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The wiper motor Ground strap is located under the mounting leg near the hood opening at the windshield. This strap is used as the ground through the bolt and the body. Vibration will cause erosion of the metal and the strap causing bad grounding.
Thus intermittent operation. The cure is to thread the unused hole on the upper right of the wiper motor and install a Tap bolt and soldered wire clips to a good ground on the firewall. No more wiper troubles!!!!
Any help would be appreciated
Good Luck
I dont know the reason why you started with the wires before fuel pressure.
My 1998 AWD Astro did the same thing AFTER the fuel pump was replaced by a
shop. I went berserk trying to find the problem. Stalling, towing to shop, etc.
Here is the test ... Fill the van FULL of gas to the top. Drive it around. I guaranty
you don't stall or sputter unitil you get under half a tank or less of fuel. Try this and let me know. My problem was the non-GM (aftermarket) pumps that you get from
everywhere but the dealer, have a pickup (Not to be confused with the screen on the bottom), but an actual hose with a metal quarter sized round pickup that snaps into the channel where the screen is. Mine came loose and hovered half way up inside the pump body. When the van had less than a full tank especially on hills and turns it would sputter and stall because the quarter size pickup was sucking air instead of fuel. This literally drove me crazy for 8 months until I got disgusted and dropped the tank myself and took out the old pump and found the problem. I bought a new GM Pump and no more problems. You can reseat the pickup in the bottom of the pump but I don't guaranty it will stay seated..
Good Luck and let me know. My van runs great no problems at all NOW !!!
Joe
DLM1
Craig S
I need to know what the fuel pressure is at the back side of the TBI. I also wonder if the EGR passages can be blocked temporarily to see if the EGR is dumping hot gas in the intake at the wrong time?
I've replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, IAC valve, computer, coolant sensor, cat. I've had the ignition control module tested, the EGR tested. The dealer replaced the fuel pump, but I wonder if it was done right. I replaced the injector pod with a rebuilt one.
Aside from low fuel pressure or EGR malfunction, the only thing I can dream up as a possible cause is hot gas leaking through to the intake passages at the intake gasket. I've run a complete set of pressure tests and leak down tests to rule out the head gasket or burnt valves.
Rosemary
DLM1
DLM1
DLM1
I need your honest professional opinion. On Fri. Jan. 23 I took my van into a local repair depot to get a coolant leak repaired. After they checked out the van they found a leak by the left rear part of the manifold. New one to me. Anyhow I was quoted $900.00 + CAN. and 6 hours of time to repair it. I OK'd the quote.
Now early the next week, 6 hours seems to have been a miss quote, I was told by the service manager that the mechanic screwed things up so badly that they decided to replace my engine with a new one. How could that be??????
Here is one of the many points I am trying to make. They still want to charge me the $900.00. (No, I don't have my van back yet.) They did not complete the work I was quoted on successfully or satisfactorily. They only screwed things up. Why should I still be charged for work that was not actually done irrespective of what was done to correct the problems they caused?
Regards
Glenn
Thanks, Craig S
DLM1
If the fuse is good, I would venture to guess that in the past someone has pulled the dog house and the plug got pulled on them. I would start there and pull the cover (it isn't hard) and see if there is either a loose wire or a completely unplugged wire. If they are plugged in, I wouldn't know where to go from there except to check and see if the cig lighter is working and not the power ports or if both are out. If the cig works, but not the power ports, than they are on different lines. If both are out then there is a a fuse out somewhere (under the dash or under the hood). If you can't trace that down, you can always re-wire them to a different constant "hot" line or run a new fused constant hot line to them.
To remove factory "suspension" depth from your van, some folks install Air Bags and some folks install Timbrens. Air bags are pressurized air and by adjusting its inner lbs, one can adjust its ride comfort. Timbrens are like rubberized air bags without pressurized air inside them. Thus, no worry about possible air leak. If wondering, I have Timbren SES 2,000 lbs units on the rear of my 2001 Safari van. Installed them myself (within simple wrench) and its been good for life. Very pleased with this rear suspension improvement product. For more details on each, surf:
http://www.timbren.com/ses-van-suv.htm
http://www.fsip.com/riderite/products/rrinfo.shtml
If wondering, Timbren or RideRite Air bag system will reduce "factory mush" depth for van's rear cargo and when connecting trailer's that cannot accept a WD system.
Note: Timbrens or Air bags don't "lift" the rear of your van. When properly adjusted, their reduce (eliminate) rear sag. Especially when used with a WD system (with properly sized bars).
When towing large / heavy trailers, one should always use a WD system (with properly sized bars) as well. Many say that WD bars should be 13%-15% of the trailer's "average loaded" weight. For example, a 4,000 lbs trailer should use a WD system with approx 560 lbs bars. For example: bars for 500-800 lbs range. If wondering, a WD system (like REESE WD Hitch @ http://assets.iqestores.com/product_img/highres/66006.jpg ) transfers the trailer's tonque weight across the entire Tow Vehicle (your van). Thus, better vehicle balance, better steering and reduction of rear sag. And less stress on your van's Hitch system as well.
If wondering, both Timbrens (or Air Bags) and a WD system can be used together. When I towed my 19ft TT (4,200 lbs trailer), I used both Timbrens and WD system as well. Worked great - for my towing needs. For my needs, I'd buy the less expensive Timbren SES 2,000 lbs upgrade again.
Hope this helps in your towing needs as well...
.
If my memory is correct, before 1995 vans used a fiberglass leaf spring system. Above 1994 vans (including my previous 1995 RWD Safari van) had a steel leaf spring system. They are 3 steel leafs in the rear of the van. Some folks add +1 leaf to the rear of their van. This method raises the rear of their van 1.5". When the rear goes up, the front goes down. When front goes down, the van's "front end" will need an alignment - to save its front tires and steering parts. In addition to this adjustment, a steel upgrade solution (like +1 leaf or additional helper leaf springs) creates an upward rebound effect. With upper rebound, one gets higher risk of "road hop", Especially when vehicle is empty. Thus, rear end fish tailing. To reduce rear end hop, one then installs higher quality shocks (in the rear). With cost of +1 leaf, wheel alignment and better shocks, one would be better off to buy / install Timbrens or Air bags. Timbrens are 2/3 the cost of air bags. When upgrading rear suspensions, its best to go with Rubber Based solutions. Thus, no upward rebound is added to factory build.
Some folks use air "shocks". These are shocks that allow presurized air inside them (which also create less suspension depth) but they also have risk of future air leaks. And, do put too much stress on the van's factory shock mounts. In my previous Dodge Diplomat, it has wide rear tires with air shocks. I hit double set of railway tracks, its upper shock mount broke and "down came everything". Talk about a mess. From that point on, I took many experienced towing folks warning to heart. re: Avoid air shocks because they put too much stress on factory shock mounts. Go with Timbrens or Air bags instead. And if wondering, Timbrens are same price of air shocks. Especially since even a grade 8 kid can install Timbrens themselves.
For my future van (replacing my current 2001 Safari), I'll be ordering Timbren SES units for it as well. Install them. leave them and they create no additional stress on factory shock mounts. And best of all, no increase in upper rebound (aka: Road Hop) effect.
Hope this helps as well...
.
-load test battery (also wiggle posts while testing to check for damage internally)
-carefully check cable ends (both ends, pos and neg) taking them apart if nessesary looking for corrosion or damage (also wiggle these to see if they might be almost broken)
-be sure that these cables are tightly fastened into place.
-the starter will have to be checked out; probably best to remove it first (quite easy with so much room under there, and the starter being so small. 2 small wires, and 1 large cable) Take it to an auto parts store where they can check it for you. All GM starters have two parts; the solenoid which 1)acts as a switch for the big current 2)energizes the bendix with the starting gear, and the starter itself which is just a strong little motor.
-check for corrosion between starter and engine block (causes a poor grnd or neg)
In my case, the problem was with my positive batt cable, which I replaced. Believe it or not, it was corroded INSIDE and UNDER the insulation. The cable looked fine from the outside, but!! I changed it as a process of elimination because I'm not sure how to check it properly for it's high current carrying ability. Most of the time it's the positive cables that have corrosion.
Here's hoping that you find your problem. Good luck!!
DLM1
Early 95 model and older of Astro/Safari vans had single fiberglass leaf system. Mid 1995 and newer years (like my 2001 van), their factory build was 3 leaf steel spring system. For early 1995 and older leaf spring conversion kits, surf: http://www.stengelbros.com/SteelReplacementSprings.htm
For 1999 AWD, one can install +1 leaf (mid length leaf) in the rear. This firms up the rear's suspension but it also lifts the van's rear 1.5". Because the rear goes up, the front slightly goes down. To raise the front by .5" (for better looking & balanced stance), one can adjust the front torsion bars. And to reduce factory mush "depth" in the front, one can also install Timbrens in the front. Wish I had spare dollars to install Timbrens in the front of my 2001 AWD's front. Perhaps one day...
For 1999 RWD, one can install +1 leaf (mide length leaf) in the rear. This firms up the rear's suspension but is also lifts the van's rear 1.5" Because the rear goes up, the front goes down. To reduce factory mush "depth" in the front, one can install Timbren SES units in the front. Or, install HD coil springs in the front - for better looking & balanced stance.
For more details about Timbren units, surf middle page of: http://www.timbren.com/timbren-application-guides/chev-gmc.htm
Some folks pick Air Bag upgrades, some folks pick Timbren upgrades, some folks pick +1 leaf upgrades and some folks pick a combination of each solution. Each product has its own pros/cons/cost and "ease of use".
Hope this helps as well...
.