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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    hersbird says: I still stand by that a car without the interlock is not and unsafe product, but that it is an unsafe practice to leave a car idle with out somebody in the drivers seat. Maybe they should put an interlock in that senses the driver's weight in the seat and shuts off the motor when they try to leave
    May not be as dumb as it sounds. They already did that with gas lawnmowers so to speak. When you let go of the handles it either quits or goes into a neutral so the blade quits spinning to say the hands of the stupid jerks who want to put there hands in harms way. If it wasn't for shift interlocks you wouldn't be far off.
  • monaco2monaco2 Member Posts: 7
    DaimlerChrysler finally installed the Brake Shift Interlock because they were getting sued and, more importantly, their minivans were perceived in the marketplace as not being safe for kids. Kids, both inside and outside the vans were getting injured, and they saw it as a losing cause to make the argument that it is the parents responsibility, etc., especially when all the other manufacturers had Interlocks installed. They were getting nailed in lawsuits because it was easily shown that these incidents were Foreseeable Events.

    By the way, the ignition key only has to be in the On-position to shift out of Park, the engine does not have to be running. Some of the older kids (3-4 years), are turning the key from Off to the On-Position, and some of them, wanting to imitate their parents, will get the key, insert it, and turn it on. But roll aways can't happen if the brake pedal has to be applied.
    (If they can handle a computer mouse, they can turn a key)

    Also, it was the 1970-1980 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury vehicles that were in a huge safety recall because the Park gear was not properly engaged, even though it appeared to be in Park. We have worked on Audis for many years, they never had that problem.
  • hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    I was stationing in Alameda and out for a cruise with some buddies when I stopped to use a payphone to call my wife who still lived back in Washington. My buddies were in the store buying something when I see this maybe 67 Galaxie backing up toward me. The drivers door is hanging open and the dome light is on but nobody is inside! It's running coming down a slight hill and curving right at me. I in mid conversation told my wife to "hold on a second" The car proceeds to drive right over the pole the phone is on and push it back a good 5 feet. The whole thing is laying on the ground, under the ford, wires all tight as a drum. I pick up the phone and ask my wife, "still there?" She is and we continue our conversation. My buddies see most of this and just bust up. Then this 17 YO kid comes running up, It was his dad's "baby" and he was nervous. The pole didn't do much more then a crease in the bumper but that door hanging open caught something and bent it backward. He must have been just as worried about paying for the phone, cause he proceeded to take off. I finished my call and had a good laugh. Later my wife and I moved to within 2 blocks of that phone in Novato, so I always got a funny memory of that phone call! I had completely forgot about it until this topic came up, so thanks to you all here as well.
  • hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    My lawn mower does have that interlock and it ticks me off sometimes too. At least you can set the parking brake and get off and it will continue to idle as long as the blades are not engaged. Its more when I'm plowing with it and need to lean forward in the seat, as soon as my weight comes off, it starts to die, so then I have to take my hand off the wheel and hold the seat down while I adjust the blade. Oh well, if I run over rover while doing this I'm suing Craftsman anyway!
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    Our 97 Dodge GC LE (bought it new) has been a decent van. It has 103K miles, and No transmission problem. Changed fluid at 50, 75, and 100K at Dodge dealer. We pull a 2800 ibs pop up camper three times a year. On uphill drives, I slow down to 55-60 mph. Its room,layout, ride and comfort on the highway is very satisfactory. Without pulling camper it still gets 22-23 mpg. Just changed the plugs for the first time.

    As much horror stories I hear about Chrysler vans, I still like them. You don't get your money back as much as you will do with Honda Oddessy in 2-3 years if you decide to sell, but if you keep the van for 10 years, it does not matter what you drive. At that point, it comes to which one is better taken care of.
  • randyw4randyw4 Member Posts: 2
    While this may not be appropriate to this discussion group, you all seem to have better answers than the others. Maybe someone can help? I'm trying to install an aftermarket alarm system in my '94 Dodge GC. Is there a "main connector" in the wiring harness where I might be able to access all the important connections, like +12 volts, door locks, lights, etc? How might I obtain the appropriate color codes for the wires that I need to access? Thank you for any and all help, and have a GREAT Summer!
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Randy: This does not sound like an easy project so I presume you have considered professional help. Also alternatives such as a Club or an ignition bypass. The wiring diagrams are illustrated in a Haynes manual 84-95 Dodge Caravan, however, they are not easy to figure out. On the other hand, you'll get a lot of other easier to use information such as changing brake pads, tune up data, etc. Good luck
  • genlegenle Member Posts: 1
    Lazy people who don't bother setting the parking brake, even on hills, are asking for a busted shift lockout. This means that there is nothing physically in the way of having the shifter slip from park to reverse, regardless of brake pedal or ignition key position.

    At least I thought it was because they were lazy. Turns out some GM cars (to my knowledge, Buick) designed the foot brake so easy to set and release with a push (maybe for those arthritic knees?) that seriously half the time it's push to set-release. In other words, surprise, you think you set the brake -- it felt & sounded like you did -- but it follows your foot right back up, and it's not set.

    I conjecture that some people will conclude something like: "if they intended to have the brake set all the time, the thing wouldn't do that," and a habit is born. They don't realize that a five dollar tab of metal is all that is between them and suddenly rolling into traffic.

    Talk about having a "DUH" moment.
  • randyw4randyw4 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, royallen for the advice. The problem I'm facing is that I want to protect the CONTENTS of the van, and discourage people from even THINKING they might want to break-in. Although I'm reasonably good with automotive electrics, the prospect of accidently setting-off the airbags is enough to make me think twice. Professional help, either for me or the van, doesn't sound like a half-bad idea!
  • real123real123 Member Posts: 20
    My 98 GV has 53k and makes a kind of growling noise with a slight lurch when I am stopped at a light with my foot on the brake. It does not make this noise while driving or while in park. I'm guessing it has something to do with the amount of fuel getting to the engine, perhaps due to a clogged fuel filter(which has never been changed). I filled up with premium gas and added a cleaner in the gas tank and the problem went away temporarily. On the next tank of regular gas it came back. Is my van simply finicky for expensive gas? Any ideas?
  • toronado455toronado455 Member Posts: 83
    I've noticed in all the 2002 Chrysler minivans I've driven that when you come to a stop the transmission hiccups like as if you were driving a stick and forgot to step on the clutch until the very last second before you stopped. There is this feeling like the torque converter clutch or whatever is not letting go and then releasing at the last minute with a bump.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    the infamous bump/stop sensation is common to all fwd chrysler electronic automatics. it is simply the tranny downshifting to first gear. i've encountered the same "feeling" on fwd gm cars i've rented...it is normal.
  • hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    This is our 4th Chrysler van and I've never felt it, maybe I drive differently. Our newest is a 2000 model with AWD so maybe something is different, but it would seem like the torque converter is maintaining it's lockup too long instead of slipping as it's supposed to when you come to a stop.
  • toronado455toronado455 Member Posts: 83
    emale,

    What I'm describing happens only in the last few feet before the car comes to a stop. Would the tranny actually be shifting into 1st at that time? It seems more like a design flaw in the torque converter that it's not releasing when it should. The two SWB vans I've driven had only a slight version of this sensation. But the one LWB I drove had a really pronounced jerk that you could feel. It was really annoying.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    all 41te (minivan trannies) and 42le (intrepid, concorde) trannies do this. for some reason it is more noticeable on some cars vs others. for instance it was quite noticeable on my '96 intrepid but not nearly as noticeable on my '00 intrepid. my dad's '96 town and country does the bump/shift thing but it's fairly muted. i just rented an '02 stratus (41te tranny) and it was quite noticeable. it has something to do with the downshift to first gear along with the some sort of overrunning clutch in the tranny. if there are any tranny techs out there they can explain it better, please feel free to jump in. but it is a normal sensation with chrysler fwd "electronic" automatics. in vehicles that display excessive bump/shift, having the dealership reprogram the tranny can help.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    btw, it has nothing to do with the torque converter. if the tc clutch weren't unlocking properly the vehicle's engine would stall at such low speeds.
  • hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    Supposedly the new "bulletproof" Allision transmission does it bad too in the HD Chevy trucks. I still think since not all do it, it is not something that is supposed to happen. If it's under warranty then it can't hurt to complain. If it fails later out of warranty then you can try and pin it on them.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    I have a '95 Caravan which comes to a smooth stop and I can not tell when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 1st. It is also obvious the torque converter is not locked because when cruising at 30 mph at an rpm of about 2000, when I let up on the gas, the rpm declines smoothly to 1000 while I'm barely below 30 mph.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    My '99 GCS is nearly due for its 3-year servicing. I will bring it in before the anniversary date to make sure any problems are still covered under warranty. One problem the van has is that the steering column/wheel will rattle when I go over a bump of almost any size. I can actually wiggle the steering wheel a bit. What might cause this kind of problem? Could it be something as simple as a loose mounting nut? Other than the rattle, there's no other symptom. The van has been almost trouble-free otherwise, with only one part failure (an engine sensor) and one fix (replace side door tracks to eliminate a rattle in cold weather). Also, there was the fuel rail recall, for which I just got the notice. But my dealer took care of it early, during an oil change a few months ago.
  • tomtomtomtomtomtom Member Posts: 491
    I have the plastic tapping/ cracking kind of noise from my 2001 T&C steering wheel column. I mentioned it to the dealer while doing that AC reprogramming recall. And of course, the noise was not there when the service people doing the test drive.
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    There is a TSB out for this and involves placement of insulating tape to prevent the clockspring assembly from rattling.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Thanks! I'll make sure my service advisor is aware of the TSB.
  • jmklwckjmklwck Member Posts: 2
    Well the fact is I have just dealt with my last Chrysler/Dodge/Daimler product. It is amazing how much I can read online and feel a togetherness (betrayal) like so many other Chrysler T&C Van owners. I bought a 96 T&C and have experienced the same problems as most other owners: Transmission failure, brake wear, O2 sensor, water pump, even the crazy issue with intermittent wiper. This is not a fluke; instead it is a KNOWN problem that Chrysler only recognizes when you have your lawyers call them. Edmunds sums it up...Chrysler will never be able to bolt in reliability and quality. I know that those folks that build these vehicles feel compelled to support their company. Most likely the problem isn't you all but downright poor engineering. You can't argue with my feelings so please don't try. The bottom line is that reliability isn't high on DC's list. It was the best driving van, however, it's hard to drive in the shop. If Chrysler wants my business and others, then they need to fess up and send me acknowledgment of this inherent problem and 1/2 the costs of the repairs..
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    If Chrysler wants my business and others, then they need to fess up and send me acknowledgment of this inherent problem and 1/2 the costs of the repairs..
    Good luck, just don't hold your breath. They burned me twice. Will never get the third chance.
  • hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    You right, you can't do that. Unfortunately facts are better to argue, and not personal experiences. Any researching firms that check into actual repair records and bounce that off the number (millions) of these vans on the road and it ends up being no worse then average. The problem is in that Chrysler was the only van with some power, driving a large van, through the front tires with an OD automatic transmission. When you compare apples to apples you see the same problems with all the makes, including specifically the new Honda. Which makes the transmission failure rate average. A lot of the other problems are wear items, how can you say the brakes wear to quickly? If it's a problem buy a lifetime set from an aftermarket shop and be done with it (our pads have 38,000 miles on them and have tons of wear left, same goes for the tires.) I think you will find most in this forum is people looking to vent, not help others. You are then in good company here. Not many people come here (besides me) who don't have any problems (in 4 different DC vans), I guess thus the name "minivan problems"! For every one of your personal horror stories there are 10 love stories out there, unfortunately there is no "love your minivan" topic, and nobody but me to come out of the closet and post anyway!
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    my dad's '96 t&c has been a very good vehicle. no tranny problems...no o2 sensor problem. he did have the fuel pump replaced and a couple recalls were performed on the van. the front suspension is now clunking but apparently that is due to worn sway bar bushings (cheap fix). van now has 80k miles and still drives like new. and the brakes haven't been touched! but he does drive like an old man so that stat might not be too telling...

    all in all his experience has been good.
  • 4aodge4aodge Member Posts: 288
    If all DC minivans are prone to early transmission failures, why are they still selling so much? And there are many repeat buyers, just go to your local Chrysler dealership and look at all of the used vans sitting on the lot that have been traded in on new ones.

    I can honestly say I were dmathews3 I would not buy another DC van after having problems with 2 previous ones if and only if it was a FACT Chrysler had not done anything to improve their product's quality and reliability. But that just isn't the case and dmathews knows it himself. Talk about putting down another product to make yourself feel better about what you have!

    We've had two Chrysler vans and no problems. I know some owners who have had problems and are driving something else now, like the Odyssey. But I know many more people who love their DC vans and would never trade it for anything else. Carelton has also owned two DC vans that have never had any transmission problems.

    -Adam
  • hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    Wow, you all are out there! Just wait, now the trolls will pick up on all the traffic here and be out in force... just give them a few more hours!
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    I don't care if they made the best vehicle on this planet, they got me twice, no way will they get the third chance.
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    Many buyers probably come back because their trans was replaced under the 7/70 warranty. We are low mileage drivers and probably won't exceed 70K in 10 years. Others are eternal optimists.

    I shopped for a new van earlier this year but decided to postpone purchase until DC puts safe (Gen 4) buckles on its seatbelts. Waiting for 03 model now. Then will compare DC and Honda again. Would be nice if DC offered an SE with quad seats like they used to so I could avoid some of the power options that add electrical gremlins.
  • hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    That warranty went away in 95 I think and hasn't been back since the recient 7/100 warranty. We had 4 of the 4 speed OD transmissions and never had a single problem there. One of the vans had 145,000 miles on it when we traded it in. We tow with the vans, do jackrabbit starts, take them off road hunting, and just generally abuse them. Even set the parking brake to see how good a FWD burnout a caravan will do? Well I have, most of my personal problems were from damage (torn cv boots, broken radiator.). The 145,000 mile van did end up with a bad head gasket and the 3.0 liter smoking, but they still gave us $2000 trade in on a 10 year old van with those problems that cost under $20,000 new. Our newest van just went off warranty so now I guess we are in for it! We actually bought it used with about 18,000 miles on it, and it was a rental van before that so our trouble must be double! I have faith in our van, thought about the extended warranty but realize that the companies make money selling those things, so the average van must have less repair costs then the wholesale cost of the warranty, so I'm hopeing for average. Seeing as the wholesale cost is much less then a complete transmission replacement, then there is no way replacing the transmission could be considered average.
  • mazzonimazzoni Member Posts: 4
    I drive a 1998 grand caravan and have 52250 trouble free miles, BUT, all this talk of trouble has me worried! I plan to drive across the country(Louisiana to Calif and return) and am now considering an extended warranty (plan to keep van another 2 years). Edmunds (Warrantybynet)quotes $1228. for 3yrs/40,000 after inspection. Does this sound about right? My main concern is not price but usability. Thanks.
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    I don't think you will find a reasonably priced extended warranty at this point. GC repairs are relatively cheap compared with other brands--new trans about $2400 compared to almost $6,000 for Ody trans--so just bring your checkbook. We also keep a cell phone in ours--just a $10/mo. plan with no included minutes--for emergency.
  • oreste1oreste1 Member Posts: 1
    I have to agree with dmathews3 about DC. In the past I have owned a 1991 Gr Caravan
    and have had a 1994 all wheel drive at work. I presently own a 1999 Grand Caravan ES
    and it will be the last.
    The others had their problems but it seemed the folks at Dodge were more open and willing
    to help. The 1991 went 185000 miles but got too expense to put any repairs into. The 1999
    seems to be even more prone to problems. Here is the list of problems.
    Master cylinder reservoir replaced twice, steering column replaced twice, transmission
    sensors replaced once, serpentine belt tension idler pulley replaced twice, rear wheel bearing
    replaced once, Anti-sway bar bushings once, first set of braked lasted 64000 miles had them
    replaced last April(01) second set lasted 31000 miles this April(02) I had a new set of brakes
    install, they lasted 1000 miles, had another set put on under waranttee they lasted 1200 miles
    and they had warped rotors.I pick the van up today with another set of brakes, new rotors, drums,
    and pads. How long will these last is anybody's guess. I asked the service rep if maybe there was
    a problem with the ABS system that was taxing the front brakes too much. He said the tech said
    "No it was working fine" . When I asked him why I got 64000 mile on the original and have so
    many problem now he stated , to my dismay, that DC uses a lower quality brake set-up on repairs
    because"Dodge people do not want to pay for extra quality parts". I seems to me that
    factory replacement parts should be the same quality as original equipment. If I want original
    equipment I have to special order and pay more for the better quality. Since April I've
    put over $2000 in repairs to this vehicle. My problem is not only the repairs and cost but also
    with the attitude they have. In addition to this vehicle I also have a 1997 and a 1998 Pontiac
    Grand Prix. These two vehicles have been rock solid with just normal maintenace. You be
    the judge. Also as a special note, the 1999 ES comes with 17" wheels/tires.
    (215-60-17) there is only one tire that is made for that rim, that is a Michelin MX4. There is no
    other Michelin, Goodyear, Cooper, Toyo, Yokohama or any other tire in the whole world that
    will fit on. The Michelin MX4 is a fine tire except in snow then driving become real interesting
    especially if the front rotors are warped.
  • gmusic7gmusic7 Member Posts: 42
    help please...

    there is a problem with my parent's 1997 sliding door. the door will not lock by using either the power lock switch or by manually locking.

    is there a way to open/remove the door panel to get to the locking mechanism?

    my goal is to at least be able to lock the door manually.
  • 4aodge4aodge Member Posts: 288
    I'm sorry to hear you have had so many problems with your 1999 Grand Caravan ES. The ES is a very nice model; it's too bad you have had to put so much money and time into repairs. To me, it sounds like you got a lemon. But that's just me. My friend has a 1999 Grand Caravan ES 3.8 they use to tow a camping trailer. Their van has been very reliable and hasn't had any problems. Good luck in the future.
  • buyersoonbuyersoon Member Posts: 7
    Is it true that the 4cyl Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth minivans DO NOT experience the problems that the v6's do????
    I have gathered also that these minivans have AC problems?
    I am in the market for a used minivan. Am I right that post 1997 minvans are better?
  • hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    I posted a response to this over at the transmission forum.
  • hersbirdhersbird Member Posts: 323
    Michelin does make their studdless snow tire the Artic Alpin in that size as well. I am thinking of switching to 17" or 18" wheels on our 2000 sport and would go with a 225/55/17, that is only 2/10ths of an inch shorter and a little wider then the stock size. Tire Rack lists 29 different tires in that size ($91-$310 each), sure to have something to fit your driving style. Hardly anybody (about 3 different companies) makes a tire the same as on my Dakota either (255/55/17), but a least the Dakota can handle a large varaity of other sizes (going to go with a 275/50/17).
  • 4aodge4aodge Member Posts: 288
    I wouldn't buy any Chrysler minivan older than a 1999 model. From what I've read, Chrysler made some significant changes to the transmission in 1999 and started using a new type of fluid. We had a 1998 Grand Caravan that went to 70k miles without any problems, but I'd still be safe and limit myself to a 1999 or 2000 model year Chrysler van. Whatever you do, do not buy a 1996 or 1997 year van because many of those had serious problems , especially with transmission and A/C.

    Good luck!

    -Adam
  • tomtomtomtomtomtom Member Posts: 491
    very interesting explanation/ theory on why people would buy a DC van one after another...
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    As a repeat buyer of Dodge Caravans, I can tell you it wasn't because of poor trade-in value. I bought a new '91 base Caravan for $13,000--4 cyl. with a hose-em-out interior. I sold it privately eight years later for $5900. That's pretty good resale value I think. I leased a new '99 GCS because of A) ride and handling, B) comfort and features, C) styling, D) great dealer service on my '91 van, E) great lease deal (under $300/month for a $28,000 MSRP van with almost nothing down), and F) the only other van I had an interest in, the new-for-'99 Odyessy, had a very long waiting list and a take-it-or-leave-it full sticker price. BTW, at that same time a friend of mine was on a waiting list for the Odyssey, got fed up and went and bought a loaded T&C Limited. He's very happy with it.
  • shanleishanlei Member Posts: 2
    3.0 engine and 3 speed tranny. I really appreciate if anyone could enlighten me of how to remove the rear brake drum. After the removal of rear wheel, it won't come off (parking brake released). Is it stucked there? or did I miss something? and what should I do if it is stucked?

    Thanks in advance,
    Lei
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Did you take the little plug out on the inside of the wheel and manually back off the brakes? If not that is your problem. Also sometimes the drum can stick to the axle with rust etc. May need to be jarred loose.
  • tomtomtomtomtomtom Member Posts: 491
    It is not unusual to see mechanics (in Midas)hammering the rear drums before they can take them out
  • shanleishanlei Member Posts: 2
    dmathews3,

    >>Did you take the little plug out on the inside of the wheel and manually back off the brakes?<<

    Which little plug ? on the wheel or on the brake housing? and how to manually back off the brakes? could you please describe more details?

    Thanks a lot,
    Lei
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Showing your age, huh? In the old days we didn't have self-adjusters and when you got your oil changed they would check your brakes and adjust as nec. Anyway on the back side of the wheel (the part attached to the axle there should be a plug about 1/2" by about 1 1/2". Take the plug (rubber if I remember) out and there is a wheel in there with teeth and they have a real brake tool used to adjust them but some people can make due with a screwdriver and back off the wheel which contracts the pads away from the drum. Which way do you turn the wheel, that I don't remember. Here is a site that explains how to do it on trailers as they still use this type system. It should help you out. http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/brkadj.html
  • cavillercaviller Member Posts: 331
    If you own a 2002 Dodge/Chrysler minivan, can you please confirm how many standard and optional tether anchor locations exist for the second and third row seating? Also, are there any printed warnings about the number of children/carseats allowed in the third row?

    Some parents are being told by dealer and manufacurer that only one [or two] child/carseat may be installed in the 3rd row of the 2002 models. In addition, Chrysler apparently switched the number of factory installed tether anchors from three to one from MY2001 to MY2002.

    Any information on this would be appreciated. A scan of the relevant pages in the owner's manual would be great. Please no flames or attacks, I need the information to assist parents with proper carseat installation information. If you do have information, I'd appreciate a copy to the email address in my profile in addition to a response here. Thanks!
  • gwindy1gwindy1 Member Posts: 1
    A regional manager in the northeast has offered to do a voluntary buyback on my 2001 Grand Caravan ES AWD. They are offering difference in sticker plus .30 per mile (20K miles). There is a rebate being offered but not answer on that question.
    I have sent letters to the Head of NA Sales and the President in Germany. The offer was made before the President received the letter. Any suggestions on how to handle this. The car has been at the dealership for over a month and is unsafe to drive (although the dealership will tell you otherwise)
  • rolfe2rolfe2 Member Posts: 81
    What I learned (Northwest, not Northeast) is that when DC makes an offer to buy a vehicle back, they offer exactly what your state's lemon law provides, no more, no less. In other words, they won't negotiate the terms because they won't do any more than the lemon law would force them to do if they lost their case to you.


    You should compare their offer to what you can read on http://www.carlemon.com/lemonstat.html.


    Furthermore, any current incentives (rebates, etc.) don't enter into the picture at all.


    I believe that the dealership has a limit on how many buy backs they are allowed without jeapordizing their 5-star status or whatever, but that the funding comes from the 'factory' not the dealership. That's why the incentives don't figure in.


    Consider yourself lucky that you have their offer to consider; now you just have to evaluate your alternatives.


    --rolfe.

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