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Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

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Comments

  • salami1947salami1947 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased my first Prizm, so I thought I'd introduce myself to the forum and ask a couple of questions.

    It's a 96 with 145K, believe it's a 1.8 liter(it's a LSi). I think the car's general condition qualifies as "fair"based on KBB rating scale. The real good part is it only cost 850 so I don't have a lot to lose.

    The most apparent issue is body damage to the left rear door(smashed in, real bad). That's why there's junk yards, but I was wondering if a door from a Corolla would also fit.

    The car hasen't been driven much for the last couple of years and looks like it needs the basics, but it's had some maintenance done. It looks like it needs stuff like hoses, trans service(I read that at this cars milage things can happen), battery etc

    BTW, the car runs pretty good as is.

    As people expereinced with this car, what else as far as routine service would you recommend.

    thanks for your input
  • lovemygeoprizmlovemygeoprizm Member Posts: 4
    edited February 2011
    You're going to love this car. I bought a '95 Prizm in 1996 with 3000 miles on it, and now my college student uses it, it has 110,000 miles on it. Rattles like crazy but it gets her from point A to point B reliably.

    Then in October I bought another '95 Prizm for my soon-to-be 16 yr. old. It had 191,000 miles on it! Like you, I bought it for $750. It needed a new windshield and I had the oil & trans. fluid changed, new rear struts, put snow tires on it, some hose leaks fixed, new battery, and around $1000 later it was on the road. Runs great. It gets up my driveway in the snow while my 2002 Sable wagon is marooned for the winter. Really came in handy this winter. And these cars are fun to drive - very responsive. (Oh yeah, it does have a power steering fluid leak right now, but I have a feeling that will be easy to fix)

    Good luck!
  • skb4eskb4e Member Posts: 2
    Thats not true. :mad:
  • skb4eskb4e Member Posts: 2
    Autozone cannot do this in older model cars, usually 95 and less
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    Hi skb4e - you might want to check the dates on messages you're responding to. This one was from 2003. I suspect the member has already figured out the problem by now!

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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  • mika3585mika3585 Member Posts: 2
  • mika3585mika3585 Member Posts: 2
    i'm trying to find me an owner manual for my 1995 manual geo prizm the owner before me didn't give it to me and also i need to get another key for it so do i have to order a new key or what
  • ucfknight1ucfknight1 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1995 Geo Prizm. It has run 99K miles. The car is vibrating now and different mechanics suspect different problems about the car. I got one mechanic who asked me to replace the following parts

    1. Rack and pinion.
    2. Struts.
    3. Lower Control Arms.

    The estimated cost was around 1000 bucks. is it worth getting it fixed with a uncertified mechanic for 1000 bucks, from a dealer for 2300 bucks or is it worth selling it off and buying a new one?
  • meatypeteymeatypetey Member Posts: 9
    Hi -
    I have had three of these things and never replaced a rack and pinion or lower contol arms. Unless the rack is leaking or the control arms show serious visible wear I cant believe those are your the problem (My last one had 250,000 hard miles before it retired & my current one has 160,000 hard miles on it). The fact that his guess is that "wild" tells me he does'nt know what is is and may be wasting your money by trying a shotgun approach to fixing it.

    most likely (depending on when the vibration occurs) it could be struts, or a bad cv joint (drive axle) or potentially a wheel bearing (but unlikely). For that matter it could simply be bad or out of balance tires (or if you live where it is muddy or snowy mud or snow can pack up on the inside of the wheel and throw the balance off making it vibrate), If it had more miles on it and the vibration only occurred at really high speeds it could be transmission output shaft bearings (but this is probably unlikely).

    If you hear a kind of slight clunky noise or feel more viration when turning the wheel it might be a cv joint.Take a look at your front tires for uneven wear patterns. this can indicate a bad strut. If you feel the bumps a little harder than you think you should, or hear clunk when you hit potholes then most likely Struts. (struts will also sometiems leak oil when they are bad) There are a lot of little things as well that can cause vibrations.

    Find someone who has a good idea of how to troubleshoot your problem.

    I definitely wouldn't spend $1k on speculations. These are pretty good cars. take the time to figure it out. Mechanically this car is an exact twin of a toyota corrola (except for body and trim)and when taken care of can easily exceed 200,000 miles.

    I hope this helps.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Vibration is felt exactly when? While driving slow? Driving fast? At idle?

    It might be engine mount/s if you see the engine shaking when it is running.
    But like the previous message said, these cars run forever if you do the basic maintenance. When something breaks it is usually easy/cheap to fix.Things do not break easily.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    edited April 2011
    Now my question:

    What is the size of automatic transmission drain plug? What is the tool to use for drain&refill service? An allen wrench? Sockets?

    Car is 1994 Geo Prizm with 4 speed auto. (158K miles).
  • billb60billb60 Member Posts: 3
    It almost sounds like you took it to a Tires Plus store - as they always manage to "find" problems with every car that comes in!

    I have a 1999 Prism with over 275,000 miles on it, and have never had to replace any of what you've been told.

    I'd take it to a reputable mechanic (if any still exist today) to get it checked out.

    Either way, I would not spend $2300 to get it fixed... I'd use that money to find a newer used car.
  • ruddneckruddneck Member Posts: 23
    If you can feel it in the steering wheel at high speed (55+ mph), chances are it is a badly worn tire or a bent wheel. Start with the cheap and easy fixes first.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Also could be a wheel bearing.
  • hubbsy176hubbsy176 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 94 prizm with the 1.6. While driving it will just shutdown, starts right back up, and will be fine. Just never know when it will do it. It has a complete tuneup, new fuel filter and fuel pump. Check engine light has not come on. Any suggestions? Thank you :confuse:
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    It happened to my 1994 Prizm too.

    Mine was related to corroded battery poles. Just get a battery post cleaner (wire brush), clean the rust, then add a a few drops of hot watyer+baking soda mix over the rusty part, clean the residue and then tighten the battery cables. I hope it solves your problem too.
  • hubbsy176hubbsy176 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks I will try that.
  • thickumthickum Member Posts: 1
    just had a constant growling noise pop up out of nowhere and is consistent starting around 20mph tryin to pinpoint the noise anyone have any ideas?
  • thacherthacher Member Posts: 15
    Hi,
    1990 Geo Prizm; Vin code6. LSI; 3spd. Auto.

    I'm aware that the correct fluid for the differential part of the transaxle is ATF. according to the manufacture. Have you ever heard of people putting in gear oil instead [80W-90]. I've had several mechanics tell me that this an an accepted fluid. I had to have a transaxle installed in my Prizm recently and the installer used gear oil [80W-90] instead of the ATF. for the diff. And he's certain that it's alright.
    What do you folks think of this. Thank you for your opinions.
    Henry
  • hubbsy176hubbsy176 Member Posts: 4
    Well I found a local junk yard that is very reasonable. Bought the throttle body and the distributor. Ran it until problem started and changed throttle body, same thing. Replaced distibutor and runs great. I bought both of those items along with an antenna and rim/tire combo for a total of $80.00. Thanks for the input. See if we can get another 207,000 miles out of her. ;)
  • ucfknight1ucfknight1 Member Posts: 6
    Since yesterday oil light like this : http://autorepair.about.com/od/lightsbuzzers/qt/oil_light.htm is on. Can anyone please tell me what does it infer? My car has run 101k. It has run 3300 miles since last oil change. I will be getting it changed soon. But I would like to know if there could be any more problems.
  • hubbsy176hubbsy176 Member Posts: 4
    Could just be that since you are near an oil change that your oil is too thin. I had an old van and just before oil changes the light would come on.
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Check your oil level on the dipstick. Check if your filter is screwed on tight enough, it should not be too tight either. The oil pan bolt should be tight enough also. I hope there is a washer there.

    What kind of oil filter are you using? What grade/weight,brand of oil are you using?

    It is easy to change oil and filter on a Geo Prizm/Toyota Corolla. You do not even need jacks,ramps etc. Filter too is easily reachable.
  • ucfknight1ucfknight1 Member Posts: 6
    I took it to my mechanic today morning and it was found that there was no oil in the engine at all. He then filled 2Quarters of 10/40 regular oil and asked me to check for an oil leak when it is parked. Any thoughts on this?

    I forgot to get the air filter changed. I will be visiting my mechanic again for that.

    Changing oil and filter is easy, But I would like to visit mechanic atleast for this so that it can be like a regular checkup of my car.
  • mirde98mirde98 Member Posts: 95
    First time posting here from Orlando FL. I own a 2002 Chevy Prizm LSi, 4AT, Gold/beige kinda color w/ tan interior. Has 165,300 miles on it. Pretty reliable I must say. I get 30MPG average. Besides routine maint, i changed the sparks to Iridium, flushed coolant, and fixed a AC leak. Plastics and trim are cheap in this cars, replaced both inside and outside driver side door handles. But i guess for this mileage is ok. Also, I noticed this car drinks oil. About a qt per 30-60 days. No oil leaks, no smoke, just dissapears. I guess should be going away through the piston rings. I'll just keep adding oil since I've read is a common problems with this Corolla/Prizm models. Car looks sharp, paint still shines. Im happy with it. :)
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    I am sorry I did not see your post before.
    As I said the oil filter should be tight, oil plug on the oil pan should be tight enough.These areas are the palces oil leaks usually. Probably they did not tighten the bolt or the filter at the last oil change place.
    10W40 is thicker oil, maybe because they thought it needed it since oil loss, but the factory specified 5W30 for these cars in winter, 10W-30 possibly in summer.
    Air filter is visible, you can change it yourself in a minute.No need to pay extra for it.If you need the part number I can look it up for you.

    How is the car doing now?
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Welcome here mirde98, whay you have is the next generation to what I have.Different engine design also.Because of the newer engine design, these cars usually burn oil.

    Check the PCV (valve) often, and replace if it is not good (when you shake it should rattle, if it does not it is bad).PCV is very much related to oil.

    I hope you get a couple of hundred thousand miles out of it unless you want to sell it some day.
  • technomastertechnomaster Member Posts: 2
    I had a ton of problems with electrical problems and turn signal relay switch box.Im glad I got rid of it.
  • mirde98mirde98 Member Posts: 95
    I'll make sure to check that!! Thanks for the advice.
  • 200000club200000club Member Posts: 1
    Just recently my dependable 95 geo prizm turned undependable. In a matter of 2 weeks my engine light and O/D light came on. Codes were 42 (vehicle speed sensor circuit), 62 (NO. 1 shift solenoid circuit), 71 (EGR System???). The cruse control went out as well. I replaced the battery, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Coils with in the two weeks as well. I replaced the vehicle speed sensor (pain) this weekend. EGR Valve is working properly. Need to look into Codes 62 and 71 more. The car is running pretty good. It still skips/jerk every now and then after i replaced the vehicle speed sensor. Anybody have this problem and what worked for you? Does the PCM need to be reprogrammed after replacing any of these parts???
  • geobluegeoblue Member Posts: 71
    Have you checked the level and condition of transmission fluid before replacing speed sensor? (I am assuming it has auto transmission.)

    Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, that is good enough for reprogramming as far as I know.

    I hope you get years of reliable service out of your Prizm.
  • keithh1keithh1 Member Posts: 12
    I know this is an old thread but I found out where a lot of the oil was going on my 98 Prizm. The PCV valve grommet gets old, dried out and hard. This prevents it from sealing and oil leaks out and runs down the back of the engine and onto the exhaust pipe where it burns off. No drips, no smoke out the exhaust. Just the smell of burning oil when you turn off the engine. A new grommet is less than $3.50....
  • cozzens7cozzens7 Member Posts: 1
    i have the exact same problem with my 94 geo prizm, did you ever find out what was wrong?
  • gradstud3gradstud3 Member Posts: 1
    Hello...if you wouldn't mind, could you please email to me the PDF manual for the 1997 Geo Prism. I need to get some spark plugs for my car as it is riding a bit rough.

    Thanks
  • keithh1keithh1 Member Posts: 12
    edited December 2011
    As a continuation to the discussion of where the oil goes on 1998 Prizm: First it was leaking from the PCV grommet on the valve cover. Then valve cover gasket was also dried out and cracked and thus leaking. We'll see if that's finally fixed all the oil leaks.
    Keith
  • keithh1keithh1 Member Posts: 12
    The driver's side front tire will wobble back and forth when the car is jacked up off the ground. To me, this means a bad wheel bearing. The parts store wants to sell me the entire front spindle and bearing kit. The bearing is not pressed on yet though. I haven't got the car up on jackstands yet to see how hard this will be. Anybody done this job?
    Keith
  • keithh1keithh1 Member Posts: 12
    Replying to myself... I did fix all the oil leaks in my 1998 Prizm and it still uses oil. Where does it go? It goes past the rings and into the combustion chamber. I removed the oil cap while the engine was running and oil smoke came out. The dreaded blow-by. I guess the EGR system recycles enough oil smoke through the system that it doesn't put a lot out the tailpipe--not even enough to notice, but it's definitely burning oil. I have a friend with a Prizm AND a Corolla and they BOTH do the same thing. Another friend has a Corolla and it does it as well. All four cars are under 200,000 miles. Oh well.
    Keith
  • myewebmyeweb Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Geo prizm with the 4AFE 1.6 Liter engine. how feasable is it to swap it out for a 4A-GZE, or even better, a 20 Valve 4A-GE with vvt. i was thinking of flashing the ecu but am not sure what programmer i can use since its obd1. im looking to get more low end power from my car, and so far have put an induction system, iridium spark plugs, and plan to get a high flow muffler soon. any suggestions, or what would be involved to swap out the engine? Thanks!

    myeweb
  • captainkirk2captainkirk2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 Geo Prizm in need of the latch portion for the driver's seat belt (latch portion actually bolts to the seat). It appears there were two different size mechanisms in use. The new part I got from Toyota for a '96 Corolla as well as a latch from a junk yard from a '95 Prizm was for a seat belt tab that's about 1 1/8" wide. But my seat belt tab is only about 7/8" wide and will not work in the wider latch.

    Does anyone know where I can get the narrower style latch? Or of someone who rebuilds seat belt latches?

    Thanks very much. Bob
  • gfs99prizmgfs99prizm Member Posts: 1
    Her check engine light is on for evap I know its the canister frilter since can't fix by cap replacement or fuel treatment. Other issue is it keeps bogging down til you hit about 2600 rpms changed plugs and wires valve cover gasket and the random missfire P0300 P0302 P0303 went away when change plugs. Now it is still bogging down after change and codes were cleared the number 2 and 3 cylinder are working but not as much as 1 and 4 is they are very sluggish. We are thinking its a fuel injector since they have 139000 miles on them. Any insight? If any answer are out there working on this tomorrow I will have my cell 3154069729 could use some help can't get the parts yet just going to pull the top of motor apart to make sure no leaks.
  • thacherthacher Member Posts: 15
    Hello,
    1990 Prism, VIN code 6; 150,000m.

    When I switch it on ignition, [when engine is cold] the cooling and air conditioner [its turned off]
    fans come on at the same time. I've tested the temperature switch and it's fine. I've looked at the relays and fuses and they seem fine also. Any ideas?
    Thank you,
    Henry
  • davec4davec4 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone know if the 1999 Chevy Prizm has a cabin filter and if so, how do I get to it?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    It does not have a cabin filter. Basically, same car as a '99 Corolla.
  • alexmcydalexmcyd Member Posts: 1
    Use a punch tool and sledge to drive the stud out the back of the hub. Autoparts stores can sell you a replacement stud for a few dollars. Get a short stack of thick washers that allow the stud to pass through the center. These will allow you to put the lug nut on without bottoming out your lug wrench. Push the new stud through the hub from the back aligning the grooves in the stud with the ones in the hub if they are grooved. Put the wheel nut on reversed so the wide part of the nut is against the washers. Turn the nut to pull the stud through the hub. Watch the back side to pull it only as far as needed to fully seat the stud.
  • mannyv73mannyv73 Member Posts: 1
    Heres a possible solution to the check engine light. These cars are known for an oil leak at the rear of the block where the timing chain tensioner is located. The tensioner has a round rubber gasket that leaks. That leak allows oil to be burnt by the engine it is going out the exhaust, and coating the catalyst, and the oxygen sensor. It took months for me to diagnose the issue. I replaced the tension as it came with a new rubber gasket as well as a strong spring to apply proper tension to the timing chain.

    I replaced the damaged o2 sensors which cleared all the codes. Car runs great now! Another thing to check depending on the code is the intake manifold gasket. Its metal and can warp which leaves a very tiny amount of air into the intake which gives the car the "lean fuel" code.
  • tristiacontristiacon Member Posts: 1
    We are getting some horrible and I mean horrible gas mileage and serious lack of power and high Rpm's on our car. Our manifold converter is I desperate need of replacement and after speaking with a muffler shop, who btw tried to hit us hard with costs, we decided to replace it ourselves. But in the meantime can we gut it out and drive it like that or do we risk damaging the engine? Can it be bypassed completely? Can we get some info on this from anyone who's had these issues??
    Thanks for your response....
  • dadtofourdadtofour Member Posts: 3
    I have a 94 Geo Prizm 1.6 L that will not start. This is the second time in as many months where this has occurred. After the first, I found that the coil was bad and got back up and running after that replacement. Now, I find that I am not getting sufficient power to the fuel pump for it to run. I have tested both the EFI main relay and the other relay in the circuit (can't recall the name), and get battery voltage to the downstream relay but only a small voltage (100 mV) coming out. I tested the fuel pump, and applied battery voltage directly to it and it works. What other sensors or relays are coming into play here that I need to check?
  • sadiereysadierey Member Posts: 1
    yeah problem with shifting out of park and brake lights not working. BUT I can get them to work if i tighten up my brake pedal. I HAVE not seen this on other posts. RAW pumping up the pedal COLD and making it tight I can have brake lights for a couple of stops until it gets loose. then I Lose contact with sensor. Whatup? I need brake lights damnabgit I live in San Diego
  • prizmgurlprizmgurl Member Posts: 21
    gabagooo said:

    I just bought a 1999 Prizm with 18200 miles on the clock and a three speed transmission. Most of the driving that I have been doing has been short distance, around town. I live in upstate New York, where it has been snowy and cold. On my last tank of gas, I averaged just 17 mpg. Pretty poor. The Corsica I was driving before the Prizm was getting 22 mpg under the same circumstances and it had a 3.1 ltr V-6! Any thoughts on the poor mpg? Also, the engine seems to idal pretty high (no tach) but I would guess at least at 1200 rpm. Tell me, fellow Prizm owners, is this how Prizms behave? Thanks for any insights that you may have.

    I have no real experience with 3 speed, as my family's had only the 4 and 5 speed. However, we once temporarily turned off the overdrive on one of the 4 speeds and it was more rev-y. The 4 speeds were a '93 and we still have the '02 with nearly 129000 miles. The 5-speed was totaled 9 years ago with about 70,000 miles on it and was an '02. The '93 was taken off the road in '05 with 178615 miles on it, due to rust. Btw, I live in upstate NY, too. Lewis County.
  • prizmgurlprizmgurl Member Posts: 21
    rworrell said:

    Homer, I bought a 93 Geo Prizm LSi with 91K, stick, a/c as my winter car. I don't know if he's looking at the base or the LSi, but the LSi has some nice upgrades over the base, my favorite being the split folding rear seat. Note that on these cars, even the tach is optional!

    That being said, I highly recommend the car. As you probably know, it's basically the same as a Toyota Corolla (built on the same line, but they tend to sell for a lot less). It's pretty fun to drive with the stick, as well. A friend of mine had one with an auto and it SUCKED! I get around 26-27 mpg in city-only driving and I drive it pretty hard (my main car is a Miata, so I tend to flog my winter cars!).

    Let me know if you have any other questions. I think he'd like the car--but make sure he's prepared for the fact that when people hear you have a Geo, they always think of the Metro. Even if you say it's a Prizm, they still think of the Metro. No wonder Chevy dumped the marque... :)

    When Metro sedans came to this country, My dad said"looks like a baby Prizm.". Since I was a baby/young child in the Geo years, I merely know Geo car names, Trackers were Jeep-like and that some Prizms were LSi (like ours) and some weren't. It was a '93 Geo Prizm, Polynesian Green, very basic LSi. Automatic 4-speed, AC, tape player, tachometer, 1.8 Liter engine and whatever else the LSi package had to offer in '93.
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