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Saturn S-Series

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Comments

  • pitbullpitbull Member Posts: 20
    Thanks oneduckstwo!! :)
    Sorry to take so long to reply; I've had a very hectic week.
    I really appreciate the favor!

    Well, I went ahead and bought the car; $1400 as promised.
    I probably could have gotten it for a bit less, but the seller is a retired Veteran with a disability, and really needs the money (I'm also a disabled Vet).

    I gave the car a more thorough going-over just before writing the check, and I'm convinced it's never had a significant impact, and the paint is all original (looks surprisingly fresh BTW!).
    In addition to everything to everything I mentioned above, it also has all new hoses (at least everything I could find and feel) - radiator, power steering, power brakes, vacuum lines - EVERYTHING!
    Also new ignition wires, coils, and presumably spark plugs as well.
    It feels very much like it has at least new brake pads/shoes - The brakes are excellent; they stop hard with a firm pedal and minimal pedal travel.
    The air filter is clearly brand new (white as snow!).
    I also measured the tires' tread depth - 9/32's - basically brand new as the seller promised (Yokohama AVID Touring - Perfect for this car).
    It really does appear to have had a recent & complete tune-up, although the serpentine accessory belt appears to be reaching the end of it's life (that's a fairly easy fix that I can do in my parking lot).

    ** Does the 1.9 DOHC have a timing chain? Or belt? :confuse:

    I'm also planning a complete back-flush of the coolant, along with a coolant system cleaning chemical beforehand (another simple, if tedious, task).

    ** Can anyone tell me where the engine block coolant drain is? :confuse:
    I can't afford a shop manual / Chilton's etc. right now.

    I've now driven it about 150 miles, of all sorts of mixed urban & freeway (up to 85mph).
    It really runs and drives very well, although the brake pedal pulsing seems more apparent after a few hard stops - Clear the rotors need to be turned, or possibly the rotors & drums need to be replaced.
    As far as I can tell right now, it seems to be getting about 30mpg, in mixed, moderately aggressive driving.
    MUCH better than the Forester XT's 17-19!
    I'll have an accurate figure when I refill the tank again.

    ** Anyone know of a decent Saturn warehouse or some-such, with good prices?:confuse:
    When it comes to brakes I'd really prefer the best quality replacement parts I can get at a low price (I generally don't trust used brake parts).

    I'm really impressed with the engine. As stated above, it has 250,000 miles.
    It runs very, very well!
    Starts pefectly/instantly from dead cold, with no use of the throttle and minimal cranking (3-4 revolutions as far as I can tell; 1-2 revs when warm).
    Plenty of power at all RPM; Enough to spin the front tires unintentionally on a wet road with a moderate take-off; Also chirped several times accidently on drive pavement (I know, the AVID Touring's are hardly the grippiest tire...).
    I run it up close to redline (out of respect for a 250k engine, I stopped at about 5700rpm) and it is very smooth and sounds like it's happy at higher revs - No apparent strain; The higher it revs the smoother and sweeter-sounding it gets!
    (Reminds me of the engine in a Fiat X1/9 I had a few years back - It thought it was a Ferrari and would happily rev almost a thousand rpm past redline! - Except the Saturn has a lot more power!).
    While it's certainly not even close to my modified Forester XT's 250-260 or so HP, this little wagon can definitely get out of it's own way! (& achieve 30-odd mpg doing it!).

    Well, that's pretty much my update.
    It'll need the brakes dialed-in, and a complete flush and refill, as well as the coolant system cleaning/flush/refill, and the serpentine belt.
    Otherwise, just some interior cosmetics & a few missing small panels.

    All in all, I'm satisfied with the purchase and price; It's evident that a lot of money was recently put into the car in all the important places.

    Maybe I will be able to boast about 350,000 miles! (500k? ;) )

    ps - Thanks in advance for anyone's help with my new questions! :shades:
  • patrickbrpatrickbr Member Posts: 4
    We bought my wife an 02' SL1 w/17k for $6000 in March 04'(great price at time) The car has been great until recently. We took it in a bit late for the 30k service (38k) because it was over due, and because there was a slightly rough idle. After the service the car still had the rough idle and Saturn said that the Intake Man. gaskett was leaking! My wife drives like a grandma and the car never overheated. Has anyone else had this problem? When saturn informed me I was upset that a car with 38k miles needed $400 in repiars. Especialy since the warranty had just lapsed. After going back and fourth with the dealer they agreed to fix it under the same coverage the warranty offered. (They were actualy very nice about the process) I'm trying to determine if this was a fluke or if its an indication of issues to come. Our value on the car is still strong so if we plan to get rid of it now is the time to get our money out of it. My wife likes the car and it seems to be fine now. Are the high reliability ratings just media fluff, or should it continue to be a great easy driving car? What should i expect?
  • bobby263bobby263 Member Posts: 1
    The chime used to indicate that the lights were on or keys left in. Now, however, Chime operates continuously when door is open (regardless of lights or keys). So the chime doesn't provide any useful info anymore! Fuse is OK but I can't locate the chime (behind the fuse board??) Any ideas on how I should approach this problem?
  • thomasc4thomasc4 Member Posts: 1
    My '97 s-series saturn's wiper fluid won't spray. I checked the sprayers and they don't seem blocked. it also looks like the fluid housing is leaking. Related issues? What should i look for?
  • triogemtriogem Member Posts: 32
    I should read this before. 180's part and 100 labor for my 98 SW2
  • michelstmichelst Member Posts: 1
    I have a saturn SW2 1997 (twin cam) when the outside temp is bellow 0 deg celsius my tachometer is nor working at all and when the engine is heating up it's start working again but sometimes it's just show a low RPM and is stuck there. is it the computer, I checked the plugs on the distributor and they are fine. what is it ? :lemon:
  • volfangaryvolfangary Member Posts: 105
    I had this problem on a previous car and it was the needle (pointer) had come loose from the pin it is connected to. Not an easy fix and great chance of damaging needle. I say if you can just put up with it to do nothing at all.
  • randilynnrandilynn Member Posts: 2
    Hi Saturn owners. My husband and I have a Saturn SL1 from 1997 and we have started our own business. For Christmas, I want to surprise him with a business sticker for his front exterior doors and I don't know the measurements. Can someone tell me the measurements of the front doors so that I can get the right size sticker for his car?

    Thank you,
    Randi
  • randilynnrandilynn Member Posts: 2
    DOES ANYONE KNOW THE FRONT DOOR MEASUREMENTS FOR THE 1997 SATURN SL1?
  • triogemtriogem Member Posts: 32
    I cannot find it. Thanks
  • supersaturn02supersaturn02 Member Posts: 1
    im wanting to turbo my sc2 and have already got a used turbo off of a friend that just wrecked his 92 dodge daytona. i found an intercooler off of a 92 toyota supra. and can't afford not to put it on too. im trying to figure out where and what needs to be done im firmiluar with turbos i have replaced the turbo on my 99 eclipse with no problem but it was just a bolt on thing. i have been told that i won't have to worry about the fuel part of it. my fuel injectors should be good up to 15 lbs. the only thing that i have done to the engine so far is intake and full exhaust minus replacing the stock manifold. i was also told that the dohc will be able to handle about 9-13 psi without any mods to the valve train or pistons.
    any and all help would be appreciated.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You might also want to check out our Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification board.
  • michaelrrr1michaelrrr1 Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 98 Saturn SL1 with 99k, clean inside and out. after 1 month I smell coolent inside the car with no leaks showing inside the engine compartment or outside the car. Any suggestions? All fluids are level. Is this a sign of a small leak? Also, if so, where the heck could it be? and why does'nt it show?
  • thorssonthorsson Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Saturn, DOHC, 5 speed with 125k miles. The vehicle overheated near the end of a 1,000 mile trip. Found a water leak from the water pump---Replaced It! Great Fun!!! Still...the vehicle overheats...Replaced engine thermostat.
    Still...the vehicle overheats.
    Marked and observed the radiator cooling fan function (or not) in a controlled "overheating" condition. THE FAN NEVER CAME ON.
    Then...I replaced the coolant fan swith/sensor on the side of the engine block under the plug wires. Still....the vehicle overheats. ONLY THIS TIME...the temp gauge indicator on the dash shows no active registration of the thermal state of the engine...zip...still...no cooling fan ON and the vehicle overheats.

    Help....Help...Help!

    signed:
    an "overheated" Saturn owner
  • oneduckstwooneduckstwo Member Posts: 34
    after my dismal and very mediocre experience of driving my new "1 previous owner 80k mi." 97 SC-2 i suppose it shouldn't surprise me that this board seems to be the online equivalent...but seriously, this forum should just be deleted if there's no one here to help with ANYONE's questions (at least not anymore.) i know, i know, why aren't I helping...quite simply, i've never even owned an american car and my Haynes manual is still on order. i hate to say it but after riding in my dad's little 98 accord coupe (that's 1 year difference) and even my old 97 civic, it hardly surprises me that GM is doing so poorly. yes, i'm whining but it's not like i'm getting in the way of some answers for all these questions being posted...
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    We're not going to delete this discussion. :)

    You might have a look at our Maintenance & Repair board - there may be a discussion there which will help you. I hope so and do keep us posted here. That will help others.
  • dpollydpolly Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 99 SC 2 and it just started making a loud noise when she puts it in reverse and I haven't been able to find out what it could be. if it was rear wheel drive I would suspect bad u-joints, but have no idea on front wheel drive... could cv joints cause it? any help would be appreciated..
  • saturnscsaturnsc Member Posts: 1
    if it's a manual, it could be because she didn't fully engage reverse. cv joints would be the problem only if they made a clicking noise when she was turning. i would think the problem to be brakes or bearings.
  • rivotsrivots Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 sc2 three door coupe. I bought it off a friend a year ago. I drove this car quite a bit before i bought it and loved it. 40 miles/gal and fun to drive Since I have owned it the air conditioner, key assem, sun roof broke and it has started eating passenger side wheel bearings to the tune of one a month or so. I have had new bearings and used hubs put in. My next step is a new hub also although I can't beleive that three hubs had something wrong with them Have a good mechanic and i watched him put the last set in. Does things right so i am not concerned with him, i.e. pressing on the bearing and not the race. Any suggestions? Saturn dealer has no info, mechanic is at a loss as am I.
  • cechellecechelle Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: Hey, i have a 01 SL2 and i have had for two years now, wondeful car no complaints until now. My rear end of my car is making tons of noise, like creaking sound, its loud to, can't really ignore this sound. It isn't a banging but its more noticable in stop start situations. I was wondering if anyone has had this problem and if they have any ideas on what i can do to fix it.
  • boatman2boatman2 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 96 SL with a cracked head. I heard there was an extended warranty or TSB associated with this. Anyone have any info on:

    99-P-01 JAN 05
    Campaign Cylinder Head Cracking/Warranty Extension
  • purplefrogs420purplefrogs420 Member Posts: 1
    :sick: i am having trouble with my Saturn SL-1 1995 model.
    It stalls at intersections or when you have to slow down to turn actually when it drops down under 1000 rpm's.The service engine soon light comes on right before the car starts to act up..we have had it put on a computer check and it said the EGR valve but we would like to know if there could be something else that could be giving us problems...the car also revs up to almost 5000 RPM' on it own sometimes. :(
  • oreouckyoreoucky Member Posts: 1
    Ok i have a 2002 sl1 with 28000 miles on it and the other day out of know where my ac doesnt blow cold air so that could be in the need for some freon or it could be related to the second problem about two days later all of a sudden my emergency light comes on and gas gauge goes all weird and is usually at empty but sometime at other spots also my temperature gauge is only reading zero and it seems to bounce along with that the lights on the ac button and rear defroster doesnt work...so my question is is this a huge electrical problem or just a simple fuse problem...any help would be extremly greatful as i am a poor college kid and i am trying not to spend to much money...oterwise i love the car and have had other saturns in the family that are still running with over 120k
  • charlier3355charlier3355 Member Posts: 7
    Symptom: Throddle hesitation on accelerations once driven enough for the engine to reach normal engine running tempature. Afterwhich I have to pump accellerator to overcome hesitation typically at every light, or place the car in neutral while slightly reving to maintain an idle
    state. Also if I turn the car off and attempt to turn it back on it has a hard time achieving an idle state with out some major pumping of the accellerator to get it to a point where the car can be safely shifted into the automatic gear needed.

    **Now heres what I got from my local Saturn dealer**

    Today I picked up my 1992 LKO 1.9LL4 Saturn SL1 Sedan from my local Saturn dealer and was told it seems my problem is the Fuel Presure Regulator. Great to know ... now for the bad part they (Saturn) no longer carry the part and know of no third party mfg. that makes it.

    So here's what I'm thinking: One I posted this message to see if anyone has any recommendations and secondly I figured possibly start looking at auto salvage places.

    Well thats my delema... Any better ideas are welcomed...

    Oh, and can some one describe where the Fuel Presure Regulator is located on this car... I just want to be sure of what I am looking for when I start my Salvage hunting...

    Thank you much folks...

    Pat thanks for the heads up for the need to repost this message...

    -Charlie
  • nsdemitnsdemit Member Posts: 1
    my roomates chrysler did something very similar. it checked all the fuses (there may be two or three different fuse boxes), but found that it was a bad connection at the battery terminal. it got corroded with a green oxidized coating. the green stuff doesn't conduct electricity.

    hope that helps.
  • lmeridethlmerideth Member Posts: 1
    I own a 99 Saturn SC2 and I LOVE it! Any ways, about a month ago I was driving when I heard this noise that only lasted a few seconds and stopped. It happened a few times after that, so I thought it was the brakes, (thats what it reminds me of). So I took my car to the shop and they laughed and said "ma'am, your brakes are brand new all around." I described the noise and they wrote it off telling me that sometimes brake dust causes cars to do that and not to worry. Well, I didn't hear that noise again until a few days ago when it was really warm out. It was loud and continuous and squealed louder when I applied the brakes. The next day it was cool outside and it didn't make a sound! I am soooo confused! has anyone experienced this before?? What is it??
  • firpofamilyfirpofamily Member Posts: 5
    Ok here is the thing.....My service engine light came on. Got the oil changed, it went off. Then it came back on and did not go off. This is when all the problems started. First it started jerking while we were driving. Thought it need injector cleaner. Helped a little. Then the jerking go worse. Thought the oil was low. It was, but only by a quart. Put that in, did not help. Jerking continued to get worse. Then the acceleration slowed down. The car did not want to accelerate. Once we got passed 40 it was fine. Still a little jerky but fine. Now, I can not accelerate past 25mph, it dies unless I keep my foot on the gas. The gas mileage is beyond horrible and I can barley go in reverse. The exhaust makes a muffle sound and it smells like fuel when the car is running. Oh to top it all of, this has all happened within a 2 week period. Oh yeah, we took it to get a diagnostic test run, they said egr valve or oxegyn sensor. Cleaned the egr valve...NO HELP. Please can someone help me. We are financially strapped right now, so we can not afford to take it to a "lovely" saturn dealership and be dicked around. If we just knew what we wrong we could fix it our self. Or our friend could fix it.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi - welcome. While you are waiting to hear from some Saturn folks here, you might also want to post this in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion. There are some gearheads hanging out there who may have suggestions.

    Good luck - hope we can help.
  • dolfdolf Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A NOISE COMING FROM THE FRONTEND LIKE I HAVE HEAVY DUTY WINTER TIRES ON. (AT ALL SPEEDS) CV OR WHEEL BEARING?I JUST HAD THE ENGINE REPLACED 3 WEEKS AGO, TURNED THE RADIO OFF THE OTHER DAY AND NOTICED THE NOISE.
  • charlier3355charlier3355 Member Posts: 7
    My 1992 1.9 Saturn SL1 (throttle body version) is encountering acceleration hesitation problems. It happens every time when I step on the accelerator to gain
    High speed it start to accelerate in a jerking fashion so I have to pump the gas as I encounter this to over come the jerking. Once underway at high speeds it does not happen but if I come to a full stop it will reoccur when I take off again.

    I’ve changed the following items: ERG valve, oxygen sensor, and FPR.

    But the problem continues… Any recommendation will come in handy.

    -Charlie
  • luvmysaturnluvmysaturn Member Posts: 6
    I have a 96 Saturn SL2 with 98,000 miles on it (standard transmission) When I try to accelerate from stop or in any gear, it jerks. The Service Engine light starts flashing. Also when I am going up a hill, I lose speed and have to downshift to get any umpf to my car. I lose up to 20 miles an hour in speed when going uphill on a highway. I am a single mom who is tired of every mechanic trying to sell me more than what I actually need to fix on my car. My brother is trying to educate me on how to change spark clubs and general maintenance type things to help fray expenses.
  • luvmysaturnluvmysaturn Member Posts: 6
    I had a similar problem recently with my 96 Saturn. My brother helped me fix this. We had to order a shifting cable bushing from E-bay. Did a search. I do not have the guy's E-bay address anymore, but he makes several of these bushings using Neoprine. We took the boot off the gear shift and attached the bushing on the side that it was broken. The part may have cost us $20 max. And I saved 185 dollars. Saturn sells their cars cheaply but man are they proud of their parts! Hope this helps.....luvmysaturn
  • bambiebambie Member Posts: 12
    I have the same problem ,1997 SC1.Turn the key too on position ,but don,t start! Watch fuel gauge needle too jump from emty too whatever amout of fuel is in your tank, then try too start.I said all that too say this. when you turn your key too start,wait for your fuel pump too start. You can here it,then it will stop the humming noise(about 3-5 seconds).
  • bambiebambie Member Posts: 12
    My 1997 SC1 engine vibrates. I think it might be the knock sensor. Does anyone have ideas or experience?
  • tdpaul7tdpaul7 Member Posts: 5
    Did you get an answer to this? I have a 91, same engine, almost same problem. After mine warms up to normal operating temperature the car will buck at low speeds or even just trying to start out from a stop. It idles fine but it's quickly gotten worse (just over a week). Now it will die and not start back up until after cooling down a bit. The engine temp is normal (not even half way) when this is happening.
  • luvmysaturnluvmysaturn Member Posts: 6
    I have not gotten an answer to my post. My car does the same as Charlier3355. Please see my post. I am starting at changing the spark plugs and moving on from there. I am being told that it might be the timing belt needs to be replaced or it might be the vacuum advance. My brother has suggested we start simple and move on from there. Any other suggestions? engine temp same (not even halfway). It bucks from start to fifth gear when accelerating. I have a mechanic who thinks my clutch needs to be repaired. The thing is, it happens when I accelerate. It sometimes dies, but I can start it up immediately... for now. I have noticed that when the car isn't warmed up, it doesn't buck until it has warmed up.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi - this particular discussion isn't a very busy one so that's probably why you haven't heard anything yet.

    Why don't you hop over to our Transmission Traumas? discussion and ask there.

    Only thing is you need to tell the whole story instead of asking people to look at previous posts so that all of the information is in one place.

    Meanwhile maybe someone will chime in here.

    Good luck!
  • charlier3355charlier3355 Member Posts: 7
    Hi tdpaul7,

    Sorry for my delayed response I’ve been off the computer working on my Bike…
    Anyway, sorry to say I’m glad someone else is encountering this darn problem maybe we can figure it out together for our benefit. It has been eating me up too… I think your brother has the right idea start with the small stuff but I don’t think the plugs are going to have any effect… You see I already did the same and the problem continued. Here’s a list of the things I did so far on my car…

    I changed the plugs, air filter, PVC valve, fuel filter and used Premium gas with top grade injector cleaners for a month and the problem continued.
    I then took the car to Saturn (I had no check engine light lit) explained the problem and after performing a diagnostics test they said the fuel pump was working fine and the item they recommended to replace the Diaphragm in the Fuel Pressure Regulator a part by the way they no longer stock is item for my 92 SL1 so I had to order one through a local Strauss Discount Auto and then take the car and the part back to them which they gladly installed at no charge and the tech at Saturn commented on the Throttle body looking a bit beat after the installation.
    While driving home I encountered the same problem so sorry to say this still didn’t remedy the problem.

    Anyway here’s where I am at now after doing some research on the web and some mechanic documentation I believe this problem to be a Fuel system problem not timing chain related. The problem could frankly be the Throttle Body. Now it looks like the Throttle Body is made up of 2 sections the top half or (fuel meter body) and it contains the Fuel injector and the Fuel Pressure Regulator. The bottom Piece or the Throttle body, and contains the throttle valve, IAC valve, TPS and the vacuum manifold or tubes which supply manifold vacuum to various engine control solenoids.

    Since I know my fuel pump and FPR to be working I would say I need to address replacing the Fuel injector for the top piece or find out if replacing the whole bottom piece (throttle body) will it contain with the new replacement a new throttle valve, IAC valve, TPS if yes then I would think replacing the bottom half to be the most focused on resolving the problem. If I get a chance tomorrow I’ll be calling Saturn to ask for a price on the replacement and installation of the throttle body. Heck let’s see if they even stock the part otherwise I’ll have to order it from somewhere else.
    I’ll keep you all posted … Paul run my thoughts on the possible solution and let me know what he thinks. If you try something else and find the problem let us all know.

    Hope some of this helps... Keep me posted... I'll do the same...
    -Charlie
  • charlier3355charlier3355 Member Posts: 7
    Hmm,

    I thought the idea was to post a message as it relates to the problem and field it out in that created forum... Instead of taking a Fuel related acceleration problem discussions to a Transmission Forum???

    -Charlie
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Heh, well I never claimed to be a gearhead! :blush:

    But I was going on the little information that was presented in the one post and particularly the fact that the person was concerned that he/she had not gotten a reply. My intent was to get the person somewhere where people know more about those things than I do. And in fact to a place where more folks hang than here.

    Thanks for your reply. Hope it helps both members.
  • tdpaul7tdpaul7 Member Posts: 5
    Charlie,

    Thanks for the response. I had a code 34 MAP sensor error. I don't see how that was causing my problem though. I've changed the following and may have a fix. O2 sensor (no fix), MAP sensor seems to have fixed it (crazy) but it's cold here this morning and I want to test it some more. My SL1 has gotten to the point that when it warms to operating temperature it dies and will not start again until it cools. It's not running hot. I put the MAP sensor in this morning let it warm up at idle for about 45 minutes and then went and drove it --- no problems. Yesterday, after the O2 sensor I did the same and it died within 5 minutes of driving. But yesterday is was warm (upper 70's) and today it's in the 40's and rainy. Anyway, I hope the MAP sensor takes care of it but if not the research I've been doing also may point to a crankshaft position sensor. When it stops running it doesn't seem to even try to start (fire) although I haven't checked to see if there is spark yet. One thing at a time.
  • luvmysaturnluvmysaturn Member Posts: 6
    Thanks Charlie for the detailed message. Although I am "just a female", and do not understand all the technical terms in your email, your response is thorough enough for me to share with my brother. When we spoke last night, he still thinks it is the Vacuum Advance. I will share this with him and let you know what we find out. Right now we have a family member who is living out his last days (age 37) with his wife, and 2 children. He has liver cancer and we were told yesterday, it may be days if not hours before he dies. So we may not get to this right away. Appreciate your response......Nancy
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Oh, I'm so sorry. Best wishes.
  • charlier3355charlier3355 Member Posts: 7
    Hey Pat,

    It's all good... :)

    When I commented I didn't realize you were the Host of this forum...You are right the idea is to help folks get to an area if needed that can generate them some feedback about their car problem.

    Thanks and keep up the great work...

    -Charlie
  • gstroudgstroud Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 SL2 101512K/60,000 miles and it is currently using oil between the dipstick lines (L and F) in about 3000 miles This seems high to me.
    Question(S):
    1)is this normal
    2)Any user with suggestions
    3)any suggestions as to synthetic vs standard oil
    4)what weight of oil for temperate summer conditions?
  • charlier3355charlier3355 Member Posts: 7
    Latest on my acceleration problem….

    Since my last posting I disassembled the Throttle body and cleaned it out with carburetor cleaner. After which I reassembled and re-installed the throttle body. The car seemed to accelerate fine for a day but started up again the next day. At this point I don’t really know if the cleaning really had an impact because my acceleration problem has been an intermittent problem to begin with so it may have seemed like it worked but in fact it may just have been masked. I really don’t think any of the throttle body sensors are defective because I don’t get a check engine light. So now I’m thinking timing belt after all this car does have 144K and I don’t know if it has ever been changed.

    Does anyone know if a bad time belt would result in poor starting acceleration with infrequent throttle hesitations?
    Oh, and how much does a timing belt change on a Saturn SL1 typically go for???

    -Charlie
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    Saturn SLs have timing chains, not belts, and the chains don't need to be replaced.
  • iahawkeyemniahawkeyemn Member Posts: 3
    I just recently purchased purchased a 98 SL2 with 95K miles. This past weekend I noticed a small amount of leaking around the sunroof. It has been raining a lot here lately in Minnesota. Any experience with this kind of problem? Is there a caulk I can buy to help improve the seal of the sunroof? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • ellis5ellis5 Member Posts: 2
    Hey Pat How do I post a new message? MY question is this. My daughter is driving a 1992 Saturn coupe two door. Almost everyday now on the way to school the car is stalling out when she turns left. Any idea why this could be happening? Thanks
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Regarding posting a new message, I assume you mean as opposed to a "reply" to someone else? All you need to do is scroll to the bottom of the page and use the post box that you'll see there (assuming you are logged in).
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