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Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

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  • djkdjk Member Posts: 1
    I have a '02 Prizm with 47K miles and have encountered my first problem with the vehicle. The two lower speeds on the HVAC fan don't work. The higher two are fine. I assume it's just a fuse, but I'm not sure which one. The owner's manual isn't much help. There are fuses for the fan, heater, etc. in the instrument panel block as well in two of the three fuse compartments under the hood. I'm really trying to avoid going to the dealer and paying $50 to have a fuse changed. Can anybody help?
  • tmywtmyw Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1990 Geo Prizm and to this date I believed that I had a 3 speed auto transmission. A couple of pages back I read that the difference between the 3 and 4 speed is that the 4 speed has an additional button at the shift selector to engage/activate the 4th speed. Mine does have this button at the bottom of the selector. It is marked "overdrive shift lock", however when I pressed it for the first time to day it sure gets pushed down in and my fingers do not at all feel any action or engagement taking place underneath the cover.It simply springs back to its initial position. And there was no difference in the noise or the speed changing pattern after I pushed this button down. Could it be that this transmission shift cover(plastic cover) was a standard used for both the 3 and 4 speeds but in the 3 speeds the button is with no internal mechanical linkage to the gears?
    I even pushed it down and stayed for a time,- no change again. Or do you press this button in combination with any of the shift selections i.e D, L, 2 etc.? Another related question....Is it possible or is it not damaging to the transmission to change the shift, say from D to L while the vehicle is in motion at a high speed? Do the 90 Prizms have a 4 speed auto transmission at all?

    Thanks for any help....
  • asafonovasafonov Member Posts: 401
    Our old 1996 Prizm had a 3-speed auto and it did NOT have an overdrive button. I believe this button was present only in 4-speed, overdrive-equipped ones.
  • tmywtmyw Member Posts: 3
    Can any one explain why the steering wheel starts to vibrate at speeds above 65 and steering becomes erratic and the vehicle is all over the freeway? Is such behavior normal for small cars? The above is despite balanced wheels and front end.

    Thanks for any help....
  • mugwumpjmugwumpj Member Posts: 1
    I've had my 2000 Prizm for about a year. There's been a clanking (tinny metal on metal) noise from under the hood on and off during this time. Recently, it's been constant. Seems to be coming from the belt area. Has anyone else experienced this? Is it normal for this car? Maybe it's the timing chain?
  • imadad2imadad2 Member Posts: 79
    It could be a bad tire. I had the same thing happen with my 2000 Prizm. I first thought it was a wheel alignment issue, but the problem did not go away after getting one done. You need to have all your tires pulled and looked at. A broken belt in a tire cannot be detected unless the car is lifted off the ground or the tire is removed.

    If you have had this done, I have no idea. Putting new tires on eliminated my problem. Any one else have any ideas?
  • tmywtmyw Member Posts: 3
    The culprits in this case were found to be 2 bad tyres.I replaced all four tyres and that excessive vibration at the steering wheel is now totally gone, save ofcourse, that component of it which is associated with the smallness of the Prizm's engine ( i.e inability at times to meet demand ).
    Thanks for any suggestions forwarded here.
  • hess7hess7 Member Posts: 4
    The vehicle is a 96 stn, geo prizm with 77k. I bought it from a senior who has had the vehicle for six years and the only maint. has been tires and oil changes, she did have a receipt for plugs put in dec 2001. What maint. do I need to do now? The only two things wrong that I notice are the tape player has a tape stuck that will not come out. How do I get it out? The second problem is the trunk lid. The vehicle must have been rear ended at one time because the left side of the lid is one eight highand the right side two eights high. I can push down on the lid and it fits flush but comes back up. Could a lock relocation help? As far as I know she did not put any muffler or brake pads on the car. What should I expect. Thanks in advance. Harry
  • hess7hess7 Member Posts: 4
    S0rry but I forgot I thing. When I turn the wheel to the left I get a rubbing sound to the right nothing. No click as in cv joints. Could the rubbing sound which is fairly loud be the start of a cv joint going bad. Thanks Harry
  • zgdzgd Member Posts: 3
    I have the exact same problem on my 1999 Prism a few days ago. Have you found out how to fix it? Thanks in advance.
  • rangefinderrangefinder Member Posts: 1
    Are the trunk lids on a 90 GEO and 90 Corolla interchangeable?
  • jimmy3jimmy3 Member Posts: 3
    Our Chevrolet Prizm has been in and out of a local car repair station and the dealership - no one can determine why the check engine light keeps coming on. They have checked everything - even cleaned the engine. The real problem is...we cannot have the car pass the state mandatory inspection....it will not pass the test with a check engine light. I can't even get the rejected sticker. Is anyone else having a problem with the prizm check engine light?
  • zgdzgd Member Posts: 3
    I have a '99 Prizm with 72K miles; her HVAC fan only runs at the highest speed. Can anybody provide a clue? Thanks.
  • trex2trex2 Member Posts: 2
    i have the same problem. so far i have replaced o2 sensors and some other 200.00 part that the mechanic said cant be tested for failure but we could try to replace it to see if it works. mechanic says everything else in car is working fine. check engine light was off for 1 day after that part was replaced(just cant remember name of it right now). i came here looking for ideas on what it could be. i have 7 more days to get my check engine light off before inspection expires. any help is appreciated. mine is a 2000 LSi with 60,000 miles
  • trex2trex2 Member Posts: 2
    i had that problem recently - mechanic replaced blower motor and i have all speeds again. 2000 LSi with 60,000 miles.
  • zndznd Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info.
  • infinia1infinia1 Member Posts: 174
    does anyone know where i can get a fuel filter for an 02 prizm, besides the dealer? the chevrolet dealer wants $35! i've checked napa, autozone, and checker and none of them carry it. part numbers? i guess i could try the toyota dealer too...thanks.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    A fuel filter??? On '98 and newer Corollas, there is no replacement fuel filter. You don't have to replace it. Since the Prizm is really a Corolla, I am sure you don't have to replace it.
  • imadad2imadad2 Member Posts: 79
    I own a 2000 Prizm. The fuel filter is in the gas tank. Quite an expensive fix. I was quoted $250 - $300 through a Chevy dealership. My local mechanic stated that he has never replaced a fuel filter in a Prizm or Corrolla. I had a hesitation in my vehicle and thought it was a fuel filter. I changed the air filter and bought some Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner. Problem solved. Try that first before dropping huge dollars on replacing the fuel filter.
  • prizmcoasterprizmcoaster Member Posts: 14
    Anytime the check engine light comes on and the car seems to be working properly, take the car to a very reputable muffler shop. Here in DFW, the shop is Pronto Muffler in Plano, TX on 75 Central Expressway. They only charge $40 for the diagnostic ($80 at the dealer) and if they can do the work, it is credited towards the work.
      My light was on, but I got 37 mpg (98 Prizm) so I took it there. They diagnosed, replaced the catalytic converter in 30-45 min., charged $200 (including tax and all fees), and that was the end of it. The light has never come back on since.
      It is usually the catalytic converter in the Prizm in that situation if it is high miles and nothing seems to be wrong. A dealer tends to charge double, triple, or more for the work since they don't weld all day long like muffler shops.
      CC's are designed to wear out eventually.

    PC
  • knightknight Member Posts: 1
    Hey PC. What is your definition of high miles. I have a 2001 Prizm (58,000 miles) I just bought from a dealer a week ago and the check engine light just came on. It's under warranty thank goodness. I did put brand new tires (65,000 mile tires) on it and wonder if that is what is causing the problem. The enginge seems to be running great. Thanks!
  • prizmcoasterprizmcoaster Member Posts: 14
    It still sounds like a possible catalytic convertor issue to me. Mine was getting 37 MPG with the check engine light on. It is a problem because you won't pass emissions inspection not because it will harm the engine.
    If it is under warranty, take it to the dealer.
    These covertors usually last 100,000 miles I think but that is just an estimate. The original in my Prizm went 130,000. Some go the life of the car.

    If you bought a 2001, it might have been owned by someone who KNEW they weren't keeping it long-term and put cheap gas in it. They may have also not maintained the car well.

    There is almost NO chance that the tires are causing the problem if you ask me.

    Good luck.
  • maxtempomaxtempo Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Prizm with 71k miles. I also had the fan problem. I checked out a chilton manual on the Prizm and it suggested the blower motor resistor. When I removed the resistor I could see it was burnt.It is located right below the glove box. I could only find the part at the dealer. Thirty dollars and about 10 minutes later the fan was and is still working perfectly.
  • prizmcoasterprizmcoaster Member Posts: 14
    If HVAC means the internal fan for the Heat and Cooling, mine also only runs at the highest speed. The cooling will actually come on at the lower settings, without fan. This means that the air blowing in off the vent has to do the trick for cooling.
    I'd also appreciate any more input on people successfully fixing this or how much it cost to have it fixed.

    PC
  • stevelstevel Member Posts: 5
    The previous post is correct. The resistor for the fan is bad. I took mine out and found the break in the circut etch and soldered a jumper across it. Cost, $0.00. The fan resistor is mounted on the bottom of the air box underneath the passenger side dashboard and held in with 2 screws. ( It gets very hot and is put there so incomming air blows over it and cools it down).
  • infinia1infinia1 Member Posts: 174
    anyone else believe that the headlights of the prizm are weak? i had the dealer check their alignment on my 02 prizm; they were within spec. i'm thinking of trying to adjust the aim a little higher. they just don't light up enough of the road ahead of me at higher speeds.
  • backwaterbassnbackwaterbassn Member Posts: 1
    My great little 96 Prizm (120k miles on 1.6L) burns about a quart of oil every thousand miles. From searching the forum it sounds like this is pretty common. Has anyone rebuilt the engine and determined what the cause is? I'm guessing the rings or valves are the problem. I'm still getting around 30 mpg so its not affecting my mileage but I'm wondering if burning all this oil is hurting anything and if so is it worth tearing into?
  • ash2ash2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 prizm with the 5 speed manual trans....Bought it 4 years ago with 40000 miles on it, no problems til this year. 60,00 miles replaced clutch. 65000 miles,replaced clutch again (warrantied so labor only). 70,000 miles it would clunk and engine or trans seemed to jump upon ignition and in reverse it made noise. Took it to mechanic, he said bad tranny mount. Talked to another mechanic who said there are no tranny mounts, just engine mounts? After a month the tranny mount came in, was installed, mechanic now says the vibration/noise that occurred only in reverse before is now worse and even does it in forward and while idling, and he suspects soem problem (not sure what yet) in either the trans or engine. Am I getting taken for a ride? I've used this mechanic for quite awhile and have no reason to distrust him. Any suggestions or ideas on what the problem might be?
  • 2te98282te9828 Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 Prizm has the 1.6L DOHC. I'm gonna try resurfacing the head, cross my fingers, and hope the cams will still turn. Does anyone know how much meat they give you to take off the head before things actually start going south?
  • dselldsell Member Posts: 18
    My 95 Prizm has been burning oil as well, but only when I start it up or at hard acceleration. I have almost 256K miles on a 1.6L original engine and its still going. At this point I dont see any reason to worry about a quart or two between changes... but I might be in the minority =). Internally, I would think its probably worn valve guides or ??? Externally, I would look at your valve cover gasket and the drain plug for sources of leakage also. Both of these were leaking, especially the seals around the spark plug wells. They hardened up and needed replacement. I didnt have to replace oil quite as much as before after the seal replacement.

    Keep it wet!
  • mmx6mmx6 Member Posts: 18
    To all you 98-02 Prizm owners, are your rear speakers the same tiny 4-inch drivers that Edmunds noted in their 2000 economy car test of the 2000 Corolla?

    http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/comparison/articles/43900/page011
  • prizmcoasterprizmcoaster Member Posts: 14
    The rear speakers aren't that great. Not a bad sound system all in all for a 1998 economy car. The problem with mine is that I'm on the 3rd radio...there seems to be an electrical problem that fries it AND speakers. I'm on my 3rd radio...all replaced under extended warranty.
    Now I have 139,500 miles, so I hope it lasts.
    Electrical problems have been my main gripe with this little supercar. The cig lighter is trash and little lights are out everywhere on the dash, AC display, etc.

    How can I be too mad when I can still get 37 MPG on the highway in car with almost 140,000 miles.

    PC
  • 1956cricket1956cricket Member Posts: 1
    My son's 98 Prizm shuts down if the headlights are turned on or if the lever is pulled to flash the headlights. Also if the emergency flashers are turned on it causes the engine to pulse trying to shut down, and will if the RPMs are not kept high enough. Any insight as to what may be the problem or where to look would be greatly appreciated.
  • ljt190ljt190 Member Posts: 3
    Whoops. I have a 2001 LSI and suddenly have a squeaky dash, and a more annoying one either in the passenger seat or the console. DHAs anyone else experienced? Fixes?
  • prizmbugprizmbug Member Posts: 2
    My son could not close (latch) the driver's door of his 99 Prizm. He lives in a very cold area, so I don't know if that's a factor. The latch mechanism would move, but would not keep the door closed. Before I spend a fortune by having him go to a dealer, any suggestions?

     

    By the way- thanks SO much for the tip on the blower motor resistor. Under $30.00 and I fixed it myself!
  • bmascowbmascow Member Posts: 1
    I have owned a 98 chevy/toyota prizm for about a year and a half. This car is great, I have owned 3 other cars before this from a 94' ss s10, a 94' probe gt (which I had the most problems with) and a 94' grand am gt.

     

    Surprisingly with the 5 speed manual this prizm keeps up with or is a tiny bit quicker than the past cars (given the past cars were all automatics). I've put on 93,000 mi and the only thing I've had to change is the oil. This car is super reliable even starting it up in 0 degree weather when its been sitting for 3 days is no problem. The Toyota 1.8 liter motor is pretty strong, and is underrated. Granted it comes nowhere near being a race car it keeps up with what you'd be surprised.

      

    I have put on an arospeed exhaust system and cut the cat off (it's not to loud and sounds like a crotch rocket) rebuilt the trans and put in a short shifter, got some konig rims, dunlop tires and dropped the front end 4 inches, which makes it corner pretty well. The thing I like most about this car is that its really light and picks up quickly in 1st and 2nd gear, then 3rd is alright, I know talking about this car like its a race car and modifying it sounds foolish but its really fun car to drive and thats what counts the most besides reliability which is what the car is designed for and also getting groceries which the car is a 10 out of 10 stars.

      

    Surprisingly this car is great in the snow, I haven't gotton stuck yet this year and have driven through some pretty deep snow, I just wish I could cheaply convert it into all wheel drive like the subaru's. With only 120 hp this car is suprisingly quick, until you hit 4th gear, I don't race people because that would make me feel like an idiot in a prizm.

     

    Overall with all the ragging the engine has takin' (I said I don't race people, but when I get on a side street, I'll put it to the floor)

    the motor in this car seems indestructible and runs forever.

     

    I didn't like my grand am gt, It felt super heavy and took about 100 lbs of pressure on the brakes to stop fast.

     

    I didn't like the probe gt for the automatic electronic trans, that couldn't last 60,000 mi without having to be replaced, and the extemely cheap plastic interior that rattled more than my teeth in negative degree weather, the ball bearings went out at about 30,000 mi, and like all fords rust began quickly. The good thing about it was that it felt real light and was really good in the snow.

     

    I can't really say anything bad about the ss s10, except on the highway it was a slug trying to pass, since the trans was was designed for all torque in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. I had about 115,000 mi on the v6 vortech and was still able to make it break loose in second with an automatic and pathfinder winter tires. That vortech motor is great never leaked anything.
  • infinia1infinia1 Member Posts: 174
    does anyone know how to adjust the deadlights up and down? i know how to adjust them left and right, but my driver side needs moved up a bit. i can't find any adjustment for up and down. i have an 02 with no other problems at 31k.
  • kirby18kirby18 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 chevy prizm Lsi and am having a problem when its cold out side of the automatick shifter not shifting out of park. have to stick a screw drive in the over ride button under the plastick cover next to the shifter. Does anyone know how to repair this problem is there a sensor or something?
  • bpkelleybpkelley Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I live in Boston, MA and I've owned a 1999 Prizm since March of 2004. I bought the car with 96,000 miles on it and today, broke 113,000 miles (I am a college student attending a University where 6 months I am in class and 6 months I work a full time job in my career field, so I drive a lot for work).

    Funny I came across this post today: my driver's side door has been doing the same thing, and I was late to work this morning because I could not enter or exit my car. When it's cold, it refuses to latch or open. If the door is locked, turning the key to unlock it does no good either- it appears as if the key will break before the door opens!

    Has anyone else heard of this problem, or a resolution? There has to be a better way to get around this than climbing in the car through the passenger side.
  • marie123marie123 Member Posts: 1
    My 87 Buick is ready for graveyard.
    Need basic, economical, reliable car fast. Considering Prism.
    Have seen several at 90-100+ miles in Texas. Most $4,000-$5,000.

    How many miles can Prisms get without causing too many engine and other problems?
    Can't afford many repairs.

    Seriously considering one 2000 Prism LSI (dealership) has 88,500 miles for $4,350 with some noises underneath and a couple of dents.
    Another, Prism LSI at dealership (1998) has 101,000 miles, 5 speed manual, peeling paint, leak in trunk for $3,500.

    Open to other makes as well. Is this car better concerning reliability than an older Buick Century or Regal ?
  • fotorapidfotorapid Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Geo Prism (base model).
    The Check Engine Light is on and I want to know whether I need a Code Scanner to get the code since I know 95 Toyota does not need a scanner. A scanner is only required for model after 1996.
    Anyone has any idea?
    Thanks.
  • dan_lewisdan_lewis Member Posts: 2
    Hi Everyone esp. kirby18!
    Having the same problem here. I started having this problem yesterday when I discovered that the battery was dead - hopefully due to build-up around the terminals because I replaced the alternator, starter and battery just last year! At this point I am charging the battery and will try the over ride you mentioned if the shifting out of park problem still exists when I get the car started again.

    Do you have to take anything apart to get to the over ride button or is it accessable as is? Thanks!
  • twirl2twirl2 Member Posts: 1
    Did you get an answer for this? My 95 prizm's swerving side to side in the back when i hit little bumps - I was told it was the struts, but one set of new struts later, no improvement. Any advice would be really helpful!
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    If you have a strange crunching or squeaking noise coming from the front end under acceleration, check the exhaust pipe connections. My 94 prizm recently developed an awful noise which sounded like a noise that a rusted steel door hinges would make when slowly dragged open. It sounded like something was about to snap in half or collapse. It would happen only under acceleration, and it was very disturbing and unpleasant. I initially suspected a bad motor mount or transmission, but it turned out to be just a loose bolt on the exhaust. Maybe it allowed the pipes to come partially apart and make that awful noise. It did not sound like an exhaust problem at all but it was.
  • onionknightonionknight Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I just bought my 97 prizm...and the instrument panel light went out...it's not the fuse...it doesn't affect the warning gages just the lighting on the speedometer, odometer, gas gage, temp and heater lights. It dimmed and brightened (like an alternator thing) but it was isolated to the pane. Has anyone had this problem? Lamp or Wiring? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    A Starving Student
  • pita52pita52 Member Posts: 1
    2001 Chevy Prism: Car stalls when head lights, turn signals, hazards, blower motor are used and when tail light harness is unplugged. Any suggestions?
  • cccccccc Member Posts: 1
    I LIVE IN UPSTATE NY AND MY AUNT'S 99 PRIZIM HAS THE SAME PROBLEM. IT HAS BEEN TO THE DEALERSHIP A NUMBER OF TIMES FOR THE CHECK ENG. LIGHT. THEY SAY IT IS BECAUSE OF SOMETHING IN THE FUEL SYSTEM LOCATED AT THE FUEL TANK. THE VEHICLE HAS AN EXTENDED WARRENTY BUT THE DEALER WILL DO NOTHING ABOUT IT. THEY SAY IT WILL HAVE TO BE PAID FOR BY MY AUNT OUT OF HER OWN POCKET !!. THIS PROBLEM STARTED ABOUT TWO YEARS AFTER SHE BOUGHT THE CAR.
  • schmeagal51schmeagal51 Member Posts: 1
    ive just bought a 92 prism and it has a strange clicking sound as i turn. I believe that i need to replace the CV joint. My girlfriend has a 91 prism that has stopped running. The question is, can i use the cv joint from her 91 on my 92
  • mt700a1mt700a1 Member Posts: 53
    According to Advance Auto Parts, part numbers for the CV half-shafts and boots are the same for 91 and 92. So the transplant should work. I don't know if it's worth the effort though... If the 91 Prizm no longer runs, the CV joints in it may be going bad also. Considering the labor involved in the replacement and the likelihood of having to do it again soon, you might be better off using new ones from a parts store.

    You can check for yourself at http://www.advanceautoparts.com/. Click on Shop Online and follow the instructions to look up the part numbers.

    Cheers
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    The only service contract a dealership is required to honor is the one sold by the manufacturer.
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