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Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

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  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    mirde98,

    Did the check engine light go off after the maintenance?
    Have you checked your gas cap and its gasket?

    I am thinking of having my car's A/C recharged.How much did they charge for A/C service? What is the right price for it?

    Thanks.
  • mirde98mirde98 Member Posts: 95
    edited May 2010
    Is the same code (P0446) i had since i bought the car last month. Yes i replaced the gas cap with a new one. Plus all those things i mentioned were serviced. So before tune up and still after tune up (code was erased with machine then keeps coming back) keeps saying P0446 EVAP. My AC was slowly leaking freon. They found a leaking valve (those where u hook the hose to charge the freon) and new freon. $125 i paid in a local shop.
  • meatypeteymeatypetey Member Posts: 9
    I would check for a bad head gasket. When the pressure builds in the cooling passages, it could be forcing moisture into your compressions chamber. With that may miles, it is definitle possible. Do compression check and that could tell you. Also, if you see white smoke out the exhaust that indicates water/antifrieeze. Sometimes the head gasket can leak a little bit at at time and make it hard to diagnose.
    Keep a close eye on your oil for any milky appearance that would indicate moisture is getting into your oil.

    If it turns out you do have a head gasket leak, take a good luck at your cyliner head for any type of warpage, Sometimes they can warp and the gasket can lose its seal. Sometiems the gasket just gets old.

    good luck!!
  • zipper5zipper5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Geo Prizm which has a loud "clunking" sound in the rear, especially when I go over bumps/potholes? Anyone have any ideas of what it might be? Thanks!
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Might be the strut/s.Do the strut test.Push the car down, see if it rebounces once, and not a few times.
  • lipservicelipservice Member Posts: 1
    I just got my 1998 Prizm LSI repainted. Looks great! But the belt molding on both rear doors has the rubber peeling off. That is the molding on the outside at the bottom of the windows. I found them for a Prizm but the price is too high in my opinion. Now I found them for a 1998 Corolla at half the price!

    Do 1998 Prizm and1998 Corollas have identical rear doors? So I can use the Corolla belt moldings on my Prizm?
    Thanks for the help!
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    As far as I know the trim is not the same.Doors are different in sizes too.It would not fit.But you should look into buying the parts from a salvage yard/ebay,craigslist.
  • meatypeteymeatypetey Member Posts: 9
    I would bet dimes to donuts you have a bad strut. The back struts have an extra wrinkle when changing them in that the back brake line may need disconnected and on older cars that can sometimes be tough. And if I remember correctly the back seat has to be removed to access the top bolts - but that is pretty easy -four bolts. There isn't really anything else back there to clunk. (Unless you threw your mother-in-law in the trunk :) )

    Hope this helps
  • softsayoceansoftsayocean Member Posts: 4
    I would check the bearings on the rear hub assembly. they are super easy to replace if that is it.
  • chowdhurychowdhury Member Posts: 1
    Dear All,

    I have a 1993 Geo prism. The car has about 142K miles in it. The car was running fine but one day I saw the speedometer was not working any more. I thought it was a bad battery and changed it. All the other meters are working on the dashboard. Now sometimes when I brake instead of stopping the car starts accelerating and the speedometer starts working. After sometime the brakes work again. I find this situation can be life threatening. So, can anyone point me to the problem. I am worried to drive my car to the mechanic. If anyone can point out what could go wrong, I will be greatful.

    Best,
    Omar
  • jill22jill22 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 chevy prizm and first the right half of the instrument panel backlight went out then a week later, the left side went out, also. The gauges themselves work fine. I replaced the gauges fuse inside the car and now the
    left side is lit up, but the right side is still out. The car manual doesn't offer
    any help, is there a different fuse for the right side? Or is it a burnt out bulb
    under the instrument cluster? Is it something I could do myself? Thanks in advance.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Omar, I am not sure but it might be related to a faulty transmission speed sensor.I will look it up from service manual and write again.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Jill22, I would check the electric connectors behind the instrument panel.It is easy to open but be careful in order not to break any plastic parts.
  • nkuchinskynkuchinsky Member Posts: 3
    I have been having consistent issues with my prizm for about 6 months now, in and out of the shop 6 times now and the problem is only worse HELP!

    First when I would try to take off my car would hesitate for about 3 seconds and then lurch forward and drive fine...untill the next stop. It did this randomly and not at every stop. The machanic told me to replace the O2 sensor and the throttle positioning sensor, and I did which helped for about a month.

    I took my car from CT to CO and the car drove perfect! On the way home it started doing the hesitation again at toll booths but the machanic thought it might just need to adjust to the altitude and the changing oxygen levels.

    By some chance, the car broke down the DAY I got home, and did the hesitation so bad that it took me nearly a half an hour to drive what normally takes me ten minutes.

    I brought the car to the machanic AGAIN and they cleaned out the sensors they had replaced and checked the mass airflow sensor. They said that the computer was giving them a lean air reading and that if the cleaning did not work I would need to replace the MAF.

    Within a day the Check engine light was back on and my car was doing a different problem. I replaced the MAF and it fixed any and all hesitation...but now a NEW problem has happened.

    When accelerating my car feels like it is bucking slightly. I press on the gass at a consistant amount yet my car feels like it is gaining and losing speed in quick little bursts untill it is up to about 45mph and then it is fine. Sometimes when I slow down and then try to pick back up speed the car has no power at all untill i put the petal to the floor and then it shifts and picks back up to speed fine.

    the CEL is on constantly and I have put new spark plugs in within the last year mind you, somebody told me to check the vaccume hoses or replace the fuel filter??

    HELPPPP

    thank you!!
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    I would suggest you use only factory recommended replacement parts, be it a spark plug or O2 sensor, the cheapest Denso or NGK works way better than Bosch for example.

    Throttle cable might need adjustment, it is visible, you can check the cable yourself.
    For engine surge, I would recommend use of Chevron Complete Fuel Treatment or a good alternative.It might be related to fuel pressure regulation, pumping or injectors.
    Make sure the spark plugs are the correct type (not multi electrode ones) and at the factory specified correct gap. Change the air filter.Check the cap and rotor (ignition), also make sure your battery terminals are free from oxidation (white fluffy stuff).

    Lastly, check your transmission fluid level and condition if it is auto.

    I hope you find the problem and solve it without spending much.

    P.S. I would also get the Chilton AND Haynes manuals for the car, they come in handy.

    Have you replaced the timing belt? It might be worn or skipping teeth.
  • meatypeteymeatypetey Member Posts: 9
    Have you replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor? It is behind the air cleaner in the air duct between the air cleaner and the intake manifold. There is a way to check them but it requires very senstive diagnostic equipment and careful monitoring of ambient temperatures. I had a very similari problem and this took care of it right away. easy to change. Hope this helps
  • nkuchinskynkuchinsky Member Posts: 3
    I just had the mass airflow sensor changed put new spark plugs in yesterday tried fuel cleaner treatment which has not completely ran through yet but I have used more than a half a tank of the gas with the treatment and my air filter is brand new from the last time I got an oil change less than a thousand miles ago and the surging is only getting worse...

    my car is not starting hard or shaking so I think that my timing belt is fine. I checked my transmission fluid and it is still red and the level is fine so I did not replace it.

    My car surges now every time I try to accelerate and it's driving me nuts because I have spent over 800 dollars now trying to fix every little thing. I have one of the manuals and it has helped me but it is hard because I can only look up parts not problems so I can only go to the guide when I have a place to start.

    Someone told me the rotor cap can get burned and leave carbon on the ions...but I have a 2000 prizm so I have 4 individual coils and no rotor cap according to the manual so this cant be the case.

    Do you think it could be a vacuum line or fuel filter issue? Im hesitant to do the fuel filter because it is expensive but I think it might be all I have left.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    What is the brand/product code of these spark plugs, and what were the ones taken out?What is the gap on the older ones and what is the gap on the newer ones?
    Mine is a 94, it has a throttle body to be cleaned, yours must have some kind of throttle system too.On older ones it is easy to clean, lots of dark grime there.
    They say not to replace parts without knowing they are faulty, but I would have done the same.
    This is from Haynes Corolla manual:
    Engine surges while holding accelerator steady:
    1.Intake air leak
    2.Fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator faulty (ch.4)
    3.Problem with fuel injection system(chapter 4)
    4.Problem with emissions control system(chapter 6)

    Engine stumbles on acceleration:
    1Spark plugs fouled
    2.Problem with fuel injection or engine control system
    3.Fuel filter clogged
    4.Incorrect ignition timing
    5.Intake manifold air leak
    6.Problem with emissions control system.

    Fuel filter, as far as I know, is not that expensive (20 dollars or so at rockauto.com)
    But before changing that I would read the code through a scanner (it is easier and cheaper to get one and do) and see what it says.

    Do you still have the old spark plugs? Picture of those might help in seeing whether or not they are fouled.

    http://www.expertcarcare.com/eccguide/graphics/Spark_plug_Outlook_Analysis.jpg
  • nkuchinskynkuchinsky Member Posts: 3
    on the back of the manual that I have there were pictures of different wear on spark plugs and it was hard to tell which mine was most like. It was white in color and almost looked like what they showed to be "ash and carbon build up". I had bosche spark plugs and replaced them with NGK and made sure that the heat range was correct and gapped them at about 42 I am not sure what the old plugs were gapped at.

    When I brought my car to the shop last time they cleaned my throttle body I just discovered when I looked at my receipt. They said that even after they cleaned it my car was giving them a "lean fuel" reading no matter what they cleaned or adjusted.

    thanks so much for your help it is so much nicer to have a second thought on what to try next!!

    The fuel filter for my car was about $130 for the part plus labor because my fuel filter is a part of the fuel pump I learned after reading up on them which is why I was trying to hold off on doing that but its starting to look like everything is pointing towards that as the faulty part.
  • 5354fan5354fan Member Posts: 1
    have you had any luck fixing the problem? My prizm is bucking all of a sudden and just as quickly stops and runs fine. When the problem occurs you can smell the converter has been hot. My check engine light does not ever come on. Any help is appreciated.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    I do not know if it ever makes a difference but NGK website says the spark plug gap should be .044

    Anyway I came accross with this website, it might contain information for solving your car's problem:

    http://www.random-misfire.com/

    http://www.aa1car.com/library/vacleak.htm

    'Hesitation or misfiring when accelerating. This may be due to a vacuum leak, but it can also be caused by a weak or inoperative accelerator pump in a carburetor, dirty injectors, or even ignition problems such as a cracked coil, worn spark plugs or incorrectly gapped plugs.'

    'On fuel injected engines, check for clogged injectors and the cold-start valve and circuit. You also need to check for correct fuel pressure settings.

    As a general rule on all computer-controlled engines, you need to also make sure that all input signals to the computer are working and accurate. This includes, but is not limited to, all temperature and pressure sensors as well as the EFI system components.

    Lastly on all engines, check for vacuum leaks and weak spark or low voltage output. (Good reason for a better coil and aftermarket ignition unit "amplifier").'
  • jrcw74jrcw74 Member Posts: 2
    I have been having a tough time finding someone to fix the buckle on the drivers side of my 97 Geo Prizm. It just decided to not clasp the buckle one day and it's been a pain ever since. I am wondering if there is a lifetime warranty on the buckle as some cars have the lifetime warranty. I am under a budget right now and would like to know if anyone knows of a decent mechanic who would fix it for me or maybe someone could suggest a good dealership in the area. I live in Wilshire/Koreatown. Any help is very much appreciated! Thanks!~
  • jrcw74jrcw74 Member Posts: 2
  • rkdrummerkidrkdrummerkid Member Posts: 2
  • rkdrummerkidrkdrummerkid Member Posts: 2
    My front bumper makes the most annoy rattles, and I'm not entirely sure what it is. I think it's coming from the corners, and it gets way worse when it's cold. Anyone have any ideas?
  • jhallbergjhallberg Member Posts: 1
    Hello - the back light on the climate control portion of the dash is no longer working. I tried replacing fuses, but no luck. My next guess is to check the bulb, but how to I get to it?
  • meatypeteymeatypetey Member Posts: 9
    If it si the one I am htinking of you will have to remove the panel. You might have have to take the center console out first, depending on which year. it has been a while since I took mine a part.
    The good news is the trim panel around the center dash console just clips and and can be take out pretty easily. I think there are a couple of screws you might have to take out to get to the back of the climate consol, ormight have to remove the radio to see (again not sure - been a while). I think you should see the bulb and wire in there. regardless not too tuff.

    hope this helps.
  • john2wdjohn2wd Member Posts: 3
    Go to a local salvage yard and get one off another prizm, but first look at the back of the owner manual that came with the car, Safty equipment might have a life time replacement, back in 94 I had a 87 Civic and the buckle stopped clasping and had the whole thing replaced because it had a lifetime replacement...
  • john2wdjohn2wd Member Posts: 3
    The black radio/climate control brazel pops off with a 1 inch wide putty knife so not to damage anything, there are no screws to remove as the ashtray is connected to the brazel surround with 2 screws, so it doesn't have to be removed, but do pull off the light on the ashtray (it just pops off) then unplug the flasher and defrost plugs and the 2 lighter plugs.
    There are 2 light bulbs for the climate control, one at the top and one in the middle, both are accessible by using your fingers, or take off the screws and pull it away some, it's up to you. They use fatter at the tip bulbs than the ones for the guage cluster and they have the blue condoms, the blue condoms just falls off the smaller around guage cluster bulbs if you try and reuse the blue condoms on the smaller around bulbs. To order from a Chevy dealer are almost 5 bucks for just 1, I got a bunch of them from other prizms at a salvage yard and corolla's and 2 worked, so saved 10 bucks...

    Ps. A trick to use is to take a blue marker and color the bulbs a few times to make them darker, take a few coats, allow a few minutes dry time between coats, but it does work. indelible ink works the best...
  • ldgeoldgeo Member Posts: 3
    My geo prizm goes through about 70 miles each day when i commute to and from school. Yesterday when i have driving back, about halfway to my house the battery light came on. It just on for a couple of seconds but then simply faded away. I somewhat "flickered" a few times and then stayed off...a bit later the light came back on and did the same "flickering" thing..and once again stayed off the rest of the way.

    Anyone have any advice for me? I've seen discussion about it being the alternator, but why would it flicker rather than stay on?
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Did flickering happen while turning the steering wheel?
    It might be related to the alternator, power steering belts.If they are loose or worn this might happen.
    Also check the battery terminals to see if there is fluffy white powder on them.If there is, you can clean them with a wire brush and apply some arm and hammer soda diluted in warm water.After they are clean of any residue, you can apply some petrolleum jelly to prevent future oxidation.
    I hope these measures takes care of it.
  • ldgeoldgeo Member Posts: 3
    now that you mention it, it may have been while i was turning, though i'm not too sure of it now...When i drove it to school this morning the light didn't come on at all.
    would you recommend taking it to the mechanic just to make sure? Or is there a way i could check myself?
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    You can check it yourself. The belt on the alternator pulley and other belts too..are easy to see.They should not be loose, when you push the alternator belt it should not move down much.
    I got a Haynes manual, it helps with illustrations etc.
    If the belt is loose, and not worn (you can see yourself if it is just loose or worn) you can have it tightened. I had it done once and they did not even charge me for it.
  • grouchofieldsgrouchofields Member Posts: 4
    I've got a 1997 Prizm with about 129k miles on it and bought it used at about 75k miles. It belongs to my daughter and we've never changed the plugs. Does anyone have a couple good recommendations? I've thought about Autolite Platinum or Platinum 2 and possibly even the Autolite Iridium plugs, but not sure they are worth the money (but all three have a rebate). Some guy who claims to be a Chevy tech who works at Carquest said NEVER put in anything but Delco (or other GM) product plugs. What do you all think? Also, do the platinum or iridium plugs increase gas mileage? :)
  • ldgeoldgeo Member Posts: 3
    I'll give it a try then. Thanks for the suggestions
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    edited October 2010
    NGK's cheapest plugs would be better than a more expensive autolite or Bosch.
    I had Bosch Platinum 4 on my car, one month into it, gas mileage fell to 12-13 MPG. I replaced them with the cheapest most simplest NGKs and I started getting 33-35MPG on my 94 Prizm with a/t.
    NGK and Denso have Iridiums too but I do not think they are worth it.

    Never ever put any Delco/GM parts in your Prizm. Geo Prizm is mainly a JAPANESE car. The best parts are Denso and NGK brands when it comes to spark plugs. NEVER GM parts.
  • grouchofieldsgrouchofields Member Posts: 4
    Another question regarding my daughter's 97 Prizm 1.6L. When installing one of those Prestone or Peak back flush kits, which of the two hoses coming from the heater core (from the firewall) do you connect the T connector to? There are two rubber hoses, one is very short and connects to a valve and the other is a lot longer. I did this years and years ago on a 67 Chevy II Nova but I have forgotten which hose the T connects to. I assume the longer of the two hoses. Also does anyone have any opinions on wether the cost is worth a professional power flush vs. a Prestone / Peak back flush, assuming that I will use the radiator flush / cleaner chemicals and a back flush kit? Thanks again. GF.
  • vitruvevitruve Member Posts: 2
    i have the same problem intermittently, often fixed by whacking the dash above the instrument cluster. a bit like the flux capacitor in back to the future. but my guess is this is a common problem. did you get it fixed? if so, how?
  • john2wdjohn2wd Member Posts: 3
    I've only use NGK spark plugs in my Toys even though I have a 97 Prizm now, I wouldn't have bought it if it didn't have a Toy drive train in it, For the price they are better made spark plugs then the others. Today I just spent $112.00 bucks on plugs/wires/cap/rotor from my local Toy dealership, Since I'm a valued customer I get an extra discount, they'll be in tomorrow afternoon. GM parts and there vehicles are junk!!!!
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Good price.
    LOL@ GM parts comment. I agree.
    Please report any mpg gains/improvements after parts replacement.
    Thanks. :)
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Will W0133-1628223 (Denso air filter) fit 1994 Geo Prizm? Parts stores catalogs say no.But both Corolla and Prizm of 1993-1997 have the same engines, air filter housing. Right?

    I got the Denso filter, tried putting it in, it almost fits but apparently GM put a tiny plastic in the air filter housing to force its customers use AC Delco filters only.

    Any experiences with fitting this Denso filter in 1993-1997 Geo Prizms?

    Can it be done? I see that Denso filter element is made with higher quality materials (not just paper) and I want to use Denso filter only. I need advice and guidance on how to fit this filter in the air filter housing.

    Thanks.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    NGK BKR5EYA11 with .032 spark plug gap.The best.
  • becky50becky50 Member Posts: 2
    Just got 92 Prizm. Doesnt seem to be getting fuel . Is there an emergency gas shut off on this car?
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Check for clogged fuel filter. And if you live in freezing temps, check for ice droplets in the gas. A methyl-hydrate equivalent should help with that.
  • becky50becky50 Member Posts: 2
    Checked the fuel filter , its good and its 79 degrees here today. Anything else I could check before I pull out whats left of my hair !
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    OK, at this point we need to know more than it doesn't seem to be getting fuel. What are the symptoms? Does it start OK? At what point does it seem to fail, and how?

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Will W0133-1628223 (Denso air filter) fit 1994 Geo Prizm? Parts stores catalogs say no.But both Corolla and Prizm of 1993-1997 have the same engines, air filter housing. Right?

    I got the Denso filter, tried putting it in, it almost fits but apparently GM put a tiny plastic in the air filter housing to force its customers use AC Delco filters only.

    Any experiences with fitting this Denso filter in 1993-1997 Geo Prizms?

    Can it be done? I see that Denso filter element is made with higher quality materials (not just paper) and I want to use Denso filter only. I need advice and guidance on how to fit this filter in the air filter housing.

    Thanks.
  • lovemygeoprizmlovemygeoprizm Member Posts: 4
    I'm seeing a lot of pink spots under the front of my 1995 Geo Prizm. After researching I realize it's the power steering fluid, and also makes a noise when turning, so I better take it in to the mechanic. Before I do that, does anyone know how much a, say, new power steering pump might cost? I'm assuming the worst scenario (I think a pump replacement is the worst scenario anyway). Thanks.
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    My friend has a 2000 prizm that has the same problem. So far no fix. Did any of you ever replace the headlights on your car? Her headlights illuminate very poorly. She replaced one but that didn't help they are poorly made. I've tried to find if there was a recall or a tech. bulletin but to no avail.!! Any suggestions??Thanks. :sick: :sick:
  • vitruvevitruve Member Posts: 2
    headlights themselves are fine; dash lights are partially out. havent gotten around to fixing. i've replaced the headlights several times; in fact i am quite pleased with them. there are diff kinds of bulbs of course, some with greater brightness / luminosity. perhaps they are not properly aligned? that might be the case, and is a quick fix for a layman or mechanic. good luck!
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