Chrysler Concorde

mimi919 · August 2001

Realizing my Concorde may be one of the higher mileage 98 or newer models in this forum I thought this a good time to write this post.
I leased my 99 Concorde LXI new in june of "99"and now have 58,000 miles on it.
My Concorde did require approx. $1200.00 dollars in repairs between the expiration of the 36,000 mile factory warranty to date but I feel that amount of needed repairs to be totally acceptable with todays high auto repair costs.
My Concorde is in excellent condition both mechanically and cosmetically and would have to say that with almost 60,000 miles on my car that solely from a mechanical aspect I feel the Chrysler Concorde is a well made vehicle which has been very much improved from the pre 98 model year Concordes.

tbowen4 · August 2001

I like the Concorde, and would like to buy one this fall. I have a GMC van, which has a V6 4.3 liter engine, and its seems to have more get-up than the Concorde. I test drove--really just around the salesman's course and not a full test on the highway--an LX and it did not seem to have any accelerating power. Is the LXI a better buy engine wise? I love the room inside and the interior, but I'm concerned about the power. I have been driving an old V8 Bonneville and a V6 Regal, and they both seem to run better. Are people happy with the LX? Happier with the LXI? Suggestions.

tbowen4 · August 2001

Employee or beneficiary discounts. Are the discounts taken from the MSRP or the invoice price of the car?

mimi919 · August 2001

In response to your post on the Concorde power...I have the LXI with a 3.2 engine and I do a lot of both city and highway driving and I find my car has more then enough power from take of and up to around 60 miles per hour but it does lack power when passing on the interstates at higher speeds but in my case it really hasen't been a problem and being the Concorde runs on regular unleaded and for its large size gets pretty decent gas mileage I don't think I would want to trade it off for a larger engine.
On the other hand the basic Concorde with the smaller engine for my situation may not be adequate as I often drive on two lane highways that cause me to pass and get back into my lane as quickly as possible.
So to answer your question I feel it would just depend on your individual driving needs but I would think if you drive mostly in the city you will find either engine will do the job adequately.
Two things you may want to check before you purchase your new Concorde is...if you are 6ft.or over try and sit in the front passenger seat with the seat all the way back and see if there is enough leg room for you because as hard as it is to believe for a car that large it has very limited front passenger leg room......the driver and rear seats on the other hand have more then ample leg room.
The second thing you may want to check is the road noise inside the car....I would strongly suggest that you take the car on the highway before you buy it and see if the road noise will be a problem for you.....in my situation I have to say that I do find the road noise very annoying and when I have passengers in the rear seat I find it difficult to hear each other without speaking at a higher then normal voice.
The passenger leg room and the interior noise is more then enough of a reason for me to not to purchase another Concorde but I also feel in my opionion that if those two things won't bother you that you will love your new Concorde as it is truely a beautiful and well made car that is reasonably priced and will get you complements wherever you go.

rickgonz · August 2001

The Concorde engines 2.7L DOHC with 200hp@5800RPM and 190lb.ft.@4000RPM and 3.2L SOHC with 222 hp @ 4200RPM and 222lb.ft. of torque make their power higher up the RPM range than the GM OHV 6cyl. engines with larger displacements (3.8L), 200hp@5200rpm and 225lb.ft.@4000rpm that you are used to.

The difference is that your "butt dyno" feels its going faster (higher speed) quicker (in less time) because of the torque at lower RPMs in Buick Regal/Pontiac GP. As an additional effect of more torque, your back slamming against your seat is more felt in the Buick or Pontiac.

Since I have experienced smaller engines - from 4 cyl DOHC engines that make their power at 6000RPMs and higher, the high-RPM whine of my LX when I'm accelerating hard does not bother me at all.

The Concorde is extremely light, with lots of plastic body parts, and the hood is aluminum. But it's just slightly heavier than the Regal. Consequently, the base engine is adequate for its weight. My family is small and I don't lug around anything that's heavy, so the LX is just fine.

If you want more felt power, you probably have to go to the LHS or 300M with their 250HP and 255lb.ft. torque. The 300M in particular has a reputation as a sporty sedan backed up by enthusiastic owners. It's got better handling European style suspension, more grip around curves, and quite a lot of upgrades over the Concorde LX like the leather seats and better wheels/tires. A dealer around N.Va. advertises occasional $25,000 specials on 300Ms, while his Concorde LXs are advertised as low as $18,000 occasionally. Try test driving the 300M, and compare to the supercharged Regal.

The Concorde is just so damn good looking though!

perolaf · August 2001

I just got a 2000 LX for mostly highway driving (50k/yr). The 2.7 has ample passing power but sometimes it takes a second for the transmission to shift down. Unless you're in the mountains or tow a lot, the small engine should be sufficient, if not exciting. I find the car to be fairly quiet, but I traded in a Ranger and my wifes car is a Lumina, surely one of the noisiest mid-size cars ever. It all depends on what you're used to. You might check out headroom in the back as well as front passenger legroom. I am 6' and find the headroom is very tight in back(but I never ride back there). Passenger legroom is ok but the well is a bit narrow with five passenger seating. I love the car so far.

ottowrkr · August 2001

this year the Concorde comes with 3 engines LX cars get the 2.7 ,LXI gets a new low output 3.5 with 234 H.P and the Limited gets the 3.5 from the 300M.

eeel · August 2001

I had a 98 Inrepid with the 2.7 engine and find that dropping the tranny from drive to 3 (3rd gear) - no overdrive - makes a big difference when attempting to pass or if I need quick extra power. I did the same with my 93 Eagle and 95 Intrepid (both had the 3.3)

rickgonz · August 2001

The door window gremlins hit again today, two of the windows wouldn't come down. I know it's not the switches or motors, I know it's the rubber melting a wee bit and acting like glue with the glass. No use runnin n cryin to the Chrysler dealer. I waited till the car cooled down a bit. Then dug my fingers under the outside and inside edges of rubber gaskets to loosen them up a bit. Not too hard, didn't want to break the glass or anything.
Then tried the switches again - worked!
Got out the window cleaner, and cleaned off the rubber gunk around both sides of the glass on all windows. That does it for now, I should remember to clean them again in a few days.

frank58 · August 2001

I am about to make an appointment for my 2000 Concorde. Windows sound awful on the way up. I have kept the channels clean and silicone the rubber.
This is the only issue with this car after 1.4 years of ownership.
The engine (2.7) is good most of the time power wise, but with a full car and the AC on, be careful trying to pass.

frito · September 2001

An interesting comparison of the 2.7L engine is to first drive a Concorde LX and then drive a Sebring with the same mill. Nevermind 0 to 60 times, the latter makes 0 to 80 times in one quick hurry! Makes sense, the Sebring is a much smaller (lighter) car. Anyway, I would recommend getting the 3.2 engine even if this particular mill is going away. My `99 LXi gets off the dime quite adequately. This is after driving small 4-bangers for the last 30+ years so anything with some more ponies seems like a rocket! But the 3.2L still gets good MPG (seems to still be improving at 25K mi) and runs quietly (except when punched!).

frank58 · September 2001

Got the car back from the 5* and the window regulators in both front windows had been replaced. The mechanic conformed the problems with these parts. He also alerted me to the fact the the rear regulators will also become an issue.

I had a chance to look at the 02 Concorde, I like them. The only thing I wish is that they had the old front end with the LHS's back end. Now that would be a sharp car. I noticed the LXI model had the 3.5 engine in the cars I saw at the dealership.

rickgonz · September 2001

I wish they had kept the Concorde grille. Do you ever watch another Concorde as it's approaching you on the highway? What an awesome car I think to myself. Anyway,I don't like the LHS grille either, gives it more of that retro look that's good only for a couple of years. I hope Chrysler learns that retro look does not sell cars.

frank58 · September 2001

I agree, but the rear end update is nice, also the interior is the old LHS's.

binu · October 2001

My car :1998 Chrysler Concorde Lxi
Yesterday, while trying to start the car, the car would start faintly and then die off. This happened a few times. I even felt a very mild vibration for 1-2 seconds before the car died off. Then I stepped on the gas pedal and started the car. This kept the car from dying off. Then I shifted to drive and drove off to the dealer. I think I got a very faint smell of smoke at one time. The dealer ran a diagnostic check and din't find a problem and now all seems well. Does this indicate a future problem ? Any thoughts ?

david872 · October 2001

BINU - I had a similar problem with a Plymouth van that would stall out and restart(sometimes!) The dealer could not find a problem - everything checked out OK when they did their diagnostics. After three trips to the dealer they finally detected a faulty fuel pump.

grolle · October 2001

99' Concorde has 85,000 miles on it for $9900. and the 98' Aurora has 95,000 miles on it for the same price, $9900. Which wouuld make more sense to purchase? I drive around 30k annually.

rickgonz · October 2001

I own a 99 Concorde, but I probably would go for the Aurora on this one, just because it has more power, specially torque.

binu · October 2001

My 1998 Concorde Lxi with 50,000 miles seems to have a intermittent starting problem. It starts up but struggles to stay alive and then dies off. Even vibrates for 2-3 seconds before dying off. This does not happen always but 1-2 times a day but when it happens it takes a bit of effort (pressing gas pedal) to get it started and running. After shifting to 'drive' everything is normal and the car does not exhibit any symptoms while driving or waiting at traffic lights (in drive). Took it to the dealership but there are no fault codes. The dealer is inclined towards the TSB that mentions something about 'no restart while the engine is hot'.
Has anyone performed this TSB on their Car ?

binu · October 2001

An Update:

Got my car back from the dealer. The TSB which I mentioned earlier was not performed because the tech din't think it applied, after a detailed test. The invoice mentions that they have flashed the PCM Module. The following are the part numbers listed: Part# CMC 04669020 and Part# CMC 04275086.

The car seems to behave better. The starting problem has not occurred, so far.

easyrider300m · October 2001

just started a new topic in Town Hall and think it should draw lots of interest. The title is:
"Mechanics: Horror Stories." I bet all of you have had at least one bad run in with a dishonest mechanic. Please post your horror story under my new topic. I hope to see this topic in the top ten list with your help to get it going. Here is the link: easyrider300m "Mechanics: Horror Stories" Oct 28, 2001 10:38am ---Ok, Guys--start your postings!

frank58 · October 2001

Has anyone had any issues with your brakes pulsating when slowing down on the highway?

I have noticed within the last 2 weeks that I have a strong vibration in the wheel while stopping at higher speeds.

Thanks for the input.

scotian · October 2001

(I think this thing should fit new Concordes...)

I finally installed my custom airbox (which reminds me of a lunar lander) and all of its plumbing, and it works like a charm! While I get the desired deep throaty growl while accelerating, it is no louder than stock otherwise. It also feels more responsive.

The box:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13764864&p=55243320&f=0

Final install:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13764864&p=55718914&f=0

Plans:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13764864&p=55785794&f=0

Old v. new:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13764864&p=54971393&f=0

I have ordered two digital thermometers from JCWhitney so I can compare the temperatures between the inside and the outside of the airbox.

mimi919 · October 2001

I have a 99 Concorde LXI with a little over 64,000 miles and still have my original brakes but was just informed by the dealer when getting an oil change that my front brake pads were at the 25% point which he said anything below that percentage should be replaced with new pads.
I have the same problem you are having with vibrating felt in the steering wheel while braking and that is almost always caused by the front rotors which should be resurfaced when you have brakes installed and that should take care of your vibrating problem.

frank58 · November 2001

Thanks for the input on the brakes. My 5* gave me new rotors with a $50.00 co-pay.
With only 10800 miles on the car I thought it should be free, but the car is 18 months old.

The reason that was given to me was the short trips caused the warping. None of my other cars ever had this issue and I have owned a lot of new cars.

With 0% around maybe it is time to shop. The only downside is that the car is probably not worth much as a trade

jsylvester · November 2001

One problem is some $7 a hour kid ramming the wheel nuts back on with an air hammer. These newer brake rotors are thinner and lighter, and cannot take as much pressure. This is a common way rotors can be warped prematurely.

When it comes to brakes, I do my own. That way the lugs are only hand tightened. Of course, getting tire work done can cause the same possible issue.

I've got an Intrepid R/T with almost 15,000 miles, and the brakes feel as good as the day I bought the car. Of course the R/T has the high performance brake rotors for the LH cars, they are supposed to be more heavy duty.

billgiff · November 2001

I am in the middle of taking D-C to small claims court. They are claiming that they do not cover wear items under warranty. The only time my wheels were off was at the dealers for tire rotation therefore I am not responsible for over torquing. The original pads are still in good shape and my argument is that pads are designed to wear out before rotors. The lawyer for D-C is stating that they are not having a problem in this regard, this board does not seem to suggest that. Are there anyone else out there with this problem, your reply may help me in my court case.
99 Concorde LXi

adelre · November 2001

I've found the Chrysler Cirrus Engine Cut Out discussion - is there any more out there? Anyone have any other suggestions?

peva · November 2001

I plan on buying an off-lease '99 or '00 LXi between now and March of '02.

Some questions (for starters):
1. What are some differences (with things as "unimportant" as cup holders) between years '98, '99, and '00? I'm trying to get an idea if Chrysler has a habit of de-contenting in successive years, or do they tend to add goodies instead.
2. Everything else (mileage, condition, etc.) being equal, what might be a reason to buy a '00 instead of a '99, and vice-versa (related to item 1., above, but also such things as engine/power improvements, etc.)?
3. Of the two V-6's offered in the C'corde/Intrepid in a given year, my understanding is that the smaller (non-LXi) engine is interference (meaning if a timing belt breaks, there will be serious engine damage), but the larger engine is non-interference - is that true?
4. I have started seeing comments on other forums that there have been serious tranny problems in these cars, but also have seen indications that such problems were fixed before the 99's were released. Comments on that situation?
5. Are there other good forums specifically dedicated to Chrysler products, more specifically, the C'corde/Intrepid? Preferably technically/motorhead oriented.
6. I believe that the some engines in the LHS and 300 are hi output versions of the C'corde LXi engine. Would it be feasible/simple to convert an existing C'corde engine to the hi output, or would that involve serious/very expensive mods (or somewhere in between feasible/simple and serious/very expensive)?

Much thanks in advance. I'm new here - just starting my serious info. gathering to make sure I want the Concorde (right now all I know is I *really* like its looks and, if I'm careful and patient, I can afford it).

ottowrkr · November 2001

1- very few things have changed on the cars over the years, small things ,colour .etc
2-98 year cars were new and when you start building new cars you learn things that change year after year, so the newer you get the more bugs get worked out.
3-The two engines were 2.7 (no timing belt,uses timing chain)3.2 rubber timing belt and for 2002 model a low output 3.5. -same basic motor as the 3.2.
4-see answer number 2
5- not sure
6-no , if you want the H.O buy an LHS or 300.

If I was buying this car I would buy the newest model I could afford. IMOP take care and good luck

peva · November 2001

Good info. - that's good that the smaller engine uses a chain instead of a belt, especially if it is an interference engine like I've heard.

I would like to find out a little more about the alleged tranny problems - don't want to get stuck with one of those - a couple of people on other forums (not Chrysler-product related) are pretty upset, and according to them, Chrylser seems to be stone-walling them about (apparently) taking any responsibility for a serious defect, although supposedly it's fixed for '99 and newer - but I don't want to make an expensive mistake based on hear-say.

Thanks again.

jsylvester · November 2001

See the below link for tranny info and everything else Chrysler related.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html

rickgonz · November 2001

peva:

I don't think they decontent. They add on one or two things each year and typically up the price a couple hundred.

one of the main external things are the wheels. In my 99, the wheels are 15". From 00 and up, the wheels are 16". Steel on the LX, and alloy on the LXI, although aluminum alloy wheels are options on the LX also.

I personally prefer the cloth seats of the LX, and not the leather of the LXI. Just bugs me when it's summer the leather seats are hot, and when in winter will freeze your butt.

I actually prefer the 2.7 V6, I am not the expert but I understand that the transmission is different than on the bigger engines. The different transmission actually helps the smaller engine accelerate with equal speed as the bigger engines. I could be wrong, the experts around here should know. I actually got that idea from the 300M board, where the 300M owners bewail their low geared cars, and wish they had the taller gearing of the Concorde LX.

On the transmission problems from previous years, the 98/99 and up models (current bodies) are much better, light years away from the previous one.

These cars are just much better designed and built.

As you have read above, there are some complaints about premature brake rotor warping. I'm at 30,000 miles on my 99 Concorde, and had to have the rotors replaced. No, the dealer did not offer to pay any part of it. It's also the first time I replaced the disk pads. That's been my only big repair bill. Everything else has been regular preventative maintenance.

There are some complaints about rubber stripping around the doors, which shrink in really warm weather (actually stretch, then shrink when it's colder). Also the driver's window gets stuck cause the window seal melts somewhat and sticks to the glass like glue. Lots of folks mistakenly have their winder motors replaced usually under warranty. But the wiser people just keep the windows clean and wipe off the gunk every other day.

You might read in this topic or in the other two (300M and LHS) topics that when folks had their window motors replaced, some of their door panels were actually badly mangled (and not repaired) by the technicians (probably cause they didn't have the right tool from Chrysler). Just beware.

You may want to rethink your buying an off lease for about $14,000 or so. You can get a brand new 2001 LX for about $17,000 with all the rebates at this time. Hurry though, I suppose they're getting the old models off the lot, cause they want to sell you the new one. The new 2002 Concorde is actually last year's LHS externally.

Visit the dealer and you'll see what I mean.

Here's a site with Chrysler/Dodge info in general":

http://www.allpar.com/

and the 300M club is very active on this board in its own topic as well as on ezboard:

http://pub88.ezboard.com/b300menthusiastsclub

This one was pretty good but haven't had success accessing it lately:

http://www.car-truck.com

happy motoring!

rick

binu · November 2001

Ruski !

In one of the boards, I remember you mentioning something about a leaking a/c on your 300M.
Can you tell me more about this ? (symptoms and how it was fixed).

I have recently started hearing a 'low' hissing sound from the a/c when the compressor is running.
Sometimes, the sound gets louder.
Of course, it is fine when in the dealership.

thanks for any info.

mimi919 · November 2001

Just wondering if any other Concorde owners have had as many window problems as I have had.
My 99 Concorde Lxi now has over 66,000 miles and I now need my 3rd power window switch replaced as well as 1 window motor and 1 power door lock mechanism also required replacement....also required a new dual cooling fan replacement in the past....all I can say is I sure got my moneys worth out of my extended warranty this time especially by being able to pass on all the dealer suggested high cost preventive maintenance they have tried to recommend since I purchased my Concorde.{other then oil changes,brakes,belts,and hoses I feel there is no reason to pay for both an entended warranty and also pay for preventive maintenance that is not required by the manufacturer.)
Other then the above mentioned repaires which added up have cost Chrysler much more then the cost of my extended warranty I would have to say that my Concorde mechanically as far as the drive train(engine&tranny)it has been a very reliable car and to date have not required any drive train repairs.

rickgonz · November 2001

Had one replaced just recently on my 99 LX, thank goodness still under warranty since it's still just slightly over 30k. They had no explanation why it broke. Probably bad bearings or something silly like that. It's amazing how some really small cheap $.15 part messes up things, costing them a couple hundred to fix. Won't Chrysler and the other domestic manufacturers learn?

ramron · December 2001

I bought my '94 Concorde in late '93 and now have 155K miles so I should be qualified to comment.

For your item #4, transmission problems seem to be caused by using other than Chrysler 7176+ or ATF +3 fluid. Never use Dexron or get ready for a re-build. I've not had a transmission problem and changed the fluid once at 120K miles.

The A/C evaporator rotted out at 70,000 miles and was replaced by Chrysler. The problem was that their supplier did not properly wash out the acid rinse during manufacture. The A/C is very powerful and does a good job here in Central Florida. The rest of the system including compressor is original.

I just replaced my brake pads this past weekend for the first time. Had original rotors turned. The four wheel disc anti-lock brakes do a good job. We travel to our mountain home every month or so heavily loaded and have pulled trailers and pull my 2000# boat on the hottest days. A reason for the larger engine is towing capacity. I have the 3.3L and can tow 2000#.

To answer your question #5, visit allpar.com for Chrysler enthusiasts site.

I'll probably buy another Concorde after I finally wear out my '94. It still runs and looks good. It can maintain 80 MPH all day, get over 28 MPG with air and still uses very little oil.

Good luck. Hope you find a good one too.

99_300m_ric_va · December 2001

Otto,

I don't know if you have the answer to question 2 posed in message 591 or not, but I too would like to know the answer. Why does the Chrysler 42LE Tranmission Learn and what do we gain by having this feature?

I personally think my 300M drives best when at default settings. Like when we test drove and fell in love.

I reset my computer occasionally after I get annoyed with the way the tranny is shifting in Drive, especially after I've used autostick for a little agressive driving. I would expect luxury smooth shifting to return in drive,

Incidentally, my mother's 2000 Concorde shifts fairly consistently. Is this because it doesn't have the autostick and have to switch between the firmer sport shifting and soft luxury type shifting?

ottowrkr · December 2001

They learn because people have different driving styles. Some gun it off the line others don't so having the computer be able to match shift points to the way you drive is the main reason they learn . If you have two different people driving the car two different ways the car will learn say how your wife drives ,then when you get in and drive you say whats going on. The reason they drive better when just reset is because after a few days of driving your driving styles change with traffic and weather conditions so the computer picks a middle of the road shift setting and that's when you feel the shifting is not as good. If you were to drive like a race car driver 90% of the time your trans would always shift this way .but we drive differently every day. Probably the Concorde shifts better because your mom drives this car very gently so this is how the computer learned to shift .

david872 · December 2001

I have also had numerous window problems with my 99' Concorde. I've had three window motors replaced. I've read some posts that talked about the windows sticking to the molding. I recently went to roll a window down (one of the replaced ones) and it wouldn't work. I remembered the posts on sticking and after some pushing and pulling it opened. The posts talked about keeping the window tops cleaned and the rubber moldings soft (I use one of the many silicone products). I try to do this regularly and have had no problems since. I'm like you - except for the window issues it's been a great sedan - no other problems to date.

99_300m_ric_va · December 2001

Ottowkr,

Thanks for the feedback on the learning tranny.

I understand what you're saying but I still prefer the tranny in my 94 Dodge Ram.

peva · December 2001

I just bought a '99 Concorde this week - very pleased!

I would like to swap out the plain looking gage cluster for the retro-looking (black letters on cream background) cluster. Does anyone know what determines what years or models (LXi?) determines that the vehicle has that cluster so that I can efficiently search for it from a salvage yard or other source. Is there any chance that the similar looking cluster in the 300M's (and I assume LHS's) are a drop in fit (to possibly broaden the availability)?

BTW, I also want to swap out the factory radio/cassette for the factory radio/cd/cassette. Figured a good source would be someone that has installed an aftermarket system and has the factory one to sell.

If so, post here and we can go from there.

Thanks.

peva · December 2001

I see some recent discussion here on "learning tranny". I was driving thru some long steep rolling hills here in Virginia (in my "new" this week '99). I had the cruise control on and was slightly startled on a downhill when I heard the engine speed increase and the tac bumped up to 3k, and it wasn't until leveling out at the bottom of the hill when it upshifted again that I realized that the transmission was actually downshifting to provide engine braking to maintain the cruise control setpoint dead-nuts on. I'm an engineer, and I was impressed!

ottowrkr · December 2001

Yes the LHS/300M gauges will fit . I have seen the 300 gauges in a Intrepid ,looks nice. The only problem you may have is that the outer trim bezel that goes around the gauges may not cover a few of the areas that should be covered ,so you may see part of the bar code on the lower right corner of the gauge package face. The only difference between the LHS gauges and the 300 set is were the PRNDL is used. The 300M has Autostick so it goes PRND1234. As your Concorde does not have A/Stick you must find the LHS package.

peva · December 2001

Do you know if any Concordes or Intrepids came from the factory with the retro (black letters on cream face) gages? I could have sworn I saw one in a used car lot like that - I would be surprised if someone retrofitted it, but it could happen. If any do come from the factory like that, do you know what (year, trim package?) determines that?

Also, if I were to do a retrofit, I assume that I would need the whole cluster - not just the individual gages?

chryslerfan1 · December 2001

Hello everyone. I have been researching for about a year now on what to replace my 1995 Dodge Neon with. I have looked at everything from Hyundai to Honda. I think I am going to settle on a used Concorde 98  2000. A few notes about Chrysler products, I have read the good and the bad on this forum and I must say I am pretty satisfied with my dodge neon. My current OD reading is 195,120 miles with NO Major components replaced. I have had some repairs done all of which I do myself (being an ex-mechanic I am able to do so) most notably was the head gasket, all 4 struts, front wheel bearings, crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor replaced at 141,000 and a rear main oil seal, starter and alternator at around 95,000. The only other things I have replaced are normal wear items (brakes, tires, tune ups) never had any transmission or drive axle problems what so ever. I always maintain my car with oil changes every 3000 miles never over 4000 and regular scheduled maintenance.

I love the Concorde and feel very comfortable driving it. I feel with the luck I have had with the Neon the Concorde should be even better. I am confident that if anything should come up I can fix it without spending thousands of dollars.

I have read a lot of complains about road noise and wonder if maybe
a. Some of the people on this board are older and have hearing aids which might amplify the noise
b. Have become accustomed to there cars and their ears are more in tune with the cars noises translating that to more noise.

I have noticed that with my Neon. Sometimes I feel my neon is very noisy especially after driving it straight for weeks and not riding in another vehicle. Then I will drive my wifes car for a day or so I come to find my neon not as noisy (I must state here though that when I fist got my Neon I added my own sound insulation throughout the whole car so it is probably quieter than the stock Neon).

I do want to thank everyone on the board that has posted positive and negative feelings for their Concorde it has been helpful to see what possible problems could arise and maybe even how to fix them right the first time and even though Chrysler products have there faults (show me one manufacturer that doesnt) that they are good cars for the price/performance/enjoyment factors.

toms99 · December 2001

I'm in the market for a new Concorde for my wife (I have a 99LHS and usually hang out in the 300M board - the LHS board is dead !)

You mentioned "You can get a brand new 2001 LX for about $17,000 with all the rebates at this time."

What rebates? are they regional? I have my eye on a 2001 LX....it's new, a leftover. Small number of options including ABS. Sticker is 23K. I figured I can get them down to 19K or 20K, but do you think 17K is realistic? (Edmunds "True Market Value says 18K + about $500 for the ABS and of course $625 destination.)

I'm not a good haggler. But this is the same dealership I bought my 99LHS brandy new (should count for something I guess!) The dealer is great with a terrific service department (from what I read on the groups that's pretty rare !!) Plus DC is offering the 7 year 100K mile warranty even on the 2001's.

What do you think is a fair "bottom-line" price??

Tom

peva · December 2001

I just bought a '99 Concorde.

Will pass along some random thoughts and observations.

1. I avoided the '98 because supposedly they had some transmission problems which were cleared up by the '99 MY.

2. There's an '01 blue Intrepid in a lot I was shopping at for (I couldn't believe it when the guy told me this) $8950 - and that's the asking! It does have 70k miles on the ticker, but that may or may not bother you. The good side of that - with that many miles on it in such a short time, that has to be a salesman's car with all highway miles. Looks to be in good shape. It's not the color I wanted, and I had already bought the one I now have two days ago. I thought I got a good deal at $10.5k very tight and clean with 57k miles until I saw that one - but I still think I got a good deal.

3. Prices are all over the place, but I have seen them drop over the 6 months I have been shopping around. What was $11.5 to 14k now can be had for well below $11k - and in very good condition. Used car dealers are having a very tough time right now, and the mfgrs. are stockpiling used cars right now to keep used car prices up so people will still have some incentive to go new.

4. Regarding road noise, I noticed it on my mother's '98 and other 98's that I test-drove - seemed to be bearing or tire noise from the rear axle, but probably due to poor sound insulation in the rear seat area rather than a mechanical problem. My '99 has no noise like that whatsoever - very quiet - they must have fixed that also for '99. Another reason to go with '99 or later, IMO.

Oh - and the '01 I looked at has the black letters on cream gages.

jsylvester · December 2001

I would e-mail all the local Chrysler dealerships within 50 miles, and ask them about any leftover 01's. After you get an idea of the supply, then you can decide how agressive to be.

rickgonz · December 2001

toms99:
sorry haven't come to this board in two weeks.
In the No. VA area, there are a couple of dealers who do the low-price car ads, you know the ones they advertise then when you come to the lot find out that the ones you REALLY want (with the bells n whistles)cost a little bit more.

Anyway, one of them is Darcars Fairfax Chrysler.
I waited for one of their ads back in April 99, it said $18k for a brand new 99 Concorde LX. I took the ad, went to their lot and looked for that car. Found it and bought it. Note that it was stock LX. No leather seats, no moonroof, no CD player, had the stock 2.7L engine, etc. And since there was only one on the lot, I could not choose the color. It is a candy apple red color, very attractive to cops hiding behind flyover pillars.

Three weeks ago they advertised a brand new 2001 Concorde LX for $17500. I figure that includes all of the factory incentives plus some holdback.
This is the same dealer who advertises "up to $7,000 discount on brand new 2001s" in big bold letters. I have not found out which car it is they have the 7,000 discount on. Probably a Grand Voyager.

In your case, you probably will get a good deal if you have the dealer come down to $19k+ from 23k, assuming you have some goodies on the car. Beware they don't get you back with a high APR. I usually go to the dealer with a pre-approved loan from my bank in my pocket. My bank will lend me 101% of the price of a new car. Or they might try to bring down the trade in price. Another nice thing Darcars did for my trade-in is the salesman went to the computer, showed me KBB.com, punched in the exact model car and mileage, printed out the 'seller' price and offered me 300 below it.
I asked for the price printed and he said ok.
It was for my 92 Toyota Camry with 61k miles worth $4500.

Chrysler Concorde

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