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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • jkhinchjkhinch Member Posts: 2
    Richard - did you ever find the solution to your vibration? I am having a similar problem right now and don't have the $$$$ to throw into the wind! Josh
  • cry_sscry_ss Member Posts: 1
    :sick: DESPERATELY NEED SERVICE MANUAL FOR CHEVROLET ASTRO 97.CAN ANYONE POST A LINK OR SOMETHING?MAIL ME PLEASE cry_ss@yahoo.com.
    THANX AND BEST REGARDS !!!
  • bendokbendok Member Posts: 2
  • bendokbendok Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone replaced rear wheel bearings in a 97 safari.
    2 wd.
    What lubricant is used.
  • wmccrearywmccreary Member Posts: 10
    Hi I have a 2000 Safari that is draining me dry in maint. cost with all the stuff that it eats (brakes,tires,rotors,and fuel pumps) now I think the fuel pump is out again. This will be the 7th fuel pump I still have to do a pressure check but it acts like all the others only starts on hot days and it has to crank ANYBODY KNOWS WHY IT EATS FUEL PUMPS? I have a Sonoma that uses the same pump and I only have had to replaced it once in 12 years. This van is probadly the worst money draining car I had ever had. ALSO WHERE IS THE PRESURE REG. AT THANKS WILL
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    .

    Here's a few things to consider for your Astro/Safari van.

    - Astro/Safaris are known for blowing fuel pumps. To reduce fuel pump stress, its recommended to keep more then 1/4 fuel in its tank. Above 50% full is even better.
    * If the fuel pump blows in my current Safari, I would probably investigate the new Electric Fuel pump replacements. The same racing vehicle fuel pumps they use when converting a old technology Carb Engine into a new EFI intake system. Simply install new line (in and return), install a new fuel pump and if needed, seal the tanks existing hose intake system. Some time would be needed for hose install customization but from a while board perspective, it should work.

    - Astros/Safaris have "general grade" rear ends. If you tow or haul more then 50% of its rated pulling power (or is an agressive driver off the lights), use Symthetic oils in its rear end. During its next oil engine change, I'd install synthetic in its rear axle anyway (even if not over stressing its rear end). Thus, helping its rear end last longer.

    - Astros/Safaris have "general grade" tranmissions. As a suggestion, install an LPD Aux tranny cooler. Especially if you do hauling and/or towing more then 1,500 lbs with your van. LPD aux cooler size is matched to the MAX trailer load (including trailer weight) of the item you could pull. If wondering, LPD tranny coolers allow faster "warm up" and faster "cool downs" - compared to other designs of tranny coolers.

    - Yes. The brakes on the Astro/Safari brand are poor. Poor compared to many cars / cross-overs and larger vehicles on today's road. Probably explains why GM introduced rear disc brakes in the 2005 models. When buying replacement brake pads, ensure the brake pads are HD / Racing grade quality. Uknown to some, there's low, average and high quality brake pads on the market. For the Astro/Safari model, always go with High Quality brake pad replacements. This helps. Works for my Safari van.

    - If you pull a trailer, even a 1,000+ lbs trailer, ensure the trailer has its own brakes. I installed full electric bakes on my utility trailer (with brake controller in my Safari van) and braking distance was dramatically reduced. Like 1/3 off its average braking distance. Its distance was not as good as our previous Sunfire sports car but dramatic braking improvement - compred to same trailer without brakes. To me, any trailer over 1,000 lbs behind the Astro/Safari van must have its own trailer brakes. Full electric trailer brakes are the best.

    - Ensure HD shocks are installed on the front of your Safari/Astro van. During hard braking stops, the front of the van does an immediate now dive. If wondering, factory shocks do NOT last very long. With HD shocks (like Monroe's best model or Blistien "which are even better") dramatically eliminate front end dives. This helps the front brakes last much longer. Especically if hauling / pulling with your van. Installing HD shocks reduce front steering parts from wearing out "too fast" as well. Especially for its steering / idler arms - that are very expensive to replace.

    - Stock tires reduce brake wear as well. Some folks install larger size rubber (like 225s or 235s) for more winter traction or "mud playing" but due to their extra weight, the van's brakes wear out much faster. If you can, only use recommended Stock Size Rubber for your specific van. Some use 205, some use 225, some use 70 series and some use 75 series. If 75 series, and you haul/tow heavy items, reducing rubber size down to 70 series is a good them. Light tire and better on MPGs - when towing / hauling things.

    Hope these upgrade (better then factory) items helps as well....

    .
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    Oils to use are:

    Differential Oil - Mobil 1 75W90 (Synthetic Gear Oil)
    Transfer Case Oil - AutoTrak II, GM 12378508

    Hope this helps....

    .
  • wmccrearywmccreary Member Posts: 10
    Thanks Spike99 for the advise and I have been using racing brakes since I have been doing the brakes myself and they have a lifetime warranty on them ( boy are they losing money) I have change them allready 4 times ! Thanks for your time
  • flintlockdaveflintlockdave Member Posts: 7
    Bought a new one but the parts store couldn't tell me where it is. Found four that all look a like, two inside and two under-the-hood.

    The blow has all speeds except high, any idea which relay to replace?

    It's about a one inch square with five prongs.
  • cdngordcdngord Member Posts: 1
    The fuel pump on my 2000 GMC Safari is acting up. When looking for a replacement part, should I get the pump assembly with wiring harness or without? :confuse: Any other parts necessary to replace the pump assembly? Is it best to use a Delphi replacement part and not some other brand?
  • tkwtkw Member Posts: 29
    I bought a new set of Michelin LTX P215/75R15 for my '98 Safari AWD last month. The van is now floating excessively on highway. I have had the steering and tie- rods checked out and lubed but didn't help. I just noticed the driver side front wheel is rubbing against the wheel well in low speed full left turn. I suspect the torsion bar front spring might have sagged and needed adjustment. However, my mechanic told me that he haven't seen one that needed done even though it's adjustable.

    Is the floating a result of sagging spring? Or are these two problem related at all?
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    .

    Torsion bars and leaf springs on the AWD Safari van are "steel based". And being steel, they will loose their static support load and elastistic return ability over time. In other words, these steel parts do wear out and over time, one's AWD does sit lower each year. Not much each lower per year but over a 9+ year period, one's van may sag 1 - 1.5" (which some say isn't very much).

    For my "used" 2001 Safari AWD, I figure its front was sagged 1" and 1.5" in its rear. To check for sag, crawl under the front of your van and look at its front drive axles - going into each front hub. To reduce bearing / seals wear, these front axles should be straight across or better yet, on a slight downward slope to its outer hub. When hitting a normal bump, the front drive axles become level. For my used van, the front drive axle was on its opposite slope. And when its front hit a bump, its axles had even more downward to outer hub slope. Talk about improperly aligned front axles. Thus, the main reason why I raised the front of my van 1.5". And its rear was raised 2". Now, the "stance" and wheel clearance on my AWD van looks and feels great - even with its factory recommended "P215/75R15" tires.

    For pictures of my lifted 2001 Safari AWD van, surf:
    http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Safari%20Van/VanStance-- afterSuspensionupgrade.jpg
    http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Safari%20Van/FrontTorsi- on-Adjustmentarea.jpg

    Also.... Not all "rubber" on tires has the exact same diameter. Your brand new "LTX P215/75R15" tires may have 1/4" more tread thickness then a different brand of P215/75R15 tire. Add 1/4" higher with "natural sag" from steel based suspension parts and and yes, your new tires "can" rub. Sad to say but true...

    When the existing P215/75R15 tires on my 2001 Safari AWD need to be replaced, I plan to replace with LTX P215/70R15 tires. Yes. smaller 70 series instead of its recommended 75 (taller) tires. Smaller tires means less stress on its braking parts (due to less weight from its spinning wheel to stop), better MPG on the fast hiways (especially on hills at hiways speeds) and being less rubber from rim to outer edge, there's LESS roll on the corners. Some folks like to install LT tires (that are great for towing heavy loads) but for my 98% passenger van, the "P215/70R15" size replacement would be much better. If wondering, my one buddy put LTX P215/70R15 on his 2WD Safari van and today, he swears that he'd never go back to factory recommended "LTX P215/75R15" again.

    BTW: One can "turn up" their torsion bars to gain 1"-1.5" more height in the front. And, one can also install a +1 leaf to gain 1.75"-2.0" in the rear (like I did). Add some HD shocks (like Blinstiens or Rancho 9000 series) and your van can easily take your new "LTX P215/75R15" replacement tires. If you feel your van pulls like an "old dog" and struggles too much with its existing axle gearing, then going with LTX P215/70R15 (smaller 70 series sizing) would be much better.

    Hope this helps as well..

    .
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    .

    Forgot to mention....

    To determine Tire Size measurements and differences of going to different tire size, plug your tire numbers into:

    http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

    Going from P215/75R15 to P215/70R15 is 3.1% off-set at 60 MPH. One's speedo will show 60 MPH but real ground speed is 58 MPH. That's ok because most folks drive 65 mph on a 60 zone anyway. More importantly, less weight tire and slightly more higher rpm on its engine. Thus, less "struggling" on the fast hiways - especially on the hills and/or with more then 2 people in the van. To me, AWDs have too tall of OD gear and in 3rd gear, it demands too much gas - due to its engine RPMs being too high.

    Hope this helps as well...

    .
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    I have the XC LT4'S on my Astro and have had no problems at all with the clearance and mine are the 235/70/15'S. I think your right something is has to be sagging in your suspension for those tires to not fit properly. I would think that's the smallest tire they require on that vehicle, any smaller would probally be dangerous I believe.
    DLM1
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    If one enters 235-70R-15 and 225-75R-15 numbers into http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html , one will notice their outer diamater size is almost exactly the same. Actually, the 235-70R-15 is .3 inch "smaller" - when compared to 225-75R-15 rubber. Smaller ratio of height but wider tread.

    The less middle number, the less ratio of rubber from rim to outer thread. 70 is shorter ration then 75. The 205, 225 and 235 is the width of the thread. If I remember correctly, my previous '95 van had 205-75r-15 (yes, 205s). Thus, skinny but tall rubber. Not too sure if I'd put 205-70R on a AWD but 225-70-15 works great for my buddy's Astro AWD. With its factory 3.43 gearing, the 70 series tires makes his van struggle less on the fast hiways. And especially when pulling his PUP trailer up hills. And with less ration of rubber, less "outward body rolling" on the sharp corners.

    If you want to keep the 225-75R-15 tires, I'd seriously look at maybe lifting the front 1" (via torsion bar adjustments) and installing Blistien shocks. Thus, removing "natural over time" front and rear sag. I hear Blistien shocks on the Astro/Safari van work great. And if you feel its rear suspension needs more "static load support", I'd install Timbrens on its rear. If wondering, I have Timbrens on the rear of my 2001 Safari AWD. They work great.

    Hope this helps as well...

    .
  • tkwtkw Member Posts: 29
    Thank you all for your replies! Here's the update:

    The scraping of the left wheel was actually caused by a piece of loose rubber skirting. My mechanic re-attached it with some SS screws and problem solved.

    I will try a wheel alignment to tackle the floating.
  • shift_grindshift_grind Member Posts: 1
    Please do not tell people that switching from a 21/5/75/15 to a 215/70/15 tire will give them better gas mileage because the tire wieghs less.

    your gas mileage would go down slightly, because at the same speed you'd be at a higher RPM...
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    Sorry you feel that way.

    My buddy has a 2000 AWD Astro with 3.42 factory gears (whis is default for many AWD version of the Astor/Safari models). He dumped his factory 75 series tires and went with 70 series replacement. Lighter weight tire, slightly more RPMs but more importantly, his van "lugs less". Because his van lugs less, he doesn't have to press "as hard" on the gas peddle. Thus, he saves gas. Yes. Saves gas because is van "struggles under stress" much less. From a laws of physics perspective, there's a difference a difference in "energy consumption" when it comes to gears and body weight. My buddiy's AWD van "lugs less" with smaller diameter (more RPM rotating) tires. Yes, if he went on 12" rims, his tires would litterly spin off their hubs. And, gas consumption would be horrible. But as my buddy says, the 70 series tires "saves him more MPG" - due to less lugging on the hiways and up the wills. Especially when fighting a head wind at the same time. Almost list someone installed between his current 3.42 gearing and mixed 3,73 gearing. For more details, surf contents of: http://astrosafari.org/axleinfo.htm

    OK - sill don't believe me??? Take a 10 speed and put into 5th gear and try to peddle away from a stop possible. Is it hard "lugging"? Take the same bike and put into 3rd gear? Now, take off from a stop position? Is it easier? Does your legs burn less energy from "too much lugging"? Putting in 1st gear would be even easier on take off but above 5 mph, one's legs would be spinning too fast. Thus, burning too much energy.

    Many times, I wish the Astro/Safari had a gear between their "too tall" of OD and their 3rd gear. 3rd is too much spinning and OD is "too much" lugging. When NOT towing a trailer and smaller 70 series tires, it would be like using a 3 - 3/5 transmission gear (if that was possible). NOT logging like its OD bear but NOT over RPMing like its 3rd gear.

    Something to think about...

    -----------

    Forgot to mention....

    The 2wd at 3.42 gearing works ok with 75 series tires. Using 3.73 gearing is recommended for mild towing or folks in live in semi-hills conditions.

    The AWD version (which is by default already 500 lbs extra weight then its RWD version) is terrible with 3.42 and 75 series rubber. Add mild internal cargo or even a light utility trailer and it immediedtly crawls to its knees. To me, all AWDs should have been built with 3.73 gearing (for non-towing) and 4.11 gearing for towing. And, to me, their OD gear needs to be trimmed down 1/3. Their OD gear has always been "too tall" of transmission gear for hills, winds and flat front wind wall design of the Astro/Safari models.

    RWD Astro/Safaris are "ok" with 4.42 gears (yes, I drove two of them for years) whle under empty loads. Not the best but with 3.73 gears, their "general balance" gearing for best MPG is better. AWD version has too tall of transmission gear and too tall of 4.42 axle gears. How to lower their gearing without killing the wallet, go with a 70 series tires. As explained above. If you have a AWD version and don't like its "lugness or terrible MPGs", seriously look at 70 series tires. Much less expensive then expensive gearing changes...

    .
  • harryevanharryevan Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a used 2000 Astro with AWD. The Service AWD light comes on intermittently, and I haven't figured out whether its when the AWD engages or disengages, or if it's something else. I checked the transfer case fluid last night on a level floor after a light wash underneath - it may not be the original, it has a tag from New Process Gear in Syracuse, NY screwed to the casing - it's overfull (could this be a problem?) as the check plug began to leak when I got it halfway out. The fluid is blue, like its supposed to be. The light didn't come on for the 20 mile drive today. I'm wondering if I shouldn't let the fluid drain down to the level of the check plug?

    Anyone have an idea about adding a light that would show when the AWD is engaged?

    Harry Evan :D:D
  • n977lln977ll Member Posts: 4
    I have a 99 Chev astro With 90k miles.On December 1st there was light snow and ice on the road and I was coming towards an intersection at very slow speeds when the va
    n slipped on the ice and went out of control . I nearly missed a car in the intersection, and skidded around until I crashed into a chain link fence on a lawn in front of a house. Thank heavens I am OK and no one was on the sidewalk, but I got the scare of my life.I noticed that when I braked the pedal was pulsating and spongy, and there was a humming noise with a tapping sound. I immediatley suspected the ABS so my mechanic couldnt find anything wrong. He disconnected the ABS Fuse.Since then the brakes work well, but I wanted the ABS to kick in in case of snow.I reconnected the ABS Fuse and the Humming and tapping and spongy brakes have returned intermittetly even on Dry surfaces. I am afraid to run it in Ice and rain now.Any help on this out there?This fourum has helped me.I had a hard shift on 1-2 gears.A tranny code came up , and I read here that the Valve Body had to be drilled out, I had that done and now shifts OK
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    These Astros have always had ABS problems, I pull a boat with mine and have had some scary situations trying to stop it. I started using carbon metalics on the front and it cured the problem. Their a little more expensive but worth it which you will find out if you switch over to them. GOOD LUCK DLM1954
  • mathusalummathusalum Member Posts: 5
    Okay, I've got a 99 Astro All Wheel Drive and had a diagnostics ran on it by GM. The "Service All Wheel Drive" light would come on and off at times. During those times I wouldn't have any power on the front wheels. GM Indicated that I needed a Transfer case Motor and it would cost about $ 700.00. Needless to say, I paid for the Diagnostics and went home. Since the week before, the Fuel Pump went out and they told me it would cost about $ 700.00 for that, I ended up buying one on e-bay for a $ 100 bucks and had the local alley mechanic install it for another $ 80.00. Anyway, my question is how much trouble is it to install this "Motor"? Where is it? Do I have to pul the transfer case? Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks :confuse:
  • mathusalummathusalum Member Posts: 5
    I had the same problem (See my post) and had a diagnostics done by GM. Needless to say they wanted an arm and a leg to replace what they said was a faulty Transfer case motor. That would be $ 700.00 with labor. Since they tried to fleece me on a fuel pump, I went to e-bay and got a Transfer case Motor for a $ 100.00 and will install it myself. Before going that far though, make sure the wiring plug to the transfer case is not loose or corroded. I understand that 80% of the time, thats the problem.
    Good Luck!
  • mauialiimauialii Member Posts: 2
    looking at a van with the towing package.what all does this package consist of?does it have a trans. cooler?is it worth the extra cash?thanks
  • jkhinchjkhinch Member Posts: 2
    Hello - Wow, sounds like my van - accept I haven't visited a dealer and I've been fighting a horrid vibration as well. Regarding the awd actuator, my tech tells me that he's had horrible results with after market units. However, I found these guys http://monsterautoparts.com/GMC/GMC%20SAFARI/gmc_safari_awd_4x4_actuator_motor.h- tm - they have a full year warranty and I've been thinking of trying them myself. My mechanic would charge $60 labor to install it. May want to think of talking with your alley mechanic.

    PS. I would really appreciate it if you'd let me know what the transfer case oil looked like. Apparently mine looks and smells like gear lube and we're trying to find syptoms vs causes with mine.
    Good luck.
  • wmccrearywmccreary Member Posts: 10
    My sarafi won't start mwhen the wheather is cold when its hot above 70 its starts right up I was tood it could be the fuel pump and I thought so to this will be the 7th so I replaced it. Its been warm so it finnaly got into the high 30's so I tried to start it and it wouldn't many body got any Ideals? Thanks
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    Sounds like maybe a fuel pump relay, some Hondas and accuras are notorious for this exact problem in reverse, they start when it's cold and when it gets hot they won't start because the main fuel pump relay on those are inside the vehicle unlike that Astro which is on the outside. Besides that some years of those Astros are notorious for fuel pumps. My nephew has a 1997 or 1999 and he has replaced the fuel pump so many times he has lost count; and the one for his is around $450.00 I believe he said, and thats just the pump. I believe he has a venting problem on his though because his won't run when it's hot unless he losens or removes the fuel cap. I keep telling him to go through his emission control system that vents the fuel tank because he seems to be creating so much vacuum from a vent valve not opening properly to vent the tank it's frying the fuel pumps. GOOD LUCK
  • flintlockdaveflintlockdave Member Posts: 7
    Have you tried changing the catalictic convert?
    Not sure of the cost might get one from a savage yard first to see if it helps.
  • kntheboyskntheboys Member Posts: 5
    Hi--
    I've read all the questions and responses about the rear door handle breaking and figured out through those posts how to get at the handle mechanism and open the door from the inside by pulling a rod.

    I think before the handle mechanism came apart perhaps something else had been apart because there was another part laying the in the bottom --about 6" long part that looks like it somehow works with the door mechanism. With the door open, I can push on the locking hook to make it simulate latching on the other door when shut, and I can pull the metal rod to make it release, but I don't know how to reconnect the whole thing to the handle?

    I don't know what attaches to what? I could take a digital photo and post is somewhere if that would help. Or is there somewhere I can go to see a shematic of some sort to figure out what goes together or what I may need to jimmy --rig?

    Thanks! :confuse:
  • wmccrearywmccreary Member Posts: 10
    Thanks dlm1954 after taking it to a mechanic and is addvice is to start tearing it down to find the problem after paying $75 dollares for nothing I started checking things myself after pulling the engine cover it took less than 2 minutes tom find the real problem its the rotor breaking down I have put 300 miles on it since in the last 2 weeks and its been great has never run better I didnt think it could be that because I just replaced it about 30,000 miles ago Thanks
  • wmccrearywmccreary Member Posts: 10
    My overhead display went about 1 year ago and I am going to sell this van soon so I was going to try to repair this so everything works anybody have any cues. I have 12 volts going up there on one pin and my book shows nothing about this console.
    Thanks Will
  • redfisherredfisher Member Posts: 6
    To find the gear ratio in your van check the rpo sticker( on my van its inside the passenger door) some vans have it in the glove box....anyways the sticker will have a whole bunch of codes on it,Look for the G codes my van has the codes G80 and GU6....G80 tells me i have a posi trac rear end and the GU6 is 3.42 gears. if you have Gu5 they are 3.23 and GT4 is 3.73
  • egillettegillett Member Posts: 14
    If the Chevy Dealer is of no help to you, let him know that you will make sure everyone you talk with hear about the "great service". I would also contact GM direct at their customer care center. They love to hear about things like this.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    My current 2001 AWD Safari van has lived its life. After having 2 + Safaris and been driving 3 of them at work, don't want another Safari/Astro van again. Time to move onto something different. A vehicle replacement for 2 adults +3 kids, something that gets better MPGs, something thats easier to park between the parking lines. Targeting for 2 WD with 2+1 "removable" rows of seats. 3rd row with 1 removable seat would be perfect. Hopefully, something that can tow more then 3,000 lbs. FWD is ok but if given a choice, I'd like to stay with RWD - for my towing needs. From your perspective, what's a good Safari/Astro "van like" replacement?

    thanks.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    Many thanks for your in-depth and knowledable feedback. Currently, I have my eye's on the neighbours "Saturn Outlook and Buick Enclave" vehicles. They give positive feedback on their utility trailer, ATV trailer towing ability.. Might take their brand and a few other vehicles you mentioned for a test drive. Hopefully, their long term mechanicial reliability is high. This is important to me as well.

    thanks again for taking the extra time to provide indepth feedback.

    .
  • redfisherredfisher Member Posts: 6
    When my 2003 Safari has that problem i steal a scrub pad from the wife and clean the two brass contacts that are spring mounted on the door jam. They turn green and do not let enough voltage threw to the lock.Also clean the ones on the door aswell....and check to see if the ones on the door jam have good springs to make contact.
  • campdraftycampdrafty Member Posts: 10
    I own a 2001 astro. want to get a 2006 or 2007 van. Can't seem to find one as good as the astro. Very disappointed in the vans out there now, looked at the Uplander, but was disappointed. any suggestions. My astro is in very good condition with 94000 miles. Probably should keep it, was offered $4000 for it.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    Within the Astro/Safari section, I asked the same question. re: What vehicle can replace my existing Safari van? TheBigAl reponded with a few suggested vehicles. For details, surf BigAls reply (at bottom page) within: dlm1954, "GMC Safari/Chevy Astro" #1683, 26 Dec 2007 2:46 pm

    Used Astro/Safari vans in my area are selling between $3K - $6K (depending on shape and miles) as well. Expect low value if trading your van in.

    If you are happy with your Astro/Safari and it isn't costing you too much on repairs or weekly gas (dollar value) consumption, then perhaps keeping it is a wise choice. (for your needs). In the end, my wife & I decided to keep our current Safari van. Mainly because it sits in my driveway 6 days / week. We only use our van for weekend "2 hour drive long haul and odd utility trailer pulling". For us, replacing with new or slightly used vehicle is a waste of dollars.

    Definately worth surfing the Safari forum and reading TheBiglAls reply - to my same question.

    Hope this helps....

    .
  • campdraftycampdrafty Member Posts: 10
  • gooddog1gooddog1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a1998 astro van.
    The fan works fine at all speeds and temperatures.... however, I can only get airflow to the defrost on top of dash.... no flow to feet vents or dash vents, no matter what setting the know is at ????
    thanks in advance
  • n5445n5445 Member Posts: 28
    If Im not mistaken its the vacuum line that runs through the engine compartment.
    I know ive seen this problem on here before, so just do a search and the answer is in here somewhere.
  • bizzbangbizzbang Member Posts: 5
    I’ve had the problem and so did my brother. The heating system is designed to fail in the defrost mode. The problem is vacuum line runs through the engine compartment and over time it cooks and the rubber gets brittle and brakes. The line runs form the vacuum intake on the left rear of the engine to front right were it connects to a set of hoses and a vacuum storage sphere. It is about the size of a softball underneath the windshield washer reservoir. You will have to replace the vacuum line front to back. The part cost about $20.00 but the shop wants 2.0 hours to replace it about $150.00 in total. Get the vacuum line, (dealer only) Remove the engine cover form the inside, find a similar connector on the vacuum (driver side of the engine) intake and trace the hose to the front, you will find it near the top passenger side area with a few hoses linked together. Make sure when you run the new hose that it does not rest on the intake manifold so it does not cook again.

    Good luck
  • pistandbrokepistandbroke Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 GMC Safari that lost oil pressure on the burlington skyway bridge in ontario (probably the worst place in Ontario to break down!) I knew it was bad news, but getting rear ended is worse. I tried to make it to the top so I could coast down to safety, all the while watching the temperature gauge which stayed around 60C. Before I reached the peak I could hear the engine getting louder,and then there was a loud popping sound followed by a burning smell. I got towed home and filled the oil back up the next day. It started up but had a definate knocking/grinding type sound, but remained running. The oil spewed out all over the ground from the back part of the engine on the driver's side of course. The van's worth about $2000 but more to me as I've replaced a bunch of things over the years. Is this fixable? Did I blow a rod? Is it worth getting towed to a garage and spending a few hundred bucks to find out what's wrong? Or will they just tell me it's toast. It's still in pretty good shape overall. It sound expensive. Any advice would be appreciated.
  • ziemann1ziemann1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a 1999 astro. The running lights and low beam headlights just stopped working suddenly. The high beam headlights work fine. This seemed to happen right after my wife had to call a wrecker for a jumpstart. There is no voltage going to the low beam headlights. I replaced the headlight switch with one from a junkyard. That didn't change anything. Any ideas? Thanks, MZ
  • awdastrojunkawdastrojunk Member Posts: 5
    First to "thebigirl" two years ago I had a choice to either put in a NEW or a Junkyard engine or scrap my van and buy a new one.....MOTOR died big time on me from a problem which many chevy owners faced with this years motor......since a good structurally, nice interiored van with NO working engine is basically worthless.....I bought a NEW Jasper Complete engine which came with a 3yr/75,000 mile warranty as opposed to a junkyard 30 day warranty. Now Jasper has 3yr/100,000 mile warranty. It cost me approx. $6k, a bit more since I had to fix a tranny problem while the engine was out. IT SURE BEATS MONTHLY PAYMENTS AND SALES AND EXCISE TAX FOR A NEW VEHICLE OR FOR THAT MATTER A DECENT USED VEHICLE. If you know your van, why not fix it.....?

    NOW MY PROBLEM...........

    My '95 was "Built Like a Rock", but my 2000 was built like a "Pebble".....! Biggest piece of CRAP I have ever owned is this 2000 Astro.....!

    Heres my PROBLEM.......Intermittent starting problems, It is NOT the Cap or Wires or Rotor. Have NEW Alternator, NEW Battery, not the Key switch, all lights do what they are supposed to on Dash.

    It is like the OLD FORDS, when the starter solenoid would start to go it would click, click, click, on those you could jump the solenoid. Volts/Amps ok with Battery, No offense to woman, but this thing in the past four weeks has only turned on and started when it wants too......!

    I have checked all wires I can find in van for any shorts, checked positive wire from battery to starter solenoid, checked fuses, UNSURE how or if starter RELAY's can be checked....? I do have a mechanical background, the only thing is when I was employed as a mechanic it was the days I could sit in an old lady's 4dr chevy 327's engine compartment and take off intake, headers, heads etc......!

    I have had it in to have the codes checked, a battery load test, as well as Alternator/Stator output, diodes etc, etc..

    I had a conversation with mechanic that swapped engine couple years ago, he thought it sounded like slush got into starter during a wet, warm slushy day because my son takes it to school and the first time it occurred was a day like this, then it got REALLY COLD and when he got out of school it was well below freezing, he tried and tried, we ended up towing(with straps). It sat in my garage overnight and the next morning it started. It went almost two weeks, then it happened after speaking a mechanic friend who said to me try and recreate it, I had no idea how I did it but I did then could NOT find the reason as to why or how.

    Checked the volts/amps in battery ok, chk'd volts from Positive of solenoid, OK, a bit of a draw when trying to start with the clik, clik, clik, do not believe the volts dropped below 9.6/9.8...? give or take. It sat for a bit, then couple hours later started right up.

    Then began several days of this, it may start five times in a row, sit for awhile then not start for two days. Tried to several other tests, but unable.

    Had apt. to get it on a lift to look at starter and put a load on it, however like going to the dentist, first time all ok, Next time last Friday set up another time for lift and it DIED. Saturday started ok several times, then Sunday Once and today Monday.....NOTHING but clik, clik, clik

    ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEAS........? JUNK STARTER, BAD SOLENOID, BAD RELAYS, LOOSE WIRES................????????

    HELP IF ANY IS MUCH APPRECIATED........!
  • awdastrojunkawdastrojunk Member Posts: 5
    Just read about the light switch on the Astro..........Better to test things first prior to BUYING and spending time replacing items. Not meant to be sarcastic, just that you can test the switch or take it out and have local parts shop check it for you prior to buying an new or used one, takes alot of time and money to troubleshoot a problem this way. ESPECIALLY with these ASTRO VANS.........I'd take back my '95 with 135,000 miles on it in a heart beat over the LEMON ASTRO I now own......I new two weeks after buying this thing it was the biggest piece of **** I would ever own......!!
  • gooddog1gooddog1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks everyone, It was the vacuum hose,all fixed working fine.
  • n5445n5445 Member Posts: 28
    So are you saying that when the can doesnt start, the engine wont turn over at all??
    Just the click click click?
    If so, assuming you've checked the wires for corrosion from batt to starter and checked ground wires also It would lead me to check water in the oil that is freezing up the engine.
    My neighbors car had this type of problem and it was the battery cables that were corroded at the terminals. One time it would start and the next time it wouldnt.
    I took a wire brush and cleaned the cable contacts and good to go.
    My van would start intermittent, but Ive tracked that down to moisture in the ignition system. The van sits outside and at 167k miles the contacts arent what they used to be and allow moisture to get inside them.
    The fact that the van would start if you left it in the garage leads me to think moisture problem.
    When was the last oil change,coolant change??
    If the engine turns over when trying to start, I would then look at water in the fuel line.
    Overall, since it works and then doesnt work, I wouldnt go the route of replacing parts. Sounds like the parts are fine.

    1. start by checking corrosion on the starting circuit wires,+ and -.
    then check oil for moisture(sludge) then coolant(correct %),etc.
    If the engine compartment looks very "wet"(moisture) use can of moisture remover and hit all of the connectors/contacts you can reach

    This is the route I would take before spending money on parts that may not even need to be replaced.
    Or just wait till warmer weather and fix it before next winter.
  • awdastrojunkawdastrojunk Member Posts: 5
    Sorry I thought it was a funny screen name to be advertising, but I just chocked it up to the NEW World Order..:) Yes, I have been thru this thing with a fine tooth comb, I just went through the entire dash wiring tonight. I forgot how much I hate NEWER vehicles with all the plastic crap which covers the meat and potatoes of a vehicle. Even though I have had battery checked and rechecked with load tests, gonna get another try that first. I have done hours of research and on some, not all, but some Astro's if battery is off just a bit the computer and components tell the starter there is not enough juice when there is......computers! supposed to make our lives easier, but they make it worse as far as complexities go. Just another way for big corporations to sell products.

    Thanks for the help. I appreciate the response, if this does not work I am going to pop in a new starter and see what happens. If it continues you may read about me in the paper......:)
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    Check the main wiring bulkhead that plugs into the fire wall just behind the battery. This plugs directly into the back of the fuse box and I've seen it cause a lot of problems. The main ignition wire oin this pulls so much power it will melt around the plug and get a bad connection, I've seen this before on Astro's and several other kind of vehicles ,especially full power ones. The main ignition wire pulls so much power it should hve been hard wired but since these vehicles are built on an assembly line they just plug in piece by piece, easier and cheaper to build but a big problem when the plugs fails because it wasn't designed to pull that much power. DLM1954
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