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Like I said before, the only reason newer cars are using thin oil is to make the engine spin easier making them more efficient and using less fuel.
However, I have done my reading, and I don't think you can discount the effects temperature and viscosity have on the lubricating properties of an oil. This is very well documented and I think you'd be hard pressed to argue otherwise. The API classifications specifically factor in ease of cranking and ability of an oil to flow at low temperatures. You can argue that the difference between viscosity ratings are very small as much as you want, but that doesn't equate to insignificant differences in lubrication properties under different operating temperatures.
Lastly, did you ever put thinner oil in an old engine to quiet the noisy lifters in the winter? It works.
Lastly, did you ever put thinner oil in an old engine to quiet the noisy lifters in the winter? It works.
It works because of the caking that has occured...it has nothing to do with lubrication but everything to do with cleaning. If you think thin oil works well, try Rislone. However, don't pick up 4 quarts of that for your next oil change.
As for quieting lifters, sure there is a long term cleansing effect with the thinner oil. If you've run an engine with nasty valvetrain ticking in the cold you also know that it's much worse in the first few minutes. I'm still maintaining that a thinner oil is going to reach those parts more quickly and have a positive effect. Is it a significant advantage? I don't know for sure, and perhaps I never will. I'm buying new cars now and don't plan to see them through to 200,000 miles anymore!
I've actually used Rislone many, many times with oil changes in high mileage engines (and no, I never filled the crankcase with it). I was always quite happy with the results, although some say that solvents can strip too much caked oil away from the engine too quickly and leave large amounts of the stuff in bad places. Ever see a problem with that?
Well, at any rate the recommended 10W-30 is working quite well in my 2.5L, and perhaps this spirited discussion will inspire me to experiment with the 5W-30, and see what it does to my mileage. You drive a 626 maltb? What oil are you using?
At the moment no. I had a 98 2.0 and a 99 2.5, both manual trans. The 2.5 was a hoot to drive. I'm looking forward to getting into a Mazda6 sometime next year depending on my transportation needs.
Financial situation permitting, I'd like to replace my wife's Taurus (the worst car either of us have ever owned) with a new 6 wagon when they come out. Hopefully that Duratec will prove to be a valuable asset for the 6. Our Taurus has the old 3.8L (not very well designed), and I've not had personal experience with the Duratec although I'm hearing good things about it.
Example: my 92 Miata with 142k is known for noisy lifters. 10w-30 oil alone makes all sorts of racket. Adding a thick oil additive quiets them right up except for the first 10-20 seconds after starting it up. So, why is it you guys are saying thinner oil is better when I have always experienced the opposite?
I don't know why you would experience the opposite. Maybe it has nothing to do with the lifter adjustment.
It's the 4cyl 626 that shed it's hydraulic lifters in '98 I believe.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Is there anyway to remove all that stuff (such as the cupholders, or any panels in that area) to get down inside the car? I don't want to start really pulling hard on stuff in case it breaks...
One suggestion I did get (but never had any luck with but I'll pass on to you anyway in case you can make use of it) was to look for Ford Probe GT mods. Used the same engine (so I'm told). I never found much for that car, either. And I was also afraid to spend the money on anything I did find without confirmation as to whether it would actually fit the Mazda.
Good luck.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
then no noise.
What is the problem? is it hurt engine? if it is fixed,
should this problem repeat often?
can I buy the used car?
please reply to my emailbox. capital@sina.com
Thanks
Might be a little low on oil or the oil is a bit old and thick. either way, an oil change could very well solve the noise.
My '99 always had a bit of valve noise on startup, but it would never last 5-10 mins. Maybe 15 seconds at best. But I find that in many cars and is perfectly fine.
good luck.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
My Mazda specialist mechanic doesn't run any higher weight than 5W-30. Even a 10W-30 is a lot noisier. Personally, I also installed a block heater for use in below freezing weather. This costs very little and the engine starts in all but sub zero weather as smooth as butter.
I also change the oil every 4,000 miles to ensure that the inside of the engine stays clean.
Most drivers neglect transmissions. Check the fluid and if it has a strong burnt smell walk away. If it doesn't drain and refill with fresh every 15K and you shouldn't have problems. True of most vehicles. Transmissions are severely neglected.
Mazdas are fun to drive.
Ten grand strikes me as just a tad high for an LX, even with the lux package, though 34k is way low mileage on a car this old. This little four-banger is sturdy; minor ailments tend to creep in between 60k and 100k, but 150k isn't at all out of reach. I have no experience with the Mitsu, though a friend of mine who has owned two Galants swears that they're the second-greatest thing since chopped liver.
Thanks,
Dan
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Real easy to find out. You can remove it and then blow into the receiving side. If there is no resistance, than that's not your problem.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Let's hope for the fuel filter. They're relatively cheap, if not as accessible as I'd like.
You must maintain the car to get it to last that long, not just drive it. Most of today's cars can go long if maintained properly.
I had a 2001 626 4 cylinder automatic that was about 1.5 years old that went to my son who just got his license. The 2001 had the transmission replaced at 21,000 miles. From day one I had noticed an "oil" smell while driving. I was told that "there is no oil smell" so I changed dealers with my complaint. The new dealer re-routed the tranny vent line and most of the smell went away. I guess the real problem was the tranny was getting too hot and that was causing the smell, although the fluid level was always fine. To get to the point, my 2002 now has an extra cooler for the transmission (mounted in front of the radiator. I guess better late than never, thanks Mazda! I have put 200 miles on it with no "smell". I feel confident there should be no tranny problems in this 626. I guess I should add the cooler to my sons car now so he won't have any problems.
Tony
Tom
The weakest link, by general agreement, is the automatic. By '99, some, though not all, of the upgrades were in place. It is, I think, a Good Thing to baby this trans - flush it once a year or 15k miles. If it's out of warranty already, consider adding an auxiliary cooler, which is relatively cheap.
The engine is sturdy. The valve-cover gasket tends to leak at high miles: easy fix on the four. The hydraulic valve-lash adjusters found on earlier models have been banished, as has the distributor, which cuts out two potential problems but adds the necessity of having valve lash checked occasionally; I'd do it at 60k with the timing belt.
Suspension parts are generally on the robust side, with the notable exception of the CV boots, which have a tendency to become cracked and split (65-85k), which is bad for the drive axle. Rebuilt axles, however, are cheap.
Weatherstripping around the doors is less sturdy than I think it ought to be.
And plunk down the $27 or so at the dealership for a copy of the owner's manual (or look for one on eBay), if you didn't get one. Not everything in this car is perfectly intuitive.
I drive 70 miles to and from work everyday, and add on another 15 miles or so for errands, and you'll see that fuel economy is a factor for me. The ES's creature comforts were the biggest seller next to the fuel economy. DId come with a manual, and I will look into the tranny flush and belt change/valve lash check within the year.
Thanx for the tips.....
I'm a month into Year Three with a 2000 LX, and so far it has given me an absolute minimum of grief while returning gas mileage slightly above the EPA sticker - call it 23 city, 29 highway, and most of those highway miles were accumulated in the month of July, so the A/C was on more often than not.
Some minor things bug me - it would be nice if the door had been cut about an inch higher into the roof so I wouldn't have to duck quite so much, and the low-fuel light comes on too soon to suit me - but otherwise, this was the right car at the right time.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I had a case of the stalls shortly after my wife learned to drive the car (never drove a 5-sp before). Turns out she cooked the oxygen sensor, which led to air/fuel problems, stall outs, etc.
The hesitation problem (at acceleration) was a tougher one to figure out. I took it to the dealer and they "couldn't replicate" the problem. I initially thought it was a computer problem but that didn't pan out. After several weeks I took it to a friend's shop. He replaced the plug wires and the problem went away. Total cost was about $50.
So if yer stallin' or hesitatin' don't overlook the simple things. It could save some green.
-2p
The local stores here on the Lone Prairie stocked up on LX and ES-V6 models; if you wanted anything other than stripped or stuffed, you waited.
TIA