GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

kelly13 · August 2005

I have a 1995 astro with 160,000 miles. It vibrates when put into reverse from underneath driver and passanger side, sometimes worse than others, hot or cold. No tranny work done yet. When I put into reverse there is 3/8 to 1/2 inch movement on the motor mounts. It stops vibrating when put into park or drive. You guys think motor mounts or tranny? Help

cob · August 2005

I would say motor mounts are your problem. When you shift into reverse the motor is moving back against the body and sending the vibrations through the floor. When it is in drive it moves back away from the body. As long as you do not have the 4L60E trans which I believe was not used until 1996 you shouldn't have too many transmission problems.

oldfart1956 · August 2005

Folks, bear with me, I'm new here. Anyways my '95 AWD Astro has a warning light on for the anti-lock brakes. As well, the brakes are not funtioning in anti-lock mode I assume. (no little "grunting noise" from the brakes when I first start moving) I did locate a post about this problem and it said to check the ground on the ABS pump...O.K...where's the ABS pump? The last vehicle I owned had points...life was easy then! Yes..points..a 1970 GMC pickup. Many thanks in advance to all. Audie..

cbpd · August 2005

1998 GMC safari van. The drivers side power window stalls when trying to close.

Can not determine if the problem is the motor or switch or switch relay. I took off the door panel to expose the motor and found it seems to be rivited to the inner door pannel. The rivets look strange. They dont appear to be a fastener that can be unbolted. At this point it seems that I have to drill out the rivets to remove the motor to troubleshoot. Has anyone had a similair problem. I have not been able to a manual which explains the removal process.
Replies to this message:
 pf_flyer (Aug 05, 2005 11:02 am)

dcoggins · August 2005

Any advice would be appreciated. We no longer have cold air coming from the front vents of our Astro. It blows cold in the rear. As we start up, the air seems to be cool but then looses all cold and just blows out hot in front. Rear stays cold. . Could there be a blocked vent or something similar. There is condensation appearing on the ground in the rear left side. but not the front at all All blowers work.. Our car expertise is limited so please keep it simple in wording.

tkw · August 2005

I don't have rear A/C on my '98 but with the help of the forum, I have solved a mulfunction dash HVAC vent control problem. There are lots of recent discussions on this topic. Do a search on tkw, cob and 97expreeso's posts, you'll probably find the answer. There's also a post on Rear A/C that may also applicable here. Good luck with your search!

giant44s · August 2005

read message number 969... as for the relay, it should be located under the hood on the passenger side, if you look near the back where the rear of the hood will sit when closed you should see three relays, the pump relay is the one closese to the passenger side fender.

joeyags21 · August 2005

I have a 1999 gmc safari and i am at a standstill when it comes to changing the headlights, can someone please give me a hand with this

joeyags21@agnellonsons.com
thank you
joe

tmoney · August 2005

I have 3 problems with my 1999 GMC Safari. First problem is the daytime running lights works for a week or two then goes out for a month then comes back. Next problem is that 2 weeks ago the radio went out no power at all about 30 minutes after that the windows stopped working. The windows are all the way down on both sides and will not come up. I have checked the fuses and as far as I can tell none are blown.

Help and Thanks in Advance

brantley1 · August 2005

Never heard of such to that extreme. I've had minor electrical glitches like that, but I traced the problem down to a very loose battery connection. I switched to the big battery post adapters that "normal" vehicles use anyway and that solved my electrical problems.

With the running lights -- it sounds like a loose connection within the lighting harness to both the lights.

Good luck tmoney!

vsatdude · August 2005

How hard is it to change the alternator on thr 97 astro? Any tips would be helpfull.

cob · August 2005

The alternator is easy to change. It takes longer to get the doghouse off to get access to the back side of the alternator. You can replace it without taking the dog house off. Once you get the serpentine belt off I believe there was 2 or 3 bolts holding the alternator on. I changed mine 2 years ago. What I do remember is there is a large wire harness connected to it and a small single wire. I did not see the single wire from the front and when I yanked on the alternator to remove it I broke the small wire. Knowing that there are 2 harnesses on it you should be able to remove it without taking off the dog house, good luck.

cob · August 2005

I was told that there is a valve under the hood on the a/c lines that has a black cap on it. You are supposed to be able to turn it with a screw driver. I have something different on my 97 since it is an aftermarket unit from the conversion company. Anyhow this valve controls the cooling cycle between front and rear and sounds like it is stuck on the rear setting. I was told to have someone sit in the van while it is running and turn the rear air on and off while someone else taps the valve under the hood to get it unstuck. It may or may not work but it is a free fix. Let me know if it works for you.

tkw · August 2005

Assuming you have the composite Headlamps, here's the instruction:

Open the hood. Remove the sidemarker/turn signal lamp by removing two screws. Remove the corner reflector by removing the screw behind it. Remove the headlamp assembly by removing 3 screws. Replace bulb from behind. Caution: do not touch halogen bulb with bare hand.

selvanegra · August 2005

Recently I Bought an Astro 1994 AWD, CS, automatic, with only 50k miles, (may be becose it catch a small fire and was parked a couple years), the thing is that doesn´t have the emission control label and I can´t adjust the time nor the idle speed, does anybody has a van like mine and can send me an e-mail with the info on the label, I´ll aprecciate it.

rsalty · August 2005

Anything less than a 97 will not make you happy.2000 went downhill.Consumer reports states to many problems till 97.

rsalty · August 2005

I also have a 97. I dont even know what a theft-lock is .Maybe you can help me. My vehical also just goes slap dead without warning from time to time. Did repacing the altenator really fix the problem ? Hope so cause I dont know what else it could be except for 50 other things ive been afraid to tackle.

edbd1s · August 2005

So, its $450 later, my baby (1994 Chevy Astro 4.3, v-6) has gotten a new battery, sparks changed, fuel filter changed, a new electric ignition switch, and a brand new fuel pump. My mechanic even says he "fixed" the fuel pump relay (I didn't know that they could be fixed, hmm). But not fixed yet. But all the mechanics in town say not to bring it in until it has a problem. Well, that IS the problem. It only has a problem intermittently. So, of course, as soon as I get it to the mechanics, it works, but I am still getting stuck all over town. Clues: It doesn't start only sometimes. It seems to not start after stopping at several places. It rolls and rolls and won't start. It has been hot weather lately. Sometimes it starts but then suddenly dies immediately afterwards. Usually, it runs fine once it has started except for ..... Weird clue #7- The engine dies on the road when we honk the horn????
Got some ideas?

braedhead79 · August 2005

I have the same problem on my 94 it stalls then if you wait a few minutes it will go I think there is some kind of self reseting fuse in the system somewhere for the PW but I have been unable to find it maybe you may have more luck on yours

jadem · August 2005

Is there anything in the after market world that will inprove performance and gas mileage ??

viking64 · August 2005

I need to replace the outside door handle on the driver side of my 2000 Astro. I was able to remove the door pull, and the electronics panel. That is where I ran into trouble. The Chevy guys say that there are 8 plastic plugs on each side of the door. With all of them pulled out, one can then push up on the panel and remove it. I can only see one plug on each side. I can't find an exploded view of the inside of the door without downloading a Chilton or Clymer manual. Can anyone help with a drawing or more explicit instructions? Thanks

dlabarge · August 2005

I agree, the altinator is easy to change, once you get to it. There are 3 bolts, the two in the front of the altinator are obvious, but the one in the back is the stinger. It's located top left in the back and its a 10mm. (Not sure why) Its really a pain to get to, theres no room to swing a wrench...so what I did was bought a cheap 10mm and cut it in half. Worked great, just took a ton of turns. The whole process took me about 11/2 hrs, not bad seeing I was on a camping trip in the middle of the Adirondacks when it happened. Luckily, my father had a set of tools.

Good luck!

BTW. I have a '96 safari

dlabarge · August 2005

Hi, I have a 96 AWD safari. My ABS light has been on for almost two weeks. Luckily, my safari isn't my daily driver in the summer, so I've only driven it 3 or 4 times with the light on. I've done some simple tests, one being just too push hard on the brake while in park and see what I hear. It sounds and feels like the ABS is working...I can hear the brrrrr and feel it in the pedal, but they are definately not working. On my way home tonight I avoided a couple of deer on a rainy road and when I stomped on the brake, the front left tire locked up and the van swerved hard to the right. I felt like I was about to roll the van. Wheeew. I'm glad I'm here to type this message.

What are the possibilities here? Is there a computer that controls the brakes? Could it be a fuse? I read in an earlier post something about the ABS pump? Any help is always appreciated! Thanks

richie123 · August 2005

hey i got a 94 safari and last week when i was trying to back up i found out that the reverse did not work.......i dont know anything about cars but someone told me that it was the transmission. any one knows how to fix it?

coonhound · August 2005

On my 97 the door panel mounting locations have slots that slip down over the pop out mounting plugs. The plugs are the one time use type, if you pull or pry them out. I think it is neat that GM slotted the door panel mountings so that the plugs did not all require replacement. But, it is best to have two people to hold in on the panel during replacement in order to engage the panel with the plugs.

Now engagement is difficult, that is why I say buy some new plugs and you can mount them in the door panel and push them in just like most door panels mount.

Sometimes the plugs are not completely destroyed when pulled out and possibly may be re used.

bscabl · August 2005

i dont know if this has been posted before, i looked and didnt find it..
i have a 1995 astro AWD and i cant figure out how to fold down the rear bench seat.. it has a few levers [2 in front 1 in back] and i figured out how to slide it forward and back, but folding it into a 'bed' eludes me.. please help...
thanx in advance.
:confuse:

tkw · August 2005

These seats can only be folded forward to make room for luggage etc., but cannot be folded back to make it a bed per se. To fold forward, you have to pull a latch at the back of the seat near the right hinge.

bscabl · August 2005

the seat in my awd has only 1 lever in the back.. the lever slides the seat forward or back on a trac, it has 2 levers in the front, 1, [on the left, if sitting] slides the seat on the same trac, the right, does something else.. [folds the seat back ?]
i should have mentioned, mines a custom ['sherrod'] model.. limited edition, so there are differences in the interior/exterior from the standard production astro's

tkw · August 2005

Oops! Sorry I can't help you here. I haven't heard of 'sherrod' limited edition model. Having owned 2 of those vans doesn't make me an expert, I guess.

tmiddleton · September 2005

Hi, today my Safari just cut out on me while I was driving. I towed it to Pep Boys and they said that I have no fuel pressure and not enough sparks. They said I need to replace the fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, air filter and get an oil change. The total cost would be $1133. That sounds crazy to me just to get it running again. They said I needed some other things too like a tune up and transmission service. Please help. I got the car in March and have been used by dealers before on other cars.

bscabl · September 2005

not your fault, i should have rememembered that..
i emailed sherrodvans.. as they still use the folding bedtype seat in their vans [according to the pictures] however they have yet to get back to me..

tkw · September 2005

I have no experience with Pep Boys but it sounded like one of those chain stores that employs high pressure sales reps. From what you've described, I won't let them touch my van with a ten foot pole. I believe the main cause for your cut-out is either no fuel or no spark but not a combination of both. If your fuel filter is not badly plugged, which can be tested without major work, it would be a faulty fuel pump. If you turn the ignition key to the on position, you should be able to hear a hum in the fuel tank area to indicate the pump is working. Knock the side of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet will sometimes get it going temporily so that you can drive it to another garage for a 2nd opinion. But if it is the culprit, you are out for some major expenses because it is located inside the fuel tank and is packaged with other components. Search this forum on discussion re: fuel pump will give you an idea about reasonable Re & Re cost in you area. You may due for a tune-up but I don't believe it is necessary to get it going for now.

Claires · September 2005

Hi, tmiddleton,

Try asking the folks in our Maintenance & Repair Forum -- there are two discussions there -- Maintenance & Repair Costs and Fuel Systems Maintenance/Repair that might be helpful.

dragon300zx · September 2005

Ok here is the deal with this very troubling problem I am having.

Astro Van '94
180,000 miles
2WD
When I am at a speed in excess of 50mph this problem accurs.

At any speed above 50MPH when I take my foot of the gas and the vehicle begins to slow down I get a low pitched rumbling sound that sounds like it is coming from the rear of the car. It also feels as though something it's holding the vehicle back and not letting it run as smoothly as normal. Once I hit 80MPH the vibration and sound is constant when my foot is on the gas. The sound and vibration only occurs for the first 5mph of decceleration. So if I am doing 70mph and take my foot off the gas I get a low pitched rumbling sound (rumbling, grinding, mechanical type sound), a slight vibration, and it feels as though the vehicle is hesitating.

So far I have:
Changed the universal joints.
Checked the rearend and the fluid seemed good (I replaced it) and there was no metal shavings at all in the fluid, or on the magnet.
Checked the trans, fluid seemed alittle burnt, replaced the fluid and fluid filter, gasket all that good stuff.
Had the tires rebalanced.

Problem is still there and I can't figure it out. Neither can anyone I have talked to already.

Has anyone has this problem? Anyone have a clue as to what it is? Help.......

rileysdad · September 2005

94 astro barely runs if at all, refuses to start at times. reminds me of when i had to replace the fuel pump in the tank...man was that expensive! I wont do that again, which leads me to ask, can i put an electric pump in to assist the tired tank pump, somewhere in between th tank and the engine? any thoughts...thanks

cob · September 2005

I would think you could mount one just outside the front of the tank to the existing line. You should probably wire it to a toggle switch on the dash to turn it on and off and disconnect the one in the tank that is not working correctly. I am not sure if you can get the gas to run through the bad pump. I had a Holly electric pump on a 1979 Camero that was wired to a switch and it worked great. Make sure you have a fuse in line.

rileysdad · September 2005

has anyone replaced the fuel pump in the tank? what is the procedure? any special tools?

The van is not worth the money to have the dealership do it...so I must tackle it myself.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Sean

tkw · September 2005

I didn't work on mine but watched my mechanic doing it. You have to drop the gas tank. It'd be tricky if your tank is rather full and didn't have the use of a transmission jack. The fuel pump is located on the top side of the tank. Replacement seemed straight forward except you'll have to be careful when disconnecting the fuel line. It's pressurized even when it's not running.

rsj428 · September 2005

I have an 87 Astro 4.3 it has new plugs ,wires,cap,rotor.GM fuel pump and fuel filter
ign mod has been checked distributor is not to old . The Problem Idle is fine when i get on the open road the van will start to back fire and convulse and then shut down i will let it sit for up to 20 min. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it wont. Every one has an opinion but no solution... any ideas ?
The engine Sounds like its starving for gas.

this is my only vehicle and i cant buy a new one PLEASE HELP!!!!

topsea · September 2005

In another 50,000 miles I'll be ready for a new Astro. Too bad there isn't anything out there that has the volume and ability to handle a large load. My last 2 Astros have had AWD which I have come to love on nasty winter roads.

My only choice right now is the full size GM vans with Awd. That's it! The Dodge Sprinter is really ugly and isn't available in AWD. Ford's full size isn't available in AWD. I need the seats as well as the cargo area when the seats are out. I really like the dutch doors on the Astro. Too bad GM couldn't keep the Astro platform alive. Anyone with any ideas for a replacement?

lukesdad · September 2005

I recently purchased an 87 chevy astro and noticed the gas gauge doesn't always work. In fact the last 2 days it doesn't work at all. The books don't say anything about the gauge. The only thing I've been able to figure out is that the gauge is connected to the fuel tank via the sender unit. Is it something anyone has any experience with?

offroadal · September 2005

i forget the exact name of the part, but its a spring in the throttle body area. my 90 astro did the same thing for a year drove it like that. its a easy part to repair, its a spring, inside of a diaphram in the throttle body area, sorry i cant tell you more but i would almost bet thats the prob. ask the auto parts store about it, they prob will know what you mean. good luck.

alenarcik · September 2005

been there - if i had to guess at that - you have a bad carrier bearing - hopefully not a pinion - the rear diff cover has a magnet on the bottom to collect metal filings/debris - anyway for some reason my cracked and i found pieces of it in my carrier baring, the low growl will get more definitive with time meaning - louder - not an urgent matter but does not hurt to look after it in few months - thats saying that you dont drive long distances.

patk2 · September 2005

I have a white 93 astro and cannot figure out the paint number. please help.

kenbaker · September 2005

I have had exactly this problem on a '94 Safari, and it was two, or three things... 1) bad motor mount(s), bottom or driver's side mount certainly bad, 2) EGR valve faulty, clogged or sticky, 3) fan touching shroud (see motor mount(s) problem), but clutch on fan also not really up to spec any more.
Problem always worst in reverse, assume motor shifts around. Idle rough and/or vribration worst in gear, stopped, and applying the brakes firmly. Always much less in Neutral or Park, but noticeable when the brakes are applied firmly in PARK too.
Fixed EGR first, runs much better, espec. at idle. Found engine mount problem while underneath looking for Fan problems/ fixing with new fan clutch. Changing motor mounts not easy on mine, as I have the auxillary oil cooler option and the hoses/tubes mount to the motor mount bracket and most of the bolts are completely buried in the brackets and the space is mucho tight to do under-car wihtout a lift. kab

stan7 · September 2005

Just replaced the bearings in the rear end but gears are still whirling on de-acceleration. How long till it goes? Water pump making some noise. Has recent alternator, rear-end seals, engine is strong doesn't use too much oil. Tranny seems fine. Keep this car until it dies??? Own free and clear. Bought new in 2000. If rear end goes, should I go junkyard ($750) replacement???

one87zuk · September 2005

Recently, my 2000 Safari fuel gauge has started acting up. It seems to effect the entire system. I have the over head console that calculates mileage, fuel usage, etc. The fuel gauge will read 1/2 full and the console will say I have 500 miles till I run out of fuel. The next time I look. The low fuel light will be on and I still have 300 miles left.

Any ideas on where to start looking for what is going on? Do I need a new gauge? Sensor?

89astroboy · September 2005

hey hows it going. I had a very similar problem with my 89 astro so i thought i would drop you a line. My problem first was i kept blowing the gauges fuse now and then and finally all my gauges stopped one day. Turns out one of two pink wires that feed power from the gauge fuse to the gauge cluster had worn a bare spot on the insulation and was grounding out. to correct this i pulled the cluster and located the pink wires(pink on my 89 astro, as for 87 SAME???) I tracked the color of wire in a haynes manual. all i did was run a new wire down to an accesory spot on my fuse panel, and all has been good since. I hope this helps ya!!

bozie · October 2005

Hi there people; Need advice asap. Trying to replace a fan belt on this vehicle without using the air compressor. Have been told it is possible by various auto part's stores. It's my grandson's vehicle and he does not have the money to repair the air right now. Have remove all the shroud, air filter and etc. Have a clean approach. Have measured and baught a proper size belt. Have installed this belt (But) when installed and the tension adjustment is applied the belt rides and rubs against itself on the water pump, fan pulley. QUESTION: Is there any additional idler's or larger pulley's or another routing that must be used or is it not possible to do this ? Thank's Bozie

cob · October 2005

There should be two different belt routing diagrams under the hood. One to use with A/C and one if you do not have A/C.

GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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