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Chrysler LHS

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Comments

  • rogmanrogman Member Posts: 24
    Have a little over 40,000 miles. Trans shot. Cost to repair $1800 - $2000. Warranty is over. Chrysler says the car is too old! I am on my own. Will start the long battle with them!! So please.....beware!!
  • ms_mayorms_mayor Member Posts: 113
    This isn't covered under the 7/70 powertrain?
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    ms_mayor-

    There was NO 7/70 in 99. It was the first year for the LH models. The 7/70 came into play as DC's sales began to slip. It was supposed to be a short term "fix" to boost sales, but its still in force.

    fastdriver
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    Gotta disagree with your last that there was no 7/70 warranty on the '99 LHS.

    Took delivery of mine in April 1998 and was offered my choice of 3/36 or 7/70. Since the 7/70, at that time, included only 1/12 along with it on items other than the drive train, I opted to get the 3/36 warranty. Probably most other buyers did the same due to that skimpy additional coverage. We had no real intimation that the transmission was so screwed up on those early 1999 and 2000 models.

    Remember, too, that the updated 1998 LH body was introduced in September, 1997 with the Concorde; the LHS followed in April, 1998, but was called a 1999 model. The same thing was done before in 1992 with the 1993 Concorde. There was no 1993 LHS, but about April 1993, the LHS was released as a 1994 model.

    I had one of each, much to my regret due to Brampton's sloppy assembly. 1999 was Chrysler's so called "2mm car" meaning that all body junctions were not more than 2mm (about 1/4 inch). Haah, the hood, trunk and door fittings were more like an half to 3/4 inch!!! And none of those junctions were uniform. The dealer spent a week screwing it back together properly and refitting doors because I wouldn't accept the car as it came from the factory.

    But the 7/70 warranty was an option in '99 om the LHS. I think it was dropped for the 2000 or 2001 models and reissued later as you said for a sales incentive and to preclude some of the belly-aching about the earlier transmission problems.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    mileshoover-

    THAT is news to me because I bought Christine in JUNE of 1998 and NOTHING was ever said about a 7/70 warranty for the tranny. Maybe it was only offered on the LHS and not the 300M? Are you sure this was a FACTORY warranty and NOT a local dealer warranty? I never heard or read anything about a 7/70 warranty being offered at that time.

    fastdriver
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    Yep, it was a factory warranty. I have no idea if it was available on any other Chrysler cars that year, had no interest in the M and only bought the LHS.

    The warranty covered ONLY the drive train for 7/70, the rest was the usual type of 3/36 coverage EXCEPT it only was for 1/12 which made me turn it down, even with my nasty experience with the '94 LHS.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    mileshoover-

    IF it was available in CT in 1998, then either my "award-winning 5-STAR" dealer wasn't aware of it or failed to mention it.

    I'll ask in that other forum if anyone ever heard of this being available on other models in 1998.

    fastdriver
  • jglackinjglackin Member Posts: 164
    model year the option was offered. the 3/36 became the only option beginning w/ the 99 model year.
  • acco20acco20 Member Posts: 211
    I have a 2000 LHS. Have been having a real problem with sticking windows. All 4 stick, but the worst of them is the drivers window. I have tried the credit card to loosen them, but this does not work for me. I am in the northeast,cold, hot in summer etc. Does anyone have experiance with anything that actually works well. I would appreciate any advice. Thank you.
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    This problem is only partially solved by using the credit card. You must follow up, once the windows are moveable, to remove the residue on the glass itself which is causing the sticking.

    The weatherstrip material is made of a material which deposits some gunk on the top edges of the glass, both inside and out. This gunk must be removed and kept off.

    Clean the glass with a good glass cleaner; I like a cleaner with vinegar. You can make your own by adding about 4 tablespoons full of vinegar to about a quart of plain water; place the mixture into an old spray bottle and use it that way.

    How to get the glass down? Use the credit card or a small putty knife on BOTH sides of the glass where it touches the weatherstrips while operating the window control for down. Sometimes you may have to thump on the glass along and near the top (on both sides) to get it started down.

    Be sure to keep the glass clean at least weekly.

    I have found that getting a wax job in an auto cas wash can contribute or cause this problem also or at least make it worse, so if you use a wash, as soon as possible thereafter, clean off the top edges of the windows again after leaving the wash.

    If you are still under warranty, your dealer might replace the weatherstripping, but the sticking will only come back unless you keep the tops of the windows clean. I had my weatherstripping replaced only to have the same thing occur. There was/is a Tech Bulletin on this and dealers are well-aware of the problem.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    acco20-

    Here's the TSB on the sticking windows, a common problem on many LH models. MAYBE your "award-winning 5-STAR" dealer can look it up for you and see if he can resolve your problem.

    Make : CHRYSLER Model : LHS Year : 2000
    Service Bulletin Num : 0803100 Date of Bulletin: OCT 20, 2000
    NHTSA Item Number: 618861
    Component: VISIBILITY:POWER WINDOW DEVICES AND CONTROLS
    Summary:
    A CONDITION MAY EXIST WHERE THE WINDOW STICKS IN THE UP POSITION. THIS CONDITION MAY BE INTERMITTENT. *TT

    fastdriver
  • acco20acco20 Member Posts: 211
    Thank you for your help..re: my sticky windows
  • heydog1heydog1 Member Posts: 1
    WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK OF THIS 94 VEHICLE. IT IS SELLING FOR 1,000 BUT IT HAS 250,000 MILES. IT HAS THE V-6 3.8L ENGINE. WHAT SHOULD I WATCH OUT FOR ???? PLEASE HELP ME DECIDE.
  • rogmanrogman Member Posts: 24
    Thanks to all who posted follow ups. The 1999 LHS is covered only 3 years, 36.000 miles. No other warranty coverage. I believe the 7/70 warranty started in 2000 LHS models. I had the trans fixed at my independent auto shop. He used 3 Mopar parts for a cost of about $400. All other parts were 3rd party. Chrysler said they would refund cost of the 3 Mopar parts he used as a 'GOOD FAITH' gesture, even though car was out of warranty. My mechanic purchased Mopar parts from the trans shop he deals with. Now Chrysler will not refund parts because he did not purchase DIRECTLY from Chrylser. The Chry rep went so far as to say the parts are either used Mopar parts or not Mopar parts at all. Then the rep said I should have bought the $1500 extended warranty. So BEWARE. Some GOOD FAITH gesture huh!!
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Consumers' Most Wanted Vehicles for 2004 Survey is posted and ready for your input!
  • tksalhstksalhs Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone put white walls on their LHS? Any pictures? I've been looking but I haven't seen a single LHS, 300M or Concorde with white walls... I'm trying to imagine how it would look.
  • bat21bat21 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all:
    I bought a used 2000 LHS in 2002. I have 42,000 mi on it to date. Recently, when I put the key in the ignition and turn it - nothing happens, not a sound. Sometimes I have to turn the key back and forth several times before it will start. Othertimes i turn it and hold it until it cranks over and starts Takes several agonizing seconds. It seems electrical to me, starter, ignition, the actual switch itself or the security system. ???? Any ideas.
    Thanks, Ted
  • jsantjsant Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 LHS. Same problem for 4 months. Just fixed it tonight after changing the starter solenoid and replacing relays (with no luck and based on the recommendation of the local dealer). I found the problem. It is the ignition switch inside of the steering column. I used the Haynes manual to follow the schematic. I then pulled the harness and jumped the red and yellow wire, turned over immediately everytime. Replaced the wiring harness and had to wait. If I turn the key and push up on the ignition switch it starts everytime, right away.
  • chuckgchuckg Member Posts: 69
    I had the same problem with my '94 New Yorker, essentially the same car as the LHS. The solution was installing a new ignition switch.

    I'd say that's your solution as well.
  • waltrwaltr Member Posts: 2
    Both control buttons (driver's side and passenger side) for my '99 LHS passenger window have stopped working. Buttons for the other windows still work. Has anyone had this problem and what is the fix besides the service department of my local Chrysler dealer?
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    waltr-

    Wow! You're lucky it took this long to burn out. It was a common problem that many LH owners had. You need new window motors.

    fastdriver
  • waltrwaltr Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, fastdriver, for the info on my non-functioning window. Could you give me more information on the fix, such as: estimate on repair and can my local mechanic do the job? Thanks in advance.

    waltr
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi waltr - while you're waiting, you might want to use the Search This Discussion feature on the page bar for "window" - you should turn up some helpful previous posts by doing that.

    Good luck! :)
  • fastdriver2fastdriver2 Member Posts: 19
    waltr-

    Sorry for the delay in answering. My usual screename "fastdriver" isn't working AGAIN, so I had to use my alternate fastdriver2 sign-in. Very screwy.

    I have NO clue as to the cost. ALL work done on my Christine was performed under warranty at those "award-winning 5-STAR" dealers! I found this for you at NHTSA.

    CHRYSLER
    Model : LHS
    Year : 1999

    Service Bulletin Num : 084099
    Date of Bulletin: DEC 03, 1999

    NHTSA Item Number: 6089717
    Component: VISIBILITY:POWER WINDOW DEVICES AND CONTROLS

    Summary:
     DISCUSSION STATING THAT CURRENTLY, WINDOW MOTORS ARE BEING SERVICED SEPARATELY FROM THE WINDOW REGULATOR. *TT

    CHRYSLER
    Model : LHS
    Year : 1999

    Service Bulletin Num : #9867
    Date of Bulletin: DEC 15, 1998

    NHTSA Item Number: 603173
    Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:WIRING

    Summary:
     COMPLAINTS OF WINDOW MOTORS WIRED INCORRECTLY. *YC

    It was a well-known problem back in 99-00. The fact that yours lasted so long just seems to mean it died a "natural" death and wasn't a result of DC's $$$ cutting. Back in 98, it was still CHRYSLER!

    Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

    fastdriver2 AKA fastdriver when that account starts working again!
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    After a period of inactivity, this discussion automatically archived itself. By request, I am reopening it.

    Enjoy!
  • billgolfer09billgolfer09 Member Posts: 18
    Does anyone know how to access this to change a bulb? The manual says to "Open the trunk and reach up under the package shelf." But when I open the trunk and look under where the center stop light is, there is no access port. Should I pry off the plastic buttons that hold the trunk ceiling material in place? If I do this, will I need to buy replacement plastic buttons? If so, where do I get them? Thanks.
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Member Posts: 122
    You can just pull on the ceiling material below the light and the plastic pins will pop out. 1 below center of the light and 1 near right end of light. You can then slip your hand in and remove socket with quarter turn and replace the bulb. The ceiling material will stay in place no need to replace the pins. I did this to remove the bulbs when I put my wing on the trunk as it had a LED light bar in it.
    They do sell a tool to remove the pins at the parts stores, looks like a bent screwdriver with a V in the end. You can get extra pins from the
    Service Dept at the dealer usually no charge.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
  • gcrossgcross Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 chry LHS. Recently the truck releases started activating when the auto door locks engage, the horn stopped working, and the stereo audio stopped work (all at the same time). Anyone know the problem and a solultion? thanks
  • tkaztkaz Member Posts: 69
    Have a 99 LHS with a low 143,000 miles. It's been a great car until recently. First service call, other than fluid and filter changes was at 110K miles. Changed original brakes, rotors, timing belt, plugs, water pump, radiator fan motors and had injectors and throttle body cleaned. Up until then highway MPG was good - typically 28MPG on trips. But after the 110K service call the pickup and MPG has suffered. The dealer rechecked timing belt position and installed another set of plugs but no change.

    At 135K I had more service - air conditioner compressor (noisy), evaporator (small leak), struts, bushings. Also had the 4 oxygen sensors replaced as dealer said a sensor might be causing the MPG problem. No luck so far.

    Here is the bottom line problem. The MPG listed is for highway driving. If the outside temperature is around 70 degrees when I start the car the MPG is about 28-29. If the temp is around 50 degrees the MPG is about 26. If temp is 30 degrees the MPG is about 24. If the temp is 80 degrees the MPG is 24. If it is 90 degrees the MPG is about 20. If at 95 degrees the MPG is 18.

    As an example I started the car one day when it was 95 degrees. Pickup was terrible and MPG was about 18. As I kept driving the temp dropped to 70 degrees at night. When I stopped the engine to gas up and restarted the engine the MPG went up to 28.

    Any ideas what is causing this and how to fix?
    Thanks
  • kathaerkathaer Member Posts: 1
    Would any of you post your repair story about Chrysler Air Conditioners?

    I was driving home from work enjoying my air conditioned ride when I was sideswipped on driver's side.

    We went to pick up our LHS from being fixed and turned on the a/c and got nothing but hot air. The a/c worked before the accident and doesn't work now--our conclusion was that it was knocked out by the accident. Garage mechanics said they didn't know what was wrong with it; but, they could do a diagnostic test on it for $100 and tell us.

    The catch 22 is: before the diagnostic test, our insurance adjuster said "he didn't think" the "non-working" a/c was caused by the accident and suspected that it was the evaporator pan that was the cause; and since "he" thought that, the insurance refused to pay for the diagnostic test. The insurance people further said that "unless it was the compressor or hose that was leaking" that the accident was not the reason the a/c wasn't working. The funny part is that, as I said, the garage mechanic said he didn't know "what" was wrong with the a/c without doing the diagnostic test; so, I "okay'd" the test to be done.

    The garage mechanics come back with -- evaporator pan needs replaced $255 for parts and $638 labor (evidently the evaporator pan in enclosed in a plastic case under the dashboard on the RIGHT side and it is labor intensive to get to).

    We go back to the insurance adjuster and tell him that and he states that "Chrysler is known for having problems with their air conditioners" and refuses to discuss our claim any further.

    So, I am looking for any Chrysler air conditioning stories that owners/past owners/drivers of Chryslers want to tell. Thank you.
  • tkaztkaz Member Posts: 69
    Both my 95 and 99 LHS had to have the evaporator coils replaced because of leaks. Yes from what I have heard Chrysler has had a problem with evaporator coils.
  • malinskimalinski Member Posts: 2
    I sure hope someone can help me out please!
    I want to buy or have fixed the LED 3rd brake light on my 94 LHS. Dealership prices are expensive for a new one. I also new to replace or repair the flashing LED that's on the dash...when the alarm is activated..the LED flashes. Alarm is working...just the LED is burned out. I do have power going to the alarm LED...all that was checked out. With the 3rd brake light...24 of the LED's are not lighting up.
    Some company somewhere must know how to repair these things! Any leads? Thanks!
  • hfish1212hfish1212 Member Posts: 14
    Might be they reflashed the engine controller. I have read they had to lower the fuel economy to better the emmisions. A cooler burning engine produces less emmisions than a hot one. More gas will reduce the combustion temperature which cools it enough to decrease these emmisions. I don't think they have the old program to flash it back so you might have to buy an older Engine Control Module from www.car-parts.com .

    Hal
  • hfish1212hfish1212 Member Posts: 14
    www.car-parts.com can get you the parts (go to the highest number search page for the best prices), you'll have to find a shop to install them (I don't know how your car is designed, I have a 99). I only looked up the brake light and its $10 (third brake light) at 1-800-333-2104 part number# 050549

    Hal
  • hfish1212hfish1212 Member Posts: 14
    I purchased a '99 that only had 11k miles on just a few weeks ago. It has many of the problems discussed on this board (steering shimmy over 60mph, flashing lights, dead struts, windows sticking, rubber around headlights shrinking, etc...) but I have managed to fix a few of those problems relatively easy. I found that even with such few miles on the car, it still had a blown strut (left passenger side) and the rest were very soft. I replaced all of them and did an alignment and now it rides completely smooth even with the stock tires (Goodyears) with little squeel (noticed that before the alignment). Kind of funny because the original owner had an extra receipt for tire balancing so I know he always had the problem.

    I have seen the inside dash gauges flash once. They go completely out when they did this so I know it's not just a dimmer switch issue. I'll get a rebuilt Body Control Module (which I am told is under the dash) if it continues to be a problem.

    I'll get some Rubber Black and wipe the seals around the windows so that doesn;t burn their motors out. I'll ignore the rubber around the headlights. I also noticed the headlights are pointed just a tad low (probably normal). In these days of giant SUV's blaring their headlights in your car I certainly won't mind re-aiming these just a tad higher (adjust them up just a few inchs while pointing at a wall, then try them by parking about 20' behind another car on a flat surface to ensure they don't point into that car). This headlight re-aiming tip works makes a HUGE difference most of the time.

    For the $12,500 I have into it I hope it lasts another 100k!

    Hal
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Do you have an LHS or a 300M? Just wondering since you made the same post in both discussions.
  • ebesebes Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 LHS and the problem i have is when i go to start it sometimes it takes forever before it will even attempt to start. Dealer says its because of security system but i do what he said and still takes a while sometimes minutes...please help! :sick:
  • tkaztkaz Member Posts: 69
    The dealer said they updated the computer. So you be correct with this. It just seems weird how outside temperature dependendent my gas mileage is. I searched car-parts.com. Is there another name for the Engine Control Module?
  • tkaztkaz Member Posts: 69
    Do the headlamp bulbs get weak over time? It sure seems like my low beam headlights in my 99 LHS are weaker than they used to be. Don't know if the 9006XSLL bulbs get weak over time.
  • chuckgchuckg Member Posts: 69
    I don't know if they get weak or not. I doubt it though.

    How old is your battery? You may want to get it checked-out.
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    My 02 Limited always has had sticky windows when opening. Never paid much attention til I read about it in this forum. Went out today and did the following:
    1. Opened each and took a razor and scraped the top inch or so to remove a rubbery residue.
    2. Cleaned the glass at the top thoroughly with window cleaner then applied rain-x to the top edge as per directions.
    3. Applied rubber treatment to the gasket at the top of the door---very aggressively to get into the contact edge.

    Results were amazing. So smooth and effortless.

    It pays to browse these forums---thanks to all and Edmunds!!
  • tkaztkaz Member Posts: 69
    Battery is less than a year old. High beams are fine.
  • chuckgchuckg Member Posts: 69
    tkaz- I talked to a mechanic buddy of mine. He has not seen this before. He used the word resistance to describe your problem. I'll ask another mechanic friend of mine on Thursday and see if he has any ideas.

    I had this problem many years ago. I changed the battery and that solved it. Cars are a lot different now though.
  • chuckgchuckg Member Posts: 69
    Here's your problem. You have a bad ground. Check your wires leading to your lights. Look for any breaks or skinned wires. Check all connectors in the line and make sure they are properly seated. You may want to reseat these connectors.

    I was told that your problem is probably around your battery. When it was replaced something could have broken loose. It's an honest mistake that does sometimes happen. Start looking there.

    Also, any other work done on your car recently? If so check it out.

    The mechanic would like to know how you make out. He's seen this before.
  • fla_kyfla_ky Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 LHS and have encountered a recent problem with the "Message Center" showing the ABS and Trac Control indicators lit up. It happens at random during driving, not just during or after braking, and once they come on the stay lit until the engine is turned off. For instance, I saw them come on while driving along after driving at 45 mph for some time after my last brake application. Nothing seems to affect my braking capabilities, although I haven't had to make a "panic stop" since the onset of the problem. I don't know if the ABS system is affected in any way. Any idea of what I should check? Has anyone had a similar problem? Thanks...
  • aspecialtiesaspecialties Member Posts: 1
    Recently acquired a 99 lhs. It had a bad battery and I replaced it w/ a new one. Upon driving the car for a few miles, i noticed the battery light had come on. I can turn the ignition off and restart the car and the light will go off. The Battery light might come on after a few miles or it may not come on at all(40 + miles). The battery does not go dead(like the car is not charging)....no matter how much i drive it.

    Couple of related things i have noticed. My interior(dash cluster, interior lights, etc.) lights seem to "flutter" from bright to low somewhat. They do not seem to be getting a consistent power supply. Also, i notice that sometimes when i push on the breaks, sometimes my radio cuts off, my dash lights flicker...for a fraction of a second....then things turn back to normal. Sometimes when i drive the car, my battery light does not come on at all and i notice that the earlier described symptoms do not appear.

    I have cleaned my Hot/Ground connections on my battery connectors, and have replaced the alternator w/ a known good unit w/out any change. Is there anyone who has had experience w/this type of issue on chryslers. any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
  • chuckgchuckg Member Posts: 69
    I have the same exact problem. It happens once every six months or so. The car hasn't set any codes.

    To me it is so minor that I don't worry about it. I just live with it and when it does happen, I know it will reset itself.
  • tkaztkaz Member Posts: 69
    The problem seemed to be the plastic headlight lens. Even though they had not yellowed, they were quite pitted on close examination. I wet sandpapered them, then used compound and then polish. That helped a lot. Went one step farther and bought a pair of Sylvania Silverstar lamps. What I found interesting is the LHS manual and the Sylvania web site says use a 9006XS (straight base)for low beam. However, the actual low beam lamps in my LHS are 9006ST (right angle). The straight base lamps will not fit. If you change lamps male sure you check first. Once you know what to look for it is easy to see. Between removing the pits from the plastic lens and replacing the bulbs the low beam intensity and coverage seems fine.
  • shaliloglushaliloglu Member Posts: 36
    I have 95 LHS.
    It has developed a fuel smell, mostly on the outside, after especially heat or AC is on during travel.

    Any others out there who has/had this problem.?
    What may be issue to fix here.?
    safe to drive.?

    Thanks for any info you can provide.
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