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Dodge/Plymouth Neon

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Comments

  • acuraowneracuraowner Member Posts: 57
    I am currently in the market for a used car. My toyota truck is fine but I am done with it (cant stand the handling, ride, pickup, anything). I am basically looking for a 2dr, 5spd economy car.

    First I was looking at Civics, but I really cannot afford them.

    I did find a 1999 Dodge Neon Sport, 2 door, 5spd, DOHC with 52,000 miles. I ran a carfax which shows 1 owner and a clean title. Now I know of the headgasket and other various problems. But I was wondering would you other Neon owners recommend this car? I only plan on keeping it about 2 years or so until I can afford something alittle better.

    By the way, it is extremely hard to find any first generation 5spd Neons. Seems like most Neon owners opted for the archaic 3spd auto.

    Thanks for your help
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    Archaic? Depends under what conditions you plan to drive. Around town why do you need a four speed auto? Usually the fourth speed is an overdrive that will likely not get used. If you spend a lot of time in stop and go a two speed would be enough. Longer highway trips the extra gear is nice to cut engine revs and improve fuel mileage. The three speed has a good rep for being a dependable transaxle. Buying used I'd take the rep for dependability over a perceived need for another gear any day.
  • acuraowneracuraowner Member Posts: 57
    I dont plan on getting an automatic anyways. I cannot stand them as they are mostly pretty stupid and most dont understand when your foot is saying "I need to go real fast right now." I was just stating that its very very hard to find any 5spd Neon coupes (I have found all of 3 in the entire state of Florida and part of Georgia).

    From further research I have concluded that 1998 and 1999 models were much better as far as "refinement" goes compared to earlier models.

    71charger: Would you recommend the first gen Neon?
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 1st gen Neon if it was built with the new style head gasket or has one installed. Run it through Carfax though, just in case. As far as a 2000 needing a head gasket, they've made tens of thousands of these things. I'd be shocked if none had needed a head gasket. If it did I'm guessing it was more likely a poorly torqued head at the assembly plant. 5 spds are hard to find because the people that own them love them and they keep them. Try www.neon.enthusiasts.com and look through the classifieds. There is also www.neons.org
  • caesarslegioncaesarslegion Member Posts: 109
    while I was waiting at the hospital and I really like the new look. When I buy a car its till death do us part. In other words till it blows up. My spectra was hit by a truck and destroyed so now Im in the market for two cars. One will be my daily work car, the other for week ends. I once had a 89 plymouth horizon with the 2.2 litre motor and I think it had the 3 speed (it was an automatic) and I never had one problem with the transmission. It lasted till 100k and then my girlfriend pulled out in front of a taurus and my horizon lost. I do think the head gasket was starting to go because I had a massive oil leak behind the motor and it was making one heck of a mess. Other than that it was a tough little car and if the new neons are just as tough then maybe Ill have another look. I want a 2003 sxt stick shift with no a/c and I feel that I shouldn't have to pay more than $12k. I dont know if this is so unreasonable but I just want a basic car with out all the toys, just sparten. With the 7/70 deal.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Since AC comes with the SXT (along with power windows and locks, keyless entry), it's hard to get one of those stripped. If you want a basic Neon, get the base model. You should be able to score one of those for around $10-11K, if not cheaper.

    How did the Spectra hold up in the accident? Were you in it, or was it parked?
  • caesarslegioncaesarslegion Member Posts: 109
    I was parked at work and a truck driver and his 18 wheeler truck decided to enter a restricted area and backed his truck over and through my car. The truck driver then pushed it about maybe 30 feet or so into the corner of the building. I was not in the car at the time but needless to say it was ugly and my poor car even though a kia was a total loss and made me sick to my stomach at the time. Thats why Im out looking again. I like the look of the new neons and put them on my list of consideration. So far its between a neon, elantra, cavalier, maybe a accent. Anyone care to offer an opinion on which one they would buy over the other?
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I would definitely cut the Cavalier from your list. The Elantra is about the best on there right now actually. Great price, long warranty, nice room, pretty good roadhandling. I would check into one of those, especially if you can find an 02 leftover.

    The Neons are nice cars, but I just am leary about American cars myself because I have had pretty bad experiences. That's just me though.

    Good luck in whatever you get. :)
  • acuraowneracuraowner Member Posts: 57
    and am quite impressed. For the price of the car $3875 (99 Neon Sport Coupe, 5spd with 52k miles) I can deal with the flaws.

    The drivers side door lock has some issue where you have to hold the key in the unlock position while opening it (the used car dealership said they would go ahead and fix that). The passengers side window does not even come in contact with the window gasket and it sounds like the drive belts need to be replaced.

    The drive/ride were great. It felt nearly as powerful as the 1997 Integra GSR I used to drive, for interior noise it was again similar to the Integra.

    The gearbox/clutch were smooth. But I will say the accelerator pedal is quite odd in that its travel is very small and it feels like its already pushed halfway down when it really isnt.

    I went ahead and applied for financing (they wont have a reply until Monday). Once it is approved I am going to go down and have the car looked at by the Dodge dealership to see if there are any major problems (headgasket for example) that I should know of. If there are any minor problem I may still get the car as it is a real steal.
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    You're leary about American cars but have no qualms about Korean cars? Oh my! I'll leave it at that.
  • caesarslegioncaesarslegion Member Posts: 109
    I went to another dealer who has 2000 and 2001 going pretty cheap. I've seen the miles in the teens and still with the factory warranty. With the 2003 models out I think they will deal to get them off the lot.
  • rose332rose332 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 5 speed '99 Neon R/T. Besides changing the head gasket already I have a couple of other problems. When I come to a stop my RPM will go up to 2000rpm, sometimes less, then drop back down to around 900. One time it went all the way to 3500, held for a second then dropped. Or, if I'm down shifting the RPM holds for a second when I push in the clutch then drops. I've taken it to the dealer several times and they can never duplicate it. Any ideas?

    The second problem is that something keeps shorting out the #1 O2 sensor. I'm on my 3rd one in the past year. It will work for about 3 months then I get a check engine light and the code comes up for the sensor. The mechanic I use can't figure out the problem. The last time it happened he didn't change the sensor but he reset the codes so when it comes on again I could take it to the dealer. The light came on again about a month later and when I was on my way to the dealer the light went out. Bugger!
    Any ideas?
  • bravefeetfirstbravefeetfirst Member Posts: 1
    First, I just bought a 2003 Neon SXT. Dodge is really pushing these out the door. I went to the dealership looking for a deal on 2002's. They had the ridiculously low prices hanging in the windows (You know with all the fine print, rebates go to dealer...). I got the car for $12,680, which I feel is a good deal. It may not have the resale of a Toyota or Honda, but it didn't cost as much up front either.

    Second, there was an earlier post complaining about electric shocks getting in and out of the car. These are often caused by static buildup and can be quite strong. There is probably nothing wrong with the electrical system.

    The following link goes into great detail on static generation in the car.

    http://cartalk.cars.com/Mail/Letters/1999/05.29/1.html

    PS Also make sure you touch the car and ground yourself before you pump gas. That little static charge packs a lot of punch when mixed with a fresh tank of gas.
  • acuraowneracuraowner Member Posts: 57
    I went and picked up the 99 Neon I was looking at and am quite happy with the purchase. Its a 99 Dodge Neon Highline Coupe, DOHC, 5spd with 52,482 miles. I got it for $4492 after TTL.

    I am very happy with the car. The build quality is outstanding, as far as NVH it is much better then the 2000 Honda Civic EX Coupe I test drove.

    The drivetrain is very moody though. It starts real rough compared to other fuel injected vehicles I have driven. Also it does suffer from the hesitation/stumbling feature which comes standard on all 1995 to current Neons. It seems to be a huge problem according a Neon forum on the internet.

    Other then that its a great car. The frameless windows seal pretty good (the drivers window did get sucked away from the seal when I was driving in the draft of a 18 wheeler), there are absolutely no squeaks or rattles, the handling is outstanding and it can move.

    I did get the most recent headgasket design too. Apparently the most recent headgasket was introduced in Nov. 98, my car was built in Jan. 99.

    This car is way too much fun, it is actually more fun to drive my Neon then my Integra. Its more mature, but still just as fun.
  • srockrsrockr Member Posts: 79
    I used to own a 95 Neon and then dummy me traded it in for a 97 Breeze. The Neon had it's share of oil leaks while I had it. Didn't know it was a problem then with so many. The Breeze did ok for a while then started to develop oil leaks as well as loss of power, etc. I just had the head gasket replaced as well as the timing belt and t.b. tensioner. This was all just done not more than a month ago. Guess what it is leaking oil again. I only have 59k miles on the car. I am going to go back to dealership AGAIN and hopefully get it fixed AGAIN and then get rid of this car. Never more will I drive or buy any Chrysler or Plymouth products. Hope everyone else has good luck.
  • acuraowneracuraowner Member Posts: 57
    Your head gasket should have been replaced with the new MLS head gasket if it was done a month ago (which is apparently supposed to be a permanent fix).

    My 99 Neon has 53k miles and there are no oil leaks to speak of. It also has the MLS headgasket so I am not really that worried about it springing any leaks anytime soon.
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    It won't be permanent if they took any short cuts in the job. Did they resurface the head? If not the whole job was a waste of time. They don't want to take the time to remove the manifolds and run it to the machine shop then reassemble the manifolds. They have a bad habit of "eyeballing" the gasket surface and declaring it good enough. I was the victim of that myself last year. I did the second head gasket myself to make sure it was done correctly. I paid to have it done the first time as I didn't feel I had time to do it myself. That was for a 2.2 Turbo II. Those heads are heavy to lift when the manifolds and turbo are still attached.
  • 29174602917460 Member Posts: 2
    I got a good deal on the Neon when I bought it new but wish I hadn't. Ran great for 38,000 miles. When the warranty ran out the head gasket went with it! Common problem with Neons and then at 43,000 miles the air conditioner went out. $1000+ for each repair. I wrote to Chrysler about it with so few miles on the car and they wrote back saying they have made great progress in quality. I would hate to have an older Chrysler car if that is true.
  • boredbored Member Posts: 300
    $1,000 for a Head Gasket?!?!?!? Is this true? Also, what's a Valve Cover Gasket?
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    The valve cover should, on overhead cam engines, be more properly called the cam cover. It's the top-most stamped steel or plastic cover on the engine itself. On mine it says 16 valve or something like that on it. V engines (V6, V8, etc) have two valve covers. The valves go all the way through the cylinder head. The valve cover covers (as the name implies) the stem ends of the valves along with the springs, retainers, keepers, rocker arms. And on many engines the camshaft or camshafts. I believe Ferrari refers to the part as a cam cover and one or two manufacturers refer to it as a rocker cover. Go with valve cover and the guy at the parts store will know what you're talking about when you go to buy a gasket.
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    been gettin some good press.....what d'yall think?
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I still have images of the old 2.2 turbos from Chrysler. I am sure they are alot better though.

    The SR-T seems like a real butt-kicker, and with a low price to boot.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I had one of those go in a car I had about 5 years ago. It only cost like $40 to replace.
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    since they were getting as much as 224hp out of the 2.2 ten years ago why aren't they squeezing more out of the 2.0 in the SRT? I guess they want to leave some room at the top for follow on model year(s). 2.2s were very durable engines if cared for. Most people beat on them. I know a guy with 230,000 miles on his Daytona with the original headgasket and turbo. Synthetic oil, regular changes, largest oil filter that will fit and let the turbo spin down before switching off the ignition. Another friend recently spent a small fortune replacing the turbo in his Saab (again). I asked him if he let it spin down everytime before switching the key off. No one had ever mentioned that to him. Not even his mechanic after replacing one the first time.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Was there anything in the owner's manual of these cars about the spinning down procedure? I have a turbo (Jetta 1.8T), and let it spin down even though the owner's manual says nothing about it. I have heard my engine cooling fan run as well when the car is turned off, so it may not be necessary. I wanna make the turbo last as long as possible though.

    Also, the 2.0 is a little smaller than the 2.2, so maybe there isn't a way to get more power without increasing the size of the motor. I remember the Shelby Z models had the 224hp 2.2 engines in them back in '92 or so.
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    You know what? I don't know. I had an 87 Shelby Lancer and an 87 Daytona Pacifica and couldn't tell you if it said anything in the owner's manual about that or not. It's critical if you run conventional oil. It keeps the oil flowing through the bearings until the turbine spins down and helps to keep it from coking in there. I don't imagine it's as important if you're running synthetic but it's still good practice. Your cooling fan isn't doing squat for the turbo. Engines usually spike in temp shortly AFTER you shut them off. Cooling fans that run on are just dealing with this.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I always let the car run for 30-90 seconds after turning it off, just to be safe.
  • beanboybeanboy Member Posts: 442
    Sports a 2.4L motor. And 215HP is way underrated. If it comes from the factory as fast as the mags are getting them to run, more like 250HP. One of the mags got 220+HP at the wheels. Talking under 14 second 1/4 mile times with good traction, at 100+ mph. 350Z territory.

    I know the WRX is designed to keep coolant flowing after the car is turned off, Subaru techs specifically mention that no turbo cooldown is needed. Certainly doesn't hurt on it or any other turbo car.

    -B
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    Wouldn't be the first time a Dodge came with an engine underrated on hp from the factory. 30 yrs or so ago 300hp seemed to be the magic number for kicking in insurance surcharges. Curious how many fast cars seemed to come with factory ratings around 290. 340 six barrel cars come to mind.
  • tay543tay543 Member Posts: 1
    Sport Compact Car measured the SRT-4 to have 223 horsepower and 250 ft.-lb. torque AT THE WHEELS. C&D tested it as 0-60 in 5.6 seconds and 14.2 seconds in the quarter mile (they stated they got 14.1 in one run, but 14.2 was more consistant). This means that the SRT-4 in a tenth of a second behind the 350Z in the quarter mile, and it's about 10 grand less, what's better than that???
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    http://www.moparts.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/052144.html


    Many knuckledraggers on there that think anything less than a V8 isn't worth mentioning. All I know is the slowest time I've seen listed for the SRT is faster than the fastest my big block 71 has ever run.

  • yositoyosito Member Posts: 55
    My son has a 2001 R/T since last june with just 7000 miles on it, and the car suddenly began having problems.
    You could drive the car and suddenly it was dead.
    Yes no energy at all, after a couple of minutes the energy was back and several more times.
    It visited the dealer SEVERAL times and the dealer changed the battery three times, I have to tell you that while performing several tests to the battery no faulty codes were observed, but since lately Chrysler is having trouble with batteries we decided to change it, but it wasn't the solution.
    Well chrysler ASKED US FOR MORE TIME to repair the vehicle, (The car was back at the dealer since july, so until last week they kept asking us FOR MORE TIME!!!).
    Well they finally decided to change the MAIN FUSE BOX with all the harness, they also replaced the starter and baterry harness plus the PCM, now the car is running with no problems, BUT I had to take it to ANOTHER DEALER, so they would place all the harnesses where they should be, put all the screws and clips, etc..etc... of which many were missing.
    I hope the car will NOW work fine, because my son drives it a lot on the highway, and when it dies there is no power steering or brakes, and no energy at all!!
    We know now this is not the first Neon with such a problem, but Chrysler service dept. Plus customer relations dept. at Chrysler STINK!!
  • mackie5mackie5 Member Posts: 1
    I am glad I have found a place to vent.
    I own a 96 Plymouth Neon and it has about 80,000 miles on it. Bought it brand new and we have had nothing but problems. Thank goodness we got an extended warranty.
    We have had the head gasket replaced about 5 times, the A/C replaced, the radio replaced, the front suspension replaced and the EGR replace a handfull of times. Only to mention a few things.
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    Wow. What a piece you seem to have. Having done my share of headgaskets it's my opinion if it's recurring the repair isn't being done correctly. I firmly believe that a replacement headgasket (the proper MLS style) when installed properly with the head resurfaced and the top of the block cleaned should last virtually forever.

    A/C from 94 to 96 or so was problematic in many cars as it was early in the learning curve in the shift from R12 for the manufacturers.

    EGR a number of times? Sounds to me as if there is a root cause somewhere else that just isn't getting found causing the EGR to fail.

    80000 miles and one front suspension isn't bad really. Unless it had to be replaced very early on. Define front suspension. Struts? Struts and ball joints? Struts, ball joints, and tie rod ends? The struts definitely should have worn out. Ball joints and tie rod ends are more dependent on how it gets used. A lot of pot holes and curb smacking will wear them out faster than long trips on a fairly smooth interstate.
  • sturclasturcla Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Neon Sport with manual trans, and 150 hp engine. No major repairs (head gasket) problems after 5 years and 54,000 miles. Really love this car but have to decide to keep or get new one since my lease end's in two months.

    You're right about manual transmission in the R/T and Sport editions in 97/98, since most of cars were built with the crappy auto trans. that didn't take advantage of the power.

    I only paid $12,000 in April 98 for my sport coupe. The 2003 edition of the same car doesn't have the coupe (only sedan), no DOHC, weighs 400 lbs. more, and cost's $18,000+

    The residual value on my lease is $ 4,800 but current trade-in value is about $ 3,500. If I turn the car in at end of lease, the lease company eat's the difference. Naturally, they are offering me special deals to buy the car. I love it so much that I may take their best offer.
  • sturclasturcla Member Posts: 3
    The sport edition (98/99) of the Neon with DOHC engine, and 150 hp is a much better car with the manual transmission, since the auto trans doesn't take maximum advantage of the engine's power.

    If a buyer didn't care about performance, s(he) should have bought the standard edition which cost several hundred bucks less than the sport way back in 1998.

    I prefer manual's, it's a guy thing (love to play with sticks) :-)
  • garymkrieggarymkrieg Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1995 Dodge Neon Brilliant Blue Pearl Metallic in color. At the beginning of 2002 a small spot on the roof began to peel. Now I have several spots. After researching the problem I discovered that this is a known problem. I am in the process of taking Daimler Chrysler to small claims court for a new paint job. What I would like from readers of this town hall forum is an email from any readers that are experiencing paint problems. Please identify your name, make, model, year, color and a description of the peeling problem you are having. My email address is garymkrieg@yahoo.com

    Thanks for your help.
  • nikkifinnnikkifinn Member Posts: 2
    Dear Yosito- I have the same problem w/ my car! I have taken it to be fixed 3 mo. ago and It started all over again this week. Dealer is saying there are no fault codes, and has updated the computer in the car and the idle control. Has replacing the main fuse box fixed your problem? My warranty is running out so I have to act fast!
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Check out www.lemonaidcars.com - they have some cases there about your problem. Good luck!
  • gtahobegtahobe Member Posts: 42
    I have a strange situation with my 95 Dodge Neon Highline SOHC purchased new in December 94. It was cool being one of the Neon Pioneers! Anyway, when starting out cold, the atx shifts fairly well and timelty from 1 to 2, or maybe just a touch late. Then it basically refuse to shift from 2 to 3. I'll easily be doing 3250+ rpm at about 45mph without a hint of it wanting to shift. This happens the same while under light, moderate, or heavy acceleration. Don't despare, eventually it does shift, after about 30 seconds of high reving. When it does decide to start shifting, it seems to hang out in neutral for about 4-6 seconds before engaging. This really bothers me. Any suggestions of what I can do to further diagnose this problem or what potential repairs might be? I have had the atx fluid changed twice, once at about 62,000m, and about a month or two ago at 96,000m. Currently 97,200m.

    If you thought you had this figured out, let me add something else. After the car has been driven just a few minutes with everything heated up, all atx shifts occure promptly and quickly. You'd never know that there was any problem at all. This has me confused. My wife is afraid to drive the car for fear that the atx will die and leave her stranded (without a cell phone).

    Thanks in advance for you input from a new member to the board.

    G.
  • bruticusbruticus Member Posts: 229
    Howdy. Over this past weekend (terrible weather here in the northeast) my left-hand lowbeam quit working (I know it was working Friday night, but Sunday when I pulled into my parking spot at home I noticed it wasn't shining) Highbeam works though.

    What's the replacement procedure for this? Is it just a bulb or the entire unit? How do I go about making certain the new light, once installed, is aimed correctly?

    I should be able to get to the car-parts store this week, but not Monday as the whole state's likely to be shut down (16-22 inches of snow expected, so it'll be a DVD day!)

    Thanks

    DjB
  • billz99yukonbillz99yukon Member Posts: 2
    Hello!

    My aunt has a 97 neon and within the past two months the car has randomly not started. They'll tow it in, tinker with it, send it back and ultimatley it will do the same thing all over again.

    The last time it was in the shop they replaced the computer. Today the car didn't start again... until my aunt put the auto. tranny in neutral. Then it started.

    Now correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't this sound like the transmission safety switch? I recommended to her next time it won't start wiggle the shifter. If it still doesn't start try neutral again. If it does it must be the safety switch.

    Any other ideas on what it could be? Thanks.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    It's just the bulb. You should be able to get it from any auto parts store for a fairly reasonable price.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Anyone have problems with the auto tranny in their Neon? In the past week, I know 2 people whose transmissions have blown. One has a 1996 Neon, and the other a 2000 model, both the 3-speed auto.
  • gtahobegtahobe Member Posts: 42
    See also my post #1052 for a full description of my problem.

    I just got the car back from the shop, and they inform me that the "Direct Clutch Lip Seal" was the culprit, and would cost about 900-1100 for him to rebuild. The vehicle currently runs ok, it just takes awhile to shift into third when cold. After driving a few miles, all additional shifts seem to be just fine.

    My question is this:
    The Edmunds Private Party value on this 95 Highline w/97K, dark green, under rough condition (bad tranny) is $1571. Same car under Average condition is $1805. Same car under Clean condition is $2151 (not attainable due to a few kisses and some rust on the hood).

    Can anybody tell me why I should fix this vehicle and keep driving it?

    I'm still considering my options, but as this is my wife's car and we have a 2yr old, I'm beginning to think about buying a 2 year old sedan (probably a size larger than the neon), then I'll drive the neon in its current condition until it either gives out completely, or until I can sell it for at least $600(1805 average condition - 1100 estimate tranny repairs - 100 other repairs = 605).

    Currently I drive a 93 Dodge Grand Voyager with 152K. So while I'm driving the neon for a few months or so, I can extend the life of the Voyager a bit more before it needs replaced too.
  • 71charger71charger Member Posts: 116
    Have you considered having a Jasper installed? Or, possibly, a Mopar remanufactured? You may do well to shop around and just have a reman installed.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Actually, the co-worker who blew her tranny (the one with the 96 w/74K) said this is her second tranny. The first was a rebuilt one, and it just blew.
  • rundariusrundarius Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 dodge neon 90,000mi I'm having a problem with the speedometer. When it's rainy or humid or when i hit a large bump my speedometer gets stuck...and stops working. My mechanic said there's not much that he can do about it? Any suggestions?

    Also when driving at speeds of 65mph on highways...my neon seems to fish tail. Is this normal the tires are fairly new and in good condition.

    third, when driving in recent snow it seems like my front right brake would lock up...I took it in but they couldn't find anything.

    um..I've been having problems with my neon stalling...for example driving down a road going 40-45mph steady pressure on the gas I try to pass someone on the left. The car goes forward...and then I feel like the tranny or something is slipping and bang! the car shuts off....has happened on the highway also. any suggestions?
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    Fishtailing is caused by alignment issue. You need to get 4 wheel alignment service.
    What you mean by "the car shuts off", power goes off or you feel that way? If power goes off literally, take it to qualified dealer asap. If you feel car is starving for power then get your fuel filter changed.
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    Just had a look at a neighbors neon with nothing coming out of altenator. No voltage and current clamp meter shows nil as well.

    Wire from bat. to alt. has good resistance. Car was dripping wet from melting slush so i quit until i could do some more research. Besides, too cold to be on a creeper today.

    Since the alternator looks like it was the first thing put into the car(buried pretty deep), I was wondering if it came out from the side after the pass. tire and plastic shield was removed. Anyone ever taken one out?

    Also, I called one after market shop for a price check and was told '95 was to new for a rebuilt. Yeh right.

    Does anyone know where the regulator is? My old '91 Die-nasty had its built into the ECM. Is this the case with the neon?

    Is there any ongoing problems with this cars alternator that has already been discussed? Or has any body else had a similar issue?

    Appreciate any ones input or expertise on this neon.

    Thanks

    moonshadow
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