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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • gmeerschaertgmeerschaert Member Posts: 7
    Just pull, out & up. There are lots of those plastic thing holding the door inner on, and some will break off. Can't be helped as far as I know.
  • gmeerschaertgmeerschaert Member Posts: 7
    You probably blew a head gasket. The coolant is going out the exhaust. New/Rebuilt engine time.
  • mikemachinemikemachine Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2000 ASTRO AWD. I can tell you with absolute confidence that these things are AMAZING in snow and ice conditions. I live in Southwestern Ontario CANADA(Great Lakes region, closest to HURON). I have had this van for almost 4 years and in the winter season I mount BRIDGSTONE BLIZZAK TIRES for some extra BITE. I have had this van crawl into my snow filled lane way like a mountain cat, sink right down to its belly and back out again with NO tire spinning. I live in a very rural area so I have the freedom to treat my local concession road like a test track sometimes. In the winter when the road has just had the drifts plowed off, leaving a good inch of compressed snow and ice on the asphalt(this is a normal thing here) I like to give the VAN and myself a little test. I will bring it to a complete stop on this wonderful surface. FLOOR it, experience NO spinning or FISH TAILING, reach 100kms/hr in about 6-8 seconds. Then slam on the BRAKES and come to a complete stop without any slipping (ABS kicks in)in about 7-10 ft. This might sound reckless but traffic is very minimal and I would never attempt such a thing if there was another vehicle anywhere in sight. We also experience fairly severe drops in TEMP here, -30'C with the windchill factor) and I have yet to have my van fail to start in the cold early mornings.
    NONE THE LESS, I assure you these things are very good in winter conditions.
    GOOD LUCK, Mike.
  • smo1smo1 Member Posts: 6
    turned out the bulb was completely clicked in - thanks for the advide. Being the silly woman that I am I may have spent $100 at a mechanic instead of the $4 for a new bul b!
  • hottmom3hottmom3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with my 97 chevy astro van. I have the 50/50 split rear doors, my daughter kicked the back door shut and shattered the door handle. Now we cant get the door open.

    I found the part at PartsAmerica.com, a partner of Quixtar for $37.00, and was wondering how to replace it, or actually have my Husband replace it. It would seem like we would have to get the door open somehow, or do we??? Could you help me shed some light into this matter?? I would greatly appreciate it.

    Thanks to anyone who can help us fix the door.
  • flintlockdaveflintlockdave Member Posts: 7
    I have an '87 Chevy Astro with 271K. The roof is rusting and I'm looking for a good solution to stop it. I was thinking about either an expensive rust stop sealer or just painting and adding a fiberglass bubble top.

    Any suggestions?

    Dave
  • falconjimfalconjim Member Posts: 5
    Just wanted to write and let everyone know that we have owned 4 Astros and 2 safari vans. We have had very good luck with them, and curently own a 99 Astro LS with 109,000 miles on it. I just recently bought back a 95 GMC Safari All wheel drive Glaval conversion van. It was stolen from us in late January of 2004, but we recovered it the same day. Whoever stole it did so for the front end parts only. We gave the van to my brother-in-law, who put it back together. It now has 172,000 miles on it, and is still in good shape body wise! The years of vans we haved owned range from 1989-1999, including 2 92 models, Astro and Safari, and 2 95 models, Both all wheel drives. Thanks, Jim.
  • clewis1clewis1 Member Posts: 6
    Hey Ron... sorry to bother you again, the van is going in tomorrow to be looked at and I thought I would send one more question your way.

    I noticed today that when you start the van up, it sprays out wet black soot and leave a spray mark on the driveway. One other thing, I don't know if this is relevent, but, I also noticed the gas gage when driving will move up and down depending on whether I am excellerating for decellerating. Love my van, but it's giving me a real headache. :sick:
  • falconjimfalconjim Member Posts: 5
    I was just wondering if anyone out there knew of where I could find the production numbers for the Astro and Safari vans? Is there a book or a web site that I can go to too find these numbers? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim.
  • star_lordstar_lord Member Posts: 1
    :blush: Does any1 know how to tell what they mean when the code says "bank 1/ sensor 2" is?

    Thanks, Star Lord :sick:
  • wolverine2wolverine2 Member Posts: 5
    Did you ever solve this problem. I have the same problem. It is fine when cold and only gets the problem when warmed up and only has the problem at idle.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    As a suggestion, you may want to take your Astro to a minimum 4 auto body shops in your area. Ask what caused this rust, how they would fix it and what products they might use to eliminate future rust (in the same spot). If wondering, the root cause of rust can be impurities in the original metal, poor primer "base coat" or chemicals (like tree sap or salt) that has eating its way through its it top paint layers. The great auto shops will fully explain the reason behind the "root cause" of this rust and the best way to eliminate this rust.

    Hope this suggestion helps...

    .
  • astroawdownerastroawdowner Member Posts: 3
    A few years ago I bought a used 1990 AWD Astro van that was supposed to be in good shape..I drove the thing about 25,000 miles and had the thing in the shop several times for a "clunk" in the front end.Then one day,I was pulling out of a parking space and something started grinding.I looked under the car and one of the axle boots was torn...took it across the street to a tire place,they jacked it up and called me out into the service bay.The right side large bracket holding the transfer case was snapped in half and another upper one on the left side had broken it's weld and pulling out of the frame!Needless to say,I drove the few blocks home and parked it because the tire company wouldn't repair it for 'responsibility problems'..It's been sitting at home for 3 years,just didn't have the time to deal with it.I now have the time so ran down to the local "pull-a-part(do-it-yourself wrecking yard)and checked out another AWD Astro to see what a headache it would be to get to the brackets.That one had the entire front end off of it(grill,radiator,fan,belts,some steering parts,etc)and had the SAME IDENTICAL BREAKAGE going on!The left upper bracket was completely torn out from wear and the right one holding the body weight was starting to tear also.
    I'm wondering if someone has run into the same problem,had their car repaired,any recalls about it,etc..anybody run into this problem with their AWD one?
    I suggest anyone with higher milage(80,000 and up or so)check out the two brackets that hold their front end on the car!Look for cracks across the two or around the bolts.The left one starts tearing from the top to the bottom with the flex of the axle/body link...
    This is my second astro,the other one I finally gave up after 200k,really happy with it.I like the AWD and EXTENDED features for hauling 4x8 sheets inside,trailers up bopat ramps,SNOW!,..used it for small remodel jobs(have a full sized van for hauling also) and playtime..never really off-road.
    My problem is no one will reweld it,I can't sell it honestly,and I'm out $7000 I paid for the thing years ago(I know it's not worth that now) with my 25,000 miles put on it!I hate to see others with the same problem!
    This is my first post here,so excuse me if I stepped on toes somewhere,just muddling through this..55 years old and not a teenager..Any "recall knowledge" or ? please post here..thanks,astroawdowner...
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    For list of GMC Astro/Safari recalls, surf:

    http://www.automotive.com/used-cars/recalls/11/chevrolet/astro/index.html

    http://www.automotive.com/used-cars/recalls/11/gmc/safari/index.html

    Hope this helps...

    .
  • astroawdownerastroawdowner Member Posts: 3
    Thanks..I checked it out but nothing like this is listed...something that happens with time I guess...Fortunately I was in a parking lot when the second bracket gave out.Several mechanics had looked for the "clunk problem" and I was charged for searches,charged for tightening the shock bolts,etc..I finally gave up having mecahnics look for it($$$)..figured it might be a loose exhaust bracket or something.This does produce a dangerous situation with two of the three main supports(other than the shocks) for the body breaking from stress...As it is,the bracket on mine holding the left top end ..welds are broken on all three sides except across the bottom.I've replaced the bottom right bracket holding the case which was totally snapped in half across the 3" middle of it...with only the rear bracket really supporting anything.The ride didn't really feel abnormal except it seemed to drag on corners..I didn't/don't know if they all feel like that in turning corners..Thanks for the link..astroawdowner
  • buzzard1100buzzard1100 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000Safari which I bought used about 3 years ago with 45000 miles on it. It had the same symptoms yours does. The dealer was going to replace the trans fluid along with the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids for about $480.00. Even though it was still under warrantee, fluid changes were not covered. I saw a blog where someone recommended changing the transfer case fluid and filling it with a mixture of dextron III and a friction enhancer. After about two days of normal driving the shuttering went away and never came back. That was three years and over 100,000 miles ago.

    I hope this helps.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    re: AWD in snow???

    We have a 2001 Safari AWD. Like "mikemachine", our Safari is awesome in the deep snow and ice as well. It's amazing how much traction our AWD van has when its AWD kicks in. One can actually feel its front end "pull" the rest of the vehicle into the direction you want to go. Definately, great vehicle for my northern Ontario deep snow / icy roads.

    The only thing I really don't like about our AWD is its current gearing. To me, its has too high of gearing. I haven't checked the exact numbers but assume it has the default 3.42 gearing. To me, it should have 3.73 gearing. Under 40 mph, our van is great. It has a good balance of toque and acceleration (for a van of this physical size). But above 40 mph, it lacks power on the hills and against a strong head wind. When going above 65 mph (to follow normal traffic on the hiway), it "lugs down" and often down shifts on the hills or strong head wind. Changing its gears on the AWD version would be too expensive. Might be worth it on its 2WD version. When our tires need replacing, I'm thinking of replacing its P215/75R/15 rubber with P215/70R/15 rubber. Its speedo will be slightly off (say 60 mph reading will actually be 56 mph) but when driving 60mph, its wheels will be spinning faster. Almost the same result as running 3.73 gears instead of the 3.42 gears. Luckily, we already have a 1" raised front and 1.5" raised rear. With the smaller 70R tires, its ground clearance would be the same as factory height.

    Sorry to mumble on... If you do have a AWD and looking for more power in the upper stress conditions without "lugging" its engine, you may want to install smaller 70 tires as well. Especially if fast speed, hills or strong head wind is the norm in your driving conditions.

    Hope this helps others...

    .
  • falconjimfalconjim Member Posts: 5
    Hello, just thought I'd let you know that we have a 99 Astro 2-wheel drive. It doesn't seem to do what your van does and will actually accelerate going up a hill with the cruise control on without it down shifting out of overdrive. I have however experienced what your describing in our 95 all wheel drive Safari, so I never used the cruise control on it, as Interstate 80 in western Iowa is very hilly! I'm curious as to what the gearing is in the 2-wheel drive versus the all-wheel drive vans? Jim.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    re: AWD "down shifting" when fighting hills or head wind when compared to its 2wd version....

    By default, the AWD version is always carrying around approx 500 more lbs. This is why the 2wd pull weight is 5,200 lbs and its AWD version (with same 3.42 gearing) has a pull weight limit of 4,700 lbs. 500 lbs isn't much on normal flat land with no wind but when the extra power is needed, the 2wd over its 4wd has the lighter weight advantage.

    By default, most Astro/Safari axles have a gear ratio of 3.42. For harsh pulling, most folks request the 4.11 gearing with their factory tow package.

    To verify the gearing in both your Safaris, surf:

    http://www.astrosafari.com/axleinfo.htm

    Within my 2001 Safari AWD manual, it states towing weight is 4,700 with 3.42 gears and 5,200 lbs with 3.73 gears. By default, most Safar AWDs come with 3.42 gears.

    If one lives in an area with hills, strong head winds or is loaded with people/cargo, or even pull small trailers, it should have a 3.73 gearing. To me, the 3.42 gearing is too high. Especially on the AWD version (and its already 500 more pounds to carry around).

    There's one guy on a folding trailer forum (which I often surf) who replaced his 2wd 3.42 gearing with 3.73 gearing. He now gets better gas miles with and "without" a load. Better MPGs because his "wind wall" van no longer has to "lug" at its lower engine RPMs at the same ground speed. For him, he was very pleased that he changed its rear axle gearing from 3.42 to 3.73 gearing. No more "down shifting" on the normal hills / strong head wind for his driving area.

    Hope this info helps...

    .
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    If your tires need to be replaced, you want to change the gearing but can't afford the expensive axle gear replacement parts, one option is to change its tire size.

    For a simple calculator, surf: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
    Note: You need JAVA installed on your computer for this online calculator.

    If going from a P215/75R/15 down to a P215/70R/15 (same rim size with smaller rubber), it would be the same a changing the axle gearing. It would lower the vehicle approx 1/3" (or so) but it is much less expensive then changing expensive axle gears.

    Not too sure if I'd go with a 60R rubber but going down to a 70R or 65R might be worth it for you. Yes, its speedo will be a little off but who really uses their speedo meter anyway??? Most follow the flow of traffic or drive at their own comfort speed.

    When our 75R tires are worn out, I'm putting 70R (maybe 65R) tires on our Safari. Thus, a little more engine RPMs and thus, it won't "down shift" as much on those hills and head wind conditions.

    Hope this helps as well...

    .
  • tomy66tomy66 Member Posts: 2
    I have a similar Problem. My 97 Astro's Remote would only open all doors but front Passenger. After about 20 days it would then only open Front Passenger. After it seized to open either of the locks so now I am forced to use the Key. I can hear a Hum when I push either remote or Power lock Switch but nothing happens.
    I have also have A similar problem with the Power Window on the Passenger side. I would work from time to time. Sometimes it would open the window but then would only inch up every 10 to 30 min. It takes sometimes all day to get the window up. If any one has had similar problem please inform how of resolution. Thanks
  • normonormo Member Posts: 1
    Own a 2000 Safari with 65000 miles. Has been great so far.

    Something has deposited itself on the back side of the instrument panel bezel. Now I cannot read the gear shift lever position or mileage at all.

    This problem first surfaced several months ago and I thought I had left the windows down and rain had found its way behind the plastic bezel. The remaining deposit made it difficult to read the mileage. I noticed today that the deposit on the bottom quarter of the bezel is now solid black and it is now impossible to read the lower half of the instrument panel.

    Any ideas on what causes this ?
  • garyvolgaryvol Member Posts: 15
    Recently got all around brake job.
    ceramic pads, new rotors, drums. The braking is good, but when the van is parked following a drive around town , I can smeel an aroma and carefully touched the drivers side rear brake drum. Gets hot as a fry pan. I'll touch the other passenger side drum and it is not as hot.
    The mechanic took another look and made an adjustment, but still gets hot. Any ideas
    I'm worried the rear driver side axle wheel bearing might get cooked from all this. Thx for any ideas.
    -gary
  • dreamcatcher2dreamcatcher2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 Astro 4.3 Litre.....it was running well enough until someone tried to steal it a month ago..since then, I put in a brand new battery and starter. Recently, the wife was running it pretty low on gas, and it was running in damp weather a little sputtery......when it was warmer, and it was relatively dry, it started running much better. 1 week ago, I started her up, drove her to the store, but when I came out,turned her over and started driving, she died like it was out of gas.....it started up again, died after a few seconds, and least 3 times in a row, and finally I got it started enough to get it home. After that, it would only start and run for a few seconds then quietly die like it was out of gfas...I listened for the fuel pump, couldn't hear it several times, assumed it was the culprit, and replace it, along with the fuel filter.....the next morning, when I tried to start it? SAME PROBLEM.....starts, dies, starts, dies.....I put in about 10-15 bucks worth of gas, and a neighbor suggested it may not be enough gas in there....I am no mechanic, but hardly think this is it...

    I pulled off a couple of the wires, left them at the edge of the plugs and turned it over...spark...so I eliminated the ignition module..today, I replaced the fuel pump relay JUST to be sure....and the batteries dead! Strange...Is this a coincidence, or is the true problem, also killing the battery?

    So to date, New Battery, New Starter, New Fuel Pump, New Fuel Pump Relay, New Fuel Filter......what else would prevent the vehicle from turning over and running?The check engine light does not come on, but 4 months ago, when we travelled on the highway over 50 miles an hour the check engine light was coming, on when we were driving at under 30, it turned off....

    I am attempting to post all the information I can think of to cover all possibilities....I did not consider replacing the injectors, since this would suggest that all injectors failed at the same time....I don't think it is coil related, wires/plug related, since it was in fact turning over and running....just not continuing to run long enough to travel somewhere....any help would be appreciated...tomorrow, I will be checking lines to see if I have a broken line somewhere....but I doubt this, since there's no gas...not a drop..on the clean concrete where it is parked...suggestions? Possibilities I didn't cover?
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    I don't know if this helps, on a 94 S-10 blazer with the same engine, I had a low oil pressure switch that when it went bad would not allow the engine to run. I assume the 90 astro with 4.3 has a similar switch. Have you checked that? Since the van would run for a minute and then die. You may not have an oil pressure problem but, the switch may have gone bad.
  • ronbo66ronbo66 Member Posts: 11
    Well, I was wondering when SOMEONE ELCE was going to have the same problem I had to deal with last year, I bought a 91 awd for 1000 bucks because the LH frame bracket on the front diff was torn out.I repaired it my self by having the auto wrecker cut out a bracket off a frame in the bone yard cleaning up the area on mine and stickweding the replacement bracket back in I then replaced the fron diff because the housing was cracked from the whole front end falling down while driving (I assume as the I bought it at auction) When I got the girl back together I noticed the transfer case was locked up but good. ( see complaints about a binding feeling in parking lots or on slow sharp turns)I was out of money so I drove it all year like that recently the rh spring steel bracket snapped in two and the rubber mounts were ready to tear out again! The solution? get a good transfer case and all will be fine , Incedently after fixing the brackets I removed the front drive shaft and have been using it in rwd mode for 3 months now with no further issues. I will eventually fix the damn thing!Normally you cannot do this but the transfer case is so hopelessly bound up it drives the rear with out slipping! We increased our fuel ecomomy by 10 mpg also! it was really slowing us down before. If you need any more info I have been studying this issue since I got it and would be glsd to give you some more info if you need it

    RON Y
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    Ron,

    I have a 97 AWD, can I just remove the front drive shaft for the summer months? In your post you say it worked on yours but wouldn't normally work if the transfer case is not bound up. I could use the improved MPG.

    COB
  • ronbo66ronbo66 Member Posts: 11
    I could not tell you for sure, In therory it should not work beacuse the load of the front driveshaft has to do with the slippage allowed to the rear wheels. I decided to try it only because I knew the transfer case was fubar. The increased mileage was mostly due to the fact the front and rear wheels were not fighting each other! I belive if your transfer case is operating properly you may not see those kind of gains. You could always try it; it takes about 10 minits to remove the 8 bolts. You will need a special 8 point female torx socket on some models to remove the bolts. If it does not work just pop it back in again!

    Cheers!
  • dreamcatcher2dreamcatcher2 Member Posts: 2
    Oil pressure switch? Hmmm....well, why would that allow for the vehicle starting, running for a bit then dieing? I thought the oil pressure switch was just an indicator light on the dash, or a gauge telling you when you have low oil pressure? How would either of these account for the problem? Many have told me to replace the Ignition Module, and the pick up coil for starters...problem is,the Module isn't exactly cheap...costing approximately $122.00...so I am not keen on replacing apart that may not be the problem.....could also be a bad wire on the Ignition Coil, or bad coil....so I am looking at replacing those two, and putting in new plugs and wires....the van needs them as proper maintenance anyway....I am stubborn about taking it to a mechanic, since every single place I've spoken to, has indicated it will be:

    $40.00 for the tow
    $70.00 for the scope
    $35.00 for the no start

    varies per location, but they all want $100.00 minimum to start...sheesh...I could buy wires, plugs, Ignition coil and Pickup coil for $100.00.....and the vans problem would either be solved, or the van would be better off with new parts, most of which it needs eventually anyway....

    The only thing that would be left, is the Ignition Module, and if that is the culprit, I would be ahead of the game, having put new parts all over the engine......

    I was just hoping someone couldreally narrow it down based on the info provided.....thanks very much for your suggestion though....are you sure it is called the oil pressure switch?
  • ldoscherldoscher Member Posts: 4
    Need some details on how to find the distributor, rotor and camshaft sensor. 2002 Astro- haven't been in a car this new before and don't see what I'm used to seeing!
  • ldoscherldoscher Member Posts: 4
    Need some details on how to find the distributor, rotor and camshaft sensor. 2002 Astro- haven't been in a car this new before and don't see what I'm used to seeing! Lots of black plastic!!
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    The Haynes manual wireing diagram calls it the oil pressure switch and sending unit. It is wired to the fuse block under hood and fuel pump relay. If it detects alow oil pressure it shuts off the engine to keep it from damaging. If could be getting a false reading. The van starts and then stalls when it gets a low reading. That was just one posibility.
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    You need to remove the engine covers inside the van. The distributor is on the back of the engine. The rotor and camshaft sensor is under the distributor cap.
  • ldoscherldoscher Member Posts: 4
    Thanks. Went and bought a manual so I won't have to ask such stupid questions again.
  • astroawdownerastroawdowner Member Posts: 3
    Hi!I had to put in a new front case a while ago because a mechanic that had to replace the two cooler lines that went over the left shaft removed half the case and the shaft connection to get the lines in..forgot to tighten the bolts on the 6 bolt plate axle connection plate AND the case bolts were only handtightened.It was 6 months before I started hearing the grinding and crunching of only 3 bolts(of 6) left holding the axle on and all the fluid gone in the case.Needless to say,I do ALL my OWN work now,haven't found a trustworthy mechanic in the Seattle area for at least 15 years!
    My left bracket is still hanging in there by the bottom weld and will be welded this week,took out the fan,shroud,and a lot of other parts to get to the top.The right hand side bracket I've replaced already..still need to fix the torn boot on the axle from mine falling..Do they make just replacement boots? or is it like the transfer shaft where you have to buy the entire thing for $300+ to fix just the boot?..I got a new replacement shaft but they did away with the boot and put the u joint right in front of the back mount..The problem?I had to buy a $35 wrench from snap-on because that weird socket wouldn't fit the 4 bolts now,u joint in the way,no room....hopefully I'll have the car back on the road this month.With gas at $3+ per gallon,my 10 MPG one ton van is draining my wallet! I might try taking the shaft back out,simple enough.
    Has anyone tried contacting GM about the design flaw,asking them about how many they have fixed like that?(like they would tell you!)..seems to me to be pretty dangerous to hit a bump at 70 mph and have the front end collapse..appears to be a common problem with older awd astros and not from driver abuse!
  • ronbo66ronbo66 Member Posts: 11
    I tried to talk to Gm but of coarse they NEVER heard of the issue! ya right, The definatly Know about the Transfer case quality but they wont admit to that either. Since the Transfer Case is the underliying issue with the Breakage Myself and the other gentleman experienced Its Really our fault because we didnt replace the $1500 case before it damaged the driveline parts.Well Im sure you can hear the sarcasm in that statement. Luckily I am a mechanic but since we bought it for 1000 bucks we have put in over 3000 since then! All parts cost as labour was mine only!However My wife and I love the van and we really dont care at this point I couldent bear to part with it as I have so much work in now. Some of that money was spent on upgrades like- Kyb MOnomax shocks,k&N air filter, Ride rite air bag rear suspention kit, Yokohama Lt tires, stereo, driving lights etc. we use it for two week camping every year and tow my tent trailer and small boat 300 miles each way and with three kids Im afraid its indespensible to me! I guess that Means More work in the future huh! CHEERS RON Y.
  • egillettegillett Member Posts: 14
    I bought a 2000 awd Astro 2 years back. Good handling in Pennsylvania weather but have problems with ABS brake system. Pull ABS fuse and brakes work well. A mechanic said it was a sensor problem but I just had a similar problem with my 2002 Chevy Blazer and they replaced the computer board. I think I'd suggest looking at something else. When mfg. don't correct problems year after year or offer a help line for we backyard mechanics, I say "let them all go under"! They are not loyal to us, why be loyal to them? ANYONE KNOW WHERE THE ABS BOARD IS LOCATED IN A 2000 ASTRO AWD???
  • egillettegillett Member Posts: 14
    I suggest that we start a campaign to let the "big three" auto makers know that if they want us to buy their products, they need to offer us support here in the field. Not everyone can afford to constantly drop money at the dealers while they try to fix a problem that has been around for years. I would be loyal to any mfg that would step up and offer an "after market" hand at resolving issues. I didn't buy their vehicle to make the dealer rich on service and parts! What say you???
  • fardeleanfardelean Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 Astro 4.3L V6. Sounds familiar. Mine would do the same thing not to the same exreme as yours but I ended up replacing the coil and problems were fixed. The coil when mine was going bad was not creating the proper amount of spark at the sparkplugs in the cylinders so it would chug now and then and stall out. Hope it helps.
  • fardeleanfardelean Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 Astro. You will have to take out 2screws one on each side of the console. there are 2 bolts at the bottom also. Once the screws and bolts are off yank the console out a bit. Its only held in by some clamps so just give it a yank. Be careful cuz there is a wire attached to it. Just unclip it. After that grab a 5/8 socket and ratchet. you will need a long, extension. These are located inside the cab but towards the motor up about a foot off the floor. Remove those two bolts and yank that big thing out of there. Cap, Rotor and the camshaft sensor is also called a pick up coil. I just replaced mine had same code, same description. My van still not running right though.
  • johnginctjohnginct Member Posts: 1
    I need some help on how to get inside the rear hatch door of my astro. The last time I used the hatch door, it closed fine but when I went to open it later in the day, the left side wouldn't release. I hear the mechanism working inside but only on the right side. The left side release is not popping for some reason. Any ideas on how to get inside the hatch door? I already tried to attack it from inside the vehicle by removing the two lower screws on the molding but I still can't get the plastic molding off. It looks like there are few other screws that I can't reach when the door is closed. Any suggestions other than the jaws of life?
  • gwell99gwell99 Member Posts: 1
    I'm not sure how to find the gear ratio on my 99 astro. I wasn't sure what the max tow weight is. The owners manual lists three possible-3.27, 3.42, 3.73. I bought it used and the previous owner didn't know either.
  • paul5656paul5656 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Astro AWD. As I turn corners the wheels hop. It feels like the old full time 4 wheel drive truck when you turned corners it hops just not quite so bad. I was told that if it happens when you turn left to change the right front axle. I changed it with no improvement. I have had it to several tire places with no ideas of what to do. Any help...
  • clewis1clewis1 Member Posts: 6
    Well, here I am again. Same problem as usual. I have a 95 Astro that is producing way too many hydrocarbons (and I mean way too many... it stinks) during a curb emissions test; however, it passes all other categories with flying colours. This has been an ongoing mystery for four years now (running up the bill) and we just put another arm and leg into this van and still, nobody can fix it. (Can't sell it either without an emission test.) My mechanic is now talking there may be a problem with the fuel injector. We are on a conditional pass and must get a pass in order to keep it on the road. The list is endless on what we have had done, including ignition coil, EGR, O2 sensor, etc. Just this past weekend the engine light actually came on for the first time showing a CODE 45 (running rich)... no kidding, I guess it was just reminding me (since then, the engine light has not come on again). Any ideas out there???? I am just tired of all this work and money and have not gotten anywhere with it. :cry:
  • ldoscherldoscher Member Posts: 4
    Had the same symptoms. After it failed to start the first time I charged battery and it started. Immediately acted like it was out of gas, raced to the gas station trying to keep it from stalling. Gas tank appeared to have been siphoned. Got to drive it about two more times, then it just completely died. Replaced the battery. No go. Bought a code reader and found 341. Put a gas additive in the tank, changed out the distributor cap, rotor, and Camshaft Position Sensor, recharged the new battery. Turned the key and she roared to life. Been running better than ever.
  • richly917richly917 Member Posts: 4
    This a well known problem with most (all?) Astro Vans. It was a GM recall which consisted of changing fluid in the transfer case. I don't know if the recall covered out of warranty vehicles. But, at least, all Chevrolet dealers know about the problem. It's very old news. I have two Astro Vans and both required the fix. It's not a big deal.
  • johnaecjohnaec Member Posts: 11
    I had exactly this same thing happen to me. It's a catch-22 situation, you need to get the door panel off to fix the problem, but can't do it with the door closed. I wonder what brilliant engineer came up with this??

    Anyway, besides the screws you can get to, you need to remove the inside door handle, and what I did was then pull the panel inside, since there was no alternative. There are 2 screws you can't reach while closed, one on each side. Pulling the panel off cracked the plastic at these 2 locations, but they're only small cracks only visible when the hatch is open, and then just barely.

    Once you have the panel off, you can reach into the access holes and feel around for a rod by the side latch that you can pull to release it. You'll probably have to do this while also pulling the connecting rod to the other side at the same time.

    Once open, what I'm positive you'll find is that the little plastic retaining clip that holds the connecting rod to the latch rod has broken. (Whoever decided to use plastic instead of metal for this part should be shot!) The clips are less than a dollar each from your local dealer - you'll see how they work when you get one. I'd recommend replacing both sides, so you don't go through this again anytime soon. And grease them.

    John
  • froddanfroddan Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm new here, so a big hello to each and everyone.
    I just got myself a 1994 Astro, and need to get new tires. The ones on are 215/75 15, but how big can I put on without any mods? 255/60 15 anyone riding on that size?
  • richly917richly917 Member Posts: 4
    I wouldn't change the standard tire size if it were me. But that's just my personal opinion. And if it is an AWD you must have front and rear tires exactly the same diameter.
  • froddanfroddan Member Posts: 2
    Ok, thanks for your reply. It's just that here in the UK it's not too easy to find that size tires. Mine is not AWD by the way.
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