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Chrysler LHS

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Comments

  • chuckgchuckg Member Posts: 69
    I have a '94 New Yorker (same body as LHS) and have the fuel smell you describe. My odor is coming from under the hood. Check your fuel rails in the front of your engine for leaks.

    I believe there was a recall several years ago to fix the rails. I never got it done and have been living with the smell for a couple of years now.

    I've also been told that there is some kind of fuel vent in the back of the engine that can stick. Don't know how true that is but you may want to ask someone that knows and report back.
  • bjk202bjk202 Member Posts: 3
    i am thinking about purchasing a 2000 lhs with 202,000 miles on it. any advice or thoughts?
    looks very clean and tight. was told it was well maintained.
  • chuckgchuckg Member Posts: 69
    Why not. They're nice cars. And with those miles, they can't be asking a lot of money for it.

    The 3.5L engine is good. It has a stainless exhaust on it. There probably is little rust under it. Nice interior.

    Ask him about the air conditioner. The evaporators can go bad and they are an expensive repair.

    What do they want for it?
  • bjk202bjk202 Member Posts: 3
    asking price is $3500.00
  • chuckgchuckg Member Posts: 69
    I priced-out the car on Edmunds. Depending on the options that car is worth $4,000-$4,300 as a private party sale, according to Edmunds.

    So, you purchase the car for $3,000-$3,500, drive it for a couple of years, and get rid of it for maybe $2,500. Even if the engine blows after 2 years, the car owes you nothing.

    My buddy owns a car repair shop. He gets cars all the time that he fixes and sells. You wouldn't believe how much he gets for high mileage cars that aren't in the greatest of shape.

    If that LHS is in good shape, in a couple of years that car will be worth almost what you paid for it, if you sell it yourself. I know. I see it all the time at his shop.

    As long as that car is in good shape, I'd go for it.
  • bjk202bjk202 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you chuckg you have been very helpful and I appreciate it very much. bjk202
  • cujo123cujo123 Member Posts: 2
    i own a 2000 chrysler lhs..thing is the key wont go inside the keylock..is there somekind of reprogramming that needs to be done..does anybody else have this problem..it wont go in on either side of the door..thanks for your help..
  • bigsmellymanbigsmellyman Member Posts: 2
    I recently had a similar problem on my 1997 LHS. When I put on the brakes,the ABS was being activated when the road was dry. Also when I accelerated the traction control was being activated. I checked both front wheel speed sensors and they checked OK (1180 ohms) It turned out to be the notched ring had come loose on the driver's side. I used 5 min epoxy to glue it back into place. So far so good.
  • jriggjrigg Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 LHS has a rough idle/knock. The pully on the camshaft seems to have play at an idle. When you put the car in gear or put a load on the play/knock is gone. Has anyone experienced this problem? Could it be the thrust bearing or perhaps the less expensive route only the pully?

    I have 106,000 miles on it and it has been well cared for.

    jrigg
  • godyzarcgodyzarc Member Posts: 1
    Is or has anyone had this problem? From 0, when engine is hot, valve chatter and rattle. Dealer is clueless. Changed oil to high mileage (have 76k), oil filter and added oil treatment. Still rattles. No power loss, no indicator lights. Just rattle rattle rattle. Sounds like the top of the motor is starving for oil. Going uphill is the worst. Any help would be appreciated.
  • gibby2gibby2 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 97 LHS that the heater fan motor will not shut off as long as the key is turned on. I pulled the control unit from the dash and unplugged everything and the motor still runs. I'm thinking there must be a relay somewhere that controls that motor but where is it. Any suggestions or help with this problem would be appreciated.

    TIA
    Gibby2
  • griffisgriffis Member Posts: 2
    just purchased a 2000 lhs yesterday with 77k miles and i love this car driven many licolns before this car and i like the ride in the lhs better. it doesnt have the owners manual and i would like it to tell me how to operate all the gadgets inside the car and to have info on how to take care of it if anyone has one please let me get a copy from you ill pay for the copies or let me know where to get one
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    Use your favorite search engine and search car owners manuals. You might find one at a junk yard but the LHS is not that common a model so probably not. Expect to pay at least $30 with shipping maybe more.
  • griffisgriffis Member Posts: 2
    thank you but i just talked to the company that sold it to me and they said they promise a manual with every car so they ordered for me i love this car
  • aaerosaaeros Member Posts: 1
    Where is the starter motor located in a 1999 Chyrsler LHS and can it be easily replaced?
  • ltejadaltejada Member Posts: 1
    My Chrysler LHS 1995 some times do not start. I found the vehicle with NO power to the system (NO interior lights, NO radio, NO power at all) of course it will not start.

    Some times with a little tap to the fuse box it will allow the power to be delivered and after that is normal operation. Lately with some vibrations the power is cut-off and the car stops until power is delivered again (few taps on the fuse box and there).

    ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
  • carroll6carroll6 Member Posts: 1
    My 95 LHS overheats.. the fans don't kick on, but I can click the A/C button, and they come on.. the A/C is not functional on this car.. I wonder what the problem is?
  • cujo123cujo123 Member Posts: 2
    Does any know were is the AC Recharge Port for a Chrysler LHS, year 2000? I located the green valve, but are unable to locate the grey and/or black valve. Thank you!
  • fla_kyfla_ky Member Posts: 2
    I am getting ready to do a major overhaul of the cooling system on my '97 LHS, including new radiator, hoses and water pump. According to parts lists, there are two different water pumps that could go on a 3.5L engine, one with three mounting holes and one with five or six. How can I know in advance which one it takes, so I can purchase the right one?
    Is there a VIN # or other code that can make that determination?
  • shaliloglushaliloglu Member Posts: 36
    The light usually comes on after 15-20 mins of driving . Engine temp is Normal.
    It will stay on. Next time I turn on the engine it won't come on initially but will mostly come back.

    I am clueless. what do I check first, second.? ANy help would be great. thanks
  • chuckgchuckg Member Posts: 69
    You need to check that code. When the check engine light is on and the vehicle is NOT running put your key in the ignition and do this: ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON without starting the engine. Do this within five seconds. Your check engine light will start blinking a code. The code will be two digits and the blinks will be separated by a pause between the two. Example: blink-blink-pause-blink-blink. This would be code 22. Code 55 signals an end to the code.

    Then check your code(s) here:

    http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html
  • malinskimalinski Member Posts: 2
    I sure would appreciate help! Seeing how the dealership has taken almost 3 grand of my money and still the problem exists.
    Transmission.
    External tranny oil cooler added and the problem went away for about a week....now it's back. Tranny goes into 2nd gear after 20-30 minutes of stop and go driving. The outside temp is around 90 degrees...I live in Guam.
    Tranny was replaced....same problem. Dealership replaced the TCM and the computer box inside the tranny. Same problem. All new sensors as well.
    What is causing the transmission to go into 2nd gear? I then reset it by shifting in to "N" and shutting the engine off and restarting and I'm good to go until 20 minutes later.
    2nd problem...
    oil light comes on after 20 minutes. Sending unit was changed...3 times! NEW oil pump and timming belt installed 4 days ago....oil light still comes on!
    I purchased the sending units from NAPA...not OEM from Chrysler. The pump is oil pump is OEM.
    3rd...
    auto climate control...the recirculation button goes off after a few minutes once the unit has been turned on and I have to press it again. While driving...it also goes off from time to time.
    Thank you all!
  • kerri29kerri29 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 LHS while driving it acted like it ran out of gas, after setting for awhile it started and ran for a while, it now won't start at all any suggestions?
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    Call a tow truck and have it delivered to a trustworthy garage to have it diagnosed . Should be pretty straight forward to diagnose---no fuel= bad pump, obstructed lines etc.
  • snevetssnevets Member Posts: 1
    Malinski:
    I read your thread as I have the same problem with my transmission as you do (did). My LHS is a 99. I also replaced a tranny, modules, TCM etc. The dealer finally told me that my battery was extremely corroded and maybe that was affecting signals somehow. The battery is well concealed in my model. He did this and the car worked fine for 5 months. Yesterday, the problem recurred, and my searching for answers brought me to your posting.

    Did you ever get a reply that worked? If so, I'd appreciate you forwarding it to me. I do NOT live in a warm climate unfortunately (Seattle) so it probably isn't temperature related.
    Thanks in advance.
    Snevets
  • chris1993chris1993 Member Posts: 6
    you can also buy warr 1 day or 1 mile before dealer warr voids if you lease . when lease is up if you like car call your bank you save 2 000 to 5000 dollars dealer charges for every thing
  • chris1993chris1993 Member Posts: 6
    put on scaner find codes or you will get it it could be your pac wheel sensor map prndel trans fluid ect get codes go to a crysler dealer look up part s so you dont get it the wallet very comon prob try allexperts.com very helpfull
    lots of luck
  • chris1993chris1993 Member Posts: 6
    run dont look back mench will be best friend
    lots of problems high maintance car
  • sprintracer56sprintracer56 Member Posts: 1
    I recentley was driving in 20 degree weather along with fog,freezing rain,slush and ice on the roadway. When running about 70mph my car stuttered then died.My trottle pedal had a binding condition in it.With the car not running the first quater inch or so the throttle pedal felt stuck then i would push it on down and it was fine.It would do this every time until i opened the hood and tapped on the trottle body with a screw driver lightley,this freed my trottle pedal up fine.I had no more problems with binding,but did continue to have trouble with the car dieing at these 70mph speeds.I did notice some moisture in my airbox and it was sugested to me that the problem could be that the air was freezing in my induction causing my mass air flow sensor to freeze over and possibly that was ice in my throttle body causing that binding in my throttle pedal.I have no codes to go by because not knowing what was truely wrong i was disconnecting my negative ground to let my compuer reset.Does any one have any suggestion on this subject? If you think this is my problem,is there anway to help prevent it?Thanks!!
  • jimsspikejimsspike Member Posts: 1
    On a 2001 LHS the heater blower works when it feels like it and sometimes does not work at all. Any suggestions? Also in the auto mode for the head lights, during the night the lights started coming on and going off, almost like magic in the middle of the night. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for help. Jim
  • rsherwoodrsherwood Member Posts: 3
    hi
    i am new to this forum,
    i just fixed the exact issue you are speaking about with the lights flashing and the horn going off, it was with the battery operated pod for the power door locks..... I took fuse #13 for the interior lights out and the horn stopped, weird eh. anyhow..... This is how I fixed mine after spending alot of money trying other things and 5 days later this is what worked for me.
    Make sure ALL your Fuses and Relays under your dash and under your hood are GOOD. Then check the batteries in your remote control for your door locks.... make sure they are in properally and are not dea ( from cold weather or from being old and used) then take the battery cable off the battery,this resets it and now try your pod-remote for your automatic door locks..... they maybe frozen as well, put lock deicer in the door locks and the trunk lock as well..... use your key in ALL the locks to Lock and Unlock ALL teh door locks and try the steps over again....IT worked for me, good luck, let me know how you make out!
    rebecca
  • rsherwoodrsherwood Member Posts: 3
    oh my blower motor I thought was gone as well, but after driving for 3 hours it came on.
    This is what happened, one day it was mild and rained the following day it was minus 30 almost, so they froze I assume, as when I drove the car about 3 hours with NO heat, I left the heater on and the front and rear defrost on as well, then the engine warmed up and the blower started, I was also low in coolant, if you are low it will NOT trigger the heater....so be sure to try it, you may have a leak in your rad or somewhere, make suer you keep this filled AT ALL TIMES, DO NOT over will as you will ruin your radiator.... the fins will burst then you will have to replace the rad along with other things...
    good luck, let me know how you made out please.
    Rebecca
  • bigrich0086bigrich0086 Member Posts: 6
    I been wanting to replace my front headlights on my 1994 chrysler lhs but when i get the front grill off and suck. the bolt that goes into the headlight housing didnt seem to be coming out it was jsut turning becasue the metal threads in the hosuing i think seized on the bolt and its jsut turnign everytim i turn it. i cant seem to find a way to get the bolt out with out damaging it.
  • rsherwoodrsherwood Member Posts: 3
    CUT IT OFF AND THEN GO TO YOUR LOCAL SCRAP YARD AND BUY ANOTHER BOLT OR CRAPPY TIRE. THEY ARE CHEAP! THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY MIGHT COST YOU $50. BOLTS PROBALLY $2.00 MAYBE LESS.....
    GOOD LUCK, LET ME KNOW HOW YOU MAKE OUT.
    REBECCA
  • slb8d4slb8d4 Member Posts: 1
    I'd appreciate any help you guys can give me. My 94 LHS doesn't like to shift out of first gear. After my car sits for any amount of time and I start it up to go somewhere the gauges won't come on and it won't shift out of first gear. Usually I take the back roads when I go places and eventually the gauges pop up and it shifts out of first. Sometimes I can drive for a half hour and it never shifts out of first. It seems to go in phases, it will do okay for awhile but then all of a sudden it won't shift out of first. Thanks in advance for the help.
  • bigrich0086bigrich0086 Member Posts: 6
    sounds like to me that your transmission linkage is malfunctioning. But im not positive. if it shifts out of first when hitting bumps then soungs like the links arent doing their job. try listening to the links when ur in ur drive way by shifting out of park to reverse then neutral drive and hear if it shifts normal. hope this helps
  • jayriderjayrider Member Posts: 3,602
    Sounds like after 13 years of service, your transmission needs rebuilding. Hope mine lasts that long.
  • bigrich0086bigrich0086 Member Posts: 6
    How to adjust the idle speed on 1994 chrysler lhs. i see the throttle under the hood but dont see what screw i adjsut to increase the idle.
  • bigrich0086bigrich0086 Member Posts: 6
    i got a 94 chrysler lhs and wanted to turn off the day time running lights. i can't take out the fuse due to being wired with other components. is their a way to stop the running light fomr being on. would cutting the low voltage wire work
  • marmooremarmoore Member Posts: 5
    94 LHS - been a great car. Bought it used in 04. Digital display on radio does not work and there seems to be some sort of short in the radio. Not at full volume but I can push on the lower RH corner of the radio and it kicks in good and loud until I let go. But the main problem happened this week. Started getting a pecking sound that goes up and down with the RPMs on the motor. First time I have ever heard this type of noise under the hood. Sounds almost like it could be the alternator, PS Pump or an exhaust leak. Has anyone else had this main problem?
  • marmooremarmoore Member Posts: 5
    Is the car from Canada? I have a 94 and mine does not have DT Runners.
  • bigrich0086bigrich0086 Member Posts: 6
    No majority cars with Dt running lights are usually form canada of manufactured there. mines from canada and my lights are on all time. car is still in KM
  • bigrich0086bigrich0086 Member Posts: 6
    94 lhs dricing light replacement. the bulbs next to he headlighs with the magnafying glass over them. to repalce them the silver stars say h3st. so that means any bulb thats h3 model will fit. im lookin to get the nokya artic whites 7000k h3 state 2. these shouold work.
  • 99lhs99lhs Member Posts: 5
    I had the same issue with my 99 LHS after I let it sit for the winter. I expected to pay hundreds of dollars to have this issue fixed. Guess what, all it was, was a fuse for the coolant fans which only cost me $2. I'd be driving me car and about a half hour later it would overheat and cut off, how emberrassing. After I replaced the fuses back to the way it should be. But try that and hopefully you'll have some luck. Let me know.

    Chonzie
  • 99lhs99lhs Member Posts: 5
    I didn't put white walls on my LHS and I haven't seen one with white walls either. Frankly, I dont think white walls would look good on an LHS but thats just my opinion, you may have different taste.

    However, I purchased my LHS a year ago and it looked like a plane jane. When I saw the car I knew the potential it had once I got my hands on it. I'm going to see if there is any way I can post a picture of my LHS along with this reply to you.

    I added Satelite radio,a banging sound system, limo tint, green park lights which compliment the fog lights. I normally just ride with my park lights and fog lights on to add appeal to it when I'm cruising down the highway. (people always ask how I got green lights, heres the secret Auto Zone sells light bulb covers for a few bucks, all colors.) A Le Bra on the front and a chrome pin stripe on both sides along with a set of 20" chrome rims with Z-rated low profile tires a.k.a show tires. Although I haven't added that much to my car it makes it look alot better and reflects my taste. I plan to add Lambo. doors on the front doors this summer along with having the two back doors open outward. Lol. I love this car.

    I have to say with the few things I added I love the limo. tint the most. People cant see me at all and thats how I like it. Some people have a habbit of staring too long and hard at stop lights and that really irritates me, so problem solved!

    Unfortunately I cant add a picture to the forum but I have a picture of my car posted on my web page.

    Check it out,

    http://blackplanet.com/imari_ali/
  • 99lhs99lhs Member Posts: 5
    I have the same issue with my 99 LHS. I never realized it until my battery died in my remote and I had to unlock the door manually. Only difference I with mine I can stick my key in the driver side door but it will not turn at all. I never got it checked out because I use the keyless entry but thought I'd let you know I have a simular issue.
  • 99lhs99lhs Member Posts: 5
    I'm curious to know if anyone has had to replace their gear shift cable. I have a 99 LHS and a I bought it a year ago. Shortly after buying it I thought I was having transmission problems and thats exactly what people kept telling me and of course I was very upset, but come to find out that was not the problem.

    My gear shift would stick in certain gears and there were even times I couldn't get it to go into park so I had to put it in neutral and put the emergency brake on.

    To make a long story short I started wondering if maybe anyone else had this issue and thought their transmission was or went out. Its funny because several mechanics told me my tranny was going out and that was NOT the case.

    I only paid $70 for the gear shift cable from Chrysler and labor was only $100. Not bad at all compared to what I expected to pay. Now my gearshift shifts the way its suppose to and I made a point to go back to all three mechanics and inform them that it was not the transmission just the gearshift cable. All three were amazed and of course emberrassed for misinforming me.
  • 99lhs99lhs Member Posts: 5
    I am having that same issue with my LHS as far the high beams flashing by themselves. I thought at first maybe someone had some sort of gadget and was playing with my alarm. LOL.
  • walt5walt5 Member Posts: 4
    My 99 LHS Owner's Manual tells me that to repace a headlight I have to remove the rubber grommet located in the front wheel well then remove two(?) fasteners that attach the front "fascia" to the fender...have removed the grommet but can barely get fingers inside the aperture..have probed around inside but can't locate fasteners..need help badly with this one...car was made in Canada if that helps...thanks in advance..

    walt5 :confuse:
  • hfish1212hfish1212 Member Posts: 14
    These cars are crap and dangerous. My car is doing everything imaginable (I don't want to list it all). From what I heard it is the Body Control Module. But guess what! I suspect they have a FLOATING GROUND in that module and if you just replace the unit the next one will probably have the same problem after a while. These cars are dangerous because this problem can cause the whole car to die while running. NEVER, I REPEAT, NEVER, BUY ANOTHER AMERICAN MADE CAR AND ALL YOUR PROBLEMS WILL BE SOLVED!!! Just to prove it, look at what Toyota is worth (TM $205 b) now look at GM, $20 b. What a junk company!!! All the money is sucked into the execs and works, nothing is left to make a decent product! Let American car companies die. Heck, most of them are made in other countries while Honda and Toyota are actually made in the US.
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