Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
NONE THE LESS, I assure you these things are very good in winter conditions.
GOOD LUCK, Mike.
I found the part at PartsAmerica.com, a partner of Quixtar for $37.00, and was wondering how to replace it, or actually have my Husband replace it. It would seem like we would have to get the door open somehow, or do we??? Could you help me shed some light into this matter?? I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks to anyone who can help us fix the door.
Any suggestions?
Dave
I noticed today that when you start the van up, it sprays out wet black soot and leave a spray mark on the driveway. One other thing, I don't know if this is relevent, but, I also noticed the gas gage when driving will move up and down depending on whether I am excellerating for decellerating. Love my van, but it's giving me a real headache. :sick:
Thanks, Star Lord :sick:
Hope this suggestion helps...
.
I'm wondering if someone has run into the same problem,had their car repaired,any recalls about it,etc..anybody run into this problem with their AWD one?
I suggest anyone with higher milage(80,000 and up or so)check out the two brackets that hold their front end on the car!Look for cracks across the two or around the bolts.The left one starts tearing from the top to the bottom with the flex of the axle/body link...
This is my second astro,the other one I finally gave up after 200k,really happy with it.I like the AWD and EXTENDED features for hauling 4x8 sheets inside,trailers up bopat ramps,SNOW!,..used it for small remodel jobs(have a full sized van for hauling also) and playtime..never really off-road.
My problem is no one will reweld it,I can't sell it honestly,and I'm out $7000 I paid for the thing years ago(I know it's not worth that now) with my 25,000 miles put on it!I hate to see others with the same problem!
This is my first post here,so excuse me if I stepped on toes somewhere,just muddling through this..55 years old and not a teenager..Any "recall knowledge" or ? please post here..thanks,astroawdowner...
http://www.automotive.com/used-cars/recalls/11/chevrolet/astro/index.html
http://www.automotive.com/used-cars/recalls/11/gmc/safari/index.html
Hope this helps...
.
I hope this helps.
We have a 2001 Safari AWD. Like "mikemachine", our Safari is awesome in the deep snow and ice as well. It's amazing how much traction our AWD van has when its AWD kicks in. One can actually feel its front end "pull" the rest of the vehicle into the direction you want to go. Definately, great vehicle for my northern Ontario deep snow / icy roads.
The only thing I really don't like about our AWD is its current gearing. To me, its has too high of gearing. I haven't checked the exact numbers but assume it has the default 3.42 gearing. To me, it should have 3.73 gearing. Under 40 mph, our van is great. It has a good balance of toque and acceleration (for a van of this physical size). But above 40 mph, it lacks power on the hills and against a strong head wind. When going above 65 mph (to follow normal traffic on the hiway), it "lugs down" and often down shifts on the hills or strong head wind. Changing its gears on the AWD version would be too expensive. Might be worth it on its 2WD version. When our tires need replacing, I'm thinking of replacing its P215/75R/15 rubber with P215/70R/15 rubber. Its speedo will be slightly off (say 60 mph reading will actually be 56 mph) but when driving 60mph, its wheels will be spinning faster. Almost the same result as running 3.73 gears instead of the 3.42 gears. Luckily, we already have a 1" raised front and 1.5" raised rear. With the smaller 70R tires, its ground clearance would be the same as factory height.
Sorry to mumble on... If you do have a AWD and looking for more power in the upper stress conditions without "lugging" its engine, you may want to install smaller 70 tires as well. Especially if fast speed, hills or strong head wind is the norm in your driving conditions.
Hope this helps others...
.
By default, the AWD version is always carrying around approx 500 more lbs. This is why the 2wd pull weight is 5,200 lbs and its AWD version (with same 3.42 gearing) has a pull weight limit of 4,700 lbs. 500 lbs isn't much on normal flat land with no wind but when the extra power is needed, the 2wd over its 4wd has the lighter weight advantage.
By default, most Astro/Safari axles have a gear ratio of 3.42. For harsh pulling, most folks request the 4.11 gearing with their factory tow package.
To verify the gearing in both your Safaris, surf:
http://www.astrosafari.com/axleinfo.htm
Within my 2001 Safari AWD manual, it states towing weight is 4,700 with 3.42 gears and 5,200 lbs with 3.73 gears. By default, most Safar AWDs come with 3.42 gears.
If one lives in an area with hills, strong head winds or is loaded with people/cargo, or even pull small trailers, it should have a 3.73 gearing. To me, the 3.42 gearing is too high. Especially on the AWD version (and its already 500 more pounds to carry around).
There's one guy on a folding trailer forum (which I often surf) who replaced his 2wd 3.42 gearing with 3.73 gearing. He now gets better gas miles with and "without" a load. Better MPGs because his "wind wall" van no longer has to "lug" at its lower engine RPMs at the same ground speed. For him, he was very pleased that he changed its rear axle gearing from 3.42 to 3.73 gearing. No more "down shifting" on the normal hills / strong head wind for his driving area.
Hope this info helps...
.
For a simple calculator, surf: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Note: You need JAVA installed on your computer for this online calculator.
If going from a P215/75R/15 down to a P215/70R/15 (same rim size with smaller rubber), it would be the same a changing the axle gearing. It would lower the vehicle approx 1/3" (or so) but it is much less expensive then changing expensive axle gears.
Not too sure if I'd go with a 60R rubber but going down to a 70R or 65R might be worth it for you. Yes, its speedo will be a little off but who really uses their speedo meter anyway??? Most follow the flow of traffic or drive at their own comfort speed.
When our 75R tires are worn out, I'm putting 70R (maybe 65R) tires on our Safari. Thus, a little more engine RPMs and thus, it won't "down shift" as much on those hills and head wind conditions.
Hope this helps as well...
.
I have also have A similar problem with the Power Window on the Passenger side. I would work from time to time. Sometimes it would open the window but then would only inch up every 10 to 30 min. It takes sometimes all day to get the window up. If any one has had similar problem please inform how of resolution. Thanks
Something has deposited itself on the back side of the instrument panel bezel. Now I cannot read the gear shift lever position or mileage at all.
This problem first surfaced several months ago and I thought I had left the windows down and rain had found its way behind the plastic bezel. The remaining deposit made it difficult to read the mileage. I noticed today that the deposit on the bottom quarter of the bezel is now solid black and it is now impossible to read the lower half of the instrument panel.
Any ideas on what causes this ?
ceramic pads, new rotors, drums. The braking is good, but when the van is parked following a drive around town , I can smeel an aroma and carefully touched the drivers side rear brake drum. Gets hot as a fry pan. I'll touch the other passenger side drum and it is not as hot.
The mechanic took another look and made an adjustment, but still gets hot. Any ideas
I'm worried the rear driver side axle wheel bearing might get cooked from all this. Thx for any ideas.
-gary
I pulled off a couple of the wires, left them at the edge of the plugs and turned it over...spark...so I eliminated the ignition module..today, I replaced the fuel pump relay JUST to be sure....and the batteries dead! Strange...Is this a coincidence, or is the true problem, also killing the battery?
So to date, New Battery, New Starter, New Fuel Pump, New Fuel Pump Relay, New Fuel Filter......what else would prevent the vehicle from turning over and running?The check engine light does not come on, but 4 months ago, when we travelled on the highway over 50 miles an hour the check engine light was coming, on when we were driving at under 30, it turned off....
I am attempting to post all the information I can think of to cover all possibilities....I did not consider replacing the injectors, since this would suggest that all injectors failed at the same time....I don't think it is coil related, wires/plug related, since it was in fact turning over and running....just not continuing to run long enough to travel somewhere....any help would be appreciated...tomorrow, I will be checking lines to see if I have a broken line somewhere....but I doubt this, since there's no gas...not a drop..on the clean concrete where it is parked...suggestions? Possibilities I didn't cover?
RON Y
I have a 97 AWD, can I just remove the front drive shaft for the summer months? In your post you say it worked on yours but wouldn't normally work if the transfer case is not bound up. I could use the improved MPG.
COB
Cheers!
$40.00 for the tow
$70.00 for the scope
$35.00 for the no start
varies per location, but they all want $100.00 minimum to start...sheesh...I could buy wires, plugs, Ignition coil and Pickup coil for $100.00.....and the vans problem would either be solved, or the van would be better off with new parts, most of which it needs eventually anyway....
The only thing that would be left, is the Ignition Module, and if that is the culprit, I would be ahead of the game, having put new parts all over the engine......
I was just hoping someone couldreally narrow it down based on the info provided.....thanks very much for your suggestion though....are you sure it is called the oil pressure switch?
My left bracket is still hanging in there by the bottom weld and will be welded this week,took out the fan,shroud,and a lot of other parts to get to the top.The right hand side bracket I've replaced already..still need to fix the torn boot on the axle from mine falling..Do they make just replacement boots? or is it like the transfer shaft where you have to buy the entire thing for $300+ to fix just the boot?..I got a new replacement shaft but they did away with the boot and put the u joint right in front of the back mount..The problem?I had to buy a $35 wrench from snap-on because that weird socket wouldn't fit the 4 bolts now,u joint in the way,no room....hopefully I'll have the car back on the road this month.With gas at $3+ per gallon,my 10 MPG one ton van is draining my wallet! I might try taking the shaft back out,simple enough.
Has anyone tried contacting GM about the design flaw,asking them about how many they have fixed like that?(like they would tell you!)..seems to me to be pretty dangerous to hit a bump at 70 mph and have the front end collapse..appears to be a common problem with older awd astros and not from driver abuse!
Anyway, besides the screws you can get to, you need to remove the inside door handle, and what I did was then pull the panel inside, since there was no alternative. There are 2 screws you can't reach while closed, one on each side. Pulling the panel off cracked the plastic at these 2 locations, but they're only small cracks only visible when the hatch is open, and then just barely.
Once you have the panel off, you can reach into the access holes and feel around for a rod by the side latch that you can pull to release it. You'll probably have to do this while also pulling the connecting rod to the other side at the same time.
Once open, what I'm positive you'll find is that the little plastic retaining clip that holds the connecting rod to the latch rod has broken. (Whoever decided to use plastic instead of metal for this part should be shot!) The clips are less than a dollar each from your local dealer - you'll see how they work when you get one. I'd recommend replacing both sides, so you don't go through this again anytime soon. And grease them.
John
I just got myself a 1994 Astro, and need to get new tires. The ones on are 215/75 15, but how big can I put on without any mods? 255/60 15 anyone riding on that size?