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Comments
When I drive down the road my car shakes (violently) but only when I am accelerating. When I let off the gas the car rides very smooth but as soon as I accelerate again it starts to shake. I don't understand what could cause this. Please if you have any suggeestions... I'm a girl so any help will be GREAT!!!
Do not replace sensors, unless directed to do so by engine codes. You can read these from the check engine light, by turning the ignition key on off on quickly and counting the blinks from the check engine light.
Causes of your problem could be worn spark plugs, bad sparking plug wires, a bad ignition coil pack. It is possible that the crankshaft position senesor is going bad, but they usually fail totally.
On a car that age there are a few basics you should always do after purchase.
Change plugs and wires. Check brakes and CV joints. Check tie rods, ball joints and shocks. Change serpentine belt if any signs of ware or cracking.
If you don't know when they were changed, change the timing belt and water pump, these later need changing every 90,000 miles on these vehicles.
Now the LHS is known for intake manifold gasket leaks, which leads to irregular miss firing. Since this is an LHS this has a high probability of being your problem.
The gasket is made of a brittle plastic material. When you change it use an aftermarket one made if usual fibrous gasket material and you won't look back. If any of these vehicles have miss firing and the intake gasket has not been changed then this is something that should be done along with the list above.
There are basic things you just have to do when purchasing any used vehicle. Assume the last owner was an idiot and the dealer a crook. Start from that premise and you won't go wrong. Go through the vehicle when you first get it and then a used vehicle can give many good trouble free miles.
Gauges, air conditioning, message center NOT working.
I just found number 14 fuse (5 amp) blown. I replaced it and everything came back on momentarily and then the fuse blew again. I am assuming there is a short. Where do I look first? I got 3 trouble codes also.
1. Code 77 Speed Control Power Relay circut is open or shorted
2. Code 21 Problem with Oxygen Sensor Signal Circuit, Sensor Voltage to computer not fluctuating.
3. Code 12 Problem with the Battery Connection. Direct Battery Input to controller Disconnect within the last the last 50 ignition key-on cycles
The other possibility is that your used radiator is scaled up.
Checking for exhaust gasses in the coolant is you first step and should have been checked for after you changed the radiator.
with it boiling away I put the CO2 snffer to work making sure not to suck up any coolant, only the steam vapor... no signs of exhaust, shut the car off and the engine cooled quickly enough to empty the funnel into the engine, still steaming like crazy, so I put the rubber tip of the sniffer right in the bottom of the funnel so I know all it was sniffing was coolant steam, still no exhaust... which makes me a happy camper in that I dont have to tear into the engine.
So, either that nice clean looking used radiator is plugged up, or the water pump isnt circulating. I'll run a garden hose through the radiator when I pull the front covers off to change the water pump.
Good news about the exhaust gasses. One other thing you have to correctly orientate the thermostat. As in those vehicles if the thermostat is not rotated correctly it impedes water flow.
When you drain the water next time and refill, make sure the heater is full on, as otherwise you will never get free of air locks.
I have also seen reports that this problem can be caused by a grounding block behind the dash going bad.
Strange as it seems, this is a problem that could cost more than the car is worth to sort out and fix.
I would start with the ignition switch and see what you find.
the New ignition switch worked. It solved all the problems. The Airbag and abs lights went out, and the power windows worked as well as the heat and air. I am so glad since the cold weather is here. I can safely drive it again. If anyone has this same problem, I hope they see this post. Now all i have to do is some brakes and i think i should be good for now.
Thanks again..
Tim
any Ideas? bad ignition switch? I am confused
:confuse:
Does anybody have any ideas on what may be causing this or how to fix it?
Could you tell me what a code 36 would mean? I did the test you mentioned on a posting in 09 since I'm having problems with my a/c coming on and cooling good then going off and nothing.
Thanks,
Joe
I would make sure both electric fans operate.
However I would bet that your problem is gradual loss of Sarn 5 refrigerant. These A/C systems are prone to that.
Now unlike the old Freon, Sarn 5 is a mixture of gasses and the low molecular weight gasses are lost preferentially. This means the refrigerant can not be topped up. You have to drain and discard the whole refrigerant. New Sarn 5 refrigerant is then replaced to the correct pressure.
Expect to pay about $100 for this service. Make sure the tech adds lubricant with the refrigerant.
Uggg. The mechanic does't know what is going on at the dealership...but I'm still w/in my 30 days and I need to figure this out so I don't end up with a HUGE BILL. Any help from you guys would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!! Thank you in advance!!
The more we drive it...the worse it gets. It has also stalled out on us just sitting still a couple of times.
I've had a few mechanics tell me they think it might be the fuel pump....but I don't know.
I'm still w/in my 30 day warranty and I can't have the transmission or engine dying on me any time soon. The car is a 2001 LHS w/ 95,000 miles. We paid $3800 +fees. Any help you can give me would be AWESOME! Thank you!
Bought it 2 years ago and for no apparent reason it would not start...not a turnover, nothing and then suddenly did start....Chrysler put in a new ignition (in the wheel column, where the key fits in))...quite cheap and fixed that problem. Until several months ago the car ran like a dream but then, very infrequently, has done that "jerky pulling back thing", when cruising along at about 50/60. Also, occasionally....sitting at a light it just stops running....no spluttering, just cuts out. Often I don't even realise it until I hit the pedal to move off!!! Restarts straight away and that's it for a while.
Took it into Chrysler who said they could find no problem other than...."Don't let the fuel get too low"????!!!!
It still does these things, not often, maybe once every several hundred miles. But I am nervous about it now....so unpredictable, but seems like one of those things that the mechanics cannot see unless it occurs while in their possession. Which of course it never does!!!!
If no codes: -
1). Change fuel filter.
If no improvement: -
2). Check fuel pressure and make sure pressure is not leaking down after shut down. These vehicles are known for fuel rail leaks. There was a recall on it. Make sure it was done.
3). If idle is rough change intake manifold gasket. They fail on all these vehicles.
4). Change spark plugs and wires this is likely due anyway.
5). At the current mileage it is due to have the timing belt changed.
Always assume the last owner was a moron. Every time you buy a used car that age at that mileage, assume it needs to have at least $2000 spent on it to properly set it up. Usually for a time before sale vehicles are neglected, at least that is my experience.
The LHS is a really great car, and if you spend the money to set it up or take the time to do it yourself it will be a good performer.
All vehicles have known issues and these have less than most and not as serious as most.
People these days are so daft they expect vehicles to run for ever without maintenance!
hope this helps
To me this sounds like classic fuel starvation.
I would replace the fuel filter, so you know it is not plugged, then do a fuel pump pressure test. There is access for a gauge on the fuel rails.
My guess is you will most likely find it is a bad fuel pump.
Now lets see how I do on stump the chumps. Please post back when you know what it is.
By the way vehicles like the LHS are far too complicated for shot gun repairs, like was suggested to you. You have to be certain of the problem before changing parts.
I had that once and it totally puzzled me. For some reason I checked engine codes. The code was for a bad vacuum line. I found the line and replaced it and the horn stopped going off!
So there must be an interaction deep in the BIOS of the computer board between some codes and the alarm.
That is one of the weirdest problems I ever encountered on a vehicle.
The solution to my car not starting was a bad starter, but it was also the one wire that clips to the starter solonoid with a little clip that kind of looks like a speaker connector, just bigger. I actually could not find a replacement connector that was good. I went to a couple junk yards but they didnt have the starter or wiring harness. I called the Chrysler dealership and they said that they didnt sell that little clip by itself, but you could buy the entire wiring harness for about 400.00. This is the clip that hooks to the solonoid next to the battery cable. I think it goes to the ignition. What happend is that it got hot and melted a little and with some oil from the engine, the connector went bad. I found a 90 degree speaker connector and it fit perfectly. I did use some zip ties and criscrossed them to help hold the connector on. its been on there for about 6 months and holding now.
I hope this post helps someone even though its way late.
I will try to keep up with the posts better.
anyone know how to get scratch's out of a windshield from the windshield wipers?
their not real bad, just drive me crazy after a while.
Thanks
TS
This vehicle will need very careful assessment. Over heating is a very serious problem in modern vehicles since going from cast iron to aluminum heads.
When a modern vehicle over heats, there is usually another shoe to drop and often a closest full of shoes to fall.
Timing belts and water pumps need changing preemptively. For that vehicle every 90,000 miles.
My guess is the water pump leaked, but it is disturbing it got hot enough to shut the engine down. A timing belt braking just shuts the engine down, it does not cause over heating.
When you change a water pump on these cars you always change the timing belt and if you change a timing belt you change the water pump.
Now the intake manifold gaskets on these engines are made of a nasty plastic that gets brittle and fails. All these engines have this happen. Mine did. Over heating would certainly hasten this process along.
Replace the gaskets with better quality after market ones. I did mine myself.
I would not drive the car.
Have your mechanic do a test for exhaust gasses in the coolant. If there are, then there is a bad head gasket and or a cracked head from the overheating.
If there does not seem to be a problem there, and hopefully there is not, then turn attention to the intake manifold gaskets.
In these vehicles intake manifold gasket failure manifests itself in a unusual way, that stumps a lot of good mechanics.
It results in a lumpy idle. There is a strange irregular miss, that rotates around the cylinders. What is confusing is that as you pull plug leads, or injector connections one by one, there is no drop in rpm.
This leads mechanics on an erroneous search for valve timing problems!
Usually intake gasket problems result in engine loping, but not these!
Have your mechanic run the engine at idle, and hopefully it is shaking like mad. Then have him squirt carb cleaner under the plenum, just above the thermostat housing.
If the idle smoothes out as he squirts the cleaner, then the intake manifold gaskets need replacement. The fuel rails have to be removed so he needs those as well and a thermostat and EGR return gasket. It is quite a big job.
It took me two days, but I took it steady and I'm not a pro.
The other thing that makes this confusing, is that it generally does not show as a vacuum leak in the engine code, but it can. Mine did not, which really confused me.
Another thing to check out is your spark plug wires (also called ignition wires). My engine was running very rough, and it made the whole car shake. It turned out to be bad spark plug wires. I could actually see burn marks with small holes in the boot near the plugs.
Also, he checked the other things out for me once the engine was working again. He told me if I had any problems to stop back by on Monday, which I plan on doing, but I was just curious as to what it could be in the meantime.
I should reassure the owner, that these are very good vehicles and well worth the trouble and expense to set up properly.
There is no perfect vehicle. All vehicles become known for certain problems.
These vehicles are known for certain problems, and a lot less than most.
Problems: -
Intake manifold gasket problems top of the list.
I think the front ends are a little weak. In the 100,000 miles I did on my vehicle, I replaced the tie rods, ball joints and control arm twice. Now Minnesota roads have more than their share of potholes. However I always drove the vehicle with respect. The engine is a pretty heavy weight right over the front end.
Ignition switch problems. I never had that, but it is related to the high current required by the blower motor. You can mitigate this, by running the HVAC on auto. The the fan will have delayed start, rather than it blasting at start when there are a lot of high current demands from the ignition switch.
Water pumps prone to failure, as I suspect yours did. I never had this problem, but replaced mine on schedule with the timing belt. I replaced the tensioner pulley bearing also. I think this water pump problem is most likely related to setting the timing belt tension improperly at the time of replacement. Any belt too tight will take out bearings. If it is a water pump, it will cause a leak.
Trouble with the HVAC control unit. I did have this. When it fails the failure default, is heat full on at the defroster, fan speed max. This is a problem, as Chrysler charge a fortune for a new one. I ordered a rebuilt on line, but this had a different problem. Since electronics is my major hobby, I took a look at my unit and was able to fix it. It had a bad voltage regulator. However this is not a repair the average DIY mechanic would solve, or almost all professional mechanics. If you do have to service this, disconnect the battery, otherwise you risk deploying the air bags!
The only other major problem I had with the vehicle is that the air conditioner compressor ceased. My vehicle was 1994. That was before lubricants were available to add to SARN 5 refrigerant. After replacement it had lubricants added and the refrigerant drained off every two years and fresh refrigerant and lubricants added.
Those were the only problems I encountered from the time I bought the vehicle with 69,000 miles on it and sold it with 165,000 miles on it. That is a really good record. The vehicle drove like brand new at the time I sold it, a perfect drive and zero rattles.
So what should you do to set up your vehicle.
First sort out the current problem.
Put in long life platinum plugs and new plug wires. This will give you good performance for 100,000 miles
Do a thorough brake inspection and service as required.
Change serpentine belt if it needs it.
Service the transmission. Now here is another unusual thing about these vehicles. The differential is not in the automatic transmission case and is a separate service item, with its own fill and drain caps. A lot of mechanics and lube shops miss this and have trouble finding this gear case, but find it they must.
Once you set it up do regular maintenance.
I used synthetic oil, 5/30 and changed it every 7,500 miles. I never had to add oil between changes. The oil came out clean. With the oil change rotate tires and and inspect brake pads, and replace when necessary. Grease the greasers on the front end at this time.
Every 30,000 miles service transmission and diff case. Flush and change radiator fluid.
Lubricate doors and locks once or twice a year, and put a little graphite oil, on throttle body cables, hood and truck release cables.
Every 90,000 to 100,000 miles, replace timing belt, water pump etc, plus plugs and wires and use the highest grade platinum plugs.
I bought my vehicle in 2003 for $5000. I put 96,000 miles on it before selling it in December of 2010. I sold it for $2000 in ten minutes.
Now that was really cheap motoring. All the problems I had are listed above. The rest was expected maintenance. The ride was comfortable and quiet always.
So why did I sell? Well I'm now of an age, where I did not feel like doing the next 100,000 mile service. I did it last at 90,000 miles, the vehicle had 165,000 on it when I sold it.
The vehicle was just starting to bubble the paint over the rear wheel arches. Now this was a Minnesota vehicle 18 years old at sale, and it was in darn good shape compared to the competition.
I live in rural Minnesota, and I want to preserve my 1988 Suburban 6.4 liter diesel as a classic and keep it out of the salt as much as possible this winter. It now sports collector plates.
So I wanted an AWD vehicle. I can tell you I had a really hard time finding a new vehicle that was not a step down from the LHS. I finally settled on a 2011 Chevy Equinox LTZ. I really like it, fit and finish are superb, and this was the only vehicle in its class that had a quieter ride than the LHS.
However it only has just over 5000 miles on it. The Equinox had a completely new engine and power train in 2010. The 2006 to 2009 vehicles are grief. So I took a chance on this new platform. Only time will tell what these vehicles become known for.
What do you think I should do next? The mechanic has assured me that everything is okay with the head gasket, so I know that's not it. Should I have the spark plugs checked? Would that cause the check engine light to come on? And should I avoid driving it altogether until I can get it looked at again on Monday?