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Chrysler LHS

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Comments

  • billgolfer09billgolfer09 Member Posts: 18
    I know this has been discussed before - way back. Now I have a new 2001 LHS (which I love!) and I want to add this feature. Since the car is made in Canada (where they are required) I know there must be a simple solution. Can anyone tell me where to find the information on how to add them?
  • brianr5brianr5 Member Posts: 9
    I have seen this discussed in the 300M forum. I don't remember the details, but I seem to remember that there is a module that needs to be plugged into the fuse box. You might try posting over there. You'll be more likely to get an answer. There is a lot more action on that board.
  • tksatksatksatksa Member Posts: 30
    I'm posting to both the LHS and 300M discussions. We bought our '01 LHS last Thanksgiving (we're really happy with it, so far). At that time I turned down the extended warranty coverage from Chrysler. I thought that after registering the car there would be other warranty offers in the mail but that hasn't been the case.

    We received another warranty offer from Chrysler in the mail yesterday. In their brochure they say that a car as technically sophisticated as the LHS or 300M should have extended coverage. I agree. But I don't like the Chrylser coverage because the work has to done at a Chrysler shop.

    My question to all of you LHS/300M owners: have you purchased an extended warrany for your vehicle? If so, are you pleased with it? Would you recommend it to others?

    I appreciate your help. I've always found the discussions here interesting and helpful. If you would prefer not to respond here, please email me at tksatksa@hotmail.com

    Thanks.
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    I have posted this before on both LHS and 300M topics.

    Here is the scoop on DRL's.

    Though I haven't checked, I suspect that the module discussed next will fit on most recent Chrysler products OR there is one made to fit them because Canadian Chrysler product MUST have RL's installed on them. As I have been told by numerous dealers here in the US, NO extra wiring, etc., is required nor is it costly to activate RL's on these autos.

    Both autos are already built for DRL's. I have had them on my '99 LHS for several years. What you must do is obtain Molar part number 0460222AC from any dealer who will order it for you. List price is $78.50 and it is frequently available for discounts of up to 20 or more percent. The module is about 1 1/2 inches by 2 1/2 inches by 1 inch (depth). It has two sockets for both a 4 and 2 pin connection and fits, on these two autos, in the extreme upper left of the fuse block just under the black pull-off panel on the driver's side of the instrument panel.

    The module is inserted there, an existing wire is placed in the connectors and you have DRL's. Be sure to turn off the engine while you install it, but it is NOT necessary to disconnect the battery. Then, when you turn on the engine, you will get the low beam headlights to come on at about 1/3 power. This module does NOT affect either your automatic headlights, not the auto on for windshield wipers, or anything else. In other words, the auto remains exactly as it was but you now have DRL's.

    I bought my module fro POMOCO Cry-Plymouth in New Port News, VA by e-mail and UPS. I was able to get a 20% discount, making the unit cost $62.80 plus $3.93 UPS to me in Ashburn, VA (neat WashDC). POMOCO is PartsPomoco@aol.com, voice 703-833-8087, fax 703-833-0948; ask for Jonathan Evans, Parts Manager. I have had many other quote for much more money, but find out for yourself and enjoy this safety upgrade.
  • burr1burr1 Member Posts: 1
    I currently have a 1997 Concorde and am thinking about a 01 LHS. I was originally interested in the LHS because of its back seat and trunk. I only recently became impressed with its additional luxury features. However I was thrown for a loop when the dealer told me that the Concorde was slightly longer than the LHS. Is the 01 Concorde competitive with the LHS on size/ride or where did the extra room go? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • billgolfer09billgolfer09 Member Posts: 18
    To: mileshoover.
    Thanks for the info. Have ordered the module from my Dealer's Parts Dept. at a good discount (a little better than from POMOCO). They are not quite sure how to hook it up but believe their mechanics can figure it out. The full Mopar part number for the unit is 04602229AC.
  • billgolfer09billgolfer09 Member Posts: 18
    Just came back from my first road trip (700 miles). Car runs great; solid feel; very comfortable seating. Never felt the need to give up the driver's seat.
    Don't know how any reviewer could describe it's ride as a "road pillow". The window sticker described the suspension as "4-Whl Indep. Touring" and that it is. It is comfortably firm and rides "tight" around curves.
    Drove through snow, slush, rain and sun; the Michelin tires handled great through all conditions and were quiet.
    Engine is powerful. Good acceleration, even at 65 mph!
    This is a "can't go wrong" car, so far.
  • acco20acco20 Member Posts: 211
    Billgolfer09, Glad you are enjoying your new LHS. Would you please post the size and all the numbers that pertain to the Michelin tires. I have a 2000 LHS, it did not come with Michelins, but I will put them on as soon as needed. thank you.
  • billgolfer09billgolfer09 Member Posts: 18
    Burr1:
    If you don't need three people up front, you'll never regret getting the LHS. Differences in dimensions are superficial, having to do with body style and seating. The platform is the same for both.

    acco20: The tires are the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus P225/55R17 Blackwall. I believe these are now standard, at least on the LHS. Their speed rating is 98H ("H" = 130 mph tire).
  • billgolfer09billgolfer09 Member Posts: 18
    Re-read my LHS tires and they are 95H not 98H. The 95 Load rating is = 1521 lbs. (A 98 load rating would be 1653 lbs.)

    See these sites for detailed info:

    Tire Description:

    http://www.michelin-us.com/us/eng/tire/catalog/energy_mxv4p.htm

    Tire Speed ratings:

    http://www.michelin-us.com/us/eng/tire/guide/speed.html

    Tire Load ratings:

    http://www.michelin-us.com/us/eng/tire/guide/load.html
  • acco20acco20 Member Posts: 211
    Billgolfer09, Thank you... the info. will help when I am ready.
  • rotureaurotureau Member Posts: 2
    I have no problems to report but just comments... I recently purchased a '96 LHS and love it... it has 75,000 well taken care of miles on it (did the vin # search on carfax), bought from the same dealer who sold it to the original owner, etc... I think I basically "stole" it for $7800 (yes I had to have the inner tie rod ends replaced and put new tires on it (TOYO 800 Ultra Touring) and will have to do some work on getting some of the surface imperfections out of the clear coat, but everything else is in excellent to outstanding condition... I love the way this car rides on the road, the room, the appearance, etc... have no complaints... I am aware of the potential problems with the AC in this year model and prepared to deal with it.. This car came with the New Yorker style front split bench seat (would have preferred the buckets) but have no complaints with the ride and comfort of these.

    Anyway, just using this as an introduction and to say I have been reading this forum for about 3 weeks now and find it informative... I am sure I will have questions/problems to bring to the forum in the future and hope to be able to contribute as my knowledge of this vehicle increases...

    Bill (Mobile, AL)
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    I have a 2000 300M that was purchased back in October 18, 2000 and currently has 5,900 miles. About two months ago I began experiancing a loud and irritating rattle from behind the guages over any type of road and the rest of the dash creaks loudly over bumps. Some people on the 300M board have also experianced a lot of rattles and creaks while others say that their cars are absolutely perfect without any problems. After two different dealers and 3 all day visits, no one can find anything and only one dealer tech has ever heard some of the noises. I know that the 300M and LHS are very similar with identical dashes. Has anyone here experianced any rattles creaks in their 99, 00, or 01 LHS's?
  • manofbronzemanofbronze Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a '97 LHS. This summer I am going to purchase new tires (the originals are still on this one) and I saw a message previously about the Michelin MXV4 being "quieter". Has anyone got any info on the Eagle LS which is supposed to be quieter than the original Eagle GA's that are on this one?
  • jeffn3jeffn3 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 99 about 8 months ago and i also purchased a 5/100,000 warranty at the same time.. so far i have had only a few minor repairs and there was no problems or questions.
  • manofbronzemanofbronze Member Posts: 2
    After doing quite a bit of surfing on the web, I believe that the Michelin Pilot XGT V4 may be a little better than the MXV4's. Also, I found it interesting that the Goodyear Aquatred 3 rated better in noise, ride, and traction (wet & dry) than many high performance tires and they cost less. Go figure...

    Rotureau - Congratulations, My '97 cost $10,500 with 60,000 miles. Also, I have no problems to report. Like you I will be putting tires on soon.
  • rotureaurotureau Member Posts: 2
    jeffn3--- what company did you end up going with for your extended warranty if you dot mind me asking. BTW... enjoy your new ride..

    manofbronze--- thanks and congrats to you also... I also saw where the Good year Aqua 3 got great ratings in all depts... I ended up going with the TOYO 800 Ultra Premium Touring... about half the price of the Good year and with a 100,000 mile tread wear warranty.. a 100 day 3000 "bring em back if you don't like em" deal... so far I am impressed with the overall ride, quietness and both wet and dry traction, and handling response. Anyway, good luck with your search for tires and enjoy your car.

    Bill
  • jeffn3jeffn3 Member Posts: 2
    I bought it at the dealer thru chrysler of course. they offered other companies but they had what was called "qualified repairs", and all sorts of deductables. i had a friend who went with this company and he had to pay for the repair up front and then get reimbursed by the warranty company.. come to find out about 1 month later the repair wasnt covered cuz it was due to the failure of another part that wasnt covered on his warr. if u want my opinion stick with chrysler, they stand behind the car and dont give me any trouble and because of that my brother and parents went there and bought 3 new cars from them.. btw i purchased the 5/100,000 maximum care policy. i had my family mechanic take a look at all of them and he said it was the best bet..Good luck
  • pamelandpameland Member Posts: 2
    I spotted a '94 Chrysler LHS that I would like to purchase, but I'm wary of Chryslers due to past performance by a Chrysler Lebaron a friend of mine had purchased. The car looks to be in excellent condition however I know absolutely nothing about engines. It has quite a few miles on it (114,000). The price listed was 6,500 which according to Edumunds.com is too high but before I negotiate I would like some opinions on the reliability of this car. What should I expect?
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    As a former owner of subj auto, my short, brief answer is -- DON'T BUY IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.

    Mine, which I kept for over 100K, was a real bad auto. Had brake, transmission, water pump, and HVAC problems. All began occurring after the 36K warranty expired and continued to go bad for the rest of the time I owned it. But, got rid of it for a '99 LHS which had its own problems but is a much better auto. If you must buy an earlier LHS, get one such as a '97 (there was no '98) since most of the bugs were worked out of that year.
  • my2000lhsmy2000lhs Member Posts: 2
    Finally found time to have my driver's side armrest fixed.
    Dealer did a great job, 100% covered by warranty.
    They replaced the entire interior door panel top-to bottom, swapped out all the switches
    electronics, speakers, etc.
    Works well, looks good, tight, no rattles.
  • rbfrazerrbfrazer Member Posts: 3
    I was curious as to the cost of the extended warranty from Chrysler. I, too, have a 99 LHS and have been extremely happy with the car.

    Thank you
  • mwe5mwe5 Member Posts: 1
    We have a '01 LHS with 8,000. We recently had it in to a Chrysler dealer for some warranty work. Very minor. The service manager asked by wife if we had an extended warranty. She told him we did. He commented that this was a good idea...as if there would be some problems. We don't have an extended warranty but I am looking at one. Anybody with any "bad" news about the LHS? Thanks.
  • njeraldnjerald Member Posts: 689
    Just purchased a Chryslers extended warranty. 72 month/75,000 miles, $100 deductible, Maximum Care. Almost everything on the car is covered.
    Best price I found for a Chryslers Warranty was from www.chryslerwarranty.com. There are three levels of coverage with $0, $50, or $100 deductible choices.
    Price was much better than your normal dealer would charge.
    I expect to keep the car for 6 years and don't want any surprises.
  • sled1sled1 Member Posts: 6
    Looking for Feedback! I purchased my 2000 LHS 11 months ago. Since about 3000 miles the car started have a rough idle almost like a miss. No check engine light and no variation in the tack. The delership has had the car in numerous times! To date they have installed a copilot and down loaded the info to chrysler who says " the car operates within factory specs" The dealership and the Zone manager have tested each injector, coil pack, plugs the timing and for TB's etc. They admit he car idles rough but have no answers. Last week they performed a top engine cleaning. They thought maybe there was "carbon build up" Well, as I suspected the car still runs the same.. With 17,000 miles the car continues to idle rough. If anyone has had a similar problem or notices their cars running the same please advise. Also does anyone experience what they refer to as bump shift... when you feel like you got tapped from behind as you slow down and then start to accelerate, again I being told that it is do to software in the shifting of the trans by the computer.
  • golden51golden51 Member Posts: 4
    After I bought my 2000 LHS I found that its possible to buy Chrysler's warranty at a deep discount via the 'net. If interested check out the following: http://www.autoinvoice.com

    its a dealership in arizona that posts costs for warrantys at a discount. Even if you buy elsewhere do not pay anymore than this.

    OH...I LOVE MY LHS. 10,000 miles so far....oil changes only....not a single problem.
  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Member Posts: 94
    I've owned my Silver 2000 LHS for one year now with 17k miles. I have the chrome wheels, which are part of the things I love about this car, so easy to clean, and they shine awsomely. Also have the Moonroof and 4CD changer. I added the matching wood dash kit, which looks great.

    And like golden51, I haven't had any problems at all.

    Sled1- I'm really surprised to hear about your rough idle problem. The one thing I noticed and liked about this car is the smooth idling. Strange. The only thing that got my attention was a kind of humming noise when you first start the engine, then it disappears. Dealer said it was normal (vacuum noises from plastic top part?).
    Good Luck.
  • tksatksatksatksa Member Posts: 30
    BB: It is a great car; I've got an '01 Garnet Red that sounds as if it is similarly equipped. Got it last Thanksgiving weekend. It's only got 3600 on it so far (wife's car). We're really pleased with it.

    I lurk here and in the Concorde and 300M discussion groups - the 300M group is really active. I learned there that the humming you are talking about is the serpentine belt. It's a known problem and there is a TSB on it.

    "Dealer said it was normal" - typical dealer crap. It is typical but not normal or else there wouldn't be a TSB on it. My LHS humms too, it goes away after the engine heats up. When I get to the point where I need some warranty work done I will have the belt TSB done too. But it seems like a minor item and I figure the fewer times the wrench monkeys poke around, the better. For regular maintenace I take it to a mechanic I know and trust. A good, trustworthy mechanic is rare; when you find him(her?) hang onto them.

    Enjoy your LHS!
  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Member Posts: 94
    Thanks for your feedback, and the TSB on the serpentine belt. But like you, I don't like them touching anything but changing the oil. I'm even worried about taking it in for my first tune-up, I'm afraid they will mess up the way the engine is running and idling now, I wish I had a trustworthy mechanic I know, but I just moved and haven't found anyone good yet! Oh, well, back to the dealer and cross my fingers!
  • vega6vega6 Member Posts: 1
    Hello! I am totally new to this, so please bear with me. We recently (3 weeks ago) bought a 2001 LHS. It drives and handles great and love the look of it. BUT, last week I started the car, tilted the wheel down and heard wires sizzle and smelled something burning. Then the A/C-Heating system and windows stopped working,and the Airbag light and ABS/brake light went on along with a chime. However the car ran fine and everything else worked. Since being at the dealer since last Monday they've discovered a shorted ignition switch, when replaced it shorted within minutes. Now they're looking at individual wires to find the shorted wire causing the problem--real bummer after only three weeks of ownership and 940 miles. Has anyone out there heard of this or can anyone direct me to some help. The dealership seems to be at a loss.
  • tksatksatksatksa Member Posts: 30
    Sounds to me like a pretty classic case of a (serious) factory defect. I'd start discussions with the dealer for a replacement straight across the board - tell him you'll pay the rental for the 940 miles. Also, start documenting EVERYTHING - if you have a lemon law in your state you may need it.

    But they may find the problem and correct it. After a rocky start it may turn out to be the best car you've ever had. I hope it turns out that way for you. I've had my '01 LHS since last Thanksgiving and we really love it.

    Best of luck to you.
  • shaughney1shaughney1 Member Posts: 1
    I hav ea 2000 LHS and experienced an annoying rattle in the dash. took it to the dealer and after an all day effort the finally fixed the problem.
  • slickrick66slickrick66 Member Posts: 1
    During my routine oil and filter change I discovered gas in my oil. Talked to a few folks and figured it would have to be the fuel pressure regulator problem. Took it to a Chrysler Dealer and over $100 later I get six new plugs. The claim was the Bosch sparkplugs replaced in my last tune-up should not have been used. The 3.5 V6 was built with the Champion plug design in mind. Apparently, they said, the unburnt gas was getting into the crankcase during initial starts. Anybody have ideas, comments, or similar problems? The car was and still is running good. No smoke, idle problems, or poor mileage noted. ....hum, makes you wonder....
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    allpar.com , a Mopar (Chrysler) news site says that the LHS goes away after 2002, since sales haven't lived up to targets. Also, since the next generation is to be called LX, the LHS name is outdated.

    The 300M has taken the thunder from the LHS lately, so I can see why it is going away.
  • captainpscaptainps Member Posts: 3
    wanted to install the DLR module on my 2000 LHS. read the instructions posted by mileshoover. Can't seem to locate a fuse panel under the dash. the only one I can find is in the engine compartment. Has anyone done this installation??
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    The panel you want is located on the left inside end of the dash. Open the driver's door, pull off the black molded cover from the end. There is the terminal board you want.

    The DRL module fits into a socket at the extreme top left of the board. It has very little room to get a large hand in there but it can be done. The wire harness transfers to the DRL module. The low beam lights will come on at about 1/3 power each time the ignition is turned on. No other modification is done to the car's electrical system, i.e., wipers on for 10 sec. will result in full head lamp power and auto lamp operation is normal. Be sure to keep your headlight switch on "auto".
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    If you're thinking about getting a new LHS anytime soon, you better hurry up. The LHS IS being discontinued due to very dismal sales and the fact that the 300M is much more appealing to a lot of potential buyers. 2001 will be the last year for the LHS name but it will be back in another form for 2002. For 2002 the Concorde will be offered in LX, LXI, and Limited--the limited will essentially be an LHS. It will be virtually the same except for the fact that it will now have the Concorde's less extravagent dash and not the one it currently shares with the 300M. Production of the 2002 LH-cars starts on July 16 (or 6th), 2001 so get a move on it if you want an LHS just the way they are now.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    shaughney1- Where was the rattle located that you had fixed? We have had a 2000 300M for about 8 months now and it has subsequently gained more and more noises. It used to be just the main rattle behind the guages but now there are creaks in the dash sometimes and rattles & buzzes in the various panels around the interior. Two different dealers can't seem to fix even the gauge rattle after three all day visits. The car also has the very, very common shrunken weatherstripping around the door openings and a slipping transmission(oh no!). Has anyone here with a 99' or newew LHS experianced any rattles/creaks/buzzes, the shrunken rubber stripping, or a sloppy transmission? I know that the 300M board is very active with problems like these but I don't know about the very similar LHS.

    Our 300M pics
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    beach15 -- I have experienced all of your problems except, so far, the slipping transmission. My LHS is an early '99, build in 4/98. 'Course, I had to have one immediately and paid for it in early troubles. Most of my problems are archived in this section. I had gross transmission problems with my '94, built in 4/93 and for the same reasons.

    The fix for the weather stripping is to replace it. There was a new stock of them put out in '98 and may have been replaced again. Problem was improperly made product. Chrysler advised that the producer messed up. Stock numbers at that time are in the archives (if you have trouble locating them, yell, and I'll dig up my own archives.

    Buzzes & creaks were repaired by installing a new windshield. My LHS was so stressed out that the glass broke in the first few months. The next glass was installed by a dealer of my choice and done properly at Chrysler's expense.

    I had some HVAC problems in that the blend doors were either out of sync or not installed properly.
    Once fixed, all is fine.

    The slipping transmission on my '94 needed to be replaced simply because it quit working in the shift from 3d to 4th gear. That happened just after 36K but Chrysler honored the warrenty which had just expired.

    Lesson to be learned -- don't buy an early version of any car, especially Chryslers. Someone please kick me you-know-where when I buy the next one, whatever.

    About dealers and hard to find/fix rattles, etc. I hate to see them blamed for what is an assembly problem. We all need to insist that better quality is put into auto production. By that I meant that we must be vocal, refuse to accept cars and drive them well before accepting. But even then we will get screwed.

    Comment about the LHS and its lack of sales -- IMHO it is all Chrysler's problem due to lack of advertising. The intro models of the '94 and '99 set off gang-busters in sales, but Chrysler's lack of product quality soured people on the car (and not only the LHS).
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    How were the buzzes and creaks cured by a new windshield? I'm not sure I understand what you mean here. Did by replacing the windshield actually fix the noises or what? Do you know why it broke in the first place? Our car was by no means an early build because it is a 2000 that was built in March of 2000. Several magazines have done long-term tests with early-99' 300M's and didn't seem to have a single problem at all. One didn't mention anything about rattles or creaks and the other two actually commented on the fact that their were none in their cars even after a considerable amount of abusive miles. They seem to get the "better" ones that come off the line.

    On the 300M board there is a member whose screen name is ottowrkr and he just happens to work in the factory that builds the LH-cars in Canada. He has been very helpful on a few occasions and even helped me on where the rattles may be coming from. However, since the dealers cant fix them, I am in no way going to tear anything apart myself. I asked him about the quality of these cars and while he said that each year they get better and better, there will always be a few on the assmebly line that dont really take the time necessary to do their job right. Hence, the creaks and rattles and some poorly fitting panels around the car. Maybe if this car came out of a Toyota factory, it would be a lot better.

    I dont think we need a new windshield yet, nor will we need one in the future but thanks for the info. I know that the dealers cant make up for having to fix the manufacturers mess-ups but they could be at least a little nicer and willing to help/fix what is wrong.

    Deep Slate y2k 300M
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    The windshield was somehow installed in such a manner as to be STRESSED; it cracked while I was driving within weeks of delivery, apparently just from the motion of driving the auto. There was no impact damage, I was driving on a freeway when the crack occurred.

    Since I was the only one who had been driving it, no other conclusion about why it cracked could be made. The front and rear glasses are quite large in proportion to the body metal and are bonded into place, contributing in a large way to body integrity, strength and other forces working on the body.

    Once it was replaced properly, the creaks and rattles in the dash area disappeared. Maybe the original windshield's bonding and installation was faulty. The installer said that the original windshield had been stressed which caused it to break from body twisting while driving. Also, he saw places where the adhesive was missing from the frame.

    In any case, once the new windshield was installed, no more creaks and rattles in the dash area were evident. More than that I cannot say other than the fact that, in this case, IMHO, the auto was not manufactured properly.

    I am not an abusive driver; in fact, the LHS even now has only 34K on it after almost 36 months in service.

    Not suggesting that you replace your windshield, just advising what occurred in my case and perhaps you may want to alert your dealer to investigate whether or not your windshield is bonded fully to the body. That lack of bonding apparently was the cause of my rattles and creaks.

    Regarding dealers being more willing to assume manufacturers problems, would you be willing and funded to pick up and repair all the mistakes of your product supplier if in such a position? Once in a while is one thing, but constantly fixing sloppy work soon gives one the "willys" of doing business and makes you want to seek a better supplier.

    Unfortunately, all the suppliers slip up, even Toyota. My experience with DC has been abysmal, even with the Benz side. I understand that the dealer should be reimbursed for such work, but isn't always or fully so. Yet the dealer wants you to return for future business, so they eat too much of those expenses and lose money. Also, customers become very unhappy to have such problems constantly repaired at the dealer level.

    My '99 LHS just about lived at the dealer for the first two months while putting right manufacturer's build problems. It ain't right!!
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Now that you have explained what happened with your LHS I understand what the windshield had to do with the noises. A lot of the creaks and rattles sometimes come from that area but the rest seem to be in other parts of the dash, door panels, and other interior parts. This info. is very interesting though and I'll have to check it out. Although this is my wife's car, I have to listen to her complain about what the car is doing. In the first 3 months everything was absolutely perfect. The car ran smooth, tight, and evrything worked terrifically. Then we hit month four and it has digressed ever since. Now, with only 8,000 miles, everything in and around the car sounds and feels loose and shaky and the initial charm is over.


    We just went out to get some flowers today and when I heard one of the rattles, I tried to find where it was coming from this time. My wife just said "Don't even bother, I'm so used to it, I just turn the radio way up and wait for the damn thing to shake itself apart around me." She's not very happy with her $30 grand investment anymore. We'll just have to get used to it I guess because we have a 5-year loan on this thing. Maybe if we keep complaining, the dealer or Chrysler can help fix something.


    What colors are your LHS? Noise is an ongoing issue with these cars, especially early models. How is your car in this regard? Have you checked out our pics yet?


    Rattly 300M

  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    My LHS is champagne beige pearl with the tan leather interior.

    I specicically didn't like the cheezy black plastic rear view mirrors, so I took them off, took them apart and refinished them in body color. Other than that, the only other mod to the car was to add DRL's, using the Chrysler module to add that feature as used on all Canadian auto. It works well and the mirrors add needed class. My auto came with gold metallic stripes added just below the horizontal crease and has the 5 chrome 17" wheels.

    My Goodyear OEM tires died at 32K when one blew out at 65mph on a freeway. Strangely, the auto did not swerve; I was able to pull over safely. But my next stop after changing the tire/wheel was to the local Michelin dealer where MSX's were installed... A great improvement to the LHS's driving capabilities.

    I just looked at your pics; they look great and illustrate the problems well. BTW, I had early failure of the windows to retract and found that the problem was not the window motors, but was the fact that all windows were sticking fast to the door window seals. Those seals also were replaced. I figure Chrysler has spent a small fortune rebuilding my auto via the dealer. Go figger!
  • djhillsdjhills Member Posts: 1
    Purchased 2001 LHS April 1st. While I am relatively happy with the car, I to am experiencing what is refered to as "Bump Shift".
    The car only has 2,500 miles so I haven't brought
    this up with the dealer yet, waiting for 3,000
    mile check-up. This problem is quite disconcerting
    is this fixable ? Is anyone else having this problem ? will this get worse ?
    feedback please !
  • tksatksatksatksa Member Posts: 30
    I'm sorry to hear about all of the problems you've had. My '01 LHS is the first Chrysler I've ever had - absolutely no experience in the family (parents, aunts, uncles, etc). We got our Garnet Red LHS last Thanksgiving and we absolutely love it. No problems at all, so far. I'm not gloating - just trying to present the general picture.

    I absolutely agree with you about lack of sales. I think Chrysler sacrificed the LHS for the 300M. As proud as we are of our LHS we always scrutinize Chrysler ads on TV looking for the LHS. You just never see it. I know the 300M guys love their cars - their town hall is extremely active - but I could have gone either way and chose the LHS because I thought it was the classier of the two. I still do. And the fact that there seem to be fewer LHS's out there just makes our feel that much more distinctive.

    I hope things go better for you in the future.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Our 2000 300M has the so-called "bump shift", though I call it slipping. You can feel it when slowing down and then reaccelerating at around 5-10 MPH. I've had many cars before and know that the transmission is slipping but I can't figure out why--probably another dumb computer screw-up. Or, because of the fact that Chrysler themselves has said before that the transmission in the 300M and LHS isn't that great and could be improved. We haven't gone to the dealer as of yet but may in the future.
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    Unless your bump is very pronounced, it probably is normal. Any automatic xmsn can be made to do that by lifting your foot off the gas and then pressing down, particularly at low speed. The xmsn must "think" where it is in order to select the correct gear. In the lower gears (1st and 2d) the bump will be pronounced if you hit the gas hard.

    LH autos all have this problem to some degree. The fix, I have found, is to drive more smoothly and anticipate this problem.

    Yes, the xmsn could be smoother; maybe one of these days. If your car, in fact has too much "slop", it can be fixed by the dealer.

    After 2 LHS's, mine did not get worse but on my '94, the xmsn died in shifting between 3d and 4th, requiring a new xmsn in my case after 36000 miles. Chrysler bore the 3k expense even though it was out of warranty. This was before Benz was involved, though.
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    I was able to easily fix a noise problem (fluttering-buzzing sound at highway speeds - actually a TSB was issued for this problem) that seemed to come from somewhere near the windscreen. It turned-out to be the cowling (black plastic strip) along the edge of the bonnet or hood was loose - especially on the passenger-side corner. This can easily be fixed by cutting some plastic strips and inserting them (in a vertical orientation) into the clips that hold the cowling to the bonnet. Make sure that these strips are of a sufficient dimension to hold the cowling tightly and not work loose.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Can't believe my luck. A fellow poster in the Intrepid topic picked up on my weatherstrip complaint and mentioned your post. I have the same problem with the rear doors on my 2000 Intrepid ES. Are aware of any TSB's (announced or unannounced) or recalls on this?
  • Rn13Rn13 Member Posts: 2
    is the resale value on this car decent?
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