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Mazda 626

1202123252640

Comments

  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    At that mileage, I would say your engine mounts are worn out. Get those replaced and the engine should idle much smoother.
  • hecephecep Member Posts: 10
    I'll definitely look at the mounts.

    A friend here at worked suggested adjusting the idle speed, but I recently had a tune-up, and the vibration before that matches what I'm now experiencing; no change at all.

    Thanks, again.
  • fducoeurfducoeur Member Posts: 1
    Any suggestions on selling my 1999 626?
    My lease payoff is $13,900, with 28 months remaining on lease at $261/month. It's in great shape, only 29,700 miles. Lease is assumable. Any suggestions/ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thank You!
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    recently buy a 626 at a big discount? Is the car worth it with the kickin 6 on the way? Have a family friend interested in new car, needs a familyish reliable model, cannot yet afford the Camry/Accords.
    ~alpha
  • blacklabelblacklabel Member Posts: 11
    Hey man I got a '93 626 auto also with 131k miles. I got it like 7 months ago. The tranny shifts quite rough much of the time... but it hasn't gone yet. I brought it to a tranny place to have fluid changed since it was never done and the mechanic appearantly said nothing was wrong thus far... but who knows it could go anytime.

    But it also shakes when stopped at a light. And yes!... I thought maybe the idle... because when it warms up (which is only a couple minutes now its summer) it seems to shake more and the rpms are only about 500... I dunno if thats it. Engine mounts sound likely, but I also read on a 626 site that a common problem of the shaking was from radiator mounts.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Most people think that an assumable lease means that the original purchaser is off the hook. Generally this is not so. If you have another assume the lease and they beat it or more likely drive excess miles the leasing company can collect from you and them.

    Of course companies allow assumable leases. It's to their benefit.

    If you want them to completely take over the lease a separate document would have to be signed, together with some extra money to make it completely binding.
  • drleitedrleite Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at a 1990 626DX. It has 275,000 miles and is listed for $1,990 by the dealer. The car looks to be in exceptional condition. Does anyone have any thoughts on whether or not this is a reasonable price for the car considering the high mileage.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Is that a typo?? 275,000!! I wouldn't touch this car for any kind of money! Especially a DX. It has nothing to offer that you can't find in another car with far less miles for less money.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • mrflintasticmrflintastic Member Posts: 1
    i'm considering purchasing a 98 LX V6 5spd 57k. Anyone know of any common problems with this particular model?
  • ghuletghulet Member Posts: 2,564
    Check autotrader.com if you want to find an older 626; I found an '88 LX hatchback w/120k miles for $950 recently. $1990 is way out of line for any car with 275k miles.
  • tomcat630tomcat630 Member Posts: 854
    The high mile 626 should be worth $800, to me. Even then, one never know when it will konk out.
  • axeman42axeman42 Member Posts: 1
    check the vin on the vehicle and post it here. I had a 90 626 DX with 275,000 miles on it (no typo people) and I donated it to charity. The car was gray with a gray interior, had mudguards on all four fenders, and custom sideblinkers were installed on both front fenders. It had a cell phone antenna installed on the rear window. If this is the vehicle stay away from it, although I bought it new ( still have the bill of sale) and it gave me great service it needed major work when I donated it. At the time it was donated the A/C was inop. the tie rods needed replacing, and the tranny was slipping on the 2-3 upshift. This was the 3rd auto tranny for the car.
  • agentduncanagentduncan Member Posts: 2
    I have lousy radio reception (one AM station only). I suspect the antenna is unplugged from the radio. My problem is I can't find any maintenance/repair manual for a 1997 Mazda 626 and have no clue how to remove the radio to check the antenna connection. Can anyone help? Or is radio reception just poor for everyone?

    Thanks

    Dan
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Mazda says you need a tool to pull the stereo, but all you're actually doing is pushing down four spring-loaded clips, two on each side, which are covered by plastic bits. (This assumes that they didn't change the stereo head unit all these years; I learned this on a '93.) Once you have access to the clips, maintain equal pressure on both sides and the unit should be slidable.

    It's possible that the power antenna itself is at fault, but usually when this happens, it's painfully obvious.
  • agentduncanagentduncan Member Posts: 2
    I figured it would be something fairly simple. I'll have to give it a try tomorrow.

    Dan
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Wal-mart sells a set of U-shaped tools for doing that(Less than $4). I have used 6d finishing nails but it makes it a little more tricky. With the right tool you just insert and push away from each other while sliding the audio unit out; very simple.
  • ian18ian18 Member Posts: 133
    You can make an excellent tool for taking out the car stereo using a wire hanger. The unit should be a snap to take out, however in my case the spring clips had been jammed in during the car assembly and I could not release them. I had to remove most of the dash to get to the back side. It was no fun but eventually I got it out.
  • mrpetermrpeter Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys.
    Just bought myself an '87 mazda 626 LX w/ 111k mi. Excelent condition. Grey w/ red interior. They guy wanted 2 grand, but we gave him $1600. Sounds like it runs fine, tranny is smooth. Any of you pro's out there can lemme know if i did ok with this buy? kbb.com says 2.1 g's would be good, but i dont trust a computer as much as a mechanic...

    Come to think of it, i dont trust mechanics either :) (just kiddin guys! no offense)

    Thanks a lot!
    Peter
  • notaporschenotaporsche Member Posts: 7
    Just wondering if anyone has experienced this problem.

    My air climate controls are screwing up on my 93 626 and I'm wondering how easy it would be to fix it myself. The actuator that switches from feet to front to window settings is 'clunking' or not switching. Plus, the swing vent button is not working all of a sudden. Is there a bad ground here? Is the wiring just starting to go? (250,000 km on it) or is the vent door or whatever the hell it is just binding up?

    There are a host of other problems I've fixed or have to fix. I only want to tackle one thing at a time. God what a money pit.
  • notaporschenotaporsche Member Posts: 7
    Well, I had a look at my climate control problem last evening. I was surprised the actuator motor was so accessible (near gas pedal). After much fiddling around switching buttons and watching and listening I have figured out the problem is mechanical and not electrical. The top gate seem to be having trouble swinging and is 'clicking' really loud when switched. So its an internal problem. The gate is probably plastic crap and a hinge might have broken or something. This means I have to live with this or go through a huge job ripping out the dash board to get at the air box. I'm afraid if I let this go it will burn out the actuator motor (which is several hundred dollars). The car is starting to show its age when the plastic parts start to fail.

    Par for the course.
  • maters04maters04 Member Posts: 1
    I recently found a 1996 Mazda 626 V6 LX for $3350. I was wondering if you guys could tell me if its a good deal. It has 136K miles on it. Interior looks great as well does the exterior. We are going to test drive it tonight. Let me know your thoughts! Thanks everybody!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    I'll just assume its an automatic.
    Sounds good to me. I think the V6 is a great engine and should hold up. As long as its as clean as you say, that's a decent price. Maybe they'll even go down a little for you.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • captandy1captandy1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey folks...considering buying a 2000 ES 4 cylinder with 50,000 miles on it. Asking 12,900...we're sitting at 10,900 now. Any problems with this vehicle????
  • verozahlverozahl Member Posts: 574
    Mazda 626 is a relatively popular sedan in Ann Arbor among U-M students. Nothing exciting, but it gets the job done. Reliable. Nice styling. But no power... >:(
  • streach1streach1 Member Posts: 2
    how do i find the timing marks, and replace the timing belt on a Mazda 626 1994 Dual Overhead cam
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Is this a 4-cyl. automatic? Uh.... not sure if this holds true for '00 model year or not, but look back to see many many complaints of automatic tranny failure in 4-cyl. models.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • streach1streach1 Member Posts: 2
    4 cylinder automatic
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    These were four-cylinder cars with ES-level trim, offered with automatic only, and only for a couple of model years.

    The LA4A-EL/CD4E tranny had been substantially reworked by 1999, though not all the '99s got the last batch of changes.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    They're marked I and E and should point straight at one another.

    The tricky part, though, is getting to the belt, which is going to require, among other things, attacking the crankshaft pulley with a steering-wheel puller. Not a lot of room to work in there.
  • newtomenewtome Member Posts: 2
    I have been a VERY happy 5 sp. 323 owner since 1989 (230K on original eng. & trans., only clutch replacement at 198K). (I know -- I've been very lucky!!) Got rear-ended recently and am now thinking of purchasing a low mileage (just over 40K) 92 626. Read about 1/2 this forum and it appears that the AT in the 92 doesn't have the 94 probs. The car checks out well on Carfax and I will test drive it tomorrow.

    My questions are:
    - Are there any red flags I should look for during my inspection and road test?
    - What can I expect as far as reliability and frequency of repair (assuming its one owner took good care of the car)?
    - Also, I don't have a mechanic in the area where the car is located. Does anyone here have experience using Magoo's Automotive Consultants linked from Carfax? Do you have other suggestions on getting a professional's opinion before I fork over the $.
    - The seller's asking price appears to be based on the Kelley Blue Book Private Party value rather than the Edmonds TMV. What justification can I use to get the selling price closer to the TMV?

    Thanks so much for all your help.
  • kaspar10kaspar10 Member Posts: 11
    I recently purchased a new 626 4 cyl 5sp. I wonder if the A/C is working properly. It cools fine, but the compressor has a 5 second cycle. On for 5 seconds, then off for 5 seconds, etc. This is the first car I have purchased with the new type of freon so I am not sure if it is suppose to run like this or not. The old type of freon did not run like this. Of course the dealer says it is normal (I wonder if it were out of warranty whether that determination would change?), The Mazda "tech" helpline email address and 800 telephone number both end up telling me to contact the dealer, which has the above mentioned result........any ideas????
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    The idea is to run the compressor as little as possible, thereby creating the lowest possible power drain on the engine, which must be reckoned a Good Thing on a smallish four-cylinder. You've probably noticed that it cuts out entirely when you push harder on the gas.

    I would worry about this only if the transition from Off to On and back again causes any noticeable side effects, such as the engine seeming to bog down.
  • tirekicker6tirekicker6 Member Posts: 8
    I am shopping for a 626 ES--though if I wait long enough I might get tempted by the new 6 model. A seeming oddity I have found--on dealer inventories on Mazda's website some models are designated as "MC6" rather than as LX or ES. Does anybody know what this means? I emailed the dealership about this, but the message was returned because their mailbox was full (nice being responsive to customer inquiries).

    Also would be interested in anybody's experiences with 2002 626s, pro or (especially) con.

    Thanks.
  • kaspar10kaspar10 Member Posts: 11
    I purchased a 626 earlier this spring, I was shopping for an economy car, but the price on a 626 was only slightly higher, so I went for it. I am glad I did! Good stuff: ride, handling, comfort, economy, quality, reliability record and PRICE. The so-so: looks, stereo and maybe performance. I have a 4 cyl 5 spd which is OK, but not if you are into speeding on a regular basis. There is really nothing I would classify as bad. Of course a person has to have their goals set and find a car to fit those goals. If I wanted performance I might have gone for a Sentra SER Spec V. More luxury I would consider a Camry (less noise inside). I am very happy with my choice. It fit my needs and price. Nothing can beat the prices on a 626. All others in this class sell for lots more. Big discounts on the eve of the new 6. Other cars in this class are new and get sticker or near sticker it seems. Camry, Altima were new for 2002; Accord will be new in 2003. NO discounts on the outgoing Accord model, it's still a Honda with a Honda price (and attitude from the dealer). I have no regrets, but lots of satisfaction!!!!
  • tirekicker6tirekicker6 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the input on the new 626. I'm driving a '94 LX with the 4 cyl and auto (driving in LA, having a stick just makes you pine for the wide open spaces), and I've been happy with it, despite having had to fix just about all the known bugs on this model year, with the exception of the infamous transmission. On the 2002 ES, I've just been given a quote for the INVOICE price, minus the 3k rebate. Mighty sweet. I'll probably go for it.

    BTW, my auto dealer gave me the reason for the MC. He said that, for some unknown reason, Mazda decided to change the trim designation from ES to MC halfway through the model year, so I guess that means if you come across a 626 MC V6, it's a 2002.5 model, if that means anything.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    So have you actually seen this yet? Does it say "MC" on the trunk, rather than ES?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Once you get up to speed, the 626 is actually pretty good at it, if only because it's so innocuous-looking that the gendarmes don't notice it; it's the polar opposite of, say, a red Corvette.

    Still, you don't win many stoplight races with this car, especially with the four.
  • tirekicker6tirekicker6 Member Posts: 8
    Haven't actually seen the car yet. But the dealer says it's an ES.

    And I agree, windowphobe, it's fun on the freeways, whether it's the 4 or 6. Once you get it up into overdrive, the 4 just kinda skims along. Very enjoyable, though I'm looking forward to a little compare/contrast once I get V6. You can take the handling for granted, too, until you do what I did and rent an Impala on a vacation. Frightened various family members taking some curves a little too fast with my mumbled defense, "My 626 coulda taken that no sweat." The zoom zoom in action, although with that styling it's like a wolf in wing tips and a bad business suit.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    Fortunately, when you drive it, you're on the inside and don't have to look at it.

    Actually, I don't think it's that bad, though I'm on record as insisting that the 2000 facelift was heavy-handed and overwrought - too much shiny stuff grafted on. Unfortunately, you had to buy that brightwork to get the suspension and steering tweaks in the '00. A fair trade, yes, but it runs counter to what I imagine as the spirit of Zoom².
  • tirekicker6tirekicker6 Member Posts: 8
    I was actually invited by Mazda to be part of a focus group for the new 626 design soon after I bought mine back in '94. I gave it a thumbs-down, told them the current design was unique and part of what attracted me to the car in the first place while the redesign seemed calculated to bland in with every other Japanese sedan on the road. Was not invited to stay on for the small-group discussions. I got a hundred bucks and didn't even have to work a full day. But I guess they didn't need any naysayers in the crowd that day.

    Now here I am buying one. So I guess looks aren't everything.
  • kaspar10kaspar10 Member Posts: 11
    Although I agree that the 626 is kind of dull, it is not ugly. It is clean, neat and well balanced, a design that will look good for years. Since I tend to own cars for a while, that is important to me. What can you really do with a four door sedan design anyway? It is limited. Nissan took a bold route, which is good, however the Altima may look dated quickly. Like their current truck design. The tail lights on the Altima are a trendy item which will not age well. The Accord and Camry take a very conservative approach. I had to look at the total package and see what fit me the best. Other people may make other choices, for other reasons. That is fine. I like my choice!
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    Back in Doubleought when looking to replace our 14yr old car(12 of which it resided in our garage) the above criteria was why I'm now a proud member of this discussion group.We test drove several autos.
    Our sound decision keeps zoom/zoomin' along with only regular visits to our mechanic's shop for oil
    change,tire rotate,filter checks,etc. and his coffee!! The latter was for me not our 130 ponies.
    Thumbs Up USA Bryan
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    A lot depends on whether it's important that your vehicle Make A Statement for you. Personally, I'd rather make my own statements rather than delegate the job to an inanimate object, even one with which it's possible to bond. (Sandy and I have done two extensive road trips totalling around 9000 miles, but I'd never ask her to speak up in my behalf.)
  • tirekicker6tirekicker6 Member Posts: 8
    Hey, relax, everybody. I just got my new 626 home. It's now officially One Of The Most Beautiful Things On Earth. Only Uma Thurman in Dangerous Liaisons has sleeker curves.
  • hmamontovhmamontov Member Posts: 10
    Hi

    Want to put synthetic oil in my 626 on the next service. Which one do you recommend? I have 24000 now, will change oil on 25, probably.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    I've been putting Mobil1 synthetic in my 2000 since the second oil change. It's highly recommended in many circles (including the Probe/MX6/626 FAQ site), and seems to be available at most of auto parts stores I frequent.
  • hmamontovhmamontov Member Posts: 10
    Nice. It's good to hear that synthetic is OK. I'm in Florida and some of my frends have reccomended me to use 10W-40 instead of 5W-30. What do you suggest? Which make is the best for 626? Mobil, Shell, Castrol etc???
  • skibry1skibry1 Member Posts: 174
    Our doubleought has 130hp and we still use pure.
    We want to get opec out of our pockets. What
    viscoity for a 4cyl?
  • ganapatiganapati Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking of buying 2001 Mazda 626 which has about 20000miles. The dealer price is $12K.
    Is this a good car. There are about 4 cars 2000 and 2001 626s around that price range.
    Pickup seems to be sluggish. Otherwise seems like a good car.
    Any comment is appreciated
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    I've got the V-6, so I'm putting in 10W-30 as recommended by the manual. I'm guessing 5W-30 is recommended for the I-4, right? My wife's Taurus has a 3.8L V-6 (my 626 is only a 2.5L), and Ford recommends 5W-30 for that, although it can also take 10W-30. I'm guessing the aluminum alloy block/heads in my 626 may account for the difference there.


    My point is that with most engines you have a choice. Every car I've worked on had a single recommended weight oil which is probably considered ideal for most operating conditions. You will also notice a bar chart in your manual that shows alternative oils which can be selected for use in different operating conditions. It typically shows each acceptable oil viscosity with a temperature range that it can be used in. Personally, I would try and stick to what's in the chart despite what anyone else tells you, as the manufacturer has likely tested those oils for your type of engine.


    hmamontov, you probably hear of folks in your area using heavier weight oils because engines run hotter in the Florida climate, which thins out the oil more. In the NE where I live, some folks put a lighter weight oil in for the winter when the stuff gets thick in the cold. I used to have an old Pontiac V-8 which liked 5W-30 when the temperature dropped below 20, because it had a very worn and tired valvetrain. 10W-30 was the manufacturer recommended weight, but 5W-30 and 10W-40 were on the chart for lower and higher operating temperature ranges, respectively.


    What brand of oil? That's tough to say. I think that decision should be based more on quality and availability of the product than what make of car you drive. I like Mobil1 because it's considered by most to be a high quality synthetic, and it's easy to get in my area (although more costly than most others). There's some discussion about various synthetic oils on the Probe/MX6/626 FAQ at:


    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/index.htm


    Definitely check out the site even if you use a mechanic to maintain your 626. Whoever put it together really seems to be very knowledgeable about Mazdas. I've used the site a few times to perform maintenance on my 626 (not ready to fork over $100 for the factory shop manual yet), and I've found it to be very accurate and thorough.

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