Mazda 626

p100 · November 2003

Have you eliminated the obvious:

1. Does the noise start only when you reach certain speed, meaning that it is caused by air stream getting inside the vehicle

2. Does the noise disappear when you turn off the fan and A/C. Sometimes blower motor can cause annoying squealing or other noise.

I had a persistent buzzing noise in my 95 Nissan truck and it only started when I hit about 40 MPH. It got progressively worse and became unbearable. Turns out it was caused by peeling mylar film on the plastic upper winshield moulding. The film was peeling and fluttered in the wind. It sounded like the noise was coming in from under the dash though. Took me a while to find the source.

kaspar10 · November 2003

It doesn't seem related to speed or road conditions. Doesn't go away when the AC or fan are engaged. Sounds like pieces of plastic rubbing. I have taken off the black under piece from the dash, still there. All the stuff under the dash seem secure and tight. At a loss and going crazy.

slickdog · December 2003

This is an obvious one, but I've had more than a couple glove boxes with chirping doors. Taking everything out of the box and driving for a bit with it's door open would eliminate that possibility.

Other than that, there are of course many other things which could be making such a noise. You may want to try driving around with someone else in the car and have them hold onto, push, pull, or otherwise test things that could be loose and making noise (seats, door panels, dash compartments, etc.) while listening for the squeaking to stop. Good luck if it's under the dash, because it's no fun contorting yourself enough to get at anything under there easily.

Here are some things that have made noise on the inside of my 626 thus far:

- Driver's side seat was squeaking intermittently from underneath, moving the seat would silence it but only for a couple days. Lubricating the seat rails solved it permanently.

- Driver's side seat belt buckle squeaks intermittently in warm weather near where it's bolted on (only when the seat belt is in use). Haven't tried any solutions yet.

- Dash compartment below the stereo clicks persistently until I flip the door open and shut it again, after which it stays quiet for about 3 months or so (I don't really use it much). This one isn't annoying enough to bother fixing.

p100 · December 2003

I recall that I had intermittent squeaking and rattling noise inside my 99 626 for a while: it turned out to be the removable "ashtray" which fits into one of the drink holders. This ashtray has a rubber gasket around it but needs to be pushed firmly down - otherwise it can produce a very annoying rattle. It took me a while to trace the source of this noise as well. This ashtray only comes on vehicles with the smoker's package. I do not smoke, but the thing came with the car, so I use it sometimes for pocket change.

Car manufacturers frequently use pieces of felt between plastic panels to prevent squeaks. Sometimes these felt pieces slip out. This can cause very annoying squeaks and rattles. There are pieces of felt between the dash upper cover and winshield post covers, for example.

hookedoncars2 · December 2003

I purchased a 1998 626 4-cyl 5-spd last July and overall am satisfied with it (nice ride, great gas mileage). It has about 80,000 miles on it now. During the last couple of months, I've noticed that during hard acceleration, the car will hesitate (kinda like a bucking or chugging motion), then continue its forward motion more smoothly. Very annoying. My shift points are at roughly 2500-3000 rpms, so I don't believe that my shifting is causing the problem. If I accelerate more gradually (drive it like a grandpa), there is generally no hesitation and it accelerates smoothly.

Since I bought the car (73,000 miles), I have changed the plugs, air filter, and the oil a couple times. No "check engine" lights are displayed during the rough, chugging acceleration.

Does anyone know what might be contributing to this problem. Your suggestions are appreciated.

p100 · December 2003

There could be several problems here. These cars require new spark plug wires every 60K miles for proper performance. A bad plug wire will cause noticeable stumble or miss on acceleration. These cars do not like Bosch platinum spark plugs. Stay with Denso or NGK platinum plugs. Try cleaning the throttle body and run several cans of Techron through the system (one can per 8 gals of fuel) to clean the injectors.

Was the timing belt recently changed? If not installed properly, it could cause performance problems. There are also issues with distributors in some 626 models(I believe that 98 is the last model with a distributor.)

lngtonge18 · December 2003

I would agree with p100. It sounds to me like a problem with the spark plug wires. They are a well known weakness on Mazdas. When you changed the spark plugs, you may have weakened or cracked the insulation on the wires. I would change those and see if that fixes the problem.

rotarykid · December 2003

also inspect the plugs for carbon tracking. a dark streak down the length of the porcelain causes the arcing and both plug and wire will need to be replaced if that is the problem. some people have attempted to replace just the plug and the carbon buildup on the old wire just transfers to the new plug causing the same problem. in this case they both require replacement.

slickdog · December 2003

I've got one of those pieces of felt between the top of my dash and the A pillar moulding which is now starting to work it's way up out of position and into view. Not sure if it's going to be easy to get back in there or not. So far it hasn't resulted in any noise, it just looks bad.

p100 · December 2003

One possibility I forgot to mention is a leaky valve cover. This causes hot oil to fill up the plug wells, which results in damage to the plug wire boots and results in performance problems. If this is the case, you must replace the valve cover gasket and the plug wires.

hookedoncars2 · December 2003

Thanks for the advise on my 626 hesitation problem.

I talked with a rep from a parts supplier and he suggested I try spraying some water on the plug wires while the car is running to see if it causes any engine hiccups. He said that doing so was an "old test" on wires that sometimes works to identify wire leakage. I tried that [on both the wires and coil pack (no distributor on the 98)] and nothing happened. Engine kept firing smooth.

Today, I'm going to try new wires and I'll let you know the outcome. I'll also check the Denso plugs that I installed a couple months ago for carbon tracking.

hookedoncars2 · December 2003

Thanks for the help. The plug wires were the fix.

I checked the plugs for carbon and noticed some buildup around the first couple of threads on each plug, but the electrodes looked clean. Kept the plugs and, a few miles later, dumped a bottle of Valvoline SynPower Complete Fuel System Treatment. Maybe a little overkill on the cleaner, but I guess it won't hurt. Now, lets see how she runs for awhile.

esfahani2 · December 2003

Can someone help me out? i'm a recent college grad looking for a reliable (inexpensive) car & i happened to stumble across a '98 626 ES V6, fully loaded, leather,sunroof,68K, being sold at a dealership. they are asking $8300, which according to edmunds, is around $1000 too high. the car is a beauty--looks perfect & drives great. anything i should know about these models? advice?

fowler3 · December 2003

tonight, bring your questions and your comments and join in. Doors open 15-minutes early to make the week's fastest and most enjoyable hour longer.

Time: 6:00PM to 7:00PM PST -- 9:00PM to 10:00PM EST

We need your support to build it.

fowler3

hookedoncars2 · December 2003

Guess I must be in the Xmas spirit, cause I plan to give my 626 (four-banger, 5-spd, LX version) a gift of new tires. Just started the shopping experience today. Lots of choices/prices etc.

My current tires are Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus tires (205/60/15). In addition to considering Michelin as a replacement, I am considering lower priced alternatives such as the Yokohama Avid H4 and the Kumho HP4 716 (roughly $65/tire cheaper than Michelins). The Michelin and Kumho models are considered in the same tire class - Grand Touring All-Season, while the Yoko is in the High Performance All-Season class. My thinking initially is biased toward the Yoko due to its likely handling advantages.

If anyone has a strong opinion or experience (good or bad) for tires on their 626, please share that opinion. Might help clutter my choices some more.

p100 · December 2003

First, prepare to spend $ 1000 on the 60K service as soon as you buy the car. I bet that the former owner sold the car becuase he did not want to spend the money ($ 500 for the timing belt change and valve clearance adjustment, $ 180 for spark plug and plug wires, the rest for fuel system service etc.) If you buy the car, prepare to keep it for a long time because it has practically no resale value. I have a 99 ES V6 5 speed and I have to keep the car because I cannot get more than $ 4500 on trade for it. And it iwll be worth even less after 1 January 04. So the asking price for the 98 model is way too high.

p100 · December 2003

I just bought a set of P205-60 HR 15 Michelin MXVs for my 99 ES V6. How many miles did you get out of your set? I had Michelin Pilots before and they did not last very long - about 30k miles. I like MXVs so far. I would stay away from cheaper tires, such as Kumho or Yokohama. They are inferior to Michelins in just about every respect. You get what you pay for. Your safety depends on the tires. I got a serious wake-up call several years ago when a cheap General tire blew right through the sidewall at 70 MPH on my 83 Pontiac and I almost lost control of the car. The tire was almost new when this happened and I never exceeded 70 MPH. I never buy cheap tires for any of my vehicles since that day. Michelin MXV for my Mazda, Michelin LTX M/S for my 95 Nissan truck and Metzelers for my motorcycle.

esfahani2 · December 2003

Thanks p100. I negotiated the price down to $7150 (so red-tag prices are negotiable after all!). After test driving the car again, I noticed that around 1300 RPM the car rattles. I informed the sales manager I would need to show it to my mechanic the following day. He called me a few hours later and told me the car was sold. Some poor sucker probably paid sticker price for a faulty car. I'm glad I didn't purchase (I went to the dealer check-in-hand) b/c I don't have extra money & time to spend on this model year's notorious transmission and other problems which I've been reading about on this forum. No more Mazda for me! This forum is GREAT! Keep it up!

lngtonge18 · December 2003

I respectfully disagree about your opinion on tires. Michelin's are outrageously expensive and in many respects no better or worse then competing cheaper tires. You are paying for the name, not much else. Michelin's greatest claim to fame is low rolling resistance and reasonably long life. As far as hydroplaning resistance and handling grip is concerned, they suck. My 03 Tiburon has MXV4 Energy tires and they started hydroplaning at city speeds after only 5k!! These tires don't instill confidence in me at all. My mom's Accord MXV4 tires and my brother's Integra XGT V4 tires had the same problem with terrible hydroplaning resistance and they got extremely noisy way before they wore out. In fact, we thought the Accord's wheel bearings were going bad the noise was so loud. Kumho tires have gained a lot of respect in the racing crowd for their excellent performance and good wear. General tires have always been cheap crap tires, but they are way below Yokohama and Kumho. IMO, Michelin is a joke and a complete waste of money. They aren't worth double the price of competing tires, especially when you only get mediocre performance.

Yokohama, Dunlop, and Bridgestone are the best names for quality good performing tires. Kumho is an excellent value and should prove to be just as good as the others at an even cheaper price.

zoomzoom626 · December 2003

There you can get real reviews most tires available for your car. I recently replaced stock bridgestones that came on mine after 70K and they still had 10K left on them. I replaced them with Sumitomo HTR+ 225/50/16 based on what I read at Tirerack and so far I'm happy with them.
I bought these at Sears since they matched the Tirerack's price :-)...

windowphobe6 · December 2003

When I wear out these OEM Bridgestone Turanzas (shouldn't take too much longer), I'm going with X-Ones, and hang the price; they were wonderful on my previous 626, and I expect them to do likewise on my current ride.

p100 · December 2003

I have had very good luck with Michelin LTX M/S tires on my Nissan pickup. Got over 75K miles out of one set. Other Michelin tires which I bought, such as Pilots or MXVs, appear to be very well made as they take rather small weights to balance as compared to other tires I had. I bought a set of Continental tires from Tirerack three years ago. On one of them the steel belt broke after several thousand miles and caused all kinds of problems. I bought two new ones and both were so badly out of round that they were practically unuseable. I returned them as defective but Tirerack never refunded postage back and forth which was about $ 40. I also bought a set of Bridgestone Potenzas from Tirerack and one of them blew right through the side wall after several thousand miles. So I do not buy any more tires from Tirerack. Tirerack sells Kumho tires that fit Mazda 626 for something like $ 46 a piece. This does not appear to me as a quality, confidence inspiring, tire deal.

I have never had any blowouts, out of round problems, or broken belts with any of the Michelin tires. Maybe they are not the best, but my experience with them has been positive compared to some other brands. You may want to read some Nissan Maxima posts about terrible quality Bridgestone Potenza tires installed as original equipment on 02 and 03 Maximas. Nissan switched to other brands for 04 Maxima models because they had to replace many OEM Bridgstone tires due to numerous defects, especially vibration problems. And these were V rated 17 inch tires in many cases.

And I had to have one OEM Bridgestone Potenza tires replaced on my Mazda 626 under warranty because it caused persistent pull to the right (alignment being set to correct spec). the problem disappeared when the tire was replaced. So much for Bridgestone tire quality.

lngtonge18 · December 2003

Conversely, my Tiburon is pulling to the right due to one or two Michelin tires having an internal belt problem. Cross rotating them helped for a short time (which told me the problem is the tires), but now the pull is back. The alignment is apparently fine. For tires that cost $116 a piece from Tirerack (even more from a tire dealer) I'm not impressed. I also had issues with them being out of round from sitting, which caused a vibration felt through the steering for about 2k. The Goodyear Eagle GA tires on my just bought 03 Diamante also encountered this but it seems to have lasted only for the first 100 miles. I have also seen another phenomenon that seems quite common on Michelin tires: indentations in the sidewall which is normally caused by displaced or broken belts. These broken belts can be caused by hitting a nasty pothole or curb, but these indentations were showing up with just normal road conditions. Since the only other tires I have seen this on is General and Uniroyal (which is made my Michelin), this leads me to believe Michelin quality is not the best. Like I said, they last a long time. For most folks, that automatically makes them think they are better tires. When grip and traction is taken into account though, they are merely average. Interesting about your problems with tires bought at tirerack. I've never had a problem with them and only buy my tires there.

As far as Bridgestone is concerned, I have heard of some problems with certain Potenza models (usually the OEM versions; RE 92 to be specific). But the higher line versions are much better and highly rated by both owners and magazines. I personally have had excellent luck with Yokohama and Dunlop and other family members have liked Bridgestones way more then Michelin.

jhouse · January 2004

...on my 97 626 which would not pass the new CT emissions testing requirements. I was told that both the front and rear O2 sensors needed to be replaced and that these sensorsd were the cause of my "check engine" light being on. This light has been on for a couple of years, but since the car always ran fine, I assummed it was a faulty sensor and didn't do anything about it. Now that I had to bring my car in for the emmissions test, the mechanic told me that the check engine light was causd by 2 bad O2 sensors. Did I get taken? The car did pass the emmissins test with the O2 sensors replaced, and the check engine light is now off, but the mechanic could have told me anything and i would not have known better. Just looking for some reassurance that I did the right thing. Looking for feedback in CT.

rotarykid · January 2004

Which engine do you have? Knowing the code #'s that were set (which caused the check engine light to come on) would be a help to let you know if you were taken or not. It is possible that the o2's were bad and needed replacement, but not very common on 97 model 626.Was this a dealer and if so, where in CT?

learnw · January 2004

I've test driven a 2000 626 with 68Km over the past few days There is a high pitch whine that increases as I accelerate. I'm told this is normal for the 4 cyl. Is this the case?
Thanks
Walter

skibry1 · January 2004

47K on our Freeport and still no issues to fret
about.Luv the left-leg flexor. $16k 4 years ago
was/still the best deal for our first NEW car.

windowphobe6 · January 2004

Is this the automatic?

The four-banger makes all sorts of noises, but none of which I'd characterize as a speed-sensitive whine.

jhouse · January 2004

OK....and now...2 days later my check engine light comes back on so again I'm wondering about whether these 2 $233 plus labor O2 sensors were the actual problem or not. I think I got taken. It was not a dealer in CT. It was Ex Per Tech in Manchester. I'm trying to reach the owner to see what he "suggests", but at this point, I'm thinking about disputing the charge on my credit card. Also, he said my final emmissions test "passed with flying colors", but as I read the fine print, it says that "This vehicle is not ready to determine the status of the pollution control system and the vehicle received an alternate emissions test. On the next inspection cycle, this readiness failure may result in a reject of the vehicle". So...now what does THAT mean??? HELP!!

p100 · January 2004

You can get aftermarket Bosch sensors for something like $ 30 a piece for your car. I would never pay Mazda outrageous sums that they charge for O2 sensors. Replacing O2 sensors by yourself is easy too - all you need is a special socket and you can rent that for free from Auto Zone. O2 sensors are very sensitive to alcohol contamination. So stay away from the cheapest gas in town - you never know what you are pumping into your tank. Staying with name brand gas always helps.

BTW I just found that I consistently get 10% better fuel economy with HESS gasoline. I use midgrade in my 99 ES V6. My mileage now is about 25MPG combined, compared to about 22.5 to 23 previously with other midgrade brands. Anybody experienced anything like this with HESS fuel?

p100 · January 2004

I was looking at a new Nissan TITAN pickup today and noticed that one of the rear wheels had two large lead weights next to each other. When I looked more closely, the tires were Bridgstone Duellers and the total mass of the two lead weights on one size of the wheel was 110 grams, or 4 ounces! I did not look on the inside of the rim to see if there are any weights there, but this reflects poor quality of the subject tire - 4 ounces of lead weights would be enough even for a 1100 - 20 commercial truck tire and is way too much for a light truck tire. In fact, this tire should have been rejected by Nissan. It is very rare to see that much weight on any new car or truck wheel.

lewshel · January 2004

Yesterday I brought our 2000 626LX V6 Auto (66,000 miles) in for an oil change. After it was done the service writer said that the timing belt was due for a change. I checked the owner's manual which said that the interval in Massachusetts and four other states was at 105,000. I am anxious about this because while this has been a good car to own It has not been trouble free. It has had it's transmission replaced at 48,000 miles and the rear suspension bushings seem to be going again. I would like to know what other experiences you have had along these lines. This is our 4th Mazda and we hoped to keep it another year. We started out in 1979 with a 626 5 speed and then added a GLC Sport in 1982. After years of Toyotas (and we still own a 1992 Subaru with 165,000 for our son) we switched back to Mazda in 1997 for a 626 LX 4 cylinder auto, which ran fine for the first 135,000 miles (except for the 3 transmissions,a Ford POS. When it came time for a new car last March I swapped the 1997 Mazda for a VW Golf TDI which handles about as well as the old GLC but gets 50mpg. We still have the 2000 626 and I am getting nervous. My dealer has quoted 800 plus for a 60,000 mile service including the timing belt. I thought the 6 was the engine with the good transmission and the better history. I would not buy a Mazda with any automatic after this.

p100 · January 2004

If the recommended replacement interval for the timing belt is 105K miles, then wait until then to have it done. I believe that Mazda recommends that the belt be visually inspected at 60K for any signs of deterioration. What you need to do at 60 K miles, however, is to replace your spark plugs and plug wires. Recommend staying with the original platinum Denso plugs (available from sparkplugs.com for about $ 7.50 a piece, or $ 18 from a Mazda dealer) and original type Mazda plug wires.

My 99 626 ES V6 has a manual transmission which has been bullet proof so far (77k miles). I had some problems with the car during the warranty period - namely bad CV joints and defective front hub. Also leaking coolant overflow tank, which caused A/C to quit working intermittenly. The only problem I had after warranty expiration so far was a failed trunk release switch. BTW I still have not changed the timing belt although they recommend it at 60K miles. It is the same belt that they use on cars sold in states with a 105K replacement interval.

windowphobe6 · January 2004

Before you write the check, ask them what all it entails; dealers have a tendency to tack on extra services of dubious utility. Our local Mazda store has some power-steering-flush service they try to push every 30k or so.

Regarding the timing belt: if the recommended interval is 105k, Mazda does indeed suggest inspection at 60k. On the other hand, if you're going to go to the trouble of pulling the cover to look at the belt, you might as well replace it and be done with it; you've already paid most of the labor charge.

My 2000 LX has had no unscheduled repairs except for replacing a wiper blade following an incident with a vandal and fixing a small break in the windshield (high-speed pebble in the Carolinas). It is of course out of warranty now.

p100 · January 2004

The reason that Mazda recommends timing belt replacement at 60K miles in some states and at 105k miles in others is that some states require that new cars sold in those states not require major maintenance before 100k miles. Replacing a timing belt is considered major maintenance. The belt is the same in all cars sold in all states to my knowledge. I asked my local Mazda dealer if there are two different timing belts used in the V6 model. The answer was no.

I believe that the same applies to the 4 cylinder model.

windowphobe6 · January 2004

The belts are indeed identical; this is simply the state intruding into an area where it has neither business nor expertise. (California, unsurprisingly, did it first.)

I am inclined to split the difference and change the belt at 82,500 miles.

rotarykid · January 2004

You still need to tell me what the code #'s were if I am to give you any help with your car. Your first mistake was taking your car to "EX PER TECH" (you're kidding right?). If you do enough research, and have the means, then fix it yourself. If you cant do that-take it to the dealer. Yes, we do charge more.....but pay me now or pay me later is a motto which I stand behind.Good luck getting any satisfaction from "the owner". Wouldnt be the first time a customer had their car "repaired" at pep boys or similar, and then the customer finally breaks down and brings it to us only to find out the repairs were covered under the 80k emissions warranty, or there was a special service program related to the problem. I dont want to hear all the horror stories now about everyone's experience with a dealer.....I know that dealerships arent perfect and they do screw people from time to time, but my 18 years of experience with mazdas cant be beat by any tech in an non-dealer shop just because he has a big red tool box and a lap top. ex per tech....lmao

p100 · January 2004

The remote trunk release switch on my 99 626 no longer opens the trunk. I can still open the trunk with the remote control. So I assume that the door mounted trunk release switch is defective, rather than the trunk lock actuator, which I would assume responds to both the switch and the remote commands.

Has anybody replaced this switch before? Do you have to remove the door panel to get to it? Once I get the switch out, I will jumper the leads and see if the trunk pops open, If yes, the switch is definitely defective.

p100 · January 2004

Windowphobe6:
Would you replace the camshaft and front crankshaft seals , as well as the water pump and the tensioner with the first timing belt change at say, 82,500 miles as you suggested? Does Mazda require valve clearance adjustment on the 99 model at 60k miles? Removing the valve covers on the V6 is not an easy job and I read somewhere that you need special tools to adjust the valves or you must remove all four cams.

rotarykid · January 2004

there is a trunk release shut off switch located on the left sidewall inside the trunk. it's a valet bypass. I'm not going to assume you know this already because I had a customer in on tuesday with the same situation.
Are the valves on a 99 v6 even adjustable? I'm not sure myself. definitely replace the seals and water pump while the belts off.
also replace the drive belts for p/s and a/c.

p100 · January 2004

I am well aware of the location of the switch in the trunk on the left side because the darn plastic cover around the switch periodically falls off, as it is not attached very well. I thought that this is an emergency trunk release switch mandated by law if somebody gets accidentally locked inside the trunk. Is this really a valet trunk release bypass? I will try to flip the switch and see what happens.

Concerning the valves, 98 and up models have solid valve lifters, not hydraulic type. Did not know this myself, until somebody pointed this out recently.

BTW, I already replaced the driving belts at 65K miles. Does anybody know what is the life expectancy of the 626 V6 engine that is carefully maintained? Is this a good engine?

p100 · January 2004

Thanks rotarykid! You were right - I flipped the switch in the trunk and the trunk release works fine. I must have accidentally bumped the switch when removing something from the trunk.

windowphobe6 · January 2004

The old rule applies: if it will be a pain in the neck to do it later, do it now and get it out of the way.

A well-maintained 2.5 should be good for an easy 180-200k or more; it's very lightly stressed (even with the short gearing and concomitant high RPMs) and barely works up a sweat.

Mazda recommends 48k between valve-clearance inspections, though I have yet to hear from anyone who says he needed an adjustment that early. The tricky part (and where the Special Service Tool comes into play) is overcoming the spring to see just how big a shim one needs to meet clearance specs. I can't speak to this directly, but I do know that my solid-lifter '75 Toyota Celica needed exactly one valve adjustment in 195k miles; somehow I don't think this is going to be a big issue.

p100 · January 2004

I found out that Chevron Techron fuel cleaner does wonders for my 99 ES V6. I highly recommend this to anyone. The cost is about $ 5 a bottle (Wallmart sells it). Just mix with about 8 gallons of fuel (instructions on the bottle say up to 12 gallons)in your tank about every 5K miles and run the tank almost empty to get maximum cleaning results. This stuff slowly decarbons your engine, and cleans the injectors. Regular use will keep your fuel system in good shape and will prevent hesitation and loss of power at high speeds.

learnw · January 2004

Well I bought the 2000 626 Lx with 68K. The high pitched whine continued and belt noise developed. Two days ago it all came to a head and the car shut down with all indicator lights on (battery, check engine, temp at peak!!)
It was the alternator bearings.
Replaced the alternator (no cost)and belt and all noise has gone.
Hope that is it!

skibry1 · January 2004

48K and still going problem free. By the way Walter
how do 'say' the year of your zoom/zoom. Does yours
have a clutch...we luv our left-leg flexor. Good luck
with this fine automobile.

p100 · January 2004

I am glad that you found the problem. I have not responded to your previous post, but I have seen this problem before. My father's 1976 Olds 98 had a whining noise coming from the engine when one of the engine belts broke and got tangled in the other belts. It turned out that the A/C compressor clutch bearing got damaged and it caused whining noise.

zoomzoom626 · January 2004

Past couple cold mornings I noticed that my shifter gate(2000 626 V6 5spd) is making squealing noise when I shift from 1st to 2nd...it goes away after car warms up..what is the way to lubricate the gate and how would I remove the vinyl cover to get to it?

slickdog · January 2004

My shifter is making that noise as well, but only when it's down close to 0 degrees. I've had two of the vinyl shift boots replaced by my dealer because they ripped in the extreme cold weather, and the mechanics had to pull the console out each time to do the work. Not sure how easy it is, but there seem to be a pair of covered screws on either side of the console in front of the seats, and I believe there may be a couple inside the console compartment as well. I've removed center consoles from other cars in the past, and it's usually not difficult.

carguy58 · January 2004

sure beating cars to death isn't?

Mazda 626

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