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Chrysler LHS

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Comments

  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    One other thing. Did you resynchronize the throttle bodies after re installation?
  • tsurnicktsurnick Member Posts: 42
    I just got everything else repaired and now the LHS started overheating today. One thing i dont like about this particular vehicle is the cooling system. it has one of those self contained radiators that doesnt have a cap on top of it. the overflow tank is near the firewall on the passenger side. I have recently replaced the thermostat. ( I had to take it off when I replaced the intake manifold gaskets). what should i check first on the cooling system. We actually changed the fluid about 3 months ago. What is a good way to tell if the radiator is clogged?
  • tsurnicktsurnick Member Posts: 42
    Yes, I did Sync the throttle bodies. everything seems to have worked itself out. Please see my other post about the cooling system. Any info would be good

    Thanks

    Timothy
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    First assume that the over heating is related to your repair until proved otherwise.

    The first thing that comes to mind is air locks in the cooling system. When the radiator is drained AND filled the heater must be full on. If it wasn't then drain and start again. Also as it first warms up after filling, bleed off the air by opening the air release valve on top of the thermostat housing. Remember the heat must be switched full on with the engine running before draining, as it needs the electrics up and vacuum to set the heater full on.

    Talking of the thermostat, make sure it is correctly oriented. It is eccentric, so make sure it not only is the right way round, but that none of the struts is impeding flow. Most modern thermostats are very sensitive to correct orientation.

    The third and worst possibility is that you have leak of coolant into the manifold due to a gasket leak around a waterway on the intake manifold. Did you put a bead of blue RTV sealant around the waterways on the intake manifold, as specified in the repair manual? If you are leaking water and replacing it with air, then you should see a white sweet smelling exhaust, especially on first starting up.
    Also a plug or two will show evidence of water present during combustion.

    Those are my thoughts on things to check.
  • jolley18jolley18 Member Posts: 1
    Is the original exhaust pipe spliced before or at the wye ?
  • nbeltnbelt Member Posts: 13
    so i got a working heater control and now it wont blow hot air?? im told that you have to take the entire dash out to access any of the components that could be causing this, i.e the actuator that opens and closes the door to allow hot air to come through. does anyone know if any of this stuff can be accessed without taking the dash out?
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    Your information is very sparse. What problems have you had, and why did you replace the ATC unit?

    As you select modes does air blow from the correct locations?

    Have you done any work on the cooling system, or drained it for any reason?

    The heating cooling system is complicated, and you need an accurate diagnosis before pulling ANYTHING apart.

    You can get fault codes from the ATC . Have the engine idling and the temperature set to 75 degrees. Hold down the top two left buttons and the top farthest right, (floor, mix and defrost). Hold them down simultaneously until the display section blinks, then release them at the same time. The display will blink for a while and then show any double digit trouble codes from 23 to 36.

    The display can only display one code at once. To move to the next code, press and release the lower left button (panel). Continue until all fault codes are displayed. Record them and post back here.
  • bsanders84bsanders84 Member Posts: 1
    Man! i wish i had found this site earlier. I my transmition has a problem with stickin in first gear and my heater is out what did you do to fix your problems. Cause i am stilll having transmition problems after having it rebuilt
  • niobium8niobium8 Member Posts: 1
    What could cause this car to burn to rich? I have decreased gas millage, decreased power and I can smell a gas/exhaust mix when I come to a stop light. I have to roll the windows down.

    What components are responsible for gas/air mixture?

    TIA,
    nio
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    I suspect it is not burning rich, but leaking gas, which is very dangerous. There was a recall on those vehicles, for leaking fuel rails. Check that this vehicle had the fuel rails replaced under the recall, by contacting a Chrysler dealer. Have them check you VIN and make sure the recall was done. If it was not done, get it done.

    Even the replaced rails fail more often than they should.

    Check for fuel leaks first, especially from the fuel rails. If there is no leak, then check engine codes which can be done from the ignition switch.
  • lhsdudelhsdude Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 LHS that idles fine. It is when I am driving that the engine runs rough and seems to shudder while accelerating. The transmission shifts smoothly with no hesitation. My overall gas mileage has gone down from 23 to 20mph. I have replaced the air filter, fuel filter, plugs and wires. I have used Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and injector cleaner for the last 4 fillups. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
  • fryegirlfryegirl Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 LHS and all of the climate controls work but the fan does not blow. Please help me fix this!!!! I heard that it if the coolant is low it will prevent the fan from working- True? :confuse:
  • fryegirlfryegirl Member Posts: 2
    IT seems Like you know a lot about this kind of stuff and my 99 LHS Fan won't work ..... All of the climate controls do though.... What do you suggest?
  • amgpamgp Member Posts: 5
    lhsdude,
    Have you found any solutions to fix your 96 LHS yet?

    I have a 94 LHS with 44,000 miles that has the exact same problems as your 96 (running rough and chugging during acceleration), except mine also runs rough at idle, but smooths out at constant RPMs while driving on level roads (no hills). My gas mileage has also decreased from 22 to 15. It began doing this all of a sudden a couple of months ago. Changing plugs, wires, air filter hasn't done anything to fix it.
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    I can bet the rent, that you problem is a major intake manifold leak. From what I found when I did mine, 100% of these are destined for failure.

    Squirt carb cleaner under the plenum by the thermostat housing, and see if the idle straightens out.

    If it does you have your answer. If you have a bad gasket it won't be long before you are leaking coolant into a cylinder or two, and doing some serious damage. May be you already are.
  • lhsdudelhsdude Member Posts: 2
    Hi, My car ended up dying on me. After having it towed to a buddys garage he did some tests and found I had a bad fuel pump. I also had some bad gromets holding my subframe up and the subframe was moving. The subframe holds the enginge, tranny, and rack. After these repairs the car runs fine. I did have a problem a few years back with misfiring. As tuscanskipper suggested for your problem, that problem was the intake manifold. I would suggest starting with what he told you to do with that and if that doesn't work check your fuel pressure and your spark. Good luck!
  • amgpamgp Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for your replies, tuscanskipper and lhsdude, and for all of your very helpful postings describing the intake manifold problem, tuscanskipper.

    I sprayed carb cleaner under the thermostat housing, and everywhere else I could see where the plenum attaches to the engine. Unfortunately, it didn't have any effect on the rough idle.

    Although I'd recently replaced the plugs and wires, out of frustration, I thought I'd try pulling each wire off of each plug one at a time with the engine idling to see if I was getting spark through the wires. Each wire checked out fine (spark was present), but when I pulled the wires from two different plugs, there was no change in the idle (it didn't get worse).

    So much for Autolite Platinums (that's all that was available locally at the time). I've ordered new Champion Double Platinums, and after they arrive, I'll report back with the results.
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    Since you have an irregular misfire, pulling plugs does not slow the idle, I'm still pretty sure you have a manifold leak and I suspect a big one. Check the engine codes, and if no codes show up, I would just go ahead and replace the intake manifold. You won't be out anything, as in the unlikely event it is not causing the problem now, it soon will be.
  • tsurnicktsurnick Member Posts: 42
  • tsurnicktsurnick Member Posts: 42
    I wanted to take a min and thank Tuscanskipper for his help with my LHS. I have a 94 model and was having the same problem. It took me several hours with one buddy helping but we were just having fun working on the car. The new manifold gasket made the car run alot better. Up till then, i had replaced the Brake booster. (it was taking vacuum from the manifold) then I replaced the throttle position switch the Idle control valve and the map sensor. they were all about 60-80 dollars a piece at the auto parts store. those 4 things along with the manifold gasket made my LHS run like a dream now.i have a freeze plug leaking anti freeze slowly but still leaking. thanks Tuskanskipper for your help.

    Any guidance on the freeze plug?

    Thanks

    tim
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    That is a hazardous situation for the engine, as leaking frost plugs are prone to fall out and instantly drop the coolant on the road and fry the engine.

    I recommend you drain the coolant. Then knock out the leaking frost plug and tap in a new one. Replace the coolant. Do this ASAP, if you don't want to walk!
  • tsurnicktsurnick Member Posts: 42
    what is the easyest way to take the frost or freeze plug out? it seems like it wont be too bad to get to but what do you suggest to remove it? I thought about sinking a screwdriver into it and pulling it that way. when i do ge the plug out, what is your recommended way of putting a new one in? I havent priced them as well but i am assuming they are not expensive. your thoughts?
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    They are cheap. This is something you might want to do, or have done on a hoist. If you give them a good rap off center they usually will pop out. If not you can bust a whole though them and lever them out.

    The new one has to be tapped home and well seated. It must not be crooked.
  • amgpamgp Member Posts: 5
    My 94 LHS with 44,000 original miles is now running great. It turned out to be the ignition wires that were causing the engine to idle and run very rough. Two of the wires had burn marks on the plastic boots that lead down to the plugs. They were so bad, that there were holes burned right through them. The car had been running rough for about the past 900 miles, but the check engine light never came on, and several different times I turned the key on-off-on-off-on to get the codes to flash, but it only gave me a 12 (battery disconnect) and a 55 (end of codes).

    Even though my problems were solved by installing new sparkplugs and wires, after reading so much here, and elsewhere, about bad intake gaskets causing problems, I went ahead and installed all new gaskets (2 air intake manifold, 2 fuel injector, 1 air plenum, 2 EGR tube, 1 rear coolant tube - this one wasn't available, so I made one out of a self-adhesive gasket sheet from NAPA -, and 1 thermostat housing gasket along with a new thermostat). I was kind of surprised to find that all of my original gaskets were in great shape, were sealing everything well, and showed no signs of breakdown. Oh well, I'll just chalk this project up as a bit of insurance for the future.

    Thank you for all of your help, tuscanskipper! I've concluded from one of your posts that you may live in Eagan. I live in Apple Valley, so if I see another 94 LHS around here, I'll give you a thumbs up. :D
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    I live at Benedict and Eagan. My shop is at Benedict, which is where I did the manifold gasket change. This plastic gaskets on the vehicle are really horrible aren't they?
  • joey535joey535 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 LHS that has been so good in the 6 yrs I've owned it however I have a problem I cannot resolve and I hate to take it to the dealer if it's something I can repair myself. The headlights will not come on. I have replaced the bulbs, checked all the fuses and relays in both fuse boxes and still no lights. I also bought a used headlight switch and installed that and that wasn't the solution either. Anyone here have any ideas on what I'm missing? I sure would appreciate any advice I can get to fix this problem. I do remember one night I was driving and they went out and came back on and I heard this "clicking" noise from the lower dash panel. That's why I suspected the relays but I switched them around and they are good. Again; any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • icehajicicehajic Member Posts: 1
    joe,the problem is head lamp dimmer switch/turn signal switch
  • kevinm1965kevinm1965 Member Posts: 1
    Anyone know haw to replace the rear minidrum shoes? Where to get them?
  • frazzled2frazzled2 Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone this is by far the best forum I've seen online. Hopefully someone can help me...My 95 LHS has been stalling and then hard to start. Engine cranks, turns but seems like its not getting gas. It will run fine for days, weeks ,sometimes months. mostly only stalls right after starting at slow speeds...sometimes 70 mph cuts in and out. I know the engine has a miss(shop told me). They said thats probably spark plug. would this cause the starting touble and engine cutting in and out? Also will drive great then park and come back later to starting problems. ANYHOW here are some codes I got from it.......12(battery dis),11,77,54,35,55(end code). Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I'm not buying into the intake manifold gasket...........its too expensive :shades:
  • gibbs01gibbs01 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 LHS with 50k easy miles. However this winter I lost the water pump and let it sit in the shop till now to fix. However when I went to start to move a little it started running so rough it really confused me. It sounds and acts like intake gasket. but I have a hard time believing that. I have had no problems in its life. after adding some stabil in the fuel and running for a bit, I had some smoke coming from the back side of engine (white colored, and hot). So I was looking for some ideas, anyone have any?
  • pevpev Member Posts: 1
    Hello, How did you solve the window off track problem. I have the same issue. Thanks,
    Kevin
  • gsongetaygsongetay Member Posts: 1
    my 97 lhs started losing power after i was driving for about 15 minuts, so i pulled it of the road for about 10 minuts and then tryed to start it, with zero results i then had to leave it there over nite and the next day went back to try and start it and it started right up and drove home with no problems ,i hit a deer with it about one year earlier and after that things started going down hill with it .
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    Sounds like a bad gasket on the EGR return on the back of the intake manifold
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    Check engine codes, and find out if you have spark when it won't start. If you have spark then it is likely a fuel problem
  • nebraska2nebraska2 Member Posts: 3
    I just replaced my Intake gaskets. ($170) Same symptoms as yours--plus a whistling noise that increased w/ RPM's. Listen Closely to this.

    Easy fix for your mechanic.

    Good Luck.
  • mrshady3006mrshady3006 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 LHS and it starts just fine but it wont go in gear(It grinds)i started driving and i heard and "clank" and now it grinds when i put in gear. also i can push the car when its in park,can anyone help?I dont know whats wrong. :sick:
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    Your options, are to pull the transmission and have it repaired, get a rebuilt transmission, or a used transmission. If the car has a lot of miles or other issues, it is the end of the road for that car.
  • swans500swans500 Member Posts: 4
    Hi....my problem with my 1996 LHS is: Even though battery is strong, the car will often not start without jiggling the key in the ignition for a while. Dash lights come on but the ignition is dead....then suddenly starts. It appears to be getting worse. Someone told me it was related to the alarm?! Car is old but has only done 50,ooo miles and runs like new in all other aspects.

    Thank you,
    Dennis.
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    You need to be more specific.

    Ignition is dead means there is no spark.

    Does the engine turn over or not before you jiggle the ignition key? If not then it may be the transmission inter lock, on which there was a recall.

    If the engine turns over but does not start then the list of causes is enormous. You need to check engine codes for a start, and then find out if there is spark or not. If there is no spark, then the problem will be no fuel, which could be a s simple as a fuel pump relay.

    If you are not used to auto diagnostics on modern cars, then you will need professional help.
  • swans500swans500 Member Posts: 4
    Hi Tuscan, thanks for the reply.

    Before the "jiggle" it does not turn over....there is no sound at all. The first turnover produces a normal start. Sometimes there is an instant normal start....no rhyme nor reason....hot or cold, whatever...
    When ignition is dead all dash lights etc turn on at each attempt, as would be usual.
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    I think your problem in that case is most likely a bad ignition switch or bad transmission/ignition interlock cable.

    See if jiggling the gear shifter also allows the car to start..

    You might also have bad battery terminal connections, a bad connection to the starter solenoid, or a bad starter solenoid.
  • tsurnicktsurnick Member Posts: 42
    I keep getting the check engine light comming on. when i check the code it is 33. I have looked it up and it says something about the wiring or such on the airconditioner compressor. I have put that plastic wire covering on the wires on the top of the compressor. I also took apart the connector and cleaned it completely. Any ideas on what else i can do ?

    Thanks

    Tim
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    I think you have miscounted the flashes, as code 33 does not make the check engine light come on, and the code is as you say. That fault code though definitely does not cause the check engine light to come on.
  • tsurnicktsurnick Member Posts: 42
    I will recheck it tomorrow and see if i count anything different. that was the only code that i saw except 55 which we know is the done code. ohhh. i know what i meant to ask you. where the headlights are, there are two lights that are totally round. they would be just between the headlights if you are looking at the car. one in each headlight assembly towards the Middle if you know what i mean. they have never worked as far a i know. what do i do to get them to work?

    thanks
  • rluckylrluckyl Member Posts: 1
    In the last 3 weeks I have (on my 94 LHS) replaced the front wheel bearings - put on 4 new tires - replaced the strut assemblies - replaced both the motor and trans. mounts and still have a high frequency vibration that can be felt in the steering wheel, seat and gas pedal (not real noticable at first, but wears on you after 15 min. or more of driving - wrist and hand starts to feel numbing) but only while in gear. Service station doesn't have any suggestion to go to from here. Any suggestions?
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    Obviously you did not replace the part at fault.

    Possibilities. You have a sized constant velocity joint. Remove the drive shafts and check carefully.

    The other possibility, is something amiss in the differential. On those cars the differential is separate from the transmission. It has its own drain and fill plug. A lot of people servicing those vehicles do not know that, and so differential service is missed until there is a serious problem.
  • stevie03stevie03 Member Posts: 1
    slb8d4 did you ever determine what was wrong with your 94 chry LHS. I was having the same problem. The gauges stop working and the tranny doesn't shift.

    Thanks
  • cooncoon Member Posts: 5
    I have a '96 LHS have got problem of my interior lights won't go out after the door is closed .Anyone know the remedy other than taking the fuse out which i have done?
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    Check the door switches, you most likely have one that remains closed contact and can not open contact.
  • tuscanskippertuscanskipper Member Posts: 43
    I have had a good look at the wiring diagrams. The gauges are driven from the Body Control module. The power control module sends signals to the Body control module and the transmission control module.

    My best guess is that the power control or transmission control modules are at fault, but I suppose it could be the body control module as all these seem to be intimately related.

    This is probably something you will not solve yourself.
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