Mazda 626

windowphobe6 · September 2002

The four-cylinder/automatic combination will not win many drag races, though it doesn't seem anywhere near as poky once up to speed. I don't recommend it for anyone who goes into conniptions whenever the tach needle pokes into the top half of its range. (I was once married to someone like that; no, this isn't why I am no longer so.)

mrdetailer · September 2002

Check wiith a Mazda Mechanic in your area. In the Intermountain Area they only recommend 5W-30. This is because of the hydraulic valve lifters. Thicker oil makes them click, and wears them out quicker. They don't even recommend 10W-30. So I blend 2 quarts of synthetic and the rest conventional.

windowphobe6 · September 2002

'98 and after don't have them. Really.

maltb · September 2002

Is strictly for fuel efficiency. Don't let anyone tell you it's for quicker, better lubrication.

slickdog · September 2002

That's complete BS, maltb. Oil viscosity absolutely does affect the lubrication of an engine. Heavy oil does not flow through oil passages as easily in cold weather. Thin oil breaks down more easily in hot weather. Now, if you don't believe that those two situations adversely affect the ability of the oil to properly lubricate the engine, then perhaps you should go back and take your high school chemistry and physics classes over again.

maltb · September 2002

If you really think that they use thin oil for lubrication I suggest you start reading up. The viscosities used in IC engines really don't vary much (anywhere from 5w/20 to 20w/50). True, the heavier oils will flow slower and cause a higher oil pressure but they also "stick" around longer (basic chemistry , right?).

Like I said before, the only reason newer cars are using thin oil is to make the engine spin easier making them more efficient and using less fuel.

tomcat630 · September 2002

The last Mazda 626 was made Aug 30th. The new 6 starts to be built in October.

slickdog · September 2002

Ok, I was feeling a bit adversarial the other day maltb, sorry to flame you. If you're claiming that "they", meaning the auto manufacturers, use different oils to acheive better mileage well I can't disagree with that. I completely agree that oil viscosity affects mileage.

However, I have done my reading, and I don't think you can discount the effects temperature and viscosity have on the lubricating properties of an oil. This is very well documented and I think you'd be hard pressed to argue otherwise. The API classifications specifically factor in ease of cranking and ability of an oil to flow at low temperatures. You can argue that the difference between viscosity ratings are very small as much as you want, but that doesn't equate to insignificant differences in lubrication properties under different operating temperatures.

Lastly, did you ever put thinner oil in an old engine to quiet the noisy lifters in the winter? It works.

maltb · September 2002

I have yet to see a study that shows thinner oil linked to engine longevity. To reiterate, I'm speaking of commonly marketed weights. It really comes down to efficiency and less to do with lubrication.

Lastly, did you ever put thinner oil in an old engine to quiet the noisy lifters in the winter? It works.

It works because of the caking that has occured...it has nothing to do with lubrication but everything to do with cleaning. If you think thin oil works well, try Rislone. However, don't pick up 4 quarts of that for your next oil change.

slickdog · September 2002

I've not seen any research on viscosity's effects on engine longevity either, but I'd like to see it.

As for quieting lifters, sure there is a long term cleansing effect with the thinner oil. If you've run an engine with nasty valvetrain ticking in the cold you also know that it's much worse in the first few minutes. I'm still maintaining that a thinner oil is going to reach those parts more quickly and have a positive effect. Is it a significant advantage? I don't know for sure, and perhaps I never will. I'm buying new cars now and don't plan to see them through to 200,000 miles anymore!

I've actually used Rislone many, many times with oil changes in high mileage engines (and no, I never filled the crankcase with it). I was always quite happy with the results, although some say that solvents can strip too much caked oil away from the engine too quickly and leave large amounts of the stuff in bad places. Ever see a problem with that?

Well, at any rate the recommended 10W-30 is working quite well in my 2.5L, and perhaps this spirited discussion will inspire me to experiment with the 5W-30, and see what it does to my mileage. You drive a 626 maltb? What oil are you using?

maltb · September 2002

You drive a 626 maltb?

At the moment no. I had a 98 2.0 and a 99 2.5, both manual trans. The 2.5 was a hoot to drive. I'm looking forward to getting into a Mazda6 sometime next year depending on my transportation needs.

slickdog · September 2002

My '00 626 is the best car I've owned so far (of course it's longevity is yet to be proven). I'm also not one of the "more HP is better" proponents, and I really think the Mazda 2.5L is a very well designed engine. The 5-spd isn't the best I've driven, but it's not terrible. Love the suspension as well, it handles better than any 4 dr. I've had.

Financial situation permitting, I'd like to replace my wife's Taurus (the worst car either of us have ever owned) with a new 6 wagon when they come out. Hopefully that Duratec will prove to be a valuable asset for the 6. Our Taurus has the old 3.8L (not very well designed), and I've not had personal experience with the Duratec although I'm hearing good things about it.

lngtonge18 · September 2002

Funny, I always heard the opposite from what you guys are saying. Thicker oil has always helped quiet noisy lifters in my high mileage engines. The thinner the oil, the noisier it got.
Example: my 92 Miata with 142k is known for noisy lifters. 10w-30 oil alone makes all sorts of racket. Adding a thick oil additive quiets them right up except for the first 10-20 seconds after starting it up. So, why is it you guys are saying thinner oil is better when I have always experienced the opposite?

maltb · September 2002

but typically, hydraulic lifters get stuck by caked oil on the inside. Sometimes, a thin oil or solvent can loosen a stuck lifter and allow it to do it's adjusting and close the gap that is causing the noise.

I don't know why you would experience the opposite. Maybe it has nothing to do with the lifter adjustment.

phroadrick · September 2002

Whoops! Lets try this again. Greetings all. I am the proud new (to me)owner of a 99 626 v6 at. LOVE THIS CAR. 43k miles and other than a few minor niggles, nothing to complain about. Had to replace a few bulbs in the instrument cluster and replace leaking coolant reservoir but other than that.... I've truly enjoyed reading the posts about this wonderful car and I must thank everyone who ever posted about the 4cyl AT. Almost bought one from a friend last year. Whew! Found this one on a used lot and practically stole it. Mechanic has been over it and can't find any problems. I'll go ahead and change the trans. fluid, flush the coolant and change the oil just to be sure. One question I had is anyone doing any performance mods to theirs? I have found the K&N drop in filter for it but that's been about it. I know this is a sedan and I'm not a boy racer but I do like to make a few changes now and then. Thanks to all.

slickdog · September 2002

The problem you've described is the opposite of what I was talking about, lngtonge18. I was referring to the situation where hydraulic lifters are quite noisy at startup in cold weather. Not sure why you would experience it the other way around, unless it wasn't the lifters at all. If you have solid lifters (which I believe some Miatas have in the past), I doubt that different oil would even make much difference.

maltb · September 2002

All Miatas have hydraulic lifters.

It's the 4cyl 626 that shed it's hydraulic lifters in '98 I believe.

lngtonge18 · September 2002

I'm also talking about hydraulic lifter noise when first starting the engine in the morning. Believe me, I know what lifter noise is. The thinner the oil, the greater the racket the lifters have made in every car where its been a problem. All Miatas have hydraulic lifters and most pre-99 models are kown for this problem, as are the 3.0 liter MPV and some older 626 models. The worst problem was with a 91 Stanza with a 2.4 liter. Those hydraulic lifters were terrible! One lifter in particular would get loose and lose oil pressure if the oil level dropped 1/4 of a quart or if thin oil was used. The only way to quiet the bad lifter was by using 20W-50 along with an oil additive. The thick oil increased the pressure enough to force the lifter to adjust right. The lifter design was so bad on these engines that it prompted Nissan to change to a solid lifter design on the 93 Altima. Granted, thick oil is not a good idea for those in cold climates as it will make the engine impossible to start. I live in Florida, where it doesn't get any colder than 18 degrees, so I can use thicker oil without much trouble. But I do know that if I had used 5W-20 on these problem cars, the lifters would have made noise constantly, not just on start-up.

qbrozen · September 2002

When I had my 626, I looked far and wide for mods to this car. Didn't have much luck at all. The only thing I ever ran across was lowering/stiffer springs and figured I would probably do that mod. But, the best enhancement for the car was something I didn't opt for when I bought it and that is the manual trans. Oh well.

slickdog · September 2002

So, maybe the thicker oil pumps up the lifters more and reduces clearances. I'm not saying I don't believe you, I've just never tried it. I've always had good luck with thinner oil quieting noisy valvetrains, over the long term and short term. Like I told maltb, I've used Rislone quite a lot with the thinner oil, so that probably makes a difference as well.

phroadrick · September 2002

Thanks qbrozen. I went ahead and put the K&N filter in and noticed a much better throttle response. I guess for now I'll just enjoy the car as is. But, I will keep looking. Someone HAS to be modifiying these things.

blacklabel · September 2002

Alright, a couple days ago, something dropped down in the car... like if you know the car, then its in the area where if you REMOVE the ashtray, there's a little room behind it... and something I had dropped down in a little hole that I didn't know was there. It's very small, and I can't even see down there with a flashlight.

Is there anyway to remove all that stuff (such as the cupholders, or any panels in that area) to get down inside the car? I don't want to start really pulling hard on stuff in case it breaks...

qbrozen · September 2002

I thought the same thing.

One suggestion I did get (but never had any luck with but I'll pass on to you anyway in case you can make use of it) was to look for Ford Probe GT mods. Used the same engine (so I'm told). I never found much for that car, either. And I was also afraid to spend the money on anything I did find without confirmation as to whether it would actually fit the Mazda.

Good luck.

damogyz · September 2002

I want to buy a 1997 mazda 626 LX, when I check the car, i found it has a lot of tappet noise on start up , after run 5--10 minutes,
then no noise.
What is the problem? is it hurt engine? if it is fixed,
should this problem repeat often?
can I buy the used car?
please reply to my emailbox. capital@sina.com
Thanks

qbrozen · October 2002

I also wrote to your email address, but I'll post here, too:

Might be a little low on oil or the oil is a bit old and thick. either way, an oil change could very well solve the noise.

My '99 always had a bit of valve noise on startup, but it would never last 5-10 mins. Maybe 15 seconds at best. But I find that in many cars and is perfectly fine.

good luck.

mrdetailer · October 2002

If it is only while the engine is cold, not a problem. Considered normal.

My Mazda specialist mechanic doesn't run any higher weight than 5W-30. Even a 10W-30 is a lot noisier. Personally, I also installed a block heater for use in below freezing weather. This costs very little and the engine starts in all but sub zero weather as smooth as butter.

I also change the oil every 4,000 miles to ensure that the inside of the engine stays clean.

Most drivers neglect transmissions. Check the fluid and if it has a strong burnt smell walk away. If it doesn't drain and refill with fresh every 15K and you shouldn't have problems. True of most vehicles. Transmissions are severely neglected.

Mazdas are fun to drive.

hebenstr · October 2002

I've got a '94 626 that I have to keep outdoors. Other than replacing the infamous transaxel at about 77k, car runs fine. I have noticed recently that the headlamp covers seem to be "yellowing". Anyone else have that problem? Can anything be done (short of replacing them with Mazda original parts)? Also, I have the silver paint job - which is significantly fading. Anyone been successful restoring it with rubbing compound? Thanks!

heathcat · October 2002

I am shopping for a used car right now, and I'm very nervous about it as I have never owned a newer car and never taken on car payments. I want to buy a car that will last 150,000+ miles. I am looking seriously at a 2002 Mitsubishi Galant ES and a 1999 Mazda 626 LX 5-spd manual trans. (I prefer manual for handling in the snow and it's usual lack of tranny problems) The asking price on the 626 is $9995, and it has 34K miles on it. the Galant is $10995 with 20K miles on it. Either way, the price/milage seems good- is this a great deal or just average?? Also, what are your thoughts on the longevity of either car?

windowphobe6 · October 2002

Which, coincidentally, is right here at edmunds.com; click on "Used" and follow links as needed.

Ten grand strikes me as just a tad high for an LX, even with the lux package, though 34k is way low mileage on a car this old. This little four-banger is sturdy; minor ailments tend to creep in between 60k and 100k, but 150k isn't at all out of reach. I have no experience with the Mitsu, though a friend of mine who has owned two Galants swears that they're the second-greatest thing since chopped liver.

lngtonge18 · October 2002

I have heard that you can use turtle wax rubbing compound on headlamp covers to remove most of the yellow. They won't look new, but they will look substantially better and you will be amazed at how much brighter your lights are.

phroadrick · October 2002

Hello all. I had a strange experience the other day. I went to get my transmission flushed (as opposed to dropping the pan and only changing 3 qts.) and the shop (Precision Tune) said they couldn't do it because they didn't have the proper fittings for that transmission. (99 ES V6 AT)Has anyone had this happen? Have any of you flushed your transmission and if so with what company? Thanks for all your help.

rubberman · October 2002

I have an intermittent stalling problem that has occurred several times over the last few months. It may last for one or several days. The car will stall at idle. Keeping the rpm's up using the accelerator will prevent it but it stalls so abruptly that it is usually impossible to avoid it at intersections. One of my thoughts is the fuel filter which hasn't been changed in a while. I don't know the difficulty of this. It doesn't seem to correlate with gasoline fill ups. Any other thoughts?

Thanks,
Dan

rubberman · October 2002

I bought a used '95 4 cyl 626 in '97 with about 30K miles on it at that time. I'm now driving 200+ miles/day and have over 160K miles on the car. The only maintenance has been normal wear for a vehicle with this many miles. The car has been very dependable for me.

qbrozen · October 2002

Just my personal experience, but I absolutely hated the Galant ('98) my wife had for 4 years. A real POS. Not really any specific major problems, but a lot of rattling, rough running, false warning lights, parts wearing out, etc. Had my 626 ('99) right around the same time and it was just a world of difference. The 626 felt much more solid and never gave a moments doubt as to its construction. We also both felt (and anyone else who took a ride in each car) that the Mazda was roomier on the inside.

qbrozen · October 2002

My exact thought when reading your problem before getting to your suggestion was the fuel filter. So that makes 2 of us.

Real easy to find out. You can remove it and then blow into the receiving side. If there is no resistance, than that's not your problem.

lngtonge18 · October 2002

The most likely culprit is the EGR valve. When they fail, they cause an abrupt intermittent stall whenever the engine gets close to idle speed. My friend is having this exact same problem on his 93 MX3. His stalling only occurs when the engine has been run a little while and is at normal operating temperature. It's not a cheap fix. If it's bad, expect to pay around $200-400.

windowphobe6 · October 2002

The idle air control valve, if really dirty or actually damaged, can cause symptoms like this. Unfortunately, it costs even more than the EGR valve. (I had to buy one for a '93; the part alone was perilously close to $600.)

Let's hope for the fuel filter. They're relatively cheap, if not as accessible as I'd like.

windowphobe6 · October 2002

The last time I had this done to a GF4A-EL transmission (the '93 was the only four-cylinder 626 ever to have it), I was at a Mazda store; they charged me, I seem to recall, about $115.

tomcat630 · October 2002

"I want to buy a car that will last 150,000+ miles."

You must maintain the car to get it to last that long, not just drive it. Most of today's cars can go long if maintained properly.

tdreo · October 2002

I just bought a new 2002 626 4 cylinder automatic.
I had a 2001 626 4 cylinder automatic that was about 1.5 years old that went to my son who just got his license. The 2001 had the transmission replaced at 21,000 miles. From day one I had noticed an "oil" smell while driving. I was told that "there is no oil smell" so I changed dealers with my complaint. The new dealer re-routed the tranny vent line and most of the smell went away. I guess the real problem was the tranny was getting too hot and that was causing the smell, although the fluid level was always fine. To get to the point, my 2002 now has an extra cooler for the transmission (mounted in front of the radiator. I guess better late than never, thanks Mazda! I have put 200 miles on it with no "smell". I feel confident there should be no tranny problems in this 626. I guess I should add the cooler to my sons car now so he won't have any problems.

Tony

wongster · November 2002

Love the car - ride, fit/finish and options. Picked it up this weekend for $9900 with 41k. Without reading all 1100+ previous posts, can anyone give me a quick lowdown on any special care or what I should be watching for in terms of problems/idiosyncracies?? TIA

Tom

windowphobe6 · November 2002

(A four-cylinder ES? Very few of those - I think I've seen two total - sneaked off dealer lots.)

The weakest link, by general agreement, is the automatic. By '99, some, though not all, of the upgrades were in place. It is, I think, a Good Thing to baby this trans - flush it once a year or 15k miles. If it's out of warranty already, consider adding an auxiliary cooler, which is relatively cheap.

The engine is sturdy. The valve-cover gasket tends to leak at high miles: easy fix on the four. The hydraulic valve-lash adjusters found on earlier models have been banished, as has the distributor, which cuts out two potential problems but adds the necessity of having valve lash checked occasionally; I'd do it at 60k with the timing belt.

Suspension parts are generally on the robust side, with the notable exception of the CV boots, which have a tendency to become cracked and split (65-85k), which is bad for the drive axle. Rebuilt axles, however, are cheap.

Weatherstripping around the doors is less sturdy than I think it ought to be.

And plunk down the $27 or so at the dealership for a copy of the owner's manual (or look for one on eBay), if you didn't get one. Not everything in this car is perfectly intuitive.

eyeguy590 · November 2002

I just purchased a 2002 626 lx 4 cyl. I see alot of unhappy people. Will I have mucho problems with this car. I did get a good deal. If it is not a good car I guess it wasn't a good deal.

wongster · November 2002

Yes, an automatic ES four-banger!

I drive 70 miles to and from work everyday, and add on another 15 miles or so for errands, and you'll see that fuel economy is a factor for me. The ES's creature comforts were the biggest seller next to the fuel economy. DId come with a manual, and I will look into the tranny flush and belt change/valve lash check within the year.

Thanx for the tips.....

windowphobe6 · November 2002

I assume if someone is unhappy, there's a reason for it. The fourth-generation 626 ('93-'97) lacked the reliability of the previous versions, one reason Mazda has had to buckle down to improve the latter-day models.

I'm a month into Year Three with a 2000 LX, and so far it has given me an absolute minimum of grief while returning gas mileage slightly above the EPA sticker - call it 23 city, 29 highway, and most of those highway miles were accumulated in the month of July, so the A/C was on more often than not.

Some minor things bug me - it would be nice if the door had been cut about an inch higher into the roof so I wouldn't have to duck quite so much, and the low-fuel light comes on too soon to suit me - but otherwise, this was the right car at the right time.

qbrozen · November 2002

Was there really that few of these? If so, the dealer I bought my 626 from must have had most of them. I wanted an ES, but all of those on his lot were 4-cyl. I decided the V6 was more important to me than the power seats and ended up with an LX.

2planka · November 2002

At different times I've encountered these problems with my 98 5 sp 4 cyl.

I had a case of the stalls shortly after my wife learned to drive the car (never drove a 5-sp before). Turns out she cooked the oxygen sensor, which led to air/fuel problems, stall outs, etc.

The hesitation problem (at acceleration) was a tougher one to figure out. I took it to the dealer and they "couldn't replicate" the problem. I initially thought it was a computer problem but that didn't pan out. After several weeks I took it to a friend's shop. He replaced the plug wires and the problem went away. Total cost was about $50.

So if yer stallin' or hesitatin' don't overlook the simple things. It could save some green.

-2p

windowphobe6 · November 2002

Maybe all the other dealers unloaded them on this one. I don't have numbers in front of me, and I doubt MNAO is willing to hand them out anyway, but this particular combination was new for '99 and dropped after '01, so it was likely the lowest-selling of the four versions being offered during those years.

The local stores here on the Lone Prairie stocked up on LX and ES-V6 models; if you wanted anything other than stripped or stuffed, you waited.

wongster · November 2002

So far I really like the ES I4, but I do have a question regarding the keyless entry/immobilizer system. Found out that if you start the car and lock the doors (say, to warm it up on a cold morning), the keyless entry remote will NOT work. Had to use the spare to manually open the car. Need to give my wife the key, and don't wanna spend the ~$35 to cut and program another, but if I go to the hardware store, will they be able to cut a "valet" key? Or will I have to go to the Mazda dealer?

TIA

maltb · November 2002

You can get a key for the doors cut at the hardware store, but NEVER use it in the ignition. You could end up needing your vehicle towed to the dealer.

Mazda 626

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles