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Comments
This evening I went to start my Chevy Astra van (its a 93 or 94) and I heard this relatively loud humming noise coming from what sounded under the steering wheel dash. When I depressed the brake pedal, this humming noise changes to a lower pitch momentarily and then returns to the original pitch. Also, when the brake pedal is depressed (slightly or greatly), there is a feedback/strong vibration felt through it. Today has been the first real cold day of the season (~40 degrees) so that may have something to do with it. I've never experienced this before and would appreciate any comments/suggestions from those who might know what the source of this problem is? I suspect it is something with the brakes because of the vibration felt through the brake pedal, but I could be totally off. Thanks in advance, Jon.
This evening I went to start my Chevy Astra van (its a 93 or 94) and I heard this relatively loud humming noise coming from what sounded under the steering wheel dash. When I depressed the brake pedal, this humming noise changes to a lower pitch momentarily and then returns to the original pitch. Also, when the brake pedal is depressed (slightly or greatly), there is a feedback/strong vibration felt through it. Today has been the first real cold day of the season (~40 degrees) so that may have something to do with it. I've never experienced this before and would appreciate any comments/suggestions from those who might know what the source of this problem is? I suspect it is something with the brakes because of the vibration felt through the brake pedal, but I could be totally off. Thanks in advance, Jon.
Had my mechanic check tires and wheels (rotated front to back as well) to negate an out of round or un-balanced wheel. Also had the transfer case(s) and tranny serviced - fluid and filter.
Please help - it's driving me crazy... worrying that I am doing damage...
Thanks
BTW (I should warn you, this is the second time I've posted this problem here - you may have helped me already )
But yes, I have helped others who had like problems with Astro with limited slip. It boils down to tire wear on the rears. Those rear tires have to be very nearly the same wear on both. If one has more than the other then the limited slip tries to engage. I know because I bought new tires on mine the day I drove it off the lot when it was new. The only problem was that the tire company put a slightly different size tire on the rear. The limited slip keep trying to engage until a sharp GM mechanic noticed the wrong size tire on the rear.
Hope this helps. Keep us posted.
Thanks. nicholas
Jon
I saw one message that says get a '97 or newer - is this correct? I've also seen numerous issues owners have dealt with, but this is something I'll just have to deal with.
Anyway, since there seems to be no alternative to the Astro/Safari, what are the things I should be looking out for? I'm in CA, so I don't need/want AWD, and rust shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for any insights.
John
It may be the regulator but I am not sure. Has anyone had any experience in this type of repair?
Thanks
I am trying unsuccessfully to get my engine cover off my 94 Safari (to check the intake valve, "check engine soon" code #32). I have the Hayes manual, but ended up with the cover still screwed on from inside the engine compartment, but I couldn't find the screw heads.
Sorry for being dense, but are you saying I need to remove the "air intake filter compartment" and "shroud, top half around fan" before the engine cover can be unscrewed from inside the engine compartment? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Ginensky.
On later models, these screws are relocated to inside the cab.
Sounds like a ujoint or something. I have looked underneath and do not see anything loose. Was just curious if this was a common problem other than that the 01 Astro has been a good ride.... thnks!!!!!!
Thanks
The problem is, when idealing on cold starts, the engine will idle up and down a few times like it is going to stall out; the exhaust stinks (burning rich) even when the engine is hot; my almost two year old tail pipe is rotting out at the end, I get lousy gas mileage, and it won't pass the curb emission test because it is producing too many carbons.
Now, over the pass two years a lot of stuff has been put into the van to rectify the problem including, tune-up, new cat converter, fuel injectors removed and cleaned and a bunch of other crap. There are still no codes showing for diagnostic. Somebody suggested to us the air-intake valve? I really don't know anymore.
I really need help or a tow truck, whichever comes first. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Cat
Interestingly, the motor ideals fairly well when it is cold and becomes shaky once warm. Again, only in Drive when the idle speed is low as when stopped at a stop light.
Any other ideas are most welcome!
Interestingly, my shake problem is not noticeable when the engine is cold. When warmed up, in Drive and with the idle low as when stopped at a stop light is when the shake is noticeable. I can raise the rpm slightly and it settles down nicely. My son suggests I simply raise the idle. Maybe he's right. I'll check the rpm and see if it needs to be raised. Hard for me to believe as I've not touched the idle setting on a car since the 1970's.
Any other suggestions are much appreciated!
Thanks for your help
BillB4 :confuse:
Thanks
Anybody has an Advise.
Tanks.
:sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:
Does anyone have any suggesions please? :confuse:
Have measured the ignition coil & get 6K ohms from output to ground. Can anyone tell me what the small module is which is located inside the distributor which has a plug with 3 wires going to it. It has two screws securing it inside the distributor. This coild possibly be the problem along with the electronic ignition module located by the coil.
Qoestions:
1. Will the computerized codes show if these components become intermittent?
2. Is there a way to test these modules?
3. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be causing this problem or a means to analyze which part is failing???
:confuse: