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Comments
Also, once a problem is fixed and not cleared by an external "reader" system, it may take serveral on/off driving cycles for the code/light to clear.
I think its the high pressure AC sensor.
When its not working, try taping/hitting the switch (ask some mechanic to show you where it is, should be on the AC high pressure line near the compressor). If the compressor comes on, then it the switch.
The switch is about $70 from dealer and should not be that hard to install. Should not have to drain the freon to change switch.
This switch is a problem with many GM cars.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You have a couple of options you can try:
1) You can take the air bag unit off of the steering when and disable one of the horn switches. Test to see which one is causing the problems with a volt meter. To take the air bag unit off you'll have to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then pull the airbag fuses out of the fuse panel below the driver's side dash. Pull the kick panel off of the drivers side and disconnect the yellow connector (to completely disable the airbag). Use a torx bix to loosen the screws on the back side of the steering wheel. This will release the air bag unit. Once you pull this off, you'll see another yellow connector and and a black connector for you radio controls. There will also be a spring type clip that goes into one of the holes and a longer plastic tube with a spring attached that goes into another hole. If you put a volt meter on these two connections you can test the switches. Once you've found the switch that has a problem just leave that one disconnected. There are two small black plugs. Usually, one of the switches is more sensitive than the other and you can just disable that switch. The horn will only work when you push the steering wheel in the specific location of the switch you did not disable.
2) You can buy a new airbag unit which will obviously have a new horn switch that should not have problems for the next 5 years.
Fuel pressure from the 18 year old fuel pump?
Connection problem at the electronic spark control under the coils?
Other connection?
Crankshaft position sensor?
Camshaft position sensor? (I think this one gives code)
This car really needs to be hooked up to a Tech II or better device while being started and running to see record what happens when it acts up. It sounds like it's doing it regularly and somewhat predictably.
Are there any codes when read by a code reader at Advance Auto or Autozone.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks for any help
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Fred
Where are you? Is it super humid where you are? Very hot when this is occuring?
Is this true after driving at 40+ mph on open road for 5-10 minutes?
You might have an actuator not moving a vane inside the HVAC box all the way to cool and some air is going through the heater core?
BUT the most likely would be that the freon isn't correctly charged. Was it done by a professional with gauges on the high and low sides of the system? Or was it charged by someone like me with a can of R134a from Walmart with a do-it-yourself gauge on the low side only and brought up to pressure with that backyard system?
However there have been more than minimum reports of actuators not working correctly. Most common is they quit and dont' move anything at all.
Curious, does it go full hot when you turn the temp to full hot? Try putting it on 90 for a while if you have the automatic system and then bringing it down to the cool settings at 60.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I have the automatic air with digital readout. The passenger side is also not cold enough.
I'm in Las Vegas,NV where it is very hot and dry.
I had it recharded at PepBoys.
I set the temp to 90 and it's work fine; it gets really hot but from 75 to 60 air blows the same. What do u think?
Now i'm having some trouble with it and not sure what it is. Driving down the highway today at 65mph. Drives fine, until we start to slow down. I notice its missing. Then we get to a stop its VERY noticeable.
As I push the accelerator it really starts to miss/sputter. I turn the car off in the parking lot and we let it sit for a good 2 hours. Come back and it starts fine, but immediately starts to sputter/miss again. All the way back home on the highway it lacks power and starts to sputter/miss.
Now when I turn it on it really doesn't want to run smooth. I did notice the other day that the fuel gauge was wrong (when it gets below 1/2 a tank it just goes all over, registers as full, etc.)
Someone suggested it was a fuel pump. If it is, how is that replaced on this car? This person said they couldn't remember if it was a tank removal job or if this years car had an access panel through the trunk.
Thanks.
#2. The fuel gauge contacts that move when the float goes up and down probably are worn. There is a replacement repair for the mechanically inclined on the internet using some repair parts from a past gauge assembly for another car but related fuel sender. The parts wear.
#3. I has low mileage for a fuel pump problem unless it was driven a lot with fuel level below a quarter tank so it didn't cool the pump.
#4. Most likely it's a clogged EGR valve. It can be removed for cleaning fairly easily.
#5. You can disconnect the EGR valve connector and drive it with that connected to see if it quits doing it. That is temporary only.
#6. You can try tapping the EGR valve with a screwdriver handle to see if vibration helps the pintel seat closed when it should be such as at idle.
You might be due for spark plugs (use AC plugs per the book, don't buy the alternates) and new wires (use OEM AC or Belden brands, e.g.). You might have a wire not up to par after 8 years.
But I really feel you have an EGR that's got scudda crud in it. I would doubt you need a new one or you'd have a check engine light on.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I'm really confused because I have no CLUE what all these parts are and the respective costs associated with it. Should I have replaced everything?
P.S. I do need to replace the guage issue at some point, so that information you posted is handy.
Very uncomfortable driving without a horn in rush hour traffic. Doesn't anyone (besides me) actually turn their head to check the blind spot anymore?
So Horns is #2. The relays have a flat spring prong that you raise using a steak knife, and then the relay will slide out toward you. The prong snaps over a hook when you push the relay back in.
The relays there are several of the same part number. So you can switch the AC compressor and horn relay to see if that makes yours work.
Good luck. And let me know what you end up finding!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
~Greg
But you must replace the wires also. They probably wore out before the plugs. Replace with AC or Belden OEM quality wires--NAPA has AAA discount if you choose Beldne, e.g.
Most likely the wires' resistances are high because the carbon layer has deteriorated with age and use. Putting new plugs in helped but the system is still marginal. Running plugs and wires long also is said to deteriorate the coils. But change the wires first.
The coils are best checked by comparing the resistances of the high voltage side where the wires plug in. To compare the primary side, you take each coil off, insert something to make contact internally to measure the resistance. Then clean and coat the prongs that the coil sits down onto. Coat with dielectric grease. BTW, put dielectric grease on the inside of the new wires when putting them onto the spark plugs; it makes them easier to remove.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
be good, if it turned out to be a reasonably low-maintenance vehicle.
I previously had its relative, 1999 Pontiac Bonneville, which I bought
new and traded in, at the 67K miles, for a new Chevy Malibu in 2005 --
the change I've been extremely happy about.
And I wouldn't buy another Bonneville, no, thank you.
I've researched multiple user reviews for LeSabre, and have mixed
feelings, but am thinking about exploring it further.
I'd like to hear any feedback on this, but, specifically, I wonder
what is the highest mileage on a used LeSabre, which makes sense to
consider. E.g. I see a new listing for a 2002 LeSabre Limited with
97.5K miles -- how silly would it be to buy that car, with that
mileage? What maintenance is expected to be performed at 100K? How
much money I should expect to invest in the car over the next 50K
miles?
Thank you for any input.
much money I should expect to invest in the car over the next 50K
If the owner did good maintenance on it, it's had the coolant changed a couple of times, it's had at least one trans drain and filter replacement, it's had plugs and wires replaced with Delco Plugs and OEM type wires, and news brakes all around. I'd say you're lookiing at less cost than for a high line Accord or Camry.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I've noticed many messages from you with good technical information,
so your advice is much appreciated.
Let me put it differently now: if I take your list and make sure that
everything you listed have been done (from the information I have,
this car has been very well cared for) -- should I be afraid of 98K
miles? Is it much worse than, say, 50K?
From my experience with Bonneville, I want to think that 60K or 100K
don't make much difference -- most bad things happened to me before
50K; and nasty annoyances like broken external door handles ($300),
broken trunk spring ($200), water leak through the heater ($500),
broken sun roof (left it with that), engine shutoff on the road, don't
appear to be directly related to the mileage, but what do you think
about this? Would you remove a car with this kind of mileage from
your consideration, or it wouldn't bother you much?
Thanks again.
your consideration, or it wouldn't bother you much?
Nope. A neighbor up the road has bought and sold used 3800s equipped vehicles with 200K + on them running well and promising for an economical car. He does low price range cars as a hobby buying and selling; his father has always been in the used car business.
The only pattern problem on the car you mention is due to neglect, in my opinion, by not changing antifreeze every two years. If it still has DexCool in it and the reservoir tank looks clear without globs of goop from someone adding green stuff antifreeze, I'm happy. The transmission fluid I like to see changed often. You're hinting that car has had that done in some way.
Your car is past the 2000 models that seemed to have failures in the clip in the regulator (track) for the power windows. The cable that lifts the windows pulls out of the plastic carrier. Replaceable if you can take off the door panel yourself and send the regulator to someone on Ebay or the internet for repair and quick return for around $50-$90.
I'd feel better about the car you're looking at than a Honda with an automatic transmission or air conditioning problems. Things will go wrong with all cars is my motto. Regular oil, trans fluid, and coolant changes are what your leSabre needed. Sounds like it has gotten that.
You're not going to find many cars delivering 31-33 mpg in summer on interstate with AC on at 65-70 mph with 3 adults and loads of baggage; it also can carry 6 easily. It gives 22-24 around home driving in suburban township type driving here. I couldn't justify trading off my 168K 98 leSabre for a higher gas mileage car til recently. Kept the leSabre but added a Cobalt for the high schooler to drive.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
vehicle and I backed off.
Another one -- 2002 Custom, 83K miles:
* Rear suspension redone a month ago.
* The sunroof won't open -- needs a new solenoid.
I don't care about opening a sunroof, but am afraid of water leaks if
the roof is not properly closed.
Any idea about how difficult it is to fix that? More important: a
recently redone rear suspension -- is it a good or bad sign?
Thanks!
Depends on what they mean by redone. New shocks? All lesabre may have had air leveling struts on the rear. If they put on Monroe replacements it may ride a little harder in rear than before. If they put on GM shocks, it should be the same or similar.
The rear suspension might be a link that rusted through. A few people have reported those. It's a link that holds the geometry solid. I don't think it's the toe-in adjusting link. If it's in a corrosive area with lots of salt that might have happened. Look under the rear for new parts to see what was replaced. If it was replaced it's good to go.
>sunroof
Sounds like a control solenoid somewhere that the switch operates. I'd have to look that up in my 2003 Helm manual. I'll post what I find. Sunroofs are like boats: problem pits--my personal opinion. The solenoid doesn't bother me. But lots of Bonneville owners have reported broken off drains for the sunroof--it has 4. So the water leaks inside the car. Typical is the front hose by driver's left foot which is supposed to drain below the car and breaks inside the car.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Couldn't agree more!... I swore off from buying a car with a sun roof
after the one in my 1999 Bonneville stopped stopping in the "close"
position....
> But lots of Bonneville owners have reported broken off drains for
> the sunroof--it has 4. So the water leaks inside the car.
The drain paths may be blamed unfairly: as I learned painfully with my
car, the pre-2000 Bonnevilles have an insanely installed heater --
when the seal around it loosens, the water goes from the windshield
and engine compartment right into the cabin, collecting under the
carpet.
It's very hard to find the leak -- I spent hours pouring my car from a
garden hose, and hard to fix it. It's probably impossible to fix it
reliably.
> Typical is the front hose by driver's left foot which is supposed to
> drain below the car and breaks inside the car.
Precisely where the water was in my car :-)
Any ideas on usually why a very long delay with the fan coming on?
If fan, how do I get to it or is it easy?
If control module, how do I pull it out?
Thank you for your help in advance.
Try turning the key to ON. If the fan doesn't start like it should, tape the bottom of the HVAC box with the toe of your shoe. The blower motor is on the right side of the hump, but any vibration will cause it to make contact.
The blower is held in by three screws. Pull the carpet back toward the seat; moving it allows more room to wiggle the blower and motor out. The hush panel under the passenger side dash comes off first with a few screws.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
After I turned the key on and made sure the fan was set on high, no air was coming out and no sound of the blower. I tapped the blower area under the glove box near the fire wall and the fan came on!
Removed the hush panel and blower module. Either the motor was worn or internal connections bad. External connectors looked good. Inside there was some dirt (I assume from the motor cooler/heater tube port even though I change/clean the cabin filter often - can see the filter with the blower out) and maybe the brushes were a little worn, so after about 80k miles, just replaced the blower module from Autozone (~$130) with lifetime warranty. A few screws like you said and it was pretty easy - did not even have to move the carpet out of the way.
I don't know if they index interiors, but search for a part for the car and year like you want and then start calling the yards that are close enough to you to go visit.
Also try rockauto.com and gmpartsdirect.com
I don't know if they sell that kind of interior part or not.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Now the question. The subframe is shot. What are my options if any? 157m miles perfect catalog of maintenance and car runs perfect. Any idea on repair estimates?
But let me again say to all older LeSabre owners who live in the rust zones please get your subframe checked. The inspection isn't easy because the bushings hide the subframe rusted collar areas. Buick I understand later redesigned the subframe I think with the body redesign but this is a critical car failure with deadly consequences.
TIA
Bob
For most people the problem occurs after everything gets nice and warm. If it repeats the slight increases and decreases, try holding your foot on the brake pedal lightly to disengage the TCC lockup, and note if the surging feel from changes in the TCC lockup percentage is gone.
I believe there also are a few problems in the 4T60E. But they are more specific in nature or more noticeable. This is very subtle. I am concerned that you don't have a 65E because I didn't think they were used in H-bodies until 1998.
Search for RPO codes ont he internet. See if one of them is for the transmission installed. Your RPO code card is on top of the spare tire cover board inside your trunk.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
A good test would be to drop the trans pan and replace the half of the fluid that drains out with Dexron VI which I understand is primarily a synthetic based trans fluid for newer GM cars. OR put in synthetic fluid of your choice. It will take 6-7 quarts. Let the synthetic fluid with its detergency redissolve anything it will over 5-10K miles. See if it changes.
I'm concerned by your description of dropping into 3rd. If you're above 45-48 mph and it's in 4th gear and the TCC is engaged, it should just go to 4th. The TCC will engage in 3rd gear above about 35. I'm wondering if your feeling various changes of torque converter lockup and are interpreting it as gear changes. If you think you're in 3rd and the selector is in OD, move it to 3rd and see if you feel a true downshift.
If the trunk list of options has M15 that may be the 4T65E. M13 is the 4T60E, I think.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I'm looking for a car that will last me for at least 3-4 years. I'll likely put on 5-6,000 miles/year.
Thank you.