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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    Tomorrow morning 10-5-05, I pick up from Chev. dealer a bracket that will replace the air-comp. at a price of a few cent's over $75:00 including tax. The one and only way that will allow you to route the belt so it will work properly without the compressor. This bracket has the pully included. Thank's for the help anyway. Sincerely, Bozie PS It's still gonna be quite a job.
  • rlgorerlgore Member Posts: 2
    Took a while to get to this reply, but THANKS to posters cob and tkw for their info on Astro A/C (messages 908 and 964). Suffered this problem back in mid-August, and this info saved me a bunch of time and heartache since I was about to start taking apart the dashboard!
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    For anyone contemplating removing air conditioner compressor on 95-Astro-Van in order to save the expense of replacing it for the present time as my grand-sons situation was. We were successful. Here's a step by step way to do it as near as I recall. #1-raise hood and remove hood latch-#2-remove air intake filter compartment-#3-remove shroud,top half around fan-#4-remove the one bolt that is visible on the compressor bracket.#5-Go inside the vehicle and remove everything attached to the engine cover then remove it. There is a large bolt on each side up next to the firewall with a screw-driver slot that will unscrew easy.#6- After the motor cover is removed using extensions and various size socket's remove the other assorted attachment's holding the compressor including the freon lines. OF COURSE NOW IS THE TIME TO PUT A REPLACEMENT BRACKET THERE. Dealer item-cost - around $75:00 tax incl. work's well. Same belt size. Your in the business now. NOW I NEED SOME HELP- Where is the high speed in-line FUSE located for the heater on this 95-Astro Van? Thank's, Bozie
  • jondesvinjondesvin Member Posts: 3
    Hi Folks,
    This evening I went to start my Chevy Astra van (its a 93 or 94) and I heard this relatively loud humming noise coming from what sounded under the steering wheel dash. When I depressed the brake pedal, this humming noise changes to a lower pitch momentarily and then returns to the original pitch. Also, when the brake pedal is depressed (slightly or greatly), there is a feedback/strong vibration felt through it. Today has been the first real cold day of the season (~40 degrees) so that may have something to do with it. I've never experienced this before and would appreciate any comments/suggestions from those who might know what the source of this problem is? I suspect it is something with the brakes because of the vibration felt through the brake pedal, but I could be totally off. Thanks in advance, Jon.
  • jondesvinjondesvin Member Posts: 3
    Hi Folks,
    This evening I went to start my Chevy Astra van (its a 93 or 94) and I heard this relatively loud humming noise coming from what sounded under the steering wheel dash. When I depressed the brake pedal, this humming noise changes to a lower pitch momentarily and then returns to the original pitch. Also, when the brake pedal is depressed (slightly or greatly), there is a feedback/strong vibration felt through it. Today has been the first real cold day of the season (~40 degrees) so that may have something to do with it. I've never experienced this before and would appreciate any comments/suggestions from those who might know what the source of this problem is? I suspect it is something with the brakes because of the vibration felt through the brake pedal, but I could be totally off. Thanks in advance, Jon.
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    Jon; From how you described your noise's you have a power-brake pump that is about to go down. Now people will laugh at this advice but it works. Take a broom handle, without the broom of course and being careful not to stick it in a fan,pulley's, idler and belt etc. place one end on the power break pump and your ear on the other end and listen to the noise. If it is unusually loud compared to other pump's and device's run by the fan belt, then it is most likely your problem. This is an old SHADE TREE MECHANIC problem solver from way back and I go way back with it. I'm 76 yr's young dear one. Sincerely, Bozie.
  • boziebozie Member Posts: 30
    Patk2; According to you posting date you may not need this advice but here it is anyway. Look in the area of the spare tire mounting and there may be a paint # reference. Sincerely, Bozie
  • 2001astrolt2001astrolt Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 Astro LT AWD. There is a vibration that sounds like I just drove over rumble-strips or a Texas gate on th highway. It happens right around 55 mph. Usually I notice it lasts about 2 or 3 seconds and repeats about 3 times. I notice it again when I slow past about 50 and speed back up.

    Had my mechanic check tires and wheels (rotated front to back as well) to negate an out of round or un-balanced wheel. Also had the transfer case(s) and tranny serviced - fluid and filter.


    Please help - it's driving me crazy... worrying that I am doing damage... :(

    Thanks
  • topseatopsea Member Posts: 47
    If yours has a limited slip rear end I think I can help, if not all bets are off.
  • 2001astrolt2001astrolt Member Posts: 11
    I'm not even sure about limited slip - how would I know that?

    BTW (I should warn you, this is the second time I've posted this problem here - you may have helped me already :) )
  • topseatopsea Member Posts: 47
    when I bought the van new. I guess the only other way to check is to put it on a hoist and tell by putting it in gear and trying to stop the rotation of one of the rear wheels. Then the other method is to decipher the codes on the drivers side door from GM.

    But yes, I have helped others who had like problems with Astro with limited slip. It boils down to tire wear on the rears. Those rear tires have to be very nearly the same wear on both. If one has more than the other then the limited slip tries to engage. I know because I bought new tires on mine the day I drove it off the lot when it was new. The only problem was that the tire company put a slightly different size tire on the rear. The limited slip keep trying to engage until a sharp GM mechanic noticed the wrong size tire on the rear.
    Hope this helps. Keep us posted.
  • nick95astronick95astro Member Posts: 2
    Anyone know where to get a dual exhaust system for 95 chevy astro 2wd.

    Thanks. nicholas
  • jondesvinjondesvin Member Posts: 3
    First of all I'd like to thank those that responded with suggestions to my problem. It turns out that my power steering fluid was near bone dry! I don't know why the mechanics didn't inform me of this when I took it in for the regular checkup...perhaps there is a leak. At any rate, I put some fluid in and all is working as expected :D Thanks again for the help!

    Jon
  • lukesdadlukesdad Member Posts: 5
    Thanks to everyone who replied to my last message, I was able to find the wire at fault and fix it. I have a new delema...I'm trying to improve the overall fuel economy of my 87 Chevy Astro van and was wondering if anyone knew of any companies that sell fiberglass replacement parts (in order to cut weight) or had any suggestions. Thanks again!
  • johnaecjohnaec Member Posts: 11
    I'm in the market for a small, RWD van, and it looks like Astro/Safai is it.

    I saw one message that says get a '97 or newer - is this correct? I've also seen numerous issues owners have dealt with, but this is something I'll just have to deal with.

    Anyway, since there seems to be no alternative to the Astro/Safari, what are the things I should be looking out for? I'm in CA, so I don't need/want AWD, and rust shouldn't be a problem.

    Thanks for any insights.

    John
  • scotsman93535scotsman93535 Member Posts: 40
    I own a 2000 Astro van. The left front door window has failed. The motor works OK but the window will only go up about ½ way then you hear a clicking sound. It would appear that some gears have stripped.

    It may be the regulator but I am not sure. Has anyone had any experience in this type of repair?

    Thanks
  • tkwtkw Member Posts: 29
    You're most welcome! It makes my day that the post is actually useful to others.
  • shadydaveshadydave Member Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 2001 CHEVY ASTRO VAN AWD WITH 4.3 LITER ENGINE. MY QUESTION IS ABOUT MY FUEL GAUGE, IT DON'T GIVE ME AN ACCURATE READING AT ANY TIME NO MATTER WHAT I DO! THE NEEDLE ALWAYS FLOATS, IT GOES UP THEN DOWN THEN BACK UP AGAIN YOU GET THE PICTURE. SO I NEVER KNOW HOW MUCH GAS I HAVE IN IT, THE LOW FUEL LIGHT ALWAYS COMES ON TOO. EVEN WHEN I JUST PUT GAS IN IT! SO YOU CAN SEE HOW FRUSTRATING THIS IS FOR ME, OR ANYBODY FOR THAT MATTER. SO IF ANYBODY HAS ANY ADVICE OR KNOWS WHATS GOING ON WITH THIS PROBLEM PLEASE HELP ME! THANKS
  • ginenskyginensky Member Posts: 1
    Bozie,

    I am trying unsuccessfully to get my engine cover off my 94 Safari (to check the intake valve, "check engine soon" code #32). I have the Hayes manual, but ended up with the cover still screwed on from inside the engine compartment, but I couldn't find the screw heads.

    Sorry for being dense, but are you saying I need to remove the "air intake filter compartment" and "shroud, top half around fan" before the engine cover can be unscrewed from inside the engine compartment? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Ginensky.
  • tkwtkw Member Posts: 29
    To remove engine cover on earlier models, you have to look for two hex bolts, with with flat-slot across its head, from under the hood. They are located at the top corners of the cover. They should be accessible without removing other component.
    On later models, these screws are relocated to inside the cab.
  • tom73tom73 Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone give me insight on a noise coming from the rear. Sounds like a ujoint or something, like someting is going to snap. I lookied underneath to find the shocks all good and firm and everything else. Was just curious if anyone else has experienced this? (2001 Astro AWD) Thanks!
  • tom73tom73 Member Posts: 2
    I am experiencing a loud noise from the rear everyonce inwhile as of lately.
    Sounds like a ujoint or something. I have looked underneath and do not see anything loose. Was just curious if this was a common problem other than that the 01 Astro has been a good ride.... thnks!!!!!!
  • 74transam74transam Member Posts: 3
    My 96 GMC Safari has recently developed a bad shake or vibration problem while idling in gear, with or without the A/C on. Of course, it is worse with the A/C on. Its only been about 10,000 miles since a tune up, so I don't think another is needed. If I raise the idle slightly by pressing on the gas peddle, the vibration goes away. I went ahead and put new plugs in even though the slightly used platinums looked great. No improvement. Soon after we brought this vehicle home, I noticed that the harmonic balancer wobbled, more than I've ever seen on a vehicle. I mentioned this to the dealership service rep. once and he told me this wasn't unusual and nothing was done. I thought that to be strange, but accepted his comment. Could the problem be that balancer has worsened over the years and is causing the problem? I'd appreciate any other ideas to look into. We'd like to keep the vehicle another year, if possible.
    Thanks
  • lukesdadlukesdad Member Posts: 5
    I recently had a similar problem with my 89. It turned out after replacing everything I thought it might be, it was actually a problem with the tensioning pulley. I'm not sure if the 96 has a tensioning pulley or not, but I would suggest looking at the main serpentine belt while the engine is running to see if it's slipping, and listen to see if it's "chirping" at all. I replaced the tensioner on mine and the problem disappeared, not after I spent $250 on everything else I could think of. Hope this helps!!!
  • thefiddler1thefiddler1 Member Posts: 1
    I've lost the high speed blower speed in my '94 Astro. I replaced the switch inside which did not fix the problem... I've replaced the relay on the outboard side and it still did not fix the problem. I found that the blower motor was under warranty as I had replaced it in 1999. I still do not have the High Speed although all other speeds improved because the motor was seizing up. I cannot find the high speed inline fuse!
  • iahawkeyemniahawkeyemn Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem in my 00 Astro. All that was required was to replace a small vacuum hose (maybe 2 or 3 inches long) leading to the blower assembly.
  • temekutemeku Member Posts: 1
    Just fixed a similar problem with my 74 Astro. Ended up being two bad engine mount bolts. Vibration is history.
  • clewis1clewis1 Member Posts: 6
    I love my 95 Astro van, but this has been an ongoing problem for a few years now with no mechanic (including Chevy Dealership mechanics), being able to figure out the problem.

    The problem is, when idealing on cold starts, the engine will idle up and down a few times like it is going to stall out; the exhaust stinks (burning rich) even when the engine is hot; my almost two year old tail pipe is rotting out at the end, I get lousy gas mileage, and it won't pass the curb emission test because it is producing too many carbons.

    Now, over the pass two years a lot of stuff has been put into the van to rectify the problem including, tune-up, new cat converter, fuel injectors removed and cleaned and a bunch of other crap. There are still no codes showing for diagnostic. Somebody suggested to us the air-intake valve? I really don't know anymore.

    I really need help or a tow truck, whichever comes first. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Cat
  • 74transam74transam Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the idea. I checked the motor mount bolts today and they look good. No noticeable movement when shifting from P to Drive, etc.

    Interestingly, the motor ideals fairly well when it is cold and becomes shaky once warm. Again, only in Drive when the idle speed is low as when stopped at a stop light.

    Any other ideas are most welcome!
  • 74transam74transam Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the idea. I inspected the tensioning pulley and it looked to be free from any binding. I removed the belt and the pulley turned freely. Its possible that the reaction could be different when the engine is warmed up, but when cold or warm, it looks like this is not my problem.

    Interestingly, my shake problem is not noticeable when the engine is cold. When warmed up, in Drive and with the idle low as when stopped at a stop light is when the shake is noticeable. I can raise the rpm slightly and it settles down nicely. My son suggests I simply raise the idle. Maybe he's right. I'll check the rpm and see if it needs to be raised. Hard for me to believe as I've not touched the idle setting on a car since the 1970's.

    Any other suggestions are much appreciated!
  • billb4billb4 Member Posts: 3
    After driving for about 10 mins in my neighborhood my van quit running. It seemed like it ran out of gas. I got out of car and could smell raw gas.I have checked all fuses/relays I could find ( under the dash and under the hood).What else should I check.Will a $79.00 diagnostic code reader be of any help?
    Thanks for your help
    BillB4 :confuse:
  • disastrodisastro Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 chevy astro van. It was having problems starting one day to the next sometimes it would and even run for days then stop. My hubby and the niehbor figured out that the fuel pump wasn't working u couldn't hear it come on and no fuel pressure from gage that shoots out gasoline above the fuel intake and outgoing fuel. well we replaced the fuel pump it works we are now getting pressure yeah nope!! it won't start so we replace fuel filter and again it won't start. HElp i can't afford to get computer diognostic test and its so hard to work on these vans anything you try to do something is in the way. Can someone help us figure out WHAT NOW???? any help or suggestions would be appriciated. :cry:
  • paltalkpaltalk Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 2002. Did you find the solution yet?
  • jiggs1jiggs1 Member Posts: 5
    I have been trying to find out if GM put limited slip rear ends in any of the astro's or if any thing will interchange with the factory original. I can not seem to find any one that knows. I have not ask a dealer as yet, that is my next step from here. thanks.
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    The Astro was available from the factory with an optional locking rear differential. I believe it is an auto locker that locks when it detects one wheel losing traction. The manufacturing code was G80 if you find one in a junk yard check the build sheet stickers for this code. It was not standard equipment on any option package so there may not be alot of them on the road.
  • marlin39marlin39 Member Posts: 1
    1989 Astro Van, How does it come out of that compartment? Frt or below? Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • bellymungobellymungo Member Posts: 1
    Hi ya chaps, I have purchased a Safari (1994) here in the UK. Recently I had the misfortune to break down, no fuel or noise from the pump, you guessed lots of wow and flutter and a tow back. I had found the problem the next day. The fusible link behind the battery has a connector to the fuse board on the bulk head, this had melted and caused an electrical failure to the pump and other circuits, worth checking before expensive diagnosis are enetred into. Oh yeah does any-one know where I can obtain some dust/grease caps for the steering joints from? :confuse:
  • emo3emo3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Astro AWD that, when starting cold, will (after a few miles of city traffic) get hotter and hotter until the temp. guage is at max. During this time, I'll have no heat in the van. After I pick up speed and, especially get on the freeway, the temp. guage will go down to normal and heat in the van will be restored. It will stay that way for the rest of the drive. Is this a thermostat issue? Any thoughts?
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    Sounds like a sticky thermostat. I would try replacing that first. It is relativly easy to replace. I would also get the cooling system flushed at the same time just to make sure nothing else is blocking the lines. The only other thing it could be is the water pump starting to fail.
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    89 should come out the front. The upper radiator crossmember on the early models was bolted at both ends and can be removed so the engine can come forward. On the later models the crossmember is welded to the sides and cannot be removed without cutting it out.
  • biffoonbiffoon Member Posts: 8
    did you also replace the pulsation damper that is right next to the fuel pump, if not you can get one at rockauto.com. very cool site.
  • shadydaveshadydave Member Posts: 2
    No! I'm still looking into it. Still have no leads, very frustrating. Aparently I'ts a very common problem because evry time I talk to somebody about it they have the same problem with no answers. somebody has to have a solution for this problem? Also my range meter don't work either, you know where the compass is at, That thing, well it dose'nt give an acurate reading. I can be close to empty and it still says I can go about 200 miles, yeah right. do you have the same problem? well I hope we can get this resolved soon! Thanks :confuse:
  • dave8697dave8697 Member Posts: 1,498
    I have a 98 astro that did the same thing. I knew my water pump was leaking from the weep hole and It was Feb. in Indiana so it was cold out. My coolant level dropped more than I thought and then the low coolant level caused the temp gage to shoot up high but give the interior no heat on a 47 mile drive to work (mostly highway). Topping off the coolant level fixed the problem until I got the new water pump put in when it warmed up in March.
  • joulsjouls Member Posts: 8
    I just bought a 2000 GMC Safari,I have replace the Engine oil as well transmition flush, now i feel while the transmition is shifting it's like stop for a second and after that is shifting.
    Anybody has an Advise.

    Tanks.
  • 85astrodougie85astrodougie Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1985 Chevy Astro Cargo van, I assume with the 4.3L V6 I fixed the choke problem, the one that caused it to die after being put into gear in cold weather, while testing to see that the choke was not restricting power I muscled it a little and the engine began to knock, I believe either the piece holding the piston is about the brake, (the piston ''wrist?") or a piece of a piston broke off and is flying around the cylinder. Either way I was told by my mechinics teaher it's going to be blowing up anytime now, so far it has gone 500 miles on the knocking engine, with me driving it very carefully and taking it very easy.To add to this serios problem it has drained all it's anti-freeze. Everyone says it's junk and to just get rid of the tired van, but me and my father would like to look into placing a V8 engine in it, and Chevy is known for making things all very similar within years, and after seeing an 86 camaro engine I noticed allot of similaritis, right down to the identical 4 barrel carb, so how much work and parts would it take to put an 85 camaro engine into this 85 Astro? Since it's an 85 camaro it would be the 305 5.0L, and how hard would it be to make it fuel injected?

    :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • vikingcavikingca Member Posts: 4
    My van started stalling and then would start after 45min, then run for a while then stalled again & ran again. After sitting overnight would not start. I can hear the fuell pump runing but no firing is taking place. Checked voltages on fuse board and all are okay. Sprayed a starting solution into the air intake but still no firing. Have also switched the two ignition relays with the a/c relays (same part numbers) with out any sucess.
    Does anyone have any suggesions please? :confuse:
  • vikingcavikingca Member Posts: 4
    I belive that my van has an intermittent ignition component since at times it will not fire ( see msg#1111).
    Have measured the ignition coil & get 6K ohms from output to ground. Can anyone tell me what the small module is which is located inside the distributor which has a plug with 3 wires going to it. It has two screws securing it inside the distributor. This coild possibly be the problem along with the electronic ignition module located by the coil.
    Qoestions:
    1. Will the computerized codes show if these components become intermittent?
    2. Is there a way to test these modules?
    3. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be causing this problem or a means to analyze which part is failing???
    :confuse:
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    The simple solution would be to install a replacement 4.3 short block. If you go with the 5.0 if it is carburated than the swap will be pretty easy. The van is not set up for a fuel injected v8. You would need a higher volume fuel pump as well as the computer, engine and transmission from the donor car. There is a book out that shows step by step instructions for installing a small block v8 into s-10 pickups and astro vans which would help you get the right parts for motor mounts and exhaust. Good luck sounds like a good winter project.
  • antoniotantoniot Member Posts: 2
    My 99 gmc safari had the same problem and the feul pump had to be changed. the pump and the fuel float are intergrated. The pump and the float are located in the gas tank
  • antoniotantoniot Member Posts: 2
    My 99 Safari has the key stuck in the ignition. It can turn to the on position and back to the off position but will not release the key,never had this problem before
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