Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008

shank6 · July 2001

Take a SCROLL with me to posts 748, 924, 975, and 992. These will give you my experiences with my 99 Taurus SE. Your problems sound almost identical to mine. I believe in Ford products and am going to buy a Mercury Sable LS Premium around September / October.

We own a 2000 and I can't say enough good about it. You bought the Taurus from the same sales rep I did....Alfred E. Neumann!!

stnel · July 2001

While car shopping, I seriously considered buying a Taurus and did a lot of posting on this site while car shopping. I wound up buying a GM but think it's six to one, half a dozen to the other as to which will be the better car. Time will tell. I tend to agree with Fdthird that it's all a crap shoot.

I hope the Taurus people don't start bashing GM owners because of what one person said. I really enjoyed the postings I had on the Taurus forum.

And Consumer Reports gives the Taurus a "recommended" rating as well as the GM cars mentioned.

On the side, has anyone seen the new Thunderbird. I thought I saw on a commercial that a couple of local Ford dealerships had one or two on display. I walked in on the end of the commercial so not quite sure if I heard it correct. I'm going to try to get around to going to the dealerships to see if one's on display. I'm dying to see what they look like.

teo · July 2001

The new Thunderbird is basically a two-door version of the Lincoln LS. They share the same exact interior and powertrain components, except the body shell. A very nice car in all and all. Very expensive too....$40K for a blvd cruiser.

taurus2001 · July 2001

I am thinking of getting a new 2001 Taurus LX, 3.0L Vulcan, not Flexible Fuel, but I noticed a noise in the engine, especially when you pop the hood. I also hear it standing near the car and sometimes even while in the car. I guess you would describe it as a clicking sound. It sure wasn't a nice purr. Wil it go away or is this just typical of Taurus? Will it get worse 2-3 years later?

davids10 · July 2001

The clicking sound you heard is probably the fuel injectors opening and closing very fast. If so, it is normal.

iusecad · July 2001

I'm trying to save, but it's very hard...

the pinging when you turn off your motor is probably just the exhaust pipes cooling off.

marsha7 · July 2001

for my 2000 Sable...whenever I drive over a small to moderate bump, slowly, like in a parking lot, I get a metallic clunk out of the rear of the car...I thought the exhaust might be loose, put the car on a lift, but exhaust appeared tight...checked the other hanging items, everything looked OK...my spare tire and jack are screwed in tight...it only happens when I have three people in the car, 2 in front and one in rear...since everything "appears" to be tight, but I am obviously overlooking something that clunks, does anyone have any idea what I should check?...also, sometimes, after the clunk, I hear something vibrating, more like reverberating...I know something needs to be moved or tightened, but I cannot figure out what...thanks

minnesotaart · July 2001

When I have had that before, it was because the rear shocks needed their mounting bolts tightened.

stnel · July 2001

If the pinging is from the exhaust pipe, would the pinging be from just one side. The pinging I'm having is all over the car on both sides. I only have one exhaust pipe. I wish I could have afforded a more expensive trim with dual exhaust pipes but I spent a little more than I could afford as it was.

I'm not mechanically inclined so would the exhaust pipe cover the same area under the car whether you have one outlet or two.

Good luck on saving money. It hard to do!

iusecad · July 2001

is it louder at the front of your car than at the back? If it is I'm guessing it's the exhaust manifolds cooling off. (Not so much the tail pipe like I might have implied.)

I'm not mechanically inclined either, but I've heard many vehicles make that sound when they're shut off... My dad's V10 does...

So how's the new car doing?

sosborne301 · July 2001

I'm moving into an urban area and thought a nice, used station wagon would suit my needs. I was very pleased when I say the prices of the used 2000 Taurus wagons. The depreciation is amazing. I do have to drive to the suburbs though and need a dependable car. Does the Taurus depreciate wildly because it is a costly car to run?

gudanov · July 2001

How much a Taurus will cost you to keep running is subject to wildly different opinions. During the early 90s there was both the AXOD transmissions and 3.8L engine with the head gasket problems. The 3.8L six hasn't been offered since 96 and there is a different transmission (or at least different enough for a new designation). Even though the car changed in 96, the reputation of those earlier years has painted a bad picture. I wouldn't expect the Taurus to take abuse like a Toyota, but a well-maintained one will probably hold up fine. There are lemons out there though. My '99 hasn't given me any trouble, but it only has 38K (bought used with 16K) so it's too early to judge.

The other factor is that there are just a lot of late-model Tauruses (Tauri?) out there. They are used by Hertz (Ford owned I think) and other rental agencies so there is a glut of low-mileage used ones that doesn't exist for import cars.

sosborne301 · July 2001

I just can't image anyone ever wanting to buy a new one. I priced the 2001 wagons and they run about $23,000 here in the DC area. A one year old model -- $12,000- $14,000. Those that are buying these Tauri new are losing their shirts.

bajabill · July 2001

for a sedan, se trim, about 16500, ses trim, about 18500 (remember these are 2001 models soon to be a year old.)

I just bought a 2000 ses for 12800 (soon to be 2 years old, but 6000 bucks is a big difference)

sosborne301 · July 2001

I was referring to Wagon pricing. Now it only comes in SES....You are forced to buy leather, etc. No wonder wagon sales have dropped. You can buy a 2000 wagon for between $12,000 and $14,000 without all of the fancy options. It's one year old and used, but a whole lot cheaper...by over $9,000. How many Kansas farmers, Maine fisherman, and school teachers need leather, etc? I know that many want a wagon though and will look elsewhere.

bajabill · July 2001

I did not know the wagons were only the upper trims. In the sedans, the ses is a good compromise and I would be leary of the sel and paying for the options. Regardless, I still agree completely, these are a great value used, but be very carefull if buying new, especially if you are prone to changing cars quickly.

sosborne301 · July 2001

Edmunds says the wagon comes in only SE...but strangely, when I went to the dealer, they said that all wagons now come loaded with leather...about $23,000.

teo · July 2001

Depreciate like bricks. The tainted reliability history of past model generations, the prospect of ever increasing repair expenses as the car ages, the rebates/incentives and the heavy sales to the Fleet market (The used car market is flooded with Taurus cars)make these cars a bad idea to buy new and a great bargain used.

Check out the Intellichoice rating given to the Taurus:

www.intellichoice.com

taurus2001 · July 2001

I need to correct my earlier question#1054 . On the new 2001 Taurus LX when I start the engine is when I hear the noise in the engine- It's not a clicking noise- It's a tinny noise and just when you start the car. It sure is not a powerful engine noise.I wonder if it is tinny now as a new car, what will it sound like 3-4 years from now? What is it due to?

stnel · July 2001

It could be the exhaust manifolds. If this is common in cars and not indicative of a problem, then I won't worry about it. It's a little annoying when I get out of the car but fortunately I'm walking away from the car so I don't have to listen to it for very long.

I'm enjoying the new car. It's nice to have a 6 cylinder for a change.

janes4 · July 2001

Is $3,000 too much to pay for a 1993 Ford Taurus? It is GL, 4 dr. sedan, with 75,000. We have had Taurus' in the past and have had transmission problems with both of them. My son is looking at this privately owned car and I am worried that he might be buying a big headache for too much money. Any Advise and Information on this year and model car would be *greatly* appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jane

snowman · July 2001

I am in the market for a car. This time I will definetely buy domestic. I spotted 2000 Taurus for $12.5K with 22K miles. However I am very reluctant after I have read all transmission problems. Is there any 2000 owner out there that can share his/her experience with us.
Many thanks

s852 · July 2001

I have heard of stories of transmission problems with Tauruses, but I would hope not many 2000 model owners are having problems yet. If there is still a problem, it might take a few years to show up. I know someone who had a 1997 Taurus that started having problems with the transmission earlier this year.
Make sure the owner has original copies of all the maintenance records and consider an extended warranty.

milous · July 2001

Took '92 Taurus (52k miles) to dealer recently as one day it all of a sudden would not start (cranked ok & was getting fuel). They kept it for 5 days (!!) and here is what they came up with:
1. Replaced MAF sensor (said it was corroded and damaged) $161.67 for remanufactured part.

2. Replaced engine electric coolant control, $40.25 (now this I happen to have replaced myself a couple months ago for a different reason)

3. Wiring kit asy jumper $18.20

4. Labor $287.00

5. Environmental & supply charge $29.00 (!!!! what a rip this is, unbelievable!)

Total came to almost $600 with tax, and this was after they reduced it $50 after I compained when I picked the car up.

The clerk at the counter mentioned something about a $75 core credit (probably for MAF sensor) but this was not noted on the bill or credited to me - I assume they will keep this money when they get it.

Seems like they just started changing parts and charged me for their trial and error diagnostics.

I asked for my old parts but they could not produce them. Did not persue that yet, was going to go back Monday and talk to manager.

Did I get screwed here? I am not even sure that the problem is absolutely solved, I worry that I will get stuck somewhere when/if it decides not to start again...

lteturner · July 2001

I have a 2000 ford taurus that I purchased in November 1999 and it is in the shop for transmission work. The mechanic tells me the gear shift is broken and I have to pay $1500 to fix it because I have 36125 (115 miles over my warranty)...how convenient, huh? So needless to say I am not happy with this car and will be trading it in SOON...

minnesotaart · July 2001

I would DEFINITELY bring this matter to the attention of the Ford Zone Manager. There is NO WAY that you should have to pay for that repair! Take 'em to small claims court if you have to, but you should not have to pay for that.

rkj08_2000 · July 2001

Have a 94 Taurus w/ 112K, AC stopped working, was diagnosed with a leak somewhere under the dash, quote to fix is 1200, does this sound right? Anyone else have the same problem?

shark110 · July 2001

JUST STARTED LOOKING AT THE NEW 2001 TAURUS--SUNROOFS ARE NO LONGER A CHARGEABLE OPTION? IS THIS FOR THE MIDWEST ONLY?

vince4 · July 2001

I have the same thing in my 2000 SE. Only happens with people in the back. I haven't gotten under there and checked anything yet because it isn't very loud or frequent. If you find anything please let us know.

vince4 · July 2001

$1200 is awfully high for a leak repair, evacuation, and recharge unless some major part needs replacement. As a shot in the dark, I'd say $300-400 would be more like it. Maybe they are quoting the price to switch the system over to the new refrigerant (if it isn't already???).

If you don't understand all the mechanical details, I'd suggest you take it to one or two other places to get a quote.

marsha7 · July 2001

I will try and get it into the dealer in the next week or so, and will post results...if they find it...if they don't, I will not be a happy camper..

tomcat630 · July 2001

Taurus resale value is low mainly because of "the law of supply and demand". There are lots of fleet sales and when they are resold, the prices drop since there are so many for sale. Also, most brand new Tauruses are sold at way below sticker, which shows up on the future value of the cars.

More Toyota Camrys have entered the fleet market and it has affected the resale, also.

shark110 · July 2001

Just picked up my new 2001 SES----they are dealing on these cars if anyone is considering a purchase--with moonroof, mach system and cd changer, floor mats, floor shifter, heated mirrors, and traction control--$20,200 with destination included----on base v6 engine, sunroof is a no charge option---if you go with 24v engine you must pay for sunroof if you want one.

427435 · July 2001

Just acquired a 96 Sable with 24,000 miles. On several occasions (hot days driving 70 mph into a slight headwind), a very annoying howl develops from somewhere on the passenger side. I suspect a sealing problem with either the windshield or door. Anyone got any experience with this?

ohio7 · July 2001

sosborne301 - re: reasons to buy a new Taurus

1. That wonderful new car smell!!
2. Lack of other noxious smells especially smoke!
3. Having the full warrenty and knowing what has been done to the car if it needs anything.
4. NOT worrying about resale if you plan on keeping it until death.
5. Having a car with no door/fender dings.
6. Not having to guess how well the previous owner took care of it.
7. Etc, etc.

snowman - re: 2000 SEL troubles

I now have 7000 miles on my 2000 SEL and have zero complaints or problems. I LOVE the 24 valve Duratec engine with it's 200hp! Around Washington, DC one needs the omph to merge quickly onto the interstate or that dreadful Beltway (495). I drive in the "D" mode rather than the "OD" mode when I'm not on the interstate.

mrl11777 · July 2001

Read your owner's manual and you will see that you should leave it in OD and let the trans do what it is designed to do. Why do so many people out there think that they know better?

snowman · July 2001

I picked up a 2000 SE on last Saturday w/21K on it. It is a light blue. It appears to be very clean car. Dealer replaced the rear breaks too. This is my first Ford. I only owned Hondas and Toyotas. We recently bought a Dodge. We are very happy with it. Let see what will happen with this car.
In my first chance, I will get all the fluids replaced along with the tires. I will get rid of Firestone tires and buy something much better. I am thinking Yokohoma Touring or Goodyear Aquatred 3, both tires have very good ratings from customers according to tirerack.com
Dealership offered me an extended warranty by Easycare. They said this company is part of Ford. Which is true, I verified it. However the blank contract they gave me to look at it says, if uncovered part cause damage on covered part then this won't be covered by the warranty. That is very irritating. I did not purchase it yet. I am still searching. I wonder what is written on Ford's ESP, any input from ESP owners??
Thanks

stevied070 · July 2001

I've just had my dealer perform two recalls on my 2000 SEL. One was the high mount brake light wiring in my spoiler and the other was on the adjustable pedals.
Also, I read that others have experienced yellow check engine light around 10-15k, I'm at 13,000 and mine came on. Dealer replaced back flow valve and interestingly, the RPMs don't dip and surge as much when I take my foot off of the accelerator. This was beginning to get annoying. Apart from this, I'm celebrating my one year anniversary with the car trouble free.
Although the true power of the DOHC is out stretching the long legged transmission on the open road, with the engine beginning to loose its new-car stiffness I find that the car is offering slightly more low end torque. It's still not fabulous on takeoffs, but it's more than I expected to have!

wijoco · July 2001

Driving around in "D" will cook your transmission every year!!! Don't do it! By locking out 4th, you are forcing the car to operate in third full-time, which it was not designed to do. The converter never locks up in third, and the transmission fluid superheats, smoking your planetary bearings, seals, bands, etc. The ONLY time your should drop into "D" or lower is while descending a steep hill (hauling a family and trailer in the mountains, for example), and you need engine braking to avoid smoking the brakes. Even then, it should be returned to OD immediately after the descent. Anyone who has told you it's OK to scoot around in "D" is either foolish or a devious transmission technician looking to create some new business!.

maryanns · July 2001

I am looking to buy a used 1996 Ford Taurus. I have heard about transmission problems with these cars but I really have no idea about them. I am looking to go to a dealer for them. I have test drove two already. Any suggestions or comments on how these cars are would be greatly appreciated. I am having diffuculty finding out information. Thankyou

glinda49 · July 2001

My parents, both in their 70's are in the market for a mid-sized sedan. After reading the reviews here at the Edmunds site, one of the cars they are
interested in is the 2000 Taurus. I am very concerned about reliability for them and Ford has a very checkered past when it comes to that. Does anyone have any advice to offer about the Taurus. I know every vehicle has its share of good and bad but I want my parents to feel safe and I definitely don't want to worry about the car not performing well for them. Their budget dictates that they cannot spend over $15,000 and I have read that the Taurus is a lot of car for the money. Any insight from you Ford owners would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

ohio7 · July 2001

Re: driving in "D"

No, "wijoco" I don't think that I know more than the manual concerning this subject. (See below)

To "mrl11777" - Thank you very much for the very detailed explanation of what happens to my transmission when driving in "D". (Do you work on cars for a living?) I've been doing this since I read it in an earlier posting from last winter some time (From someone like yourself, who I THOUGHT might know more than I.)

A number of people were complaining that the car would not coast to a stop after release of the gas pedal. They had to use excessive force to stop the car. I, too, was experiencing the same thing. When I tried his suggestion, the problem went away. I posted this result earlier but no one contradicted me or the original poster. (Where were you then when I needed you?)

I DO know something about transmissions since my dad retired from Ford performing inspections on large transmissions of years ago. He taught me pretty well. I only drove in "D" under 35 mph and would use "OD" when going higher as I stated in my post.

Since I drive only 6 miles a day under 35mph I'm hoping that I've done no serious harm these past 6-7 months. I guess time will tell.

Anyone else out there that works/makes transmissions for a living please set us straight.

To glinda49: Regarding the 2000 Taurus for your parents. Your best bet is to go to the beginning of this posting and read all of the comments from people like me and take notes. You can't do better than that. No critic is better than an owner.

bajabill · July 2001

just bought 2000 ses, 26000 miles (vortec engine, not the better duratek engine)

certified used from Lincoln dealer, 10,000 miles left on original warranty,
cert used warnty- 75,000 drive train, primary engine, transmission parts, roadside assistance, towing, battery recharge etc.

$12,800 for a roomy, very nice riding, and safe car with a warranty long enough to tell if it is a lemon or not.

ndfar · July 2001

I noticed in the owners manual that they recommend oil change at 5000 miles but when you get it done at a shop they always say 3000 miles or 3 months. The manual says that change rate is for excessive idling as a police or taxi and for pulling trailers. What is everyone going by?
Also is the extended warranty a good investment? I bought a 1999 and 2000 Taurus last March and was wondering if it might be a needed thing to have or a waste of money.

s852 · July 2001

5000 miles should be plenty for a 1999-2000 Taurus and it keeps the oil change schedule in synch with tire rotations so it's much more convenient.
Of course the oil change service places want you to bring the car in to change oil as often as possible. That is their business.
An extended warranty might not be a bad idea if you can get a good deal on one. They are usually way overpriced.

brucelinc · July 2001

I do not work on cars for a living anymore but I have put well over 100,000 miles each on 3 Taurus' since 1990 as company cars. I currently have a 2001 model. Never had a transmission problem with any of them. And, yes, human beings do know more than transmissions. We have the capability to anticipate and see traffic patterns, hilly terrain, and traffic signals.

I have always locked out overdrive when driving in situations that would otherwise make the tranmission constantly shift in and out of overdrive and/or continually lock and unlock the converter. The manual even recommends that.

marsha7 · July 2001

that I would post my results, if anyone was interested...I had a metallic vibration that reverberated when I went over a bump on my 2000 Sable LS...the technician and I test drove the car, and for awhile no bump would re-create the noise, and I began to feel stupid...finally, went over a bump and there it was...he diagnosed the problem as worn out rear struts...he changed both rear struts and the problem is 90% gone...cannot figure out about the other 10%, but I must compliment the dealer's service department on their helpfulness and eagerness to please...it has been a pleasant experience, compared to other dealerships I have "endured" in my life...

wijoco · August 2001

<<No, "wijoco" I don't think that I know more than the manual
concerning this subject.>>

Ohio7 I never said that! But, most people who say "Yeah I drive around in "D" because I like the power/fuel economy/less shifting/etc." end up forgetting to shift back into "OD" when they approach 40-45 mph. And after a year or two of abuse, they find the transmission's life shortened. Now, as you say, brucelinc, if you drive for long stretches at 35 or less (commute through the city, for example), then you'll do no damage. That's the exception to the rule, though, for most people, and it's sooooo easy to ignore that little "O/D" light on the dash and forget to re-engage OD at cruising speeds. Heck, if you can handle it, go for it. I like to err on the side of caution myself.

brucelinc · August 2001

Good point, wijoco, it would be easy to forget. I am a "gearhead" and am pretty aware of what is going on with my cars, but I have forgotten to shift back to OD myself on a couple of occasions.

Now, I am not arguing here and maybe this is the wrong forum for this discussion, but I am really curious about something. Why is driving in "D" harmful to the transmission? Automatic overdrive and lock-up converters weren't even used 15-20 years ago. How is driving in "D" with a modern automatic any more harmful than driving in "D" with, say, a '75 Ford that had no overdrive or lock-up converter? Thanks.

fdthird · August 2001

as there is no longer a button and an associated light when switching out of OD. on our 2001 SEL, it is now a gear detent.

Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles