Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

GMC Safari/Chevy Astro



  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    rastro, you have a vacuum hose off or leaking. Many times this occurs at the vacuum canister connection. The dealer pulled one hose off my 97 when doing some injector work and I had to go back and have them replace it. The vacuum routing or switching is done through an electro controller module.

    jokerdayton, the fuel pump goes out due to overheating either due to running less than a quarter tank or flow restriction. I try and not run a fuel level less than a quarter tank. And turn off the caps as it makes it difficult for us old folks to read..
  • Sorry about the caps on my previous post. It has 53k on it so the warranty is out. It will not start when it is raining, when it's dry out it's fine. I'm sure it's electrical but not sure where to start. Thanks in advance
  • one87zukone87zuk Posts: 9
    I just purchased a 2000 Safari with Electric Locks and a remote. The problem is the two front door locks. When you try to lock the doors with the door lock switch. Both locks will wiggle a little, but nothing happens. You can hear what sounds like a relay clicking under the dash, but I can't seen to narrow down its location. I think it is under the steering column.

    Does anyone have any ideas on a cause? Also the location of the relay (or what ever it might be?)?

  • one87zukone87zuk Posts: 9
    I need to wire up a trailer plug and electric brakes to my 2000 Safari.

    Can anyone tell me what wires in the coiled up harness back by the jack go to (e.g. right turn=white, left turn=orange, etc.)?

    Are the Safari's wired for trailer brakes? Doesn't really matter. I will wire them in otherwise.

  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    With the engine running and you tap lock three or four times and the doors eventually lock, then the linkage needs lubrication. My sliding door lock does this now.

    I don't remember all about the trailer wiring bundle, but when you purchase the heavy duty 7 wire plug it will have the standard wire color code. You will have to run wires from the brake controller you purchase. Also it has to be connected to the brake light switch for activation. Just follow the directions. But use real wire splice sleeves instead of the intermittent trouble prone squeeze clips that cut through the insulation.
  • jgd65jgd65 Posts: 7
    While the subject of wires near the jack is fresh....My 93 Astro has one....has a little black box plugged into the end of them....any ideas as to what these are? My Haynes manual schematics are rear window defroster diagram to be found.

    Any help appreciated

  • ant2ant2 Posts: 1
    In reply to your sticky gas pedal,yes i have had that problem,i took it to the shop today all they have to do is grease up the pedal line by the throttle body and that should fix the problem.the problems started to happen after my extended warranty ended.GO FIGURE.i have also had ALOT of other problems with my 99 astro.transmission went out $1800.00,front bearings went out,$200,(the next problems i took it to the dealer)the horn went out do to wiring problems under the hood along with the motor in the driver side window and the dealer checked the sticking gas pedal,they told me i needed a new throdle body for $500...later (today) i found out that it just needed to be greased the dealer tried to stick it to me with the throttle body,anyway all these thing were $521,fuel pump went out $700,alternator $150,and my 99 astro has under 100,000 miles about 97,000,sorry reply is so long,but every time i think about this i get angry,oh yeah and all these problems with the exception of the front wheel bearings has happened in the last 3 months,ive owned astro for about a little over 2 years.this is the worst used CERTIFIED car i have ever owned!!! :mad:
  • stan7stan7 Posts: 7
    Got new tires. Mech said my right-rear wheel cylinder was leaking, showed me the black fluid on his fingertip. Buy one? Rebuild? Get a used one? He said $200 to rebuild....2000 Astro with 125K. Also I get a whirling sound in the rear end only with acceleration and only above 30 mph. Bad news??
  • bassbobhbassbobh Posts: 1
    Help! I have a 99 Astro cargo van and overnight parked in my driveway I lost steering and brakes. The wheels will turn if you exert all your strength on the steering wheel and the van will stop if you stand on the brake pedal. Wierd. It's the weekend and all repair shops are closed. Anyone have a clue? Someone mentioned coil but my truck starts and runs great. Please email at
  • Sounds like the power assist for both steering and brakes went out. My guess is some point on the serpentine belt (good luck checking that out by yourself!) might not be making contact, or might be seized or slipping.
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Part of being a vibrant online community is keeping the questions and answers here so everyone can benefit. Please don't ask people to email you with answers.

  • one87zukone87zuk Posts: 9
    Unfortunately, the symptoms point to the power steering pump going out. I would think you have the hyrdo boost when both steering and brakes go out. The pump powers the hydro boost (Brake booster) and the steering.

    Hope this helps,
  • one87zukone87zuk Posts: 9
    If you have any mechanical ability. I would suggest replacing it yourself. Don't bother rebuilding it. Wheel cylinders are usually pretty cheap. You will need to bleed the brake system out after replacing. If you have black fluid though. You may want to flush the hole system out. Brake fluid should never be black. Unless there are greasy mechanic fingers behind it.

    As for the "Whirling". I would check the u-joints on the driveline for excessive play and go from there.
  • dkelly23dkelly23 Posts: 4
    Jaime- They are the trailer wires. You have to add the appropriate end
  • mdconvertmdconvert Posts: 1
    I had to replace both front lock actuators on my '99. I bought them on line cheaper than a dealer and so far they've worked ok. I seem to remember having to drill out something on the old one to remove it.
  • billharrisbillharris Posts: 1
    I just bought a 92 Safari XT. I've tooled around in a '78 GMC 2500 for the last 18 years, and decided to buy a more economical van. 500K on the GMC had a bit to do with the decision, too.

    The XT seems to be in reasonably good shape, although it has 180K on the clock. If the rain holds off, I plan to pull a major service on it this weekend: vital fluids, filters, ignition and hoses (coolant,fuel and vacuum) as well as a general close inspection and crawl-under.

    The only "known repair" I need to do is the air conditioner. Between the "test drive" last weekend and the "drive home" Monday the compressor clutch quit engaging. The radio also went out, so I half assume it may be a fuse. But the wiring schematic in a Haynes manual at the library shows that the clutch works through a A/C pressure switch and the "central computer", so I'd appreciate any hints on what else to check.

    I need to pull a light utility trailer soon. Just a riding mower and trash trips to the landfill. I recall that many Chevy Astros used to use a simple hitch plate that mounted to the bumper. Is this still available (and useable on the '92)? I don't want to $pend a bunch on a frame trailer hitch _right now_ with unknown repairs and upgrades on a newly-used vehicle on my hands.

    I've read through most of the 43 pages here, and this looks like a good Forum.

  • jgd65jgd65 Posts: 7
    Don, Thanks for the reply !

    Do you have any idea what the little box is plugged into the wires? Kinda has me baffled as to what that is????

    Thanks again

  • My 95 had the same issue. I cleaned the 2 brass connectors on the side of the post and on the door. The ones on the door have springs in them. This worked well for me.
  • afmorganafmorgan Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Will you let me know if you get it figured out? I've done some investigating and found that the door has a vertically mounted device with a gear pushing a rod up and down. The small gear/rod device is sealed as one unit; and is riveted to the door (stupid design). It seems the motor doesn't have the "umph" to push and pull the rod. Thinking it may a restriction, I tried spraying some WD-40 type spray in the device, but it didn't help.
Sign In or Register to comment.