Mazda 626

windowphobe6 · May 2001

All the V6 cars were snapped up early.

(And if I had to jounce up and down 81st Street in Tulsa, I'd probably want the V6 too.)

dayokayode · May 2001

ahastings: I think if you get the 4cyl 5sp combo, you may still be able to have some zoom zoom. The sluggish auto 4cyl combo, however, is not as fun to drive as the 6cyl (auto or 5sp). I used to lease a 97 4cyl auto combo; although the car was fun to drive (ride and handling were great), the lack of power/torque was often frustrating especially with the ac on during the Summer. I currently have a 00lxv6; although low-end torque is now what it ought to be (you could say power corrupts'; we always want more power/torque), it definitely screams zoom zoom once it gets going.

ahastings · May 2001

I will test drive the 4 cylinder model back in Tulsa soon and see what I think. For a V6 I think I have to reach out to Dallas.

I don't mean to send everyone gasping and coughing for air, but I have never driven a stick and am looking for an automatic tranny. =-)

I'll find out when I test drive it if I can live with the performance (mpg and price are other positives) but what I am really concerned about is: Are the 4 cylinder engines (automatic) clearly less reliable than their V6 counterparts? My friend has had a horrible time with her Ford Contour and I worry about any involvment with Ford transmission components.

windowphobe6: I've got 81st St. beat, I'm moving to Chicagoland in early June.

windowphobe6 · May 2001

Gas mileage will not, I suspect, be that much better with the four, if only because it's working so hard. (After a reasonable break-in period, I'm getting the rated 22 mpg in town, but note that the V6 is guesstimated only slightly lower.) If you're used to driving as though you were keeping eggs under the gas pedal, you'll find the four-banger rather slow to get under way; driven with more brio, it's decidedly more responsive. The torque peak on the four is at 3000 rpm, on the low side for a DOHC, but you'll need to keep the revs at least that high for maximum Zoom Zoom. Out on the superslab, where revs are high anyway, it works quite nicely, though you'll still never confuse it with the V6.

The CD4E bottomed out in '94-'95. It's now on the road to recovery. And while everyone (except Jerry) praises the GF4A-EL that was used in the V6 cars all those years, I've noticed that a lot of people with base Millenias (same drivetrain) utterly abhor it. The biggest problem, I believe, has been Mazda's failure to make any sensible recommendations for transmission service; I wouldn't let either of these boxes go for more than two years without fresh Dexron.

jstandefer · May 2001

I don't mind the GF4A-EL for use in the 626. However, I am not a big fan of any automatic tranny... once you've driven a 626 V6 5-spd, it's hard to look at the auto...

I have to agree with many Millenia owners who have the 2.5L V6 as opposed to the 2.3L Miller Cycle V6. The GF4A-EL in the Millenia can be quite horrid! It must be the Millenia's extra weight, because the tranny becomes quite indecisive with spinal-cord-injury-inducing upshifts and if you floor it for about 5 seconds, neck-snapping drivetrain destroying downshifts. Of course sometimes, the 2.5L Millenia's just can't seem to stay in a gear. It is most horrid when sitting in rush hour traffic, creeping along at 5mph... The slightest touch of the throttle feels as if the tranny is totally disengaged for a second and then it downshifts into first and thrusting the car forward so you have to slam on the brakes. Evil. Evil. Evil.

jstandefer · May 2001

It's funny... the Ford CD4E has presented nightmares for some 626 owners. However, some of the best automatic transmissions found in any of the Mazda's are the super-smooth 5-spd auto in the B4000 pickup, and the smooth and responsive 4-spd auto found in the MPV. Alas, both of those are Ford transmissions...

ateixeira · May 2001

Ford is a big company, with some great and some very poor products. It's kind of hit or miss.

-juice

windowphobe6 · May 2001

Actually, I thought that was the GF, yoked to the Duratec V6.

And I have to wonder what the Tribscape people think of the CD4E.

jstandefer · May 2001

It may be the case... although it certainly doesn't act like the GF. Malt?

I don't believe the Tribscape uses the CD4E, as the 4-cyl is mated to a 5-spd only. Only the V6 is mated to an auto tranny.

maltb · May 2001

I must say that Mazda is very creative when it comes to programming transmissions for their perceived demography.

When available, I always opt for the manual trans and I have infinite transmission logic stored in my naugen.
Modes:
Solo -
Cop present/absent
Good day/bad day
High gas prices/normal gas prices
Night driving in a desolate business park(most radical of all modes)

Passengers -
Wife(same logic as solo-good day until she gets freaked)
In laws(that Lincoln feel)
Parents(somewhere between in-laws & wife)
Friends(constantly varied)
Kids(somewhere between Barney and Freddy Kruger)

Forgive me: It's Friday

jstandefer · May 2001

I must say that I have always enjoyed your creative and original posts, even if you do steer around some of my "Is Mazda going to" questions!!!

Keep them up!!!! And, as always, thanks for the good info!!

jstandefer · May 2001

Here's a link to a page about the European 626 MPS concept. With a 5-spd manual tranny, all-wheel-drive, and a 280hp twin-turbo 2.5L V6, I bet this thing moves!

http://www.mazdafun.com/626MPS.htm

ateixeira · May 2001

I believe one of the leaders of the Tribute/Escape groups had transmission failure early on, so they may not be too fond of the CD4E either...

-juice

eeor · May 2001

found these two cars in a repo lot, being sold "as is". good deals?

#1-

98 626 (could have sworn it was an es, but...)
auto, pwr windows/locks/mirrors, cruise, cd player, alloy wheels, cloth, and what looked like a 2.0 engine. (doesn't sound like an es) 79,000 miles(apparently used as a company car, so most likely highway miles, with decent maintenance, right?)

price- $9600 (plus tax, etc)

#2-

96 626 (unsure of trim)- auto, pwr windows/locks, alloy (premium?) wheels, spoiler, cruise, cloth (similarly stocked- could be same trim) 98,000 miles, private owner.

price- $8500

any help and insights would be appreciated. bear in mind these are repos and are being sold as is. interiors aren't the best, but are ok. unsure of maintenance, but seem fine. how reliable are these cars after having so many miles on them? will the auto tranny hold up?

i checked the vin #s and they both came out clean. 1st was used commercially, the second was leased.

thanks

windowphobe6 · May 2001

In the fifth generation ('98 and later), ES is strictly a trim level; you can buy a four-cylinder ES, though the automatic is mandatory if you do. On the other hand, ES generally means leather, so if you're finding cloth, you're not finding the ES. The DX was still around through '98, but with this level of equipment, I'm thinking LX for both of these cars.

There are no particular issues peculiar to either of these models, though they suffer the usual aging-626 quirks that I've mentioned before in this space and others. The 2.0 engine isn't indestructible, but it takes a long time (or really bad treatment) to kill. I prefer the '96 suspension settings, which are less squishy than those in the '98, but the '98 has a bit more room in back. If you're considering either of them, spend a few bucks (maybe $100 or so) getting it evaluated by a competent mechanic, and if you buy, I suggest having an auxiliary transmission cooler installed, which should reduce the incidence of one potential tranny problem.

jbt21 · May 2001

I am very close to deciding on a Mazda "98" 626 ES V6. It has 36,000 miles on it. My question is, I have talked with some people who have had older model Mazda's that thought they were great and lasted a long time. How is everyone's experiences with the newer model's (since Ford got involved). I can get the car for $12,750 (that includes tax,title, tabs - ready to roll). Is this a good price? it seems like it to me. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks

ateixeira · May 2001

I think Ford's involvement is pretty much limited to the auto tranny on 4 cylinder models only, so that one's pure Mazda.

-juice

maltb · May 2001

Sounds like a fair deal!

Ditto Juice's comments.

windowphobe6 · May 2001

I'm not fond of leather, at least in the automotive context, so I tend to lean towards the LX models, but any '98 V6 should be solid, and if you've already driven it, you know it's a sweet ride. Sign the check and Zoom on.

curtnheidi · May 2001

Option #1 should be at least $1500-$2000 less

Option #2 should be at least at least $2000 less

If this dealer sold these cars at this price, he would probably make $2500-$3000 on each car.

I just sold my 98 626LX 47000 miles, under warranty, new tranny, excellent condition, for $8700. That was after advertising it for 6 months at $9600.

The reason the resale is so poor is that the last 2-3 years the new body style has been popular with rental car companies. The market is now flooded with these cars, and the resale is hitting rock bottom.

You can find a 99 626LX for $9800 with 30K on it. That might be a better option at that that price range.

Good luck,

Curt

jbt21 · May 2001

Well everyone, I just picked up a 98 626 AS (V6 5 spd.) last night. It had 36K on it, black cherry (the deep maroon) in color, with the tan interior. I love it so far. The five speed is a lot of fun, except I got stuck in road construction and that wasn't fun. Anyway I hope I like the car as much in a couple years as I do today.

I have a couple questions. #1 (Windowphobe, I know you may be able to answer this) Are there any maintenance issues I should now about. Small stubborn things I may be able to prevent just by knowing ahead of time.

#2) What is the best way to keep the leather seats in good shape?

#3) Is there any particular wax that anyone suggests, or will any old wax do?

#4) It has been at least 5 yr since I've had a manual transmission, so I don't know if it's just me or not. When you let off the gas in the lower gears does the car tend to jerk or jolt a little? When I let off, it doesn't seem to decelerate real smoothly at first (this is the best way I can describe it). Like I said I don't know if it's just me or is this common.

Well everyone, Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks!!!!

ateixeira · May 2001

For #4, try easing off the gas. With a manual tranny, practice makes perfect.

I have a question, though. My wife's V6 has an audible valve clatter when it's cold. We've done the timing belt and the 60k service, but this has me a bit concerned.

What do you guys think? I'm using 10w30 dino oil right now. Would a different viscosity make a difference?

-juice

maltb · May 2001

You can try a thinner oil like 5W-20 or try something like Rislone or Marvel in the oil to loosen things up a bit. Other than that, there are probably a few pesky lifters that are sticky until they reach a comfortable temp.

jstandefer · May 2001

The Mazda 2.5L DOHC V6 is particularly known for noisy lifters when the engine is cold, and would be considered normal operation. But, once that sweet engine is warmed up, the clatter should stop and engine should be virtually silent.

ateixeira · May 2001

It does, so maybe I shouldn't worry about it. You can literally stand next to the car and hear the tap-tap tap-tap tap-tap.

I would've tried the thinner oil, but summer is about to start.

-juice

windowphobe6 · May 2001

It gets better as you get more familiar with it; every gearbox is slightly different, and there's always a little bit of a learning curve, even if you learned to double-clutch from Roger Penske.

And do take a look at the tach between shifts. You may find that the needle is moving in unexpected directions, perhaps in response to emissions concerns.

As with any 626, you should keep your eye on the CV boots, if only because replacing an axle is such a pain. It's not imminent or anything - last one I did was at 85k or so, which is a long way off - but sometimes I wonder if maybe Mazda would have been better off making these things out of cork.

windowphobe6 · May 2001

In general, if the lifter clatter quits in a couple of minutes, it's probably nothing to worry about.

eeor · May 2001

thanks for your help guys. i think i'll pass.

eor

ateixeira · May 2001

Thanks windowphobe6. I feel much better now.

-juice

alsoknownas · May 2001

We have a 93 626 LX bought used over a year ago. Had a freshly rebuilt tranny and the price was right. The thing is loaded down to the factory sunroof. I've had to replace a cv joint and boots, muffler and brake pads but thats about it. I've got a question that I'll get to.

Ever since we've had the car the engine check light would come on after driving the car for a few km (about the same location from home every time). If we start it in the city and drive slow it takes longer for the check light to come on. I've always had a suspicion that its only one of the sensors acting up, and hoping its not something to do with the tranny rebuild. Car performance is wonderful and does not change when the light comes on so I have not been too worried about it. The tranny rebuild was also well done and shifting is very good.

However, had this weird thing that happened to the throttle body area of the car. For awhile it seemed the solenoid on the throttle body was toast and the idle speed dropped, the car was rough, etc. My mechanic wanted to replace the whole throttle body (which was way expensive) but I opted for a temporary fix (a bolt to the throttle cable)until I could find a second hand throttle body. Well, after a few months the thing corrected itself and I have not seen this problem again. Weird.

Is this just a typical 626 electrical problem? Or do I have an erratic throttle or air sensor? Could a loose gas cap lid cause the engine check light to come on? I do seem to have this problem with the button on the gas lid latch sticking and wonder if this should be replaced.

Other than that just want to say I've owned several types of cars (my other is a 92 MPV) and this 626 amazes me how solid it still is after 250,000 km, even the minor details like trim and floor mats.

aka

windowphobe6 · May 2001

It is most likely not a transmission issue. (The engine and tranny share the computer, but if there's something tranny-related, the HOLD light usually comes on.)

The '93s, not being OBD II-compliant, aren't that sensitive to gas-cap anomalies. If it's running normally otherwise, I tend to suspect an oxygen sensor on its last legs.

neon96 · May 2001

My son and daughter just purchased (less then two months old) a used 1994 Mazda 626 with about 70,000 miles on it. Two hours after they drove the car out of the lot the Hold light came on and started "blinking". We took it back to the used car dealer, and they couldn't figure out what is wrong with it. After repeated returns they said they don't have the diagnostic tool for it. We purchased a repair manual on it and it didn't say what the "blinking" Hold light meant. The only thing we found out was that Mazda is owned partially by Ford, and the Haynes repair manual for the Mazda 626 had a Ford Probe on the cover. The actual owners manual says to not drive it or damage will result to the transmission. Boy am I hoping for some good news about this problem. Thanks.

ateixeira · May 2001

Usually a solid light is just a warning, and blinking light is more serious. You should not drive it until it's fixed.

Obviously, the dealer should take care of it. In many states there is a 30 day warranty, at a minimum.

-juice

maltb · May 2001

The solid hold light is similar to the O/D off light in many cars. It just means that it will hold it out of O/D which is not a warning but rather an indicator of the transmission mode. Agreed, the blinking light is a problem.

FYI neon96, the Probe and 626 were built on the same assembly line at a Mazda/Ford plant in Michigan. The nice thing is that they are mostly Mazda components with the exception of the lovely CD4E slush box.

Haynes manuals: Not worth their weight in dirt. The factory manual is a much better education and runs from $50-100 at you friendly local dealer.

windowphobe6 · May 2001

With '94s generally, you should check to see if the speedometer gear has been replaced per Mazda's "Special Service Program". If the speedo is erratic, this is almost certainly the issue.

The lovely CD4E slushbox was cranky in this year. How was it driving beforehand?

pnutboy · June 2001

hello windowphobe6, I am seriously looking at buying a '96 es V6 AUTO TARNS. It has 67k miles. I read much of the posts and saw that
this car is 4th generations.
Can I add or tell me the maintenance(of what to expect)

change timing belt
valve cover gasket
water pump?
plugs & wires
o2 sen?

Is there anything I'm missing? The previous owner still has a warranty left until November. The car is in excellent condition. Please tell me what to expect to put into it at this miles and what I may be missing?

Thanks

windowphobe6 · June 2001

The timing belt, says Mazda, ought to be changed every 60k miles. Water pumps usually last longer than that, but if you run into trouble with yours before 120k, change it and the timing belt at the same time - it saves a lot of duplication of labor.

Valve-cover gaskets can be left alone unless there's actual leakage - check the spark-plug wells for oil. These are relatively easy to fix, the front bank more so than the rear. And if you do find oil in the plug wells, go ahead and replace the wires.

Oxygen sensors seldom seem to last beyond about 80k on these cars - and you have two of them working under different conditions, so they won't likely fail simultaneously.

Keep an eye on your CV boots; they tend to crack after seven or eight years, which allows the joints to deteriorate. Rebuilt axles are fairly inexpensive, but a pain in the neck to install.

And get the transmission serviced. Mazda has never specified an interval for tranny service for these cars, which, in my view, has contributed substantially to its not-entirely-Ford-induced reputation for dubious transmissions. I wouldn't let any Mazda tranny go 30k miles without a fluid replacement.

pat · June 2001

Hi friends,

Catherine Heins is looking for people to interview who have switched from American to Japanese cars in the past few years-- especially folks who wouldn't have given a Toyota or Honda the time of day in the 1970s.

She's a business reporter at the Yomiuri Shimbun, which is the biggest daily paper in Japan with a circulation of 14 million. They are writing a feature story about Japanese automakers' continuing success in expanding production in the U.S. and snatching market share from the Big Three even on their former home turf of light trucks.

If you fit this description and are willing to be interviewed, please call her directly at 212-582-5827 or e-mail her at catheins@yahoo.com. As always, you can contact me at jfallon@edmunds.com if you have any questions.

Thanks,

Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com

pnutboy · June 2001

Thanks a whole lot windowphobe6. I will go with you Suggestions list. I fell better knowing what to expect.

freds5 · June 2001

I have a 1998 626 lx with aboout 63k miles on it. The check engine light came on Friday night. Took to a local sevice center to see what the problem is (the dealer's not open over the weekend). They said the O2 censor is not picking up the oxygen as it is leaving the engine and the fuel/air mixture would be affected. They cleared the codes, so the check engine light would not come on. The part according to them will cost $200-$300 to replace (they did not have the part in stock and said it is dealer only part). They also said a fuel injection treatment may coax the O2 censor to pick up the O2 output correctly. Is this a problem that would be reacurring or is this only one time problem? Does the cost of the part sound reasonable/as well as the fuel injection cleaning? Also, will the dealer be able to fix the problem, since the service center cleared the check engine codes?

windowphobe6 · June 2001

I have my doubts that a fuel-injection treatment would have much of an effect on oxygen sensors; if the injection system truly needed treatment, you'd be noticing all manner of driveability issues.

And if the sensor is truly bad, the light will come back on soon enough, and you'll get to pay $200 or so to have it replaced. 60-80k is typical life for these critters.

ian18 · June 2001

I have replaced the two O2 sensors on my 93 Mazda 626 at 70,000 miles with Bosch units. The OEM price was over $200 each but I paid $60 each for the Bosch units at CarPart.com (with coupon). The Bosch units looked like a better quality part and have performed flawlessly. Also got rid of the intermittent engine light coming on.

edmund2460 · June 2001

I recently bought a PRO and while in the process of purchasing one recommended it to a an office worker who was looking for a car for her son. They ended up buying an Echo because 'they always bought from this Toyota dealer and they had never heard of the Protege!!'. Now the Echo was ranked 10th in a 13 car comparison by C&D in which the PRO was #1. They even called it a Toyota first (a mistake). This is my first Mazda and I bought it after doing a lot of reading. If it proves reliable, I will know it was the right choice. I don't think the general public is willing to start with a fresh slate and do the research. They go by 'perception' and general consensus. Toyota and Honda earned their spurs long ago and will continue to get business from the ones unwilling to think out of the box. Your are right about the idiot salesmen too who don't know their cars. I've seen the training certificates on the walls yet they can't tell you what car has the 16" wheels. But I would disagree that Mazda has more than their fair share of the undeducated salesmen. (Isn't it horrifying that these guys get some of our hard earned money?)

windowphobe6 · June 2001

It is said that most people pick a class and then make a list of maybe three cars out of that class from which to select. Getting Mazda into that first three will not be an easy task. At least their current advertising is a lot less inept than what we're used to from Mazda. (The new 626 spot - "Daddy, what's it like to drive?" - is downright wonderful, I think, and however much people may claim to hate the Zoom Zoom kid, by gum, he has brand identification.)

The problem in my part of the world is that the Mazda stores are all dualed with Ford, and there's always the question of whether Ford guys instinctively will push you to the Escape instead of the Tribute, to the Focus instead of the Protegé. I bought my current 626 from a Ford truck guy, but he'd done his homework on the Mazdas, and while his expertise didn't exceed mine (geez, that sounds pretentious, even for me), he was able to field questions and get answers where needed, and we quickly got to a workable deal. (And yes, I test-drove a Focus. I liked it.)

maltb · June 2001

If anything that fuel system treatment can damage your O2 sensor. Check the bottle for details.

dayokayode · June 2001

Someone deliberately and maliciously keyed' my 00626 while it was parked in a public lot yesterday afternoon. How come people are so mean and depraved?

The scratch is pretty long, noticeable and deep; as a perfectionist, it's been driving me nuts ever since. How can I remove it? I tried using a 3M scratch remover to no avail. I know that if I take it to the body shop, they'll charge me a lot to repair the finish.

Thanks for your anticipated assistance

jstandefer · June 2001

I, too, have had the evil 3-foot long key mark applied so generously to my car in a parking lot. I have no idea what possesses people to do such a thing!

Mine is pretty deep and goes down to the primer. There is not way to fix it other than having the entire panel(s) repainted. It is expensive and it sucks! I haven't done mine yet, but I will definitely have it done soon!

dayokayode · June 2001

I guess commiserating with other 'victims' helps a little. Although I know it's just a car and that nicks and scratches come with the territory, I was a little distraught that somebody will methodically deface another person's property.

But then, I've been called 'naive' because I just don't get why some sadists derive pleasure from 'hurting' other people.

C'est la vie, I guess.

cael · June 2001

Hi, I've got a 95 626 lx and it has the noisy lifters problem. I've already had 6 lifters replaced and it still is making the ticking sound after it warms up. Once these cars start ticking can they be stopped? What do I need to do to get this thing to stop ticking? Thanks

maltb · June 2001

Well you have 18 more to replace...

I've heard that synthetic oil keeps those little things clean or you may just try thinner oil like 5w-20.

Mazda 626

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