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Mazda 626

1171820222340

Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I did the same thing and had similar results. The hesitating was gone and the engine performs like new. If you're in doubt, get it done.

    I use 87 octane now and I swear it runs much better than it did before the service even with 93 octane.

    -juice
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I'm curious what everyone has had to pay for the injection cleaning service. I'm pretty sure Penske (KMart) can do it as well. I'll check their prices. Thanks for the tip on this.
  • blacklabelblacklabel Member Posts: 11
    I got a 93 Mazda 626 LX a few weeks ago. It has almost 129k miles. It has power locks but when I open up the door and get out and push the lock down, only the driver door locks and when I shut the door, the door unlocks.

    And it supposedly has a security system but it never comes on, probably cause the doors never lock! What's wrong?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We paid about $500 but did the spark plugs and wires, too, plus a few other minor things. Then again I find our dealership is overpriced, and I'm probably not going back there next time.

    -juice
  • theparallaxtheparallax Member Posts: 361
    I knew someone who had an older Mazda pickup. If it's anything like that, hold up on the outside door handle as you close the door and it will stay locked when you slam the door.
  • xfilesxfiles Member Posts: 132
    I think this is the cheaper way of going then having them do it later. Add a can about every 5-5-7000 miles rather then wait 25,000 miles to do it when it is really too dirty and too late. A bit of preventative maintenance is the best way of going, and a bottle of the stuff only costs a few dollars. I hear the stuff in the dealerships is of higher quality though over what you find at Wallmart, etc.
  • blacklabelblacklabel Member Posts: 11
    Well today I locked it while getting out and when I shut it, the lock actually stayed lock but none of the other doors lock. But you are right, it always stays lock if I hold up on the handle as I close it.
  • soopercoopsoopercoop Member Posts: 1
    I've read lots of postings about 4cyl. autos and thought I would share our car history. We bought a 94 626lx rental w/17k on it in 1995. We just sold it 09/01 with 195,000 on it. Never had any tranny problems at all. In fact only had it serviced about 4 times. Aside from oxygen sensor, rear struts,gear in steering assembly,water pump,and normal maintenance we drove it hard and was very pleased. I'm surprised to hear about tranny problems with the 4cyl. autos. We are in the process of buying a 98 lx w/97,500 miles for $4000 What a deal! It has some very bad key graffiti on the hood and trunk, but plan on getting it painted.

    The first thing I'll do is have tranny flushed, do you guys recommend mobil 1 fluid as some have suggested? It's got moonroof and factory alloys,cd player,etc.looks awesome from 50ft away. Any other suggestions is appreciated. thanks.
    soopercoop(626 in MI)
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    At least on my '99 626 w/ 4cyl and auto. transmission - it is very unclear on how to service the transmission. Note that the owners manual is silent on the issue. I've had conflicting stories from Mazda shops with no concensus. Some say to flush - some say flush and you'll be sorry and that you should only drain and replace what comes out. I had a very negative experience flushing a van w/ 72k miles that had never been serviced before. Tranny shifted great UNTIL I flushed. Now 5k later it still shifts very hard when its warm. Started immediately after flushing. EVERY mechanic I've spoken to (that doesn't have a flush machine in their shop) swears that it is BAD for a tranny to flush. Something about all of the new fluid shocks the system or some say that it puts debris in the solenoids. Oh well - back to 626. I called the 800# in my manual and the guy answering the tech support line said only to drain fluid and then ONLY if its discolored. If you car shifts nice now, I'd check the color on the dip stick and take the conservative approach and drain and refill if its discolored. I am absolutely no expert on this - just a confused soul that finds it appalling that a car's manual would remain silent on the maintence of one of the key components in the automobile.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    my '99 626 has 55k trouble free miles on it.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    If the transmission has never, ever been serviced, flushing might not be the way to go; while it's possible to argue that if a flush is enough to push a tranny into failure mode, it wasn't far from it to begin with, I'd hate to be the service advisor telling this to a client.

    Ford used to pass this off as service advice:

    "Under normal vehicle operating conditions, transmission service (transmission model CD4E) is not required unless 5,000 mile fluid inspections reveal either contamination or discoloration of fluid, or transmission exhibits functional concerns."

    I tend to distrust the very concept of "normal vehicle operating conditions", but for now, I'm just watching the fluid and taking notes.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    I respectifully disagree with these Automatic Mazda Transmissions. My son had a CD4E tranny on his 1997 626. It worked just fine until 65K. Then, it wouldn't shift between 1st and 2nd without going into really high revolutions.

    Took it to my Mazda specialist. He immediately completely drained out all of the fluid, and added Lubegard. As a preventative, he recommends a simple drain and refill with Lubegard every 15,000 miles. He won national Mazda competitions just 3 years ago.

    No problem at all since.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Will the bottle do it? No. I added Techron, Valvoline, or Castrol Fuel System Cleaners as recommended. They did not work like the full fuel system cleaner.

    This was money well spent.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Actually, same here. Techron, which is generally regarded as one of the better detergents, did nothing to help my hesitation.

    -juice
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I've got an opportunity to buy the above car with traction control/abs/Bose system/automatic with 16k miles for $14k. Any feedback? I haven't paid much attention to posts about the V6 w/ auto powertrain. Its a very clean car and it appears to be a great deal to me.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The V6/auto has been reliable throughout the 626's life span.

    That's a good price for a car with so few miles. The original owner paid for more than 1/3rd of the total cost of depreciation and got only 16k miles out of it.

    -juice
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    I am conflicted. Maybe you other 626ers can give me some clarity of thought. Should I keep my '99 626 LX 4cyl with auto. with 56k or retail it myself and buy this '00 EX v6 with prem. pkg and 16k miles? Here are some of the other factors:

    Current car: bought new - I know the history -always garaged and maintained. Mazda extended warranty to 100k (bumper to bumper with $50 deductible - just in case the tranny goes). Car has been extremely reliable. Hoping I could retail for $9500 - has sunroof/cd/cassette/sedona red/transferrable warranty to 100k.

    Proposed car: v6 with premium pkg incl anti lock brakes and traction control. Don't know history - car looks clean - at reputable Ford/Chrysler dealer. Color is "Chestnut" with tan leather. (any opinions on this color would also be appreciated) Dealer is asking $14,100. I would offer $13,100. Remainder of the 50k mile warranty.

    ANY feedback would be appreciated.
  • cknslscknsls Member Posts: 7
    I just brought a "used" 2001 626 ES/V6 with everything but traction control and ABS. It was sold by a private party. It had 5,600 miles on it. I got them down to 16,800. What a nice car it is. On the car you are looking to buy-I would go to www.carfax.com and check the VIN. If you do not have it, go back to the dealer and write it down. The cost is $15.00. If it checks out-buy it. By the way-I think the asking price on the one you currently own is high. Let's face it, Mazdas are REAL SOFT on the use car market. They are not like Honda or Toyota!
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    Thanks - good info. Sounds like you got a great deal. Your probably right on my cars price. "Real world trade in value" board said probably mid 8's for a trade. Black book shows $8800 and Edmunds shows $7666. I would think I could get at least $9k with the warranty and the condition its in if I'm just patient. That means I'd be upgrading for my car and $4100 if I could buy the newer car for $13100.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    What will carfax.com show me? Will be able to tell if the car has ever been wrecked?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It would sort of be a shame to lose that long warranty you paid for. Then again, the V6 is nice to have. Totally your call, I could understand you wanting to go either way, ie. risk and cost vs. power and features.

    -juice
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    the power leather seats is a BIG upgrade in my opinion. I would still be driving my 626 if only I had held out and gotten the ES V6. (knew i wanted the v6 and dealer only had LXV6 in stock).

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    Keep the car with the warranty and then get a new Mazda 6 when they are out.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The new 6 does look like a big improvement. Lots more power, too.

    -juice
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Carfax shows problems with the title, like whether it's been owned by a rental company, or whether a full salvage title has been issued. You can also find out what states the car has beenin. I have had other things listed occassionally like inspections.

    What are the limitations. It rarely shows anything that doesn't show up on the State Vehicle Title reports. This can vary widely depending on the amount of information required to be entered on the title. I't not prefect, but in my view, worth the money.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    for the advice. I especially like the idea of hanging on and waiting for the Mazda 6 to come out. The cost per mile of driving from 56k to 100k should be the lowest - especially in light of the warranty I paid for. Its just so hard to appreciate what you have. Human nature I guess.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    especially when a better engine is in the newer models.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    The Mazda 6 won't come out until early 2003, :(.
    It was unveiled at the Detroit Auto Show this week.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Member Posts: 157
    Anybody know a good quick fix for a glove box rattling? It just started doing this after 56k miles. I can barely touch it and it stops. I'm wondering if a little peace of foam tape put in the right place might help.
  • dadriverdadriver Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone i am about to buy my first car. I was advised not to buy a new car b/c i will be stressed out about marks and scrathes on it. Well i saw the mazda 626, 1993, and the dealer said that he will sell it to me for $ 3000. the car has 11500 miles, cassette player and looks fairly clean and attractive to me (a new comer to the driving world). please tell me if i am making a wise decision in buying it this week. i also would appreciate some questions u guys think i should ask the dealer before i pay for the car.
  • dadriverdadriver Member Posts: 2
    i my previous email i meant to say that the car has 115000 miles on it
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Things I would certainly do after test-driving but before signing the check:
    • If this is an automatic, pull the dipstick and get a look at the fluid. If it's grey or brown or smells burned, walk away.
    • Check all the electricals - make sure they work. Not all of them are easy to fix when they don't.
    • If a little red light on the stereo comes on with the power off and the keys out of the ignition, ask the dealer if he has the antitheft code for it. Otherwise, first time you have to change the battery, the stereo is going to demand this code, and if you don't have it, you go tuneless.
    • Consider bringing in an independent mechanic to look over the car. This will probably cost you $100 or so, but diverting you away from a car that's about to run up six grand in repair bills is well worth it. I yield to no one in my admiration for the '93 626, but not even I would put up with that.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Well, another round of repairs and $819 later, our 626 is back on the road (new left front hub and wheel bearing). I'm kind of disappointed, to be honest.

    The thing was perfecty reliable for about 5 years, but the last 2 years have brought on $2 grand worth of repairs, and 3 visits to the dealer. Not too happy about that.

    It only has 70k miles too, on a '95 V6/5 speed.

    Oh well, a good car otherwise, but I hope the streak of bad luck has ended.

    -juice
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    OUCH? You are going to have to give up your dealer loyalty at those prices.

    I count about $175 in parts and 2.1hrs of labor. So at $819 that works out to roughly $300/hr for the labor.

    Please restore my dealer confidence and say there is more to it.

    :)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Already made that decision. Basically we went back after they had fixed the right front axle boot, thinking it was the same problem again (so it would have been free). Not so, so we got nailed for yet another repair bill.

    I will have to check the invoice, but I think that was it. These are the same guys that charged $220 for an O2 sensor, parts only. On-line I found it at Trussville Mazda for $160, and aftermarket it was $70 at Trak Auto.

    Never again will I go to that dealer.

    -juice
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I forgot about that! that could have been a result of them not torquing the axle properly. Was that on the same side that they did the repair? Now I'm full of curiosity.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No, different side. I was hoping it was the same side, so they'd cover at least part of the costs.

    It lasted for 70k miles, not horrible but less than expected.

    -juice
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    My wheel bearing replaced only due to an accident cost $130.00. How much was yours.

    How much was that wheelhub?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The wife paid for it, so I don't have the actual invoice. I was just quoted the total cost of the job ($819, and that's after a coupon discount). Seems pretty outrageous to me.

    -juice
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    But I got the following services:

    1. CV Axle replacement.
    2. Alignment
    3. 120K Maintenence checkup
    4. Replacement of spark plugs, timing belt, water pump, crankshaft seal, cam seal, and antifreeze.

    I thought the cost was high, but maybe it wasn't so bad.

    I got this mechanic by asking my local dealership if they knew of a mechanic who used to work for them who set up an independent shop. Their referral was excellent.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No, that sounds cheap actually. I think I'll use an independent next time. Good idea.

    -juice
  • blacklabelblacklabel Member Posts: 11
    I'm the guy with the '93 626 whos doors wouldn't stay locked but well thanks they lock if I hold in the handle as I lock it so that's all fine except on the driver side, rear door, the door lock nor the power window don't work. At first I thought the window was frozen but that door must have some electrical problem. A bit annoying, gotta make sure no smokers sit on that side since they can't open the window. :)

    Is this likely something simple to fix or expensive to fix?
  • jskhojskho Member Posts: 107
    I have a 93 626 also. Few years ago, the power window switches in the driver's door quit working. At first I though it was a faulty switch module. After spending $120 of labor, the tech at the dealer figured out that the pins in the wiring harness which connects the door with the door frame were corroded. He pulled out the corroded pins and replaced them. The harness itself is very expensive to replace as it comes in a set (male and female sides). I am glad the technician was willing to fix it instead of replacing the whole thing.

    The corrosion is probably due to the fact that the car was hit on the driver side and the body shop probably did not do a good job when reinstalling the door after repairing it. The rubber boot was not covering the harness entirely allowing moisture to enter. After the pins were replaced, I used some black silicone to seal the gap and it has been working ever since.
  • gstern1994gstern1994 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 97 ES Auto with 63K on the clock. I'm about to go in and get the timing belt done. Also though, I 've been getting a pretty bad vibration (front wheels throught to the steering wheel) at speeds above 60mph, with it almost disapearing by 80mph. Is this a result of poor wheel balancing or a tire irregularity? The alignment is dead on, and at lower speeds everything tracks fine? Any ideas on what this might be?

    Next item:
    I know that the low profile tires on the car (Eagle GT's - replacements) are going to ride rough, but this car seems feel every bump and imperfection in the road. The car handles confidently, in fact it is one of it's best quality's - but the ride is not well damped in the least. Is there anything obvious I can do for this? I believe the shocks and struts to be in good shape as well.

    Lastly, what maintainence should I be doing at this 63K point besides the timing belt to keep this puppy running for another 60k?

    Thank you in advance for all the advice.

    gstern1994@cs.com
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We just had the front wheel hub and bearing replaced, and it was producing a sound that went "chunk chunk chunk" and varied with speed.

    Before that we had an axle boot that tore, and the axle grease leaked out and got noisy, too. You can inspect the axle boot visually to see if it's OK.

    It could also be tire/wheel balance, or uneven tire pressue. The latter could also be causing the stiff ride.

    -juice
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Rotate the front tires to the back and vice versa and see if it goes away or is substantially changed. If so, you've got a tire/wheel combination a tad out of balance. (It's possible that one tire is out of round, but this is less common; still, if it is, better to have it on the back.)

    Tire pressure is semi-critical on these cars: 35 psi is about as high as I'd go up front, maybe 32 psi for the rear.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    These are recommendations in addition to the recommended schedule in the owners manual. I've found that following these procedures minimizes unnecessary repairs.

    1. If any cam or crankshaft seals are leaking when you change the timing belt also get them replaced. Change at 120K regardless.

    2. If the seals are good, change over to Valvoline Maxlife. Reduces oil consumption, sludge, and specially conditions seals to hopefully last to 120K. My cam and crankshaft seals went at 110K and required duplicate repair. Maxlife is a cheap way to help ensure that they can last.

    3. I always change out the Brake and Power steering fluid every 30,000 miles.

    4. Change transmission fluid every 15K with automatic, and every 30K with manual. Recommend adding Lubegard to preserve transmission integrity, condition seals, reduce acids, and lower operating temperatures. Recommended by my Mazda specialist mechanic.

    5. Check struts for leaks. If they leak replace them immediately.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    If the tire balancing shows them to be in balance, and alignment is correct, in my opinion you need to look at suspension issues.

    Have a mechanic with steering components expertise intensively inspect the following: wheel bearings, control arms, A arm, tie rods, ball joints, struts and strut mounts. One or more components may be worn out. When I bought the car at 60K I had a similar vibration and ignored it for 40 thousand miles. Big mistake. We wore out some non-wearing components like the power control arm on one side. Expensive. Don't wait.

    My Mazda has a much better road feel without jarring when I switched to KYB g/2 struts. The original Struts were leaking. They are softer initially, but really firm up in harsher conditions when needed. I like the ride much better. Responsive, and can feel the road without any jarring.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    I really liked the restoration of power when I spent a little over $100 for a pressurized fuel injector cleaning. I will now do that at least every 60K.
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