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Chrysler Concorde

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Comments

  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    Does your measure solve the issue completely or does it only mask the issue ..?

    Read my posts # 229 and 231 in this same thread.

    By turning the lights to the maximum brightness your dash lights may not flicker but your headlights are still switching on and off ..?

    I have so far judged my issue to be related to the (mis)behavior of the sensor (doing something that it is not supposed to do ..?) ..

    I have this problem in all kinds of weather..
    I do not see this problem after it is dark outside.
  • debbies2debbies2 Member Posts: 2
    actually it's worse than just flickering dash light-the car's computer system won't start and the car won't start. the chrysler shop is stumped. we are dealing with a computer system that won't start when you start the car-but not always, an airbag light that comes on and remains on sometimes for as long as the car is on and anti-lock brakes that kick in at anytime you are driving, be that 10 mph backing down the driveway to 60 mph on the highway!cmputer was changed to a 97 computer since there is an obvious electrical problem, but that has not corrected the problem. it is like my car is possessed by the devil-help!!
  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    To further strengthen my sensor theory ..

    I have never seen this behavior when I cover the sensor with a cap or something else ...
  • mh4mh4 Member Posts: 1
    My 1994 Concorde recently began to perform a "light dance" on the message center. The Traction Control 'On', Traction Control 'Off' and ABS brakes lights all begin to blink on and off at various times. They may all stay on at once for a time. The Trac Cont 'On' sometimes flickers while the other two stay on. I hear lots of clicking and rumbling from the dash and hood area while this is happening.

    The scariest thing is that while my I'm sitting at a light (or anytime I have the brakes applied for more than 20 secs.), the lights may come on and with each appearance my brakes makes a noise and the pedal "falls" down a notch under my foot.

    I don't know if this is a sensor problem or if the ABS and/or Traction Control systems are failing. The On/Off button for the trac cont seems to be useless during these experiences. Any ideas or similar war stories out there?
  • djwakeleedjwakelee Member Posts: 3
    It sounds like your problem is definitely something else. For me, the dash lights, radio, climate control, and overhead console would just flicker between the full on (the level when the lights are off) and the dim setting. This is similar to what some other people have experienced, but not the same as your headlight issue. Headlights were not affected. Not sure what your history is with your vehicle, but it sounds like the body controller needs to be replaced.

    Good luck,
    Dave
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    if your car is doing everything you say it is, why in the world do you still have it and why are u still driving it? anti-lock brakes kicking in for no reason, especially if you are not even pushing on the brake pedal sounds highly suspicious. i suggest you take your problems to the national highway traffic and safety administration.
  • frank58frank58 Member Posts: 54
    After 1000 miles the car has been flawless. This is the 1st car I will take in for the 1000 mile LOF that I have had no issues. I keep hearing about the road noise, mine is not bad at all. I will continue to keep all informed, but so far so good
  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    Even in my case ... the dash lights, radio,
    climate control, and overhead console just
    flickers between the full on (the level when the
    lights are off) and the dim setting.

    Does this phenomena happen even when your headlight switch is turned to the off position ..?

    In my case .. this phenomena happens only when my headlight is in the ON position.

    At the time the dash lights, radio,
    climate control, and overhead console lights get set to the bright position ( the level when the lights are off ) .. at this time my headlights are also getting switched off ....

    As I have said before .. none of this happens when it is dark outside..

    About the history of my car ....
    I once had to get the driver's side window motor replaced.
    The car has been otherwise flawless and a pleasure to drive ....
    Excuse my impudence .. but I enjoy it more than my friend's 1999 Lincoln Continental.
  • elvisp1elvisp1 Member Posts: 1
    My '97 concorde has unintended acceleration during heavy acceleration (ie. merging into traffic). Had the engine and transmission computers reprogrammed last year and the problem persists. Any suggestions??
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    what are u talking about?? unintended acceleration during acceleration...WHAT!
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    I think you forgot to have them turn off the afterburner option.
  • ripshawripshaw Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone else had problems with the front end suspension on the 2000 Concorde?
    About a month after driving my new 2000 Concorde, I began to hear a rattle in the front end during slow braking. This rattle grew worse until I took it into my dealer. The dealer acknowledged a TSB on the front struts and agreed to replace one side. (What a cheesy deal...last time I checked a car had two struts in the front). After the car stayed in the shop for 5 days, I got it back. Everything was fine for about a week, when the other side began making the same noise. (Gee, Duh, that's a real surprise since the car was built using a substituted part from the factory you would think DChrysler would be a little proactive and fix what is eventually going to break). Upon inspection, the dealer noticed that the replacement strut was now leaking and the other (previously unchanged) strut was having problems. Of course, there was never any offer of a loaner car and the parts are on back order. Indeed, my car is a $28K rattle trap. At this point, I am incredibly frustrated and disappointed in the 2000 Concorde. I guess this is what Lemon Laws are for.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    why in the world would your car be in the shop for five days? you could have driven it until they got the replacement strut. and good luck trying to invoke the lemon law over said strut...
  • mmanson2mmanson2 Member Posts: 4
    My 1998 chrysler concorde has had a problem with
    windows sticking in the up position. The problem occurred in the heat of the day and when it cooled
    down outside I was able to lower windows. I have found out that damp moisture has got into the window tracks causing them to stick at the top
    rubber part. The Dealer said it is a problem and
    the tracks and upper rubber parts needs regular
    cleaning with lubrication in tracks and on rubber. They said with silicone for lubrication.
    I understand that a lot of customers with Chrysler concord 's, 300m 's and LHS 's have
    been burning out power window motor's because of the problem.
    My dad 's 1999 Chrysler LHS burned out his drivers window motor because of the problem.
    Note! neither myself or my dad have a garage
    to keep a car in so both vehicles are in the
    outside weather at all times.
  • srinacarsrinacar Member Posts: 14
    Just an update - Since September 99 I've been at odds with DChrysler about my leased 2000 Concorde LXI LEMON. About a month ago they finally agreed to replace the car. They could not provide the exact same car, color etc. I agreed to take anothr 2000 LXI in another color (since I only had a choice of two, and one had a bench seat!) They set the car aside and started the process. Yesterday I was told I would have to pay the difference in MSRP plus tax, a paperwork fee and 18 cents a mile for the miles I put on before the car got sick. But, my replacement would fit right into my lease minus the miles I already used!! So now I pay twice for the miles? Also, the difference in MSRP is for the sole difference - wheels. My white car has alloys - but the only one they offered me (silver)has chrome. So I have to pay for the wheels?? Do you think they will let me keep them when I return the car in 2 years? After all, they aren't going to residualize them, like any other lease. Here is th real joke - when I leased the car we negotiated the price on a car in stock - with chrome wheels. Since the only color they had then was silver, they had to get me a white one from aonther dealership. I accepted the alloys because they looked good on a whit car, but we didn't rduce the pice. Now, since I didn't bust balls then, I must pay again for the chrome. The moral of the story is this - my Chrsler is garbage, and the Chrysler engineers that have tried six times to fix two recurring problems are, at best, incompetent. But most important of all, Chrysler's view of customer srevice is warped. After all the time my NEW car spent in the shop, they act like they are doing me a favor by replacing it. I will decline their silly offer and pursue a lemon law claim through the Attorney General in my state. To all futur Chrysler customers - beware - what looks so good might be junk, and the fools that cannot fix their own product and only half heartedly stan behind it cannot be trusted.
  • ramronramron Member Posts: 8
    I have a '94 Concorde purchased in Nov '93, and now have over 125K miles. Sorry you are having problems. Mine still runs strong.

    Have not had your problem, but noticed the system ground terminal mounted under the battery when replacing it a couple of years ago. This is not a good place for the system ground as it could become corroded and possibly create all sorts of control problems.

    Just to make sure it wouldn't happed to me, I added an additional ground wire and fastened it to a screw next to the hood bumper.

    If you haven't been able to get your problems fixed as yet,you might try adding a temporary ground with a jumper from the battery ground (black) to a good clean shinny bolt or nut. Also before you give up and buy a Ford, look at the "blue oval" site.

    Good luck, ramron
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    ramron-

    That link is http://www.blueovalnews.com/

    fastdriver
  • biguycoopbiguycoop Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for saving me some money, I was thinking about looking for a used Concorde lxi, but I don't need the headaches of a rattle trap or front struts that leak and thump. Going to M/B. Good luck and Bye
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    better be careful, the m-class has a history of developing some chrysler traits...ie cheap trim and rattles.
  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    ..O Boy.. I am starting to feel privileged about owning a Chrysler...

    People buying M/B also consider Chrysler Concorde ..?
  • macarthur2macarthur2 Member Posts: 135
    the first time I saw the Concorde I was really taken with the front end styling. But now it's like the effect has worn off. Has anyone noticed this as well? The rear end is terrible and has been from the start. I just think the Dodge Intrepid comes off handsomer (?) in the long run.
  • david144david144 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Concorde LX with the 2.7 engine. Overall, I really like the car but there is one thing--the transmission. At low speeds (coming to a stop, stop and go, etc) the downshifting is terrible. It doesn't seem to know what gear it is downshifting to. If you suddenly accelerate again while it is almost stopped, it engages very crudely and abruptly. the low speed downshifts are very pronounced. Please tell me this isn't normal!!! At regular speeds, it is great. They have reprogrammed the transmission once and that helped a little but this is still a very crude transmission. Anyone else experienced this? I have wind noise and a few buzzes too. Overall, still satisfied but not as much as I was as this could get to be very annoying over the years. I know I wasn't buying a Lexus (did't cost like a Lexus either!) but my Neon tranny was better than this.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    david144-

    LOL.......welcome to the world of Chrysler. This is ONE time when the "5-STAR" dealer says "they all do this", believe it!! LOL... I assume that your Concorde has the same "learning" transmission as my 99 300M. I have the SAME experiences as you! One way to change the pattern for a while anyway is to pull the TCM fuse under the hood. On my 300, it's located on the driver's side, behind the windshield washer container. Lift the cover off the long black box there. Look for the fuse that says TCM. Pull it out for 15 minutes or longer and then replace it. This will erase the tranny's memory and start learning your driving patterns all over again. It may shift rough for about 100 miles or so, then calm down. This will last for several months until it needs to be done again.

    Good luck!

    fastdriver
  • david144david144 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info on the tranny. Hope MB can add a little refinement in the future but it won't help us. Hard to believe they can't do better than that--it's the worst auto transmission I've had in 15 years.
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    I too (and still am) very much taken with the front end of the >98 Concorde. That wide oval egg crate grille is a wonderful throwback to the European sports cars (Ferrari, Aston Martin etc.) of the 60's. The rear end is OK - my ideal car would have the front end of the Concorde and the rear end of the Intrepid or 300M. And maybe Chrysler has produced such with the 2001 Sebrings. Each one is slightly different - but with the same wide grille. I have'nt seen a picture of the rear ends yet, but they appear to be more 300M-like. Check them out at the Chryslercars.com web site. The wide grille may be more appropriate on these smaller sedans/coupes than on the bigger Concorde. But, I still like mine!

    fastdriver - THANKS FOR THE TIP ON RESETTING THE TRANSMISSION! I only have occasional rough downshifts while cornering at just the right (or wrong) speed. Upshifts are still smooth as silk.
  • topictopic Member Posts: 3
    My wife and I are shopping around for a p/o vehicle. We found a 95 Concorde with about 100kms/60ks. It seems like a very nice car. I noticed all the postings on here there seems to be very little probs with them. Does tihs mean they are a reliable car? They are asking 6800.00 cdn for it. Any info on this would be great. Thannks in advance Ron
  • chas737chas737 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Concord, 3.5, w/ only 117,000 miles on it. The Dodge parked alongside of it has only 273,000.
    I have been having a problem w/ the AC, it seems when I park w/the windows closed and it gets hot in the passenger area, the AC will work for a little while then blow hot air. I know when this is going to happen because the speedo will start erratic movement, the airbag light come on and other trouble lights in the dash seem to flicker off and on.
    Any help or thoughts???
    Thanks to any and all. By the way, I've had many different cars, and this Concord is a very fine road car. I enjoy it very much.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    chas737-

    Trying going to: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov and then click on problems and issues under the red car. Then click on TSB and put in the appropriate info for your car. You might find something there.

    fastdriver
  • jayess1jayess1 Member Posts: 7
    At 5700 miles my LXi is being fit for a new engine. It blew last week and I seem to be at their mercy as to what I cn do.

    Has anyone out there had any experience with blown engines at low mileage. If so, what did they do for you? Chrysler says they will take it to original specs. They didn't even want to pay for my renatl car. Incidentally this happened about 200 miles from my home.

    Any experiences out there?
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    blown engines in lh cars are extremely rare! a very knowledgeable service tech told me that the only problems he has ever seen in lh engines were related to water pump failures...and that was back in the mid 90s. what actually happened that made your engine inoperable?
  • jayess1jayess1 Member Posts: 7
    Noise started out like a valve noise and then got to the noise saturation point in less than 5 miles. I thought at first it was the water pump, but none of the symptoms were present. Was towed to a Chrysler dealer and two of their "experts" decided it was the engine. I must tell you that I have never experienced noise like this. The valve noise turned to a severe knocking pretty quick. Since I am a long way from the dealer, I have not seen any evidence of the engine problem.
  • ramronramron Member Posts: 8
    Sounds to me like you have a blend air door motor problem and it could be caused by bad ground. See #345 response to Debbie2. There is also a dash are ground.

    The A/C system has built-in diagnostics. Follow the procedure in allpar.com. Set the temp to 75 degrees, and press the 3 control buttons called out(not the A/C compressor button) and read the problem code.

    The blend air door could also be sticking when hot. You can reach it by removing the console. Good luck.
  • ramronramron Member Posts: 8
    You're right, the transmission is busy shifting, I guess to enhance performance. Without the low 1st gear ratio and the busy transmission my 3.3L would feel underpowered.

    I think the shifting is all done with clutches. The must lock and unlock in various sequences and that takes time. The downshift to 1st is a major gear change. On my 3.3L the computer slows the engine with the idle air motor in the throttle body. You need a clean throttle body and need to keep your foot off the gas pedal until it shifts or it will jerk and stress the transmission.

    I think the 3.5L actually turns off the spark to slow the engine for this shift. We just have to learn to be patient and let transmission shift to low before accelerating.
  • mmanson2mmanson2 Member Posts: 4
    What problems did you have with your 2000 concorde that Chrysler could not fix? I own
    a 1998 Chrysler concorde LXI and should I be
    concerned.
    Email me at
    manson@roanoke.infi.net
  • golden50golden50 Member Posts: 3
    For information of anyone thinking about this year Concorde, I bought one new and sold to daughter with 80K miles on it. Problems, brake discs warp, air conditioner seals, and a new battery every two years. Other wise this has been a GREAT auto and still is. A true joy to drive and own. And yes I bought another Chyrsler, an LHS.
  • copperhead1copperhead1 Member Posts: 157
    black saphire and black,no more cypress green and deep slate.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    you mean blue sapphire don't you??
  • copperhead1copperhead1 Member Posts: 157
    you are right it is deep sapphire blue.
  • toxcheeptoxcheep Member Posts: 3
    I also have experienced exactly the same croaky, creaky, noises described coming from the front end somewhere. I had the Chrysler mechanic ride with me and he could hear them but couldn't ascertain the exact location or cause. He tried lubing the bushings, but the noise is still there when I go over bumpy territory at slow speeds. He said several others have come in with that complaint. This should not be happening in a car that is less than a year old. Is there any relief in sight?
  • countrylawyercountrylawyer Member Posts: 11
    toxcheep,
    There's a specific TSB relating to the front-end sounds coming from your Concorde (sort of halfway between a squeak and a grind, isn't it?); it relates to the struts. My 2000 LXi was making the same noises, and when I took them the TSB numbers (you can get them from either the NHTSA site or the alldata site), they had no trouble locating the problem and ordering the parts to fix it.
    Otherwise, with 10,900 on the clock, I have to say I'm very happy with my car. The interior noise, about which we hear so much, sometimes bothers me and sometimes doesn't. In any event, it never bothers me so much that I'm willing to pony up the bucks for Michelin tires (the stock Goodyears are much less than impressive in that respect, and Michelins come recommended). The car handles extremely well, both on the open road and on back highways, and I've just about figured out where the front end is, which makes parking in garages and so forth much less nerve-wracking (turning the lights on for the docking process helps gage distance). The A/C system is working like a champ in these 90+ degree days. Other than the struts and the driver's safety belt recall, I've had no mechanical or electrical problems of any nature. Periodic wipe-downs with one of those electro-static dusting cloths (I keep a small box in the trunk for the purpose) keep the dash and doors clean, and Hide Food (available at $11.00 (!!!) or so per jar at your favorite Jag dealership) is doing well by the leather.
    One thing that does chap, however, is DC's decision to replace deep slate with true black for the 2001 model year. I'd wanted black, I still want black, and for the next ten or so years I'm condemned to watching other folks drive black Concordes. A small gripe, true, but it still niggles.
    Am I fully confident in the car's long-term reliability? No, and quite frankly, I wouldn't be with any car, of any make or model. "Reliability" is inherently an ex-ante concept, but you never can know about it until after the fact. My 1984 Tercel has been marvellously reliable, and with 218,500 it still is, but there's no way I could have known it when I bought it used in 1987 with 67,000 on the clock. Would I buy a Concorde again? You bet. Am I happy with my local dealer's service department? Blissful.
  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    28500 miles on my 98 Concorde Lxi ..

    I have mentioned in a few of my earlier posts about a vague 'flickering' issue I have had with my dashboard and head lights.

    Yesterday morning ..my car refused to start for the 1st 2-3 tries ..( I have never had a starting problem ever..)
    It would flash all the dashlights and then try to start but die out in a couple of seconds. After a couple of tries I got the car started ..

    My gut feeling was an electrical problem due to a short or something ..?

    Opened up the hood (as if I understand anything..?) to check for anything unusual but found nothing ..

    I was late for work so I thought of taking it to the dealership during lunch break.

    On the way ..the air conditioner and radio went off but started again after a few seconds .. After this happened a couple of times I switched off both.

    After a mile the battery light came on ..
    Then the ABS and traction lights came on and I felt the car brake itself (I think ) for a second ..
    The ABS and traction lights would come on and off intermittently.

    When I reached the office parking lot .. I turned on the headlight and the dash lights flickered and the car applied brakes ( I think ) for a second.

    I parked the car and turned it off. Now I tried to start the car and ..nothing ... no lights ..no instrument lights ...no response ..nothing .... The interior lights were off. I opened the glove box and it was dark inside ..

    Finally ..called Chrysler Roadside Assistance and had it towed to the dealership ...
    They agreed to take it to a dealership near my residence rather than the nearest dealership at no extra cost.
    Now it has been nearly 24 hours in the dealership but I have not heard anything from the 5 star guys.
    I just called them up and they said that they haven't had a chance to look at it yet ..

    Shall write back with further updates ..
  • frank58frank58 Member Posts: 54
    I had the same issue with a 96 Sable. Believe it or not it all had to do with a transmission sensor. I hope this helps
  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    48 hours after I dropped my car at the 5 star dealership ...

    I received a call from the dealer saying the car has been fixed . I will probably pick it up later today .

    He told me that the battery had to be replaced because it failed the load test..

    I was thinking .. If it was a problem with the battery then I should have had atleast a hint of a starting problem in the previous days ..
    Moreover .. I had managed to get the car started after it had sat overnight ..
    The car would not start after I had driven it for a 8-10 miles and reached office.

    Anyway .. Will post here after I pick up the car and anything comes up again ..
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    I have had a similar experience with car batteries, altho with my Honda, not my Intrepid. IMHO, in the old days, you could feel the sputtering and stuttering, and you would get "advance notice" that the battery was dying. Two of my Hondas started perfectly in the morning, cranked just fine, then, in the evening, the dash lights came on and that was all. When towed to the dealer, they changed the battery after diagnosing it as "dead" and all was fine for about three to four years.

    It doesn't really help you much, but the syndrome is not so strange anymore.
  • fritofrito Member Posts: 70
    The last few (3-4) batteries I had fail were also sudden. I think that the newer batteries have extremely thin cell walls to maximize storage capacity in the smallest amount of space. If the wall(s) crack, this could cause a more sudden loss of capacity than the usual more gradual loss of cranking power. Stress on the walls from extreme heat and cold would tend to hasten the deterioration of cell integrity. Perhaps, vibration from rough roads and the battery not being completely secured would also exacerbate the situation.
  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    Got my car back from the dealer ...

    Invoice says that they checked the 'starting system'. It was good. Then they performed a load test on the battery which failed. So they replaced the battery. All systems working fine since.

    The car seems to be fine. As expected ..the radio and other presets were lost. But I din't have to retrain Homelink.
    The learning-transmission seems to be shifting better than ever.
  • toxcheeptoxcheep Member Posts: 3
    CountryLawyer, thanks for the info. I'd love to follow up on that, but I don't know what NHTSA is or the address for it, same for the "alldata" site. Can you flesh it out abit for a non-techie? Sounds like you know just what I'm experiencing.
  • countrylawyercountrylawyer Member Posts: 11
    toxcheep,
    The alldata website is www.alldata.com; it's a subscriber service, so Joe Bloggs the Consumer can't get into all the nittty gritty details, but there is a publicly available part where you can get the TSBs and recalls numbers for your year, make, and model. The National Highway Transporation Safety Authority (NHTSA) also has a site, with more complete public information that alldata; their web's address is www.nhtsa.dot.gov; they've got lots o' neat stuff, including complaints and so forth. Having the numbers handy can really help out when you're given the "Aw-shucks-we-can't-find-nothing-wrong with-that-car-maybe-you're-usin'-bad-gas" routine. Go forth and conquer. The underlying problem with the struts (if I understood the service wonks correctly) is that the oil has leaked from the struts. The replacement part is some sort of cap which will allegedly prevent that from recurring . . . although if it's leaked once it can leak again. But at least I now know what's the problem. And so do you.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    fastdriver,

    batteries do just die on occasion for no explainable reason. you really can't blame christine for a battery failure. however, you can blame chrysler for buying subpar batteries!
  • tom_tom_ Member Posts: 25
    I'll have a party the day you stop complaining about Chrysler products.
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