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Chrysler LHS

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Comments

  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    How many can a person watch at once. I find that the two I have is plenty, four at the most. The 2 2.5" screens on each of the doors are useless. Who can watch a screen on the steering wheel?, unless you have a head like an owl. Most were well excuted (except for the passangers side dash) well into the car. But to me it was like feeding caviar to Pigs, a waste.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Drive=Love, at least for me it has been the case. So far no (Acura) tranny problems or any others. Would I buy another? No, I love the one I have.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    300michael-

    "Drive=Love, at least for me it has been the case. So far no (Acura) tranny problems or any others."

    LOL... ME EITHER!!! Love my CL-S!

    fastdriver
  • marknelmarknel Member Posts: 3
    Have a 2000 LHS, 39K on it and last night after a very hard stop (ended up approx 4 inches from the bumper in front of me) the speedometer wasn't working and it isn't shifting down or up while in drive. Stalls when you stop and have it in drive, wont stall if you put it in low.
    Shortly there after (5 min or so) the check engine light came on.

    Had it towed to the dealer after waiting 90 min for a tow truck.

    And now the realllll kicker?

    All of this happens 3k out of Warrenty.

    sigh.

    thanks for letting me vent
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Member Posts: 122
    Sounds like the speed sensor in the tranny a somewhat common problem on the 300M board. not very expensive. See link for more info.


    http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm23.showMessage?topicID=1.topic

  • acco20acco20 Member Posts: 211
    My 2000 LHS is ready for new tires. I am looking for quiet,long lasting all weather tires. I sometimes drive a little fast but am not concerned with high speed cornering etc. It has been suggested that I get Michelin energy MXV4 Plus. My size is P225/55R17. Does anyone have experiance with these tires, and are you happy with them. I do want Michelin, just not sure these are the exact ones. Thank you...
  • valhsvalhs Member Posts: 63
    I switched to Dunlop SP Sport A2's a long time ago. The size is 235/55R17. There are no clearance issues or rim width issues with moving to 235's. Go to tirerack.com before you make the leap. Read the reviews of true ownership experience. They cost around $112 apiece with 420 treadwear, AA temp and A traction. Many on here have used the Yoko Avid's but complain about sloppy handling when driven hard. The Dunlops are a great blend of long tire wear, great ride and excellent handling.
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    I have the Michelin MXV4 tires on my '99 platinum LHS for about two years now. Put them on at 32K; now have about 47500 miles. Car was delivered 4/27/98. I don't drive very much anymore.

    They are fine; however they are expensive. Paid over $800 for 4 of them mounted and balanced on a Bear machine (essential, IMHO). I now longer rotate 5 wheels and kept the best Goodyear as my full-size spare. They ride smoothly with minimal noise. Just had them rotated yesterday (do it every 5K) and keep 34 # psi in them at all times. No vibrations, no problems. Since these are V-rated tires, they may be overkill IF you are not a very fast driver. But I was plagued with vibration and noise with the OEM Goodyears and I wanted some quality tires.

    Bought mine at NTB, now a Sears affiliate. Used to be known as NTW. Chief difference is that NTB now additionally carries Sears batteries and tires. (This is in the WashDC area, but NTB is not just in this area). Dunno where you are. :^))

    Yell if you need any further info or send e-mail as listed in my profile.

    Good luck.

    Miles
  • daripper2kdaripper2k Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, I'm a proud owner of a 99 LHS. I've had for about a month and so far no problems. I did notice that the engine is a little loud when idle though, has anyone had this same experience?
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    I have the same car, now at about 47.5k. It definitely is not loud at idle. Matter of fact, I can barely hear the engine at idle.

    Suggest you check your exhaust system for a hole.
  • daripper2kdaripper2k Member Posts: 2
    I also notice the car downshifts a little harder than normal. I read in prior posts that some had their trans serviced and it worked fine afterwards.

    Any recommendations?

    thanks, BTW Good to know this message board is here to help answer questions many dealers try to avoid.
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    Early-built '99 LH autos (LHS, 300M, Concorde, and Intrepid) had Type III transmission fluid installed in them. Since Type IV (4) came out later in the model year, Chrysler indicated all owners should change to Type IV as it was a much-improved tranny fluid. Mine did and I changed around 15K; it makes a very large difference plus the transmission will last longer as Type IV is a better lubricant. Look on your driver's door sticker for build date; if it is in '98, the car has Type III for sure.

    Any good Chrysler dealer should be able to tell you which type of tranny fluid is in your car. Any decent Chrysler dealer (most of them) will welcome your business and usually has good service writers. If your dealer or writer is not so good or is giving you a hard time, find another writer or dealer. BUT tell the service manager why you are unhappy and leaving for another place!! Amazing how well that works. Likewise, if the service manager is a dud, see the General Manager. His income depends upon keeping customers happy.

    BTW, be sure that you have the transmission flushed first before installing the Type IV fluid. Use ONLY Mopar products in Chrysler transmissions.
  • fastdog1fastdog1 Member Posts: 19
    I have two 2000 DC products, my Caravan uses Type III and my LHS uses Type IV. The reason I question you is my Dodge dealer tried to service my transmission that uses Type III with Type IV because that is what they are buying in bulk. DC switched to Type IV in the later Caravans. I have a friend who is a service manager for Dodge and his transmission mechanic just got back from DC school and right now there is not an approved method or recommendation from DC to switch fluid types. Your dealer may be doing this out of convenience My service writer could not show me a TSB for changing fluid types and realized I knew what I was talking about. We should all know as DC owner's that fluid type is critical in DC transmissions whether an LHS, Caravan or whatever. Yes, Type IV is a much better product,(severe schedule is 48K instead of 15K) but until I see something from the manufacturer I would be careful about switching.With the high rate of DC transmission failures, many times they have offered a goodwill repair out of warranty, if you have serviced it with the wrong fluid you can kiss that good-by.
    If you have more info please pass it along.
    Best Regards.
  • fastdog1fastdog1 Member Posts: 19
    daripper2k......
    There is a TSB for an "engine growl", this happens just accelerating out of idle. My 2000 has it and been worked on several times with not much success. The repair call for tighting of the belts. I just live with it as one of the quirks of the car. At idle rest is very quiet.
    Best Regards.
  • muskateer3muskateer3 Member Posts: 103
    fastdog1

    I have these on my 2000 300M (225/55/17). My complaints are tire noise, edge tread wear and a pull from one of the tires.

    I will be looking elsewhere for my next set. I originally thought of Yoko YK420, but after reading the posts here about sloppy handling, I am now leaning towards the Dunlops (SP Sport A2 -235/55/17)
  • acco20acco20 Member Posts: 211
    Thank you, to those who answered my question about tires. I ordered new tires today. I decided on the Michelin Energy MXV4 PLUS. All reports say I should enjoy a safe, smooth, quiet, ride. Again... thanks to those who responded.[ LHS 2000}.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    if you look on the back of the bottle of Mopar ATF +4 trans fluid you will see that it reads that it can be used in place of +3 . I just put the +4 in my 94 Trep that calls for +3. Works great.
  • fastdog1fastdog1 Member Posts: 19
    I'm glad it's working for you. I sent your post to my friend and here is his response....

    "The same technician was the transmission expert at ..... Dodge and we talked about ATF+4. He said do NOT use it in an ATF+3 transmission yet.He said it wasn't really wasn't a problem with the seals, but the TCM and PCM weren't programmed for the different characteristics of ATF+4 and it would give you problems." end quote

    At least if you start to have problems you can isolate the reason. If it works, your transmission will love you for giving it a better fluid. I'm sure DC will work this out soon.
    Best Regards
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    I also have a buddy who works at our plant but was the tranny guy at a local dealer and he told me to use the ATF+4. Also when I see the rep from the trans plant that visits us at our plant every now and again I will ask him . Its his tranny he should know.
  • lonestarsledlonestarsled Member Posts: 226
    I am trying to find the "winged" analog clock trim that was installed in the '99 LHS (agate color). Went to the dealer and ordered the correct part number but was sent the current part instead. Any assistance in finding this part would be greatly appreciated!!
  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Member Posts: 94
    I just reached 40k miles on my 2000 LHS, and I'm thinking of replacing the brake pads before they get too thin. Has anyone replaced the brakes with any aftermarket pads, or do you think that the chrysler pads are good enough. I like them myself, hardly any brake dust on the chromes, and no squeeks or noises when you apply the brakes.

    The reason I'm asking is because my mechanic is telling me that aftermarket brakes are much better than the factory's, but I'm still leaning towards the same pads. Any suggestions...
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    I had the exact information and part number you want just a few weeks ago, but deleted it from my PC. I originally got it from "Scotian" on the 300M board who ordered and installed the Agate "winged" clock piece in his 00' M. I'll try and dig more up, if I can.
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Member Posts: 122
    As I asume you already know your LHS has the same brakes as the 300M.
    These guys can tell you more than you want to know about brake pads

    http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm26

    Just remember there are two types of pads the good dust free factory originals and the cheaper factory replacements with a lot of dust.
  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Member Posts: 94
    Thanks !
  • lonestarsledlonestarsled Member Posts: 226
    bb_lhs_2k - many of the 300m folks have tried to better the original brake setup using everything from slotted/crossdrilled rotors to semi-metallic pads. All of these "enhancements" only gave them noisy, overly sensitive brakes with short pad life. Stay with the original type setup. Ceramic composite pads upfront and semi-metallic pads on the rear.


    Here is a good alternative to the OEM pads for the front:


    http://www.raybestos.com/quietstop.htm

  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Member Posts: 94
    You're right, it's best to stay with the original setup. I've also read that a few people had bad experiences with noisy "raybestos pads", so I'm staying with OEM pads. But I was really surprised to find out that the dealer would replace the pads with cheaper ones than the pads that came with the car. If jab02lhs didn't mention it, I would have never known about it. I'm wondering now if the price the dealer quoted me of $220 for replacing the fronts is for the cheap $30 pads or the original $120 pads. I guess I'll find out.
  • fastdog1fastdog1 Member Posts: 19
    I would go to the parts department and ask to see the two pads side by side. $220 for sounds like a quote for the OEM pads, my dealer always has coupons for $109 and I'm sure that is a refurbished Mopar Value-line pad. You have to make sure you can identify the pads to see if you have an honest service department.I know this is a pain but go home after the job and take a wheel off and check it out.
    Best Regards
  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Member Posts: 94
    I think you were referring to me, not lonestarsled. Anyway, I was planning to definitely go to the parts department and check them both out, and I thought of possibly buying the good pads, and then paying just the labor to have them installed. (which, by the way, doesn't guarantee that they won't switch the pads anyway. I honestly don't trust any mechanics. But I will check them afterwards, like you said). Thanks.
  • bb_lhs_2kbb_lhs_2k Member Posts: 94
    There's an auction on ebay for a "winged" analog clock trim that you asked about, but I'm not sure if it's agate. Check it out:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1873604716
  • lonestarsledlonestarsled Member Posts: 226
    Thanks for the info!!! Emailed seller about color, looks like a dark brown, but do not recall that color ever being available.
  • dpapagolosdpapagolos Member Posts: 2
    I am looking to buy a 2001 LHS. This car looks to be in perfect shape. I was wondering if the Quality issues experienced with the 99-00 models are still all evident in the new 01 or have some of the issues been resolved? The dealer with this car has offered it to me for 13,500 it has sunroof, chrome wheels and 54k on it and comes DC certified to 80k. Is this a good buy?
    Thanks in advance
    Dan
  • lonestarsledlonestarsled Member Posts: 226
    What quality issues have you heard about for the 2000 model? I have a 2000 LHS w/15k and it has not had a single problem.
  • dpapagolosdpapagolos Member Posts: 2
    those dealing with the many visits to the dealership. Chrome wheels leaking, clunking over bumps, not shifting properly. Leaky gaskets, sunroog issues just all the crap that all the unhappy people complain about in here. Just hoping to get a great car for a great price. I have always loved Chrysler since my 2 lebarons in the 80's and 90's 200k+ on both of them
    Dan
  • lonestarsledlonestarsled Member Posts: 226
    No quality issues with my 2k LHS, never been back to the dealer since I purchased it in May of 2000 except to pick up my license tags. I do my own maintenance. I was reluctant to pay 30k for a front wheel drive vehicle but have been pleased so far. You could not have given me a Chrysler product during the 80's and early 90's. I always considered them 2nd rate vehicles.

    The only "complaint" that I have is that the interior panels are very thin. You may have read that some peoples armrests and console lids have cracked. You can tap on the armrests and the interior door panels and they ring like a drum head. I noticed this very early on and am careful when i move around in the vehicle not to put to much stress on the armrests or console.

    So far I have been very pleased with the purchase.
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Member Posts: 122
    Paid 25,500 for my 01 fully loaded last Nov. So your price is almost half that.
    Only problems were wind noise from the drivers door.
    They replaced the door rubber and re aligned the door and the noise was gone.
    At about 12k the air bag cover in the steering wheel started to peel a very little but was replaced with no hassle.
    Now up to 18k with no problems.
    Have had MOPARS since '69 and this is the best of the bunch.

    "I LOVE THIS CAR"
  • valhsvalhs Member Posts: 63
    You've already eliminated the biggest problem with Chrysler cars, depreciation. You're getting a $32,000 vehicle for less than half price, that should tell you something. The rule of thumb for ANY car is finance no more than 36 months and you'll never be upside down. Not true with Chryslers. Do the math. $32,000 purchase price, 0% interest, after one year you'll still owe $21,333. You'll be lucky to sell for $15,000, hence you're a minimum of $6,000 in the hole.

    Now for the issues:

    1) Dealer service experience for most is less
    than exemplary. For $32K you can buy a Acura,
    Lexus or Infiniti and get real service. Free
    loaner, etc.
    2) Faulty power lock
    3) Speed sensor - puts tranny in limp mode won't
    shift out of second gear
    4) Shrinking weather stripping
    5) Melting steering wheel material
    6) Rubber around headlights prone to detaching
    7) Electrical problems - Headlights flicker when
    in automatic position
    8) Tranny hard shifts and shudders
    9) Excessive wind noise around front doors
    10) Leaking and corroding chrome rims
    11) Paint - excessive chipping - discoloring of
    plastic body panels vs. steel panels -
    especially on white vehicles
    12) Original tires, Goodyear Eagle LS's pure junk
    13) Driver's seat moves under acceleration

    I think I'll stop at 13. Appropriate. Don't blaze me too hard, I haven't ranted for months.

    cvp
  • acco20acco20 Member Posts: 211
    Some time ago someone posted a suggestion as to sticky windows on 2000LHS. You pull on the power window button and no movement from the window... eventually I did get it to go down. I can not remember what the suggestion was to help avoid this problem. Can anyone help? Thank you.
  • tksatksatksatksa Member Posts: 30
    acco20: The suggestion I heard was to clean the windows and apply talcum powder to the weather stripping where the windows seal.Hope this helps.

    Happy Holidays, All!
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Member Posts: 122
    Just open them at least once a week, all four to break seal between glass and rubber. Have done this with no problems for over a year. Of course I clean the black marks off when I was the windows about every other week.
    If window does stick two things you can do.
    1. Run credit card up inside of window to break seal with top rubber.
    2. Lightly hit top of window with side of your fist while pushing window button.
  • acco20acco20 Member Posts: 211
    Thank you for your response to "windows".
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    valhs-

    Mmmmm.....ONLY 13? ;-))))))

    fastdriver
  • valhsvalhs Member Posts: 63
    Most here are tired of hearing me whine. Let's face it, if you never have a problem and don't trade-in every 2 to 3 years, you feel like you're driving a great car. It's only when you go to trade and you're offered $10,500 (reality) or you start having the problems that you realize you've made a horrible mistake.

    Don't get me wrong, I still love the style, size, ammenities and power for its class. It's everything else that I hate, reliability, dealer service, resale, fit and finish, etc.

    cvp
  • jglackinjglackin Member Posts: 164
    This is my first post to this board. Not only do I own a 2000 LHS, but I also sell Chryslers. It is very troubling to hear complaints about these cars, since all of them can be easily fixed. Someone, in an earlier post, advised frank discussions with service writers, service managers, GM's, etc. If you are not satisfied in this manner, take your business to another Chrysler dealership - I would recommend a Five Star dealership since the techs there have received a much higher level of training on average.

    I am glad to see that most of you are satisfied with your vehicles.
  • mileshoovermileshoover Member Posts: 122
    I have found that many 5* tech's and service writers are not trained as well as they should be. And/or they aren't supervised properly or their mistakes wouldn't be released to the owners.

    Smaller dealers seem to be more motivated, especially in the case of service writers whose expertise is the key to the whole service operation.

    But, the complaints heard here in the past 4 years are very typical of the Chrysler product line, in my opinion, as a current owner of a '99 LHS and former owner of a '93 Concorde and '94 LHS.

    All suffered from lack of build quality on the line when built. The product MAY improve with age as the line develops through subsequent years. Unfortunately, I always buy the newest product innovation and get stuck with an unfit product.

    The dealers concerned had to do things to my autos that they should NOT have been forced to do had the autos been assembled properly and correctly. Such as realign misfitted doors, deteriorated or shrunken weather strips, misaligned hoods and trunk lids, sticking windows, and God only knows what else. Also, there are design and supplier problems that seem to be more evident in the Chrysler line than on some other domestic brands. For example, why in the name of sanity did the designers force one to remove the entire front end cover to change a headlight bulb?

    Once fixed, in my case, the autos run fine and look fine. But...
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    You have had more problems then I have had on all my Chryslers for the past 30+ years. You got the bad LHS, and fastdriver got the bad 300M.
  • valhsvalhs Member Posts: 63
    I agree. But you're missing the total equation. I have the trifecta. Not only did I get a bad car, I got a bad dealer (yes it's a 5 star) and terrible resale value. Problems with any 2 year old vehicle are annoying at best. This only becomes worse with every botched service visit. Then, when you've had enough and you try to trade it, it really hits you. $10,500 for a 2 year old, $32,000 vehicle?!!!!! You've got to be kidding me. So even with the 0% financing I'm $8,708 upside down?! Excuse me?!

    To put that in perspective. If I burned a $20 bill every 15 minutes in my backyard. It would take nearly 7 days burn $8,708, assuming I can sleep 8 hours a day after the burn. Used toothbrushes on Ebay have better resale value! Please show me another $32,000 near luxury vehicle that depreciates 67% in 2 years. Infiniti, Cadillac, Lincoln, Mercedes, BMW, Lexus, Sabb, Volvo? I know of no other car make with these kind of numbers.

    DRIVE = BEND OVER SUCKER

    cvp
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    valhs-

    LOL...... You got the ONE bad LHS and I got the ONE bad 300M!! LOL............................................................................ I bet Chrysler wishes that was true!

    fastdriver
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Actually, your dealer was worse then the car.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    300michael-

    Correction- DEALERS/FACTORY REPS. Yes, they were actually MUCH worse than Christine. However, for the way Christine was treated, she was NOT very nice to me! I kept her looking like a million bucks, but she didn't care. She acted up whenever she felt like it!

    fastdriver
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Member Posts: 122
    Sounds like my wife. (:>)
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