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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Yes, the compressions seem good, 160 sounds better.

    I'd save fooling with the fuel injectors until the last resort, because you sprayed fuel in the intake and it did not start, so that seems to me to eliminate the "no fuel" problem. On the other hand, if the injectors flooded the engine, I would think it would have started or tried to start after you put the dried spark plugs back in. You might go back to the fuel pressure and see if it holds pressure, to be sure the injectors are not leaking down. With ignition ON and motor not running, the fuel pressure should build up to specs, then turn off ignition, the pressure should remain constant for several minutes before a drop in pressure.

    Doing the Spark/Length test like I described is the easiest and quickest way to check the voltage on the ignition system. A spark tester would not be able to do it any better, a scope just gives you a visual display on the screen, but looking at the length of the spark gives you a direct indication of the relative available voltage. The higher the voltage, the longer the arc can be. You start with the gap almost closed and slowly increase the gap, Longer Gap means Higher Voltage. I would suggest you check the spark Intensity and Length to be sure it is strong enough.

    Fuel injector timing should be set by the distributor timing. As long as the distributor is in time, the engine computer should know which cylinder is ready to fire and fire the injector at the right time. I was just checking to see if this might be an issue and if anything in your manual addressed it. I think this is more of an issue on cars that use the Coil Packs and Coil On Plugs, as they don't have distributors and have to have camshaft sensors to signal the computer and injectors when to fire. I would assume for now that your injectors are in time.

    In summary, I would suggest you check the spark intensity/length and be sure it is strong enough.

    About the Explorer, I don't know what resistance you were measuring, but if a given circuit is supposed to read 10,000 ohms and you read infinity, then it is an open circuit and it is bad or out of spec. I don't know what they did to the injectors, I never had any trouble with them on any of my 4 Explorers over the last 10 years. I pour a can of fuel system cleaner into the gas tank at each oil change. My idle is smooth at about 600-650 rpm when warm. It runs about 1100 rpm when first started, and slows down to 650 rpm in a couple of minutes.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • fixitrodfixitrod Member Posts: 67
    I found this great site on fuel injections and there is technical service bulletin about the problems with these systems. www.lindertech.com the article is "underhood pattern failures of cpi injection system." and so many of the things you and I have been focusing on are addresssed here. They discuss the need for the leakdown test you suggested and also to look at the intake manifold tuning valve.Check it out?
  • mannyarrogantemannyarrogante Member Posts: 1
    How do you get the door opened first if it is jammed in the first place? I also have a 94 Astro and the back (top left) appears stuck.
  • fixitrodfixitrod Member Posts: 67
    The haynes manual gives several checks for hesitation...check them out. Check out the fuel pressure cold/warm. You probably have TBI fuel injection but I hope its not that.
  • crzmn1crzmn1 Member Posts: 2
    the link is in the engine compartment on the fire wall and goes from the point where the positive mounts is split into 4 fuseable links that control a part of the fuse block when i hook up the test light to ground it wont light but when i hook it up to positive the fuel pump relay clicks rapidly
  • 2001astrolt2001astrolt Member Posts: 11
    Do you happen to know what the resolution was???? New Torque converter? Something else?

    Thanks
  • rrlambertrrlambert Member Posts: 1
    Both the front left and right wheel bearings on a 2003 Astro (<30 K miles) went out a few months after a dealer replaced both front left and right ball joints. The ball joint work was done under warranty but the bearing work was done out of warranty. The dealership refused to admit it was related to their work but only charged half the standard repair fee.

    My Questions:
    1) When replacing the ball joint is loosing the wheel bearing nut or adjusting the wheel bearing in any way standard practice?
    2) Does the Astro shop manual list any steps that would affect the wheel bearing?

    Thanks for your help.
  • dtreetdtreet Member Posts: 5
    my gauge will have four gallons left and read 3/4 full.
    It also will drop completly to the left and then switch back to above full in the course of a few seconds.
    It also seems to vibrate at times.
    Any ideas?
  • jodivanjodivan Member Posts: 11
    i am wondering about the Safari myself. test drove a 2000 with my daughter cause they need 8 seats, and it seemed ok. but when i started doing some checking, found out it is on the 'LEMON' list, problems with heat being cold in rear, transmission problems, electrical, etc. Have you found anything else that has 8 seats and is roomy? :confuse:
  • jodivanjodivan Member Posts: 11
    Did you get another Safari? if so, was it a good one? just went and test drove a 2000 Safari with my daughter who needs 8 seats for 4500 here in flint, had been sold at auctin to used car dealer. Checking out on this site, i am kinda concerned now, since they are talking about transmission problems, etc. We have no family mechanic and they cant afford big repairs either. it has just under hundred thousand miles on it. is there a way to find out more about that particular vehicle? :confuse:
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Go to Google and type in "2000 GMC Safari" and you will find all kinds of information.
  • lind777lind777 Member Posts: 7
    My Haynes manual does not cover the replacement of front wheel bearing on an AWD Safarai or Astro. It looks pretty simple but I thought I would ask if anyone has any simple steps to follow or tips. Anything special about removing the big nut? Should I brek it free before I jack it up?

    Thanks.

    Don
  • baldwin4baldwin4 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '97 Astro. When I am driving in the upper speeds (55 mph) and when we start going up a incline or the motor requires a little more power, the climate control will switch to windshield defrost from vent or floor. When the motor goes back to normal speed, it switches back to wherever I have the climate control set at on the dash. Just replaced water pump and heat temp control valve on the motor. Possible vaccum leak or ? Any helpful advice needed.
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    I don't know of anything special. The AWD don't have wheel bearings that can be repacked at brake job intervals. There is a sealed bearing/hub assembly just like 99% of the rest of the vehicles on the road. Should be able to remove in one piece.
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    Could be vacuum leak which is what usually happens but in your case when the engine increases speed the vacuum pressure would also increase. The default setting when there is no vacuum is to the defrost mode. Your system is running opposite. Usually the slower the engine RPMs the less vacuum pressure which means your system should be running at defrost on the level surface and switch to the actual setting upon acceleration. Check the small vacuum line that runs across the front of the engine around the goose neck for the upper radiator hose.
  • friccifricci Member Posts: 1
    My dad thinks someone tried to steal his 2004 astro van because when he tried to start the van his key will not move the ignition at all. He also tried his spare key with the same outcome. I also tried and cannot move the ignition at all. The key hole doesnt look messed up, but it obviously doesnt work. Does anyone know how to replace it, or can link me to a download for the service manual?
  • garyvolgaryvol Member Posts: 15
    Sometimes it can be the following
    1- flip the key over and then insert to start.
    2- wiggle the steering wheel as you turn the ignition key.
    I've had that occurrance in the past.
    -gary :shades:
  • n5445n5445 Member Posts: 28
    The problem is the pins inside the cylinder are stuck in one position.

    A little time consuming, but to fix this problem:
    Get some rags, flashlight, toothpicks, anything small enough to fit inside the key slot(i use small hex keys)and some lubricant(wd-40, oil)

    What your trying to do is release the stuck key pin inside the cylinder.

    The pins are toward the bottom of the cylinder
    Just keep lubricating the small piece(hex key,toothpick) and apply pressure towards the bottom of the cylinder as you pull back.

    push the piece in and pull out putting downward pressure as you remove it.
    Continue this for however long it takes. It make take a while.

    Also spray the ignition key and slip that in and out several times.
    Wipe any debris from the piece or key as you see it being removed from the cylinder.
    usually takes somewhere between 15-30 min of this to release the sticking pin in the cylinder.

    One the cylinder is working continue the process for another 5 min or so to remove any debris left inside the cylinder.

    Ive done this several times on differnt vehicles.
    Well worth the time!!!!
    keep flipping the key over each time you lubricate it.
    Dont break off the toothpicks if you use those to get inside the cylinder.

    Hope this helps

    If it doesn't, you may have an out of place spring inside there and it's not pushing the pins up, thus making the cylinder think the wrong key is being inserted.

    With the flashlight you should be able to see which pin is not all the way up, usually(my luck) its toward the back of the cylinder.
  • fortee9erfortee9er Member Posts: 134
    The a/c fan on my 1998 Safari will not work on the hi speed position. Has anyone encountered this problem and what is the fix?
    Thanks
    Jorge
  • fortee9erfortee9er Member Posts: 134
    I bought a 1998 GMC Safari with 49k miles on January 2001 for #12K. It is a 2wd model and it is fully loaded. It now has 109k miles and during this time I've had the following major problems:
    1- paint peeled off in sheets from the roof and hood.
    2- a/c system had to be replaced twice (leaky compressor).
    3- a/c still leaks but a lower rate.
    There have other smaller problems like having to replace tires at an alarming rate but this is due to the tires themselves and replacement has been under warranty. The leather on the dirver's seat and the front passenger have cracked and ripped. Looks like cheap quality leather not up to its intended use. I will probably have the two front seats re-upholstered soon. Last year the van was in a small fender bender and I had the body shop repaint the hood and the roof while they were repairing the accident damage.
    Overall the van has provided good service and has been reliable but at a price. Had I gone with a Honda or a Toyota my upfront cost would have been at least 50% more.
    I am now considering replacing the Safari but I am not sure what is available that would offer as much room, the amenities and better reliability.
    Jorge
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    It is most likely the fan relay, or it could be the fuse is blown in the fan relay circuit, ot it could be the fan switch is bad, or it could be a loose wire or loose connection.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • houseapehouseape Member Posts: 2
    At WOT there is less vacuum than at closed or part throttle. I would suspect that the Vacuum Ball (or line to it) is leaking. The vacuum ball is used as a Vacuum reservoir so that the HVAC has enough vacuum to operate properly when the engine is under part or full load such as accelerating or going up a steep hill.
  • ccb369ccb369 Member Posts: 1
    On my 1997 Astro only one side of the rear door window will "pop" open. I can not get the window to open, which mean I haven't been able to open the dutch doors either.
  • becquibecqui Member Posts: 1
    Can you or anyone tell me how you fixed the rear cargo door handle and or how to get into the doors?
  • ramzoniramzoni Member Posts: 5
    I have had to fix mine 3 times (the handle kept coming loose from the inner latch assembly) and it seems like we pried loose the panel after removing all of the screws around it and pulling the speaker casing off. I don't remember exactly. The handle assembly itself operates on a rod that connects with these little metal clips. If the clip slips or is not crimped tight, it pops off the bar and then the handle is just floppy and doesn't work. I believe we also had to figure out a way to open the back door first in order to fully access the panel, which presents more of a challenge. I think if you can get the speaker out, then reach inside the door, you can pull on the bar that will make the door open. I know for a while, our door handle would work ONLY if someone was hitting the unlock button repeatedly while the other person pushed in on the metal right above the door handle while pulling on the door handle. You might try that first to see if you can get it to open that way. I witnessed someone at a gas station doing the same thing with their Astro back door too. Ours seems to work okay now that it has been fixed 3 times, except that I still have to push in above the handle (to relieve tension on the latch) while pulling on the handle. Good luck!!
  • ramzoniramzoni Member Posts: 5
    I know it sounds weird. 90 Astro with 169K mi on it, been a wonderful vehicle with very few problems. When it gets to 50+mph, it almost feels like transmission is slipping. Had tranny fluid changed, but mechanic said the old fluid looked good and no metal chards in pan, etc. Tranny feels good otherwise. Wondering about a fuel problem? Have to drop tank to get to fuel pump, so exploring all options first. Could it be the fuel injectors? Clogged fuel filter? Anyone else had a similar problem? Is there a way to bypass the old fuel pump with a modified line so that we don't have to drop the tank?
  • indyjenindyjen Member Posts: 4
    My check engine light came on in the van (131K miles) today - I am trading the van in on saturday, already have an appraisal and I don't want to have to put any money into this thing this week!!!!

    We did nothing usual today - we did get gas yesterday. I have opened and retightened the gas cap. The van seems to run fine. It is overdue for an oil change.....

    Any suggestions.....
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    Depends on how honest you want to be? You can get the light to turn off and erase the codes by either removing the neg battery cable for 5-10 minutes or I believe the fuse in the box by the battery labeled ignition #1 will do the same thing. Rest start the van and see if the light stays off. Otherwise instead of option one, erasing the code, drive to the nearest Autozone and they will hookup a scanner to read the code for free. It may just be a dirty sensor that can easily be cleaned or replaced.
  • egillettegillett Member Posts: 14
    The only way to get to it is by removing the inside panel and speaker grill. Make sure once you get it fixed that you lubricate the latching mechanism regularly or you will become very good at removing the back inside panel. Same goes for the hood release latch. Lubricate regularly and look for it to bend slightly from being closed. All will cause it to hang up. Good luck!
  • egillettegillett Member Posts: 14
    I've seen several plug in code scanners advertised at PEP BOYS. Has anyone bought one and do they work and is it worth the money???

    An Inquiring mind
  • indyjenindyjen Member Posts: 4
    Honest is something I definitely want to be.

    Good news to report though. I believe it was the gas I got - after putting in a fuel injection cleaner and some high octane gas, the engine light went off on it's own!!!

    Thank goodness!!!! My next step was to drive to Autozone to have them hook for the scanner - thankfully, the van behaved itself....
  • jferrantellijferrantelli Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I have a 1998 AWD AstroVan just turned 107,000 miles. Major tune up done motor runs great. I get in the van the other day with my wife and I hear a tractor like whining from the front end at 10-40 mph. goes away at highway speeds. I rotated the tires fron to back but the noise is still there.
    I topped off the front diff which seemed to have a pinion leak it took 3/4 quart of hypoid. Noise is still there. It sounds like a wheel bearing, but there is no change in sound when turning the wheel side to side. Most wheel bearings get louder / lower when turning the wheel while driving. This is driving me nuts, you can hear and feel the vibration on the wheel, but don't know how to find it.

    Thanks,

    Joe from NY
  • adickensonadickenson Member Posts: 1
    we have a 95 Safari, the upper door will not latch when lowered, the lower 2 doors however do latch and lock.Help, Art
  • astrocaddyastrocaddy Member Posts: 1
    YES!! I have indeed had, and fixed this problem on the CHEAP.

    I tried to get answers from the dealer snd got the run around. Well since I am a Car audio installer BY trade for 18 years I took out the A/C Controls and found the HIGH output on the back of the switch does nothing more than send 12volts direct to the FAN MOTOR under the hood, I BELIVE this wire here is PURPLE as well... FYI the other speeds do the same, but send different voltages through resistors to the same PURPLE wire at the MOTOR under the hood passenger side...

    SO I took the HIGH output from the switch, ran a wire to under the hood where I put it into pole 85 of a standard SPDT relay ( you can get at auto zone ) I then grounded the pole 86, and put FUSED 12volts direct from the BATTERY into Pole 30 and connected POLE 87 to the purple wire - BE SURE TO USE AT LEAST 12G WIRE ON THE 12V, AND PURPLE WIRE OUTPUTS FROM THE RELAY. DO NOT USE POLE 87A and be sure to tap off.

    Not only will this fix your problem, but your FAN will actually BLOW harder than ever before as you are sending a stronger source of 12volts to it rather than sending 12volts that has gone though the entire electrical system first. This set up does not affect any of the rest of the AC system in anyway.

    I assume there is a HIGH SPEED FAN RELAY somewhere...But it did not seem to be getting the signal to send voltage to the motor, SO I assumed there had to be a fusable link or other break in the signal wire from the A/C Switch...

    HOPE it helps...

    Ken
  • richly917richly917 Member Posts: 4
    My 2000 Astro has had vibration above 65-70 and the dealer can't find it.
    I replaced tires, wheels, front drive shaft, and dealer looked at everything.
    But the vibration persists. I am interested in your comments about the front wheel bearings correcting a high speed vibration problem.
    Thanks,
    Richard R.
  • egillettegillett Member Posts: 14
    Rich,
    I'm sure the dealer has tried rotating the tires in addition to "spin" balancing each one. Spin balancing is the only way to rule out the tires as a cause of the problem.

    Good luck,
    Ed
  • egillettegillett Member Posts: 14
    If the window works from the drivers side, check the wireing from the r-switch.
  • ranger44ranger44 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 astro rear wheel drive 4.3L (262) EFI V6 engine .I want to get some lowering springs and the have 2 sets listed for my year 1 set says fits TBI other CPI.Which one do I need? Many Thanks!
  • dang3dang3 Member Posts: 5
    I ended up gluing a block to the door wide enough for the rod to not be able to slip off hte arm. The 2003's don't have a clip, just a hole with very slight interference. Since I glued the block in place, I have not had another problem.
    Dan
  • dang3dang3 Member Posts: 5
    My 2003 had a sheared retaining bolt and metal debris ruined one of the bearings inside the differential. cost was $700 to fix. I thought it was a wheel bearing, but was wrong. If you are going 45 MPH and swing the wheel left to right and back again, and hear no pitch change, it is more than likely a differential problem
  • astroawdastroawd Member Posts: 2
    Put a stethoscope to the differential and transfer case. Make sure you use the proper fluid GM "Action Trac' in the transfer case.
  • astroawdastroawd Member Posts: 2
    91 Astro AWD EXT with 163,000. Rebuilt: frt diff, transfer case w/GM updates/upgrades, trans, new drive lines, new front end steering rods, etc. Pretty much alleviated the initial rumble vibration. Now months later have a vibe that shakes vehicle @35 to 49 mph on acceleration only - trans axle CV joint? transfer case? universal joints? It is amazing that GM mechanics cannot figure these kinds of problems out at $80 to $90 per hour. Someone out there have the same vibration experience?
  • shoretyusshoretyus Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98 safari AWD 167 Km's
    Coil plugs wires changed in April. Two weeks ago it developed and miss ( really noticeable at low idle.

    Mechanic scanned codes and it showed intermitant missfire on cylinder #5. He replaced wire and plug and it ran ok for him.
    Our first long trip of 1 1/2 or so it started to miss again.

    It cleared up but the engine light came on.

    Mechanic checked codes and it showed nothing. Reset light.
    It short hauled all week with no problems.
    The problem came again this weekend on an hour trip one. It kind of cleared up on the way home and was fine this morning.

    A search of the archives suggested stuck poppet valve in injections system.
    Any other ideas to look for. Hard to start looking if the problem this elusive.

    Thanks
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    Have you checked distributor cap for cracks or rotor issue? Most misfire issues have been coil related but you already replaced that part.
  • shoretyusshoretyus Member Posts: 4
    new distributor to.
  • dlralphdlralph Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 GMC Safari van that the window part of the dutch doors has stopped releasing so I cannot open the back doors. I have removed the two interior side panels, but can find nothing that will let me get to the latch on the driver side which is not releasing. Any advice??? Thanks, David
  • armyanglearmyangle Member Posts: 2
    hi i had the same problem and i changed the drive shaft and it quit the viberation
  • armyanglearmyangle Member Posts: 2
    what do you mean transmition problems i have a 2003 chevy asto and had problem after problem with it and the only way i can get out of this 13thousand dollar van is if the transmition goes
  • mechonemechone Member Posts: 4
    I have a wrecked 96 GMC Safari passanger van and a 2000 GMC Safari Work van. My work van rear hatch does not have a release botton. I tried to take the botton off the dash of the 96 van but there are no wires on the 2000 van to connect it to... any ideals?

    The actuator is on the hatch door and seems to work fine when I hook it to the 96 van. Where is the botton on the 2000 van?
  • lslllsll Member Posts: 18
    Look inside the right door panel and pull up on the rod. I had this problem also. Did you try the lock on the right door? if your key will not go in or turn then pull up on the rod. When you get the top open, do not open the left side. The handle and the bottom piece has to be changed. Just make sure the left door is all the way forward. You should be able to use the top window and the right door only. hope this works.
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