-)
I heard a rumour once that somebody made an aftermarket unit that would work with the steering wheel controls. I have yet to find it....
Im an owner of 99' grand am who is little tired of making trips to the dealer for an oil change. I would assume the dealer would know whats best for my vehicle hence use the oil thats perfect for my baby. But what about the local shop? They are a lot closer to my house and the price is alot cheaper with the coupons they mail out. But, Im not too sure they would use quality oil and filter for the work. If they dont, does it really matter regarding the vehicle's performance and the long term effect on it? One shop that mails me coupon all the time say that they use Quacker State brand. Is it a good brand?
Thank You in advance.
If this topic was discussed previously, Id appreciate if anyone can tell me the message #
Actually, I had my seats and the foam underneathe shredded by a dumb cat. No joke! The foam was $58.00. The parts guy freaked when he looked up the seat cloth cover: $218.00. He recommended I go to a automobile upholstery shop. Lots cheaper, $110.00. Same cloth, same fit.
Regarding the oil changes. I do it myself. Rather easy to do and I use Mobile 1 5W30. I tend to put over 100 k miles on vehicles so use Mobile 1. Been using it since the late 1970s. Who knows? Maybe all the good oils offer the same degree of protection.
There is a mud plate under the car's front which is held by two finger nuts. Remove that to get to the oil filter. I think it is a PF-47, maybe a PF-44. Can't recall at the moment.
By doing this yourself, you could save a lot of labor charges and you know what product is being placed in your "baby".
But, this afternoon.............. a lady in a '85 Suburban ran a red light and crashed into the passenger side of my car. Front fender and door are toast. Wheel was spared and the car drives fine. Feels the same as before.
But, I worry about body warpage since the steering wheel is now off-centered and the hit did not occur at the wheel. The car drives straight, but that steering wheel...
So, Monday, I'll go get the police report, go to my insurance, find out if I have to wait on her insurance to get the body work done, etc., ad nausem.. grrrrrr
TC
Anyway, damage to my GrandAm SE comes to $3015.00. Includes realignment and cradle realignment.
The rental car I have been supplied with is a 3.8 L Buick. OH BOY! Been wanting to play with one of those, anyway.
Disappointment!!!!!
1) This beast has four disk brakes. Amazingly,
my GrandAm SE with its disk/drum combo can
easily outstop it.
2) Performance. This car has that 3.8 L v-6.
Makes lots of noise and roars during full-
throttle. I'll bet my 3.4 L v-6 can
out do it in a 0-70 run. There are no
real "sweet spots" in this Regal when
you accelerate at the various speeds as
there are in my GrandMa. I mean, I know
the 3.8L motor is an excellent power plant,
but it just seems crippled in this Regal
when compared to my 3.4L in the SE GrandAm.
3) Interior: cheap, CHEAP. Very dissappointing.
We GrandAm owners should be very pleased with
the fact we have NO FAKE WOOD, no plastic
panels that flex.
4) Ride: very quiet in the parking lot. Then
when you get out on the road, the entire car
shudders when you hit a nasty pot hole---more
so that what my GrandAm does.
This might be due to the tires. I recall just
how much better my GrandAm rode when I replaced
those tires.
Honestly, this car feels MUCH CHEAPER to me than my
GrandAm.
I just wish they'd give me that 3.8L v-6, let me doctor it up a bit, let me swap motors, and all will be right with the world. grinnnn
As I told you in my earlier post, my 2001 SE had vibration problems. As it turns out, I had to have new rotors and pads installed after only 45 miles. They said the rotors were "footprinted". I have no idea what that means, all I know is that now it runs fine (and brakes fine too). The dealer did tell me that they were installing alot of new rotors and pads on the 2001s. In case anyone is interested, the cargo net that comes standard on the GT version is available for only $30.00 from GM. The holes are already there and takes about 5 minutes or less to install.
According to Edmunds, the 2000 Regal LS accelerates 0-60 in 8.2 second:
http://www.edmunds.com/vehicles/2000/buick/regal/ls4drsedan38l6cyl4a.html#specs
The 2000 GA SE2 sedan with 3.4l V-6 is capable to do it almost 0.5 second faster, in 7.8 second:
http://www.edmunds.com/vehicles/2000/Pontiac/grandam/se24drsedan34l6cyl4a.html#specs
the above specs are practically the same as for the base Firebird, 0-60 in 7.7 second:
http://www.edmunds.com/vehicles/2000/pontiac/firebird/2drhatchback38l6cyl5m.html#specs
Though, a notch more upscale Buick GS accelerates in 6.7 second:
http://www.edmunds.com/vehicles/2000/buick/regal/gs4drsedan38l6cylsupercharged4a.html#specs
and, of course, no affordable priced sedan can compete with TransAm - 5.3 seconds:
http://www.edmunds.com/vehicles/2000/pontiac/firebird/transam2drhatchback57l8cyl4a.html#specs
It is very possible that the tires of the rental Regal are overinflated. This right numbers are inside the trunk lid. Probably, 30 psi - at least it is so with the 16-inch wheels.
Regarding the shudder, after driving the car this evening, I felt that the tires were definitely having a problem, though I haven't checked the pressure. Also, the car is "twitchy". Can't keep it going in a straight line. Will do a pressure check later and see if that confirms the problem.
Another criticism: the cup holders. Worst I have ever seen. Too high, too flimsy. They can't hold large cups. The GrandAm's cups under the radio area are small for canned drinks and the console larger holder is really better.
Leg room.... well if I get my front leg room just right, there is no back leg room at all. Yet the measurements claim the Regal has more leg room back there. Will admit that the backseat is more comfortable. Just that I have to make the seatback more vertical and pull the front seat up a bit to get decent knee and leg room for the back.
Some positive points. Hey, I can actually see the odometer in bright daylight! Gosh, what a concept. This has always been a sore point for me with my 1999 GrandAm---too dim during the day to see easily.
The lights are far superior. I have always had a problem with my GrandAm's high beams. Too many dead zones in our hilly areas. They have been adjusted by the dealer repeatedly and typically, are within specs. The Regal's lights reach out and touch marvelously. When going up and down curvy hills, these lights do a great job in shining up the road. Not so with my GrandAm's lights. Their focus is too tight, too much on an edge. You can go around a curve and the lights go off into a pasture somewhere while the road is bathed in darkness ahead of you.
The Regal's lights have enough peripheral light aim that the same darkened road is now illuminated.
In short, I think the Regal is a fine car, but I have even more respect for my $10k less GrandAm now. I *think* I have a problem with comparing the Regal against a similarly equipped and priced "foreign" vehicle. I think it will get blown away in many areas.
I would consider the GA if they address that in 2002.
We like the handling and acceleration of GA. The dash and sound is not better nor worse than with Malibu. Very good air condition vents: simple design and easy to aim.
On the flip side:
Had to adjust to very sensitive steering. Did not like that the steering wheel does not return in neutral position, must be turned back manually. Bad rear visibility, hard to back up. And getting to the rear seats (we have a son) was a major enterprise.
Last fall we bought a Regal GS. The car is in other league than GA. Smooth drive, convenient steering, good sound, auto-dimming mirrors, visibility like driving in aquarium. Very comfortable seats: after 7-hour drive in the Regal we tire less than after 2-hour in Malibu or GA.
Never drove Regal LS, though, and cannot compare. Know only that GS have better suspension, and a lot of other goodies, either optional or unavailable for LS.
And, of course, GS have a supercharged engine. It over accelerates easily most of sedans, and some sporty cars, for example, the V-6 Mustang and Camaro.
1. It cruises at very low rpm, about 1800. Probably will never wear-out and will be generally more reliable.
2. Very good acceleration when you need it, both at low speed and on highways. This is a safety issue: fast and easy merging in traffic, getting out of harm way, etc.
3. And simply more fun to drive for long years.
The problem is with prices. The V-6 engine itself is not so much more expensive, but it is bundled with higher end trim/options. According to Edmunds, the SE2 trim is not available in 2001 any more. The same with the twin car, Olds Alero.
The leftover 2000 GA / Alero are still available, though, and probably they are less expensive.
The question that I have is has anyone ever installed a keyless entry system? I ordered it from my local Pontiac dealer, it was $145 for the parts, and it should be in sometime this week. The parts guy said it should have instructions with it, and I'm pretty good at installing things and putting things together. However, I was just wondering if anyone could give me any installation tips. Such as...
"Is it all just 'plug and play'?"
"How long should it take to install?"
"Are there any special tools I will need?"
If anyone could help me, I would appreciate it. Also, I think I am going to order a front end cover, around $85 I think. Does anyone have one of these, are they difficult to take care of, how often do you have to clean them?
Other than those two things, I love my GA. Lots of power and is comfortable to drive.
Vocus, you are comparing a 99 bonne with a 2001 GA. First thing I think when I see that comparison is that the 99 Bonne is sporting the old bodystyle. I wouldn't want to spend that kind of money to be driving something that is already "dated" looking.
-JD
P.S. I get about 24 MPG (85% highway) with a whole lota floorin'!
-JD
I hope this was helpful to anyone considering it.
As for the repeat comments on break rotors warping...has anyone looked into aftermarket ventilated rotors?
Just my two cents.
jdexter23: Smelling oil 300 miles after an oil change is certainly not out of the question. I smell oil usually for about 2 weeks, or about 500-600 miles. It takes that long to burn off when it drips from the oil filter being removed. Why no auto shop can remove the filter without making a mess is beyond me. And I agree about the brakes. That's one of the pet peeves I have about this car. It seems like I have to stomp on the brakes to get it to stop. Last night I was on the Interstate going 65 mph when the traffic stopped suddenly in front of me. It was like I had to push the brake pedal with both feet. I may have stopped quicker if I dragged my feet on the ground in a Flintstone car to stop it. I know it's not the anti-lock system, because I didn't hit them quite hard enough to activate it. The brake pedal just doesn't seem to have any feel to it. I also get around 24 mpg, although it has been slightly less in the dead cold of winter.
I also thought the smell was coming from the PCV valve seal, since it was always oily around it. Changing that seal had no effect. I have more or less learned to live with it, and if I'm idling or going slow with the AC or heat on I switch to "max". If you want fan forced vent air only, you can't get it in "max", since the AC will run in this position if the fan is on. I was also going to try to block some of the fresh air vents with foam or something and see if I can pinpoint where it's coming from, but haven't got around to it.
I priced the Power stop rotors and the best deal I could find was about $92 each. I opted for Raybestos rotors at $45 each, made in Canada. The cheap rotors you get for $20-$25 are almost always made in South America and they are inferior in materials, won't last as long, although they work OK. I use Raybestos Brute stop pads. I haven't had brake problems on either my 99 (43,000 miles) or my daughters 95 (63,000 miles) for a long time. My daughter is real hard on the brakes, too.
By the way, if your replacing the rotors and pads on your 99 or newer GA, be careful that they don't give you the ones for the 98 or earlier car. For some reason manufacturers seem to have the same part numbers listed for 99 and later that they do for the earlier car, and they're different. 99 and later have larger rotors and different pads. Take a sample of the old parts with you and save yourself some hassle. When I bought the Raybestos rotors it finally took a call to Raybestos to get the right parts.
-JD
Is this car perfect? Nope, no car is. And if you are looking for close to perfection, then you have to spend at least twice as much for a Lexus (which is the other car I own).
All in all, the GA is pretty good transportation for the money. I'm surprised how well the car holds up with me beating on it.
I found this fascinating, YMMV.
Sometime back in the Stratus topic I explained what a piece of junk that car was with its clunky, confused tranny. The other guy got all defensive and called me old and I should retire. What a loser he is. He doesn't know what a good engine/tranny combo is.
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rotors for grand am CrossDrilled Slotted DuraStops, (or your fav brand), instead of plane jane rotors from an intrigue...
I first saw an ad for it in MT magazine... It showed the DuraStop camfer Cross Drilled and slotted rotor. It said it was available for most GM cars... So I looked at AC-Delco's homepage... And I found it... It didn't show a listing for many cars... I figured if it was available for a Lumina and a Buick Century, why the heck not for a GTP or Grand Am? Well, the answer was simple... The caption, said sample applications... A call to the dealer led to the correct part number for the specific application....
Also, one the earlier posts discuss the type of rotor to request (yes, you can request which type of rotors that your dealer use to replace the faulty ones) from your dealer! Take our advice, REQUEST THE ---AC/DELCO 'Durastop' - CROSS-DRILLED-SLOTTED RoTORS...they are the performance rotors that should be on the GA
==============
http://www.autospecialty.com/nonflash/powerstop/index.htm
I ordered them from a local "speed & custom" shop but the part #'s are PowerStop AR-8256L (left rotor) AR-8256R (right rotor) and the pads are Autospecialty "9-1-1 Extreme Performance" 26-727-02. Those #'s are for the front brakes on a 99-00 grand Am GT, not sure if its the same for the SE models or not. Hope that helps,
It seems kind of silly that the brakes would wear out within 15k miles, even though I'm a lead foot.
Any insights on this?
TC
I replaced my disk pads at about 45k on my '99 SE2. Rear drums were fine.
I'm also a lead foot. I'd have the brakes examined for more than mere wear. Even if the pads are thin, a car will still have good braking, albeit with more fade potential. I'd tell the service droid exactly what your wife says.