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I've seen lots for sale in the past on ebay and you should also check the classifieds sections of places like swedespeed.com, volvospeed.com, and maybe brickboard.com.
Let us know the verdict on your problem if and when you get it fixed. (you may choose to just live without AC on a 240k mile car until it finally dies)
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
It's a T5, could there be icing in the intercooler or turbo like carb icing in older cars? In that case a faulty intake hot air valve(not sure on the correct term here) could fit the picture, i'll have to check it out.
It's been under -20 almost 2 weeks, hrrr... hooray for grid powered heaters!
Today, it has just over 150,000 miles on it, and I still say it is the best car we have ever owned. We bought our 1999 S70 base brand new in 1999. We ordered it from the factory with no options whatesoever save for the moonroof...so we have a naturally-aspirated 5-cyl with a manual 5-spd transmission...manual seats, cloth/vinyl interior, no cd player. It's "Pewter Silver Metallic" (silver) with "taupe" (tan" interior.
At 150,000 miles, the car STILL drives like a new car -- it doesn't rattle, it doesn't shake, it doesn't do anything wrong. The interior's not falling apart, the body panels still have the same close tolerances as the day we bought it. Sure, we weathered the lightbulb-eating days until a)the dealership changed some blinker sockets and b) I lightly sanded the bulb and socket when I changed them...and spritzed a little WD40 on them to drive out moisture. We haven't had to change a bulb in years.
In 150,000 miles we have worn out two sets of brakes. We have worn out four sets of tires and are about to get our fifth set. We have worn out the ball joints and had them replaced. We have replaced the battery once. We have stuck things through the rear speakers and replaced them.
In 150,000 miles we have NOT had the car strand us or fail to start. Ever. We have not had the interior fall apart, or get "floppy" or anything. We have not had to track down mysterious problems, or live with little problems that aren't worth fixing.
For the past eight years and 150,000 miles we have had a smooth-driving, quiet, sturdy, comfortable European sedan that has seen us grow from a young couple to a family of six, and that has done everything we have ever asked of it. It has cruised for hours on end at 75mph on freeways, it has forded Michigan snowdrifts with no ado, it has carried building supplies and it has carried four children. All for an initial purchase price of $26,400.
To anyone who bashes their Volvo; who says they ditched their S70 for a Toyota Avalon; who cites Consumer Reports' dismal reviews...I offer the preceding response, and I challenge any Toyota (or other over-hyped Japanese car) owner to keep their car for a decade and/or 150,000 miles and still like it as much as we like our Volvo.
thanks,
sam norris
the S-70 experience. This too was a major complaint I had with the S-70. I Change to softer settings and the handling suffered. Hope this is a help
Tatum2
KCMO
I was traveling further away from home this time and had a mechanic check the error readings on the computer given that the problem didn't occur everytime I used the car. To my and the mechanics surprise, the on board computer did not provide any error message but only produced garbage on the screen of his test equipment scrolling in fast speed across the screen. Rather than paying another $110 diagnosis fee at my local Volvo dealership I was wondering whether anyone in this forum has any suggestion given that the car might not be worth another throttle body replacement in the range of $1100-$1300.
Thanks
I live in central Alabama, and I am hoping there might be someone on this forum who can give me some maintenance info and costs for the area.
Most of all, and I guess this is a question for you gentlemen on the forum, would you feel comfortable putting your wife, sister, mother or daughter in such a car for such a long commute (in the wee hours of the morning, by the way)? And, considering that money is a huge issue here, what kind of upkeep am I possibly looking at?
Also, what are the questions you would ask if you were considering purchasing it?
Thanks very much for your advice and help!
In any case, to be perfectly honest, it does not sound like the S70 is for you. If you are looking for something inexpensive, easy to maintain, cheap, and will last another 100k, it sounds like you should be looking at an older 'yota or honda 4-cylinder.
The s70 is a great car, but I cannot recommend it for someone looking for basic cheap transportation on a budget.
It WILL need more maintenance than some other cars. With those miles, it may be due for its 2nd timing belt very soon(depending on manufacture date). That alone means several hundred bucks right from the getgo. Add in a tuneup and you are probably looking at $600 or so (depending on whether you go to a dealer or indy volvo specialist). If the common ABS issue has not been fixed, you'll also face that sooner than later. It may also be due for front hubs, endlinks, shocks, etc. This is all common stuff that is to be expected on these cars. Only someone who is expecting a good deal of maintenance should consider buying one.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
If the car you are looking at was well maintained,and if you continue to maintain it,there is no reason that it couldn't go another 100k.
However, it won't be cheap.
I currently own a Volvo 1998 S70 GLT with about 109,000 miles. While the Volvo is a great car, the maintenance however, does not come cheap at all. Even with regular maintenance (which I have performed timely over the years), it does have its shares of unexpected problems now and then.
While these repairs are not major in any case, it still will set you back a few hundred dollars each time.
Unless you know a thing or two about fixing cars, I would suggest to get another car with lower mileage to avoid any future headaches.
While I am not an advocate of any cars, a second hand Camry or Accord may provide a bit more longevity.
Good Luck
just recently got an s70 with 86,000k miles.
love it!
my coolant warning light went on today,
checked manual, then opened hood and
checked coolant level. looked okay..
half way between min and max.
is it ok to drive home?
i am at my mom's and need to drive 3 hrs home!!
need advice soon!
much thanks, ahead of time.
tracy
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
tracy
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a 2000 volvo s70 and I have the same problem. I thought it could be a short in the fuel pump wiring(green and red). I am looking all over the internet for some to answer our problem. So far no luck. Please tell me if you have found the problem. Thanks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thank you
Chris
Now, you ARE talking about the actual odometer and not the trip meter, correct??
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
In theory, the odo can be changed, but it would take access to a VADIS or VIDA setup to do it.
in other words, it would have to be a deliberate act.
However, the leather on seats is cracking and would need to be reupholstered to get into tip top shape. Also, there are a few stains on the backseat carpet because they have children. Besides those items the car is good shape.
For the price they are asking 7,400 and the car is at this place called the Buggy Bank, they are a facilitator to connect buyers with sellers by hosting their cars at a lot, but you do all negotiating with the private seller. According to edmunds the car is worth ~6,650 in good condition and about ~5,500 in fair condition, if buying from a private seller, add a thousand if from a dealer. So, I'd like to make an offer and a fair that is not too high or low and would like an opinion or two.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
At least in private party transactions.
the availability of decent cars is very low.
Saw the same thing happen w/ the 240 about 10 yrs ago.
If it were my car,and it was in good mechanical shape w/ all the records, I'd be holding out for $6000 at least.
I probably would have re-covered the seats though. That isn't a lot of money.
Oh, of course. AFTER I sell mine. ;b
not alot to reupholster leather? hmmm... dont' know about that. I just did the seat bottoms in my alfa last year and it cost me $450. And that was supposedly a special business-to-business secret handshake deal.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Also found a white '98 base model with leather and 86k miles and perfect seats at another dealer for $3995.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I recently took my car to the mechanic to fix the rack-n-pinion (apologize for the spelling). After he replaced it, all hell broke loose. First, the car started making a sound when moving, second I got a check engine light with a code that, according to the mechanic, was due to a gas leak.
So, I took it back to the same mechanic, and he told me that fixed the gas leak, but the noise was coming from the turbo. By the time I got home, the check engine light was back on. So, of course, I took it back. This time the code was diiferent (I believe now it was 1701). The mechanic claimed it was a gas leak from another place, and to fix it, it cost $150. I went for it.
Again, by the time I got home, the check engine light was back on, but this time with the same 1701 code. I took it back, and the mechanic claimed that this is caused by the leak in the turbo. And offered to clean it up for free.
When I went back to pick up the car a couple of days later, he told me the mass air flow control unit was damaged and needed to be replaced and that the car was not idling correctly. Sure enough, when I started the car on the mechanic's lot, it kept revving up and down like crazy (when sitting at idle). This was never there before. When I dropped the car off the last time, the engine was humming like a bird. My question is, could it be possible that this is a mere coincidence, or is possible that he screwed something up trying to find the origin of the code?
Thank you guys for any help that you can offer
Jay
an Alfa huh?
Well, you paid the Italian car POS special markup :P
any thoughts on what may have caused this? I think it may be the alternator, and hence the battery is probably shot too now. if I jump it, do you think it will make it to the shop?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
well, yeah, if everything was fine until a mechanic touched the car, I'd certainly be looking to them as the cause of the problem.
what year is your S70?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
It COULD be the battery itself. I've never had a car that was as sensitive to the battery's condition as my S70. If the battery was not in very good working order, the car would not operate (as opposed to most cars wherea dying battery may still allow you to start the car and run off the alternator).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Battery not charging,so the voltage level keeps dropping,this affects different systems on the car until it stops running altogether.
qbrozen- I live near modesto, ca and have been traveling to the San Francisco Bay area to look at cars and while I have found some cars at that price, they are all at those dealers that buy them at auction, clean them up nice, but under the hood they are a mess. They have all needed about 2-3k in repairs and maintenance.
By the way, I picked up a "mass air flow control unit" from a junk yard last night and installed it on the car. It stopped revving up and down, and it's back to normal. But I'm not sure I can prove the mechanic did it. All I know is that neither the check engine code nor the revving up and down was there before he touched it!
This was the first time I dealt with this mechanic, and I only went to him cause he's supposed to be a "foreign car expert". Any advice on how to deal with him? What to ask him? I'm thinking small claims court. But I'm wondering if there's an easier way.
Jay
2nd, who told you it was installed incorrectly? did this 2nd mechanic find anything else wrong?
i would get a statement from this mechanic saying it was installed incorrectly and show this to mechanic 1. if he doesn't make good on this problem, then you may need to step it up a notch. Forget the MAF problem. It is a common failure on the '99s, so there is no way to know if anything he did caused that particular problem.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S