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Audi A4 2004 and earlier

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Comments

  • harleycop3harleycop3 Member Posts: 4
    mark I apoligize for my ignorance, mom always said " lifes tough, its tougher if your stupid" after posting my question I did my research and learned exactly what you explained. I have been a fan of valvoline for 20 plus years with no complaints, but it may be time for a change.
  • claydj2claydj2 Member Posts: 10
    2001.5 A4 1.8T and coils. I have had multiple issues with ignition coils – this may have been a previously discussed topic, my apologies to avid readers.

    I can tell you that all 4 of my coils have been replaced once, and two have been replaced twice – a total of three visits to the dealer for this problem. I can also tell you that in 2002-03 fall/winter, my car was at the dealer on two occasions having coils replaced. Each time, my car was at the dealer for 3 weeks while they waited for parts, totaling 6 weeks without my car. Furthermore, the dealer performed extremely poorly in addressing the situation – I had to argue to get a loaner at one visit.

    If you want advice from someone who has had this car for three years, don’t buy this car for the long-term. Not so much to do with general mechanical unreliability, but Audi’s incompetence to solve recurring issues.
  • msruckusmsruckus Member Posts: 5
    I just purchased a beautiful new Brilliant Red A4 1.8T yesterday. I actually surprised my husband with it for our anniversary. Anyways, the dealer says that they fill it with Premium but that this may not be necessary. Do all you A4 drivers always use premium or has anyone switched to a lower grade? Thanks in advance.
  • speedracer3speedracer3 Member Posts: 650
    I alternate between mid-grade and regular. The only negative I notice is the lack of pep that you would get with super. Other than a slight performance difference, no ill effects on using lower octanes. Also, even with the lower octane fules, I still get an average of 26 to 27 mpg in mixed driving.
  • harleycop3harleycop3 Member Posts: 4
    I run 87 octane and can't tell any difference,why pay more if you don't need to.
  • gismogismo Member Posts: 10
    We ordered our A4 Brilliant red (factory order) over two months ago, and still waiting. Great color and different from the boring greys and blacks so common on the roads. It's nice to be different and it is eye catching color. Looks great with the ultra sport package as this is full body color and more aero design.

    For Gasoline, you always get more spunk with super and better gas mileage and I find the diference in price worth it. Also, in the long run, it keeps your fuel injection lines and plugs clean. If you use regular or even mid grade, you should add a small bottle of fuel injection liquid to your tank every 5-6 fill-ups. The extra cost is about $3per bottle. The super gas has this additive and so the cost of super will not be that much more in long run.
  • sk8surfrsk8surfr Member Posts: 14
    K the other day i pulled up to a light. A girl probably in her teens was next to me in a stock... i repeat stock Infinity G20... Light green both take off... She won.. There has got to be something wrong with my car! Agreed?

    2001.5 A4 1.8T Quattro... There is no way it could loose to a stock G20 (140hp)... IS THERE?
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,391
    her G20 was stock?

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • sk8surfrsk8surfr Member Posts: 14
    yes, i am 99.9% possitive. she was a new driver and i am almost possitive it was. also, i feel my car has lost power... so if it was truley stock then something is wrong with my car... correct?
  • briancalgarybriancalgary Member Posts: 10
    Is it really underpowered? I felt it was a bit. Would you share your experience and feeling?

    Thanks.

    Brian
  • speedracer3speedracer3 Member Posts: 650
    Depends which 1.8T you drove. The Quattro with Tip or manual feels underpowered, but drive the Frontrack CVT or manual and you've got a car that is suprisingly quick. My previous car was a Nissan Maxima, and I don't suffer from horsepower envy driving my A4 1.8T vs my old Maxima.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    My mom's 2001 Audi 1.8t Frontrak Sport package has a problem with the brakes that I'm hoping someone can shed some light on. She claims she hears a loud rubbing sound whenever she engages the brakes. She has had the front end looked at and it was discovered some brake clips were missing so they reinstalled those but the noise is still there. Apparently the front brake pads are fine. She has right around 52k so she is out of warranty. Besides, the noise only showed up after her car was hit while parked in the front driver side fender and pushed into a concrete sidewalk. Damage was extensive (about $8k of damage, all while parked at a hospital!) and she has a whole new front suspension, CV axles, and wheels. No one can explain where the noise is coming from. I suggested that maybe the noise is really coming from the rear from worn out brake pads since I have heard they wear out rapidly on these cars and she has never had a brake job done. I also told her to see if the splash shield is rubbing against the caliper or something. Any other ideas on what could cause such a loud rubbing noise only when the brakes are applied?
  • marshallcpamarshallcpa Member Posts: 22
    I'm likely going to lease a 2005 A4 1.8T Q 6M. Because of aggressive pricing, an e-mail certificate from Audi, and the way Audi has structured its lease program, with 0 cap cost reduction, the payments are essentially the same from 24 to 42 month terms. I'm leaning toward 24 months because of upcoming changes to car. However, to do 24 mo., I want to avoid replacing tires before I hit 30K lease max on the mileage. For those who have these cars, at what mileage did you replace the tires? My wife had a 96 A4 2.8 front-trak, and I think we replaced around 35 or 36K. Don't know if they were the same tires. Any feedback would be appreciated. By the way, if I take the plunge, the car will have the 17" wheels.

    Also, I have an offer on the table for $750 over invoice for a 2005. Dealer processing fee is $100. From a follow-up e-mail, I get the feeling there might be some room to negotiate. They do not know that I have a $500 off certificate from Audi, and will not find out until after we have agreed on the price. Any feedback on negotiating strategy would be appreciated.

    Brian
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Member Posts: 5,343
    If the car comes with high performance summer only tires, you will need to replace them "to be safe" @ 20,000 miles. You may be able to get 30K miles out of a set of All Seasons if you can get it with these tires.

    Know, however, that you may have to pay for a new set of tires if you turn the car in with 30K on the clock and baldies on its feet.
  • gismogismo Member Posts: 10
    I was in Europe last week, and noticed on the road the Audi A3 which looked smaller and more compact than the A4. why is this not available in USA ?
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,391
    The new A3 is due for US release in Spring 2005.

    More is in the 2005 A3 topic

    chrisducati "2005 Audi A3" Oct 30, 2003 7:44pm

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • jplymanjplyman Member Posts: 90
    I just picked up my new Audi A4 (1.8TQ 6-Speed, Prem and 17" Perelli tires - Ocean Blue)- I love the car and picked over a BMW, Acura, Volvo and Saab.

    First question - what is the best tire pressure for handling and traction (I live in Atlanta)for the Perelli 17" P6 tires - I've looked at the old message and have seen anywhere from 30 to 38.

    Second question - My A4 came ready for XM radio (have the right face plate and antenna) all I need is a receiver - do I need to buy the Audi receiver or is there a cheaper third party brand?

    Thanks for all your help
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Member Posts: 5,343
    Tires: +2 higher on Front tires over Rears.

    Tires: check and set when "cold" -- not after you have driven the car (difficult sometimes to make this happen, but if you have a gauge check it after the car has been parked over night, write down the pressures and then add or substract air at nearest pump.)

    Tires: under inflation ((at the low end of the recommendation on the gas filler door) is probably NOT what I would do, but the ride will be softer and the gas and tire milage will be lower).

    Tires: setting them to the highest number indicated for the fronts and -2 for the rears would be OK if you want maximum handling, tire and fuel consumption minimzed, etc.

    Tires: try this - 37 front, 35 rear. And, rotate your tires at the first required check up.

    XM: personally I would take the Audi factory set up (it has a list price of "$350" doesn't it?); you ought to be able to negotiate something off of that -- then you will have a "perfect" fit.

    XM: on the other hand, someone, somewhere will almost certainly find something that would work for less money -- if it is a perfect fit and match, you might at least consider that option. As I said, I'd just go the Audi route, then the full Audi advantage will apply to it (4 year warranty, etc.)

    The P6 tires, in my experience, will handle well and won't last long -- less than 20K miles. The higher inflation numbers above will give you the best these shoes can give, however.
  • jplymanjplyman Member Posts: 90
    Does anyone know if the 04 has the tire monitor as a standard item? - My A4 was built 03/04 -

    Thanks
  • umassumass Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Audi A4 with an stale odor problem. When the ac is on, for the first 10 seconds or so, a strong stale odor comes from the vents. After about 10 seconds, it seemed 50% better. But today, I even noticed it with the heat (It's 55 degrees out so the heat was coming through). It continued for my 20 minute ride. I've brought it in twice in recent weeks. Audi replaced the pollen filter and sprayed some chemical. Seemed to be better for a day or two. Then the stale, musty smell returned. Any ideas?????????? Thanks.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,391
    if there's an obstruction preventing the condensate from the a/c evaporator from draining it'll collect and mold will grow there causing an odor.

    See a dealer or experienced auto HVAC tech.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • cyberpmgcyberpmg Member Posts: 83
    Make sure that before you park and turn off the car that the air circulation is set to allow fresh air in and not in "recirculate" mode. Leaving the car in "recirculate" mode leaves the vents to the outside closed and will trap the moisture and condensation inside the vents where mold can grow. You should set it to allow fresh air or to "automatic" mode which will leave the vents open when the car is turned off.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,391
    I wanted to let you know that the canary in TH's A4 mine is gone. I've traded in Bronzehilde, my '98 Avant 2.8/Tip at just over 123,000 miles. The trade-in has little to do with the car which I'd planned to keep but I thought since this car had the highest mileage of any that's been discussed on this board I 'd give a condition report.

    At 123k+ this is still an attractive and serviceable car..

    http://www.concordmotorsport.com/printable.asp?ID=30501

    I have had it off the road for unscheduled service only on a couple of occasions since I bought the car with 53K in Fall 2000. It's put up with commuting, bad weather and long trips and taken them all in remarkable stride.

    As of our parting the only discernable mechanical flaws were these:

    -Airbag light came on at 122K+, cause still undetermined.

    -Oil leak at front of engine, attempted repair (gaskets replaced) unsuccessful. Leakage was minimal with perhaps half a quart consumed between oil changes every 5K.

    I was impressed by the longevity of the basic systems of this car, I never replaced a single component of the exhaust system, put in only a single new battery and one set of brake pads and rotors (@95k). The timing belt was replaced @ 70K as was the serpentine belt. An auxiliary cooling fan was replaced @ about 75K and again @120k due to damage to the wiring caused by mice (!)

    That's pretty much it for mechanics. On the cosmetic side--

    -Paint still had excellent gloss and smoothness, the car was professionally waxed yearly. The re was an area of chalking and blothchiness on the passenger side which my detailing guy was sure could be cured by a good buffing.
    No rust appeared anywhere on the exterior of the car.

    -The interior held up very well with the leather showing no signs of cracking, tearing or other distress. Seat cushions held up well.
    There was wear and tear visible on the drivers side door pull and on the rotary knob that controls the moonroof.

    I conclude that if you take care of your A4, it'll take care of you, good luck with yours gentlemen. They are fine cars, I'm sure I will rejoin the Audi family at some point probably with a DSG equipped A3/3.2

    Be sure and check out the article in Road and Track about the B5 A4s...

    http://roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=7&article_id=1- - - 501&page_number=1&preview=

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • 204meca204meca Member Posts: 369
    That R & T article certainly seem to discount some of the negativity regarding the reliablity of the A4s. I hope my 2004 1.8T CVT does as good or better. Very happy at 9,500 and looking forward to 1,500 mile trip to Jasper and Banff in it next month!
  • richb1richb1 Member Posts: 9
    Good luck with those P6's from Pirelli. I have had to replace three of them on my A4 due to sidewall "sensitivity" as a Pirelli tech rep told me after I complained to them about tire quality. I wouldn't use them in winter, even though they are all season Bought Dunlop M3's for winter driving and they are super.
  • rwoodsrwoods Member Posts: 129
    Since it is now Oct. 5th this is a little stale but I always use premium gas in my A4 3.0 since the owners manual recommends it. I only drive about 4,000 miles per year so the cost of premium amounts to small change for me.
  • rwoodsrwoods Member Posts: 129
    DearJohnsonlau703,

    I purchased the Bose speakers and am happy with them. The XM radio is fantastic. I have not listened to a CD since I got it so it saves me the price of CD's. It frees me from all commercials. And I especially like that it shows the artist's name and the song name. This has helped me get a better feel for classical music. Now I know Mozart from Beethoven.
  • richzrichz Member Posts: 160
    I just got my '05 A4 1.8T quattro 10 days ago and am looking to buy the Audi rubber all-weather floor mats to replace the carpeted ones that come with it. I was just wondering if anyone knows of any place other than audiusa.com where I can buy genuine audi accessories like floormats.

    Thanks.
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Member Posts: 5,343
    At your Audi dealer! But, audiusa.com will reward you with discounts off future purchases if you become an audiusa.com customer. Only if you want something TODAY -- will this be a problem.
  • richzrichz Member Posts: 160
    Yeah my Audi dealer is actually kind of worthless when it comes to accessories...I was just wondering if there were any cheaper place online to buy them. I guess I'll go with audiusa.com.
  • tgraysontgrayson Member Posts: 15
    Does anyone know what the premium package adds to a 3.0? I am debating a 3.0 with the ultra sport instead.
  • a4drivera4driver Member Posts: 11
    Premium package is $2300 on a 2005 A4 3.0.
  • a4drivera4driver Member Posts: 11
    it adds glass sunroof, homelink, autodimming mirrors inside and out, light sensor package, bi-xenon headlights, memory for drivers seat and mirrors, multifunction steering wheel.
  • tgraysontgrayson Member Posts: 15
    Hmmmm...I managed to find a great deal on a 3.0 with ultra sport, cold weather, ans premium sound but I am thinking I would like the premium package...what do you all think? The price is 500 over invoice
  • winnwellwinnwell Member Posts: 8
    I just leased the 2005 3.0 with premium package - I am quite pleased with the car.
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Member Posts: 5,343
    I drove an A4 3.0 6spd manual ultra sport this weekend (a 2005).

    This was a great car -- but I do not think it would be impressive with this engine and a 5spd tiptronic -- not enough torque.

    With the 6spd and the ultra sport, this thing, while NOT a BMW killer, would be (mostly) a BMW keeper-upper-with (thinking of a 330"x", for example) -- and the BMW cannot be had with ultra sport.

    I'll wager the new 2005.5 A4 ultra sport 3.2 with a 6psd manual (and MAYBE even the 6spd tip) will be quite impressive.
  • tgraysontgrayson Member Posts: 15
    I leased the car tonight...I am in the navy and before I left for sea a couple weeks ago it was 522 a month...now with Audis new lease rates..same car 468 (with tax) :)
  • usmattlousmattlo Member Posts: 7
    I have a concern that if I am planning to selling my A4 to the dealership, how much, in terms of percentage, would they mark down the price compared to the private selling?? Any suggestions or feedback will be welcomed. Thank you!!
  • markcincinnatimarkcincinnati Member Posts: 5,343
    The dealer will hope to pay you the wholesale market price and sell it at the retail market price. If you sell the car privately, you should be able to sell it somewhere in between those two amounts.

    The dealer can do things, however that you can't or won't do to make the purchase more attractive (the dealer MAY do these things). That means that the "only" incentive you can give a prospective buyer is a lower price. Time also factors in this deal, too.

    If, for the sake of argument you think you have a buyer "on the line" for some number OVER wholesale, take it IMMEDIATELY. One of my co workers tried e-bay and lost the sale, the first time, by a $50 dollar reserve difference. So, he reposted the car on ebay for some smaller number and the process started all over again. The cost was "weeks" and several false starts (time wise, that is).

    He didn't care, the car was paid for and the insurance was paid for a couple of months and the plates didn't expire until 12/31/2004 -- so for him the "waiting game" was no biggie.

    If, for whatever reason, your car is "not hot" the dealer may offer you less than wholesale -- if you have the option to go to another dealer (a VW dealer for instance) you may find that you have some choices.

    I have only bought a car ONCE from a private owner and sold one ONCE as a private owner. I never felt the time I had to put into it was "worth" the savings since in my direct experience I was not buying from a distressed seller and when I was selling, it was just to opt out early from a lease before the invention of swapalease.com.

    I -- personally -- have neither the inclination nor time to try to "sell by owner."

    But that is just me.

    Remember, the dealer may offer a warranty -- and that may be the difference you cannot make up.
  • hudson232hudson232 Member Posts: 5
    Last month, I bought a 1999 Audi A4 quattro with the 1.8 turbo. The car has 35,000 miles, in great shape and I purchased it from my mothers estate after she passed away suddenly last June. I love the car; ride, handling, looks, etc, except for one thing...The Gas Mileage Is Horrible! I have measured it now for four full fill-ups, highway and city (50/50) and the best I am doing is 16.5 MPG. The engine runs smooth, idle, pickup, deceleration, etc, and rolls in neutral. I know the manufacturer specs rate the car much higher. The check engine light was in (chipmunks built a major nest while the car was sitting), but my mechainic replaced the chewed vacuum lines and now the light is off. The check engine code was #1136.

    My 2000 MB C230 Kompressor that I returned to the dealer this month was getting 22 mpg with the same driving. Any suggestions? JOHN
  • cyberpmgcyberpmg Member Posts: 83
    Congrats on getting the Audi. Sorry for your loss, though.

    If the A4 wasn't used much while it belonged to your mother (as evidenced by the chipmunk nest), I would check all belts, hoses and seals to make sure there are no cracks and/or leaks. If they are good, then give it some time to get the mileage back up to where it should belong.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,391
    that didn't stop field mice and or chipmunks from
    gnawing on the wiring and the windshield washer hose!

    The cure is camphor balls under the hood, don't use too many!

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

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  • ugly2ugly2 Member Posts: 22
    Have a question on an older, '97 A4. Does anyone know if the 16" wheels used on an '01 TT are interchangeable with the 16" wheels used on a '97 A4?

    John
  • cyberpmgcyberpmg Member Posts: 83
    TT wheels have a bolt pattern of 5x100. The A4 has a bolt pattern of 5x112. The TT wheels will not fit. You can use wheels that come from the A6 and A8 as they also use a 5.112 bolt pattern.
  • tim_hooligantim_hooligan Member Posts: 143
    Bad news about my '01 A4...got into a bad wreck coming home from work on Friday. I was rear-ended while sitting still in traffic on the highway...the car that hit me from behind was travelling > 60mph and never saw me stopped (no swerve, no skid marks). Even worse, the force of impact pushed my A4 into the worker truck in front of me, damaging the front end badly. I swerved left enough to avoid going under the truck, but it still damaged the front end badly.

    Luckily, I walked away without a scratch...just a sore neck and bumped knees. The A4, IMHO, is a very safe car.

    Now, the real fun begins. Obviously, this car sustained major damage. The trunk is 1/10 its normal size. The rear seats are now pressed against the front seats. The rear bumper is pressed up against the rear tires, to the car won't drive. There's ripples in the hood from what appears to be a severely bent frame. The doors don't open or close without major effort. It looks like the gas tank may have been ruptured too (leaking fluid?)

    On the front, the front bumper is smashed into the radiator. It dropped what looks like all the coolant when the radiator was ruptured. The hood is badly damaged on the right side. Overall, it looks like a total loss to me.

    So my question is, will insurance declare it a total loss? What do I get, value-wise, if it's a total loss? I have a lien against it right now, and I'm afraid the insurance might actually try to repair it. Any advice from people out there?

    Overall, I'd say that despite my reliability issues, I was so happy the A4 was such a safe car. You can't put a price on that.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Sorry to hear this - and I'm so glad you weren't hurt. It sounds like almost a miracle that you weren't hurt by the description of the car. It's certainly fortunate that no one was in the back seat at the time, wow.

    We'll see what folks here think, but you might also want to check out our insurance discussions over in Smart Shopper. If you use the keyword search for "insurance" they will be easy to find.

    Good luck with it.
  • tim_hooligantim_hooligan Member Posts: 143
    Got a call from my insurance company, and the A4 is a total loss. Turns out the driver's seat was also broken in the crash and the adjuster was in shock that I was not even scratched. (I've taken worse hits in a game of soccer!) The adjuster was at $14k damage, and that was before opening the hood. But, the hood wouldn't open at all...so they just totalled it.

    So, it now looks like I'm going to buy a new car. It's sad to say goodbye to the Audi family, but enjoy your A4s! They beat the heck out of these rental cars you get!

    I might try to take the spare tire with me. It was a brand new SP8000. Might get some $$$ from it on ebay.
  • cyberpmgcyberpmg Member Posts: 83
    Sorry to hear about the accident. I think it's a good testament to Audi's engineering that you were not harmed. That alone should be worth strong consideration in the purchase of another Audi.
  • alcatrazt2alcatrazt2 Member Posts: 70
    Hello everyone. I am glad to join this forum. I just purchased a 2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT. It's great!
    My first question:
    I came home today, tired. Forgot that my car was in D (Drive) and turned car off...Tried to take key out, wouldn't come out, tried turning the car back on, wouldn't turn on. Until I put it in P (Park) then it would let me take the key out and turn on my car.
    My question is as fallows: Will/Can turning the car off while in D gear mess or ruin anything car related? Thanks.
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