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Volvo S70

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Comments

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    no problem.

    I've seen lots for sale in the past on ebay and you should also check the classifieds sections of places like swedespeed.com, volvospeed.com, and maybe brickboard.com.

    Let us know the verdict on your problem if and when you get it fixed. (you may choose to just live without AC on a 240k mile car until it finally dies)

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • 238ks70238ks70 Member Posts: 4
    does anyone know if its necassary to replace those nerf footballs that are sitting inside the rear springs, ones loose and im going to replace the rear shocks really soon and i'll replace those footballs if i really have to
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    I THINK you are referring to the spring retaining clips. Yes, you need to replace those. They can cause clunking sounds in the rear.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • muuramenianmuuramenian Member Posts: 3
    When it gets down to -20/-30 C, our S70 occasionally refuses to accelerate past 40km/h, even after several hours with the block heater on. It starts up fine but just won't go any faster even after 20km of driving. The trick is to stop the engine once up to normal coolant temps and let it sit for a couple minutes. Then it works great. I've used gas de-icer, don't think water in the fuel system is the problem, it's done this before and after a MAF-sensor replacement.

    It's a T5, could there be icing in the intercooler or turbo like carb icing in older cars? In that case a faulty intake hot air valve(not sure on the correct term here) could fit the picture, i'll have to check it out.

    It's been under -20 almost 2 weeks, hrrr... hooray for grid powered heaters!
  • studbutterstudbutter Member Posts: 7
    ....I wrote post #361 on this very forum, in this very topic. "Positive Experience" on Apr. 2, 2002. Our S70 had 55k miles then and we still own it today.

    Today, it has just over 150,000 miles on it, and I still say it is the best car we have ever owned. We bought our 1999 S70 base brand new in 1999. We ordered it from the factory with no options whatesoever save for the moonroof...so we have a naturally-aspirated 5-cyl with a manual 5-spd transmission...manual seats, cloth/vinyl interior, no cd player. It's "Pewter Silver Metallic" (silver) with "taupe" (tan" interior.

    At 150,000 miles, the car STILL drives like a new car -- it doesn't rattle, it doesn't shake, it doesn't do anything wrong. The interior's not falling apart, the body panels still have the same close tolerances as the day we bought it. Sure, we weathered the lightbulb-eating days until a)the dealership changed some blinker sockets and b) I lightly sanded the bulb and socket when I changed them...and spritzed a little WD40 on them to drive out moisture. We haven't had to change a bulb in years.

    In 150,000 miles we have worn out two sets of brakes. We have worn out four sets of tires and are about to get our fifth set. We have worn out the ball joints and had them replaced. We have replaced the battery once. We have stuck things through the rear speakers and replaced them.

    In 150,000 miles we have NOT had the car strand us or fail to start. Ever. We have not had the interior fall apart, or get "floppy" or anything. We have not had to track down mysterious problems, or live with little problems that aren't worth fixing.

    For the past eight years and 150,000 miles we have had a smooth-driving, quiet, sturdy, comfortable European sedan that has seen us grow from a young couple to a family of six, and that has done everything we have ever asked of it. It has cruised for hours on end at 75mph on freeways, it has forded Michigan snowdrifts with no ado, it has carried building supplies and it has carried four children. All for an initial purchase price of $26,400.

    To anyone who bashes their Volvo; who says they ditched their S70 for a Toyota Avalon; who cites Consumer Reports' dismal reviews...I offer the preceding response, and I challenge any Toyota (or other over-hyped Japanese car) owner to keep their car for a decade and/or 150,000 miles and still like it as much as we like our Volvo.
  • lweisslweiss Member Posts: 342
    My 1998 Volvo S70 kind of mirrors your experience. With 123K miles, I am amazed also that there are no rattles, not much wear on the cloth seats and I give it oil changes "Every 3,000 Miles at Jiffy Lube". And the car accelerates well, no play in the steering, starts easily- only thing is that the radio needs replacing (a common problem I understand) and the occasionally the lightbulb issues. But for a car that was paid off years ago, runs great (I feed in premium fuel, may not need it, but only a few dollars extra per week, what the heck). I keep it garaged too, the paint looks great, I will hate to get rid of it when it (finally) needs a major repair- the car is only worth about $4,000 around here.
  • srnorris99srnorris99 Member Posts: 1
    the cd player will not accept a cd... there is not one already stuck in the player... i've checked the fuses, and reset the code for the radio, and it and the tape deck work fine... the cd player just will not accept a cd... any suggestions?
    thanks,
    sam norris
  • tatum2tatum2 Member Posts: 7
    I Feel your pain but I am afraid the harsh ride is part of
    the S-70 experience. This too was a major complaint I had with the S-70. I Change to softer settings and the handling suffered. Hope this is a help

    Tatum2
    KCMO
  • eddy4goodeddy4good Member Posts: 4
    I am back with similar problems (i.e., sporadic appearance of limp home modes like: engine shutting off in idle mode, no acceleration at low speeds, RPM dropping, check engine light appearing from time to time etc.). This all happens after I went for service in relation to the last VOLVO recall on throttle positioning senor irregularities, inefficient software calibration, etc. earlier in 2007).

    I was traveling further away from home this time and had a mechanic check the error readings on the computer given that the problem didn't occur everytime I used the car. To my and the mechanics surprise, the on board computer did not provide any error message but only produced garbage on the screen of his test equipment scrolling in fast speed across the screen. Rather than paying another $110 diagnosis fee at my local Volvo dealership I was wondering whether anyone in this forum has any suggestion given that the car might not be worth another throttle body replacement in the range of $1100-$1300.
    Thanks
  • cindyroucindyrou Member Posts: 2
    I have run a carfax and it comes back clean. It does not list any dealer maintenance, however. I am going for a test drive tomorrow and will be asking for maintenance info, because it appears the previous two owners (one for over 100000 mi) must have used someone else. It has 126,500 miles on it. It looks great, and I am looking for your opinions. I need a car that will be reliable for a very long commute (65 mi one way) and that will get me at least 100000 miles until I can afford a new car.

    I live in central Alabama, and I am hoping there might be someone on this forum who can give me some maintenance info and costs for the area.

    Most of all, and I guess this is a question for you gentlemen on the forum, would you feel comfortable putting your wife, sister, mother or daughter in such a car for such a long commute (in the wee hours of the morning, by the way)? And, considering that money is a huge issue here, what kind of upkeep am I possibly looking at?

    Also, what are the questions you would ask if you were considering purchasing it?

    Thanks very much for your advice and help!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    You didn't mention which model. GLT? T5? base?

    In any case, to be perfectly honest, it does not sound like the S70 is for you. If you are looking for something inexpensive, easy to maintain, cheap, and will last another 100k, it sounds like you should be looking at an older 'yota or honda 4-cylinder.

    The s70 is a great car, but I cannot recommend it for someone looking for basic cheap transportation on a budget.

    It WILL need more maintenance than some other cars. With those miles, it may be due for its 2nd timing belt very soon(depending on manufacture date). That alone means several hundred bucks right from the getgo. Add in a tuneup and you are probably looking at $600 or so (depending on whether you go to a dealer or indy volvo specialist). If the common ABS issue has not been fixed, you'll also face that sooner than later. It may also be due for front hubs, endlinks, shocks, etc. This is all common stuff that is to be expected on these cars. Only someone who is expecting a good deal of maintenance should consider buying one.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    As gbrozen has said, an S70 will need quite a bit of maintenance at 100k plus miles.
    If the car you are looking at was well maintained,and if you continue to maintain it,there is no reason that it couldn't go another 100k.
    However, it won't be cheap.
  • robsoorobsoo Member Posts: 7
    Cindyrou:

    I currently own a Volvo 1998 S70 GLT with about 109,000 miles. While the Volvo is a great car, the maintenance however, does not come cheap at all. Even with regular maintenance (which I have performed timely over the years), it does have its shares of unexpected problems now and then.

    While these repairs are not major in any case, it still will set you back a few hundred dollars each time.

    Unless you know a thing or two about fixing cars, I would suggest to get another car with lower mileage to avoid any future headaches.

    While I am not an advocate of any cars, a second hand Camry or Accord may provide a bit more longevity.

    Good Luck
  • tra708tra708 Member Posts: 3
    hi,
    just recently got an s70 with 86,000k miles.
    love it!
    my coolant warning light went on today,
    checked manual, then opened hood and
    checked coolant level. looked okay..
    half way between min and max.
    is it ok to drive home?
    i am at my mom's and need to drive 3 hrs home!!
    need advice soon!
    much thanks, ahead of time.
    tracy
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    as long as the coolant level is ok, you are probably safe. just keep a close eye on the temperature gauge. if it starts to rise, pull over! you don't want to overheat it.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • tra708tra708 Member Posts: 3
    I got into my S70 yesterday, and the key won't turn in the ignition. It won't budge! The steering wheel is not locked, and the shift over-ride button is not stuck. So, the car is stranded and i am about to get it towed. any ideas?? needless to say, i am really bummed. thanks for any help....still in love with my car, tho.
    tracy
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    well, if not the steering wheel lock causing a problem, then its a worn key or worn ignition cylinder.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • tra708tra708 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks! I got it started by slamming my foot down on the brake as hard as i could, and at the same time, turning the key. Still don't know the cause of the problem, though. thanks for the input. tl
  • pepe7pepe7 Member Posts: 2
    The coolant on my S70 was a little low, and I accidentally put too much (over the max line). Is there any easy way to drain just enough coolant without having to flush? Any tips and advice is appreciated.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Wish I could remember exactly how it was on my S70, but you've got a few choices with any car. You can either loosen up a hose, pull it away, and let some come out before putting it back on (suggest small hose off overflow tank to avoid letting too much out). You can loosen the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and let some out that way. OR you can use a turkey baster and suck it out of the overflow tank. If its not that much, it wouldn't take long to do it this way and might be the most controllable method.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • asikaasika Member Posts: 8
    I personally will not worry about it; it will run off when it becomes too hot.
  • pepe7pepe7 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks guys for all tips. I like the turkey baster method! Would having too much coolant be a reason for the radiator indicator to turn on?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    I don't believe so. As the other poster said, it should just go out the overflow hose.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • samuraikoteisamuraikotei Member Posts: 1
    quote"This is similar to 628 but in a 98 S70 GLT. The engine will run for about 10 seconds and quit. It does not seem to run the fuel pump, however I can remove its fuse and reinsert it and it will pressurize the line so it will run again for another 10 seconds and quit. Any ideas?"

    I have a 2000 volvo s70 and I have the same problem. I thought it could be a short in the fuel pump wiring(green and red). I am looking all over the internet for some to answer our problem. So far no luck. Please tell me if you have found the problem. Thanks.
  • ptrosptros Member Posts: 1
    I fixed my daughters s70 by replacing the coolant temprature sensor. It was giving the ecm a false reading. I hooked a scanner on the car and it was reading 300 degrees f. most of the time it would not start first time in the a.m. some times after sitting for a while. the part came from napa and cost around forty dollars.
  • tim15tim15 Member Posts: 10
    I have the ABS and Trac COntrol lights on intermittingly on my S70. The car has 117K I also hear an occasional clicking noise from the brakes pedel, as if the ABS is activating, even though I am not braking. When this happens, the ABS and traction lites come on. I was going to order the new ABS module, but then thought it could be a wheel sensor. ANy similar problems or tips? DOn't want to buy a module unless absolutely needed. Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Its 90% likely the module if you have never replaced it. However, before ordering a new very expensive unit, search this forum and you will find the contact info of someone who will repair it for much much less.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • stangdogstangdog Member Posts: 1
    OK, my problem is when i put the key in the ignition, the key will just spin around and not engage the ignition, or it will engage and not start, after a few prayers, a few jingles, it will eventually start, it might take a few seconds, a few minutes, or a few hours, it all depends, anyone have an idea what this might be caused by?
    Thank you

    Chris
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Basically, you need a new ignition.
  • jmcaronjmcaron Member Posts: 1
    Chris.. Have you checked or replaced the antenna ring? It's the ring around the ignition - where the key is inserted. My probem was similar - started normally, but occasionally and with increased frequency it would not. Replaced the antenna ring - I believe dealer only - and it ran fine. However, 18 months later it's begin to do it again.
  • ecirtapecirtap Member Posts: 1
    Hello..we have a 1998 S70 sedan. It has been a terrific car for us, and recently the battery had to be replaced. When we took it in the odometer read 101,000 miles. When we picked it up, it read 12,000 miles. The mechanic had no idea why it happened,,,and many calls to Volvo have resulted in frustration, not information. Does anyone have any idea what may have happened here?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    wow! i mean, wow! I have never ever heard of this happening. Where did you take the car? Something is seriously wrong here (obviously). The ONLY thing I can think of is that your computer was swapped out. Absurd? Yes. Impossible? No. I mean, my theory at this point? The service station did something horribly wrong and fried the CPU, then proceeded to replace it without your knowledge. I dunno. I'm just throwing out a wild idea here.

    Now, you ARE talking about the actual odometer and not the trip meter, correct??

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Who replaced the battery?

    In theory, the odo can be changed, but it would take access to a VADIS or VIDA setup to do it.
    in other words, it would have to be a deliberate act.
  • liquid_nickliquid_nick Member Posts: 3
    I found an 1999 White S70 STD with 71000 miles. Pretty much exactly what I am looking. The options above the standard are leather seats, dual power seats, alloy wheels, automatic and power moon roof. The car was well taken care of mechanically they have the complete service records from the Volvo dealership and an independent they use, they are the 2nd owners. but have the service records from the 1st owner.

    However, the leather on seats is cracking and would need to be reupholstered to get into tip top shape. Also, there are a few stains on the backseat carpet because they have children. Besides those items the car is good shape.

    For the price they are asking 7,400 and the car is at this place called the Buggy Bank, they are a facilitator to connect buyers with sellers by hosting their cars at a lot, but you do all negotiating with the private seller. According to edmunds the car is worth ~6,650 in good condition and about ~5,500 in fair condition, if buying from a private seller, add a thousand if from a dealer. So, I'd like to make an offer and a fair that is not too high or low and would like an opinion or two.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    I think all the numbers are a bit high for a base model, frankly. $5k seems like all the money, but hopefully volvomax will chime in with a more accurate appraisal.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    S70's have begun going up in value.
    At least in private party transactions.
    the availability of decent cars is very low.
    Saw the same thing happen w/ the 240 about 10 yrs ago.

    If it were my car,and it was in good mechanical shape w/ all the records, I'd be holding out for $6000 at least.
    I probably would have re-covered the seats though. That isn't a lot of money.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    S70's have begun going up in value.
    Oh, of course. AFTER I sell mine. ;b

    not alot to reupholster leather? hmmm... dont' know about that. I just did the seat bottoms in my alfa last year and it cost me $450. And that was supposedly a special business-to-business secret handshake deal.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    I don't know where you are located Nick, but I just did a quick search in my area and found a dealer in north jersey who has a '99 S70 base with all the key options with 75k miles for $6190; a '99 GLT with 68k miles for $7290; and an '00 SE w/84k miles for $6690. And those are just the asking prices, of course. I don't believe its specifically a volvo dealer, but they seem to carry 90% volvos. I keep seeing nice low mile V70s pop up in their inventory that I'm tempted to go check out for my wife.

    Also found a white '98 base model with leather and 86k miles and perfect seats at another dealer for $3995.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jaymokajaymoka Member Posts: 7
    Hello folks,

    I recently took my car to the mechanic to fix the rack-n-pinion (apologize for the spelling). After he replaced it, all hell broke loose. First, the car started making a sound when moving, second I got a check engine light with a code that, according to the mechanic, was due to a gas leak.

    So, I took it back to the same mechanic, and he told me that fixed the gas leak, but the noise was coming from the turbo. By the time I got home, the check engine light was back on. So, of course, I took it back. This time the code was diiferent (I believe now it was 1701). The mechanic claimed it was a gas leak from another place, and to fix it, it cost $150. I went for it.

    Again, by the time I got home, the check engine light was back on, but this time with the same 1701 code. I took it back, and the mechanic claimed that this is caused by the leak in the turbo. And offered to clean it up for free.

    When I went back to pick up the car a couple of days later, he told me the mass air flow control unit was damaged and needed to be replaced and that the car was not idling correctly. Sure enough, when I started the car on the mechanic's lot, it kept revving up and down like crazy (when sitting at idle). This was never there before. When I dropped the car off the last time, the engine was humming like a bird. My question is, could it be possible that this is a mere coincidence, or is possible that he screwed something up trying to find the origin of the code?

    Thank you guys for any help that you can offer

    Jay
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    not alot to reupholster leather? hmmm... dont' know about that. I just did the seat bottoms in my alfa last year and it cost me $450. And that was supposedly a special business-to-business secret handshake deal.

    an Alfa huh?
    Well, you paid the Italian car POS special markup :P
  • louiecuslouiecus Member Posts: 1
    my wife has a 1998 volvo s70 sedan, auto, non-turbo. while driving, the charging system warning lite came on, and after continuing to drive, slowly but surely, the rest of the dashboard warning lights started to come on one at a time-srs, abs, etc(this is how my wife described it to me), until the dash looked like a Christmas tree, and the car finally petered out just as she pulled into a parking spot.

    any thoughts on what may have caused this? I think it may be the alternator, and hence the battery is probably shot too now. if I jump it, do you think it will make it to the shop?

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    what was wrong with the steering?

    well, yeah, if everything was fine until a mechanic touched the car, I'd certainly be looking to them as the cause of the problem.

    what year is your S70?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    It sounds strange ... but I guess the alternator could be the problem. If you have a battery charger at home, I would use that rather than jumping it. Jumping it is never a good thing. Damage to the computer can occur. PLUS, if it is the alternator, the car will not run for long, if at all, just off a jump. If you can fully charge the battery, then start it and put a meter on it to see where you are at. If you don't have a charger at home, and you don't want to have the car towed somewhere, then remove the battery and take it to a shop to have it tested and charged.

    It COULD be the battery itself. I've never had a car that was as sensitive to the battery's condition as my S70. If the battery was not in very good working order, the car would not operate (as opposed to most cars wherea dying battery may still allow you to start the car and run off the alternator).

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    ya know, somehow I knew you'd say that. :b

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Sounds like the alternator to me.
    Battery not charging,so the voltage level keeps dropping,this affects different systems on the car until it stops running altogether.
  • liquid_nickliquid_nick Member Posts: 3
    I got to look at it today and it is a GLT as oppose to the STD, so that does increase the price a bit. The leather is worn, no one is going to think twice about sitting on it, but it's not in good condition. Besides the tires needing to be replaced, nothing else seems wrong with it from my inspection and they have all the service records and kept it in good shape. The lowest I got them down to was 6500, so barring something being wrong with it when I bring it to the dealer to get looked at, what are your thoughts?

    qbrozen- I live near modesto, ca and have been traveling to the San Francisco Bay area to look at cars and while I have found some cars at that price, they are all at those dealers that buy them at auction, clean them up nice, but under the hood they are a mess. They have all needed about 2-3k in repairs and maintenance.
  • liquid_nickliquid_nick Member Posts: 3
    Should I even bother with Volvo's though? I just graduated college and need something that will be reliable and fairly care free as I am either going to get this or a preowned certified cobalt. I would be making payments on the cobalt, but probably in 160-170 range.
  • jaymokajaymoka Member Posts: 7
    I've got a 1999 S70 GLT. Originally the problem was a broken Rack-n-pinion. I went to the dealer yesterday to get a diagnostic on the sound the car was still making, and it turned out the mechanic I've been dealing with did not install the rack-n-pinion correctly.

    By the way, I picked up a "mass air flow control unit" from a junk yard last night and installed it on the car. It stopped revving up and down, and it's back to normal. But I'm not sure I can prove the mechanic did it. All I know is that neither the check engine code nor the revving up and down was there before he touched it!

    This was the first time I dealt with this mechanic, and I only went to him cause he's supposed to be a "foreign car expert". Any advice on how to deal with him? What to ask him? I'm thinking small claims court. But I'm wondering if there's an easier way.

    Jay
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    my first question is, how did the rack get broken? And what was the car doing when you brought it to him in the first place?

    2nd, who told you it was installed incorrectly? did this 2nd mechanic find anything else wrong?

    i would get a statement from this mechanic saying it was installed incorrectly and show this to mechanic 1. if he doesn't make good on this problem, then you may need to step it up a notch. Forget the MAF problem. It is a common failure on the '99s, so there is no way to know if anything he did caused that particular problem.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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