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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro

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Comments

  • awdastrojunkawdastrojunk Member Posts: 5
    I finally found the problem after several weeks. I remembered today why I can't stand working on new vehicles and left the automotive mechanic biz years ago. There's NO ROOM to move anywhere..!! Even though I check the starter a few weeks ago with diagnostic equipment it pulled a fast one on me. It acted like a bad or weak battery plus a dozen other electrical/computer problems. I FINALLY got ticked off enough to pull out(the STARTER that is) and I could not believe the difference a few weeks make. It was like a sponge with all the rust on the solenoid and inside the starter. So off to the local NAPA store and sure enough my suspicions were confirmed. The (R) Terminal on the solenoid, which is the Positive terminal side was BAD!! All other tests on solenoid and armature were fine, which really makes my mind spin. A NEW Starter, put it back in, five minutes of charge time for the battery and it STARTED right up. Put it through my normal battery of tests for new equipment and no problems. So for anyone having similar problems DO NOT JUST GO BUY STUFF UNTIL YOU GO THREW A SERIES OF DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES. This problem acted like a dead battery, a starter relay, bad wires, bad connection, etc, etc, etc.. To ALL of you who responded, Thank YOU !! Thirty years ago, I would have known right where to look, NOW..? You can not even find the engine let alone the starer..!! This problem solved, OH yes......One last item for those of you who may have similar problems. Something very similar to this happened on my first day of vacation last summer just an hour and forty fie minutes into the trip. Thankfully I found a place and new how to temporarily fix the situation with a battery jump pack I carry with me, plus other tools. You learn to carry these items after owning a boat kept on the ocean, 50miles off shore there are no stations to pull into. Anyway the problem was the ALTERNATOR. So people DO NOT just go buy items until you check it out or have a Pro check it out! Me, when I can't go any further I do take it to a garage where they have the Newer updated equipment. Good luck everyone, again Thank You to ALL who left msg.....
  • sargetersargeter Member Posts: 1
    I just found this forum, so I'm brand new here.
    I'm on my 4th one - '85 Astro, '91 Astro, '96 safari, '01 Safari.
    I can't say enough good about them.
    I obviously haven't had the chance to read all the forums yet.
    I am surprised that some folks have had so many problems with them.
    I haven't had much trouble with any of them I've had.
    My current one is an '01 Safari SLT AWD with 70,000 miles on it and still going strong.
    The only problems I've ever had with it were the emergency flasher switch at about 62,000 miles and now the driver's side window motor is acting up, so I'll replace that.
    Other than that, no problems.
    I love them and wish I could buy another new one.
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    I'm the same way I've got a 1994 I bought new and haven't had many problems to speak of, but don't be fooled these ASTROS do have little idioscencreties that happen to most of them and usally its the same ones. I guess we've been lucky. DLM1954
  • astrovanastrovan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Astro and i have a similar problem. The top glass door only unlatches on one side. I was going to take it apart and see if a cable broke or something but i read your post and decided to look for this box. I found a little white relay type aparatus that plugged into the wire harness. I don't know if it comes apart or not. It looks like it is all molded in one piece. It looks fine...no black marks from arcing or anything. I am frustrated and may end up taking it to a dealer. :confuse:
    I am waiting on prices for a new part. The part # is VPRD-35F14-Z01 and it is made by Siemens. Any ideas or thoughts? I may take a stab at disassembling the door panel but it will be hard while shut like that. Thanks
  • samyerardisamyerardi Member Posts: 3
    I will be rebuilding my wife's '97 GMC Safari engine & van this spring/summer. It has sat for 5 years without running so there is a lot of things that need fixed/rebuilt, etc. The last time I looked at it with an OBD scanner it said the MAP sensor was bad. I can jump start it, but as soon as I try to move in drive it starts missing and choking and dies. I was going to try to replace it and went so far as to tear into the engine housing under the dash last year but other things came up financially and I didn't want to take a chance on a $150 replacement sensor and that not be the fix. I want to restore it now and have the funds. Can anyone suggest my next step? I have the Haynes manual for it, and I am considering getting a factory manual if necessary.

    Thanks in advance!
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    sounds more like cap and rotor problems for the stalling, map sensor could be bad but i don't think it would cause it to stall that bad.sitting for that long didn't do cap rotor and wires much good and usally big culprit in stalling. also these vans are notorious for injectors and regulator problems i have one i just redone and have seen the same problem with most of them. but if i were goig to rebuild it anyway stalling is the least of the problem. dlm1954
  • samyerardisamyerardi Member Posts: 3
    dlm,

    Thanks. That actually makes me feel a little bit better. It's been so long I can't remember what it was doing when we quit using it. Good point on the deterioration of the wires, etc. If the MAP sensor were completely dead (no output), how would you expect it to act?
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    It would stall and idle rough but most map senser codes are created from a differant problem,bad connection, vaccuum leak and so forth and it sounds to me like you have some carbon sticking your egr valve open which these vanss are notoriuos for from the bad design.My pickup which is a ford had a bad map sensor and ran fine until it hit second gear and it just flattened out no power.These Astros have serious problems with the multi port injection design which makes them run like a 350 but you really have to stay on top of them. I put new injectors,regulator, nut kit, and screen egr valve gasket in mine a few months ago and it runs better than it did when I bought it new. If you do it yourself you can save 2 to 3 grand and do it right and clean out egr ports and plenum to remove all the carbon that falls directly in the egr valve on these.I went from 13 to 14 mpg to 19 to 20 which was well worth the effort just for that.,and it has never idled or ran better.So if you plan on doing the job yourself make sure you clean plenum and egr port good more than likely that port is probally mostly if not all the way clogged up.,and use the screened gasket when putting it back together. GOOD LUCK DLM1954
  • samyerardisamyerardi Member Posts: 3
    Thanks dlm. I am going to do all the work myself (I've got two other vehicles lined up behind it waiting or me to work on them as well). Any ideas what other sorts of trouble I'll run into with it having sat so long without running?
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    If you are doing it yourself which is a very good idea, because you'll know what's been replaced and what's not you should be ok. If you plan on doing the basic tune up along with it you shouldn't have any problems, I'm disabled and I let mine sit over a year until I felt like doing it myself, but I would make sure I cleaned the plenum and egr port real good because more than likely the egr port is probably completely stopped up. The nut kit or regulator is probably the fuel leak smell, my regulator and nut kit both were leaking that's usually the culprit. The nut kit is a dealer part but the injectors can be gotten a lot cheaper at auto zone or advance auto. I would make sure and put a screened gasket back on the egr valve port this will save a lot of idle problems in the future,I used to use stainless screen before they started making those to bad I didn't trademark it. With a oil change and a few hours running time to dry out every thing where its been sitting and it'll run better than when you bought it.
  • keeshond2keeshond2 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Safari that I just had the engine and transmission rebuilt. The van sat for around a year before I got the up the energy and money to tackle this job. I have very little automotive experience but know a little. This may seem like a stupid question, but here it goes any ways.

    I have put the new motor and transmission, which almost took an act of congress to accomplish, and now I am doing the last simple adjustments to it. I have brought the number one piston TDC, but what about the distributor? Were should the rotor be at when I put the distributor in. Should the metal piece on the rotor be facing the number one spot on the distributor cap?

    The last time I tried the number one piston was TDC and when I put the distributor in the gears which meet with the cam gear made the rotor, the metal piece, face cylinder three on the distibutor cap. What am I doing wrong? I know there is a simple solution because I have always seen my Dad do this job very simply.

    Hoping someone has a suggestion.

    Thanks
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    If you removed the distributor during rebuild, bring up number one on compression stroke, it will blow you thumb off if you hold over cylinder on a compression stroke then drop distributor in on number one cylinder that way you won't get it 180 out. As far as fine tuning I believe you'll have to have it done on a computer since it's probaly got a probe tube instead of timing plate.I personally like a compound gauge better goverment controlled timing is best for fuel economy supposedly not best for running. If you get it on number one you should be able to mess with it a couple degrees at a time for good running and starting by itself. DLM1954
  • rene007rene007 Member Posts: 4
    I found a coolant leak on my 2001 Safari and I decided to chek it out. Found out it was the intake gaskets. I went ahead and took it apart to replace them and clean everything out. I used throttle body and intake cleaner on the injectors or poppets. When I put it back together, it would not start, only crank. Checked fuel pressure, had 56 psi and spark. Both present. I marked the distributor before taking it off and put it back together the same way. I also replaced the cap and rotor. I don't know what to do after this. I would appreciate some help on this issue.
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    Did you take the injectors out one at a time to make sure you put them back in the right cylinders, and if memory serves me right those injector poppets are made of plastic and and that cleaner is probaly acetone and it melts plastic. I would pull a couple plugs and make sure it's getting fuel in the cylinders,see if plugs are wet from flooding because of maybe firing problem. Unless you damaged the injectors or maybe mixed them up there's no reason that it wouldn't start from replacing gasket. I would check to make sure everything was plugged back in by regoing through what I unpluged to take it apart you might have missed a plug that keeps it from starting.I know there is a few electrical connectors that have to be disconnected to remove that plenum. GOOD LUK DLM1954
  • flintlockdaveflintlockdave Member Posts: 7
    4.3 V6, 2003 Astro, any suggestion on how to increase the mpg?
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    These 4.3 multi port vortecs get crapy milage all of them,I tried every thing to inprove mine and it wasn't until I replaced the injectors and nut kit myself to stop what was mostly fuel leaking I believe that I went from 13 to 14 to 19 to 20.When it was still under waranty I took it back time and time again over the milage and rough idle and they kept telling me that was the design. The nut kit which is the internal fuel lines under the plenum which are made of plastic with rubber o-rings start leaking fairly soon after you put a few thousand miles on them. Why their called a nut kit I have no idea, my theory the designer was a nut. After I redone mine it ran better than it did when I bought it. These vortecs run great but was a poor design because of the EGR valve problems and injector problems but they run like a 350. I've had very good luck with mine,I've pulled a bass boat all through the mountains in Tennesee with no problem whatsoever. DLM1954
  • rene007rene007 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for responding, you are the second person that suggests that it is a connector that is not plugged in, but I checked all of the connectors that I took off, I double checked and triple checked they were all plugged in. I checked the spark plugs to see if they were full of gas or at least smelled like gas and no nothing, my next step was to take the injector assembly out and plug it in to the connector and crank the engine to see if they are actually moving or clicking or at least doing something. Nothing happened, I checked power to the injetor at the connecto while cranking, and yes there is signal. My next guess was that since I cleaned the injectors by spraying that throttle body and intake cleaner at the poppets and then left the spider looking thing with the legs up over night, the carbon that dissolved went right into the injector and seized them. I am going to take a really expensive chance and replace the injectors and see what happens. Thanks for your help.
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    I think I would check the injectors to, because most of those cleaners are fine for throttle body injectors but they have a metal jacket around them and I know those multi port poppets are made of plastic.there's actually not much to an injector in the first place it's just a solinoid type unit.,that opens and shuts with electrical current but I'm like you they probaly seized from the cleaner. dlm1954
  • keeshond2keeshond2 Member Posts: 4
    I finally got the van running. It turns out that my 2000 Safari has two timing marks on the timing cover, 90 degrees apart. When both timing marks on the harmonic balancer and the the timing marks on the cover line up piston one is TDC. The interest part was the distributor. There is an arrow on the distributor with a number 6, meaning six cylinder, located around 2 to 3 o'clock. The rotor has to be pointing at this mark when cylinder one is TDC. In order to make the rotor alien with this mark the rotor has to be pointing just clock wise of the hole were the bolt for the distibutor cap is located. When you drop the distributor in the gears will cause the rotor to rotate to the arrow with the 6 which is the alignment mark. I had my wife's friend who come to find out is part owner of a repair shop fax me the instructions. Runs good, have to stop one small oil leak, get it smogged, and it will be back on the road. Thanks for the help.
  • keeshond2keeshond2 Member Posts: 4
    I just finished getting my 2000 Safari running after putting in a rebuilt motor and transmission. I drove the van around the block, it runs great now, and then I put on the emergency brake. The pedal went straight to the floor. No resistance. I don't remember if the emergency brake pedal was always like this or not. The van sat in my garage for over a year. If it is a problem what could it be? I believe the van has self adjusting rear brakes, so how would you make an adjustment to the emergency brake?

    It is amazing how much difference a new motor and transmission make. The van runs good and STRONG!!! When I had the smog test done on the van it barely registered. It is nice to have a good running van that is paid for.

    If you have any advice on the emergency brake I would appreciate it.

    Thanks,

    Keeshond2
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    Sounds like a broken cable or the back brakes are so far out of ajustment the brake doesn't work. The back brakes on these Astros was always a major problem the self ajusters are useless, I always ajust mine manually every 3 to 6 months or your using the front brakes all the time. I've never had any luck trusting the self ajusters, and I have to back out of my driveway every day so if they work at all the back brakes would stay tight. DLM1954
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    Also if ajusting the rear brakes manually does'nt cure your brake problem check cable if it's not broken there should be an adjustment by the rear wheels where it y's off to the wheels. I've always had to ajust mine manually or the rear brakes didn't work and I pull a bass boat through Tennesee and it can get pretty hairy trying to stop with just front brakes working coming down one of those hills; and most astros have not all I've seen have this problem. If you don't adjust the rear brakes manually they will not work properly. GOOD LUCK DLM1954
  • keeshond2keeshond2 Member Posts: 4
    I checked the cable and all looks good, so I went to adjust the rear brakes manually. I jacked the rear end up, put the rear on jack stands, crawled under the van and there were no openings for me to get to the self adjuster. I was thinking about making my own opening. Looks like a screw driver would work pretty good. I think the cover GM used is just pop riveted in place. I think you are right about the back brakes not really doing much work. I have a 2002 camry that has over a 100K and original brakes. My Excursion has 80K with original brakes, but I go through front brakes on this Safari in about 30K.

    I also tried backing up and pumping the brakes as I go, everyone on my street thinks I am an idiot because I went almost the whole length of the street doing this and no results. So do I break out the covers to get to the adjusters or do I have to take off the wheel and drum and adjust for the inside. I don't think that makes any sense but like I said earlier, I am limited on mechanical skills.

    I would appreciate an advice.

    Thanks,

    Keeshond2
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    I usally use an air chisel to knock out the factory ajusting plugs but a screw driver would probaly work fine and I've used screw drivers several times to ajust brakes when I couldn't find my ajuster. I've got several for differant kinds of vehicals but when I need one I can't find it so sometime I'll just grab a screw driver. Just make sure you put the vehicle in neutral and turn wheel while ajusting so you don't lock it up; unajusting is alittle harder than ajusting. But other than that it's a fairly simple procedure. You can buy a pack of ajuster hole plugs at about any auto supply to keep debris from getting in the drum. You said you go through front brakes real often and like I said before these astros usally always are stopping with only the front brakes unless you keep the rear ones manually adjusted. DLM1954
  • flintlockdaveflintlockdave Member Posts: 7
    We had the shorter wheelbase 1987 version and now own an extended (which became the only size available) 2003 and I have noticed this many time. We just look at each other and say "87." Wonder if there's some way to remove or modify the steering stops to give more steering wheel travel?
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    I have the EXT- ASTRO and it seems to have have a short turning radius that I have noticed, nothing like my longbed pickup which takes a 10 acre field to turn around. Does it have oversize tires because it seems odd mine I always thought turned really short for it's size and I run 235- 70's which is the largest tire recommended for the ASTROS without having steering problems. DLM1954
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    I'll bet that's it I forgot about the the height change, that is probaly the problem with 215-70 tires I would say with 15's you would have a lot of tire clearance; but there's one of the guys on here that sells tires or something and he says there is not much differance between the 215's and 235's but I know theres a differance in an inch taller wheels. My 95 EXT ASTRO with the 235-70's turns on a dime so that must be it' the height I guess.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Check out a Chevy Express 1500 or GMC Savanna. A little larger vehicle but rear drive and AWD available. Good luck.
  • jimsudsjimsuds Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where to get the rear door lock actuator for an '88 Astro? I've tried several local auto part stores but no go. Thanks!
  • jiggs1jiggs1 Member Posts: 5
    I have changed out the transmission and now the cable that comes up to the linkage on the intake and hooks to the throttle needs to be fined tuned. A friend said he knew how and set it initially, it works after a fashion however it does not shift right. It goes through all the gears how ever it jerks in last shift and then free wheels at high speeds.
    as long as it has to work to keep up the speed all is fine,,,, however when you let off the gas ever so slight and wait , it will coast and the engine slows up. if you want to keep up the same speed when you step on it that is when the engine has to rev. up to catch up with the forward speed of the van. Got to be the adjustment. Any help would be great.. thanks to all .. Jiggs.
  • jiggs1jiggs1 Member Posts: 5
    Hey gang, I hope I haven't posted this twice, if so please forgive.
    I have just installed a transmission in my 91 Astro. It now does not shift as it should.
    it does fine until the last shift, then it is just a little bit rough, ( it kinda double shifts) that is it bumps and then gives out with a small bump and then all is well, as it picks up speed and I get up to speed limit and ease off of the throttle it goes to free wheeling, if I let off the gas it coast until I put my foot into it and the the engine races to catch up with the rest of it.. I am thinking that the cable that comes up from the right side and is hooked inside the pan is out of adjustment.. does any one know the trick???? or is it a guessing game of hit and miss???? I had a friend set it when we got it installed and he said that it may need more adjustment or playing with... Help...
    I can pull the dog house and play with it but is there a correct way to be right with out making ;a guessing game out of it... thanks for any help. jiggs.
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    Sounds like you might have installed a used tranny and it's bad to, that kinda sounds like a bad tranny, could be ajustment but I don't think so if it's working fine in the lower gears. DLM1954
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    Did you find the problem on your tranny,it sounded like the torque converter was probaly bad.DLM1
  • dano48dano48 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Astro , the latch broke with the rear doors closed. How can I get the inside door panels off when I can't get access to some of the screws that hold it on?
    Is there a way to jimmy the door open? Thanks for any help!
  • joelmichjoelmich Member Posts: 3
    Our 1999 GMC Safari that has 125,000 developed a ticking/knocking noise on the right side of the engine. I have had some people tell me that it sounds light a collapsed lifter. The runs fine except for this noise. I put in some mystery oil from and the noise is not as nocticable now but I can still hear it. Now when ever I changed the oil, if I do not put a QT of mystery oil in the crack case, the noise come back but after the mystery oil is substituted for 1 QT of engine oil, the noise dies down but you can still faintly hear it. Has anyone else had this problem and is it really a collapsed lifter?

    Joel / n4urw@earthlink.net
  • cbharobbycbharobby Member Posts: 19
    Same thing happened to me. Cheap pot metal latch. Anyway, just bust off any left on the handle until its all gone. Just the piece that moves, not the body. Look in there, and the latch is pointed at the 10-11 O'Clock position.. Doors unlocked, just screwdriver it over to the 1-2 o'clock and it will pop open. You have a 4 screw panel in the side of the door. Take that off so you can see what your doing. What I did it just drill a 1/4" hole in the latch, and ran a bolt through it sticking out the back, to lever the door open. Had to elongate the plate (drill/Dremel/whatever), to get a full swing on the bolt. Worked for years now. The lock is separate, so even like this, no one can break in. Hope this helps. Be gentle with the other latches too. Had to replace the drivers door, and a real pain. Go to a junk yard if ya want, and you will see more. Maybe pick up one now for a spare, as Astros last a long time.
  • cbharobbycbharobby Member Posts: 19
    Try a full oil change/filter. Then instead of 5 qts oil, do 4, and get a qt of Risone in there. Comes in a yellow bottle. Run it for 1000, won't hurt anything, might bust up the sludge in the lifter, which is probably whats hanging up.
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    Perhaps your GM 4.3L engine has Piston Slap? Piston Slap is common on many GM engines. Especially the 4.3.

    My 2001 Safari 4.3L has piston slap in really cold weather. Especially during its warm up phase. For more details, surf: http://www.pistonslap.com/photos.htm

    For me, I get my local auto shop to install Synthetic "5-w30" during colder weather. In the summer hotter months, use normal Synthetic 10w-30 oil. This seems to help reduce engine noise...

    Hope this helps...

    .
  • dano48dano48 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your help, but I don't now how to get to the latch, the doors won't open and some of the screws that hold on the inside panels don't appear to be accessible
    with the doors closed. what can I do?
  • cbharobbycbharobby Member Posts: 19
    I just TOLD you what to do. The latch is got to from the OUTSIDE!. Bust away the handle, its right there.
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    The best way to determine a noise is use a automotive stethoscope because a knocking noise you think may be coming from one place will actually resonate from any where,and a stethoscope is the best way to find out.The 350 chevy engine has a push rod driven fuel pump and it's hard to tell how many people that's been charged for lifter replacement that didn't help the problem because it sounds just like a lifter and it's just a worn fuel pump spring or worn push rod. DLM1
  • cbharobbycbharobby Member Posts: 19
    First, its a 4.3, V6, not a 350 V8. And had many, with never a pump rod go bad. Thing is, the fuel pump is in the tank, electric. And getting a "ear piece scope" in there is very difficult. If its a half speed always "tick", its a lifter. Piston slap will be engine speed, and a slap on the throttle, will increase it. Pretty simple. 50 years Chevy, 175000 my Astro...do what I said..Rislone...or just live with it until the cam gets "wiped", which is many years. Lose a little perfomance, but not worth any major engine work...
  • awdastrojunkawdastrojunk Member Posts: 5
    34 years in the automotive racket, I can tell you all that the BEST stethoscope which works and can been thrown at a wall, stepped on, drivin over and has multiple functions is..........: A very, very LONG Screwdriver!! Prefferably one with a synthetic plastic handle and not wood. The high impacts plastic gives a clearer and better resonance picture than wood. Again just my own opinion. I have a craftsman which is 24" and it gets almost anywhere I want. Those "Doctor" Ear type are good if you plan on giving a full physical and a " pap smear", then perhaps that may work well. But for us motor guys, I think most might agree with me that the screwdriver described is the best way to go and usually the cheapest.......!!!! You will be amazed at what you can hear and how clear it is!!
  • cbharobbycbharobby Member Posts: 19
    Yep, 35 years Tool and Die..Maintnence Machinist....50 years wrench twirling...hard to explain to the new just how stuff works...like simple crank , or cam speed, on a tick..sometimes ya wanna scream...
  • scooter25scooter25 Member Posts: 1
    If your compass needs reset, I believe it just says C when it does. You simply drive the van in a tight 360 degree circle and it should reset.
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    In the first place I was using the 350 as example not as part the problem,maybe you should learn to read before putting your big mouth in gear. DLM1
  • dlm1954dlm1954 Member Posts: 57
    Some peple don't know how to use the proper tools, yes a screwdriver will work so will a wooden and maybe you could cut off your dogs leg and use it to, but there are the right tools and the wrong ones and you don't have to use a doctors scope they make one for autos in the twenty first century some people just can't understand how to use them I guess.Personally I've diagnosed several knocks with them with no problems as with a screwdriver but sticking a six inch screwdriver down in an engine bay with the motor running sounds a little stupid when you can use the right tool with a 30 inch line, of course that's only my opinion but I still have both my ears and all my head from not using a screwdriver, wooden stick or dog leg. I'm sure your quite an automotive genious but maybe you should update your tools a little more often. DLM1
  • wlucywlucy Member Posts: 1
    just brought a 1989 chevy astro starcraft and the wiper switch is faulty,very temperamental,does anyone have one for sale or know where i can get one ,found some stockists in america but wont ship to uk!! please help ,
    cheers
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    Hi thebigal,

    Thanks for posting your exerpiences of how to replace brakes on your van. Man, you sure do have patients. And lots of it.

    For me, I do a much different approach. The high level steps are: In the morning, I drive my van to my local auto-shop, tell guy to inspect and if needed, replace the brakes. Before end of day, he calls and tells me that my van is ready for pickup. I walk to the local auto shop (which is only 15 minute walk away), pay the bill and drive my van home. Only thing I do NOT like is "paying for the work". But overall, each auto shop in my area always use the higher quality brake pads and best of all, I don't get my hands dirty. If wondering, I used to change my own previous brakes. But, had way too many experiences of slipped wrenches and skinned knuckles. Thus, I now let the full time auto mechanic brake repairs today. Luckily, the 2 auto shops in my area "are trusted", and always give reasonalbe rates.

    Thanks for posting your brake replacement experiences. I enjoyed reading your well constructed posts. Like all of your posts on this forum, I enjoyed reading them. Thank you.

    .
  • hulscherhulscher Member Posts: 3
    We have a 2001 GMC Safari and the whole entire pad from the back of the van to the front of it are SOAKED! We took a 6 hour trip this weekend to MN when we noticed we have a GREAT BIG problem! My husband has torn everything out, all of the seats, carpet and pad. Where should we start to look for the leaks? We know that the seal/weather stripping has to be replaced in the back of the van but we are wondering how could soooo much water be on the inside of the van. (granted it rained about 60% of our trip) I have read some of the similar postings but am not sure what step is next in this long process.

    P.S. I enjoy our van very much and am a little distressed about this. I have to drive my husband's pick-up :) , so any advice to speed this up would be very wonderful! :) Thank you for this site!
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