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Comments
Thanks.
Libby
Best of luck.
I don't know if my problem is similar. But here is my story.
Last December, my car didn't start. Since my battery was 4 years old, I thought it was due for a change and I went to Wal-Mart bought a new battery.
3 days later, the battery led came on, and Wal-Mart installed a new battery (covered by the warranty).
I had the same problem with this 2nd battery and at some point the car would not start at all, but would if jump started.
I tried jump starting the car using the installed battery by performing the following. I run a cable from the battery positive plug (not the positive contact which is visible at the "top of the engine", i.e. you need to remove the air filter box to access the battery), to the fuse box positive contact, and my car started.
CONCLUSION: My battery cable was bad, the one that runs from the battery positive plug to the positive contact which is visible at the "top of the engine".
I have changed this cable and I don't have the problem anymore. It cost me just 5$ (part)...
Best of luck.
I just bought a Chrysler Concorde 1999 from an auction (I was more of forced into buying it), anyways, I got it for $4000 and it has 136,000. The car's engine "looks" good, but then again I don't know anything about engines. Interestingly enough, when I started the car and moved my gear to 'D' I realized that it was really hard to do and I had to apply some force. But, the guy who sold the car said that it was a minor problem and could be easily fixed.
Anyways, just after fifteen minutes of driving the car in express way, I had to hit the brakes b/c of traffic jam, but when I let go of the brakes and hit the accelerator, the car wouldn't move. I thought the engine was down, so I tried turning off the car and turning it back on. So, I moved my gear to 'P' and I tried to get it to 'D' and accidently it went to '3' and got stuck there. I tried getting it to D or P for that matter but it wouldn't budge. My brother got really scared and tried to push the gear really hard and I don't know what happened (I think it broke) but the gear would move but the car's indicator wouldn't change from '3' to anything. So, we were stuck on the express way. The car's engine wouldn't start and we had to get it towed.
Can anyone give me suggestions of what happened, or how much will it cost. I am really worried. Please help and reply soon.
Thanx
The seller told me that he hasn't replaced the timing belt and he has no
manual to check what's the recommended milage to change it. Could anybody
do me a favor to check your manual for this? How much should I pay if I
have to replace the timing belt for this beautiful car?
Thanks for any help anyone may have.
Thanks.
Thank you,
Poor College Student
I have an 02' concorde, that seems to have major overheating issues. No matter if I am on the highway or just in town, after about 10 minutes in the car the needle goes up to high and the light comes on. Just today I had the raditor system flushed since the two colors of fluid go mixed some how(forgive me I am a woman who knows nothing about cars...just frustrated that I can not turn on my air conditioning!!!)
Can any one help!! :confuse:
By the way I had trouble with the AC not working only to find out that the driver side front fan motor went bad and knocked out the current needed to get the compressor to work. Once I replace the fan I have had no problems.
I can drive 70 miles without it acting up, then it'll start giving me fits. I can shut it off for 60 seconds and it'll stop with the fits. It's like rebooting a computer that gets jammed up.
And it seems like it gets worse when the outside temperature -- not engine temp -- is hotter. Here's a for-instance: I work evenings. The outside temp is way up when I leave for work, I have to stop at least once and "reboot." Then it drives just fine. On the way home, after the sun goes down and the temp is down 15 to 20 degrees, I have absolutely no problem. I just don't understand this.
The codes say I've got a downrange O2 censor failing. I don't know if this is related, but this seems more like a vacuum prob to me than a mechanical prob. A certified Chrysler mechanic friend says it's the pump. I just don't see it the same way. And here you've replaced your pump and the car still acts up. I don't want to spend a couple hundred, too, just to find out the pump wasn't the prob.
Did you ever get a helpful response to your query, Ralph?
Of course, Christian is right about the real shop manuals. I have hard time reading them, though.
You seem to be experiencing the same probs with the car shutting down as I am. My engine light never goes off (a guy I work with has a '97 and THAT light never goes off, either).
And fuel-injector cleaner, as well as STP-type stuff, didn't help at all.
Questions: What's this evaporator you had to replace? And what's this "gas balancer"?
If your temperature gauge is in the middle -- preferably just below middle -- you're fine. Mine stays just below middle unless I'm stuck in traffic, but I've never seen it go above middle.
Also, every now and then when the engine gives me fits, the fuel gauge will just stop working. It will go to E and the little fuel pump will light up on the instrument panel and I'll be able to drive. It's friggin screwy.
Any suggestions?
Also, is there a way to have the radio clock stay? The manual says take it to the dealer and they can fix it. If it is simple to do, I would rather do it.
The inputs to the PCM that influence fan operation are: Coolant Temp Sensor, Intake air temp Sensor, Output speed sensor, Transmission Oil Temp Sensor, and A?C Pressure Transducer.
The PCM switches the fans on thru the two relays in ythe PDC, a low speed relay and a high speed relay.
You may have a bad connection in the wiring between the two fan motors or a bad fan motor.
A few jumpers would tell which.
My wipers just stopped working. We once had a problem with the linkage having to be reattached. It doesn't make any noise when I try to turn them on. Could this be the linkage again? If so, where would I find it on a 93 Concorde to reattach it or could this be something else. It's suppose to rain tomorrow so I have to figure something out. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
dash and says fuses on it...and it's not the fuse. Checked if any of the wires were unhooked but they are all attached. I have a feeling it's the wiper motor. Any idea what I'd have to pay to get that changed?
It was drivable in traffic, only with the heater on at full blast, pulling hot air from the engine.
Also my A TC unit gave me a code 36. Right now the Climate control unit isn't functioning at all. I change the fuse but it kept blowing. I notice water leaking behind the passenger side dash when I went through a car wash. I notice to drain area under the wipers was block by a plastic object so I removed it. No more leaks Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
1st time: One day while driving through an intersection, it dies and I coast to the curb and it starts right back up and runs great for about 3 weeks.
2nd time: The car wont start at all. I turn the key and it doent make a sound or do anything. Then after doing this 3 times, it fires right up and runs fine.
3rd time: About another 3 weeks go by and I am on my way home from work and the car acts like it is going to die and jumps and then runs just fine.
It has been running great ever since, but it has only been about 3 weeks. I have no idea what to do about all this. Can anyone give me any advice or tell me what it could possibly be? My gauges say everything is fine.
We took our Concorde into the dealer because the Heater/AC was turning on by itself full blast and try to turn on the AC which hasn't worked for years. Anyway, we asked them to check if this is possibly a sensor problem. They told us that it couldn't be the sensor and that it was probably the on/off unit that had to be completely replaced at an $800 price tag (parts/labour). We told them not to bother. We went to a scrap yard and bought a refurbished one for $200 and brought it to our regular mechanic. When they replaced it, it still did the same thing so they removed it and put the old one back in. We brought the part back to the scrap dealer and told them that it doesn't seemed to be that part as they told us that the part definitely works. So we bought a sensor to try out but that particular sensor wasn't it either. Our mechanic is going to put it up on the machine to see what it says because the dealer said they didn't see a sensor problem but we'd like to check with someone else. Has anyone came across this problem with the Concorde? :confuse: