Mazda 626

windowphobe6 · March 2002

Redline is 6500 rpm (7000 on the V6).

Realistically, above its power peak of 5500 rpm, the 2.0 does little more than process gasoline into noise (I know I've said this before at least once); in normal driving (if you call what I do "normal") I generally don't exceed 5500. The exception is noted above.

With the '93, with the same power peak but a screechy 4500-rpm torque peak, I would hit the redline about once a season. The current version of the 2.0 is tuned for torque at lower RPMs, peaking at 3000, which is about as low a shift point as I'm willing to accept.

ateixeira · March 2002

I'd still be shifting at 4000rpm, because the revs drop off for the next gear, and you want to stay close to that torque peak.

-juice

windowphobe6 · March 2002

With the 4-cylinder/5-speed, there's a substantial gap between first and second (3.31 and 1.83), all of which needs to be made up in order to land on that torque peak. (The automatic figures are 2.89 and 1.57, ratios just as far apart.) At least it doesn't seem as though they picked these gears specifically to get high numbers on the US government mileage test.

talkcars24 · March 2002

I have a 90 Mazda and wondered if anyone has had this problem. This car has a HOLD button on the automatic gear shift. As I was driving down the street, the HOLD light started blinking on the instrument panel where the gears are displayed. But the HOLD "word" does not light up on the gear shift where the gears are displayed. The HOLD button is in the OFF setting (appears to be broken and I never use that feature). Based on this, I don't think the HOLD feature is activated. Is that normally true? Also the Speedometer stopped working at the same time. Could this be a fuse or something more serious? What are risks of driving the car?
Thanks.

windowphobe6 · March 2002

Light flashing, speedo quits working? This can be only one of one thing: vehicle speed sensor, which advises the transmission and runs the speedo, is shot. In the absence of this data, the tranny will shift based on other factors, which may not be the ones you're used to, but it's not necessarily harmful. Don't put off the replacement, though.

And when HOLD works (and there are no other codes lurking), the light does not flash: it remains on until the switch is activated or the engine is shut off.

jema01 · March 2002

I had a 94 Mazda Protege with automatic transmission with Hold button. My hold button started flashing and my speedometer stopped working when the speedometer cable came loose under the dashboard. Going under the dash, I was able to reach up and reconnect the cable, thus solving the problem. After that, the hold button worked properly (it disables automatic speed change operation, handy in bad weather or steep inclines).

naz_sparky · April 2002

The car has 88700 miles on it. Ran fine after I bought it at 88K miles. Then suddenly the CEL light came on and the engine started to idle erratically. I live at 7000 ft above sea level and the car spend the 88K miles down at seal level, could this be causing this problem? The CEL light now stays on and sometimes blinks. Any help will be appreciated.

ateixeira · April 2002

Blinking is bad. It's usually a sign to stop driving the car. A solid light isn't as serious.

Let's hope it's just a bad oxygen sensor. Though I'd recommend changing it yourself. A dealer charged me a whoppping $220 just for the part, and an arm and a leg overall. I saw an aftermarket one later for $70 or so. You may want to try that yourself.

-juice

ian18 · April 2002

I used Bosch O2 sensors, much cheaper and seemed better quality than the OEMs. Do not pay the dealer pricing!

kkakko · April 2002

Has anyone here experienced this? Every time my AC compressor starts working I can hear a loud noise. The dealer says it is nornal. Is it?

maltb · April 2002

The click is the compressor clutch engaging; normal for any car with A/C.

pcollins1216 · April 2002

I bought my first Mazda 626 LX-2002 last week and I just finished reading most of these posts and I must say..I am a little concerned now about the car that I bought. Right now, I am at 1200 miles already but no problems so far. I loved every minute that I have been in it but now I am scared after reading all these posts.

ateixeira · April 2002

Keep something in mind - people come to a site like this because they have an issue and seek help or advice. So you see a disproportionate amount of complaints. It's true with any car.

At least the auto tranny has received upgrades, and it seems there are fewer complaints for the 2000 and later models.

Service is up to you, so make sure to follow the maintenance intervals properly. I'd have the ATF flushed every 30k miles, and in between make sure all the fluid levels (especially ATF) are topped off.

Plus, you could get an extended warranty. Either way, don't worry about the tranny until 50k miles.

-juice

fwatson · April 2002

Check this link. It will help show you what the reliability situation is for the 626. Notice that from 97 up it has all green and white marks.

The red and white x marks before that reflect some problems that are rather costly to repair. Click on those marks to find out exactly what the problems were.

http://carpoint.msn.com/vip/UsedRelOver/Mazda/626/Used.asp

Consumer Reports shows the 626 has always been average to above average in reliability. Recent models are shown above average.

windowphobe6 · April 2002

Some people make a practice of it. Over at Car Talk this past week, some cretinous goon wasted four or five screens listing every single page he could find on the Web that was even marginally critical of Mazda. (In fact, it started out at ten or eleven screens, since he lifted the entire 626 Transmission FAQ though the miracle of cut and paste; I shot that down with due dispatch.) Fortunately, it's usually easy to distinguish the folks who want help with problems from the folks who fancy themselves to be on a Mission from God.

Current status: 18 months with a 2000 LX, and no unscheduled service other than patching a hole in the windshield (obviously not the fault of the car) and replacing a wiper blade bent by a vandal (ditto). I'm doing a 5000-mile (roughly) trip this summer, and I'm not worried in the least; last year's 4400-mile jaunt was a breeze, except for certain body parts. (This car has good seats, but you really need great seats to do trips this long.)

jonbgood · April 2002

I've got a '99 626 LX 4cyl with automatic tranny. I've got 60k flawless miles on the car. Nothing unscheduled as of yet other than I just replaced the OEM battery the other day. The car is as solid as the day I bought it. The car doesn't lose ANY fluids. I have the oil changed every 3750 miles and rotate the tires every other oil change. The bottom line is the car looks and runs great. So much better looking imho than an Accord. Enjoy your car and if you take care of it - it will do great!!!

ateixeira · April 2002

Bummer - exhaust on our '95 is leaking. Wife says it sounds like the Bat Mobile now. ;-)

Aren't the exhausts stainless on the V6 models? Guess not. I haven't seen the car yet, but I will tonight.

-juice

ifkz · April 2002

Wow, this seems to be a quality board. I found it today and have been thankfully reassured about my transmission worries. Anyway I am looking for a few opinions from the regulars here (juice & windowphobe6 come to mind).

I bought a black 1998 626 LX V6 from a private party in December of 2001 at a cost of $9300 (Austin, TX). TT&L added $600. It came with the standard equipment plus ABS, an after market amp, and a set of new speakers. The mileage was 5,800 at the time of sale.

On top of this I paid $400 to get the interior redone (1st owner was a smoker who used the seats as an ashtray). The rear bumper is dented on the right and some paint has been scratched off on the left. Mechanically it is fine; this was the main selling point in my mind.

Any thoughts on this, did I overpay?

What I did after the sale: changed the oil/filter (at every 3K), replaced the antifreeze, replaced the air filter, installed new wipers, and I aired up the tires. I also rotated the tires a little late at 11,000 miles last week. I've washed it every two to three weeks and have waxed it once.

I am really considering changing the transmission fluid when I hit the 15,000 mark. Any advice? Should I use a dealer or an independent transmission shop? Any news on the transmission flush machines?

Thanks in advance.

-ifkz

tomcat630 · April 2002

Sounds like an OK deal to me, with the low miles and V6 especially.

windowphobe6 · April 2002

It won't hurt to change out the tranny fluid. This is the GF4A-EL box, which is not the one most people complain about. I had the GF on my '93 flushed regularly with no problems.

Edmunds.com's TMV for this car with that mileage in "average" condition is $9347, so it doesn't look like you overpaid. (The bumps and bruises are offset by the low miles.)

Zoom away and enjoy it....

pcollins1216 · April 2002

Thank you for responding. It made me feel good. I am now up to 1500 miles. I drive almost 60 miles a day. SO far so good...I am taking my first day trip this weekend to Austin in my new car and I am excited. It's gonna be a nice ZOOM ZOOM trip for me.

ateixeira · April 2002

ifkz: no way, you got a steal. Given you're fixing it up, cleaning it nicely, I think you'll come out on top.

5800 miles is not even broken in yet. You sure the odometer wasn't turned back?

-juice

ifkz · April 2002

Hi guys, thanks for responding so quickly!

windowphobe6: Thanks for the info about my transmission model number. You wouldn't believe the sense of relief I have now that I know it isn't the troublesome Ford tranny. Where do you get your transmission flushed, at the dealer or a specialty shop (Jiffylube, etc)?

juice: Thanks for the reasurance, it always helps! Here is my backstory on the car history:

It was purchased for a price of $23K in '98. The woman that owned it was an ex-gymnast who suffers from severe back injuries and is often heavily medicated. After dinging a few spots on the car (mostly confined to the bumper), she came to the conclusion that she was no longer fit to drive. She transferred title to her mother in anticipation of a dealership trade in, but changed her mind at the last minute and regained title.

The car sat around for awhile longer until she decided to sell it through the Austin classifieds.

I had looked around at new cars under the Kia and Hyundai brands but I wasn't impressed. The used cars at the local lots seemed abused, overpriced, and 'fishy.' My maximum budget was $10K of hard saved money.

My dad found the ad over breakfast and I cautiously answered it. I knew Mazda was a well respected and a quality brandname, which really helped. I brought a seasoned mechanic along (a family member), he checked it out and pronounced it as new and garaged for most of its life. I gained the above backstory by asking "What is the story on it?" instead of "What is wrong with it?" The often used later question apparently killed a few prior offers before I came onto the vehicle.

In between getting the money wired from my bank, I checked the title history on Carfax.com and it checked out. She also supplied me with a recent dealer inspection showing that the car checked out.

The fluids were changed promptly and a few other things were done (see the prior e-mail). The woman was also convinced to spend an extra $1K on an after market sound system (why?) which I have half removed and a Viper alarm system (removed also). I prefer to have the car as stock as possible.

The remaining issues are related to the sound system. In May I will take the car into the local Mazda dealer to get a quote on opening the passenger side panel to restore the lock to a fully functional state.

Anyhow, I hope it was entertaining. I am now up to 11,500 miles on the car and am coming up on an oil change (every 3K) and a transmission flush (b/c of fluid age and 100 degree Texas weather). Please leave a little feedback, it is always appreciated!

--ifkz

windowphobe6 · April 2002

I had mine done at the dealership; I reasoned that the dealer (1) had to have a proper flush machine and (2) had someone capable of running it, since by this point there were CD4Es floating around and they don't have pans you can drop with any degree of panache.

Since you can drop the pan, though, I'd suggest you have it done around 30k, just to get the filter changed.

kaspar10 · April 2002

I recently purchased a new (leftover) 2001 626, 4 cyl 5sp. I love the car!!! I want to thank all those who contribute to Edmund's Town Hall. It was one of the major sources of info. When I hit 1000 miles I wanted to get the break in oil and filter changed. I checked the level and it was over filled from the factory. We all know that the dip stick is round steel that is flattened on the end and has the markings on it. The level was above the line and the "F". It was at the point where the metal flattens out from the round shaft. At most a 1/4 inch over the line. I went to Jiffy Lube and had them change it. I explained that it held 3.5 US Qts. It really holds 3.7 with the filter change, but I said 3.5. I watched and the digital readout said 3.5 exact. Fine, when I got home I checked it and it was over filled and to the same point as the factory. I checked the level parked else where and it was the same. I called the Mazda 800 number and they said not to worry. The dipstick was most likely not calibrated correctly. They said it would hold at least 4 Qts without being over filled. I checked with the dealer, we went to the service dept and spoke with them. They said the same thing, not to worry, holds 4 Qts or more, dipstick not right. They even pulled a new 2002 and checked its oil, same thing!!!! Over filled to the same level. OK, this is getting long so I will mention that i went to my old mechanic and he said the same as the others. Dipstick could be wrong, the tube that holds the dipstick could be too short or inserted into the block too far. All would cause this. We are talking about a small amount. He even mentioned the motor by its Mazda designation, so he knows what he is talking about. Has a great rep around town for knowledge and fairness. He said it would actually hold almost 5 Qts with no problem. So, the question is simple: Is everything OK? Am I hurting the motor? Am I paranoid? THANKS!!!!!

ateixeira · April 2002

Our V6 takes about 4.5 quarts, not sure about the 4 cyl.

-juice

windowphobe6 · April 2002

Dipsticks are not what you'd call precision instruments; a 5.4-percent variance doesn't strike me as being particularly heinous, especially since the darn thing is made of metal and will change size and/or shape to a certain extent when heated.

tomcat630 · April 2002

I hope the 2001 leftover wasn't sitting around too long.

kaspar10 · April 2002

To the comment about dipsticks being made of metal, why do they also make them almost black in color? Hard to read the level of new oil. Even when the oil turns dark it will be hard to read against that color. Some contrasting color would have been better. It is a good thing that this is all I have to complain about!!! Nothing major like something fell off or it stopped running. To the question of the car sitting around too much being a leftover 2001, I don't feel that is much of a concern. The car had some miles on it when I got it, but not many. I got such a great deal on this car I could not pass it up. I have always purchased basic cars, it was time to get something nice.

windowphobe6 · April 2002

My 2000 spent thirteen months on two dealer lots (in two different states, yet!) before I took it home. Total test-drive mileage was around 300. I'm not worrying.

kaspar10 · April 2002

My car had a few more miles than that, but still no worries. I was looking at econo cars, I am saving money to purchase a house in a few years, so I wanted to conserve. This car being a year model old was only slightly higher, so I went for it. I am glad I did. I would like to get a set of nicer hubcaps or wheels. The standard equipment models are somewhat dull or maybe ugly is a truer statement.

windowphobe6 · April 2002

Yeah, but on the upside, no one is likely to heist them, either.

I had a nice set of seven-spoke Ultras on my old '93. They wouldn't have transferred to the new car, though  only fourteen-inchers, they were, and I have certain qualms about futzing with wheel sizes in front-drivers.

kaspar10 · April 2002

Looking on the bright side is always a good thing, but maybe it would be nice if some one did steal them!!! I agree about being careful about changing wheel sizes, lots of bad things could happen. Speedo out of whack, different handling traits, etc. I don't want to spend a lot of money on wheels. Not many choices for nice hubcaps though. I think they want to limit the choices so you might consider wheels instead. That's the way of the world......

windowphobe6 · April 2002

And, of course, if you wanted alloy wheels for a 626 LX, you bought them yourself and tried to figure out something to do with the OEM steel wheels, or you paid through the schnozzola for the Premium Package and perhaps got an option you didn't want. Confusion reigns rampant once more.

jonbgood · April 2002

The biggest compliment I get on my '99 626 LX is regarding the alloy wheels. The 626 wheel covers (in my opinion) are not very attractive whereas the alloy wheels are some of the best I've seen. I did buy the premium pkg and I'm glad I did. If you're going to drive a car until the wheels come off - make sure you buy what looks good to YOU. It will make it much harder to justify to yourself spending money on a new (or newer) car.

jjpeter · May 2002

I have been seeing some interesting photos and a promise of boosts in power 4 & 6 cylinder models for upcoming 03 626. Anyone have any in-depth report web links to share? The car sounds like a big improvement over the current generation and would seriously consider purchasing it if all holds out to be true.

maltb · May 2002

Look up the Mazda 6 topic in here. The 626 and Millenia are going away after the 2002MY and are being replaced by the Mazda 6.

pat · May 2002

Maybe this will help: Mazda 6.

maltb · May 2002

Thanks Pat

skibry1 · June 2002

The new babies are a wee bit bigger than our
Doubleought 626.Much new(no longevity record)
technolgy has gone into these sweeties and I
enjoy the new lines. I haven't found how many
horsies are under the hood of a 2.3. I hope they
addressed some issue of us 6' 250# guys...fer
instance higher elevation of headrest-restraints
to provide optimum protection.We built ours up
3" to equal the tops of my ears...looks
like the easy chair in the front room! I also hope
they got the rear-veiw mirror button secured
at the darkened portion of the the windshield.We
moved ours up in about 1.5 hours and two utility
knife blades. I HAD a blind spot 'cause it would
not adjust any higher. Has anyone heard of a price
for a 6? My wife and I are enjoying our well spent 16K!! Thumbs UP

qbrozen · June 2002

just read it somewhere. I'm not sure where, though, but I believe it was 160-something. So, it shouldn't be too far off the current V6 performance. Not bad. But that 219 hp is calling my name ...

windowphobe6 · June 2002

That's the current story, anyway. (Initial reports were 160 hp, but I suspect emissions got in the way.) No change to the V6 spec yet. Even at 150, though, it should move out with more vigor than the 125-hp 626 does; the 6 weighs a little more, but not that much more.

Car and Driver drove a four-cylinder/5-speed preproduction model in Europe recently; they were mostly pleased, though they wanted more horsepower (duh) and they thought the shifter was a tad on the notchy side. Prices, they report, are supposed to be right about where the 626 was.

qbrozen · June 2002

just out of curiosity, where did that number come from? Was it from that same C&D article?

windowphobe6 · June 2002

Presumably it was given them by Mazda reps. This may be similar to the incident with the MX-5/Miata a few years back, when they announced one HP figure in advance and then had to backpedal when final emissions calibrations reduced it.

hecep · June 2002

Greetings, All! This 626 forum seems to have some pretty informative posts, so I'm hoping that one of you can come to the rescue. I have a '93 626 DX (120K miles). Over the past 2 years, I've had the tranny (inevitable!), timing belt, hoses, and struts changed out. My last tune-up was about 1 month ago. Over the last three years, I've been experiencing a problem with steering wheel vibration, i.e., whenever I'm stopped -- say at a light -- the wheel shakes like a wet puppy with the DTs. The vibration is especially pronounced when the A/C is on. The wheel and the steering column shake so much, that the car keys practically fly! Any ideas or personal experiences/solutions out there? Thanks!

janydots2 · June 2002

hey...I am looking for some advice...I am a single mom who is considering giving up a 2dr Honda Civic for a four door 95 626 with 124,000 miles on it. The asking price is 5 thousand or best offer. What do you all think? Is it worth it? Has it got the potential to be a maintainence nightmare?
any suggestions or words of wisdom would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Jenny
Janydots@yahoo.com

hecep · June 2002

If your potential buy has the automatic transmission, beware. I found out the hard way about that particular hassle, with my tranny going out after about 110,000 miles. Cost me $2800, not including what I shelled out for the rental car. Based on my own internet search a few months ago, it seems that this has been a systemic problem with the 626's (from '93 on up to just recently) and possibly related to overheating. I've seen many angry internet posts on this, with posters screaming "recall", and with nothing but silence from Mazda's side of the aisle. That was backed up by the knowing nods, chuckles, and comments I got from the folks at the transmission shop. "Happens a lot to the 626's", they said. If the one you're looking at just had its transmission replaced or fully overhauled, then there's no reason to not expect 100,000 miles from it. If it's the original, though...

Other than this (and the steering vib prob mentioned in my previous post), I've been fairly satisfied with my '93 626.

Good luck, and if your seller says that the tranny is new/reworked, make him PROVE it.

qbrozen · June 2002

Well, you didn't specify what model, V6 or 4-cyl., stick or auto. BUT, even a clean ES with that many miles is not worth anywhere near $5K. Just plug the info. into Edmunds used car page here and see for yourself. You should be paying somewhere between trade-in and private party numbers.

ateixeira · June 2002

The shifter in the one at the NY Auto Show felt fine to me. I loved how the wagon's rear seat would pop down at the push of a button. It's spring loaded, and very clever.

FYI, we sold our 626. Got $6500 for our '95 ES 5 speed, pretty good resale after 71k miles and 7+ years. Price we got was well above Edmunds' price, closer to KBB's dealer price. :-)

It had been in the shop 5 times in the past year or so, and with the wife expecting our 2nd child we decided to get a wagon (2002 Legacy L). Too bad the new 6 wasn't available yet, I would have liked to have tried it.

Hector: I'm guessing - bad engine mount?

Jenny: price sounds high for the mileage. Even for an ES.

-juice

pat · June 2002

The Town Hall is about to take on a new look in an effort to make content more easily searchable and accessible.

Have you seen the Letter from the Town Hall Manager on the Town Hall Welcome page? If not, you might want to follow that link to have a look.

And hang on to your seats. Change is never easy - for any of us - but resolving the Search problems we've had will be worth the pain.

Pat
Sedans Host

Mazda 626

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