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Comments
A friend here at worked suggested adjusting the idle speed, but I recently had a tune-up, and the vibration before that matches what I'm now experiencing; no change at all.
Thanks, again.
My lease payoff is $13,900, with 28 months remaining on lease at $261/month. It's in great shape, only 29,700 miles. Lease is assumable. Any suggestions/ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thank You!
~alpha
But it also shakes when stopped at a light. And yes!... I thought maybe the idle... because when it warms up (which is only a couple minutes now its summer) it seems to shake more and the rpms are only about 500... I dunno if thats it. Engine mounts sound likely, but I also read on a 626 site that a common problem of the shaking was from radiator mounts.
Of course companies allow assumable leases. It's to their benefit.
If you want them to completely take over the lease a separate document would have to be signed, together with some extra money to make it completely binding.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks
Dan
It's possible that the power antenna itself is at fault, but usually when this happens, it's painfully obvious.
Dan
Just bought myself an '87 mazda 626 LX w/ 111k mi. Excelent condition. Grey w/ red interior. They guy wanted 2 grand, but we gave him $1600. Sounds like it runs fine, tranny is smooth. Any of you pro's out there can lemme know if i did ok with this buy? kbb.com says 2.1 g's would be good, but i dont trust a computer as much as a mechanic...
Come to think of it, i dont trust mechanics either (just kiddin guys! no offense)
Thanks a lot!
Peter
My air climate controls are screwing up on my 93 626 and I'm wondering how easy it would be to fix it myself. The actuator that switches from feet to front to window settings is 'clunking' or not switching. Plus, the swing vent button is not working all of a sudden. Is there a bad ground here? Is the wiring just starting to go? (250,000 km on it) or is the vent door or whatever the hell it is just binding up?
There are a host of other problems I've fixed or have to fix. I only want to tackle one thing at a time. God what a money pit.
Par for the course.
Sounds good to me. I think the V6 is a great engine and should hold up. As long as its as clean as you say, that's a decent price. Maybe they'll even go down a little for you.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The LA4A-EL/CD4E tranny had been substantially reworked by 1999, though not all the '99s got the last batch of changes.
The tricky part, though, is getting to the belt, which is going to require, among other things, attacking the crankshaft pulley with a steering-wheel puller. Not a lot of room to work in there.
My questions are:
- Are there any red flags I should look for during my inspection and road test?
- What can I expect as far as reliability and frequency of repair (assuming its one owner took good care of the car)?
- Also, I don't have a mechanic in the area where the car is located. Does anyone here have experience using Magoo's Automotive Consultants linked from Carfax? Do you have other suggestions on getting a professional's opinion before I fork over the $.
- The seller's asking price appears to be based on the Kelley Blue Book Private Party value rather than the Edmonds TMV. What justification can I use to get the selling price closer to the TMV?
Thanks so much for all your help.
I would worry about this only if the transition from Off to On and back again causes any noticeable side effects, such as the engine seeming to bog down.
Also would be interested in anybody's experiences with 2002 626s, pro or (especially) con.
Thanks.
BTW, my auto dealer gave me the reason for the MC. He said that, for some unknown reason, Mazda decided to change the trim designation from ES to MC halfway through the model year, so I guess that means if you come across a 626 MC V6, it's a 2002.5 model, if that means anything.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Still, you don't win many stoplight races with this car, especially with the four.
And I agree, windowphobe, it's fun on the freeways, whether it's the 4 or 6. Once you get it up into overdrive, the 4 just kinda skims along. Very enjoyable, though I'm looking forward to a little compare/contrast once I get V6. You can take the handling for granted, too, until you do what I did and rent an Impala on a vacation. Frightened various family members taking some curves a little too fast with my mumbled defense, "My 626 coulda taken that no sweat." The zoom zoom in action, although with that styling it's like a wolf in wing tips and a bad business suit.
Actually, I don't think it's that bad, though I'm on record as insisting that the 2000 facelift was heavy-handed and overwrought - too much shiny stuff grafted on. Unfortunately, you had to buy that brightwork to get the suspension and steering tweaks in the '00. A fair trade, yes, but it runs counter to what I imagine as the spirit of Zoom².
Now here I am buying one. So I guess looks aren't everything.
Our sound decision keeps zoom/zoomin' along with only regular visits to our mechanic's shop for oil
change,tire rotate,filter checks,etc. and his coffee!! The latter was for me not our 130 ponies.
Thumbs Up USA Bryan
Want to put synthetic oil in my 626 on the next service. Which one do you recommend? I have 24000 now, will change oil on 25, probably.
We want to get opec out of our pockets. What
viscoity for a 4cyl?
Is this a good car. There are about 4 cars 2000 and 2001 626s around that price range.
Pickup seems to be sluggish. Otherwise seems like a good car.
Any comment is appreciated
My point is that with most engines you have a choice. Every car I've worked on had a single recommended weight oil which is probably considered ideal for most operating conditions. You will also notice a bar chart in your manual that shows alternative oils which can be selected for use in different operating conditions. It typically shows each acceptable oil viscosity with a temperature range that it can be used in. Personally, I would try and stick to what's in the chart despite what anyone else tells you, as the manufacturer has likely tested those oils for your type of engine.
hmamontov, you probably hear of folks in your area using heavier weight oils because engines run hotter in the Florida climate, which thins out the oil more. In the NE where I live, some folks put a lighter weight oil in for the winter when the stuff gets thick in the cold. I used to have an old Pontiac V-8 which liked 5W-30 when the temperature dropped below 20, because it had a very worn and tired valvetrain. 10W-30 was the manufacturer recommended weight, but 5W-30 and 10W-40 were on the chart for lower and higher operating temperature ranges, respectively.
What brand of oil? That's tough to say. I think that decision should be based more on quality and availability of the product than what make of car you drive. I like Mobil1 because it's considered by most to be a high quality synthetic, and it's easy to get in my area (although more costly than most others). There's some discussion about various synthetic oils on the Probe/MX6/626 FAQ at:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/index.htm
Definitely check out the site even if you use a mechanic to maintain your 626. Whoever put it together really seems to be very knowledgeable about Mazdas. I've used the site a few times to perform maintenance on my 626 (not ready to fork over $100 for the factory shop manual yet), and I've found it to be very accurate and thorough.