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Comments
"Because you need a special tool to retighten the filter, an authorized Mazda Dealer should do the work."
This statement is incorrect for several reasons:
1. The "special tool" turns out to be a 5 dollar oil filter wrench which I bought from Discount Auto Parts. The brand name is "RiteFit", part # G A256. You need a long extension and a ratchet to use this wrench. It also fits a 91-93 Suzuki GSX 1100 G motorcycle oil filter.
2. You need an oil filter wrench to LOOSEN the filter, not to RETIGHTEN it. In fact, it is dangerous to use a wrench to install a new oil filter because you can compress the gasket to the point where filter metal touches the block and further tightening will distort body of the filter and possibly cause a leak.
Note: I have a V6 engine. Cannot state if the above filter will fit the 4 cylinder version, but these filter wrenches are available in many sizes. Just buy a new oil filter and take it with you to the parts store to find the right filter wrench. Also, location of the filter on the 4 cyl engine is different, so other filters may be useable on that engine. With the V6, there is no way to use anything but a cap type filter wrench.
My other options are 2002- 626/galant at 10K or 2002 -taurus/malibu at 10.5K.
While, I realize that these cars are not really comparable and that the maxima is a better car, which do you guys think is the better deal.
Price is quite important to me, but i can spend more if I know it will work out better in the long run.
thanks!
So only the maxima and malibu are left to decide between! I test drove both today and the malibu was better than I expected. With the price at 10K for a malibu 2002 used with 27K miles and 15.5K for maxSE 02, my mind says malibu cause its much cheaper. but my heart says maxima! Which puts me in a dilemma!
This is a message I just posted on the maxima discussion list:hi everyone,
I've been following your discussion forum for a while and wanted to ask you guys for some help.
I'm getting out of college this Spring and looking for a car. I have shortlisted my choices to 2 cars:
Chevy Malibu 2002 25K miles for 10K
Nissan Max SE 2002 25K miles for about 16K
While, price is certainly a big factor to me as I'm just getting out of college and also I don't really need a maxima type of car right now. But I can get the maxima through financing if the deal is good and if it'll be a better and more economical car in the long run. I wanted to know what you guys thought about it as most of you own maximas. Also, would you know anything about the difference in insurance rates for the 2 cars. I'm thinking that the maxima will have a much higher premium.
Please let me know what you guys think being firsthand owners. I have shortlisted to these 2 cars using help from discussion forums, and i'd really appreciate information. Thanks!
As far as a Maxima being a 200K car or whatever... it all depends on the situation. I can find you people who claim the 626 is incredibly reliable and has great longevity, AND I can find you ex-Maxima owners who will tell you the car sucks and spent too much time in the shop. For me, it would be between these 2 cars (but ONLY the V6 mazda) and probably come down whatever the best deal I found is.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I am sure there are some Maxima owners who are not happy with their cars and those Mazda owners who love their cars. In my case, the Maxima is by far the better car. My advice would be: look for a one owner 97-99 Maxima with low mileage in very good condition.
Fuel economy is a dead heat (comparing '01s, the maxima claims 22/27 with the stick and 19/26 auto. while 626 claims 21/27 and 20/26).
I (along with just about every magazine editors I ever read) found the 626 to handle much better, however. Yes, you can say the Maxima rides better... if you like a soft quiet ride. Matter of preference there. I, personally, prefer better handling.
Not sure where you are shopping for parts, but you can get Bosch platinum plugs and a premium Belden wire set from Napa for a total of $118 for the Mazda. I tried to look up Maxima parts for comparison, but they only listed the plugs. Does it have wires? I'm not even sure.
The timing chain is definitely a great advantage.
You can look at resale in 2 ways. I look at the Mazda as a great bargain when buying used. And it doesn't have as far to fall as the Maxima. When you have 150K plus miles on either car they won't be worth much to anyone anyway.
I'm still not saying I'd definitely pick one over the other. You can spend less to acquire the Mazda, but it does require that expensive timing belt change. You can get more straight-line power with the Maxima, but better handling with the Mazda.
Still a toss-up for me.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
UNIT 2000 MAZDA 626 LX-V6
MI/HR ON OIL 10,000
MI/HR ON UNIT 60,000
SAMPLE DATE 4/6/2003
FIRST NUMBER IS MY OIL AND SECOND NUMBER IS UNIVERSAL AVERAGE
ALUMINUM 7 4
CHROMIUM 2 1
IRON 33 12
COPPER 7 6
LEAD 23 5
TIN 0 13
MOLYBDENUM 75 0
NICKEL 1 0
MANGANESE 1 1
SILVER 0 0
TITANIUM 0 0
POTASSIUM 2 0
BORON 108 38
SILICON 11 9
SODIUM 9 6
CALCIUM 2951 1304
MAGNESIUM 73 481
PHOSPHORUS 801 747
ZINC 963 880
BARIUM 0 1
SUS VISCOSITY @ 210 ºF 64 55-62
FLASHPOINT IN ºF 415 >365
FUEL % <0.5 <2.0
WATER % 0 <0.05
ANTIFREEZE % 0 0
INSOLUBLES % 0.04 <0.6
LAB COMMENT:Nothing too unusual showed up here. This oil was run quite a bit longer that what we
normally see and this is the reason for most of the high wear. The universal averages column shows typical wear from this type of engine after 4,000-5,000 miles on the oil. Lead at 23 ppm shows mildly high bearing wear, though everything else looks okay. The TBN was 3.5 which is low, but not a problem. 2.0 or less is considered a problem. The oil started at 10-11. No fuel or anti-freeze was present. Suggest going 11,000 next oil and resample at that point to monitor.
1. Fuel economy:
Forget the EPA estimates.
My Maxima gets 27 MPG combined. My Mazda gets 23 MPG combined, period. Both are 5 speeds, same driver and fuel, so I am comparing apples to apples. At 80 MPH Mazda engine is doing almost 4000 rpm in top gear vs. 3200 rpm for Maxima. Mazda engine lacks bottom end torque so you have to rev it up considerably to develop power - all this at substantial fuel economy penalty. In fact, Mazda engine loves to rev and shifting gears at 5K rpm is necessary to get good performance from this engine.
2. Cost of spark plug wires and spark plugs. The quoted prices are for the OEM replacement parts from Mazda. I found that the cost of plug wires will be around $ 100 no matter where you buy them. Original equipment replacement ones are made by NGK and I got mine for about $ 100 from a Mazda dealer (with some discount). The Bosch platinum spark plugs do not perform well in Mazda engines and dealers do not recommend them. The original plugs are DENSO platinum plugs and they are about $ 18 a piece from the Mazda dealer (I could not find them anywhere else).
3. Better handling from Mazda? You have got to be kidding. The suspension and CV joints/axles on this car are so unrefined and crude that one cannot enjoy this car at all. I already had my axles/CV joints replaced under warranty for annoying vibration. The new ones have alleviated the problem, but not totally eliminated it. I had a defective front wheel hub/knuckle assembly replaced under warranty. I had a defective front tire. I know at least two other people who had axle/CV joints problems on this car, but Mazda never bothered to recall these vehicles. Instead they train their service reps to send you away with a smile that your car is performing as it should. In fact I was told that the reason for vibration is that the parts are turning really fast. I got my axles replaced only because a local Mazda mechanic owned a similar car, had the same vibration problem and replaced half of his car before they found that the axles were defective. And I would like to know how many other people who had this problem were turned away under warranty and nothing was done for them.
4. Resale value: It is beyond an insult for this vehicle. I was quoted as low as $ 4500 for a 99 ES V6 with 64 K miles in showroom condition.(original MSRP $ 23,000). I regret ever buying this car.
No. I'm really not kidding about the handling. I found the Maxima/I30 to be way too soft and leaned way too much in the turns for my taste. And I never had any suspension problems in the Mazda. Again, this goes to personal experiences. You've had good luck with your Nissan and bad with your Mazda. My experiences have been exactly opposite. That's why I steer away from issues like mechanical breakdowns.
Yes. I agree. The resale is bad. But look at that from a buyer's perspective. They could pick up a "showroom condition 64K mile ESV6" for about $6K. And, as long as the 60K service was done, they have a new timing belt to boot.
I'm not surprised at your mileage figures since you stated that you keep the RPMs up. Personally, I drive all my cars pretty hard and would definitely get way worse mileage in the Maxima as well.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
we were talking about the V6, remember? i know all about the 4-cyl (not a "v4" by the way) tranny problems.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I was told not to use the Bosch spark plugs in my Mazda not only by several Mazda dealers, but also several auto parts stores. Everybody recommended NGK plugs for this car.
Here are some other Mazda "innovations" that make it a more attractive car: 1. No fog lights (deleted after 98 as stadard equipment on the ES V6)
2. No ABS or traction control (deleted after 98 as standard equipment on the ES V6)
3. Outside mirrors do not fold
4. There is no remote release for the fuel door
5. Frame drain holes are covered with a piece of duct tape from the factory which fell off shortly after driving in a rain. Mazda must be saving a fortune in the plastic plugs. Also, some drain holes in the engine compartment are covered with pieces of cheap tape that fell of after several car washes.
6. Factory aluminum alloy wheels are so stupidly designed that if you mount them on a wheel balancer and tighten the centering cone, you will scratch off the clear coat and veins of aluminum oxide will form under the clearcoat very shortly. Using wheel weights nicks the clearcoat as well and causes corrosion under the clearcoat. I already had my wheels replaced under warranty because of this.
7. The dash mounted clock used for years in Mazda vehicles has been deleted in this model
There is one thing I like about my Mazda more than the Maxima, and it is the sound of its starter when cranking the engine. That's about it.
I have 2000 626 LX - V6 5 speed and I'm quite happy with it. 60 K and no mechanical problems, low maintenance cost(I don't buy parts from dealer), drives great, handles even better.
I'm not sure that maxima and 626 are in the same category anyway...I think it would be fair to compare maxima to millenia.
It serves its purpose as a work car and as far as reliability goes it is reliable.
Maybe you do not have the same problems with the car that I have. Maybe Mazda did not install defective reject CV joints in your new car as they did in mine (and probably replaced them with another questionable set under warranty, much like they replace defective transmissions with crummy rebuilt units). Also, different people have different expectations from their cars. What is unacceptable to one person may be perfectly acceptable to somebody else.
seen a lift bay for preventive stuff only. We are
thoughly pleased with our first NEW car purchase.
Thanx edmunds for the research data. 130 ponies
bridled to a left-leg-flexor is plenty of Zoom/Zoom
for us. Luv that Tach Straight-Up
Its funny, I always seem to pick a vehicle that so many people claim is crap and would never buy again and hate the manufacturer for building such an atrocity. I loved my 626. I did wish for a little more power and I really regretted not getting an ES instead of the LX, but that was my fault. And, yes, I did find the depreciation to be unbelievable. But I at least face the fact that was my own fault for not researching it more and realizing I could have gotten a great deal on a used one.
My current car is the dreaded '98 Volvo S70. I bought it with 30K miles, its fast approaching 70K miles, and, guess what, not a single problem with it that I was so passionately warned about before buying it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
i was thing of installing a K&N AIR FILTER on this car to improve the mileage.
i've read all the negative stuff on the 626's and i have had some minor problems with mine but i just love the ride i get in that 626. i love it when i'm doing 70 mph and hit the pedal real hard , man she just jumps!!! i have 3 guys at work who drive newer maxima's and all 3 of them have spent more time in the shop than my 2000 626.
These should be better then OEM platinum that lasted 60K on my car. I'm sure they also stock ngk wires for the car.
As for oil filters I would use either PureOne, Mobil or Wix.
Mazda's MSRP on their NGK platinum plugs (part number 0000-18-KJ13) is $13.70. If your dealer is charging you more that that, try http://www.mazdastuff.com
again thanks
I'm on a 15k-mile flush cycle on mine, on the theory that it cuts down the amount of time the fluid has to deteriorate.
(And '98-'99 models don't have heater ducts under the front seats, either.)
By the way, I always use compressed air to blow out the plug wells before I take the old plugs out. Also, I always hand tighten the new plugs (by turning the extension by hand without a ratchet) until they seat to avoid cross threading and damaging the aluminum threads in the cylinder head. I got a set of OEM NGK plug wires for about $ 100 from the dealer (with about 20% discount). I saw $ 93 price on the mazdastuff site on the same wires (recommended in one of the posts above). I think that is about the best price out there for the OEM wires. I priced a set of Bosch wires at Auto Zone and they were about $ 100 so I decided to buy the OEM ones.
Some tips on how to replace the filter:
1. Always unscrew the fuel cap first to vent the fuel tank and to relieve the pressure
2. Unbolt the filter holder bracket from the engine before disconnecting the fuel lines
3. Disconnect the upper line first and have a small bowl and some paper towels ready to catch the spilled fuel
4. With the lower line still connected, tilt the filter and empty the filter into a bowl.
5. Remove the lower fuel line and remove the filter. Cap the fuel lines with small rubber plugs until you are ready to connect the new filter
6. Remove the old filter from the filter holder and install a new one. Make sure the orientation of the metal inlet and outlet pipes on the filter is the same in relation to the holder bracket mounting bolts.
7. Connect the bottom fuel line first and tighten the clamp, then the upper line
8. Bolt the filter holder mounting bracket to the engine block
9. Start the engine and check for any leaks.
Note: The filter is located on the driver's side of the engine close to the power brake booster, below a cruise control component which must be unbolted to reach the filter.
California, New York, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Vermont, New Jersey, Rhode Island, Delaware, Maryland, New Hamshire, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Maine, and Washington D.C.
The manual calls for an inspection of timing belt at 60K and 90K intervals and replacement at 105K miles.
A 1988 Yugo, and 1982 Renault Le Car. I bought both of them slightly used, spent $ 1700 on the Yugo in 1990 with 18K miles, and $ 1100 on the '82 Renault with 30 K miles in 1984. And I had far fewer problems with either car than with my new 99 ES V6! Sold the Yugo in 1991 for $ 1500 with 30K miles, and the Renault for $ 500 with 65K miles in 1987. And both cars had better CV joints that the Mazda (no vibration).
Hell, I've got an Alfa spider in my garage that I've put about 5,000 miles on in the 4 years I've owned it. It has not broken down once. I guess that means its the most reliable car I've every owned!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I know there is a risk of belt braking but this is non interference engine so only extra cost would be towing bill. I whish these V6 had timing chains instead!
This arrangement is unfortunately not possible on oeverhead cam engines and therefore some of the best diesel engines made, such as Mercedes Benz diesels, use timing chain to operate the cam. Still better than using a belt on a diesel, which VW still does on their Jettas.