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Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis

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Comments

  • weltronweltron Member Posts: 11
    Try this site, I think you'll like it. (www.crownvic.homepage.com)
  • cebuanocebuano Member Posts: 24
    The noise must be from the trac control as Weltron mentioned. I don't hear that noise as I don't have trac control...but I do have the hdlg/perf pkg w/self adjusting air shocks. Haven't heard any noise from my air shock system self adjustment.

    Let me know your observance of your instrument cluster during the DARK hours...and if the trip odometer appears disproportionately bright compared with the rest of the cluster. Thanks
  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    Not to be a stickler on minor details, but I think the pump self-test noise is part of the ABS system. The TC system works through the ABS system, of course, but if you don't have TC, you should still hear the pump test.
  • rjones62rjones62 Member Posts: 3
    I am thinking of ordering a new Crown Victoria with the Handling and Performance Package but I do not want the 3.55 ratio. I would rather have the standard 2.73. My questions are, can I special order and have the 2.73 instead of the 3.55 and if not how hard and costly would it be to change over once I receive the car. Thanks for your help.
  • weltronweltron Member Posts: 11
    Btroy is correct, it is a self test for the anti-lock brakes. This is an excerpt out of Fords service manual: Each time the vehicle is driven, as soon as vehicle speed reaches approximately 20km/h (13mph), the anti-lock brake module turns on the pump motor (2C256) for approximately one-half second. This is a normal function of the self-check by the anti-lock brake control module.
  • cebuanocebuano Member Posts: 24
    I have a feeling a big factory like that may lack the flexibility to take on special orders like. Just a guess. Do you want the 2.73 ratio because of fuel ecomony?
  • cebuanocebuano Member Posts: 24
    I guess I'll have to try listening for that pump test next time I reach 13-14 mph. Frankly, my new CV LX with h/p pkg has such a smooth and quiet ride that I just didn't notice many noises other than the touring tires making their way over the pavement.
  • dukecdukec Member Posts: 2
    My 1996 MGM has 66,000 on it with oem shocks. Do they need replacement, cause for me it really is hard to tell. It is the GS model and it really feels like it floats down the highway and keeping in a straight line is like hell. I love the car, but driving long distances can be cumbersome.

    Also, when I turn the wheel to either extreme, I hear a weird grinding noise. Must be related tot he suspenion, but was wondering if anyone had the same experience.
  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    diagnosing shocks on your own car can be really tough because they wear out so gradually that you can't really notice it, and you get used to it. I wouldn't be surprised if they were totally worn out at 66K. One thing you can do is the bounce-test. Using all of your body weight, depress one corner of your car and let it rebound. I believe it should spring up and then settle down slightly to the normal level. If it bounces up and down more than that, they should be replaced. You could also get a Ford mechanic to test it, or you could test-drive a new one and see if the floatiness that you feel in yours is absent in the new one.
  • dmersdmers Member Posts: 23
    I would recommend looking at a used GM/CV. Consumer Reports mag recommended the 95-96, and 98 GM/CV as "Good Used Cars."
    That is what I generally do every 4-5 years. I purchase a 1-2 year old w/ some warranty left and keep them for about 4-5 years__120-135K. The factory bugs are generally gone by the previous owner and I have a little peace of mind for a year w/ the remaining warranty. Buy the extended warranty contract on these cars is a waste of money.
    Normally, I have the expense of belts/hoses/shocks/battery/Brakes/Change Tranny fluid every 35K/Change oil every 2-3K/and that's about it.
    The ride and mileage for this size car is very good and cost per mile is great!
  • rjones62rjones62 Member Posts: 3
    Yes cebuano, #59, I have been told that you lose about 3 MPG in the city and even more than that on the highway. I like the idea of better handling but do not need the extra get up and go or the loss of MPG. Thanks
  • rjones62rjones62 Member Posts: 3
    Yes cebuano, #59, I have been told that you lose about 3 MPG in the city and even more than that on the highway. I like the idea of better handling but do not need the extra get up and go or the loss of MPG. Thanks
  • drchdrch Member Posts: 1
    To dukec:
    If the noise is only present with the steering wheel turned to the stop and is not the p.s. fluid pump, it is probably the steering stops scraping that you are hearing; the steering stops are welded onto the back of the lower control arms - look for a shiny worn spot where the stops are making contact - you should be able to just apply some thick grease to the contact surface of the steering stop and test if the noise goes away.
  • cebuanocebuano Member Posts: 24
    To L8_Apex:
    I don't know how to contact you other than posting a message here. Ever since the "Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis" -part one- topic was archived and this -part two- topic started, this topic no longer appears on the main Sedans Topic List page. New visitors who may be interested in this topic will not know we exist. Kindly add "Ford Crown Victoria and Mercury Grand Marquis - 2" to the list.
    Thank you
  • golfnut5golfnut5 Member Posts: 202
    Cebuano, I noticed tonight the excessive brightness around the trip odometer. Although this looked a little weird, I was not really annoyed by it. I do not know what could be done now to correct the problem. I would not want my dash taken apart for this small annoyance. Put the first 700 miles on my new GM this week, enjoyed every mile, what a great riding automobile.
  • golfnut5golfnut5 Member Posts: 202
    Dukec, I agree with Drch. I had a 95 GM that made the same noise when turning hard left or right. When I took my GM to the dealer for explanation, I was told the noise was coming from the steering stops. I stopped turning hard left and right. I now have a 2000 GM and do not hear the steering noise.
  • cebuanocebuano Member Posts: 24
    Thanks a lot Golfnut5 for the feedback on the trip odometer brightness. I also thought about risk of introducing new problems by having someone open up the cluster. So you're up to 700 miles already. I picked up my CV LX last Friday, a day before you got your GM, and it will probably roll over to 300 miles tomorrow. The mileage is low because I live quite close to work. Next Friday the wife and I will be go on a long drive from here in northern CA down to Las Vegas, then to Phoenix to visit relatives. By the time we return home the following week, the odometer will probably be well over the 2000 mark. It will be a good break-in for the car, and the way this car's been performing, I look forward to a very comfortable cruise down to the southwest and back.
  • cerealspillercerealspiller Member Posts: 1
    My 98 CV has developed a squeak, most noticeable at low speeds, that's definitely related to the fit of the hood. If I raise the hood, no problem. Lubricating all the touch points seems to help some, but not for long. I know, kind of a dumb problem, but wondering if anyone else has seen it.

    Thanks.
  • cebuanocebuano Member Posts: 24
    My owner's manual states that the recommended tire pressure is shown on the door label. But the label on my door does not show the pressure as illustrated in the manual. Can anybody tell me what the proper cold pressure is for the touring tires that come with the hdlg/perf package? Thanks...
  • kinleykinley Member Posts: 854
    35 p.s.i.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    They usually have the rteccommended pressure printed there, and its usually going to be higher than Ford's reccomendation. Ford tells you to run a slightly lower pressure because they want the car to ride a little better, but the tire company gives you a higher number because they want the tire to last longer than the competition's.
  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    The pressure written on the tire's sidewall is the *maximum* pressure the tire is designed to operate with. If you were using the tire to carry it's maximum rated load, it would be the correct pressure. The pressure recommended by the car manufacturer takes into account the actual weight of the vehicle (fully loaded) and the tire size and construction to arrive at a pressure appropriate for the given car/tire combination. This recommended pressure will be less than the maximum pressure printed on the tire. If you use the maximum pressure you will have overinflated tires, they will wear unevenly, you will have an unduly harsh ride, and your braking distances will likely increase. On the up side, your gas mileage will improve, but it's not worth the benefit. Use the pressure recommended by the car manufacturer.
  • cebuanocebuano Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for the responses. I do recall seeing the 35 psi number before in this conference, but wasn't sure if that included the touring tire. Not much difference I guess, other than the slightly higher speed rating. My previous cars indicated recommended pressure on the door label. Don't know why the pressure's missing on the door label of my CV, but thanks for the info!!!
  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    Cebuano, check for a second door label. You may be looking at the wrong one. I think the one on my car that addresses tire pressure is hidden by the right, rear door. It is different from the one that lists GVWR, etc.
  • cebuanocebuano Member Posts: 24
    btroy, thanks for the tip. I looked, and sure enough, I found a big label when I opened the right rear door. Turns out the pressure should be 32 psi (35 for cop cars).
  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    I thought that's what you would find. I run 32 in my front tires and a little less (30) in my rear tires because I usually drive with no passengers and no cargo.
  • golfnut5golfnut5 Member Posts: 202
    Btroy,

    I usually drive with no passengers and no cargo, I have never heard of using different tire pressures for this situation. Will this help keep the rear on the ground and produce a better ride. Does using different tire pressure for this driving condition really make that much difference.
  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    To answer your questions: Yes. Probably not.

    The tire pressure decal on some FWD cars list different pressures for the rear tires depending on whether the car is fully-loaded or half-loaded. Different tires carry different amounts of your car's weight. It makes sense to me that tires carrying more weight need more air pressure.
  • kinleykinley Member Posts: 854
    the Goodyear GA's held 35psi and now the Michelin X1 holds 35psi, same mother in law.
  • tbear503tbear503 Member Posts: 70
    When will this topic be put in the regular listing so we won't have to "Search" for postings on the two best values in the automotive market?
  • L8_ApexL8_Apex Member Posts: 187
    I'm assuming that by "regular listing" you mean the first page of topics as there are three. Currently, the Town Hall sorts topics by topic number, ascending, by default. As the old topic was number 104, it naturally appeared at the start of the list. As new topics are added, number 3207 will migrate towards the first page but it will be a while. Unfortunately, that's the way it is. I've been lobbying to have the default sort order switched to most recent post, descending which would keep the most active and popular topics on the first page. That could be good or bad for some topics but would help new users find the most frequently referenced topics more easily. For now, you can either click on "Last Post" to sort by most recent post or "end of the list" to get to the higher topic numbers instead of using the Search tool.

    Thanks,

    L8_Apex
    Sedans Host
  • dranoeldranoel Member Posts: 79
    The CV and the GM are undoubtedly the best buys in the automotive market for maximum size at minimum price. The both do their appointed jobs admirably which fulfills the needs for at least 75% of automotive buyers. They really don't have any competition. That being said, they are bland, boring generic transportation devices, I find them as exciting as a refrigerator.
  • golfnut5golfnut5 Member Posts: 202
    Dranoel, I agree that the CV & GM are bland, but if you take a hard look at Toyotas, Hondas and General Motors, they are also bland. Chrysler has the cutting edge design, but mechanically are junk, just read the posts on this site.
  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    I usually wear jeans or khakis. You could say they are bland and generic, but I think of them as classic and comfortable and they suit me just fine. Maybe a sequined jumpsuit excites you, but it doesn't affect me that way. I'll stick with what's comfortable on me.
  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    My previous car had a recommended maintenance interval for replacing the oxygen sensor. I noticed the CV's service schedule doesn't mention replacing it. Anybody have any information on whether and when it would be a good idea to change it? Same question for the fuel filter.
  • cebuanocebuano Member Posts: 24
    So you find the CV & GM as exciting as a refrigerator? Auto thieves feel the same way. That's why we CV/GM owners enjoy very low insurance rates as well as comfort and safety. Keep the alarm on your 99 Mercedes in good order :-)
  • dranoeldranoel Member Posts: 79
    I view cars like a bag of golf clubs. Each one has its purpose. You like CV & GM for your game. I have minivan to cover my generic, bland transportation game.
  • bthompbthomp Member Posts: 69
    Styling is subjective. To me most cars look the same. Like others with this group, I like cars that run and are functional. You can beat on these cars, and they don't cost you an arm & leg to fix. The CV/GM vs Mercedes "issue" doesn't exist. As for "bland" if I wanted to drop 40+k on a car, I'd go to http://www.kennybrown.com/pantherintro.html and open up my own can of whoopa--! Some buy the image to make up for the life they don't have, others just have the life, and the image doesn't matter:-) I have other priorites in life other than buying a car for my MANY moods.
  • golfnut5golfnut5 Member Posts: 202
    Well said.
  • dynamikedynamike Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 GM with 18,000 miles on it; for the last 6 months, after driving 50 to 100 highway miles --- once off the parkway --- each time I stop or go over any size bump --- or hit the brakes --- there is a crunching/creaking sound like a bad spring/shock, or something coming from the front end! Ford says they never heard of a thing --- and my personal mechanic thinks it is somewhere in the suspension. I'm going to "ditch" soon --- if the problem isn't solved soon! Any ideas? Thanks!
  • jerry78jerry78 Member Posts: 2
    I ordered a Crown Vic in January with the important options (traction control, perf. pkg.)and at a great price. I'm really looking forward to driving it to work on Rt. 128/95 near Boston where the traffic is fairly intense. Luckily I have the reverse commute scenario (outbound in the morning) and people drive pretty fast. A big solid car which looks like a possible unmarked police car is fine with me. My question is, how long does it take to actually get these cars? The sales guy keeps telling me it's on the way, and I'm sure it is. When should I expect it?
  • wnicholswnichols Member Posts: 42
    I got my 99 GM in eight weeks - you should get yours any time now. Congrats.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    Driving east on I-20 thru louisiana, I saw at least half a dozen 18-wheelers loaded down with police package Crown Vics headed west. (Blacked out grille and no trim on front doors is how I know they were police cars.) It seems Ford is shipping these things pretty fast. Where exactly is the plant that makes them? (FWIW, there were a lot of truckloads of new Tauruses going north on I-85 out of atlanta too on that trip. I thought they made those things in Dearborne!)
  • kingfishguskingfishgus Member Posts: 112
    I noticed my 93 GM was hard to keep in a straight line after getting an alignment, especially on the Interstate. Thought it was me, but when I took it back and got another front end man, he said it was aligned incorrectly. Specs called for toe-in/out to be set at 0 degrees (I believe). Other technician had set it for 2 or 3 degrees, each side. We talked to other tech, and he said it is common to toe in cars at the upper limit, or a little more, because most people feel this makes their cars "handle" quicker. On my GM, it makes it hard to keep in a straight line. We reset to 0 degrees and it runs straight much better. If you are wandering around, make sure aligment tech sets it to specifications, not what he want's to set it at.
  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    The Crown Vics are built in St Thomas, Ontario, Canada, which is on Lake Ontario outside of Toronto. I'm not sure how they do it, but it is possible to ship by ocean-vessel, rail or truck from there. Kind of funny that this "domestic" car is built in a foreign country.
  • cebuanocebuano Member Posts: 24
    Jerry78,

    I ran into the same situation. I ordered a deep wedgewood blue CV with dark denim cloth seats on Jan. 17. On the seventh week of hearing nothing I started bugging the fleet manager I was working with. When he didn't call me back in a couple of days as he promised, I called him again and got his answering machine leaving a message asking if any action had been taken in trying to track my car. He called back a few hours later with the bad news that my CV had not been built yet. This was nearly two full two months after the order! He said the St. Thomas, Ontario factory was currently overloaded with government orders - I guess FBI, CIA, cops, whatever. That may explain Rea98d's siting of all those trucks loaded with CV cop cars.

    That really worried me because the $1500 rebate was to end 3/31 and I wasn't sure what it would be after that. I decided to call him back and do a dealer search with the options I wanted but I would be more flexible with the color. I ended up settling for Harvest Gold and now I'm thinking that color will not show dirt easily like the dark blue. So things turned out okay.

    So maybe you should bug the saleman somemore to find out if they even started on your car yet. By the way, they are transported via rail out of St. Thomas.
  • bthompbthomp Member Posts: 69
    They probably ship the cars via car carrier through St Lawrence Seaway down to a central distribution point like Charleston or Georgia. From there they use truck car carriers to distribute them. I'm wondering how the total quantity of CV/GM's built stack up to the most popular car models. Ble Oval rumor has it that the CV/GM platform will not get the 5.4 because they are all being used for the SUV's.
  • bdavis8bdavis8 Member Posts: 12
    I would like to know if anyone out there can give me any feedback pros and cons on the 3:27 rear end v's the 3:55. I currently own a 1999 CVLX with every option, but due to a drivers door problem ford is replacing my car with a new 2000. I was told by my dealer that the 2000 would have the 3:27, but everything I have read indicates that it will have a 3:55. I am happy with the performance of the 3:27. Is the 3:55 performance worth the loss of gas mileage? Also what kind of mileage should I expect?
  • kinleykinley Member Posts: 854
    the tire size would be helpful. Maybe the 3.27 has a smaller diameter tire & wheel than the 3.55. Some Ford products usually have a 215 X ?, but the "Touring" option has the 225 X ? with a higher ratio. IMO, not much difference. Rather than fit a replacement driver's door on your 99, the factory is replacing the entire automobile? What other facts are we missing here? Pray tell.
  • cswcsw Member Posts: 1
    If you have a 99 with all options, you have a 3:55 rear axle ratio. It is standard in 99 with the performance package.
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