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My second question, I was recently rear ended, and was deemed not at fault. The car already has some other damages from a drunk driver who struck the car while parked. Now I'm debating whether it's worth it to replace the bumper. Her insurance cut me a check for the bumper, so it's my choice. The bumper damage is paint damage and one large crack on the right side that makes it somewhat flimsy. Any advice? Thanks everyone.
Char
As for the engine knocks, it may be that the mass air sensor needs replacing, however, if you are not losing acceleration power try a tankful of Premium gas.
If it still knocks on Premium, it isn't the quality of fuel, but something else.
Engine knock on a car that old could be anything, since you don't know the maintenance done in the past. It is 12 years old now.
Char
It worked...I made sure to make good contact with the tune button, and, lo and behold, the CD changed from Disc 2 to Disc 3...you are a genius, somewhere along the lines of Henry Ford, Walter Chrysler, and Mr. Daimler...
I owe you one choc chip cookie...
Bob
I am trying to figure out how the lights work on a 1992 Ford Crown Vic and I appreciate any owner/knowledgeable person to help me. It is my understanding that there is no daytime running light on a 1992 Ford CV for US market. Also, it is possible to turn on the headlamp (low or high beams) with the contact in the on position, however, the park lights will not come on with the contact in the on position. Am I correct?
I appreciate any help,
Regards,
Eric
ComforTreds are designs for comfort, TripleTreds for better traction.
We take it skiing and in the snow it will go. Rides well and is quiet, but not cheap.
The insecure "macho men" non verbally assert their "masculinity" by slaming car doors, talking loud, & insist on riding in the right front. However, when I have to put up with these types they are reminded to close the door gently and the Right front seat is reserved for my wife!
Suddenly engine running rough, lCheck Engine light and low fuel light on, so filled the tank.
Check Engine light stayed on.
Monday morning it was in the Ford shop. 4.4 hours later it was repaired by replacing the original plugs, wires, 02 sensor and fuel filter and running a can of injector cleaner through. $742 bill of which $396 = labor. Check Engine light is out.
How could all of the above captioned parts need replacement at the same time?
I'm thinking just sediment in the bottom of the tank could have plugged the injectors, but the plugs, wires, & oxygen sensor were replaced too as though it were SOP. These parts were fine until almost out of gas. 16.7 gallons filled it.
Your opinion on the above process is appreciated.
http://www.fordmanifoldsettlement.com/
One advantage of the Panther platform is it is well known, little changed design in the last 15 years that has little on it that would stump most mechanics. Nearly any independent garage can fix them relatively easily. I'd avoid the dealer and build a relationship with a well respected independent.
Thank you for your input. Part of the bill I did not mention was the Sales Tax of $50 plus a $7 charge for rags & such. In the process of paying, I asked if the bill included the "Sr. Citizen" discount. It didn't so they refigured and deducted 10% of the parts bill.
I agree the plugs, wires, filter, & maybe the o2 sensor needed or would have soon needed to be replaced. By doing so, the dealer prevented an early "Comeback" who would proclaim, "I just had it in here. Why didn't you repair it right the first time."
Finding the well respected independent mechanic is on my list.
Again, Thank you for your replies and opinions.
I just picked up a 97 Grand Marquis thru Ebay and am very pleased with the vehicle. This was one gamble that paid off!
Issues that hopefully someone can address with a suggestion:
1.) The front amber parking lights on the corners (between the low beam and cornering lamp) - My doesn't flash with the turn signal and I'm thinking it probably should. (If it should - any ideas as to why it isn't?)
2.) My hazards do not work - whether the car is running or not.
3.) The auto dimming rear view mirror doesn't work - as if it isn't getting power (much like hazards.) That was a pain this morning - especially since it was dark/rainy this morning on my a.m. commute.
Any help is appreciated.
Flashing airbag: My brother has a 93 Taurus that did the same thing. They never fixed it - just got used to it flashing. I'm sure that is not the answer you seek. My guess is corrosion on one of the sensors or something sensor related.
There are more questions than answers because most of us do not have SAE designations behind our name, but when we do have a solution based on personal experience, it is usually forthcoming and shared.
Euphonium, BA
2) Have you checked your fuses?
3) There is very little noticeable difference between day and night RVM on mine. The only noticeable difference in mine is night view "darkens" lights from the rear. They still bother me if I let them.
Good luck.
Had the car towed to the dealership and they determined a faulty "idle air control valve" which they replaced. Seemed they have fixed the problem this time - even the brake pedal comes up a little too - perhaps without the vacuum leak?
Love the GM, its shape and size. Too many vehicles slows down on the freeway whenever I approach - when they see the driver is not in uniform and the plate is not CA exempt etc, they sped away so fast....
I pulled all of the fuses in the interior. I guess I should check the fuses in the engine bay.
Thanks.
Examine the back of the mirror facing the windshield. If you locate a sensor - eye cover the whole sensor with black electrician's tape. Covering the sensor blocks out other outside lighting and that sensor picking up the outside light diminishes the effectiveness of the darkening.
In checking the Hazard lights - do your Brake lights work? If brake lights work, I'd gamble it is in need of a turn signal switch.
I'm in MI, and the dark blue GM color fools drivers into thinking I'm a State Trooper. I like the color, but think I'll choose another next time.
Whats the proper tire pressurer for this year?
Thanks in advance.
Congrats on the purchase - gas prices have made them even better deals.
If I was not concerned about the airbag going off for no reason, I'd just either pull the bulb for the warning light, or put a piece of electrical tape over it on the dash.
Airbags supposidely have only about a 15 year life. That being said, below is the list for the airbag warning light codes. Maybe yours is code 51 (5 flashes followed by one), which could be a blown fuse?
CODE - COMPONENT/FAULT DESCRIPTION
No Indicator - Inoperative Lamp Circuit or No Ignition Voltage to Diagnostic Monitor
Continuous Indicator - Diagnostic Monitor Disconnected or Inoperative
12 - Low Battery Voltage
13 - Air Bag or Crash Sensor Circuit Shorted to Ground
21 - Safing Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
22 - Safing Sensor Output Circuit Shorted to Battery Voltage
23 - Safing Sensor Input Feed/Return Circuit Open
24 - Safing Sensor Output Feed/Return Circuit Open or Low Resistance in a Primary Crash Sensor
32 - Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
33 - Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
34 - Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
35 - Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
41 - Primary Crash Sensor Circuits High Resistance or Open
44 - RH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
45 - Circuit Going to RH Radiator Ground Monitor Splice Open
46 - LH Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
51 - Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal Fuse Blown and Short to Ground No Longer Exists. Short to Ground was Serviced or is Intermittent
52 - Back-up Power Supply Voltage Boost Fault
53 - Internal Diagnostic Monitor Fault
Rapid Continuous Flashing - All Primary Crash Sensors Disconnected
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Fuel economy is great and you can feel the minimal rolling resistance.
Understand all the racing vehicles on the speedways have their tires at much higher psi - 50 psi or up?
I am doing FEMA disaster work in New Orleans and have a minimum of tools with me but I do have my Snap-on diagnostic computer.
an help or suggestions is welcome.
?should I plug the hoses?
?should I connect them?
?should I plug one and leave one open?
my soleniod valve broke and the shild was bent bt I fixed it Can this unit be relocated like into the trunk? New Orleans roads are in terrible condition so a repeat is likely to happen.
Flats from nails are very common occurance to us disaster inspectors. Road hazards and broken pavement are common.
Considering the extent of destruction, quality of structures before it was laid waste,and located significantly below sea level, is it reasonable and prudent to rebuild - creating another target for the next hurricane?